JTCS Volume 1 Issue 1

i

Journal of Textile and Clothing Science 

Volume 1, Issue 1 

January-March 2018 

Published By 

Textile Academic Publishing & Services 

https://www.jtcsonline.com


Editorial Board 

Prof. (Dr.) Dibyendu Bikash 

Datta 

Prof. (Dr.) Mamatha G. Hegde Prof. (Dr.) Jitendra R. 

Ajmeri 

Associate Professor 

National Institute of Fashion 

Technology, Plot-3B, Block- 

LA, Near 16 No. Water Tank, 

Sector III, Salt Lake City, 

Kolkata, West Bengal 700098, 

India. 

Associate Professor and Head 

Department of Fashion Design 

Faculty of Art and Design 

Ramaiah University of Applied 

Sciences Peenya, Bangalore. 

Associate Professor & Head 

Textile Technology 

Department, Convener: 

Entrepreneur Development 

Cell., Sarvajanik College of 

Engineering & Technology, 

Surat. 

dibyendu.datta@nift.ac.in mamathahegde.hqc@msruas.ac.in jajmeri@hotmail.com 

(+91)8617703370 (+91)9980454096, (+91)8045366666 (+91)9898374017 

Dr. Ashok Athalye Dr. T. Senthilkumar Prof. (Dr.) A. K. Patra 

General Manager 

Technical Service-Colors 

Business, Atul Ltd, Atul 

House,Plot No. A-68, Road 

No. 21, Wagle Industrial 

Estate,Thane 400 604, 

Maharashtra, India. 

Scientist (Textile Manufacture) 

ICAR, CIRCOT, 5, Adenwala Rd, 

Grant Road West, Matunga, 

Mumbai, Maharashtra 400019, 

India. 

Professor 

Uttar Pradesh Textile 

Technology Institute 

(UPTTI) formerly 

GCTI,Souterganj, Kanpur - 

208001., Uttar Pradesh, 

India. 

ashok_athalye@atul.co.in senthilkumar.T@icar.gov.in arunkpatra@rediffmail.com 

(+91)9819842623 +919702524527 (+91)9992397043 

Published by 

Ashish Hulle 

on behalf of 


335-A, Market Yard, Rui-416116, Tal. - Hatkanangale, 

Dist. - Kolhapur, Maharashtra, India. 

Email: 

editor@jtcsonline.com 

www.JTCS.com 

Contact No.: 

+91-7676-1-7474-1


(JTCS) 

Volume 1, Issue 1, January-March 2018 

Contents 

Sr. No. Article Title Page 

No. 

01. Editorial i 

02. 

03. 

04. 

05. 

06. 

07. 

Textile dyes 

N. N. Mahapatra 

Durability and serviceability characteristics of Fabric having 

different weaves manufactured by 2:1 Setting ratio 

Rashmi Shrivas 

Concept of Lean manufacturing 

Ravi Purohit, Sarika Borikar 

Enzymes in textile processing 

Vaibhav Nagaje 

Effect of Number of Web Layers on Properties of Needle 

Punched Polyester Nonwoven Fabric. 

Sanyukta Bhosale 

Model for Improving Failure Modes and Effect Analysis 

Rushikesh Bhattad, Vaishnavi Baheti 

01-02 

03-13 

15-18 

19-23 

25-30 

31-35


(JTCS) 

Volume 1, Issue 1, January-March 2017 

Scope 

The Journal of Textile and Clothing Science (JTCS) is a peer-reviewed (refereed) journal. Which is aimed 

at providing the platform to exchange information pertaining to all sectors of textile and the clothing 

industry among researchers, textile technocrats, fashion designers and industry experts. 

The journal focuses on scientific, technical, economical, managerial and all other aspects of textile activity 

at theoretical and experimental level. JTCS is aimed at publishing original research articles, review papers, 

short communications, and letters to the editor and book reviews catering the needs of both industry and 

academia. 

Disclaimer 

The data contained in this website is for Educational purposes only. The data is given by Journal of Textile 

and Clothing Science (JTCS) and keeping in mind that we attempt to stay up with the latest and right, we 

make no portrayals or guarantees of any sort, express or inferred, about the culmination, exactness, 

dependability, appropriateness or accessibility regarding the site or the data, items, benefits, or related 

representation contained on the site for any reason. Any dependence you put on such data is thusly 

entirely at your own risk. 

In no event will we be liable for any misfortune or harm including without constraint, indirect or 

consequential misfortune or harm, or any misfortune or harm at all emerging from loss of information or 

benefits emerge out of, or regarding, the utilization of this site. 

Frequency of Publication 

Quarterly 

All type of correspondence and subscription orders should be addressed to: 

Editor 

Editorial office, 



335-A, Market Yard, Rui-416116, 

Tal. - Hatkanangale, Dist. - Kolhapur, Maharashtra, India. 

Email: editor@jtcsonline.com 

www.jtcsonline.com

Editorial 

The launch of Journal of Textile and Clothing Science. 

Dear expert associates, scientists and kindred understudies, I am satisfied to present the 

primary issue of Journal of Textile and Clothing Science. Its development is a result of the 

predictable support of high-performing authors, a supportive, devoted & expert reviewers, 

numerous lively and scrupulous editorial board and aggregate contribution from the editorial 

board individuals. Different researchers who are dynamic in the above field have been enrolled 

for giving the essential driving force to the new journal. We are very confident and might be 

appreciative to the administration that these prominent researchers should give to the 

development of JTCS. I verify that the famous researchers and academicians from both the 

business and scholastic establishments everywhere throughout the world will be advanced by 

sharing their research encounters through JTCS. 

Thanks, 

Managing Editor 


www.jtcsonline.com 

i


Available online at http://www.jtcsonline.com 

BOOK PROMOTION 

TEXTILE DYES 

N. N. Mahapatra 

President, Business Development, Colorant Ltd, Ahmadabad. 

A B O U T T H E 

B O O K 

Textile Dyes has its each chapter simplified into the most 

important training of dyes. The author has dealt with the 

records, manufacturing, homes, identity, stripping, trying 

out and alertness of dyes. The book is written in a very easy 

language and in a lucid way. The e-book can be useful to the 

fabric students, studies students, supervisors working in the 

dyes and textile industries. When you consider that last 

years, the charges of H Acid changed into so excessive that 

the fees of Reactive Dyes went skyrocketing. All and sundry 

inside the enterprise turned into concerned for H Acid. At 

that time, all people got here to realize about H Acid and the 

way essential it become for the dyes enterprise as uncooked 

material or dye intermediate. However, they did now not 

understand the function of H Acid in manufacturing of 

reactive dyes. This book deals about the producing method. 

1. Preface 

Amid our school days, we used to peruse a 

book on "Science of Dyes," composed by Prof Dr. 

Venkatraman. That was into numerous volumes 

and enormous in measure. It was a Bible for 

understudies contemplating Dyestuff Chemistry. 

In any case, the understudies thought that it was 

extremely hard to get it. At that point, Dr. Shenai 

composed minimal disentangled books on colors 

and application. We read those books in our 

school time. 

By the by, every one of these books turned 

out to be exceptionally scholastic. When we 

entered the textile business, the situation was 

distinctive. The practices embraced in colors units 

and textile organizations were altogether 

different. 

Until the point that then no one from the 

business composed any book on colors and 

textiles. In this way, I have put my 30-year shop 

floor encounter into the book, which I have titled 

"Textile Dyes." 

Every part is improved into the real class of 

colors. I have managed the history, fabricating, 

properties, distinguishing proof, stripping, 

testing and utilization of colors. 

It is composed in an extremely basic dialect 

and in a clear way. 

The book will be useful to textile 

understudies, look into understudies, directors 

working in the colors and textile enterprises. 

Throughout the previous 2 years, the costs of 

H Acid were high to the point that the costs of 

Reactive Dyes went soaring. Each individual in 

* Corresponding author. 

E-mail: dr_nanda_nandan@yahoo.com


the business was stressed for H Acid. I found that 

time everyone came to think about H Acid. How 

pivotal crude material or color middle of the road 

it was for the colors business. In any case, they did 

not know the part of H Acid in assembling of 

receptive colors. This book bargains about the 

assembling procedure. 

This will be useful to both the colors business 

and textile industry. 

2. Book Details 

ISBN : 9789385059049 

Pages : 230 

Pub Date : Jan. 2016 

Price : Rs. 2995 

Binding : Hardback 

Chapter 9: Basic dyes 

Chapter 10: Indigo dyes 

Chapter 11: Pigment dyes 

Chapter 12: Disperse dyes 

Chapter 13: Reactive dyes 

4. How to Order? 

Place your order by sending email at: 

marketing@sarabooksindia.com 

info@woodheadpublishingindia.com 

You can also confirm your orders on phone to 

Woodhead Publishing India 

Landline no.: 011-23266107, 011-43612145 

5. Preview This Book 

3. Table of contents 

Chapter 1: Introduction to textile dyes 

Chapter 2: Direct dyes 

Chapter 3: Azoic dyes (Naphthol dyes) 

Chapter 4: Sulphur dyes 

Chapter 5: Vat dyes 

Chapter 6: Chrome dyes (Mordant dyes) 

Chapter 7: Metal-complex dyes 

Chapter 8: Acid dyes 

Scan above QR code to preview this book on 

your cell phone 

©2018 by the authors.This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial- 

NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. 

2 Volume: 01 Issue: 01 | January-March-2018, www.jtcsonline.com



RESEARCH 

DURABILITY AND SERVICEABILITY CHARACTERISTICS OF 

FABRIC HAVING DIFFERENT WEAVES MANUFACTURED BY 2:1 

SETTING RATIO 

Rashmi Shrivas* 

Merchandiser, AYM Syntex Ltd. Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. 

A R T I C L E I N F O 

Article history: 

Received 02 January 2018 

Accepted 31 March 2018 

Keywords: 

2:1 Setting Ratio, Cot Look 

Polyester, Crepe, P/C Blend, 

Tearing Strength 

A B S T R A C T 

This examination was planned to advance the fabric structure for the 

array regarding durability and serviceability properties of fabric woven 

on sword carry less weaving machine by utilizing twofold yarn with 2:1 

setting ratio. Add up to seven unique sorts of weaves viz. plain, 2/2 matt, 

twist rib, 3/1 twill, herringbone twill, glossy silk and crepe were 

concentrated to research the solace and different properties. Cotton yarn 

was utilized as a part of twist for all weaves. Cotton, polyester/cotton 

and bed look polyester yarn were utilized as a part of weft to research 

the impact of weft material on fabric properties. Completing medicines 

like burning, desizing, mercerizing, fading and pitch completing were 

done on fabric. All the fabric examples in dark and in completed state 

were tried in standard climatic conditions for durability and 

serviceability attributes. Subsequent to testing acquired outcomes were 

dissected utilizing Minitab factual programming. It was discovered that 

list of interlacement assumes imperative part in changing fabric 

properties. Completed plain weave fabric with P/C mixed weft will offer 

ideal execution regarding durability and serviceability of array. 

1. Introduction 

Dress is a vital piece of human life. The 

essential part of attire is to frame a layer or layers 

of obstructions that ensure the body against 

unacceptable physical conditions. This insurance 

of body satisfies number of capacities, such as 

keeping up the correct warm condition to the 

body, which is basic for its survival and keeping 

the body from being harmed by scraped spot, 

radiation, wind, power, concoction and 

microbiological substances. These generally 

ordered elements of attire unmistakably 

demonstrate that it assumes a critical part at the 

interface between human body and it's 

encompassing in deciding the subjective 

impression of solace status of a wearer. Today 

clothing fabrics are relied upon to meet all 

prerequisites identified with comfort, medicinal 

services and handle and simple care properties, 

and in addition execution. This has driven 

analysts to grow new materials to furnish 

fashioners with cutting edge devices for their 

particular plan. The present pattern in industry is 

towards enhanced wear comfort. Various reports 

have demonstrated that the greater part of the 


E-mail: rashmi.shrivas89@gmail.com


questions gotten by the technologist from the 

purchasers are connected in somehow, to the 

solace parts of the substrates and thus normal 

intensions are traveling toward assist 

enhancements. Numerous specialists are growing 

new crude material which improve the durability 

and serviceability of fabric. 

