Jeweller - May Issue 2018
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
MAY <strong>2018</strong><br />
On trend<br />
THIS YEAR’S FASHION<br />
JEWELLERY STYLES<br />
Hello future<br />
+ +<br />
PRESENTING THE <strong>2018</strong><br />
CAD/CAM REPORT<br />
Hong Kong<br />
HONG KONG JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
REVIEWED IN DEPTH
Seeing is believing<br />
What are you looking for at this year’s International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair?<br />
Rare gems, stunning creations, display ideas, an innovative supplier, that rare product line<br />
or a unique piece from an artisan? You will find it all and more at the fair.<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
August 25 > 27, <strong>2018</strong><br />
ICC Sydney > Exhibition Centre > Darling Harbour<br />
Organised by
WORLD SHINER PTY LTD<br />
Inspired Performance. Year After Year...<br />
WORLD SHINER<br />
World Shiner proudly introduces Argyle Pink Diamonds<br />
NEW SOUTH WALES Suite 301, Level 3, 70 Castlereagh Street, Sydney 2000, P: 02 9232 3557, E: sydney@worldshiner.com<br />
VICTORIA Suite 502, Wales Corner, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne 3000, P: 03 9654 6369, E: melbourne@worldshiner.com<br />
QUEENSLAND Unit 17, Level 11, 138 Albert Street, Brisbane 4000, P: 07 3210 1237 E: brisbane@worldshiner.com<br />
NEW ZEALAND Suite 4K, 47 High Street, Auckland P: 09 358 3443 E: nz@worldshiner.com<br />
WWW.WORLDSHINER.COM<br />
• AUSTRALIA • BELGIUM • CANADA • GERMANY • INDIA • JAPAN • SPAIN • TAIWAN • UNITED KINGDOM • USA • NEW ZEALAND
THIS YEAR’S FASHION<br />
JEWELLERY STYLES<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
PRESENTING THE <strong>2018</strong><br />
CAD/CAM REPORT<br />
MAY <strong>2018</strong><br />
HONG KONG JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
REVIEWED IN DEPTH<br />
CONTENTS<br />
MAY <strong>2018</strong><br />
17/<br />
23/<br />
30/<br />
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />
14/ 100 YEARS<br />
Adelaide family jewellers Archer &<br />
Holland are celebrating a milestone.<br />
17/ TRENDING NOW<br />
Capitalising on this season’s fashion<br />
jewellery offerings.<br />
23/ DIGITAL TOOLBOX<br />
How the industry is embracing<br />
CAD/CAM.<br />
30/ HONG KONG FAIR<br />
The Hong Kong fair was a recordbreaking<br />
success, Angela Han writes.<br />
9/ Editorial<br />
10/ Upfront<br />
12/ News<br />
34/ Gems<br />
Colour investigation: sapphire<br />
41/ MyStore<br />
Be inspired by the most unique<br />
store layouts around.<br />
42/ 10 Years Ago<br />
43/ Calendar<br />
44/ My Bench<br />
46/ Soapbox<br />
We’ve forgotten the customer is<br />
important, Bruce Rosewarne laments.<br />
35/ Business feature<br />
Chris Petersen explains<br />
how to operate in an<br />
omni-channel market.<br />
37/ Selling<br />
Doug Dvorak shares five<br />
ways to succeed in sales.<br />
38/ Management<br />
It’s too easy to lose customers,<br />
Steve DiGioia reports.<br />
39/ Marketing<br />
Rich Kizer and Georganne Bender<br />
share ways to improve customer<br />
service.<br />
40/ Logged On<br />
Melissa Megginson explains<br />
how to crunch the numbers<br />
on Instagram.<br />
On trend<br />
Hello future<br />
+ +<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Front cover description:<br />
Fashion jewellery is as relevant as<br />
ever for younger generations.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5
All that glitters isn’t gold. It’s platinum.<br />
AUSTRALIA WIDE 1300 886 108<br />
palloys.com.au<br />
Sydney | Melbourne | Brisbane | Perth
THE VITAL SOURCE FOR NATURAL FANCY<br />
COGNAC DIAMONDS<br />
Wales Corner<br />
Suite 1204, 227 Collins Street<br />
Melbourne Victoria 3000<br />
Australia<br />
Ph: (03) 9639 1008<br />
Fax: (03) 9639 0179<br />
sales@vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
www.vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
OVER 35 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN DIAMOND MANUFACTURING AND WHOLESALING
Timesupply<br />
watches + jewellery<br />
p +61 (0)8 8221 5580<br />
sales@timesupply.com.au<br />
timesupply.com.au<br />
exclusive distributor AU & NZ
EDITORIAL<br />
THERE’S NOTHING EASY ABOUT E-COMMERCE<br />
Last month I wrote about how SEO<br />
scammers prey on small businesses,<br />
including jewellers. I discussed how you<br />
probably receive emails guaranteeing your<br />
store will appear on the first page of a<br />
Google search, which is obviously claptrap.<br />
If someone searches for your store name<br />
and you don’t appear on page one, you<br />
have far greater problems than SEO!<br />
This month I would like to deal with the<br />
notion that your store should, or must,<br />
have full e-commerce capabilities. You<br />
see, research suggests small retailers are<br />
abandoning the belief that they must excel<br />
at physical (bricks-and-mortar) retailing as<br />
well as online retailing.<br />
I don’t think anyone would doubt that large,<br />
traditional retailers must excel at both–<br />
Myer, David Jones and JB HiFi are a few that<br />
must compete in all channels – but is it<br />
equally important for small jewellers?<br />
Before going any further, all my<br />
observations presuppose that your website<br />
is first rate, conforming to current tends<br />
such as responsive design, where the page<br />
adapts to fit the device in use. Assuming<br />
your website also addresses basic SEO<br />
practices then the issue is whether you<br />
need a fully-fledged e-commerce capability.<br />
This is where things start to get very<br />
expensive.Sure, there are plug and play<br />
options that can be considered but their<br />
advertised costs never reflect the final<br />
cost of full functionality, and once you<br />
have the design done, you will need an<br />
SSL Certificate for credit cards, a payment<br />
gateway or payment provider and, in some<br />
cases, an online merchant bank account.<br />
You’ll also need a shipping company like<br />
Australia Post to deliver your products.<br />
The costs are high so are they all worth it?<br />
Would it be better to invest your time and<br />
money elsewhere?<br />
Well, it comes down to sales. How much<br />
more will you sell by offering e-commerce<br />
to your customers? Do they need such<br />
convenience? <strong>Jeweller</strong>y is generally not<br />
a recurring purchase. Unlike FMCGs,<br />
customers who buy a ring are unlikely to<br />
purchase another online in any short<br />
length of time.<br />
According to the Australian Retailers<br />
Association, online shopping accounts for<br />
around 7 per cent of total retail sales ($285<br />
billion) but this includes services such as<br />
airline tickets, which are basically no longer<br />
done at a store level. When was the last<br />
time you purchased a ticket from a travel<br />
agent to fly interstate?<br />
If online shopping accounts for only 7<br />
per cent of all retail sales, how much of<br />
that is jewellery and watches? And if it’s<br />
an insignificant amount in the scheme<br />
of things, by how much do you need to<br />
increase your store sales to offset the cost of<br />
implementing an e-commerce platform?<br />
Indeed, KPMG research shows that jewellery<br />
purchased online is not as popular as one<br />
would imagine being the 21st on the list<br />
of retail product.<br />
A 2016 UK study by Barclaycard found<br />
RESEARCH<br />
SHOWS THAT<br />
JEWELLERY<br />
PURCHASED<br />
ONLINE IS NOT<br />
AS POPULAR<br />
AS ONE WOULD<br />
IMAGINE BEING<br />
THE 21ST ON<br />
THE LIST<br />
OF RETAIL<br />
PRODUCT<br />
that six in 10 retailers were negatively<br />
impacted by consumers’ propensity to<br />
return unwanted items, while one in<br />
five businesses increased the price of<br />
items to cover the cost of managing and<br />
processing customer returns. The ease<br />
of online shopping and free returns has<br />
fundamentally changed the way people<br />
shop and Barclaycard’s research found that<br />
30 per cent of shoppers deliberately overpurchase<br />
then return unwanted items.<br />
The problem is such that some small<br />
businesses are actively turning away from<br />
online trading. According to Barclaycard’s<br />
research, more than one-fifth (22 per cent)<br />
of bricks-and-mortar retailers choose not to<br />
sell online due to concerns about the costs<br />
of managing deliveries and returns.<br />
I don’t believe that independent jewellers<br />
are doomed if they decline to offer<br />
e-commerce. Quite the opposite, in fact.<br />
If you weigh up the development costs<br />
and the ongoing fees and management to<br />
offer online shopping, the better option for<br />
most stores is to leave it to the big boys.<br />
Go back to basics and focus on good, old<br />
customer interaction, excellent advice and<br />
product knowledge.<br />
The largest indicator that there’s life in<br />
traditional retail is that once online-only<br />
businesses are now opening bricks and<br />
mortar stores.<br />
It’s back to the future, all over again!<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Managing Editor<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9
UPFRONT<br />
“To make the<br />
universe! A<br />
customer had a<br />
set of coloured<br />
diamonds which<br />
I set into a ‘solar<br />
system’ inspired<br />
engagement ring<br />
with a detachable<br />
head.”<br />
What’s the quirkiest request you’ve ever had?<br />
MATT LORETAN, MATT<br />
LORETAN JEWELLERY<br />
BULLETIN BOARD<br />
n DINNER TIME<br />
Mixing dining and retail is making<br />
its mark in the jewellery industry.<br />
After Tiffany & Co opened a café last<br />
year, watch brand IWC followed suit,<br />
becoming the first watchmaker with<br />
its very own bar. Retailers could use<br />
this for inspiration on how to sell<br />
experiences – not just products<br />
– to customers.<br />
n BREATHE IN<br />
Having “fresh, breathable air” is one<br />
way retailers can hold on to their best<br />
employees. According to an article by<br />
Entrepreneur, good indoor air quality<br />
is one of the most important factors<br />
for workers. “This is just one simple<br />
measure businesses can take to help<br />
their [employees] feel and perform<br />
better,” it added.<br />
n THE COFFEE TEST<br />
Marketing writer David Newman<br />
shares with retailers: “Imagine you are<br />
having a cup of coffee with a friend.<br />
Could you read from your website<br />
without having them choke with<br />
laughter or stare in confusion? If the<br />
answer is no, write what you would<br />
feel comfortable saying.”<br />
“A customer<br />
requested for a<br />
ring to be made<br />
from a mould<br />
of a real<br />
McDonalds<br />
french fry, as<br />
they were a big<br />
potato fan.”<br />
DIGITAL<br />
BRAINWAVE<br />
KRISTA BRADLEY,<br />
WINDFALL JEWELLERY<br />
“A 9-carat gold,<br />
cat shaped urn<br />
pendant for a<br />
cat’s ashes. It<br />
had a screw off<br />
top where the<br />
customer could<br />
put the ashes in.”<br />
LOUISE SHAW, LOUISE<br />
SHAW JEWELLERY<br />
INSTASHOP TIL YOU DROP<br />
Instagram’s latest updates have officially landed<br />
down under. Rolled throughout Australia in late<br />
March, Instagram’s ‘shopping’ feature now allows<br />
retailers to directly list products for sale within<br />
their posts. With a capacity to tag up to five products per post – filters and captions are<br />
optional – consumers will see a product description, how much the item costs, and a<br />
link directly to the buyer’s website in order to purchase the item. It’s only a matter of<br />
time before “less transactional, more actionable” modes of shopping change the way<br />
jewellers use this social media juggernaut in the future.<br />
TOP PRODUCT<br />
Pierre Cardin’s new timepiece, distributed<br />
by Instyle Watches, features an opal dial<br />
and a 41 mm round stainless steel case. The<br />
19 mm band is available in stainless steel<br />
mesh or leather. It was the most popular<br />
product last month ranked by views at<br />
jewellermagazine.com.<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN<br />
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
jewellermagazine.com<br />
Editor<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Journalists<br />
Alex Eugene<br />
alex.eugene@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Talia Paz<br />
talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
Gary Collins<br />
gary.collins@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Digital Manager<br />
Angela Han<br />
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Production Manager<br />
& Graphic Design<br />
Jo De Bono<br />
art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Accounts<br />
Paul Blewitt<br />
accounts@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Subscriptions<br />
info@jewellermagazine.com<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />
VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />
ABN 64 930 790 434<br />
Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />
Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />
info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Copyright: All material appearing<br />
in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part is<br />
strictly forbidden without prior written<br />
consent of the publisher.<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />
report accurately and fairly and it is<br />
our policy to correct significant errors<br />
of fact and misleading statements in<br />
the next available issue. All statements<br />
made, although based on information<br />
believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />
the time, cannot be guaranteed and<br />
no fault or liability can be accepted<br />
for error or omission. Any comment<br />
relating to subjective opinions should<br />
be addressed to the editor.<br />
Advertising: The publisher reserves<br />
the right to omit or alter any<br />
advertisement to comply with<br />
Australian law and the advertiser<br />
agrees to indemnify the publisher for<br />
all damages or liabilities arising from<br />
the published material.<br />
10 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
Middle East & Europe: +972.3.575.0011 Far East: +852.2111.2811 America: +1.212.302.0002
NEWS<br />
NEWS<br />
Gold dealer fronts court over robberies<br />
Gold and diamond dealer Alejandro<br />
Mendieta Blanco, who was charged<br />
by Victoria Police with selling stolen<br />
jewellery last year, has faced court on<br />
hundreds of charges.<br />
Along with Julio Mendieta Blanco and Chey<br />
Tenenboim, Mendieta Blanco faced the<br />
Melbourne Magistrates Court on Monday 9<br />
April on 453 separate charges. It was alleged<br />
he and the co-accused had knowingly<br />
received and sold jewellery stolen from a<br />
series of armed robberies.<br />
According to a report by The Age,<br />
Mendieta Blanco has also been charged<br />
with undervaluing customer’s gold and<br />
attempting to “rip off” customers. “In one case,<br />
they classified jewellery as nine carats when it<br />
was worth 14 [carats],” the report stated.<br />
It is understood that next month, the court<br />
will hear testimony from some of the alleged<br />
armed robbers, as well as “civilian witnesses”<br />
who will give evidence on how their jewellery<br />
had been stolen.<br />
As previously reported by <strong>Jeweller</strong>, Mendieta<br />
Blanco has also been implicated in two other<br />
investigations.<br />
In January <strong>2018</strong>, Mendieta Blanco was<br />
ABC earns gold accreditation<br />
Australian independent business ABC<br />
Refinery has recently earned accreditation<br />
on the Shanghai Gold Exchange (SGE),<br />
the official network for all Chinese gold<br />
sales. The award means ABC Refinery – a<br />
division of Pallion – is now one of just seven<br />
