The Paddler Autumn/Fall issue 2017

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ThePADDLER 120 Loch Morar Loch Morar is located in Lochaber on the western side of Scotland in the highlands and offers a mix of classic canoe paddling with islands, an 11.7 mile length and a portage route that is challenging to say the least. There are beautiful little islands offering shelter and wild camping at the western end of the loch. The portage at Tarbet connects your journey to out onto the sea loch Nevis and is just over 1km. Our last visit we used the islands as shelter and lee paddling to escape the huge gusts and prevailing gales. Once on Loch Nevis an easterly route will take you through narrows at Kyleknoysdart to sandy beaches 8km away with a small bothy at Sourlies. Heading west means increasing open water down towards Inverie. Further round the coast is Mallaig a beautiful coastal town popular with sailors as well as port for the Cal Mac (Caledonian Macbrayne) Ferries. Mallaig is a great place to ‘kick back’ and enjoy the local culture. I have enjoyed Hogmanay with local folk bands in Mallaig as well as stunning paddling. Loch Shiel Loch Shiel has been made a popular tourist attraction by virtue of the viaduct, featuring in a certain Harry Potter book and film series, as well as the Glenfinnan Jacobite monument. The young prince, ‘Bonny Prince Charlie’ raised his standard on the shore in 1745. The history of trade, exploration and voyages dates significantly further back than that, with one of the most popular wilderness canoe trips in Scotland being the Shiel Circuit. There are no roads for almost 33kms of the loch’s length and plenty of wildlife with otters, eagles and pine martins in residence. Although parts of the river system may be navigable in low waters this may involve longer portages that you envisage. This loch has also featured as inspiration for much of the work of artist Rob Campbell (my DW and Yukon River Quest team mate) for his sculpture and paintings (www.robhoustoncampbell.com). Loch Moidart to the north on the return leg of the circuit, has wild camp sites on islands and other places to call home. Our last visit coincided with heavy weather with a force 6 gusting 7 blowing down the loch. We battled out in ‘teeth chattering’ conditions, literally planting the paddle to hold station before eventually conceding to the fierce elements and flying back to the start point. Our retreat complete we ventured up the small river feeding the loch and practiced our poling and subbing in the flows (poling and snubbing are traditional canoe skills using a pole to move up and downstream in rapids, swifts and moving water). Loch Linnhe Loch Linnhe is a classic sea loch stretching up from the sea town of Oban and the Firth of Lorne 32 miles or so up to the Highland hub of Fort William. Paddling from Kinlochleven through the narrows at Ballachulish can be a mind boggling experience on the ebb tide as eddies and swirling waters aim to spin you around. The bridge at Ballachulish with the Pap of Glencoe and the Aonach Eagach Ridge makes a picturesque back drop. The Corran Ferry requires a bit of cat and mouse as you head up towards the larger sea lock at Corpach (north of Fort William) signalling the start of the Caledonian Canal. I have played Gran Mother’s footsteps with local seals around this stretch of water on many occasions. Remember if you are canoeing on a sea loch make sure the conditions suit the craft you are in. The western end can be extremely challenging and is open to the force of swells from the Irish Sea and Atlantic. I have canoed and kayaked on this beautiful loch and on its day it offers great paddling with incredible mountains flanking the loch. General paddling rules apply With all paddling in the Highlands be respectful of other users and local people. If you are using access points and car parks from local pubs, hotels and sites then make sure you ‘pay forward’ their kindness by spending some money. Equally leave no trace, minimize your impact and don’t block access ways. It is worth remembering that inland and sea lochs can behave like small seas, so make sure you paddle within your experience for the conditions. Longer lochs have significant ‘fetch’ and journeying far from shore can be dangerous. Make sure you have checked the weather forecast and have the right clothing and equipment for the day and season. The old adage, “There is no such thing as cold weather just the wrong clothing” applies. Hopefully you have begun to get a flavour of the world-class paddling on offer in Scotland. See you on the water. Rich
Loch Morar https://goo.gl/maps/WMSRGz4XFtr Loch Shiel https://goo.gl/maps/sQu4ba5YqdJ2 Poling on the river feeding Loch Shiel Loch Linnhe https://goo.gl/maps/G6HF9k9uYoq Exploring Loch Morar BEST OF SCOTLAND CANOE TRIP The next ‘Best of Scotland’ trips are running in spring and autumn 2018 for small groups looking to develop their adventurous side. Prices start at £599 (early bird offer) for the week including accommodation, equipment, food and coaching. Visit www.canoetrail.co.uk or contact the team @ info@canoetrail.co.uk or 01234 825499 ThePADDLER 121
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Issue 38 Autumn/Fall 2017 004 North
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ThePADDLER 5 Darren Bason
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ssociation of Northern Ireland with
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Junior HP Classes. She was also a s
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Tamsin Green Tim Thomas Jack Davies
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ThePADDLER 14 THE RIDE Story and Ph
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ThePADDLER 16 I invited myself. A f
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ThePADDLER 18 however, rumour has i
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ThePADDLER 20 Testing, Kitvision Im
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ThePADDLER 40 Day three was a slog.
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ThePADDLER 42 The morning shadow hi
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ThePADDLER 48 S U R F I N G T O BIG
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ThePADDLER 50 We were on the water
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ThePADDLER muscles. Catch, pressure
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ThePADDLER 54 I keep an eye on Pris
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ThePADDLER 56 I drive home 20 minut
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ThePADDLER 58 K A Y A K I N G T H E
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ThePADDLER 62 removed. Prajapati ha
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ThePADDLER 64 for a hostile port re
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ThePADDLER 66 I’ve just dipped my
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Page 107 and 108: Story: Richard Harpham Photos: Ashl
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The Paddler Autumn/Fall issue 2017

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