Woven textiles are intended to meet the 

necessities of their end utilize. Their quality, 

thickness, extensibility, porosity and durability 

can be differed and rely on upon the weave 

utilized, the string dispersing, that is the quantity 

of strings per centimeter, and the crude materials, 

structure (fiber or staple), direct thickness and 

curve components of the twist and weft yarns. 

From woven fabrics, higher qualities and more 

prominent strength can be gotten than from 

whatever other fabric structure utilizing 

interweaved yarns. Structures can likewise be 

fluctuated to create fabrics with broadly 

extraordinary properties in the twist and weft 

headings. The property of any fabric created relies 

on upon the constituent strands material, yarns 

and the fabric structure and how every one of 

these variables collaborate with each other. A 

definitive point of any clothing fabric is to fulfill 

the wearer and make him feel great. 

Consequently, with regards to above it is worth to 

examine the solace properties of various woven 

fabrics. 

2. Methodology 

This investigation focuses on the various 

comfort, durability and serviceability 

characteristics of different woven structures, 

woven using double yarn with 2:1 setting ratio on 

shuttle less weaving machine. Total 7 different 

types of weaves viz. plain, 2/2 matt, warp rib, 3/1 

twill, herringbone twill, satin and crepe were 

studied to investigate the comfort and other 

properties. Cotton yarn was used in warp for all 

Sr. 

No. 

the effect of weft material on fabric properties. 

Finishing treatments like singeing, desizing, 

mercerizing, bleaching and resin finishing were 

carried out on fabric. All the fabric specimens in 

grey as well as in finished condition were tested 

in standard atmospheric conditions for properties 

like crease recovery, abrasion resistance, and 

tearing strength. After testing obtained results 

were analyzed using Minitab statistical software. 

2.1 Materials 

2.1.1 Warp and Weft yarns 

100% cotton yarn was used as warp for all the 

fabric specimens and the same yarn was used as 

one of the weft. 100% cotton (same yarn that was 

used in warp), 80:20 blended cotton/polyester and 

120 denier cot look polyester multifilament yarn 

were used in weft. Raymond Zambaiti LTD. 

Kagal provided 100% cotton and P/C blended 

yarn and cot look polyester yarn was procured 

from Reliance, Ichalkaranji. All weft yarns were 

selected such that their linear density in nearly 

equal. Characteristics of these yarns were 

tabulated in table 1. 

2.1.2 Chemicals 

Chemicals like Alpha amylase enzyme, 

wetting agent, sequestering agent and deformer 

were used for desizing of fabric. NaOH was used 

for mercerization. H2O2, peroxide stabilizer and 

soda ash for were used for bleaching process and 

Saralink ULF Resin, Acetic Acid, Extra soft Silicon 

softener, Expocil CEL Antisliping agent, Macl2, 

Sarasoft EP Tear improver and JET-B Wetting 

agent were used for finishing treatment of fabric. 

Raymond Zambaiti LTD. Kagal provided all these 

chemicals. 

2.2 Method 

Table 1: Characteristics of yarns 

Yarn Characteristics Cotton Cotton/Polyester Polyester 

1 Count (Ne) 42.14 42.3 44.29 (120D) 

2 Tensile Strength (g/tex) 16.82 24.65 26.37 

3 Elongation (%) 3.45 7.57 14.95 

4 Hairiness Index 3.1 4.54 - 

5 Unevenness (U %) 7.63 10.82 - 

6 Twist Per Inch 27.2 22.3 - 

weaves. Cotton, polyester/cotton and cot look 

polyester yarn were used in weft to investigate 

As mentioned earlier 100% Raymond 

Zambaiti LTD. Kagal provided cotton and P/C 



Table 2: Specification of weaving machine 

blended yarn and cot look polyester yarn was 

procured from Reliance, Ichalkaranji. All these 

yarns were double yarns. After procurement, all 

yarns were tested for different properties such as 

linear density (count), single yarn strength, 

hairiness, unevenness and level of twist. After 

testing, fabric with double yarn in warp and weft 

and ends/picks having 2:1 set ratio was 

manufactured on shuttle less weaving machine 

with different weaves. The gray fabric was 

processed and finished. Testing of gray as well as 

finished fabric was carried to find out different 

fabric properties. 

specimens were manufactured. After 

manufacturing the fabrics, finishing treatment 

was given. In brief, finishing treatment was 

(a) Plain 

(b) 2/2 Matt 

2.2.1 Fabric Manufacturing 

Weaver’s beams were prepared on Suzuki 4 

NAS-M6 warping machine running at 800 mpm. 

After getting weavers beam, fabric samples with 

double yarn in warp and weft having 2:1 set ratio 

i.e. 120 ends and 60 picks were manufactured on 

Sliver Vamatex rapier weaving machine. The 

variable factors were fabric weave and weft yarn. 

Fabrics with seven different type of weaves were 

woven on rapier weaving machine. Specification 

of machine were shown in table 2. 

Specification 

Loom type 

Model 

Details 

Flexible Rapier 

Sliver Vamatex, Itema 

(c) 2/2 Warp Rib 

(e) 2/2 Herringbone 

Twill 

(d) 3/1 Twill 

(f) 4 End Satin 

Let off 

Speed 

Electronic 

400 rpm 

Total ends 8700 

Reed space 

178 cm 

Reed count 24.4 

No. of shaft 8 

Colours feed in weft 1 

No. of heald frames 8 

Weaves include the basic weaves like plain, 

3/1 twill and satin along with their derivatives like 

2/2 matt, warp rib, herringbone twill and crepe. 

Fig. 1 depicts the different fabric structures, which 

were woven. The 100% cotton yarn was used in 

warp for all the fabric specimens. 100% cotton 

yarn, 80:20 blended cotton/polyester yarn and cot 

look polyester multifilament yarn was used as 

weft for all the weaves. Each weave was woven 

using all the three type of weft yarns separately. 

With every possible combination, 21 fabric 

(g) Crepe 

Figure 1: Fabric structure /weaves 

explained in following points (see 3.3.2). All the 

grey as well as finished fabric specimens were 

characterized for different properties. All the 

fabric samples were manufactured in M/S 

Raymond Zambaiti LTD. Kagal. 

2.2.2 Fabric Processing 

After manufacturing the fabric with all 

possible combination. All the manufactured 

fabric samples were subjected to finishing 

treatments like singeing, mercerizing, bleaching 

and resin finishing. Singeing was done by gas 

singing method at 80 m/min with 12 bar flame 

intensity. After singeing, scouring of fabric was 

carried out. Scoured and dried samples were 

Volume: 01 Issue: 01 | January-March-2018, www.jtcsonline.com 5


mercerized using 52 ○ TW NaOH under tension 

and 5-6 hot as well as cold wash was given and 

fabric rolls were kept rotating for to achieve 

uniform mercerization. Peroxide bleaching was 

carried out on mercerized fabric at 85℃ for 4 

hours and resin finish was applied. Resin 

finishing was carried out by Pad-Dry-Cure 

method using stenter at 60 m/min speed. 

Finishing temperature was set to 140℃ while paddry-cure. 

Details of bleaching and finishing were 

reported in table 3. 

2.3 Testing 

2.3.1 Strip Strength 

The raveled strip tensile strength test of 

fabric was carried out according to ASTM D5035- 

11 on Instron- 5565. Following suitable sampling 

technique, warp and weft strips were cut using 

the given template. Strings from both the sides of 

the fabric strip were raveled to get a piece of 

precisely 5 cm of width. At that point raveled strip 

was tried on Instron pliable testing machine with 

20 cm gage length and at 300 mm/min test speed. 

Sr. No. 

01. 

02. 

Table 3: Details of desizing, bleaching and 

finishing 

Bleachin 

g 

Finishin 

g 

Process 

Chemic 

al 

Quantit 

H2O2 3% 

Peroxide stabilizer 3% 

Soda Ash 1% 

Saralink ULF resin 

Acetic acid 

Extra soft silicon 

softener 

Expocil CEL 

antisliping agent 

Macl2 

2.3.2 Tearing Strength 

Sarasoft EP tear 

improver 

JET-B wetting agent 

y 

NA 

1 gpl 

15 gpl 

5 gpl 

7 gpl 

30 gpl 

0.2 

gpl 

Tearing quality of fabric was tried on fallingpendulum 

sort Elmendorf tearing quality 

analyzer as indicated by ASTM D1424-09 

standard test strategy. Constrain required to 

spread a tear beginning from a cut in a woven 

fabric was measured by getting a handle on fabric 

(300×60 mm in measurements) with a mobile clip 

on one side, and by a settled brace on the opposite 

side, with the fabric split focused between the two 

cinches. At that point as the pendulum was 

discharged, the example was torn at the part. The 

tearing power, in grams was perused specifically 

off the graduated scale on the pendulum. 

2.3.3 Abrasion Resistance 

Abrasion resistance of fabric was assessed 

utilizing Martindale's abrasion resistance 

analyzer and tried by ASTM D4966. A round 

fabric example of 38 mm measurement was 

rubbed on zero number ordinary clean paper by 

the multidirectional development of the example 

holder against the grating surface. Every example 

was stacked consistently for appropriate rubbing 

activity. Weight of 9 Kpa was connected to every 

example. 

2.3.4 Crease Recovery 

Wrinkle recuperation of fabric was tried on 

Shirley wrinkle recuperation analyzer as 

indicated by IS6359. In this test, the examples of 

measurement 40 mm × 15 mm product collapsed 

in two, the finishes being held by tweezers. A 

large portion of the examples were collapsed up 

close and personal and half of them consecutive. 

The examples were then set under a 10 N stack for 

5 min. Following 5 minutes' example was kept for 

unwinding (recuperation) in emptied condition 

for 5 minutes and after that quickly exchanged to 

the example holder of the measuring instrument. 

One leg of example was embedded similar to the 

stopping board of the example holder and 

another end was free and permitted to fall under 

its own particular weight. The instrument was 

balanced constantly to keep the free appendage of 

the example vertical. The wrinkle recuperation 

point was measured, by perusing the scale when 

the free appendage was vertical. Higher the 

wrinkle recuperation point higher will be the 

wrinkle recuperation of fabric. 

2.4 Statistical Analysis 

After testing, obtained results were analyzed 

by using MINITAB ® statistical software. Methods 

like ANOVA and General Linear Model were 

used to analyze the data. 

3. Result and Discussion 

3.1 Tensile Properties 



The tensile behavior of woven fabrics is 

known to be influenced by its sett and 

development. In this examination, malleable 

properties of woven fabrics were portrayed by 

fabric breaking burden and prolongation. 

3.1.1 Strip Strength 

Tensile strength has been acknowledged as a 

standout amongst the most vital qualities of 

woven textiles. Tensile strength is characterized 

as a most extreme load that a test example will 

continue when subjected to uniaxial tensile 

stacking. The strength of a fabric depends on the 

strength of constituent yarns, as well as on the 

yarn and fabric structure and numerous different 

components. The elements, which have impact on 

the tensile strength of fabric other than yarn 

strength, are yarn material, yarn fineness, number 

of finishes and picks per unit length and weave 

plan. Impact of weave, weft sort, and compound 

process on warp and weft way strip strength of 

fabric was shown in fig. 2 and fig. 3 separately. 

It can be plainly construed frame fig. 2 and 

fig. 3 that weave structure profoundly affects 

fabric breaking load. In all cases, plain structure 

and its subsidiaries demonstrated the most 

noteworthy breaking load taken after by fabrics 

with crepe, twill weaves and glossy silk weaves 

separately. Glossy silk weave set its position at the 

base of the rundown of tensile strength. At the 

point when fabric is extended in, one course i.e. at 

the point when fabric was subjected to uniaxial 

stack, at first the pleat toward that path decays. 

Fabric is generally simple to extend amid crease 

measurement. From that point onward, the yarn 

material starts bearing the heap that would trim 

down the expansion of the fabric. Henceforth, 

more the pleat in fabric, higher will be the fabric 

strength. Having higher record of interlacement 

and lower coasts, plain weave fabrics are more 

tightly and minimized, having the most extreme 

crease. Which is the principle explanation for high 

tensile strength of plain weave fabrics. The yarns 

are not held immovably in twill, crepe and glossy 

silk weave structure as in the plain weave. The 

tensile strength of glossy silk fabrics is minor than 

crepe and twill weave, this is principally because 

of bigger buoys in the weave structures [1]. 

