Travel Explorer Magazine Issue 4

WESTERN CANADA
Words: David Wickers
Photos: Oliver
Whether your passion is for seafood or scenery, cultural
heritage or vibrant cities, whales or bears, outdoor
activities or must-see events, Canada offers a whole
heap of pleasures. But since the country is so vast (it’s
second in size only to Russia), first time visitors, like
football supporters, have to choose one side or the other.
Canada’s ‘west end’, encompassing the neighbouring
provinces of British Columbia and Alberta, showcases
an irresistible combination of experiences. On the one
holiday you’ll combine the soaring peaks of the Rocky
Mountains with a dramatic coastline, deeply penetrated
by fjords and studded with islands. You’ll see magnificent
lakes and vast forests, wildlife including whales and both
brown and grizzly bears, and spend time in the provincial
capital Victoria and the lively, liveable waterfront city of
Vancouver.
Linked by nonstop flights to the UK, Vancouver, which
stands with its feet in the Pacific and its head in the
mountains, has a stock of attractions. Among the
highlights are the 1000 acre Stanley Park, Granville
Island with its artisan studios and eclectic market,
the funky Yaletown warehouse district and the second
largest Chinatown in the west. It is also the perfect
gateway for exploring.
Take the ferry (or fly by floatplane) across to Victoria on
Vancouver Island, a charming city with a very British
feel. Be sure to visit the Butchart Gardens, a 130 acre
country estate. Victoria is also a great place for taking a
whale watching excursion.
You could then drive across the island to Tofino on the
western seaboard, where the beaches are pounded by
wild Pacific rollers, or return to Vancouver and hop on
one of the many floatplanes which link the city with
some of the remote but luxurious lodges such as Sonora
or Knight Inlet on the island-studded north Pacific shore
where bears – brown and grizzly – roam. Alternatively
you could drive the Sunshine Coast, a 100 mile road that
sits between the mountain and maritime scenery of the
fjord coastline (accessible by ferry from Vancouver).
Whistler, best known as Canada’s top ski resort, is a hive
of activities in summer. It can be reached by floatplane,
by the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer railway (a two day
journey), or the ‘Sea to Sky’ highway.
As well as a hub for seaplane services, Vancouver is a
starting point for some of the world’s most scenic and
romantic rail journeys. Our most popular rail adventure
is aboard the Rocky Mountaineer to either Jasper or
Banff, a two day journey with an overnight stop in
Kamloops. In Banff be sure to take the Gondola to the
top of Sulphur Mountain and have a soak in the Cave and
Basin Hot Springs.
The big carriage windows on board the Rocky
Mountaineer, and, in Gold Leaf class, the glass-domed
observation car frame a gently moving canvas of some of
the most stunning mountain-scapes on the planet. You
could also ride the Skeena, a 1600 km journey linking
Jasper in the heart of the Rockies with the Pacific coast
at Prince Rupert through a remarkably varied terrain of
wilderness, lakes, rivers, farmlands and forests.
Jasper and Banff are linked by a remarkable stretch of
scenic highway, the Icefields Parkway, which parallels
the Rockies’ highest, most rugged, saw toothed peaks
and glaciers, following a valley studded with gorgeous
emerald lakes. En route you’ll pass Lake Louise where
a sheer amphitheatre of mountains cradles a massive
glacier, the entire scene perfectly mirrored in the still,
pale waters of the lake.
From Banff you might choose to drive back to Vancouver
via the Okanagan Valley, a rich agricultural area best
known for its wineries (it’s often referred to as the ‘Napa
of the North’), or continue to Calgary for your homeward
flight.
DAVID’S ROCKY MOUNTAINEER MEMORIES
To the shrill toot of the whistle, the refrain of a Scottish
bagpiper and cries of ‘All Aboard’, we took our seats on
what is without doubt one of the world’s most scenic rail
journeys.
Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer is more than a train ride.
The experience is like watching one long, living ‘Come
to Canada’ promotional poster. Aside from our front
row, super comfy reclining chairs in Gold Leaf class,
there is also an open air observation deck in between the
carriages where we could breathe in the alpine beauty as
well as see it.
The food, with choices for breakfast and lunch, and
drinks (all included in the fare) is superb, served in the
restaurant on the lower deck of our carriage.
The on board crew turn the stunningly scenic journey
into an incredible story too with their historic tales of the
Gold Rush to the adventures of the Hudson Bay traders.
The driver even slowed down the train for his so-called
‘Kodak Moments’ (how long before that gets changed to
‘I Pad images’ we wondered).
Memorable sights are many. We loved seeing the passing
freight trains with 100 or more carriages snaking along
the contours, the massive osprey nests built on top of
the telegraph poles, flocks of wild Big Horn sheep,
an occasional logging community and the sight of
the summit of Mount Robson, the highest point in the
Canadian Rockies.
RB Collection Reader Offer
Mention this issue when you book your holiday to
include a stay in Vancouver and receive a buy one get one
free Vancouver City Tour, saving £59. Applicable to new
bookings made before 31/3/18.
37 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER
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