international firms with accreditation by<br />
both the London Bullion Market Association<br />
(LBMA) and the SGE.<br />
ALEJANDRO MENDIETA BLANCO (CENTRE)<br />
ordered to pay diamond supplier Australian<br />
Diamond Trading Corporation (ADTC) more<br />
than $200,000. The judgement, which was<br />
handed down by the Supreme Court of<br />
Victoria, stemmed from a 2016 injunction<br />
between the ADTC and diamond dealer<br />
Ronnie Ben-Simon.<br />
In addition, Mendieta Blanco is reportedly<br />
being investigated by the Australian Taxation<br />
Office (ATO) for his alleged participation<br />
in the goods and services tax (GST) fraud<br />
scheme involving the gold bullion and<br />
precious metals industries. The investigation<br />
began after a business activity statement was<br />
submitted for his Sell Your Gold business that<br />
requested a GST refund of approximately $1<br />
million. The three men are expected to face<br />
court again on 7 <strong>May</strong>.<br />
Diamond and opal<br />
awards open now<br />
Diamond Guild Australia (DGA) has<br />
announced its Diamond <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Design Awards will now take place<br />
in August. The biennial awards focus<br />
on designs that incorporate natural<br />
diamonds. As previously reported<br />
by <strong>Jeweller</strong>, they were originally<br />
scheduled for <strong>May</strong>.<br />
“The decision to reschedule our awards<br />
has been taken after learning that there<br />
will not be other jewellery industry<br />
design awards held in <strong>2018</strong>,” DGA<br />
executive officer Melissa James said in<br />
a media statement. “This has allowed us<br />
to revise the timeframe for our awards<br />
to give all participants more time to<br />
prepare their entries. We believe this<br />
will ensure the highest standard of<br />
design and number of entrants.”<br />
The Diamond Guild Awards have<br />
been held biennially since 2005.<br />
The upcoming event will be the<br />
8th competition conducted by the<br />
industry association.<br />
In other local awards news, the<br />
Queensland Boulder Opal Association<br />
has announced entries for its<br />
annual opal jewellery design<br />
awards have opened.<br />
According to the association, the<br />
Queen of Gems International Boulder<br />
Opal <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Design Awards are one<br />
of very few local jewellery competitions<br />
offering cash prizes for the winning<br />
entries. The three categories –<br />
professional jeweller, emerging jeweller<br />
and object design – encourage entrants<br />
to “showcase the modern opal jewel<br />
through limitless creative energies”.<br />
“Taking Australian gold to the world’s largest<br />
physical bullion market is a critical strategic<br />
initiative for ABC Refinery and the Pallion<br />
group,” Phillip Cochineas, managing director<br />
of ABC Refinery said.<br />
“It is also a significant demonstration of the<br />
strong bilateral trade between our respective<br />
countries,” he added.<br />
ABC REFINERY EARNS SGE CREDENTIALS<br />
To secure accreditation for the Shanghai<br />
Gold Exchange, ABC Refinery had to prove<br />
its ‘technical excellence’ and the skills<br />
and commitment of its staff. It is widely<br />
known that SGE takes a firm stance on<br />
gold impurities. Accredited gold must be a<br />
minimum of 99.99 per cent metallic purity.<br />
REVISED DATE FOR DIAMOND GUILD AWARDS<br />
12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
NEWS<br />
JAA accounting investigation continues<br />
IN BRIEF<br />
The Institute of Public Accountants’ (IPA)<br />
investigation into concerns over the<br />
‘audit’ of the JAA’s 2017 Financial<br />
Statements is continuing.<br />
On 18 October 2017, the JAA published<br />
its financial accounts in time for its annual<br />
general meeting; however, among other<br />
errors, five different trading results (losses)<br />
were recorded throughout the report.<br />
The Financial Statements also raised many<br />
other questions. Five days later, the JAA<br />
issued an email blaming the JAA auditors,<br />
stating they “have acknowledged some<br />
typographical errors and are in the process<br />
of rectifying these mistakes and formerly<br />
explaining what has occurred.”<br />
The Independent Auditor’s Review Report<br />
was listed in the contents page, but was not<br />
included to members even though the JAA<br />
recorded an auditing fee of $4,180 at page 15.<br />
At the time there was confusion over which<br />
accounting firm had acted for the JAA and<br />
allegedly made the errors.<br />
A representative of the JAA’s long-term<br />
auditing firm, Barry Mendel Frank & Co (now<br />
Kelly & Partners) told <strong>Jeweller</strong> that although<br />
the firm had completed an Independent<br />
Review – not a formal Audit – for the previous<br />
year (FY16), it had not prepared any 30 June<br />
2017 Financial Statements for JAA members.<br />
It was later established that the JAA had<br />
appointed a new accountant Mr Harminder<br />
(Harry) Grewal, a member of the IPA.<br />
Therefore, it appeared that the “typographical<br />
errors” were his responsibility. Grewal<br />
operates a small Sydney-based practice<br />
called Transition Accounting.<br />
ADDITIONAL REVELATIONS<br />
The Financial Statements were signed-off by<br />
the JAA board, which raised further questions<br />
as to why the glaring errors were not<br />
identified by at least one of the six directors.<br />
In accordance with Australian Charities<br />
and Not-for-profits Commission (ACNC)<br />
requirements, the JAA’s financial reports must<br />
be either ‘audited’ or undergo a ‘independent<br />
review report’ by a suitably qualified,<br />
independent accounting professional.<br />
A second set of Financial Statements<br />
was issued by the JAA on 31 October<br />
rectifying the obvious errors; however,<br />
the report did not “formerly explain”<br />
how the errors had occurred.<br />
That second report also contained an<br />
independent review report signed by Grewal.<br />
However, many of the questions previously<br />
raised surrounding Australian Accounting<br />
Standards (AAS) were not addressed. For<br />
example, the FY17 trading loss (–$131,819)<br />
represented an 850 per cent change when<br />
compared to the previous year’s result<br />
(–$13,878) and the accounts provided a zero<br />
balance for impairment (bad debt provision).<br />
This seemed unusual given that the JAA’s<br />
trade receivables (debtors) had doubled in<br />
the past 12 months from $39,225 in FY16 to<br />
$84,788 and the JAA had recorded a bad debt<br />
figure the previous year.<br />
Brandt confirmed that of $84,788 recorded<br />
in the JAA debtors, $50,000 -$60,000 alone<br />
pertained to just one amount: a legal dispute<br />
with Expertise Events, which had already<br />
been in progress for 6 -12 months.<br />
It’s believed that the IPA’s investigation is<br />
seeking to clarify why that amount was not<br />
identified in the 2017 Financial Statements<br />
and which, if it had, would have placed<br />
the JAA in a negative equity position of<br />
$60,000–$80,000.<br />
Under AAS rules for ‘Impairment and<br />
Uncollectibility of Financial Assets,’ the board<br />
and auditor have an obligation to declare<br />
and record “whether there is any objective<br />
evidence that a financial asset or group of<br />
financial assets is impaired.”<br />
The IPA began its formal investigation late<br />
last year.<br />
A spokesperson for the IPA Compliance<br />
division told <strong>Jeweller</strong> the investigation is still<br />
in progress and cases are typically “completed<br />
within six to nine months, and around<br />
twelve months for matters referred to the IPA<br />
Disciplinary Tribunal.”<br />
JAA president Selwyn Brandt was contacted<br />
for comment but at the time of publication<br />
he had not responded.<br />
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
*<br />
PAYMENT PAIN<br />
The Australian Retailers Association<br />
(ARA) has released a public statement<br />
saying it will push for “payments pain<br />
reduction” for retailers. A submission<br />
to the Productivity Commission (PC)<br />
advocated to reduce the cost of tapand-go<br />
payments, saying the method<br />
accounts for two thirds of card payments<br />
in Australia. “The findings of the PC show<br />
that retail merchants are struggling to<br />
manage the high costs associated with<br />
Australia’s current payments system,”<br />
Russell Zimmerman, executive director<br />
of the ARA said. “As customers expect<br />
retailers to adopt innovative, seamless<br />
and efficient payment options, they are<br />
left with little choice but to bear<br />
the cost burden.”<br />
*<br />
SEIKO JOINS DESIGN EVENT<br />
Watch supplier Seiko has participated<br />
in Milan Design Week for the first time.<br />
Counted as one of the world’s largest<br />
design events, the show drew over<br />
343,000 international visitors in 2017. The<br />
Grand Seiko watch was included in an<br />
exhibition titled ‘The Flow of Time’, which<br />
featured installations by two prominent<br />
Japanese artists.<br />
*<br />
INDIAN SCANDAL CONTINUES<br />
Further allegations have emerged about<br />
the Indian diamantaire who was recently<br />
exposed for large scale financial fraud.<br />
According to a Times of India report,<br />
Nirav Modi also allegedly swapped<br />
rough diamonds for synthetic stones in<br />
internationally exported jewellery. Modi’s<br />
company Modi Firestar Diamonds has<br />
since filed for bankruptcy, and is alleged<br />
to have obtained fraudulent loans from<br />
Punjab National Bank to the value of at<br />
least US$1.8b (AU$2.4b).<br />
*<br />
ONLINE LUXURY<br />
UK-based online retailer Net-a-Porter<br />
has launched a fine jewellery and watch<br />
‘emporium’. The site paired with Cartier<br />
in 2017, and sold a watch valued at<br />
over £113,000 (AU$208,000) on the<br />
first day of offering.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 13
NEWS<br />
Family jeweller celebrates a century<br />
One of Adelaide’s oldest family owned<br />
jewellers is celebrating 100 years in<br />
business, providing a positive example of<br />
longevity in the jewellery industry.<br />
Archer & Holland, which is owned by<br />
Meredith and Bill Whiting, celebrated the<br />
milestone event by having their store name<br />
presented on one of Adelaide’s city trams. It<br />
will be displayed for the next three months<br />
as part of the celebrations.<br />
“The tram is a sentimental piece of history<br />
for all of us at Archer & Holland. We are the<br />
first private business to advertise on an<br />
Adelaide tram,” the Whitings said in a media<br />
statement. “As a family business, we are so<br />
pleased to celebrate this milestone year with<br />
our team and loyal customers. We couldn’t<br />
think of a better way to showcase our history<br />
and in such a significant place.”<br />
The business was founded by Herbert Archer<br />
and Herbert Holland in 1918, and eventually<br />
was taken over by Holland’s daughters in<br />
the 50s. His grandson Bill and wife Meredith<br />
went on to buy Archer & Holland in 1992 –<br />
although it was a rocky road to where<br />
they are now, in the City Cross Arcade,<br />
Rundle Mall.<br />
“Meredith and I took over Archer &<br />
Holland from my parents after surviving the<br />
recession of the late 80s,” Bill told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />
“Our early years in the business were<br />
challenging as we had to build up Archer<br />
& Holland again. The shop had many store<br />
locations over the years, and people had<br />
trouble finding us. We had to build customer<br />
MEREDITH AND BILL WHITING<br />
confidence again and secure our position in<br />
the jewellery market.<br />
“Being a manufacturer brought more<br />
customers to the shop and increased trade<br />
dramatically, as most jewellers used to send<br />
their repairs away. We also started selling<br />
second hand jewellery to the public.”<br />
The jeweller also specialises in unique,<br />
custom designs, including engagement<br />
and wedding rings. “Bill, who has created<br />
stunning pieces of jewellery for over 40<br />
years, manufactures and repairs all pieces in<br />
store,” Meredith added.<br />
‘“We feel proud and lucky that we’ve<br />
been able to succeed, not only as a family<br />
business but also having managed to build<br />
up our loyal client base,” Bill continued. “This<br />
year, we are proud to work with our family<br />
serving our wonderful and loyal customers –<br />
and hope to do so for many years to come.”<br />
“WE FEEL PROUD<br />
AND LUCKY THAT<br />
WE’VE BEEN ABLE<br />
TO SUCCEED,<br />
NOT ONLY<br />
AS A FAMILY<br />
BUSINESS BUT<br />
ALSO HAVING<br />
MANAGED TO<br />
BUILD UP OUR<br />
LOYAL CLIENT<br />
BASE”<br />
Asked if any jewellery pieces stood out<br />
during their 25 years owning the business,<br />
the Whitings both noted an “amazing” ring:<br />
“One of our interstate clients had a custom<br />
made here in Adelaide – a 3.05-carat white<br />
diamond. It took over 40 hours to design and<br />
craft. The ring was valued at $150,000.”<br />
The Archer & Holland tram will travel along<br />
Adelaide’s Hindmarsh– Glenelg line until<br />
June <strong>2018</strong>. i<br />
14 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
RETAIL<br />
ARA<br />
SALES AND SERVICE: THE FIBRE OF AUSTRALIAN RETAIL<br />
Sales and service have always been the<br />
backbone of retail. But as technology,<br />
the economy, the environment and social<br />
awareness change, so too must retailers<br />
and consumers. RUSSELL ZIMMERMAN<br />
explains how to keep up.<br />
Business terms like connection, relationship<br />
building, consumer loyalty and customer<br />
experience are increasingly used to express<br />
the new ways retailers and consumers<br />
interact. Customers now have immediate<br />
access to information about price and<br />
competition, which is changing the way<br />
traditional retailers operate.<br />
The ability to comment on social media is<br />
challenging retailers who have low customer<br />
service standards. This is great news for brands<br />
with a commitment to customer service,<br />
and retailers who offer a unique product,<br />
but unfortunate news for others. The trading<br />
environment may be rough, but there is a real<br />
opportunity for dynamic businesses to thrive<br />
in the new world of retail.<br />
BE CUSTOMER-CENTRIC<br />
In today’s retail environment, being customercentric<br />
is all about having an underlying<br />
commitment to placing the customer’s<br />
interest at the centre of every business<br />
decision. The classic saying ‘the customer<br />
is king’ is now more relevant than ever. But<br />
rather than signaling the death of retail, this<br />
attitude creates an opportunity for retailers<br />
to tailor their offering and provide value that<br />
goes deeper than the product itself.<br />
Retailers need to become smarter about how<br />
they connect with, and appeal to their desired<br />
customers. There is no better time than now<br />
to be a retail customer because there is so<br />
BEING<br />
CUSTOMER-<br />
CENTRIC IS ALL<br />
ABOUT HAVING<br />
AN UNDERLYING<br />
COMMITMENT<br />
TO PLACING THE<br />
CUSTOMER’S<br />
INTEREST AT<br />
THE CENTRE OF<br />
EVERY BUSINESS<br />
DECISION<br />
much choice. Using technology, consumers<br />
are able to globally source, price and<br />
purchase products from the comfort of their<br />
living room, or in-store via their smartphone.<br />
Retailers both large and small benefit from<br />
paying close attention to how they develop<br />
their sales and service strategies, because in<br />
modern retail, the success of their business<br />