Polyester weft fabrics are having most 

noteworthy tensile strength as contrast with 

cotton and cotton/polyester fabrics. This is on 

account of the characteristic strength of polyester 

multifilament yarn was higher than that of cotton 

and P/C mixed yarns. But if there should be an 

occurrence of polyester weft, in all different cases, 

the warp path strength of fabric was observed to 

be more than that of weft way strength. As we had 

kept 2:1 setting ratio of warp and weft, in the 

Figure 2: Effect on warp way strip strength 

Figure 3: Effect on weft way strip strength 



fabric development the nearness of closures is 

more than the picks. So more load-bearing 

segment was available in warp heading. 

Consequently, fabric strength in warp course is 

more than that of weft bearing. In any case, the 

strength of polyester and P/C mixed weft is higher 

than that of cotton warp. Thusly, weft way 

strength must be more prominent yet the impact 

of denser warp is more unmistakable for our 

situation. 

extensibility. The measure of pleat inside the 

fabric development assumes a part in deciding 

the extensibility of a fabric. At the point when 

uniaxial stack was connected to the fabric, fabric 

begins de-pleating first. Fabric is generally simple 

to extend/stretch in its pleat measurement. From 

that point forward, the yarn material starts 

bearing the heap that would stops the expansion 

of the fabric. Higher the quantity of 

interlacements per unit zone, lower will be the 

Figure 4: Effect on warp way elongation 

Figure 5: Effect on weft way elongation 

Synthetic preparing has negative impact on 

tensile properties of fabric. Activity of various 

chemicals and longer curing time makes more 

harm cellulosic fiber which assistant decreases the 

tensile strength of fabric. The increase of crossconnecting 

because of the tar could likewise cause 

diminishment of tensile strength of fabric [2]. 

3.1.2 Elongation 

Extensibility alludes to the degree with 

which a fabric will increase long under pressure. 

Diverse weaves have distinctive degrees of 

buoys and more noteworthy will be the crease. 

Likewise, higher pleat prompts higher 

prolongation. As a rule, the more drawn out the 

buoys inside the development the less extensible 

the fabric will be [3]. A plain weave has the best 

number of interweaving focuses and most 

minimal buoys in a given region, and in this way 

has most elevated level of crease. Consequently, 

fabrics with plain weave structure are related 

with higher breaking lengthening taken after by 

crepe, twill weave and glossy silk weave 



individually [1]. A similar pattern was found in 

portability of strands and yarns in fabric 

Figure 6: Effect on warp way tearing strength 

Figure 7: Effect on weft way tearing strength 

all cases. 

From fig. 4 and fig. 5, it can be obviously 

observed that in a large portion of the cases 

polyester weft fabrics have most noteworthy 

breaking stretching taken after by P/C mixed 

weft. Fabric with cotton weft indicate most 

minimal stretching esteems. The higher stretching 

of polyester weft fabrics can be attributed to the 

higher lengthening of polyester multifilament 

weft. The intrinsic prolongation of cotton weft 

was lower than that of polyester and P/C mixed 

weft. Subsequently, their fabrics have 

demonstrated lower breaking stretching. 

The breaking expansion of fabric up weft 

bearing was more in all cases than that of warp 

course. This is on the grounds that the polyester 

and P/C mixed weft yarns have fundamentally 

higher breaking prolongation than that of cotton 

warp. Preparing treatment increases the breaking 

prolongation of fabric. Pollutions like earth, wax, 

and so forth were expelled from fabric in the wake 

of completing treatment. Which increases the 

structure. Which might be the purpose for 

increased augmentation of completed products. 

Notwithstanding, this impact is not noteworthy. 

3.2 Tearing Strength 

Tearing is a standout amongst the most wellknown 

sorts of disappointment in textile fabrics 

and decides the durability of fabrics. The tear 

resistance is the strength parameter, which 

portrays the textile item as for its imperviousness 

to external mechanical powers. Impact of weave 

sort, weft sort, and compound preparing on warp 

way and weft way tearing strength of the fabric 

was as appeared in fig. 6 and fig. 7 separately. 

The simplicity with which a fabric tears is 

reliant on two factors: the measure of yarn 

slippage or versatility of the yarns inside the 

fabric development and the quantity of yarns, 

which will bear the heap. These two factors are 

dictated by the record of interlacement. The more 

noteworthy versatility or the straightforwardness 



with which the yarns can move, the harder it is to 

tear the fabric. Higher the record of 

interlacements, lower will be the buoys and lower 

strength of fabric. What's more, silicone 

conditioners give better tear strength to fabric [4]. 

In the vast majority of the cases, tearing strength 

Figure 8: Effect on abrasion resistance 

will be portability of yarns, which prompts bring 

down tearing strength of fabric. 

Higher tearing strength was related with silk 

weaves taken after by twill, crepe and plain 

weaves individually. The higher tearing strength 

of glossy silk weaves might be identified with the 

more drawn out pads in this kind of fabrics, 

which make yarns to be free under tearing burden 

[1]. Out of the every one of the weaves under 

examination, a plain weave will tear the least 

demanding. A plain weave is a tight development 

having minimal measure of inside slippage or 

yarn portability. What's more, just a single yarn 

bears the heap when the fabric is torn. Glossy silk 

and herringbone fabrics have looser 

development. The looser development will be 

harder to tear since it will take into consideration 

more inward versatility or yarn slippage [3]. 

Tearing strength of polyester weft fabrics 

was observed to be higher, trailed by P/C mixed 

weft and cotton weft fabrics. The purpose for 

higher tearing strength of polyester fabrics might 

be related with higher tensile strength of 

polyester weft. Free of weave sort, weft and 

handling, tearing strength in warp bearing was 

essentially higher than that of in weft course. This 

is a direct result of 2:1 setting ration of warp and 

weft. In given region number of finishes are more 

than number of pics consequently more 

prominent the quantity of yarns will bear the heap 

in warp heading, subsequently it is harder to tear 

the fabric in warp course. 

It was discovered that the substance 

preparing had constructive outcome on the 

tearing strength of fabric. Activity of Sarasoft EP 

tear improver utilized while completing 

treatment of the fabric had enhanced the tearing 

of completed fabric was essentially higher than 

that of dim fabric. 

3.3 Abrasion Resistance 

Abrasion is the mechanical deterioration of 

fabric parts by rubbing them against another 

surface. Abrasion ulti¬mately brings about the 

loss of execution attributes, for example, strength, 

yet it additionally influences the presence of a 

fabric [5]. The abrasion resistance of textile 

materials is affected by numerous fac¬tors like 

fiber fineness, yarn number, yarn sort, weave and 

so on [1]. In this examination, abrasion resistance 

of the woven fabric tests was assessed by the rate 

of fabric weight reduction. Lower the weight 

reduction of the fabric after test, more prominent 

the abrasion resistance of the fabrics. 

Weave sort significantly affects abrasion 

resistance of the fabrics. On the off chance that one 

arrangement of yarns is overwhelmingly at first 

glance, at that point this set will wear most. Long 

yarn coasts and a low number of interlacements 

cause the ceaseless contact with scraping surface. 

This encourages the yarn to lose its frame all the 

more effectively by giving simpler development 

in light of the rubbing movement. Longer the 

buoys, higher will be the abrasion. So long, glides 

in a weave, for example, silk structures are more 

uncovered and rub quicker, for the most part 

cause breaking of the yarns and expanding the 

mass misfortune. In the event of long buoys, upon 

abrasion holding the filaments in the yarn 

structure ends up noticeably harder and the 

expulsion of fiber ends up noticeably less 

demanding [6],[7]. In any case, the fabrics that 

have bring down buoys, for example, level plain 



weave fabrics have preferable abrasion resistance 

over different weaves in light of the fact that the 

yarns are all the more firmly secured structure 

and the wear is spread all the more equally over 

the majority of the yarns in the fabric [6],[8]. After 

silk weave herringbone twill has higher buoys 

taken after by 3/1 twill, crepe, matt and warp rib. 

Subsequently, the diminishing pattern of abrasion 

less odds of fiber misfortune. P/C mixed weft 

fabrics indicate direct abrasion resistance. 

From fig. 8, it can be surmised that in all 

cases, dim fabrics have higher abrasion resistance 

contrasted with completed fabrics with a similar 

development. Silicone conditioner treatment 

causes decrease in abrasion resistance of the 

fabrics. It is the plausible aftereffect of fiber 

Figure 9: Effect on warp way crease recovery 

Figure 10:Effect on weft way crease recovery 

resistance as far as weave is: plain, warp rib, 2/2 

matt, crepe, 3/1 twill, herringbone twill and silk. 

A similar pattern was seen in all cases. 

Weft sort likewise significantly affects rough 

conduct of the fabric. Cotton yarns are more 

inclined to rough wear and bristliness of cotton 

yarn has negative impact on grating conduct of 

fabric. Because of shagginess, fabric has more 

prominent propensity of pilling and along these 

lines weight reduction. Fabric woven with 

polyester weft has most noteworthy abrasion 

resistance. Being a multifilament yarn, polyester 

yarn can endure more rough wear and because of 

nonattendance or hairs on yarn structure there are 

portability inside the fabric, which is increased by 

silicone conditioner. Additionally as a result of 

crosslinking instrument while sap completing, 

abrasion resistance of fabric decreases [2],[4],[6]. 

3.4 Crease Recovery 

The crease recovery is one of the basic 

properties of fabrics, which influences item 

execution. Crease recovery alludes to the capacity 

of the fabric to come back to its unique shape 

subsequent to evacuating the collapsing 

disfigurements. The crease recovery of fabrics is 

dictated by measuring the crease recovery edge. 

As the crease recovery edge increases, crease 



recovery of the fabric increases i.e. higher 

recovery edges demonstrate fabric having great 

resistance against wrinkling [1]. Impact of weave, 

weft sort, and synthetic handling on warp way 

and weft way crease recovery of fabric was as 

appeared in fig. 9 and fig. 10 separately. 

The capacity of a fabric to oppose wrinkling 

is controlled by the measure of versatility the 

filaments and yarns have inside the development. 

The more opportunity they need to move, the 

simpler it is for them to come back to their casual 

state or the state they were in before twisting. The 

more tightly the weave, the less opportunity the 

yarns and filaments need to move [3]. Yarns and 

filaments inside a plain weave development have 

little flexibility to move about restricting their 

capacity to recoup after twisting. Consequently, 

plain weave fabrics have minimal imperviousness 

to wrinkling. Glossy silk and herringbone twill 

fabric have most astounding number of buoy and 

structure is relatively free which have most 

elevated wrinkle resistance and great crease 

recovery. 3/1 twill and crepe weave have direct 

crease recovery. While plain weave subsidiaries 

i.e. matt and warp rib fabrics have bring down 

crease recovery. Comparable pattern was seen in 

the vast majority of the cases. The capacity of a 

glossy silk weave to oppose wrinkling after home 

washing is an attractive component to the client. 

From fig. 9 and fig. 10, it was discovered that 

there is noteworthy impact of weft sort on wrinkle 

resistance property of fabric. At the point when a 

heap is connected on to the cotton fabrics, the 

cellulosic chain in the fiber twists and this bowing 

stays perpetual since the cellulosic chains are Inflexible. 

This bowing of the cellulose chains of the 

fiber under the use of load causes the 

development of crease [2]. Subsequently, cotton 

fabric has least crease resistance. In any case, 

because of nonattendance of any cellulosic chains 

in polyester, polyester fabrics have most elevated 

wrinkle resistance. P/C mixed weft fabrics have 

direct wrinkle resistance. It was discovered that 

there is no critical distinction in crease recovery 

point of a fabric in warp and weft heading. 

It can be effectively closed from fig. 9 and fig. 

10 that there is noteworthy contrast in crease 

recovery properties of dim and completed fabrics. 

