Mzanzitravel Magazine - Issue 9

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Discover Africa FLAMINGOS, LICHEN FIELDS & FISHERMAN’S SHACKS We leave Swakopmund on the coastal road passing through the Namib-Naukluft National Park going north. The road, the C34 coastal highway is fairly wide and smooth, but not tarred – its surface is compacted salt which gives the feel of a tarred road, but can be slippery when wet. Just outside Swakopmund the world suddenly comes alive on the seaside, with thousands upon thousands of pink flamingos jostling for space in the salt pans that cover the strip between the road and the sea. A short distance further the landscape again changes to patches of orange, brown, red and grey as huge, protected lichen fields come into view on the inland side of the road. Lichens are formed through a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungi. The fungus portion of a plant provides the body, while the algae carries out the photosynthesis that provides food and energy, with the lichens absorbing moisture from both humid air and the desert fog. The Namib Desert hosts 120 lichen species, most of them rare. A significant number of them occur only here. They provide food for a variety of invertebrates and even the antelope at times. Some of these lichen fields are estimated to be hundreds or even thousands of years old, but they die if they are disturbed and are therefore protected. We drive on and next a motley collection of beach shacks and bungalows, each with its own distinct blue water tank, comes into view. This is Wlotzkasbaken, which like the lichen fields, lies within the Dorob National Park. Wlodzkas, the shorter name popularly used for it, had its origin in a small number of shacks built by avid anglers at this excellent fishing spot in the 1930s. Over the years a number more shacks and later more sturdy bungalows were added as holiday homes. For most of the year very few people live here permanently and it remains largely a small holiday and fisherman’s resort. SHIPWRECKS AND HENTIES BAY We continue along the road towards Henties Bay. The Namibian coast is littered with ship wrecks, especially further north along the uninhabitable Skeleton Coast. The coast has a reputation for hoarding its skeletons – human, animal and ships. Most of the Namibian coastline can be pretty treacherous, especially further north, due to a combination of strong crosscurrents, heavy swells, gale force winds and dense fogs. Adding to the danger are the many hidden rocky reefs, sand banks and sand dunes that stretch into the sea underwater. The stretch of coast between Swakopmund and Cape Cross also has its fair share of shipwrecks, and on our way we pass the wreck of the Zeila, clearly visible in the breakers. The Zeila was a large fishing trawler which ran aground near a popular fishing spot, Die Walle, some 14km south of Henties Bay in 2008. Some 30km north of Henties Bay lies the wrekck of the French cable laying vessel Chamarel, which caught fire in 2912 and ran aground off the popular stopover, the Fisherman’s Inn. Seagulls and cormorants are the only inhabitants of these ships today, while seals dive around their rusted and shattered hulls looking for food. Henties Bay lies just south of the mouth of another dry river, the Omaruru River. Henties Bay too had its origins in what was a collection of fisherman’s shacks and informal holiday houses. Gradually attracting more and more people who camped here every December summer holiday, the number of shacks and bungalows steadily increased. Today it has many permanent homes and a bustling little commercial centre. A well-known and much photographed feature of the town is a dead old tree with a hangman’s noose affixed to it. Because the early holiday makers that camped here neglected to clean up after themselves when they left, two of the earliest permanent residents in the town, Frank Atkinson and Willie Cilliers, who respectively settled here in 1969 and 1971, put up the hangman’s noose as a warning to visitors to keep the settlement clean and tidy. The gallows remain to this day, although no-one has ever swung from it. One of the beautiful spots along this stretch of the coast is Solitude Beach, also known as Farilhao Bay, situated just south of Henties Bay. From here one can follow the Jakkalsputz Walking Trail that offers superb views of the coast. The town also hosts the annual ‘Hentiesfees’. Before leaving the town, be sure to pop into the Solitude beach Bar and Restaurant for some excellent seafood and other refreshments to prepare for the road ahead. Flamingos, Swakopmund salt pans