depends on it.<br />
STAFF ARE THE SPIRIT OF RETAIL<br />
The spirit of retail lies with its staff, as<br />
salespeople are essential to the growth and<br />
sustainability of the retail industry. How staff<br />
approach, interact with, learn about, and<br />
introduce their product to customers is a<br />
strong part of the business, and every effort<br />
made to resolve customer expectations or<br />
complaints are an investment.<br />
When customers measure the performance<br />
of a retailer, brand or store, a different set<br />
of rules apply. Each customer varies, and<br />
they may have differing expectations for<br />
certain retailers. However, there are several<br />
consistencies in how they decide whether a<br />
retail experience was to their liking or not.<br />
Ultimately the aim of great sales people is<br />
to develop long-term relationships, which<br />
provide an opportunity for future sales.<br />
INVEST IN A SUPERIOR WORKFORCE<br />
With great service being the key to retail<br />
success, it’s important to take a close look<br />
at the recruitment process. Employment,<br />
training and staff development all<br />
contribute to business growth and<br />
sustainability. Investing in superior retail staff<br />
not only instills a strong service culture, but<br />
it also gives staff an opportunity to grow.<br />
HERE TO HELP<br />
The Australian Retailers Association (ARA)<br />
assists retailers to enhance the staff<br />
development process, transforming retail<br />
from a stepping-stone industry to a longterm<br />
and fulfilling career.<br />
Their training department provides<br />
employment training solutions, which<br />
include Retail Buying, Visual Merchandising,<br />
Financials, Marketing, Operations, and Sales<br />
and Service Strategy.<br />
The ARA also promotes and protects<br />
employer interests. As Australia’s largest<br />
retail peak body industry, the ARA is a strong<br />
pro-active advocate for Australian retail.<br />
The ARA works to ensure retail success by<br />
informing, protecting, advocating, educating<br />
and saving money for its small, medium and<br />
large members. i<br />
RUSSELL ZIMMERMAN is<br />
is the executive director<br />
of the Australian Retailers<br />
Association (ARA).<br />
Email: info@retail.org.au<br />
The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) is the largest association representing the country’s<br />
$310 billion retail sector, which employs more than 1.2 million people. Providing expert advice<br />
across multiple disciplines including leasing and wage rates, the ARA’s mission is to ensure<br />
retail success by informing, protecting, advocating, educating and saving money for members.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 15
The Original customisable jewellery with interchangeable colours<br />
Mother’s Day<br />
Collection<br />
lesgeorgettes.com - Trademark, registered designs and patents pending - Copyright © <strong>2018</strong> Altesse<br />
An original creation by Altesse Paris<br />
Made in France<br />
contactaus@lesgeorgettes.com - #lesgeorgettes_byaltesse - +61 (0)2 8998 1900
FASHION JEWELLERY<br />
Perfectly<br />
imperfect<br />
TREND SETTERS ALL OVER THE<br />
GLOBE HAVE SPOKEN: DAINTY,<br />
‘IMPERFECT’ STYLES ARE SHAPING<br />
THIS SEASON’S FASHION<br />
JEWELLERY SCENE. TALIA PAZ<br />
DETAILS HOW RETAILERS CAN MAKE<br />
THE MOST OF THESE OFFERINGS.<br />
ewellery retailers appreciate how fickle fashion can<br />
be – bold statement pieces make way for minimalist,<br />
subtle styles faster than one can put together a window<br />
display for an upcoming season.<br />
This season’s hottest pieces are inspired by fine art,<br />
nature and life’s ‘imperfections’, a sharp contrast to the delicate<br />
aesthetic that has characterised the fashion jewellery landscape<br />
these last few years.<br />
What does this mean exactly? Think mismatched earrings, organic<br />
and sculptural necklaces, bracelets and rings that resemble<br />
molten metal, and whimsical designs inspired by nature.<br />
“Fashion has a recent preoccupation with all things imperfect<br />
– ugly footwear, unisex styles, asymmetrical hems, and<br />
mismatched prints,” Kimberly Ong wrote for renowned fashion<br />
magazine Harpers Bazaar in a March <strong>2018</strong> article. “Fashion has<br />
now embraced [this trend] in all its imperfect glory, and we’re<br />
certain it’s here to stay.”<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 17
®<br />
TONES & SILVER<br />
WHOLESALERS OF QUALITY JEWELLERY<br />
LES GEORGETTES HIPP CARLY PAIKER<br />
Showroom – Braeside VIC<br />
Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />
Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au<br />
TREND ME HAPPY<br />
Fashion has long been about wearing statement<br />
pieces that catch the eye; however, this season<br />
the trend has extended to wearing ‘extra-special’<br />
designs that stand out even more. Local designer<br />
Carly Paiker, whose collections range from<br />
stocking “very chunky” statement pieces to ultrafine<br />
delicate pendants and rings, explains further.<br />
“For the remainder of <strong>2018</strong>, ear lobes will<br />
continue to demand attention, with statement<br />
earrings being the focus,” Paiker says. “This means<br />
arty, mixed materials, mismatched and with a<br />
handmade feel. There is also an underwater theme<br />
coming through with irregular pearls, beaten<br />
metals in gold metal tones – think pirate’s treasure,<br />
lost ancient coins and a mermaid’s jewel box.”<br />
Such earrings can be worn as a pair or individually<br />
for an “electric take on asymmetry,” Anna Lapalca, a<br />
journalist at Who What Wear, rightfully notes.<br />
Cheryle Roberts, managing director of supplier<br />
Stones & Silver, adds that pearl and turquoise styles<br />
are also having a serious moment. “Our clients are<br />
loving the two tones of silver and rose gold, so we<br />
are always looking for trends with these metals,”<br />
Roberts says. “Black rhodium is always popular in<br />
winter too – fashion tends to focus on greys and<br />
blacks in winter, and black goes with everything.”<br />
According to Debbie Faraday, creative director of<br />
Pernille Corydon <strong>Jeweller</strong>y distributor Hipp, there<br />
has also been a strong shift back to yellow gold:<br />
“Feminine, sophisticated and well-priced pieces<br />
are the focus here.”<br />
Charlotte Blakeney agrees with these sentiments.<br />
The local designer, whose business By Charlotte<br />
counts Miranda Kerr and Elle Macpherson as<br />
customers, says pendant necklaces, statement<br />
hoop earrings and signet rings are also key trends<br />
shaping this season’s fashion jewellery scene.<br />
“This year has also seen a move towards spiritual<br />
and personalised jewellery. In particular, we’re<br />
seeing a push for birth stones and zodiac-themed<br />
pieces,” she adds.<br />
A recent Marie Claire article also offers some<br />
worthy insights into the latest trends: “Perhaps<br />
as an antidote to our troubled times, fashion has<br />
taken a turn for the contemplative, looking to<br />
nature as a source of inspiration and designing<br />
in ways that promote harmony rather than hate.<br />
The trick lies in artfully layering pieces of varying<br />
lengths, mixing metals and shapes for an organic,<br />
effortless effect.”<br />
The trend of customising one’s own jewellery also<br />
remains strong, according to Les Georgettes’ vice<br />
president Frederic Brunel-Acquaviva.<br />
“There’s an increasing demand for promoting<br />
your own personal sense of style, which is where<br />
personalisation of fashion jewellery comes into<br />
play,” Brunel-Acquaviva says. “This can never go<br />
out of fashion as it is unique to the individual. It’s<br />
therefore important for retailers to capitalise on<br />
this trend.”<br />
Ken Abbott, managing director of supplier<br />
Timesupply, adds his own thoughts on<br />
the popularity of customisable jewellery.<br />
“Personalisation and strong design are very<br />
important – this is what drives the value<br />
proposition for the customer, rather than the use<br />
of precious metals or stones,” he says.<br />
SLAYING THE GAME<br />
Retailers are expected to keep up with – even stay<br />
ahead of – seasonal fashion jewellery trends. This is<br />
where using multiple sources comes in handy.<br />
Global trend forecasting service WGSN, which<br />
supplies market intelligence to the jewellery<br />
industry, publishes forecasting reports throughout<br />
the year. Some relevant examples for jewellers<br />
include ‘Top jewellery Instagrams that inspire’ and<br />
‘Top 5 wedding jewellery Pinterest accounts.’
FASHION JEWELLERY<br />
Supplier Najo’s managing director Jo Tory believes<br />
another way retailers can keep up with seasonal<br />
trends is to continuously review the local and<br />
international fashion scene.<br />
“Like all trends, the jewellery industry mirrors what<br />
is happening with fashion. Styles on the runways<br />
trickle down into social media, celebs, stylists and<br />
publications, and become pedestrian,” Tory explains.<br />
As well as reviewing fashion runways, retailers can<br />
also benefit from paying attention to trends in<br />
other locations. “I would suggest being on trend<br />
is more valuable than being ahead of the trend,”<br />
Abbott says. “Look towards Europe for a feel of what<br />
is trending and the UK for what is selling through.”<br />
Of course, in today’s image-obsessed world, where<br />
celebrities and fashion ‘it girls’ are heavily revered<br />
for their style, social media plays heavily into how<br />
retailers can keep up with the latest trends.<br />
Displays that dazzle<br />
What advice can you offer retailers regarding<br />
merchandising and window displays?<br />
<<br />
“How product is displayed is the very first and<br />
important part of the selling process – be<br />
creative; do things differently, don’t look like the<br />
jewellery shop down the road. Try and tell a story<br />
with your display by using props to capture the<br />
attention of window shoppers – it works.”<br />
Helen Thomspon-Carter, Fabuleux Vous<br />
“It’s all about getting the balance right – eye-catching ><br />
enough to grab somebody’s attention without displays<br />
being too overcrowded with products. Suppliers need<br />
to provide full merchandising offers to match jewellery,<br />
which is very important for any brand’s image. Everything,<br />
from the packaging to the stands, should be coordinated<br />
to show the variety of possibilities and colours on offer,<br />
providing the consumer with a full experience.”<br />
Frederic Brunel-Acquaviva, Les Georgettes<br />
<<br />
“Look at the big successful brands that have tried<br />
and proven POS merchandising guidelines for<br />
inspiration; they make creating in-store displays<br />
very easy.” Ken Abbott, Timesupply<br />
“Displays that have imagery and branding<br />
will help bring the pieces to life and add<br />
context to what can otherwise look messy.”<br />
Debbie Faraday, Hipp<br />
>
This season’s<br />
“Our number one item currently being sold<br />
is a classic drop earring with a rose gold ball.<br />
However, our sterling silver bangles and rings<br />
that are combined with brass, copper and<br />
gemstones will also continue to be sought<br />
after.” Cheryle Roberts, Stones & Silver<br />
“Our Seafaring hoops are currently<br />
the number one item. Inspired by<br />
ancient underwater treasures, with<br />
their irregular finish creating a drastic<br />
sparkle, they steal the show!”<br />
Carly Paiker, Carly Paiker<br />
“All the items from our Lacey range.<br />
They’re different, very on trend, well made<br />
and exceptionally well-priced. Pieces<br />
come in different shapes and already<br />
have proven to be best sellers.” Helen<br />
Thomspon-Carter, Fabuleux Vous<br />
“After the success of our ring and necklace collections<br />
last year, this season we’re introducing our debut<br />
collection of customisable earrings. Our concept<br />
remains the same as with our bracelets; choose your<br />
earring design, size and finish and combine this with<br />
a pair of interchangeable, reversible colours, which<br />
can be transformed time and time again”. Frederic<br />
Brunel-Acquaviva, Les Georgettes<br />
“Choosing one item is hard! But if I had<br />
to, I would choose the Eternal Harmony<br />
Necklace, which is the standout statement<br />
piece from my upcoming collection<br />
‘Awaken’. The inspiration behind this piece is<br />
travel – I love learning about new<br />
cultures and exploring spiritually.”<br />
Charlotte Blakeney, By Charlotte
Silver Fusion<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
FABULEUX<br />
VOUS<br />
“Today, social media plays a huge role in<br />
influencing consumer’s choices in just about<br />
everything, and fashion jewellery is no exception<br />
to this,” Bruenel-Acquaviva says. He adds that<br />
many big jewellery names have shifted to creating<br />
“influencer marketing strategies”.<br />
Helen Thompson-Carter, director of supplier<br />
Fabuleux Vous agrees: “Social influencers on<br />
social media definitely influence consumer’s<br />
fashion jewellery choices. Retailers need to<br />
[capitalise on this by] following fashion bloggers<br />
and trends online.”<br />
As well as using social media to stay on top of<br />
trends – “Instagram is still the best way to see<br />
the trends, both local and overseas,” Faraday<br />
declares – the platform can be used to filter<br />
trends down to consumers.<br />
“Instagram is an open market where anyone can<br />
be involved, from hobby businesses to the couture<br />
brands we find on the Paris runway,” Paiker explains.<br />
“It is a melting pot of creativity and has a driving<br />
influence on our customers’ purchasing decisions.”<br />
Instagram influencers have also had a profound<br />
impact on consumer buying habits, Blakeney<br />
notes. “The younger generation of shoppers are<br />
now in tune with global fashion trends more<br />
than ever, noting what and who their role models<br />
are wearing,” she says. “Social media has become<br />
incredibly important as it heightens our consumer<br />
communication and engagement – we are able to<br />
tap into the wants and needs of today’s customers<br />
in relevant time.”<br />
Although there is a strong emphasis on using social<br />
media platforms to dictate, observe and inform<br />
retailers and consumers on up-and-coming trends,<br />
many suppliers agree it’s not the only strategy that<br />
should be used.<br />
“We strive to keep our retailers informed about<br />
new season pieces ahead of official launch dates<br />
through newsletters<br />
that introduce<br />
new trends<br />
and designs,<br />
along with a<br />
link to download<br />
sales kits and order<br />
forms,” Bruenel-Acquaviva<br />
explains.<br />
“Many also forget the power of<br />
consumer magazines. It is still a very relevant form<br />
of marketing, whether it be in print form or online.”<br />
Thompson-Carter is of the same mind. “Retailers<br />
should also be following fashion jewellery trends<br />
in print media – essentially, fashion magazines,”<br />
she says. “They should also note that the styles of<br />
the royal family – Kate and Meghan – are also very<br />
influential right now.”<br />
However, it’s not just famous people influencing<br />
consumer’s choices, Faraday says. “Friends with<br />
great taste can be quite inspirational within their<br />
social circle,” she adds.<br />
At the end of the day, consumers really are spoilt<br />
for choice when it comes to fashion jewellery.<br />
With so much competition, how can retailers<br />
stand out from the pack? Faraday offers some final<br />
words of advice.<br />
“Offer a variety of ‘point-of-difference ranges’ with<br />