At the point when a heap is connected on to the 

cotton fabrics, the hydrogen bonds shaped 

between the –OH gathering of adjoining cellulose 

chain in the crystalline district are broken (being 

a feeble obligation of constrain) when a cotton 

fabric is collapsed and squeezed. The breakage of 

the hydrogen bonds in the crystalline area and the 

development of new hydrogen bonds in the 

shapeless locale causes the arrangement of 

creases. The presentation of cross-connecting 

operator in pitch completing grants dimensional 

security and flexibility to the sinewy material and 

makes it crease safe and crease recoverable. The 

pitches respond with the –OH gatherings of 

cellulose shaping cross-joins, which is tough and 

henceforth increases the crease recovery along 

these lines dimensional strength of the fabric [2]. 

Silicone conditioners additionally give better 

wrinkle recovery [4]. 

Conclusions 

1. Index of interlacement plays vital role in 

changing fabric properties. 

2. Fabrics with highest index of 

interlacement like plain and plain weave 

derivatives have better abrasion 

resistance and tensile properties. 

3. Fabrics with lower index of interlacement 

like satin, herringbone twill results in 

loose fabric structure having high tearing 

strength and wrinkle resistance. 

4. Due to 2:1 setting ratio tensile and tearing 

strength of is higher in warp direction. 

5. Twill and crepe weave have shown 

temperate properties in all cases. 

6. Polyester weft fabrics have better 

durability and serviceability 

characteristics. 

7. Cotton yarns are more prone to abrasive 

wear due to protruding hairs on yarn 

surface. 

8. Finishing treatment softens the fabric, 

improves fabric crease recovery. 

9. Finished plain weave fabric with P/C 

blended weft will offer optimal 

performance in connection with 

durability and serviceability of apparels. 

References 

[1] G. Nassi, “Effect of weave structures and weft 

density on the physical and mechanical properties 

of micro polyester woven fabrics”, Life Science 

Journal, vol. 8, no. 8, pp. 947-952, 2012. 

[2] Ashish Hulle. Textile Finishing [online]. Available: 

http://textilecentre.blogspot.in/2014/01/textilefinishing.html. 

(accessed on 26 June 2014). 

[3] K. Anderson. It is Not Just an Aesthetic Decision: 

Choosing the Right Weave Design. Available: 

www.techexchange.com, pp.1-5, January 2007. 



[4] N. Çelik, Z. Değirmenci, H. K. Kaynak, “Effect of 

Nano-Sılıcone Softener on Abrasıon and Pilling 

Resistance and Color Fastness of Knıtted Fabrıcs”, 

Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, vol. 1, no. 1, pp. 41-47, 2010. 

[5] B. Jeon, S. Chun, C. Hong, “Structural and 

mechanical properties of woven fabrics employing 

pierce’s model”, Textile Research Journal, vol. 73, no. 

10, pp. 929-933, Oct. 2003. 

[6] M. Adamiak, Özdil N., Kayseri G. O. and Mengüç 

G. S., Analysis of Abrasion Characteristics in 

Textiles, Abrasion Resistance of Materials, InTech, 

2012, P 191-146. ISBN: 978-953-51-0300-4. 

[7] H. K. Kaynak, M. Topalbekiroğlu, “Influence of 

Fabric Pattern on the Abrasion Resistance Property 

of Woven Fabrics”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern 

Europe, vol. 16, no. 1, pp.54-56, 2008. 

[8] J. Hu, Fabric testing, Woodhead Publishing Series 

in Textiles, Cambridge, England, pp. 76, 2008, 

ISBN: 978-1-84569-506-4. 






REVIEW 

CONCEPT OF LEAN MANUFACTUIRNG 

Ravi Purohit*, Sarika Borikar 

Department of Textiles, Faculty of Fashion Technology, D.K.T.E Society’s, Textile and Engineering Institute, 

Ichalkaranji-416115, India. 



Received 06 February 2018 


Keywords: 

Benefits of lean, Implementation, 

Risks, Tools, Training, Types of 

wastages 


As a period is moving assembling enterprises are moving to the spots 

where work charges are less yet after setup likewise the assembling cost 

won't increment with time in light of the fact that there will be climb in 

labor charges, crude material charge, transport cost additionally 

deterioration and so forth these all outcomes in higher assembling cost 

per unit. Likewise, to maintain in this aggressive market producer 

cannot expand the selling cost so this outcome in lessening of the edge 

(Profit) to manage the profit level the main way is chip away at 

assembling cost diminishment and this can be accomplished by lean 

assembling. Lean assembling is a system where wastages and nonesteem 

exercises gets lessened by executing lean tools and making 

process wind up plainly lean so lean assembling is turning into a 

requirement for assembling businesses. This paper incorporates data 

about lean assembling, their advantages, execution process and lean 

tools. 


The importance of word lean signifies "Thin" 

in English lexicon. Japan has begun Lean 

assembling exceptionally Toyota fabricating 

however in actuality Henry Ford was the 

principal individual who had been utilizing parts 

of Lean as ahead of schedule as the 1920's he 

accepted and demonstrated that Shortening of the 

creation process duration lessens producing cost 

and longer the way toward assembling prompts 

high assembling cost. National Institute of 

Standards and Technology Manufacturing 

Extension Partnership's Lean Network: 

characterized lean as "An orderly way to deal 

with recognizing and taking out waste through 

ceaseless change, streaming the item at the draw 

of the client in quest for flawlessness.”Most 

association takes a shot at following equation; 

Selling price = Profit + Costs (1) 

Here we cannot expand selling cost in this 

aggressive world. Rather than this association 

should deal with: 

Profit 

= Selling price – Manufacturing Costs 

Lean attempts to lessen costs. Organizations 

that execute Lean regularly make critical cost 

reserve funds so there is immediate change in 

profitability. 

To end up noticeably phenomenal 

associations or Lean Enterprises the initial phase 

(2) 

* Corresponding author. Tel.: +919145629378 . 

E-mail:purohitravi49@gmail.com


in accomplishing that objective is to distinguish 

and attempt to take out the every one of sort's 

squanders. As Toyota and other superb 

associations have come to understand that clients 

are pays for esteem-included work, however 

never for squander. In straightforward words, 

Lean assembling chips away at 3 "M”, which is 

identified with, squander lessening. 

1. Muda- Systematic approach for waste 

elimination 

2. Mura- Waste generated by uneven 

workload. 

3. Muri- Waste created by overburden. 

Lean manufacturing is also about conversion 

of push system to pull system. 

2. The Seven Wastes 

2.1. Transporting 

Transportation does not enhance the item 

likewise in expands material development and 

taking care of which cause harm break down 

nature of the item. Transportation squander is 

exceptionally hard to lessen because of the costs 

of drawing gear and procedures nearer together 

likewise; it is hard to figure out which procedures 

ought to be beside each other. Material dealing 

with hardware's and Mapping item streams can 

make this less demanding to imagine. 

2.2 Unnecessary Inventory 

This waste is consequence of other wastage 

like over-creation and holding up. Work in 

advance (WIP) ought to be an ideal stock to work 

persistently however in the event that it is more 

than prerequisite then it is an abundance stock. 

Recognizable proof of issues gets postpone this is 

the most concerning issue with the 

overabundance stock. This causes more modify, 

less efficiency, increment in lead-time. Likewise, 

Inventory pieces income for association. 

2.3 Unnecessary/Excess Motion 

Motion does not boom the value of the item 

or management. "To transport and encompass 

esteem is referred to as work. To transport and not 

encompass esteem is called motion. Movement 

implies transferring without working, moving 

and which includes fee". This waste is identified 

with ergonomics regarding on foot, twisting, 

lifting, extending and coming to. Likewise, 

tedious motion reasons well-being and safety 

troubles, which within the gift society are 

polishing off relatively to a more degree an issue 

for associations. An exam has to be finished to the 

jobs with exorbitant motion and it have to be reintended 

for advancement. 

2.4 Waiting 

Conventional clump and-line fabricating 

contains extreme holding up time. Poor material 

stream, too long generation run and ill-advised 

work adjusting between two operations these are 

the real reasons that causes holding up sort of 

waste. Sitting tight for man, material and Machine 

prompts lesser profitability. Holding up time is 

specifically corresponding to the lead-time. 

Connecting forms together and adjusting 

appropriate work content in 2 consequent 

diminishes holding up. 

2.5 Overproduction 

Overproduction is about assembling 

excessively or too soon. Indeed, even a few 

organizations make more generation in some 

abundance rate so that if any issue comes in the 

process they can use that overabundance creation 

yet Overproduction is exceedingly costly to an 

assembling plant since it really corrupts quality 

and efficiency. 

Without a moment to spare (JIT) is the 

framework actualized by Toyota assembling to 

lessen this waste. In JIT item is made similarly as 

it is required. Furthermore, Overproduction 

prompts, intemperate lead-time, high stockpiling 

cost and it makes prepare hard to recognize 

abandons. 

2.6 Over Processing 

The waste over preparing is the reason for 

additional operation, unseemly systems, taking 

care of, oversize hardware, stockpiling, dealing 

with resistances that are tight likewise including 

additional procedures that are not required by the 

client et cetera. These all includes cost, time and 

cash. Minimal effort atomization and doing 

appropriate for first time is the answer for this 

waste. 

2.7 Defects 

Deformities are items or administrations that 

do not affirm to the determination or Customer's 

desire and which causing Customer 

disappointment. Deformities in a procedure 

causes revise or scrap which builds cost to 

associations. Through worker, association and 



Continuous Process Improvement both can add 

to diminish deserts at numerous offices. The two 

more sorts of extra wastages are: 

1. Energy wastage. 

2. Less utilization of talent. 

3. Steps for Lean Implementation 

3. Lower levels of Inventory. 

4. Greater levels of Stock Turnover. 

5. Less Space Required. 

6. Higher efficiencies, more yield per man-hour. 

7. Improved conveyance execution. 

8. Faster Development. 

9. Greater Customer Satisfaction. 

Management 

Commitment 

Vision and 

Mission 

Lean Training 

Planning 

Sustain 

Implimentation 

Initiative 

Plan 

Figure 1: Steps for Lean Implementation 

Steps for lean implementation are illustrated 

in fig. 1. 

4. Lean Training 

The way to executing any new thought or 

idea is preparing. Best down approach is taken 

after for preparing from upper administration to 

administrator level so that everybody is in 

agreement. Everybody ought to comprehend 

what lean assembling is and why association is 

actualizing it and the normal advantages from it. 

5. Lean Tools 

Following are the lean tools: 

5S Poka-Yoke JIT 

Kaizen 

Visual 

displays 

TPM 

SMED OEE VSM 

ANDON PDCA GEMBA 

KANBAN JIDOKA KPIS 

Rootcause 

analysis 

Bottleneck 

analysis 

Continuous 

flow 

5'S' (Sort, Set all together, sparkle, 

Standardize and manage) is an essential and most 

imperative instrument in this rundown and it is 

said that exclusive appropriate 5 "S" usage is 

sufficient to take organization to the new level. 

Different tools are additionally vital yet handle 

begin with 5 'S'. 

6. Practical Benefits of Lean manufacturing 

1. Quality execution, less deformities and 

revamp (in house and at client). 

2. Fewer Machine and Process Breakdowns. 

10. Improved representative spirit and 

association. 

11. Improved relations with supplier. 

12. More Profits! 

13. Increase in Business! 

14. Satisfaction of customers 

7. Risks of Implementing Lean 

Lean is not a fleeting procedure it requires 

contribution of everybody from upper level 

administration to administrator. Numerous 

associations are actualizing lean yet the 

maintaining part is getting to be noticeably 

troublesome. In addition, the attitude of 

individuals is opposing executing lean as though 

they think change in productivity can make their 

employment pointless. 

Conclusion 

Lean is material to any business however; 

Lean is turning into a requirement for an 

assembling association, as Lean associations can 

be more profitable and receptive to advertise than 

other association regarding items conveyance and 

speedier administrations, and give items and 

administrations less lavishly than their non-lean 

partners do. Lean is completely concentrating on 

client and it increase the value of the item. 

References 

M. L. George, “Lean Six Sigma: Combining six sigma 

quality with lean speed”, McGraw Hill Professional, 

New York, 2002, pp.1-300, ISBN- 9780071501903. 

T Earley, Benefits of Lean Manufacturing | Why 

Implement Lean? Available: 



http://leanmanufacturingtools.org/63/benefits-oflean-manufacturing 

(accessed on 1 st May 2016). 

