American World Traveler Spring 2018 Issue

shells with a pound of smoked brisket and
maybe a half a dozen spinach leaves tossed
in. Not quite the dish I had in mind, but it
was absolutely delicious as was almost every
bite I had in Mobile for the next few days.
Here were the gastronomic highlights:
Dauphin’s
Famous for its coastal cuisine with a creole
twist and scenic view of the Mobile River,
Dauphin’s is an upscale dining experience
that highlights the best the region has to
offer. We feasted on classics like the West
Indies salad, which consists of crabmeat
soaked in oil and vinegar.
“It’s really simple, but it’s really good,” said
Mobilian Tara Zieman. She was right.
“And you’re in Alabama, so you have to try
the fried green tomatoes.”
So we did, and they were divine, served with
Gulf shrimp in remoulade sauce. Also
notable was the Mobile Bay stew (which
blends together local meats and fresh
seafood), pecan encrusted fish and the
gumbo z’herb. Leslie’s Passion, a table-side
flambé of berries and Grand Marnier was a
flamboyant and sweet ending to a meal to
remember.
Spot of Tea
With a name like this, you might imagine a
tearoom with fancy china that serves crumpets,
but this is far from the case. Spot of Tea
is an institution in Mobile, and is known for
its hearty breakfasts, award-winning soups
and the best chicken salad in town. Their signature
dish, Eggs Cathedral, is listed on the
100 Dishes to Eat in Alabama Before You
Die. And it does indeed seem deadly with its
crab cakes, topped with scrambled eggs,
smothered in seafood sauce completely hiding
the English muffin it all sits upon.
“Our most common comment from customers
who order it is it was great, but now
we need a nap!” said Chrissi Moore, general
manager of the family-run restaurant.
Housed in an historic landmark building, the
popular eatery has contributed to the revitalization
of Mobile’s downtown core.
“We’ve grown with it, and they’ve grown with
us,” said Moore, who takes pride in the role
her family has played in the transformation.
LoDa District
The stretch of Lower Dauphin Street, where
Spot of Tea is located, is now hip and happening,
lined with cafés, shops and eateries,
ideal for browsing and munching.
“It’s hard to come down this street and not
eat,” said our guide on the Gulf Coast Ducks
tour, and he started rhyming off his favourite
haunts: Moe’s BBQ, roasted peanuts at A&M
Peanut Company, MoonPie burgers at
Roosters…
Hold on. What was that? Yes, I did say
MoonPies.
In case you don’t know (and I certainly didn’t
before my visit) MoonPies are a packaged
dessert, consisting of marshmallows, wafers
and chocolate (incidentally, they were packaged
in Canada, Australia and the UK as
Wagon Wheels).
MoonPies are a big deal here. Mobilians go
through four million of them a year and are
the official tester of this confection. Three
million are thrown to revellers during Mardi
Gras; and on New Year’s Eve, a giant
MoonPie is lowered as part of the festivities.
To be honest, it’s not my favourite treat, but
the next dessert the guide mentioned definitely
caught my attention.
Beignets
At Panini Pete’s, these classic French fritters
are served with lemons to create a glaze;
and according to many folks, they surpass
those in New Orleans. Unfortunately, I didn’t
get the chance to try them on this trip, but it
gives me a good reason to return to this Gulf
city with its rich history, beautiful nature and
quirky charm. And perhaps if I have a little
extra time, I’ll squeeze in a visit to her cousin
in Louisiana, too.
Where to Stay: Renaissance Mobile
71
Riverview Plaza Hotel features an
unbeatable downtown location, scenic
views, comfortable beds and a wide rage of
amenities, including free Wi-Fi, fitness center
and an outdoor pool.
What to do: Be sure to take the time to visit
the 5 Rivers Delta Center, which is located on
the Mobile-Tensaw River delta, the second
largest river delta system in the continental
United States and less than a 10-minute
drive from downtown. At the interpretive centre,
you can see frogs, turtles and alligators,
and learn about this impressive eco-system
that’s been called the “Amazon of the US”
because of the diversity of its wildlife. Even
better is seeing it in the wild, which we did
when kayaking the Bartram Canoe Trail.
Great Blue Heron, jumping fish (which we
found out are named mullets, like the bad
hair cut) and alligators were just some of the
creatures we spotted on this fascinating and
fun excursion with Wild Native – 5 Rivers
Delta Safaris.
Other worthwhile attractions include the
Bellingrath Gardens and Homes, History
Museum of Mobile and Mobile Museum of
Art.
And more places to eat:
Nominated for a James Beard Award for
best new restaurant, Southern National
prides itself on the modern approach to classic
Southern dishes and craft cocktails.
You know the minute that you walk into the
Callaghan’s Irish Social Club that these walls
have seen some good times. Its cheeseburgers
are also on the infamous 100 Dishes to
Eat in Alabama Before You Die.
And finally, you can’t leave Mobile without a
stop to the Wintzell’s Oyster House.
Opened since 1932, they are famous for
their oysters served “fried, stewed or nude,”
and they also dish up regional favourites,
like gumbo, crab cakes, craw fish, bread
pudding and fried green tomatoes.
www.mobile.org
American World Traveler Spring 2018