beautiful packaging and appealing POS displays,”<br />
she recommends. “Retailers should think outside<br />
the square and offer their customers something<br />
different, unexpected and refreshing. This will<br />
encourage repeat business and make their<br />
store a destination.”<br />
The ever-popular fashion jewellery landscape will<br />
continue to evolve; however, by combining simple<br />
strategies with the right on-trend stock, retailers<br />
can be sure that customers will be more than<br />
satisfied this season. i<br />
Stunning European 925 sterling silver<br />
jewellery now available in Australia & NZ<br />
Norwegian<br />
Children’s<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Tahitian Pearls<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
South Sea cultured black<br />
pearls from the pristine<br />
waters of Tahiti<br />
STONES & SILVER NAJO COEUR DE LION<br />
no minimum orders or online sales<br />
vibekehenriksen@hotmail.com<br />
0411 725 740<br />
119 Kiera Street, Wollongong NSW 2500
CAD/CAM<br />
EVOTECH PACIFIC<br />
Modern-day<br />
AS TECHNOLOGY IMPROVES AND BECOMES MORE<br />
ACCESSIBLE, CAD/CAM HEADS CLOSER TO BECOMING PART<br />
OF EVERY JEWELLER’S TOOLBOX. ALEX EUGENE REPORTS.<br />
f you think it’s tough being a retail jeweller today, spare a thought for Pierre<br />
Bézier. A pioneer of CAD software, the French engineer did some of his<br />
most important work in a prisoner of war camp in 1940s Germany. Bézier’s<br />
ground-breaking research – originally for the car industry – went on to be<br />
adapted in everything from space travel to dentistry. Today, computeraided<br />
design and computer-aided manufacturing, commonly known as CAD/<br />
CAM, is no longer confined to science and industrial applications; it’s also<br />
becoming synonymous with jewellery design.<br />
TIMES ARE A-CHANGIN’<br />
It wasn’t long ago that jewellers saw CAD/CAM as a threat to business or, as<br />
Chris Hill, 3D product manager at supplier LST Group puts it, “A jeweller’s dirty<br />
little secret.” Today, the cutting-edge software and manufacturing technology is<br />
recognised as the perfect complement to a jeweller’s bench top.<br />
“CAD/CAM is at the forefront of a successful business,” Hill says. “Today, the trend<br />
is to bring the CAD software out front to engage with the customer and offer<br />
3D-printed plastic models for a trial fit.”<br />
Trevor Sim, director of Clayfield <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, has been doing just that. “Clients these<br />
days are savvy; they love to embrace the technology and interact in the design<br />
process. The sales increase has also been unforeseen,” Sim says.<br />
Ben Farago is production manager at manufacturing company Rapid Casting.<br />
He says jewellers now want in-house CAD/CAM tools.<br />
“As more jewellers are exposed to CAD/CAM, they know when a project would<br />
benefit from it,” Farago explains, adding, “It’s now quite common to have a lowcost<br />
3D printer in small workshops.”<br />
One of the best ways to combine technology with craftsmanship is by making<br />
component pieces, according to Grant George, operations manager at metal<br />
refiner and supplier Morris & Watson.<br />
“A jeweller will use castings to do three or four settings separate of the shank,<br />
then put it together with a laser welder,” George says. “No solders required, and<br />
you’ve got a top-class product that looks 100 per cent handmade – it’s almost<br />
impossible to tell because it’s so well done.”<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 23
Remember when you were a<br />
kid, and everyone said;<br />
“In the future,<br />
you’ll be able to do almost<br />
anything with a computer”<br />
and<br />
“every kid will have a<br />
hover board”<br />
MORRIS & WATSON<br />
I guess 1 out of 2 aint bad<br />
Jason Tran, CAM team leader at Pallion agrees that the popularity<br />
of ‘component design’ is on the rise: “With CAD/CAM, the shank can<br />
now be drawn and printed to minimise loss, while still allowing for the<br />
setting to be handmade.”<br />
This is particularly important as consumers still prefer handmade<br />
jewellery, according to Darren Sher, director of casting and refining<br />
house Chemgold.<br />
“Handmade jewellery is still going strong as our stock gauge and<br />
solder sales have increased,” Sher says. “It’s fantastic to see traditional<br />
bench and new technology being used side by side.”<br />
Another reason why jewellers are embracing the technology is to help<br />
them compete against the flood of generic, mass-produced goods in<br />
chain stores.<br />
Stapleton <strong>Jeweller</strong>s is a second generation, family-owned jewellery<br />
store that has been in business since 1972.<br />
John Stapleton says that CAD/CAM has helped them to “thrive and<br />
survive in these changing times”. “As a small jewellery retailer in a<br />
shopping centre, we are able to profitably take on work that others<br />
show no interest in,” Stapleton explains.<br />
Hill agrees, adding, “A good jewellery-specific CAD software and inhouse<br />
3D printer enables the jeweller to deliver something unique.<br />
They can quickly generate interest on new designs through social<br />
media, adapt to trending fashions and lower overheads with less stock,<br />
all at a competitive price with enough margin to make it worthwhile,”<br />
he says.<br />
TECHNOLOGY IMPROVEMENTS<br />
Like all technology, CAD/CAM is always improving. As CAD software<br />
becomes easier to use, it attracts more jewellers willing to learn it.<br />
“The price of these technologies plus wait times and print costs have<br />
all reduced,” Tran says. “This has opened the technology up to those<br />
that may have shied away in the past.”<br />
Perhaps ironically, CAD/CAM has helped bring manufacturing back<br />
home to Australian soil.<br />
Phone: 1300 926 296
CAD/CAM<br />
The computer automation reduces the need for outsourcing labour.<br />
“Labour is very expensive here, so CAD/CAM has been a great help for jewellers<br />
to achieve more with fewer resources,” Sher explains, adding, “They can get extra<br />
assistance without increased staff or inventory costs.”<br />
Stapleton agrees: “Turnover is quicker and faster than if we were outsourcing<br />
overseas. Customers like to wear original jewellery and are proud to recommend<br />
where it came from.”<br />
Stapleton says he often purchases non-standard-sized, coloured stones because<br />
they are more affordable. This means jewellery pieces need to be adjusted<br />
for the stone size, which is easy with software. “We use CAD to easily re-size a<br />
setting, fitting in with our current designs,” he explains.<br />
Clayfield <strong>Jeweller</strong>y has also saved time with CAD/CAM. “If a client’s engagement<br />
ring requires a contour fit, we have the ability to import a 3D scan of the piece,”<br />
Sim says. “Instead of spending hours recreating that ring in Matrix to then design<br />
the wedder around it, the ring is in the software in 10 to 15 minutes– a saving of<br />
many hours at the computer, and ultimately a saving of dollars for the client.”<br />
Hill says 3D printers have been a “game changer” for many jewellers, particularly<br />
the Form 2 model from Formlabs. “It can print as many as 50 rings at a time or<br />
larger pieces like bangles, necklaces, brooches and watch cases – the cost of a<br />
ring can be as little as 10 cents in material,” Hill asserts, adding, “Standard resins<br />
can be used to prototype and test designs or offer a trial fitting so clients can<br />
LST GROUP<br />
buy with confidence. The Form 2’s precision produces a better surface finish,<br />
resulting in less polishing and metal loss.”<br />
Suppliers agree that demand for 3D printers is steadily increasing, thanks to<br />
affordability. “Improvements in 3D-printing technology mean there are more<br />
low-cost 3D printers on the market,” Farago confirms. “Due to the increased<br />
reliability and user friendliness of these machines, jewellers are seeing it as an<br />
effective tool to take control of their manufacture and keep it in house.”<br />
Anthony Nowlan, director of jewellery technology company Evotech Pacific, says<br />
there’s plenty to be excited about in the software realm.
PALLION<br />
Suppliers<br />
What will CAD/CAM look like in 2022?<br />
“I think we’ll see a decrease in rapid prototyping, in<br />
exchange for rapid manufacturing. Direct to metal<br />
manufacturing is not only advancing to create higher<br />
resolution pieces quicker than before, but is also falling<br />
in price.” - Anthony Nowlan, Evotechpacific<br />
“Sooner or later casting will be gone, and we’ll just be<br />
printing directly. I imagine going forward there will be<br />
a big choice of design libraries too.”<br />
- Grant George, Morris & Watson<br />
“To remain competitive, many jewellers will need to embrace<br />
CAD/CAM by outsourcing the design aspect to companies<br />
like Chemgold, or learn to use the software themselves. Direct<br />
metal printing could also be an option by 2022 if it becomes<br />
economically viable.” - Darren Sher, Chemgold<br />
“Direct metal printing will be the norm. Designs will be<br />
realised in shorter lead times, and creations will be made<br />
available digitally to the client, who will then be able to<br />
wear the piece through virtual reality before proceeding<br />
with the make.” - Jason Tran, Pallion<br />
“There are no real limits to what might be achieved with<br />
CAD/CAM in the future. By 2022, there will probably be<br />
commercially viable, high-resolution direct-to-preciousmetal<br />
3D printing.” - Ben Farago, Rapid Casting<br />
“By 2022 we will see a very different landscape of brands<br />
in the 3D printing market. There is huge investment in<br />
research and development in the race to deliver new 3D print<br />
advancements, at a fraction of the original cost.”<br />
- Chris Hill, LST Group
CAD/CAM<br />
“The Matrix V9 software has introduced new tooling, which assists<br />
in quicker design times without compromising on quality,” Nowlan<br />
begins. “Counter Sketch International software is regularly updated<br />
with improvements and new pieces to its libraries, and ZBrush has<br />
just released its <strong>2018</strong> upgrade, which I believe is more intuitive<br />
than before. It also contains powerful tooling for digital sculpture.”<br />
THE POWER OF BESPOKE<br />
It’s not just software and printer prices that have improved;<br />
jewellers’ creative talents have also gained an edge with CAD/CAM.<br />
“Having CAD/CAM can really set the smaller independents apart<br />
from the chains who can’t provide the specialised service,” Sher says.<br />
Such exciting possibilities have helped jewellers regain their creative<br />
mojo, according to Hill.<br />
“3Design CAD software and Formlabs 3D printers have reignited the<br />
passion to create beautiful, quality pieces,” he says.<br />
Stapleton relates a recent success story when he helped a client<br />
create a piece with “her memories and her own gold”. Using CAD<br />
software, he re-modelled three old diamond rings into one. “We were<br />
able to email her the renderings, then reproduce the model in resin<br />
with a 3D printer before handmaking the final ring,” he explains.<br />
Farago believes CAD/CAM has helped boost retailer confidence and,<br />
subsequently, success. “Some of our CAD/CAM customers have<br />
produced award-winning work at the national and international<br />
level,” he notes. “The great thing with CAD is the more someone uses<br />
it, the better they get at it. As they become more confident, their<br />
designs become more interesting and elaborate. We see customers<br />
improve their design work and develop a distinct style as their<br />
confidence grows.”<br />
Tran is another supplier to attest to “truly extraordinary” client<br />
designs. “Men’s rings in particular are just jaw-dropping in their<br />
creativity and individualism,” he says. “Not because an artisan<br />
jeweller could not have made them previously, but because they<br />
now have a greater palette of design and production options<br />
available to them.”<br />
Nowlan says his clients are mostly small businesses who use CAD<br />
not just for custom makes but also for ‘bread and butter’ pieces.<br />
“The type of pieces that might take a few hours on the bench to<br />
make but only a fraction of that time in Matrix or CSI,” he explains.<br />
Sher gives a practical<br />
example: “An<br />
elaborate design<br />
that may take eight<br />
hours by hand could<br />
potentially be drawn<br />
in half the time using<br />
CAD, and you also<br />
have no excess metal.<br />
Finally, the design<br />
and model may be duplicated<br />
whenever required.”<br />
EVOTECH PACIFIC
LST GROUP<br />
MATCHED PAIRS<br />
Retailers<br />
How has CAD/CAM improved business?<br />
“CAD/CAM has allowed the business to thrive and<br />
survive in these changing times. Making earrings with<br />
CAD is fantastic, as one earring is mostly a reverse of the<br />
other. Hand making them is so time [and cost] consuming.<br />
Sales turnover is quicker and faster than if we were<br />
outsourcing overseas, because of price alone.”<br />
- John Stapleton, Stapleton <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
“CAD is the single biggest thing that has enabled us<br />
to grow our business. Along with 3D printing and 3D<br />
scanning– which is all done in-house– we are able to offer<br />
the client a full design suite. With the help of CAD and other<br />
technology we remove the doubt in a client’s mind prior to<br />
manufacture, by offering the desired design in real life.”<br />
- Trevor Sim, Clayfield <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
E pink@samsgroup.com.au<br />
W samsgroup.com.au<br />
P 02 9290 2199<br />
TIPS FOR SUCCESS<br />
Can automation ever completely replace the<br />
human touch? Farago says that realistically,<br />
the power of machines still have certain<br />
restrictions.<br />
“People think it’s as easy as turning on a<br />
printer and pressing print but there’s a lot<br />
of trial and error to get CAD/CAM to work<br />
effectively. If bureaus or jewellers aren’t<br />
willing to put the time in, the results will<br />
show in the end product,” he warns.<br />
On the flip side, being too good at CAD can<br />
create problems too.<br />
“It’s quite easy to draw something that would<br />
be impossible to cast,” George explains,<br />
adding that he has seen designs come to<br />
Morris & Watson with features far too delicate,<br />
that would snap off a physical mould.<br />
According to Tran, the solution is to work<br />
closely with the experts: “How a piece is<br />
drawn will directly influence how successfully<br />
it will cast. The key is to work alongside your<br />
casting provider as they are best placed to<br />
advise on technical aspects of the design and<br />
draw process – some designs may be better<br />
suited to printing in wax than resin.”<br />
Nowlan cautions jewellers to avoid cutting<br />
corners when investing in CAD/CAM, putting<br />
it succinctly: “just like diamonds, you get<br />
what you pay for.”<br />
“You can design jewellery in any CAD<br />
software but going the cheapest route is not<br />
always the wisest financial decision; software<br />
such as Matrix or CSI have been designed<br />
with the jeweller in mind,” he explains.<br />
However, Sher assures that any jeweller<br />
can eventually graduate to independent<br />
CAD/CAM work if they want to: “Once the<br />
customer is comfortable with the design<br />
process and is doing more volume, we<br />
would recommend they consider<br />
purchasing the CAD software<br />
themselves.<br />
We would happily provide guidance on<br />
the best software for the customer based<br />
on their budget and needs.”