L. Wilson, “How to Implement Lean 

manufacturing”, McGraw-Hill, New York, 2010, 

pp.1-319, ISBN: 978-0-07-162508-1. 

J .P. Womak and D. T. Jones, “Lean Thinking: 

Banish waste and create wealth in your corporation”, 

Simon and Schuster, New York, 2003, pp.1-400, 

ISBN: 9780743249270. 

E. M. Goldratt, J. Cox, “The Goal”, 2 nd ed., Gower 

Publishing, Aldershot, UK, 1993. ISBN: 978- 

0884271956 Goldratt, Eliyahu M.; Jeff Cox. The 

Goal: A Process of Ongoing Improvement. Great 

Barrington, MA. North River Press. ISBN 0- 

88427-061-0. 

T. Melton, “The Benefits of Lean Manufacturing- 

What Lean Thinking has to Offer the Process 

Industries” Trans IChemE, Part A, Chemical 

Engineering Research and Design, vol.83, No.A6, 

pp. 662–673, June 2005, doi: 10.1205/cherd.04351. 

©2018 by the authors. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non-commercial- 

No Derivatives 4.0 International License. 




REVIEW 

ENZYMES IN TEXTILE PROCESSING 

Vaibhav Nagaje* 

Morarjee Textiles Ltd., Nagpur 



Received 10 March 2018 


Keywords: 

Application, Enzyme 

Preparation, Textile Processing, 

Xylase etc. 


The use of catalysts in the textile compound handling is rapidly grabbing 

all around affirmation because of their non-noxious and eco-pleasing 

qualities with the unquestionably basic essentials for material makes to 

decrease contamination in textile creation. The compounds have many 

uses in the textile field, concerning emptying the starch, corrupting 

excess hydrogen peroxide, blanching textiles and debasing lignin, et 

cetera. The use of protein innovation is engaging in light of the way that 

chemicals are exceedingly specific and capable, and work under delicate 

conditions. In addition, the usage of impetuses brings about decreased 

process times, imperativeness and water venture stores, improved thing 

quality and potential process blend. 


To control carbon impression of the different 

textiles wet procedures, compound is one of the 

best alternatives before textile wet handling 

industry. On the off chance that we need to have 

ecofriendly textile wet preparing industry; it was 

emphatically suggested the utilization of protein. 

The proteins are presently considering a vital 

piece of practically turn away wet handling of 

textile. Proteins are a piece of "white bioinnovation", 

which is gone for rehearsing 

condition amicable application and utilizing 

inexhaustible assets. Proteins were found in the 

second 50% of the nineteenth century, and from 

that point forward have been widely utilized as a 

part of a few mechanical procedures. Compounds 

are normally happening natural item delivered by 

living life form. It is made out of a mind boggling 

three dimensional globular proteins, containing 

around 200 to 250 amino acids having sub-atomic 

weight as high as 104-105 and which are fit for 

catalyzing particular substance responses. 

Numerous catalysts contain some non-protein 

segments "cofactor" for enhanced synergist 

action. Being impetus of all responses in the living 

framework, the compounds are likewise called as 

'bio-impetus'. Business wellsprings of 

compounds are acquired from three essential 

sources, i.e., creature tissue, plants and 

microorganisms. These actually happening 

proteins are routinely not instantly open in 

sufficient sums for sustenance applications or 

mechanical use. By and by, mixes are conveyed 

from bacterial or parasitic species in far reaching 

maturing vessels. 

There are two settled compound applications 

in the textile business. Right off the bat, in the 

preliminary completing territory amylases are 

usually utilized for desizing process and 

furthermore, in the completing zone cellulases are 

utilized for softening, bio-stoning and decreasing 

of pilling affinity for cotton products. At show, 

employments of pectinases, xylanases, proteases, 


E-mail: drvaibhavnagaje@gmail.com


lipases, catalases, et cetera., are used for textile 

handling. There are different applications which 

involve compounds included blurring of denim 

and non-denim, bio-scouring, bio-cleaning, fleece 

completing, peroxide expulsion, decolourization 

of dyestuff, and so forth. 

2. Sources of Enzymes 

Living cell achieve particular biochemical 

response required in the metabolic and stomach 

related procedures to create chemical. Contingent 

on the compound and its motivation, the proteins 

might be discharged from the cell or might be 

held inside the cell. Most, yet in no way, shape or 

form all, of the present economically compounds 

are extracellular catalysts, which are created by 

cells however discovered for the most part 

outside the phones. Normally these are hydrolytic 

stomach related catalyst, for example, starches 

proteases, which act to make sustenance materials 

accessible to the cells in less complex and more 

solvent frame. 

Since every single living cell create catalysts, 

these are reachable from the plant tissues, 

creature tissues and smaller scale life forms. The 

creature based compounds, for example, 

pancreatic catalysts are set up from 

slaughterhouse squanders, for example, pancreas, 

thickened blood, liver, and so forth. Malt 

separates are produced using sprouted scarcely. 

Cases are maltostase, maltoferment, gabahit, 

diastase, diastafar, and so on. Catalysts are 

created by developing societies of certain 

miniaturized scale living beings in cleaned work. 

Illustrations are biolase, amylase, arey, taka, 

protease, and so on. The amounts of catalysts 

created on a business scale from plant and 

creature sources today are impressively huge, yet 

both for specialized and monetary reasons 

microbial compounds have turned out to be 

progressively critical. For the most part, there are 

two starting points of proteins, viz. bacterial 

source and contagious inception. Catalysts 

having a bacterial cause and contagious starting 

point are appeared in table 1 and table 2 

separately. 

Table 1: Enzymes with bacterial origin 

Sr. No. Enzyme Bacteria 

01. 

BacillusSubtilis, Licheniformi, 

Amylase 

Stearothermophilus 

02. Protease Bacillus Cereus 

03. Catalase Micrococcus Lysodeictius 

04. Xylase Streptomuces Aebus 

Sr. Enzyme Bacteria 

No. 

01. 

Aspergillus Niger, Oryzae, 

Amylase 

Rhizopus Oryzae 


02. Cellulase 

Pencillium Funiculosum, 

Rhizopus, Trichoderma, 

longibrachiatum 

03. Protease Aspergillus Niger, Oryzae 

04. Pectinase 


Pencillium, uniculosum, 

Longibrachiatum, 

Trichoderma 

05 Catalase Aspergillus Niger 

3. Classification of Enzyme 

Protein commission has separated 

compounds into six primary gatherings as 

indicated by the sort of response catalyze, which 

are as per the following: 

1. Oxido-reductases: It includes redox 

response in hydrogen and oxygen 

particles are exchanged between atoms. 

2. Transferases: It catalyzes the exchange of 

a particle or a gathering of an iota 

between two atoms e.g., oxidoreductases 

and hydrolases. 

3. Hydrolases: It includes hydrolytic 

responses and their inversion. It 

incorporates poteases, lipases, and so 

forth. 

4. Lyases: It incorporates transfer reaction 

in which a social occasion of atoms is 

removed from the substance e.g., 

decarboxylases, dehydratases. 

5. Isomerases: It catalyzes sub-atomic 

isomerization and incorporates the 

epimerases, racemerase. 

6. Ligases: Also known as synthetases. It 

includes the arrangement of the covalent 

bond combining two particles. 

4. Enzyme preparation 

4.1. Extraction 

Table 2: Enzymes with fungal origin 

Compounds happening in a plant or creature 

tissues or inside microbial cells must be gotten in 

the watery arrangement preceding further 

preparing. Typically, dry tissues are ground to 

fine molecule measure; wet tissues are completely 

broken down by pounding however such means 

as crushing with abrasives or ultrasonication. The 



material is then separated with water or suitable 

cushion arrangements, and insoluble flotsam and 

jetsam evacuated by filtration or centrifugation. 

Microbial extracellular chemicals are available in 

the development media and are acquired by 

sifting off the microbial cells or mycelium 

alongside the insoluble media segments. 

4.2. Purification 

Most business catalysts are thought yet not 

very cleansed items. Advance concentration and 

separation from net dissolvable pollutions can be 

affected by hastening the compounds by 

utilization of natural solvents e.g., ethanol, 

CH3)2CO or by the utilization of an inorganic salt, 

ammonium sulfate by and large being the best. 

Such precipitation must be directed at low 

temperatures and in the base conceivable time to 

dodge denaturation and loss of catalyst 

movement. The encouraged catalysts are then 

recuperated by filtration or centrifugation and 

dried in air or vacuum driers. Normally, such 

chemical concentrates will contain the coveted 

catalyst, as well as another compound and in 

addition inactive natural and inorganic materials, 

basically proteins, starches and fiery debris. 

4.3. Stabilization and Formulation 

Enzymes are financially used to achieve 

ordinary natural responses, which are modernly 

critical. They are sold as fluid or strong items on 

the premise of their intensity, either as 

concentrates or all the more normally, weakened 

to standard exercises. Fluid item may require the 

nearness of stabilizers to anticipate microbial 

development or misfortune compounds 

movement amid capacity. Specialists utilized 

incorporate sodium benzoate, glycerol, propylene 

glycol, sorbitol, and sodium chloride. Strong 

items are changed in accordance with standard 

potencies by the expansion of dilutents, for 

example, starch, lactose, dextrose, sucrose, flour, 

salts, gelatin, casein. Much of the time, cradles 

and different salts, for example, citrartes, calcium 

sulfate, and so on., are likewise utilized as a part 

of the definition of either or strong compound 

item, to keep up good pH condition and chemical 

action, strength. 

5. Enzymes as a biocatalyst for textile wet 

processes 

Enzymes can upgrade the response rate by 

106-1013 times and work under relatively mellow 

response conditions, for example, a temperature 

beneath 100℃ climatic weight and pH neither 

excessively acidic nor firmly basic. Small measure 

of enzyme is required to do synthetic responses. 

Enzymes utilized fundamentally less water, 

vitality, time for successful particular activity, 

help control general supportability and lessen the 

effect on carbon impression. 

The enzyme goes about as bio impetus in 

textile preparing. The enzymes are actually 

happening high sub-atomic weight proteins 

equipped for catalyzing the substance responses 

of organic process and subsequently are known as 

a biocatalyst. Enzymes are available in living 

beings and are themselves are non – living life 

forms. Basically, they take after proteins of 

differing intricacy in view of chains of amino 

acids connected by peptide linkages. Enzymes act 

chemically and quicken the concoction response. 

They don't ordinarily take an interest in the 

response, or on the off chance that they do as such, 

toward the finish of the response, they are 

recuperated thusly with no quantitative or 

subjective change. When contrasted with the 

conventional impetuses, the enzyme impetus 

gives a higher rate of response at bring down 

vitality utilization. Enzymes can realize 

Hydrolysis, oxidation, Reduction, Coagulation 

and Decomposition. 

6. Enzyme Mechanism 

The enzymes contain genuine movement 

focuses as three dimensional structures as gaps, 

openings, pockets and depressions or hollows. 

The dynamic site is a piece of the enzyme atom 

that joins with the substrate. The quantity of the 

dynamic site per enzyme particle is little, by and 

large just a single. To catalyze a response, the 

enzyme particle makes a complex adsorb on to the 

surface of the substrate in Lock and Key form. 

Figure 1 Figure 1: Lock and key analogy of enzyme 



7. Factors Affecting on Enzymes 

1. PH value: Enzymes have ideal pH 4 to 9. 

Past these cutoff points denaturation of 

enzyme happens. 

2. Temperature: If the temperature is 

increased by 100C, the rate of the vast 

majority of the synthetic responses pairs. 

3. Time: Time for the response is reverse to 

the concentration of the enzyme, i.e. 

progressively the concentration of the 

enzyme less will be the time required for 

response and bad habit – versa. 

4. Activator: To initiate reactant action of 

enzyme nearness of certain bivalent 

metallic cations. These metals settle the 

structure of enzyme-substrate complex or 

the substrate to assault of the enzyme. 

5. Inhibitor: It squares catalyzes movement 

of enzyme and capacity as an inhibitor. 

The restraint might be aggressive or nonfocused 

to keep an ordinary response. 

8. Enzyme Application in Different Textile 

Processes 

Distinctive enzymes are having diverse uses 

in textile handling. Table 3 displays the use of 

Enzymes in textile procedures. 

