American World Traveler Spring 2018 Issue

Fado music and looked out from atop of
Sao Jorge Castle to a sea of red-tiled
roofs.
If you should decide to travel to Portugal’s
bewitching capital yourself (and I highly
suggest you do), here are few experiences
you won’t want to miss.
Ride the trams
Lisbon is nicknamed “The City of Seven
Hills”, and they’re steep. Luckily, you can
get around on historic trolleys that have
been operating in the city since the 1930s.
Though they look like they belong in a
museum, the trams are well-suited to the
narrow, steep streets and are an integral
part of the city’s transportation. Route #28
is the most popular and takes you through
many of Lisbon’s highlights. Watch your
valuables though, as pickpockets have
been known to target tourists.
Stroll through Chiado
Our Lisbon apartment, one of Martinhal’s
37 well-equipped family suites, was situated
in the heart of one of the city’s best
neighbourhoods. Chiado is equal part historic
and hip, and its cobbled, narrow
streets are full of squares with statues of
poets and outdoor patios. It’s easy to lose
yourself browsing the many shops selling
everything from antiques and traditional
pottery to chic clothing and specialty foods.
Nearby is the Santa Justa Lift, an ornate
wrought iron public elevator that was built
in 1902, so locals could avoid the tough
walk up the hill that connects the lower
and upper districts. Now it’s mostly tourists
who use it, and there’s almost always a
line up. But it’s worth the wait to see the
stunning view from the top.
Tour the heart of an ancient empire
It’s easy to be unaware of Lisbon’s layer
upon layer of history if you’re just walking
around on your own. Our knowledgeable
and charismatic guide, Joao from
Heritage Tours, brought the city’s history to
life, regaling us with stories about the
Golden Age of Discovery when “King
Manuel who rode elephants on the street
with a parrot on his shoulder, sprinkling
cinnamon and spices.” One of the best
places to appreciate the grandeur and
richness of the empire is at Jerónimos
Monastery. At this architectural marvel,
Joao pointed out the ornate details that
were influenced by the discoveries
Portuguese navigators were making in their
travels around the world. It’s also the final
resting place of Vasco da Gama, the
explorer who discovered the route to India,
and brought wealth and fame to Portugal.
View the city from a hilltop castle
At Castle Sao Jorge, situated high above
the city, we learned more about the
Moorish history of the neighbourhood and
the medieval citadel, as we watched the
resident peacocks strut their stuff on the
castle grounds. But by far, the highlight of
the site was wandering along the stone turrets,
enjoying the panoramic views of historic
Lisbon with its endless red-tiled roofs
and the river as its backdrop.
Wander the alleyways of Alfama
Directly below the castle is one of Lisbon’s
oldest and most historic neighbourhoods.
Alfama is the Moorish heart of the city,
which unlike most of the city survived the
devastating earthquake of 1755. The maze
of cobbled streets and mismatched
dwellings reveal visual treats at every turn,
including photographs of former residents
on the sides of buildings, paying homage
to its past. Though trendier now, it was
once a rougher and poorer district, and
the birthplace of the soulful Fado music.
Bask in the meloncholic chords of
Portugal’s blues
“Quiet, the Fado is about to begin,” is a
refrain heard in many venues throughout
the country before singers croon with the
accompaniment of a traditional 12-string
guitar. Fado means fate, and the wistful
ballads tell of heartbreak, longing and
separation, and of times when sailors left
their loved ones behind, not knowing when
they’d return. At O Faia restaurant, a
classic Lisbon venue, we could feel
the emotion behind the lyrics, despite
not knowing the language. One 81-yearold
Fado star, Anita Guerreiro, had the
crowd wrapped around her little finger as
she threw her head back, and her strong,
throaty lyrics filled the room. Between sets,
we relished delicious, traditional food,
especially enjoying the fresh octopus.
Savour the flavours
Lisboetas, as the city residents are known,
take pride in their food as they should and
there were oh-so- many memorable meals
on our trip. Mercado de Ribeira, now
called the Time Out Market, is the oldest
and largest food market in Lisbon, where
you’ll find dozens of vendors selling
Portuguese fare, international food, snacks,
wine and crafts. It’s also the best place to
sample a Pastéis de Nata. My eyes rolled
back in my head when I tried these heavenly
egg custard tarts, and I loved watching
my travel companions have the same
reaction. The Belem tarts are the most
famous, but according to locals, the ones
at Manteigaria are actually the best.
Portuguese cuisine is appreciated and recognized
more than ever, thanks to chefs
like José de Avillez, owner of several
Lisboa restaurants, including the Bairro do
Avillez, which we had the pleasure of dining
in. Their innovative dishes stay true to
their roots but surprise with their flavours.
The ‘exploding olives’ literally burst in your
mouth, and their variety of seafood and
cheeses are creative and delicious.
If you go:
Flights: Nonstop flights are available on
TAP Portugal from JFK and Newark
www.flytap.com
Accommodations: Martinhal Chiado Family
Suites (read more about these fabulous
properties in our Stay and Play section).
www.visitportugal.com/en
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American World Traveler Spring 2018