CAD/CAM<br />
CAD/CAM<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Design<br />
and Wax Printing<br />
CHEMGOLD<br />
TO INFINITY AND BEYOND<br />
The future is bright for CAD/CAM – and for jewellers who stay on<br />
board with this innovative technology.<br />
As Hill points out, other industries are already demonstrating what’s<br />
ahead, and it’s good news. “CAD technology in other markets has<br />
witnessed huge changes over the past few years,” he says. “The change<br />
is not in the products themselves but in how they are delivered, which<br />
has made them far more accessible. The major players developing<br />
CAD solutions for jewellers will inevitably be going down this path.”<br />
Evotech Pacific offers CAD/CAM training for jewellers. In addition, the<br />
company is about to launch an online marketplace that will provide a<br />
range of services, including interacting with bidders for manufacturing<br />
jobs. “<strong>Jeweller</strong>s who perhaps don’t have their own CAD software or<br />
are more comfortable using a service bureau can sign up and upload<br />
sketches along with descriptions,” Nowlan says of the website. “This<br />
information is shared with every designer in the marketplace, who will<br />
be able to provide a quote for the job.”<br />
Chemgold’s library of classic styles, JewelMount, also provides a simple<br />
starting point for newcomers. “All they need to do is advise what<br />
aspect of the design they wish to modify, such as changes to the stone<br />
and shank dimensions, mixing shanks and settings, or adding extra<br />
stones,” Sher says.<br />
CAD/CAM possibilities remain endless. As Farago enthuses, “There are<br />
no real limits to what might be achieved with CAD/CAM in the future.<br />
In the short term, we will probably see higher resolution and lowercost<br />
wax printers – the main benefit being that all resin-related casting<br />
issues would be eliminated without losing resolution.”<br />
Though conditions may be tough for jewellers, exciting times are<br />
ahead for those that embrace change. i<br />
RAPID CASTING<br />
New Technology<br />
Highly Efficient Printing<br />
Fast Turnaround Times<br />
BEST PRICES<br />
For over 35 years, Morris & Watson has combined<br />
impeccable craftsmanship with advanced<br />
technology to produce high quality results for<br />
clients throughout the world.<br />
With this technology and fast turnaround times,<br />
you can take on more clients and let us do the<br />
work. With over a decade of experience with this<br />
new technology you can be assured that you are<br />
in good hands.<br />
CALL US TODAY<br />
Australia – 1800 469 088<br />
New Zealand – 0800 500 654<br />
www.morrisandwatson.com
HONG KONG JEWELLERY SHOW<br />
Hong Kong jewellery show<br />
steps up<br />
A MUST-SEE INDUSTRY EVENT, THIS YEAR’S HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY SHOW BROUGHT ITS A-GAME. ANGELA HAN REPORTS.<br />
t’s easy to see why the Hong Kong International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show (HKIJS) is<br />
promoted as Asia’s largest spring fair. This year, event organiser Hong Kong<br />
Trade Development Council (HKTDC) confirmed that 4,555 exhibitors from<br />
52 countries attended the 35th HKIJS and the fifth International Diamond,<br />
Gem and Pearl Show (IDGPS). Both shows reported record-breaking<br />
attendance with 87,000 registered buyers from 145 countries present, a 2 per cent<br />
increase from 2017.<br />
Also registered and visiting across both shows were 1,100 Australian trade buyers<br />
and 18 exhibiting Australian companies. Interestingly, since the IDGPS split<br />
from the fair in 2014, the HKTDC has seen a 68.4 per cent increase in Australian<br />
exhibitors and visitors. HKTDC chairman Lawrence Ma provided an explanation.<br />
“The total exhibition area expanded to over 123,000 square metres, allowing<br />
more local and overseas exhibitors to showcase their offerings,” Ma said. “The<br />
arrangement also enhanced sourcing efficiency for buyers as they could look<br />
for jewellery raw materials and finished jewellery in their respective venues under<br />
one roof.”<br />
According to Benjamin Chau, deputy executive director of the HKTDC, the<br />
overall increases in exhibitor and buyer numbers proved that Hong Kong is an<br />
“important sourcing program for the global jewellery industry”.<br />
“With improving global economic conditions, Hong Kong’s exports of precious<br />
jewellery rose 3.6 per cent last year,” Chau said. “We are delighted that exhibitor<br />
attendance at both shows was the highest in years, and that attendance of<br />
both local and overseas buyers set new records.”<br />
Phil Edwards, managing director of Duraflex Group Australia, was one local<br />
supplier in attendance who was pleasantly surprised by the optimism in the<br />
industry. “I arrived with low expectations due to the challenging local retail<br />
market conditions,” Edwards said. “My immediate impression of the fair was<br />
surprisingly positive and much more upbeat, with higher attendance and foot<br />
traffic than I expected.<br />
“Whilst I have been told by many international distributors from other countries<br />
that retail sales are down, I feel the underlying sentiment from others at the fair<br />
30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
was one of optimism and improvement in<br />
the coming year ahead,” he added.<br />
However, Edwards also noted that this year’s<br />
fair was somewhat lacking in providing new<br />
names “with substance”. “As a local brand<br />
distributor, it is a hot topic that there are no<br />
specific new brands to launch and share<br />
with the local market,” he stated.<br />
ZONING IN ON TECH<br />
New to the fair this year was a designated<br />
IT Solutions zone, an area that provided<br />
innovative software for the jewellery<br />
industry. After all, it is widely acknowledged<br />
that mobile, internet and e-commerce<br />
developments in the jewellery industry will<br />
only increase.<br />
According to Chau, the area also offered<br />
inventory management, design, production<br />
and e-commerce solutions. “The IT<br />
Solutions zone aimed to help industry<br />
players leverage new technologies and<br />
applications, and to develop innovative<br />
designs and services to enhance<br />
competitiveness,” he said.<br />
Ma confirmed the sentiment: “The adoption<br />
of technology such as big data analysis<br />
and virtual fitting has become a new trend,<br />
which is aimed to boost sales and draw<br />
more potential buyers.”<br />
The new fair addition was a move that<br />
paid off, as PicUp Media founder William<br />
Chu attested. Chu is an Australian exhibitor<br />
who launched GemLightbox, a lightbox<br />
for jewellery, specifically tailored around<br />
smartphone photography.<br />
“This new addition shows that the fair<br />
organiser has thought about ways to<br />
improve and increase other offerings, which<br />
will be of interest to buyers,” Chu said. “We<br />
were able to generate a lot of interest and<br />
sold out of all GemLightbox floor stock by<br />
day two. We are extremely happy with the<br />
results and will be exhibiting with them<br />
again next year.”<br />
Dominic Hill, founder of cloud platform<br />
Atelier Technology, agreed. He noted the<br />
new section was far from perfect but “an<br />
important first step”, adding, “for years<br />
we have been waiting to have our own<br />
dedicated space as a community, rather<br />
than sitting in the tooling section.”<br />
Chu acknowledged those comments,<br />
noting the busy nature of the area:<br />
“Buyers are very interested in looking for<br />
IT and other technological solutions for<br />
their businesses.”<br />
HKTDC also ran a dedicated technology<br />
and disruption seminar, covering<br />
topics such as blockchain, big data and<br />
connecting the jewellery supply chain<br />
through cloud technology.<br />
GOT ETHICS?<br />
HKTDC has held events to promote ethical<br />
trading since 2014. Various seminars have<br />
targeted ethical practices in the jewellery<br />
industry, covering topics such as sustainable<br />
tanzanite and gemstone mining,<br />
responsible marine-environment practices<br />
in coral harvesting and the benefits of<br />
responsible sourcing.<br />
This year the fair held a panel discussion in<br />
conjunction with the Responsible <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Council (RJC). It highlighted the growing<br />
importance for companies to have ethical<br />
transparency across all trading practices,<br />
from supply to staff.<br />
Jonathan Kendall, senior vice president of<br />
De Beers’ diamond brand Forevermark, was<br />
one of the panel’s speakers. Kendall said<br />
that “radical transparency” in the industry<br />
was inevitable.<br />
“Going forward, I don’t think there’s an<br />
option,” Kendall said. “Consumers are<br />
demanding transparency and the internet<br />
provides the perfect tool for personal<br />
investigative activity. Expectations of<br />
transparency are a key aspect of today’s<br />
consumer behaviour.”<br />
Edward Johnson, director of business<br />
development at the RJCl agreed.<br />
“Consumers and suppliers are increasingly<br />
aware of sustainability and ethics in relation<br />
to jewellery, as with many other consumer<br />
goods,” Johnson told <strong>Jeweller</strong> . “By not<br />
addressing these concerns, small businesses<br />
risk holding themselves back, making<br />
it harder to compete in a world that is<br />
increasingly demanding transparency<br />
and accountability.”<br />
Ethical transparency is not only important<br />
to Millennial consumers; it’s also crucial for<br />
the digitally-native Gen Zs. Also known as<br />
the iGen or post-Millennials, researchers<br />
SAMS GROUP<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
TENDER STONES<br />
SINGLE STONES<br />
MATCHED PAIRS<br />
CALIBRATED MELEE LINES<br />
E pink@samsgroup.com.au<br />
W samsgroup.com.au<br />
P 02 9290 2199
Create Something<br />
Out of the Ordinary from<br />
Extraordinary Findings<br />
LAWRENCE MA, CHAIRMAN OF HKTDC<br />
JONATHAN KENDALL, VICE PRESIDENT FOREVER<br />
MARK ON PANEL DISCUSSION<br />
Shop<br />
Now<br />
* High Quality *<br />
* Extensive Range *<br />
* Competitive Prices *<br />
* Fully Guaranteed *<br />
Enquire Now<br />
1800 811 116<br />
sales@peekays.com.au<br />
www.peekays.com.au<br />
facebook.com/peekaysfindings<br />
generally place their birthing years between<br />
the mid-1990s and mid-2000s. With trends<br />
coming and going, it’s easy to perceive<br />
the demand for ethical transparency as a<br />
Gen-Z fad, but Johnson believes this is not<br />
the case.<br />
“Transparency is inherently linked to<br />
communication and Gen Z are the mostconnected<br />
generation in history,” he said.<br />
“New ways to source and share information<br />
are emerging by the day, and it would<br />
be remiss of the industry to dismiss the<br />
role of Gen Z in driving the demand for<br />
transparency as a ‘fad’. Gen Z are demanding<br />
more from businesses, namely that they<br />
take a clear stand on wider social issues and<br />
are ethically responsible in their operations.”<br />
As well as ethical transparency, unique<br />
designs and multi-channel marketing will<br />
be the other two major changes shaping<br />
the industry.<br />
Kendall advised small businesses to start<br />
adapting to the process slowly.<br />
“Understanding your suppliers is the key,” he<br />
said. “Make sure they meet your own ethical<br />
standards and challenge them on the<br />
key fundamentals: where do they source<br />
materials, are they environmentally friendly<br />
operations, do they measure their carbon<br />
footprint, when will they expect to be<br />
carbon neutral, what are their employment<br />
policies, is equality part of their business<br />
practices, and so on.”<br />
MINED OVER MATTER<br />
Synthetic diamonds were also a hot topic<br />
at the fair. Once considered high-cost<br />
and impractical, technological changes<br />
over the last decade have seen a steady<br />
increase in demand for this natural diamond<br />
alternative.<br />
“A few years down the road, natural<br />
diamonds and lab-grown diamonds will<br />
coexist at different price levels,” Ma said.<br />
“Lab-grown diamonds will be another<br />
product available for the consumers to<br />
choose from.”<br />
Edwards agreed with these sentiments;<br />
however, he noted that the demand would<br />
continue to be a “steep learning curve for<br />
trade and consumers”.<br />
“This is a new frontier that I feel will have<br />
a huge impact on the market – exactly<br />
how much will depend on how they are<br />
launched, presented, branded and sold to<br />
the consumer,” he added.<br />
When asked if there was room in the market<br />
for both synthetic and natural diamonds,<br />
Kendall gave a resounding “yes”, and that he<br />
sees lab-grown diamonds as “the new cubic<br />
zirconia” – they will have a place in custom<br />
jewellery, but at a much lower price point.<br />
“The demand for the real thing will be very<br />
strong, and the key will be to maintain<br />
the emotional differentiation between<br />
diamonds and synthetics,” he concluded.<br />
With so many industry developments<br />
already underway, it’s easy to see why Asia’s<br />
biggest spring fair is so valuable to the<br />
Australian jewellery industry.<br />
The next show will be in March 2019. i<br />
For the extended report with fair images,<br />
please visit jewellermagazine.com<br />
Angela Han attended the fair courtesy of<br />
HKTDC.