2. The enzyme remains set up toward the 

complete of response by going about as 

impetus 

3. The activity of the concoction at that pH 

and temperature is the zenith 

9.2 Enzymes operate under milder condition 

1. Each enzyme has ideal temperature and 

ideal pH i.e. action of enzyme at specific 

temperature and pH and is on the 

pinnacle 

2. For the greater part of the enzyme 

movement corrupts on the both sides of 

ideal condition 

9.3 Alternative for polluting chemicals 

1. Enzymes can be used as best 

differentiating alternative to toxic, risky, 

pollution making chemicals 

2. Also some contamination chemicals are 

even cancer-causing. When we utilize 

enzymes there is no contamination 

9.4 Enzyme acts only on specific substrate 

1. Most enzymes have high level of 

specificity and will catalyze the response 

Sr. 

No. 

Fabric 

Type 

9. Advantages of Enzyme used in textiles 

9.1 Enzyme accelerates the reaction 

1. An enzyme quickens the rate of specific 

response by bringing down the 

enactment vitality of response 

Table 3: Application of Enzymes in Textile Processes 

Process 

Conventional 

Chemicals 

Substituting Enzyme 

01. Cellulosic Desizing Acid Alpha- amylase & lipase 

02. Cellulosic Scouring Caustic and Soap Pectinase, Cellulase & Lipase 

03. Cellulosic Bleaching 

Sodium chlorate, 

bleaching powder, Oxidoreductose & catalase 

etc. 

04. Cellulosic Finishing Singeing, etc. Cellulase & protease 

05. Denim Enzyme wash Stone wash Cellulase & protease 

06. 

Carbonization 

Wool and 

Acid and alkali or 

and 

Silk 

soap 

Degumming 

Cellulase, pectinase & protease 

07. 

Flax and 

Jute 

Retting Water , dew or steam Hemicellulase & pectinase 

with one or few substrates 

2. One particular enzyme will simply 

catalyze a specific kind of response. 

Enzymes used as a piece of desizing don't 

impact cellulose thus there is no loss of 

strength of cotton 



9.5 Enzyme are easy to control 

Enzymes are definitely not hard to control in 

light of the way that their development depends 

on perfect condition. 

9.6 Enzymes are biodegradable 

Toward the finish of response in which 

enzymes utilized, we can basically deplete the rest 

of the arrangement since enzymes are 

biodegradable and don't create lethal waste on 

debasement consequently there is no pollution. 

Conclusion 

Pollution free procedures are making strides 

everywhere throughout the world. In this 

situation, enzymes rising as the best contrasting 

option to the contaminating textile preparing 

strategies. Enzymes are not just gainful from the 

biological perspective however they are 

additionally sparing a great deal of cash by 

decreasing water and vitality utilization which 

eventually lessen the cost of production. 

References 

A. Athalye, "Desizers and Deciders", 

Colourage, 43, Sept. 2012. 

A. G. Sabale and V. M. Rane, "Enzymes for 

today and tomorrow", Colourage, 33, May 

2012. 

N. Sekar, "Biotechnology in textile 

processing: an update", Colourage, 27, Jan. 

1999. 

S. R. Naik and R. Paul, "Application of 

Enzymes in Textile Processing", Asian Textile 

Journal, 48, February (1997). 

Shukla S. R., L. R. Jajpura and A. J. Damle, 

"Enzymes: The Biocatalyst for textile 

processes", Colourage, 41, Nov. 2003. 

P. Thiagarajan P. and N. Selvakumar, 

"Cotton, Pectinolytic Enzymes & Enzymatic 

Scouring of Cotton", Colourage, 51, Sept. 2008. 

B. Pancholi and G. Shah, "Enzymes and Textiles", 

Mantra Textile Magazine, Vol. 4/12, No. 1, Aug. 2010. 






ARTICLE TYPE 

EFFECT OF NUMBER OF WEB LAYERS ON PROPERTIES OF 

NEEDLE PUNCHED POLYESTER NONWOVEN FABRIC 

Sanyukta Bhosale* 

Bombay Rayon Fashion Limited, India 



Received 25 February 2018 

Accepted 01 April 2018 

Keywords: 

Filtration, Orientation, Pore size, 

Mechanical properties, Web 

layers etc. 


This examination is planned to build up a comprehension of the impact 

of number of web layers on qualities of needle punched polyester 

nonwoven fabric. Three diverse needle-punched nonwoven fabric tests 

were fabricated by fluctuating number of layers viz. 6, 8 and 10 with the 

end goal that the resultant areal density of fabric stays steady. Needle 

punched nonwoven fabric was fabricated from polyester staple fiber of 

length 80 mm. Other machine parameters like punch density (180 

punches/cm2) and depth of penetration (8mm) were kept consistent. 

Exploratory outcomes demonstrate that with an expansion in number of 

layers there is bit by bit increment in fabric thickness yet the porosity and 

air permeability diminishes. Be that as it may, fiber orientation turns out 

to be more arbitrary which is fundamental for powerful filtration 

execution of the fabric. There is no impact of an adjustment in number 

of layers on the mechanical properties of fabric. An example having 10 

layers has a superior filtration trademark that shows ideal thickness with 

wanted porosity and permeability with same areal density as that of 

different examples. 


Nonwovens are the items made by parallel 

laid, cross-laid or heedlessly laid networks 

fortified by mechanical means or with the use of 

glues or thermoplastic fibers underutilization of 

warmth and pressure. The prominence of these 

fabrics is growing gigantically in perspective of its 

variable yet one of kind properties. Nonwoven 

fabrics are call as tailor-influenced fabrics as we to 

can produce the fabric with liked properties. 

Fabrics properties of nonwovens extend fresh to 

that soft-to-the-touch to brutal, hard to-tear to 

extraordinarily weak. This prompts a broad 

assortment of the things, for instance, nappies, 

channels, teabags, geo-materials; et cetera, some 

of which are solid and others are nonessential. 

Interchange properties are compressibility, 

adaptability. By applying distinctive 

culminations, the properties of nonwoven can be 

refreshed. They can be heat proof, hydrophobic, 

hydrophilic, wash and destructive protection and 

antagonistic to microbial. 

There are assorted process parameters that 

are required to be set while producing nonwoven 

fabric with any innovation. All these procedure 

parameters can influence the properties of 

delivered fabric. By changing the procedure 

parameter, we can without much of a stretch 

modify the properties of the nonwoven fabric. To 

get wanted properties in the last thing it is basic 

to streamline the procedure parameters. 

Numerous investigations were done on the 


Tel:+918856088180

Pore diameter (microns) 

Thickness (mm) 


impact of depth of penetration and punch density 

on properties of needle punched nonwoven fabric 

and the impact of number of layers isn't 

tremendously investigated thus it is worth to 

think about the impact of quantities of layers on 

the properties of the needle punched nonwoven 

fabric by keeping GSM Constant. 

This investigation will center around 

properties of needle-punched nonwoven by 

differing the quantity of layers keeping fabric 

areal density consistent. This parameter affects 

the properties of made nonwoven fabric that is 

dictated by describing the produced fabric tests. 

2. Materials and Methods 

In this examination, reused polyester 

filaments were utilized to fabricate nonwoven 

with needle punching innovation. Nonwoven 

fabric tests were produced utilizing web having 

three diverse number of layers viz. 6, 8 and 10 to 

such an extent that areal density of fabric stays 

unaltered. Other machine parameters like punch 

density (180 punches/cm2) and depth of 

penetration (8mm) were kept steady. Test runs 

are appeared in table 1. 

Table 1 Sample runs 

Number 

Sample of 

layers 

NL6 6 

NL8 8 

NL10 10 

Punch 

Density 

(Punches/cm 2 ) 

Depth of 

Penetration 

(mm) 

180 8 

All the fabricated fabric tests were described 

in standard barometrical conditions for various 

properties, for example, areal density, thickness, 

fiber orientation, porosity, air permeability, 

bursting strength, tensile strength. Subsequent to 

testing properties of nonwoven tests, the acquired 

outcomes were broke down by utilizing one way 

ANOVA. 

3. Result and Discussion 

3.1 Areal Density and Fabric Thickness 

The areal density (GSM) portrays the mass of 

material per unit territory of the material decided 

by ASTM D5261. It has been discovered that there 

is no critical impact of number of layers of GSM 

fabric as the investigation is conveyed by keeping 

the GSM of fabric consistent. 

The thickness of needle punched nonwoven 

fabric was tried by ISO 9073-2 standard on SDL 

Atlas advanced thickness analyzer. Fig. 1 

demonstrates the impact number of layers on the 

thickness of polyester needle punched nonwoven 

fabric. 

2.1 

2.054 

2 

1.9 

1.8 

1.7 

1.832 

Figure 1: Fabric thickness 

From fig. 1, it can be unmistakably observed 

that with an expansion in number layers from 6 to 

10 there is 12.11% expansion in fabric thickness. 

The impact number of a layer of fabric thickness 

is noteworthy. This can be credited to the way 

that, as number of layers expands the 

combination is somewhat poor and flawless 

conservativeness isn't accomplished because of a 

steady depth of needle penetration. This outcome 

in the arrangement of voids between the fabric 

layers which prompts expanded loftiness of the 

fabric and assistant the thickness of the fabric. 

Henceforth without modifying any machine 

(punch density, depth of penetration, speed, and 

so forth.) and also a material parameter (type, 

amount, and so on.) we can change the fabric 

thickness just by expanding the quantity of web 

layers keeping resultant areal density consistent. 

3.2 Pore Diameter 

1.928 

NL6 NL8 NL10 

Number of layers 

Porosity is the gross measure of open volume 

in the given nonwoven fabric. Pore measure 

appropriation is a pre-imperative to explore any 

vehicle wonders, particularly in a permeable 

incorporate filtration, separation [6]. 

3500 

2987.934 

2759.024 

3000 

2500 

2241.485 

2000 

1500 

1000 

500 

0 

1304.5673 

1714.3168 

1191.3491 

145.168 178.2182 95.0473 

NL6 NL8 NL10 


Figure 2: Pore diameter 

small 

mean 

large 


Bubble point pressure 

(psi) 

SAP (cm3/s/cm) 


Testing of pore size of needle punched 

nonwoven fabric was done by ASTM F316-03. The 

pore diameter was acquired regarding little, mean 

and extensive by porosity test technique. Figure 2 

shows the impact of number of layers on pore 

diameter of needle punched nonwoven fabric. 

From fig. 2, it can be watched that as number of 

layers increments there is a decline in little, mean 

and additionally huge pore diameter. 

Nonetheless, this pattern isn't noteworthy. One of 

the conceivable purposes for this pattern is 

covering of filaments. As the quantity of web 

layers increments, there is a more irregular game 

plan of filaments that causes covering of strands 

coming about enclosement of the pore. Due to 

enclosement of pores by resulting layers, there is 

a diminishment in pore diameter. 

3.3 Bubble Point Pressure 

It is a pressure over the fabric required to 

shape a bubble at first glance. It relies upon the 

fiber course of action and pore diameter. Figure 3 

demonstrates the impact of number of layers on 

bubble point pressure. 

0.014 

0.013 

0.011 

0.012 0.01 

0.01 

0.008 

0.006 

0.004 

0.002 

0 

NL6 NL8 NL10 


Figure 3: Bubble point pressure 

From figure 3, it is obviously induced that 

the bubble point pressure fundamentally 

increments as the quantity of layers increments. 

As number of layers expands the randomization 

in the fiber game plan builds which bring about 

covering of strands. This covering of strands has 

a tendency to lessen the pore diameter and makes 

it minimal. For the minimized structure of the 

fabric with little pore estimate, more pressure is 

required to drive liquid of certain volume through 

it. Henceforth, more pressure drop is there over 

the fabric having 10 layers as it has littler pore 

estimate. Bubble point pressure increments by 

30% from NL6 to NL10 fabric. 

3.4 Sectional Air Permeability (SAP) 

Sectional air permeability is utilized to look at the 

permeability of various fabric tests. Air 

permeability does not demonstrate any 

association with fabric thickness. This is because 

of reason that permeability of the fabric can be 

considered as far as cross-sectional territory of 

every entire, depth of each opening per unit zone. 