Discover Africa SPITZKOPPE AND BRANDBERG From Henties Bay a gravel road, the D1918 to Usakos, turns east towards another landmark, the Spitzkoppe, a mountainous region with awesome rock formations, San rock paintings, giant boulders scattered about, huge rock arches, many hidden caves, and picnic and camping sites. The mountain is also sometimes referred to as the Matterhorn of Africa and can be climbed with the right climbing gear. Here the visitor will find great solitude, peace and tranquillity, and will be rewarded with natural sites you won’t find anywhere else. Resuming the northward journey you will cross over the dry Omaruru River bed. The river is ideal for walking and off-road 4X4 driving, although be sure to remain on the much-used, visible tracks. Illegal off-road driving in much of these parts are a serious threat to the environment and the scars left behind by careless drivers can frequently be seen. The river bed also has some nice picnic spots. However, overnight camping in the river bed or anywhere in the Dorob National Park south of the Omdel Dam is not allowed. Just after the river a road branches off to the right to the National West Coast Tourist Recreational Area, the Omaruru Game Park, the Tsiseb Conservancy, the tiny village of Uis and the impressive Brandberg. The name means ‘burning mountain’ and it is the highest mountain in Namibia. It is also home to the famous San rock art painting known as the White Lady. Local guides from the Brandberg Community Project will accompany visitors to the painting and other sites around the mountain. The Brandberg is situated about 158km from Henties Bay and can be reached via the C35 via Uis to Kamanjab. Be advised that in summer the temperature in this area reaches scorching levels, and you will probably want to dive into the hotel in Uis for cover. But electric fans, shade covering, a swimming pool and ice cold beers will probably not cool you off for long. shutterstock: EcoPrint Spitzkoppe in the distance FIELDS OF ROSE QUARTZ AND A DEAD SEA As we continue north towards Cape Cross along the C34 coastal highway, we start noticing piles of rose quartz rocks at regular intervals alongside the road, with a tin and a sign for payments to be left for what you take. This is a way for local inhabitants of the area to earn a living. Except for one or two shacks in the desert landscape, you won’t see them or their houses, but the people are there. Look out for a rusted, barely visible sign on your right where a track leads into the desert. This track will take you to the Dead Sea Swim Hole, some 15km inland. But beware, looking for it is a challenge and you might get hopelessly lost without a local guide. Also fascinating about this area, however, is the rose quartz rock formations found here. The area is strewn with rose quartz, as if some invisible giant hand scattered these pinks stones all over this landscape. Back on the coastal road, shortly before you get to Cape Cross and near a large salt pan, Lagunenberg lies on the eastward side of the road. The rocks of this hill Fields of rose quartz - Stef Terblanche MZANZITRAVEL| www.mzanzitravel.co.za|ISSUE 9 | 87
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Mzanzitravel Apr 2018 Apr 2018 - Is
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C O NTENTS 28 20 38 09 EDITOR’S N
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Autumn/Winter 2018 The year is cert
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Hop On - Hop Off South Africa The B
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Experience the best entertainment d
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Cathay Pacific flies non-stop to Ca
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News & Information Africa’s large
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Extraordinary presents a distinctiv
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Hiking South Africa is blessed with
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Diepwalle overnight hut, Outeniqua
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Hiking beauty of the Cape Peninsula
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Telephone: +27 (0) 82 318 1894 West
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Discover Karoo Highlands Route …
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Hiking Smut’s beloved house at Do
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Page 43 and 44: BIG CAT EXPERIENCE LIMPOPO Email: i
Page 45 and 46: Discover Mzanzi In the south-wester
Page 48 and 49: Responsible Tourism Minimum disrupt
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Page 56 and 57: By Stef Terblanche Watch mesmerized
Page 58 and 59: Explore Africa Masai warrior on the
Page 60 and 61: Explore Africa Stone Town, Zanzibar
Page 63 and 64: ACCOMMODATION - TARIFFS PER PERSON
Page 65 and 66: FOOD & WINE
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Page 71 and 72: Local Travel South Africa’s iconi
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Page 76 and 77: Old ruin in Baviaanskloof Wildernes
Page 78 and 79: FOOD & WINE This is ostrich country
Page 80 and 81: Staff Writer Francois Loubser / shu
Page 82 and 83: Country Travel In the Western Cape
Page 84 and 85: Country Travel with a country-style
Page 86 and 87: Discover Africa By Stef Terblanche
Page 90 and 91: Discover Africa are a strange black
Page 93 and 94: Getaways great winter breaks Winter
Page 95 and 96: Luxury Accommodation • Five Star
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Mzanzitravel Magazine - Issue 9

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