GEMS<br />
COLOUR INVESTIGATION: SAPPHIRE<br />
as padparadscha– a Sinhalese word that<br />
translates to ‘lotus flower’. Other sapphire<br />
colours include purple-violet, grey, brown<br />
and black. A sapphire’s colour is often patchy<br />
and uneven, with straight and angular colour<br />
banding typically seen in natural stones.<br />
Commonly originating from Australia,<br />
parti-coloured stones show a mix of two or<br />
three colours: often blue, green and yellow,<br />
which can be cut to create a playful flash of<br />
colour through the crown facets. Due to their<br />
relatively higher availability and affordability,<br />
they offer a unique and colourful alternative<br />
to blue sapphire.<br />
ORANGE SAPPHIRE<br />
Throughout history, sapphire has always<br />
been associated with the colour blue.<br />
This still rings true today, with many<br />
consumers unaware of the other coloured<br />
varieties available. STACEY LIM reports.<br />
Since ancient times, sapphire has adorned<br />
kings, queens and clergy members. A<br />
symbol of nobility and truth, it was worn as<br />
a talisman to protect from envy and harm.<br />
Sapphire comes in many hues, including rare<br />
colour-change varieties. Whilst fine velvety<br />
Ceylonese blue is unrivalled and attracts a<br />
high demand for stones over 1 carat, particoloured<br />
(when different colours are found<br />
in different parts of a structure) and other<br />
fancy-coloured sapphires are increasing in<br />
BLUE SAPPHIRE<br />
mineral – meaning that it owes its colour<br />
to trace impurities. Colourless sapphire, the<br />
most chemically pure form of corundum, is<br />
rare. Other varieties are coloured by different<br />
trace elements in the crystal structure. Atoms<br />
of these impurities resonate in light and<br />
absorb specific parts of the spectrum. The<br />
remaining light reflected to the eye gives<br />
colour to the gemstone.<br />
Rich blue Ceylonese stones are the most wellknown<br />
and valuable variety of sapphire. They<br />
are the standard against which other blue<br />
gems are measured. However, paler versions<br />
of this hue are still in high demand. Blue is<br />
caused by traces of titanium and iron; the<br />
more iron present, the darker the stone.<br />
PARTI-COLOURED<br />
AND OTHER<br />
FANCY-COLOURED<br />
SAPPHIRES ARE<br />
INCREASING IN<br />
POPULARITY AS<br />
AN ALTERNATIVE<br />
TO DIAMONDS<br />
FOR ENGAGEMENT<br />
RINGS<br />
Rare colour change sapphires exist, with the<br />
varying colours dependent on the colouring<br />
agents. The more commonly seen stones<br />
are from Sri Lanka, and shift from purple<br />
under incandescent light to bluish violet in<br />
daylight. Natural daylight or fluorescent light<br />
contains higher proportions of blue and<br />
green wavelengths, causing the gemstone<br />
to appear more cool-hued. Incandescent<br />
lighting that contains a higher proportion<br />
of red wavelengths will cause the gemstone<br />
to appear a warmer hue. The intensity of<br />
body colour, and the impressiveness of the<br />
colour-changing properties greatly influence<br />
a stone’s value.<br />
Sapphires are often heat-treated to remove<br />
silk inclusions, thus enhancing clarity and<br />
richness of colour. Although this treatment<br />
does affect the price, it is not adding anything<br />
artificial to the stone, so it is an accepted<br />
treatment among gemmologists. A stone’s<br />
value rests upon the evenness and intensity of<br />
colour, the quality of cut, clarity and carat size.<br />
The spectral delights of sapphires continue to<br />
capture our hearts. i<br />
popularity as an alternative to diamonds for<br />
engagement rings.<br />
The corundum group includes some of the<br />
most desired coloured gemstones used for<br />
fine jewellery. Corundum is an allochromatic<br />
Green and some yellow sapphires also owe<br />
their colour to iron. Chromium influences the<br />
red of ruby, and the pinks of pink sapphire.<br />
When chromium is paired with iron, it can<br />
produce a special orangey pink colour known<br />
STACEY LIM FGAA BA Design, is a qualified<br />
gemmologist and gemmology teacher/assistant.<br />
She is a jewellery designer, marketing manager<br />
and passionate communicator on gemmology.<br />
For information on gemstones, visit: gem.org.au<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 33
Behind every gemstone,<br />
there is a fascinating story<br />
waiting to delight clients<br />
around the world. Studying<br />
with GAA brings the<br />
expertise, networking and<br />
confidence to build a solid<br />
career in a multimilliondollar<br />
industry. Joining<br />
one of the most supportive<br />
and passionate professional<br />
communities of gemmologists<br />
in Australia was one of the<br />
best decision I ever made.<br />
Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT<br />
Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist<br />
Sales Associate, Paspaley - VIC<br />
Diamond<br />
Courses<br />
Practical Diamond Grading &<br />
Diploma in Diamond Technology<br />
Enrolments now open<br />
For more information<br />
1300 436 338<br />
learn@gem.org.au<br />
www.gem.org.au<br />
Be<br />
Confident<br />
Gem-Ed Australia<br />
ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY<br />
Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />
and consumers about gemstones
BUSINESS<br />
RETAILER METRICS IN AN ONLINE WORLD<br />
Customers are evolving and retail<br />
metrics must evolve with them if<br />
retailers are to leverage the information<br />
they need in an omni-channel<br />
marketplace. CHRIS PETERSEN reports.<br />
At the most basic level, retail is the simple<br />
business of selling products to consumers<br />
who need them.<br />
Historically, retailing was based on<br />
shoppers visiting stores to buy product,<br />
and even when retailers opened online<br />
stores, the core metrics didn’t change –<br />
they remained focused on sales, revenue,<br />
margin, growth, and market share.<br />
In today’s omni-channel marketplace, the<br />
customers are now the new Point of Sale<br />
(POS). Customers determine where they<br />
purchase, how they pay and where they<br />
collect their goods.<br />
Traditional POS systems are no longer<br />
enough when trends shift to ‘click and<br />
collect’ arrangements.<br />
Retailer systems and metrics were not<br />
designed to track ‘flow’ to the consumer,<br />
which means today’s retailers are facing<br />
new business questions that will require<br />
new data, metrics and benchmarking.<br />
This is important because one cannot<br />
manage what one doesn’t measure.<br />
Retailers have always measured sales at<br />
their location, yet how the purchases of<br />
today’s customers occur is just as important<br />
as any final sales receipt.<br />
CORE METRICS STILL TRADITIONAL<br />
Bricks and mortar stores have evolved from<br />
being just places that sell things.<br />
Historically, stores had a ‘till’ and most still<br />
have cash registers where the purpose is to<br />
collect payment, give change and record<br />
the transactions and data required to run<br />
their business.<br />
Today’s stores have much more<br />
sophisticated POS systems that enable<br />
electronic payment. These POS systems<br />
track data all the way down to the SKU level<br />
to enable inventory replenishment and a<br />
detailed analysis of what is sold.<br />
Through e-commerce and the concept of<br />
TRADITIONAL POS<br />
SYSTEMS ARE NO<br />
LONGER ENOUGH<br />
WHEN TRENDS<br />
SHIFT TO ‘CLICK<br />
AND COLLECT’<br />
ARRANGEMENTS<br />
the virtual store, retail has evolved further.<br />
While the online shopping experience is<br />
digital, it is interesting that websites still use<br />
the term ‘shopping cart’.<br />
Online, the term ‘checkout’ also still reflects<br />
the experience of waiting in a queue to pay<br />
at the cash register in a physical store.<br />
In many ways, the POS system for online is<br />
not all that different from bricks-and-mortar<br />
stores; however, the new dimension is<br />
variety in shipment methods.<br />
FINANCE REPORTS SHOUD BE BROAD<br />
POS systems have been integrated into<br />
larger enterprise systems for managing<br />
retail operations, inventory and financials.<br />
Yet, it is interesting to note how much of<br />
a retailer’s core metrics are still focused on<br />
stores selling products.<br />
Whether it be physical stores or online,<br />
financial reports are heavily focused on<br />
sales, revenue, returns and net profit.<br />
To benchmark performance, retailers use<br />
their metrics to analyse trends and growth:<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 35
BUSINESS<br />
year-on-year (YOY) growth, same-store<br />
sales and comparisons to same-week sales<br />
as in the previous year.<br />
If retailers only track their own<br />
performance, however, they can be<br />
blindsided by the market and competition.<br />
So larger retailers subscribe to third-party<br />
sources that track total volumes of goods<br />
and market consumption.<br />
They also use this data to analyse<br />
distributor data to map shipments through<br />
various channels.<br />
The end result is that retailers can<br />
quickly benchmark their growth against<br />
competitive indices, and track their market<br />
share at the national and local levels.<br />
This is all good and still very important but<br />
what are they missing?<br />
THE CONSUMER IS THE NEW POS<br />
By definition, omni-channel customers<br />
shop in more than one place across time.<br />
Not only do they determine where and<br />
how they shop but also where and how<br />
they will pay for the goods.<br />
Even more importantly, today’s consumers<br />
are expecting – and receiving – many<br />
choice of purchase and delivery options:<br />
• Buy online, ship to home<br />
• Buy online, collect in store<br />
• Buy online, collect at locker or another<br />
location<br />
• Buy in store, take home<br />
• Buy in store, delivery at home<br />
• Buy in store, delivery at commuter<br />
station or other location<br />
Over a very short period of time, this has<br />
caused confusion or complicated how a<br />
sale should be recorded.<br />
For example, if a customer buys online and<br />
collects in store, is that an online sale or a<br />
physical store sale?<br />
and the third-party sources only report<br />
online versus store sales – none of the<br />
purchase dynamics or point of receipt are<br />
measured. Much valuable data is lost.<br />
OMNI-CHANNEL METRICS ESSENTIAL<br />
POS systems are necessary but not<br />
sufficient for providing omni-channel<br />
retailing success.<br />
Without being able to effectively measure<br />
consumer purchase and delivery flow,<br />
retailers can’t see the critical paths or<br />
measure return on investment (ROI) on<br />
omni-channel investments.<br />
For example, if a retailer sees double-digit<br />
YOY sales growth for online, they need to<br />
know if that’s good and why.<br />
A retailer needs to know if the online<br />
sales growth is due to the investments to<br />
improve the online experience, or is it part<br />
of the new click and collect capabilities<br />
available at stores?<br />
Does it matter where a sale happens? One<br />
could argue that a sale is a sale.<br />
However, the costs associated with a given<br />
sale can be quite different. Compare a<br />
transaction completed entirely on the<br />
web with an online purchase that uses<br />
collect in store.<br />
The latter has different costs for stock, staff<br />
and store operations.<br />
Beyond the costs of different flows,<br />
research has consistently shown major<br />
positive gains for businesses using omnichannel<br />
sales activity.<br />
Omni-channel customers shop more often,<br />
buy more and can be as much as 47 per<br />
cent more profitable than consumers who<br />
just shop one channel.<br />
While the complexity can be more<br />
operationally expensive, the multiple paths<br />
creating consumer choice can be much<br />
more profitable and create more loyalty,<br />
which leads to repeat purchases.<br />
A RETAILER<br />
NEEDS TO KNOW<br />
IF THE ONLINE<br />
SALES GROWTH<br />
IS DUE TO THE<br />
INVESTMENTS<br />
TO IMPROVE<br />
THE ONLINE<br />
EXPERIENCE, OR<br />
IS IT PART OF<br />
THE NEW CLICK<br />
AND COLLECT<br />
CAPABILITIES<br />
AVAILABLE AT<br />
STORES?<br />
into the paths and factors that culminated<br />
in any particular sale or return.<br />
In order to know where to invest and how<br />
to best leverage omni-channel factors to<br />
optimise growth, retailers need to know and<br />
measure much more.<br />
Today, every retailer is competing in a<br />
digital world whether they acknowledge<br />
it or not. Consumers are driving their own<br />
experiences and purchases, which means<br />
retailers should be able to answer the<br />
following business questions:<br />
• How many consumers search your<br />
business on their mobile device?<br />
• How many mobile searches result in<br />
sales for your stores/online?<br />
• How many customers search your online<br />
website from within your store?<br />
• How many customers purchase online<br />
and collect in store or at a locker?<br />
• How many customers purchase at a<br />
store but chose to have it delivered?<br />
• How many customers purchase with free<br />
or same-day delivery?<br />
• Are omni-channel customers more or<br />
less profitable and by how much?<br />
STORE EVOLUTION<br />
The store has evolved to become more than<br />
a shopping destination. It’s also an avenue<br />
of customer experience, and a point of<br />
goods distribution.<br />
To strategically leverage the omni-channel<br />
consumer experience and increase sales,<br />
retailers need to know much more than the<br />
percentage of sales they make online and in<br />
their bricks-and-mortar stores.<br />
We now live in an age where the customer<br />
is the store.<br />
Retailers now need the data and metrics<br />
to track the paths and core metrics for<br />
maximum success. i<br />
If a customer searches online, finds a<br />
product in-store, views the product in the<br />
store then buys on a mobile phone and<br />
ships a home delivery, how should that sale<br />
be recorded, and in how much detail?<br />
In most cases the retailer’s own systems<br />
CRITICAL QUESTIONS FOR RETAILERS<br />
Tracking retail sales will always be<br />
important, because sales are the final<br />
outcome in every business.<br />
However, the number of individual<br />
purchases does not provide insights<br />
CHRIS PETERSEN is founder<br />
and CEO of retail consultancy<br />
Integrated Marketing<br />
Solutions (IMS). Learn more:<br />
www.imsresultscount.com<br />
36 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
SELLING<br />
FIVE WAYS TO SUCCEED IN SALES<br />
THE SALES INDUSTRY IS FILLED WITH PEOPLE WHO NEVER REACH THEIR TRUE POTENTIAL, BECAUSE THEY FAIL TO LOOK FOR<br />
NEW HORIZONS. DOUG DVORAK DISCUSSES HOW SALES PROFESSIONALS CAN TAKE THEIR GAME TO THE NEXT LEVEL.<br />
Successful sales professionals sometimes<br />
lose sight of the fact that there is always<br />
room for improvement. Those sales<br />
professionals who take the extra step and<br />
push themselves to the limit are known<br />
as the top one per cent – they have found<br />
smart ways to succeed in sales by creatively<br />
thinking outside of the box and working<br />
hard for results.<br />
ESTABLISH YOUR BRAND<br />
Separate yourself from competitors by<br />
learning how to brand your jewellery store<br />
effectively and often. Incorporate your brand<br />
into every facet of your business so that<br />
customers learn to recognise you. Learn your<br />
strengths and emphasise them.<br />
Establish a good reputation with your<br />
customers by developing valuable content.<br />
Top performers in the sales industry aren’t<br />
just the ones bringing in the most revenue<br />
for their businesses; they are the ones<br />