It is possible that to the fabric may have same 

permeability. It is, along these lines, alluring to 

have figure free of thickness to speak to air 

receptiveness of fabric i.e. sectional air 

permeability characterized as air permeability of 

fabric [7]. On TexTest-FX3300 machine, the testing 

of air permeability of nonwoven fabric is 

completed by ASTM D737-96 standard. The 

impact of number of layers on air permeability of 

polyester needle punched nonwoven fabric is 

appeared in fig.4. 

Fig. 4 gives the unmistakable thought that as 

number of layers builds sectional air permeability 

increments. The impact of number of layers on 

sectional air permeability is critical. In spite of the 

fact that air permeability does not appear to 

change with the thickness of fabric, the SAP 

changes proportionately with a thickness of fabric 

and a similar pattern was seen by Vinay Kumar 

Midha [7]. 

200 

195 

190 

185 

180 

175 

170 

179.718 

Figure 4: Sectional air permeability of fabric 

SAP diminishes with increment in fabric 

weight. While the expansion in number of layers, 

the fabric end up thicker. Despite the fact that the 

quantity of pores increments with increment in 

number of fiber, the pore estimate winds up 

littler. Most extreme pore measure dissemination 

and the diameter at greatest pore estimate 

conveyance increments as number of layers 

increments. SAP and thickness are adversely 

associated with noteworthy connection 

coefficient as appeared in both the diagrams. 

3.5 Nonwoven Orientation 

185.256 

194.484 

NL6 NL8 NL10 


The orientation of fiber that is in the 

nonwoven structure is a key component toward 

the path or level of orientations that influences the 


Nonwoven orientation 

Extension (mm) 

Breaking load (N) 


property, for example, tensile strength and 

extension. The course of action of strands in 

nonwoven is depicted by the fiber pressing game 

plan as well as by fiber directional game plan that 

is fiber orientation. The web structure assumes a 

noteworthy part in deciding the physical normal 

for needle punched fabric. Needle punched fabric 

is centered around weight consistency that is MD 

and CD [8]. 

The testing of nonwoven orientation is 

carried on lazing instrument NOS 200 machine by 

in house strategy. The impact of number of layers 

on fiber orientation is appeared if fig. 5. 

1 

0.8 

0.6 

0.4 

0.2 

0 

0.352 

Figure 5: Nonwoven orientation of fabric 

There is a huge impact of number of layers 

on fiber orientation. Fiber orientation increments 

as number of layers increments. There is 169.60% 

expansion in the orientation from number of layer 

6 to number of layer 10. There is a huge impact of 

number of layers on the nonwoven orientation of 

the fabric. As the quantity of layers builds the 

randomization of the of the strands increment 

which is spoken to by MD/CD ratio. The 

randomization is because of more number of 

filaments are laid in an alternate bearing for 

steady GSM of the fabric. 

3.6 Tensile Strength 

0.534 

0.949 

NL6 NL8 NL10 


Mechanical properties of the material are 

critical where the material is subjected to stacking 

amid its execution. The tensile strength of needlepunched 

nonwoven is tried by ISO 9073-3 

standard on Instron 5967. 

From fig. 6, we can presume that there is no 

critical impact of number of layers on the tensile 

strength of fabric both in the machine course and 

cross bearing. There is no huge impact of number 

of layers on breaking heap of the fabric. This is on 

the grounds that all the fabric tests were produced 

by keeping steady areal density. Due to which the 

heap bearing segment per unit zone of fabric stays 

same in unit zone. Thus, tensile properties are 

unaffected. 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

0 

Figure 6: Breaking load of fabric (MD and CD) 

3.7 Extension 

Fig. 7 shows the impact of number of layers 

on the extensibility of tests. 

170 

166 

162.5 

165 

158.83 

160 155.46 

155 

149.83 

150 

145 138.56 

140 

135 

130 

125 

120 

NL6 NL8 NL10 

Figure 7: Extension of fabric 

From fig. 7, it can be watched that there is no 

huge impact of number of layers on the extension 

of the fabric i.e. drift is vague. This pattern is 

because of reality that more randomized 

orientation. This randomized orientation prompts 

uniform dissemination of the heap toward all 

path. 

3.8 MD/CD Ratio 

238.27 

217.51 227.14 

165.43 

249.13 

192.01 

NL 6 NL8 NL10 


MD 

CD 


MD CD 

MD/CD ratio is the pointer of an anisotropic 

normal for fabric. From MD/CD ratio, we come to 

think about directional impacts. Fiber orientation 

influences this ratio. Fig. 8 demonstrates the 

impact of number of layers on the MD/CD 

steadiness ratio of fabric. 


Bursting strength (Kpa) 

MD/CD Ratio 


2.5 

1.5 

0.5 

0.8719 

0.9128 

Figure 8: MD/CD Ratio 

There is no noteworthy impact of number of 

layers on MD/CD ratio. Fabric demonstrates 

comparable properties in the machine and 

additionally cross heading. This is a direct result 

of expanded fiber randomization. 

3.9 Bursting strength 

1.0845 

1.373 1.2974 

The bursting strength of needle punched 

nonwoven fabric was conveyed with ISO 9073-2 

standard. Fig. 9 demonstrates impact number of a 

layer on bursting strength of the fabric. 

930 927 

925 

920 

915 

910 

905 

900 

895 

3 

2 

1 

0 

NL6 NL8 NL10 

Load 


906 

Extension 

Figure 9: Bursting strength of fabric 

921 

NL6 NL8 NL10 


1.0457 

As we find in the fig.9, there is no critical 

impact of number of layers on bursting strength 

of the fabric. It is verifiable truth that with an 

expansion in weight, there is an expansion in 

bursting strength however in this, the GSM of 

fabric is steady consequently there is no huge 

impact on bursting strength. The other reason can 

be given as the rate distinction is the base from 

number of layer 6 to number of layer 10 i.e. 0.64%. 

That there is no critical impact of number of layers 

on bursting strength of the fabric. 

4. Conclusion 

With the expansion in number of web layers 

fiber orientation turn out to be more arbitrary and 

builds fiber covering. Expanded fiber covering at 

a higher number of web layers encases pores 

coming about decreased pore diameter. Bubble 

point pressure increments with increment in 

number of layers. Because of consistent weight 

per unit, a territory the heap bearing part stays 

steady so tensile properties stay unaltered. By 

expanding number of web layers, there is a huge 

change in auxiliary attributes of polyester needle 

punched nonwoven fabric. In any case, 

mechanical attributes stay unaltered. 

Consequently, we can plan a fabric of wanted 

filtration qualities without modifying different 

properties. An example having 10 layers has a 

superior filtration trademark that shows ideal 

thickness with wanted porosity and permeability 

with same areal density. 

5. References 

Bergado D.T., Manivannan R. and 

Balsubramaniam A.S., “Filtration criteria for 

prefabricated vertical drain geotextile filter jackets 

in soft bankok clay”, Geosynthetics 

International, A.S.1996, vol.3, no.1, pp.63-83. 

Kopitar Dragana, Skenderi Zenun, Rukavina 

Tatjana, “Influence of pressure on water 

permeability and characteristics opening size of 

nonwoven geo textile”, Journal of fibre 

Bioengineering and Informatics 6:1, pp.103- 

115, 2013. 

Tharewal P. G., Landage S. M., Wasif A. L., 

“Application of nonwoven for air filtration”, 

Indian Journal of Advanced Research in IT 

and Engineering, Vol. 2, February, 2013, 

ISSN:2278-6244. 

Russell S. J., “Handbook of Nonwoven”, 

Woodhead Publishing, 2007, eBook ISBN: 

9781845691998. 

Rawal A., “structural analysis of pore size 

distribution of nonwovens”, The Journal of the 

textile institute, April 2010, vol.101, pp.350- 

359. 

“Handbook of Geotextile”, The Bombay Textile 

Research Association, 2012, ISBN: 

9788176741323. 

Midha V. K., Alagirusamy R. and Kothari 

V.K., “Studies on properties of hollow polyester 

needle-punched fabrics”, IJFTR, vol.29, pp.391- 

399, December 2004. 

Dan F., Kusters A., “Web Forming and the 

impact on fabric performance”, April 18, 2012, 

www.inda.org/BIO/cab2012_449_PPT.pdf 



(Assessed on: 02/06/2016). 

Musa A., Rong Hugh Gong, Nasir E., 

“Analysis of fabric orientation of thermal bonded 

nonwoven”, 

http://aip.scitation.org/boi/abs/10.1063/1.494 

0300 (Accessed on 10 March 2017). 

Kothari V.K. and Patel P.C., “Theoretical Model 

for predicting creep behavior of nonwoven fabric”, 

IJFTR, vol. 26, pp.273-279, Sept. 2001. 

Sakthivel, “Development of needle-punched 

nonwoven fabrics from reclaimed fibres for air 

filtration application”, JEFF -4, Issue 1, pp-512, 

2014. 






ARTICLE TYPE 

MODEL FOR IMPROVING FAILURE MODES AND EFFECTIVE 

ANALYSIS 

Rushikesh Mahendra Bhattad*, Vaishnavi Raghuraj Baheti 

D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji-416115, Maharashtra, India. 



Received 06 March 2018 

Accepted 08 April 2018 

Keywords: 

Detection, Ishikawa diagram, 

Occurrence, Severity etc. 


The overgrowing need of the market and every now and again 

changing style has encouraged the attire business to full-fill these 

necessities by giving an ideal amount of best quality items with a 

specific end goal to keep the situation in the market. A gigantic decent 

variety as far as work, procedures, devices and material prompt event 

of different deficiencies and mistakes which should be dispensed with 

to create high review send out quality items. FMEA is one of the ways 

which encourages this disposal just before they appear to happen. The 

current model of FMEA isn't good in clothing industry since this part is 

work concentrated and has varieties in each progression ideal from 

marker making up to completing and pressing of the garments. In this 

paper we have proposed an altered adaptation of actualizing FMEA 

wherein a colossal variety in the Garment industry as far as Man, 

Material, Machine and Mode are thought about in light of Ishikawa 

chart. This new model isn't just focused on identification of deficiencies 

yet in addition prescribes the moves to be made for diminishing these 

flaws. 


1.1 What is FMEA? 

FMEA is a subjective and precise tool, 

typically made inside a spreadsheet, to enable 

experts to suspect what may turn out badly with 

an item or process. Notwithstanding 

distinguishing how an item or process may come 

up short and the effects of that failure, FMEA 

likewise finds the conceivable reasons for 

failures and the probability of failure being 

recognized before the event. 

FMEA organizes failures as per seriousness, 

recurrence and perceptibility. Seriousness 

portrays the earnestness of the failure results. 

Recurrence depicts how regularly failures can 

happen. Perceptibility alludes to a level of 

trouble in identifying failures. 

FMEA can be utilized from the most 

punctual plan and applied stages ahead through 

advancement and testing forms, into process 

control amid progressing activities for the 

duration of the life of the item or framework. 

1.2 History 

Methods for directing FMECA were 

depicted in US Armed Forces Military 


E-mail: rushikeshbhattad@gmail.com


Procedures archive. By the mid-1960s, 

contractual workers for NASA were utilizing 

varieties of FMECA or FMEA under an 

assortment of names. Amid the 1970s, utilization 

of FMEA and related systems spread to different 

businesses. In 1971 NASA arranged a report for 

the U.S. geographical review suggesting the 

utilization of FMEA in the appraisal of seaward 

oil investigation. A 1973 U.S Environmental 

Protection Agency report depicted the use of 

FMEA to wastewater treatment plants. FMEA as 

an application for HACCP on the Apollo Space 

Program moved into the sustenance business as 

a rule. 

The car business started to utilize FMEA by 

the mid-1970s. The Ford Motor Company 

acquainted FMEA with the car business. Albeit at 

first created by the military, FMEA methodology 

is currently widely utilized as a part of an 

assortment of ventures including semiconductor 

handling, nourishment benefit, plastics, 

programming, and social insurance. 

2. Types of FMEA 

2.1 Design FMEA 

Design FMEA helps in the outlined procedure by 

distinguishing known and predictable failure 

modes and afterward positioning failures as per 

relative effect on the item. Hence Design FMEA 

centres around the relative effect of the failure 

mode on the item. 

