Mzanzitravel Magazine - Issue 9

Discover Africa
are a strange black colour, all covered by green, orange, grey and black crustose
lichens that present an awesome sight. The hill traps much of the morning fog in
this area, sustaining the lichens, many small creatures, as well as other plants like
the dollar bush and bushman’s candle that are also found further south in the dune
areas around Swakopmund.
CAPE CROSS AND ITS HUGE SEAL COLONY
Finally we reach the sign that points us westward to the sea and Cape Cross. After
obtaining our permits from the National Parks office, we proceed down the road to
a small cement building from where a wooden boardwalk runs parallel to the sea.
The entire area is covered by a barking, snorting, wriggling, milling, rushing mass
of thousands upon thousands of dark brown and black Cape fur seals, the biggest
of the nine fur seal species in the world that breeds only on the west coast of
southern Africa. We arrive here in December, the pupping season, with thousands
of pups around. The very large bulls each fiercely protect their harem of several
cows and their pups. Pups that stray off are unceremoniously pick up by the scruff
of the neck and brought back to the group.
Open air restaurant by the sea, Henties Bay - Image: Stef Terblanche
Fights frequently erupt between bulls and in the melee pups are often squashed to
death, resulting in hundreds of dead pups lying around. Be warned: when getting
out of your car you will be overwhelmed by the stench, but one quickly gets used
to it. The area and the 200,000 to 250,000 seals can be comfortably viewed from
the boardwalk, although the occasional adult seal will lie on it, blocking your way,
but they are usually not aggressive if you don’t come too close. Due to dwindling
fish resources, and with adult seals eating almost 10% of their own bodyweight in
fish each day, the seal population is controlled by government-regulated culling.
Swakopmund from the air - Karl Andre Terblanche
Nearby stands a replica of the original cross planted here by the Portuguese
navigator and explorer Diogo Cão in 1486, giving the bay and the peninsula its
name. He had been sent by King João II to search for a sea route to India and
the Spice Islands, when he landed here on his second journey and planted the
cross. Our own journey ends here and we bid farewell to the cross and the seal
colony. From here the road continues north to Torra Bay, Terrace Bay, Mowe Bay
and the heart of the formidable Skeleton Coast. But that is another adventure for
another day.
Useful Contact Info
SWAKOPMUND TOURISM INFORMATION
Tel: +264 (0)81 155 4000; website & email www.swakopinfo.com.
HENTIES BAY TOURISM CENTRE
Tel: +264 (0) 64 501 143; email Priscilla.Noarises@hbaymun.com.na.
NAMIBIA TOURISM BOARD
Tel: +264 (0)61 290 6000; email: info@namibiatourism.com.na.
NAMIBIA WILDLIFE RESORTS (NATIONAL PARKS)
Tel: +264 (0)61 285 7200; website & email www.nwr.com.na.
Ghostly ruins, Swakop River - Stef Terblanche
88 |ISSUE 9|www.mzanzitravel.co.za | MZANZITRAVEL
Where desert and sea meet