setting the standards for everybody else.<br />
These top sales professionals are always<br />
hungry for more opportunities to succeed.<br />
KNOW THE RULES BEFORE YOU BREAK THEM<br />
Valuable content is not an advertisement;<br />
valuable content helps to solve a problem,<br />
answer a question or address a burning issue<br />
for the reader.<br />
BUILD A GREAT TEAM<br />
To reach the top of the ladder, sales<br />
professionals must embrace the idea of<br />
becoming trendsetters. Success is a lifestyle,<br />
not a destination.<br />
If you follow the footsteps of others, you can<br />
reach a certain level of success; however,<br />
in this competitive business world it takes<br />
more than that to reach the highest level.<br />
Following the safe path will not always take<br />
you to the top of the game.<br />
Trends in business are always changing, and<br />
the ones who are willing to innovate and<br />
adapt to the ever-changing landscape will<br />
separate themselves from the pack.<br />
To find out how your business can set<br />
trends instead of following them, here are<br />
some smart ways to succeed in today’s<br />
complex and competitive world.<br />
MAKE TIME FOR CREATIVITY<br />
It’s hard to be creative when you don’t make<br />
enough time for yourself to let the good<br />
ideas flow freely.<br />
Be patient with the process and learn to<br />
play around with new ways of doing things.<br />
Don’t judge yourself too hard when you are<br />
brainstorming; trendsetters in business are<br />
willing to think outside of the box and are<br />
patient enough to let new ideas grow.<br />
LEARN HOW TO<br />
BRAND YOUR<br />
JEWELLERY STORE<br />
EFFECTIVELY-<br />
INCORPORATE YOUR<br />
BRAND INTO EVERY<br />
FACET OF YOUR<br />
BUSINESS SO THAT<br />
CUSTOMERS LEARN<br />
TO RECOGNISE YOU<br />
The right work ethic, and the willingness<br />
to explore new ways to tackle a problem<br />
will set you apart from the rest.<br />
STUDY THE CURRENT TRENDS<br />
You need to know the rules in order to break<br />
them. Learn what trends dominate the<br />
market and think of new ideas to change the<br />
way things are done. Read about the latest<br />
jewellery industry news, styles and trends;<br />
learn as much as possible from the success<br />
and failures of competitors; attend webinars<br />
and conventions.<br />
Trendsetters are always two steps ahead of<br />
the competition because they stay informed<br />
and can anticipate moves in the game.<br />
LEARN HOW CUSTOMERS THINK<br />
Listen to your customer base and understand<br />
what works and what doesn’t.<br />
Knowing this will help you generate new<br />
ideas. Figure out what they need and<br />
capitalise on it effectively.<br />
Understand what customers are saying, and<br />
have an honest dialogue with what they<br />
have to say about your store.<br />
Learning from customers will help you to<br />
innovate and think clearly about what really<br />
needs to be done to improve your business.<br />
Strive to build a strong foundation by<br />
hiring innovative people who will go to bat<br />
whenever needed.<br />
Treat your team with respect and motivate<br />
them to keep up with new ideas. Inspire<br />
your team by holding brainstorming sessions<br />
where they can bounce ideas off each<br />
other and fully benefit from open lines of<br />
communication with each other.<br />
You’re only as strong as your weakest link, so<br />
it’s important that everyone is on the same<br />
page and running like clockwork.<br />
Succeeding in sales today requires that you<br />
think outside the box, work like hell and call<br />
on a large pool of ideas for inspiration.<br />
Salespeople need to be creative, suit up and<br />
show up on time every day.<br />
The top one per cent of professionals forge<br />
their own path by exploring new ways<br />
to innovate and expand. Learn to stay<br />
motivated and hungry by executing goals in<br />
a timely and professional manner. i<br />
DOUG DVORAK is CEO of<br />
DMG International, delivering<br />
motivational management<br />
workshops. Learn more:<br />
dougdvorak.com<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37
MANAGEMENT<br />
HOW TO LOSE CUSTOMERS WITHOUT TRYING<br />
PERHAPS YOU WORKED HARD FOR YEARS TO BUILD A LOYAL CUSTOMER BASE, AND NOW YOUR CUSTOMERS<br />
ARE LEAVING YOUR STORE IN DROVES. STEVE DIGIOIA DISCUSSES WHAT COULD HAVE WENT WRONG.<br />
Sales are down and the bills are piling up.<br />
Employee morale is low and coming to<br />
work is no longer fun. When business was<br />
good, you thought it would last forever.<br />
You stopped doing the things that brought<br />
you success and eventually took your loyal<br />
customers for granted.<br />
You became the ‘bad boss’! If you find<br />
yourself in this situation, what happened?<br />
How did you get here?<br />
These are the seven most common reasons<br />
customers take their business elsewhere. I<br />
bet if you asked your customers why they<br />
stopped shopping with you, these are some<br />
of the reasons they would give.<br />
DON’T PATRONISE ME<br />
I don’t care about the industry jargon or the<br />
technical terms salespeople use to describe<br />
why a product stopped working. Speak to<br />
me like I’m a person.<br />
Explain the problem in terms I can<br />
understand. Only then will I agree to pay for<br />
the repair or replacement. If not, I don’t need<br />
your product or company; I’ll very quickly go<br />
somewhere else.<br />
DON’T MAKE ME FEEL UNIMPORTANT<br />
I need to know you appreciate my business<br />
and value me as part of your success. I need<br />
to feel welcome when I enter your business,<br />
and to receive a warm and sincere smile.<br />
That’s not asking for too much and it’s the<br />
very least I expect.<br />
DON’T GIVE ME EXCUSES<br />
I understand problems arise that are out of<br />
your control – deliveries arrive late; product<br />
shortages happen; unseen damage and<br />
costs are unavoidable. Just be honest.<br />
Don’t make up a story. I need to trust you.<br />
DON’T LEAVE ME WAITING<br />
The last time I was in your store, your staff<br />
answered the phone and entered into a<br />
lengthy conversation just as I approached<br />
IF YOU DON’T<br />
REALISE THAT<br />
CUSTOMER SERVICE<br />
IS WHY I COME TO<br />
YOUR STORE, THEN<br />
YOUR BUSINESS<br />
WILL NEVER<br />
SUCCEED - IT’S<br />
THE EMPLOYEES<br />
WHO MAKE THE<br />
BUSINESS<br />
ARE CUSTOMERS GIVING YOU 1-STAR RATINGS?<br />
the counter. Have some consideration; I’m<br />
not invisible and my time is also valuable.<br />
Remember that I’m the customer and I am<br />
in your store with cash in my pocket. You<br />
can always call the other party back. Tend to<br />
me promptly and with courtesy or I’ll easily<br />
go somewhere else.<br />
DON’T SUBSTITUTE INFERIOR PRODUCTS<br />
I’ve shopped with you for years and have<br />
always been happy but now, just to save<br />
costs, you’ve started to provide cheaper<br />
quality products.<br />
I can tell the difference and I’m not happy<br />
with it. Please go back to using the highest<br />
quality items, as you’ve always done. That’s<br />
why I come here.<br />
DON’T HIRE APATHETIC STAFF<br />
If you don’t realise that customer service is<br />
why I come to your store, then your business<br />
will never succeed.<br />
It’s the employees who make the business,<br />
not the fancy furnishings, the artwork on the<br />
walls or any of that.<br />
Your employees don’t seem to care about<br />
me; they spend too much time talking to<br />
each other and their eyes are always focused<br />
on their mobile phones.<br />
I want to tell them, “I’m here. Sell me<br />
something,” but I don’t think it would make a<br />
difference. Why did you employ them?<br />
REINVEST IN THE BUSINESS<br />
I understand that businesses can’t spend<br />
much money when things are tight;<br />
however, they must fix what’s broken.<br />
Your floor is worn, your counters and<br />
showcases are chipped and your walls need<br />
a paint job. This doesn’t affect the products<br />
you sell, but it does affect the overall<br />
shopping experience.<br />
Add this to the other items above and you<br />
will very quickly see why I no longer want to<br />
come here to shop.<br />
As your long-time customer, I don’t ask<br />
for much. OK, maybe I do but that’s what<br />
business is all about – satisfying the needs of<br />
the customer.<br />
There are limits to my loyalty, just as there<br />
are limits to the services you can provide<br />
but it’s not too late to fix things. You can still<br />
recover from this.<br />
Many books have been written about how<br />
to lose a customer without really trying, or<br />
how much it costs to lose a customer but<br />
that’s not important now. We can fix this and<br />
we can do it without the help of a book.<br />
As customers, we are a forgiving bunch.<br />
We like you and want the best for you. We<br />
want to keep coming here but you need to<br />
change things for the better.<br />
Please remember a successful business is<br />
like a championship sports team; we are all<br />
in this together, but the team will break up if<br />
you don’t do your part. Then you’ll be out of<br />
business, but I can find another team. i<br />
STEVE DIGIOIA helps<br />
companies improve<br />
customer service. Learn more:<br />
stevedigioia.com/blog<br />
@stevedigioia<br />
38 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
MARKETING & PR<br />
REFRESH YOUR CUSTOMER SERVICE<br />
RETAILERS CAN OBTAIN USEFUL INFORMATION WHEN ASKING CUSTOMERS FOR SUGGESTIONS. RICH KIZER & GEORGANNE<br />
BENDER CALL IT THEIR BIG QUESTION: “WHAT ONE THING COULD WE DO TO IMPROVE OUR CUSTOMER CARE?”<br />
Customer care is often over looked these days, yet it’s the one area<br />
consistently at the top of everyone’s wish list. No shopper wants to<br />
be ignored, and no retailer wants to offer poor service – but both still<br />
happen far too often. Customers say that shopping is sometimes too<br />
much of a hassle. Stores are hard to shop and customers can’t find<br />
items they want to buy, or even a knowledgeable staff member when<br />
they need one. Retailers seeking to appraise the quality of service in<br />
their stores should consider the following ideas:<br />
HOST A FOCUS GROUP<br />
Invite 15 customers to participate in a focus group, but set the room<br />
for 10. It’s always better to bring in extra chairs than to have empty<br />
seats as it makes the meeting seem even more important.<br />
Hold the focus group in store and make sure there’s an impartial third<br />
party to run the group – it can be hard to remain objective when<br />
shoppers are giving negative feedback, but retailers who get defensive<br />
about criticism will only shut down discussion.<br />
Perhaps observe the session from behind closed doors, or video it<br />
and watch later. Serve refreshments and have a list of questions that<br />
the presenter can use to keep the conversation moving. Participants<br />
should receive a gift of at least $100 for participating, preferably in<br />
cash. You may also want to include a jar candle or other small gift.<br />
CREATE A CUSTOMER ADVISORY BOARD<br />
Similar to a corporate board of directors, retailers can meet with an<br />
advisory board once a quarter to discuss any strategies and changes<br />
that have been implemented, as well as any ideas for the future.<br />
Choose a diverse group of people spanning different generations.<br />
CONDUCT EXIT INTERVIEWS<br />
Station yourself near the front door and politely ask customers as they<br />
are leaving whether they found everything they were seeking. Exit<br />
interviews are great for identifying the products that customers wish<br />
you carried, and you’ll be able to save a few sales when customers find<br />
you do have what they need but didn’t find.<br />
CUSTOMER COMMENT CARDS<br />
Place ‘Tell us what you think!’ cards at the store’s POS counter and any<br />
other service counters. Include these cards in purchase packaging and<br />
make a feedback form available to browsers on the website. Cards are<br />
helpful for time-starved customers who have something to say but are<br />
too short on time to stop and talk.<br />
ASK THE TEAM<br />
Feedback from staff can be as valuable as feedback from customers,<br />
so ask the sales team to jot down anything they’re hearing from<br />
customers on the sales floor.<br />
EXIT INTERVIEWS<br />
ARE GREAT FOR<br />
IDENTIFYING THE<br />
PRODUCTS THAT<br />
CUSTOMERS WISH<br />
YOU CARRIED, AND<br />
YOU’LL BE ABLE TO<br />
SAVE A FEW SALES<br />
WHEN CUSTOMERS<br />
FIND YOU DO HAVE<br />
WHAT THEY NEED<br />
BUT DIDN’T FIND<br />
ASK CUSTOMERS FOR SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO IMPROVE SERVICE<br />
Give each staff member a small notebook in which to record their<br />
comments and discuss these comments during store meetings.<br />
THE ONE THING<br />
Retailers can obtain useful information when asking customers for<br />
single suggestions. This is known as the big question and works as<br />
follows: “What one way could we improve our customer care?” or<br />
“What one service would make it more convenient to shop here?”<br />
or “What one in-store event would you like to attend?”<br />
Customers must put thought into their answers, which will ensure<br />
constructive suggestions. Don’t be surprised to find that shoppers<br />
might focus on the same topic. This is a good thing – if it’s positive<br />
feedback then it’s one more thing to brag about, and if it’s negative<br />
then you know exactly what to fix.<br />
The ideas above are designed to help you find out how your business<br />
scores on customer service, but they will also help you grow your<br />
business. After asking customers for their input, retailers must make<br />
sure they use the information they have gathered.<br />
When implementing customer suggestions, let them know. Post their<br />
responses on a “customer interaction” bulletin board inside the store<br />
and share what has been implemented on social media pages, the<br />
website and the store newsletter.<br />
Knowing your customers and what they want will keep merchandise<br />
fresh, promotions fun and sales ticking over. i<br />
RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER<br />
are retail strategists, authors and consultants.<br />
Learn more: kizerandbender.com<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39
LOGGED ON<br />
CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS<br />
BUSINESSES THAT UNDERSTAND HOW TO INTERPRET SOCIAL MEDIA DATA CAN UNLOCK VALUABLE CUSTOMER INSIGHTS. IN PART<br />
TWO OF THIS SERIES ON INSTAGRAM MARKETING, MELISSA MEGGINSON SHOWS HOW TO USE DATA TO MAKE BETTER DECISIONS.<br />
Instagram is a great tool for building<br />
connections and engaging with potential<br />
customers, but that’s just the beginning of<br />
its power. Accessing built-in analytics and<br />
statistics can help any business understand<br />
what consumers want, and the best way to<br />
get their full attention.<br />
In order to start evaluating your Instagram<br />
numbers, it’s important to know your goals.<br />
Businesses use Instagram for many different<br />
purposes including increasing awareness,<br />
driving traffic to a website and selling<br />
products. The statistics you’ll want to see<br />
depend on your business goals.<br />
DON’T FORGET YOUR TOFU<br />
Brands mostly use Instagram to focus on<br />
brand awareness, which is known as a ‘top<br />
of funnel’ (TOFU) activity. The strategy is to<br />
increase the number of consumers who<br />
know about your brand, educate them about<br />
your products and create a general buzz and<br />
strong desire to purchase.<br />
Measurements that provide information<br />
about this goal of boosting brand awareness<br />
are follows, likes and comments. Social media<br />
analysts often refer to these measures as<br />
‘vanity metrics’, dismissing them as weak<br />
indicators of overall awareness; however, is it<br />