2.2 Process FMEA 

Process FMEA recognizes potential process 

failure modes by positioning failures and setting 

up needs as per the relative effect on the inner or 

outside client. Hence Process FMEA centres 

around the relative effect of the failure mode on 

inward or outer client. 

3. When to Use FMEA? 

FMEA can be used for: 

1. Outlined or overhauled of the process, 

item or administration after quality 

capacity arrangement. 

2. Inventive utilization of a current 

procedure, item or administration. 

3. Before creating control gets ready for 

another or altered process. 

4. When change objectives are gotten ready 

for a current procedure, item or 

administration. 

5. When dissecting failures of a current 

procedure, item or administration. 

6. Periodically for the duration of the life of 

the procedure, item or administration 

4. Traditional FMEA Procedure 

1. Identify Failure modes (What could turn 

out badly?) 

2. Identify Failure causes (Why might the 

failure happen?) 

3. Identify Failure effects (What might be 

the outcomes of every failure? 

4. Identify the severity(S) of each reason 

and rate it as per the FMEA table. 

5. Identify the rate of the event (O) of each 

reason and give the event number from 

the FMEA table. 

6. Identify the identification parameter (D) 

as per the simplicity of location by 

utilizing FMEA table. 

Table 1 Ranking Method 

Rank Severity Occurrence Detection 

1 None Almost never Almost certain 

2 Very minor Remote Very high 

3 Minor Very slight High 

4 Very low Slight Moderately high 

5 Low Low Moderate 

6 Moderate Medium Low 

7 High Moderately high Very low 

8 Very high High Remote 

9 Serious Very high Very remote 

10 Hazardous Almost certain Almost impossible 

32 Volume: xx Issue: xx | Month-Year, www.jtcsonline.com


Calculate the risk priority number, or RPN, 

which breaks even with S × O × D. Additionally 

ascertain Criticality by increasing seriousness by 

the event, S × O. 

Identify prescribed activities. These 

activities might be a plan or process changes to 

bring down seriousness or event. They might be 

extra controls to enhance recognition. Likewise 

note who is in charge of the activities and target 

fruition dates. 

As activities are finished, a note comes 

about and the date on the FMEA frame. 

Additionally, note new S, O or D appraisals and 

new RPNs 

4.1 Remark 

On the off chance that the numerical esteem 

falls between two numbers constantly select the 

higher number. In the event that the group has a 

contradiction in the positioning quality: 

In the event that the contradiction is an 

adjoining class, normal out the distinction 

In the event that the contradiction hops one 

class. Indeed, even with one individual waiting, 

add up to the agreement must be come to. No 

normal, no greater part. Everybody in that group 

must have responsibility for positioning. 

4.2 Significance of RPN 

Risk Priority Number, which is the result of 

the seriousness, event and discovery evaluations 

is ascertained as 

RPN = S × O × D 

1. The RPN must be computed for each 

reason for failure. 

2. RPN demonstrates the relative 

probability of a failure mode. 

3. The higher number, the higher the 

failure mode. 

4. From RPN, a basic synopsis can be 

attracted up to feature the zones where 

activity is for the most part required. 

5. The RPN is re-computed after the failure 

has been tended to. The re-examined 

RPN affirms the effectiveness of the 

remedial dynamic attempted. 

5. Modified Version of FMEA for Apparel 

Industry 

5.1 Problem Statement 

In the event that we take a gander at quality 

as the level of fulfillment with what we deliver, 

we offer, give or offer, tending to circle these 

clients are progressively extending, it is 

important to characterize the confinements that 

are available in the making of value. Quality Risk 

Management has runs by which incorporate 

measures, methods and instruments to recognize 

risks of value, rank, process, control, confine or 

lessen and the preventive effect of keeping their 

event. For instance, the generation of top-notch 

garment items is important to predict every 

single conceivable risk that can prompt 

decreased security when wearing garment items, 

for example, catches tumbling off, harmed 

creases or pockets, tearing, tearing interlining, 

and so on. When we think about attire industrywide 

variety as far as Man, Material, Machine 

and Method are watched. Being work 

concentrated industry the variety in absconds 

happening can't be institutionalized. By 

recognizing these risks, evaluate and examine 

the conduct of garment items to wear, with the 

ultimate result relies upon the capacity of makers 

in the view of conceivable outcomes and 

modification of performance items. 

Table 2 Labelling Details 

Level Man Material Method Machine 

Level 1 

S -Skilled 

Labour 

UM-Uniform Material with 

Standard Components 

ET- Eton 

System 

FA- Fully 

Automated 

Level 2 

SS -Semi Skilled 

Labour 

DM-Different Material with 

Design variation 

UPS-Unit 

Production 

System 

SA - Semi- 

Automated 

Level 3 

US -Unskilled 

Labour 

RM-Raw Material & Design 

Variations 

BL- Bundle 

Line 

M- Manual 

Volume: xx Issue: xx | Month-Year, www.jtcsonline.com 33


5.2 Methodology 

Taking the above issue articulation into 

thought we have chosen 4 factors Man, Machine, 

Material and Method with 3 unique levels of 

each. 

5.2.1 Man 

Labour assumes an imperative part in the 

clothing business. These labors can be classified 

into 3 levels as indicated by their abilities as 

skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled. 

Skilled: They are a worry about complex tasks 

and are given an extraordinary preparing. The 

seriousness and the event of issues amid their 

work is negligible and they are equipped for 

recognizing the flaws effectively. 

Semi-skilled: They are equipped for taking care of 

moderate level of activities. The seriousness and 

event are worth up to a specific level. 

Unskilled: The work falling under this 

classification are less flexible in operational 

abilities. They can perform exceptionally 

essential tasks or else there is an enormous shot 

of serious shortcomings with the high event. 

Identification of shortcomings by them is 

additionally exceptionally troublesome. 

5.2.2 Material 

Material records for 80% of the aggregate cost 

and consequently legitimate choice and 

utilization of this is mandatory. Material 

varieties are extremely visited in the meantime 

they can't be bargained for any reason. Activities 

turn out to be more unpredictable with the 

expansion in the material parts. They are ordered 

as: 

Uniform Material with Standard Components: 

Fundamental plain texture with single shading 

and standard segments, henceforth while sewing 

this sort of material has less serious and less 

happening shortcomings. The recognition for 

this situation is simple since no coordinating of 

example parts is required. 

Different Material with Design variety: Here the 

texture utilized may have a type of prints, 

weaves, hues and so forth so the activity ends up 

complex giving ascent more serious and more 

continuous event of flaws .identification 

additionally turns into somewhat perplexing. 

Raw Material and Design Variations: At the point 

when the plan are worried about utilization of 

various textures, outlines, hues and so forth or 

the mix of them, task turns out to be 

exceptionally mind-boggling and there is each 

shot of extreme and successive deficiencies. 

Discovery and re retouching of this is 

troublesome. 

5.2.3 Method 

Method alludes to the sort of generation stream 

framework utilized as a part of the interesting 

business. It encouraged the property stream of 

material and operational parts all through the 

line with the goal that every one of the activities 

goes delivers hand and increments the 

effectiveness and rate of generation. 

Eton: It encourages an even stream of material 

all through the line wherein the parts are sewed 

without disconnecting from the cinches 

consequently more exact coordinating 

diminishes the incessant event of extreme flaws. 

Identification turns out to be simple since the 

pays are in single anchor and simple to watch 

completely. 

Unit Production framework: It is a framework in 

which a solitary garment is set aside a few 

minutes yet since the section of parts is done 

manually, blames because of loss of part or 

blemished coordinating can be maintained a 

strategic distance from. Manual identification is 

additionally simple for this situation. 

Bundle Production System: Clipping and working 

number of parts together in package shape make 

it troublesome for quality work. There is each 

shot of blending and heaps of parts which may 

cause immense misfortune because of 

continuous flaws. Identification of this package 

isn't simple. 

5.2.4 Machine 

Progressions in innovation are consistent yet the 

cost and accessibility of the machinery must be 

considered which makes it again a variety factor 

levelled by the modernization and effects. 

Fully Automatic: It gives simplicity of working 

expanding the productivity and nature of 

generation with least level of seriousness and 

event of shortcomings. Discovery module makes 

it simple to distinguish the shortcomings 

mechanically assuming any. 

Semi-programmed: These machines have human 

obstruction again giving a shot for every now 

and again happening serious deficiencies. 

34 Volume: xx Issue: xx | Month-Year, www.jtcsonline.com


Table 3 Taguchi L9 Orthogonal Array Design 

Man Material Machine Method SE OC DE 

S UM FA ET 2 1 1 

S DM SA UPS 3 2 2 

S RM M BL 2 2 2 

SS UM SA BL 3 2 2 

SS DM M ET 3 2 2 

SS RM FA UPS 1 1 1 

US UM M UPS 3 3 2 

US DM FA BL 3 3 2 

US RM SA ET 2 2 2 

Manual: Parcel of variety in the delivered 

garments is watched, in addition it requires high 

work. 

81 mixes are conceivable with these 4 unique 

components having 3 levels of each. To rearrange 

the investigation the 9 best mixes were picked by 

Taguchi's orthogonal exhibit (L9) with the 

assistance of Minitab measurable programming. 

After getting the 9 mixes, these were appraised 

for Severity (S), Occurrence (O) and Detection 

(D) as indicated by their levels 1, 2 and 3 (ref. 

table no.3). After getting the information for S, O, 

and D; Taguchi's analysis has been done to 

decide the rankings of various components. 

After distinguishing rank the Regression 

condition for S, O, and D were framed. Using 

these conditions the FMEA forecast model was 

outlined in Excel which is helping in failure 

mode analysis of existing or new clothing units 

for the previously mentioned 4 factors. 

5.3 Regression equations 

SE=2.333+ 0.0 MAN_S+ 0.3333 MAN_SS+ 0.6667 MAN_US+ 

0.0 MATERIAL_DM- 1.667 MATERIAL_RM- 0.3333 MATER 

IAL_UM + 0.0 MACHINE_FA + 0.3333 MACHINE_M 

+ 1.333 MACHINE_M + 0.6667 MACHINE_SA 

OC=1.500+ 0.0 MAN_S+ 0.500 MAN_SS+ 1.500 MAN_US 

+ 0.0 MATERIAL_DM - 1.167 MATERIAL_RM 

- 0.333 MATERIAL_UM + 0.0 MACHINE_FA 

+ 0.167 MACHINE_M + 1.667 MACHINE_M 

+ 0.333 MACHINE_SA 

DE=1.333+ 0.0 MAN_S+ 0.3333 MAN_SS+ 0.6667 MAN_US+ 

0.0 MATERIAL_DM0.6667 MATERIAL_RM- 0.3333 MATER 

IAL_UM + 0.0 MACHINE_FA + 0.3333 MACHINE_M 

+ 1.333 MACHINE_M + 0.6667 MACHINE_SA 

6. Conclusion 

So far we endeavored to abridge the variables in 

Apparel industry which contribute significantly 

to the assessment of deficiencies. The 

fundamental driver, effects, simplicity of 

perceptions and the reasonable major for each 

conceivable failure mode. Our model is a 

procedure particular, is much material for array 

since the items accompany immense contrast in 

texture, design, faster and so forth henceforth 

making this a long procedure. So considering the 

variables influencing each procedure made it 

easy to judge. As opposed to finding the blame 

we made our analysis based on the elements that 

influence these shortcomings straightforwardly 

or in a roundabout way. The range for the 

Severity, Occurrence and Detection record can be 

chosen by the required quality and prioritization 

for the zone of extreme effect cause should be 

possible to take out the happening misfortune. 

As indicated by the necessity of the fundamental 

factors in a procedure each time another table for 

rating and blend is to be outlined. 

7. Reference 

Dr. Gordana Colovic and Dr. Danijela 

Paunovic, Application Quality Methods in 

Garment 

Production, 

www.fibre2fashion.com. 

fmeca.com/fmea-rpn.html. 

Taguchi’s 

method: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taguchi_met 

hods. 

Video tutorial FMEA by Narender Sharma 

https://youtu.be/BZWuUn93Sq4. 

http://www.six-sigmamaterial.com/FMEA.html. 

Volume: xx Issue: xx | Month-Year, www.jtcsonline.com 35

JTCS Volume 1 Issue 1

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?