still vanity if it gets the job done? These socalled<br />
vanity metrics are extremely valuable<br />
for TOFU brand awareness because they<br />
achieve the desired goal, which is to have<br />
more users interact with and see content<br />
from the brand.<br />
Perhaps you are using Instagram as a tool<br />
lower down in your sales funnel. If driving<br />
traffic to your website, converting on sales<br />
or capturing emails are your goals, then your<br />
data gem is to find out how many people are<br />
accessing your website through Instagram.<br />
TRACKING TOFU<br />
To track that, add a UTM tracking code or use<br />
a bit.ly link in your profile, which will track the<br />
origin of anyone who clicks on the link. From<br />
there you can see if your Instagram traffic<br />
converts on your website-specific goals.<br />
SHARE LINKS FOR GREATER SUCCESS<br />
If you’re new to Instagram, you might have<br />
noticed that there aren’t too many ways<br />
for users to embed links into their posts.<br />
Discussion has raged for years about when<br />
Instagram will start allowing links on posts<br />
and, in truth, it seems unlikely that it will<br />
change anytime soon.<br />
This means that retailers need to be strategic<br />
about getting users to visit their websites.<br />
Right now, there are four different ways to<br />
include links on Instagram:<br />
• the profile link<br />
• tools to create clickable photo galleries<br />
• Story links for business accounts with more<br />
than 10,000 followers<br />
• Instagram ads<br />
BREAKING IT DOWN<br />
Let’s look at each of these in more detail.<br />
First up, the profile link: this is the only<br />
formal – and free – link on Instagram. If your<br />
business frequently shares blog posts or<br />
runs different promotions, it makes sense<br />
to change out the link so it directs users to<br />
your current promotions. This is great if your<br />
followers typically only engage with your<br />
most recent content.<br />
The second option is to use a tool like<br />
Soldsie to create clickable photo galleries.<br />
Soldsie converts your profile link into a digital<br />
storefront that users can browse. One thing<br />
to consider is that engagement goes down<br />
when pages require more clicks from users<br />
and Soldsie adds an additional click to view a<br />
virtual storefront. If you use a tool like Soldsie,<br />
measure the sales and conversions to make<br />
sure it’s worth the monthly fee.<br />
Our next option is using links in Instagram<br />
Stories, which is only available to business<br />
accounts with more than 10,000 followers.<br />
Instagram Stories are images or videos that<br />
stay on Instagram for 24 hours unless added<br />
to a Story Highlight on your profile. With links<br />
JUDGING VANITY METRICS ON INSTAGRAM: IS IT STILL VANITY IF IT WORKS?<br />
USED<br />
EFFECTIVELY,<br />
CRUNCHING THE<br />
NUMBERS ON<br />
YOUR STORE’S<br />
INSTAGRAM<br />
ACCOUNT COULD<br />
BE THE MISSING<br />
KEY TO CREATING<br />
STRONGER<br />
RELATIONSHIPS<br />
WITH YOUR<br />
CUSTOMERS<br />
in Stories, business accounts can add URLs<br />
to their images or video, and viewers just<br />
have to swipe up to open the link. Again, it’s<br />
important to use a UTM code or bit.ly link to<br />
understand where that traffic is coming from.<br />
The last option – Instagram ads – is the most<br />
flexible option, but oddly enough, the one<br />
that businesses avoid the most.<br />
Instagram advertising gives businesses the<br />
option to have a tailored landing page,<br />
control the user experience, reach more<br />
users and measure the results. If you are able<br />
to generate more revenue than the cost of<br />
the ad, it’s a great avenue for your business;<br />
however, that’s a big ‘if’.<br />
Used effectively, crunching the numbers on<br />
your store’s Instagram account could be the<br />
missing key to creating stronger relationships<br />
with your customers. It could also elevate<br />
your marketing message away from generic<br />
social media approaches by providing that<br />
personal touch that consumers crave, and<br />
this could easily be the difference between<br />
surviving or sinking. i<br />
MELISSA MEGGINSON is<br />
marketing manager at Tailwind,<br />
the leading visual marketing<br />
tool for brands. Learn more:<br />
tailwindapp.com<br />
40 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
MY STORE<br />
STORE: MCLEAN &<br />
CO JEWELLERS<br />
COUNTRY: Australia<br />
NAME: Stuart McLean<br />
POSITION: Director<br />
When was the renovated space<br />
completed?<br />
Our space was completed in 2014.<br />
Who is the target market and how did<br />
they influence the store design?<br />
Our target market is clients who seek high<br />
quality, custom made, unique jewellery<br />
that is available for immediate sale. Our<br />
demographic for one off designs from<br />
the window is the over-45s market. The<br />
store’s marble and stainless steel façade<br />
was designed to create a classic jewellery<br />
store front, that assures all customers<br />
of our quality.<br />
With the relationship between store<br />
ambience and consumer purchasing<br />
in mind, which features in the store<br />
encourage sales?<br />
Our mounted television display that<br />
scrolls through our current designs<br />
certainly encourages sales. Our large<br />
‘observation windows’ enable customers<br />
to see the manufacturing jewellers at<br />
work, and bring them into the store to<br />
see what it’s all about.<br />
What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?<br />
Our marble shop front and steel curtains<br />
are certainly the most admired features of<br />
the store. Creating a look that customers<br />
might expect to see on a high street<br />
rather than a shopping centre certainly<br />
makes us stand out, in a centre with six<br />
national jewellery retailers, and at least 30<br />
fashion retailers. Our look needed to say<br />
‘wow’ while making the statement we are<br />
a quality, traditional style jeweller.<br />
What advice would you offer retailers<br />
wanting to revamp their jewellery<br />
store space?<br />
Look to promote your own products<br />
within the store. Heavily promoting<br />
‘brands’ that are available in other stores<br />
and online have the potential to work for<br />
others. If you are looking at revamping,<br />
ditch the brands and make your retail<br />
space all about you! i<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41
10 YEARS AGO<br />
WHAT WAS BREAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?<br />
A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE MAY 2008 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.<br />
Auscert boasts<br />
biggest masterset<br />
The story: Melbourne diamond-grading laboratory<br />
Auscert has announced the introduction of a CIBJOcertified,<br />
nine-stone colour masterset.<br />
According to lab owners Anthony Bates and<br />
Monica Crofts, the set took much time and<br />
money to assemble. To qualify as a CIBJO<br />
masterset, every diamond has to be submitted for<br />
comparison against the C1 set held at the SSEF<br />
in Basel, Switzerland. “The C1 set is the largest<br />
diamond masterset in the world,” Bates said. “Every<br />
major laboratory has a master set built against<br />
Rising gold prices<br />
force branch<br />
closures<br />
The story: AGR Matthey <strong>Jeweller</strong>y has<br />
closed its branches in Brisbane and Perth<br />
to compensate for the impact of rising<br />
gold prices. According to a release from the<br />
company, AGR has been hurt by the rising<br />
gold price it has to pay gold producers. This<br />
has resulted in closed branches and staff<br />
cuts across Australia. Despite the branch<br />
closures, a recent statement from AGR<br />
reported it had still managed to sufficiently<br />
improve delivery turnaround times for<br />
customers in WA and Queensland.<br />
these diamonds.” Furthermore, to meet CIBJO<br />
standards, each diamond in the masterset has to<br />
be at least three-quarters of a carat in size and<br />
extremely high clarity.<br />
SWATCH TOPS ONE BILLION<br />
The story: The world’s largest<br />
watchmaker, the Swatch Group,<br />
has announced net income profit<br />
of CHF$1.2 billion (AU$1.6 b) for<br />
2007. According to the company,<br />
this is a record-breaking feat and a<br />
23 per cent gain over 2006 figures.<br />
Gross sales reached almost CHF$6<br />
billion, (AU$8.2 b) rising more than<br />
17 per cent, according to a report in<br />
JCK. “All regions delivered positive<br />
results, with Asia, Europe and the<br />
USA performing particularly well,” the<br />
Swatch report stated, highlighting<br />
that the Swatch Group’s core<br />
segment – watches and jewellery<br />
– “delivered<br />
another strong<br />
performance<br />
in 2007,<br />
posting new<br />
record figures<br />
once again”.<br />
“This extremely<br />
positive trend was already visible in<br />
spring 2007 with the huge demand<br />
and numerous orders received at<br />
the BaselWorld watch and jewellery<br />
show,” the report continued. “All price<br />
segments delivered double-digit<br />
sales growth in 2007, helping boost<br />
profitability across the board.”<br />
Thieves stopped at show<br />
The story: A move by the JAA Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Fair organiser to apprehend a suspicious group may<br />
have prevented theft at the Brisbane fair. Expertise<br />
Events security staff encountered a man allegedly<br />
loitering in the foyer of the exhibition hall on the<br />
second day of the show. The guards apprehended<br />
the man and his associate, who were handed over to<br />
police for questioning. In an inspection of the duo’s<br />
accommodation, police uncovered a third suspect<br />
also taken in for questioning. All three had flown to<br />
Australia from Colombia just three days before the<br />
fair, leading the security guards and police to believe<br />
they were part of an international crime group. It is<br />
well known in the jewellery industry that Colombian<br />
crime gangs target international jewellery fairs,<br />
working largely by deception.<br />
42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
EVENTS<br />
JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR<br />
A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.<br />
MAY<br />
JEWELRY SHANGHAI<br />
Shanghai, China<br />
<strong>May</strong> 9–13<br />
Learn more: newayfairs.com/EN<br />
GAA 71ST FEDERAL<br />
CONFERENCE AND SEMINAR<br />
Hobart, TAS<br />
<strong>May</strong> 3–6<br />
Learn more: gem.org.au<br />
EXPOSOL<br />
INTERNATIONAL FAIR<br />
Soledade, Brazil<br />
<strong>May</strong> 3–6<br />
Learn more: exposol.com.br<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
AFRICA TRIP<br />
Africa<br />
<strong>May</strong> 3–11<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY KOBE<br />
Kobe, Japan<br />
<strong>May</strong> 16–18<br />
Learn more: ijk-fair.jp<br />
INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY<br />
AND WATCH FAIR VIETNAM<br />
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam<br />
<strong>May</strong> 17–20<br />
Learn more: jewelrytradefair.com/<br />
vietnam/fair_details.html<br />
NEW ORLEANS GIFT &<br />
JEWELRY SHOW<br />
New Orleans, US<br />
<strong>May</strong> 18–21<br />
Learn more: helenbrettexhibits.com<br />
THE SANTA FE SYMPOSIUM<br />
Santa Fe, US<br />
<strong>May</strong> 20–23<br />
Learn more: santafesymposium.org<br />
INTERNATIONAL WATCH &<br />
JEWELRY GUILD SHOW<br />
Las Vegas, US<br />
<strong>May</strong> 28–29<br />
Learn more: iwjg.com<br />
JUNE<br />
JCK LAS VEGAS<br />
Las Vegas, US<br />
June 1–4<br />
Learn more: lasvegas.jckonline.com<br />
JUBINALE INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY AND WATCHES<br />
TRADE FAIR<br />
Krakow, Poland<br />
June 7–9<br />
Learn more: jubinale.com/en<br />
HONG KONG JEWELLERY &<br />
GEM FAIR<br />
Hong Kong, China<br />
June 21–24<br />
Learn more: jewellerynetasia.com<br />
JULY<br />
WINTON OPAL TRADESHOW<br />
Winton, QLD<br />
July 13–14<br />
Learn more: qboa.com.au<br />
LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL<br />
AND GEM FESTIVAL<br />
Lightning Ridge, NSW<br />
July 26–29<br />
Learn more: lightningridgeopalfestival.<br />
com.au<br />
AUGUST<br />
AUSTRALIAN OPAL<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
Gold Coast, QLD<br />
August 2–3<br />
Learn more: austopalexpo.com.au<br />
LEADING EDGE GROUP<br />
JEWELLERS MEMBER AND<br />
SUPPLIER CONFERENCE<br />
Sydney, NSW<br />
TBA<br />
SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />
MEMBER AND SUPPLIER<br />
CONFERENCE<br />
Hunter Valley, NSW<br />
August 20–24<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
Sydney, NSW<br />
August 25–27<br />
Learn more: jewelleryfair.com.au/<strong>2018</strong><br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
MEMBER EVENTS<br />
(in conjunction with<br />
International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair)<br />
Sydney, NSW<br />
August 25–27<br />
SEPTEMBER<br />
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY<br />
LONDON<br />
London, UK<br />
September 2–4<br />
Learn more: jewellerylondon.com<br />
HONG KONG WATCH<br />
& CLOCK FAIR<br />
Hong Kong, China<br />
September 4–8<br />
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />
hkwatchfair-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />
Watch-and-Clock-Fair.html<br />
BIJORHCA PARIS<br />
Paris, France<br />
September 7–10<br />
Learn more: bijorhca.com<br />
JEWELLERS AND<br />
WATCHMAKERS OF NEW<br />
ZEALAND TRADE FAIR<br />
Auckland, New Zealand<br />
September 9–10<br />
Learn more: jwnz.co.nz<br />
BANGKOK GEMS<br />
& JEWELRY FAIR<br />
Bangkok, Thailand<br />
TBA<br />
Learn more: bkkgems.com<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
ANTWERP TRIP<br />
Antwerp, Belgium<br />
September 22–28<br />
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY<br />
TOKYO AUTUMN<br />
Yokohama, Japan<br />
September 24–26<br />
Learn more: ijt-aki.jp<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43
MY BENCH<br />
Laura Pivovaroff<br />
WORKS AT:<br />
Wishart <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
AGE: 22<br />
YEARS IN TRADE: 6 years<br />
TRAINING: Certificate III in<br />
jewellery manufacture<br />
OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:<br />
Diploma in Gemmology<br />
Favourite gemstone:<br />
Impossible to decide!<br />
Favourite metal:<br />
18-carat yellow gold, as<br />
I love the warmth and<br />
richness of the colour.<br />
Favourite tool:<br />
Blow torch. The heat control<br />
and and what you can<br />
achieve with it is something<br />
that constantly amazes me.<br />
Best part of job:<br />
Knowing that you played<br />
a small part in some of the<br />
happiest days of a person’s<br />
life.<br />
Worst part of job:<br />
Cleaning customer’s<br />
jewellery that’s never been<br />
taken off.<br />
Best tip from a jeweller:<br />
Perfect each component<br />
before moving on to the<br />
next because accuracy is<br />
everything!<br />
Best tip to a jeweller:<br />
If you love what you do,<br />
you’ll never work a day in<br />
your life...my tip is to aim<br />
for this.<br />
Biggest health concern on<br />
the bench:<br />
Dust – breathing abrasives<br />
like emery and polish can’t<br />
be great for the lungs.<br />
Love jewellery because:<br />
It’s wearable art! I love being<br />
part of something that will<br />
be loved by generations to<br />
come.<br />
My bench is always:<br />
Immaculately organised,<br />
because work benches are<br />
claustrophobic enough<br />
without any extra clutter.
Instant online quoting<br />
Overnight printing<br />
Overnight casting<br />
Fastest job turnaround in Australia<br />
Turnaround your castings faster<br />
Traditional and Digital Casting Professionals!<br />
www.rapidcasting.com.au<br />
Add Rapid to your Bench.<br />
Are you looking for a professional, reliable,<br />
fully trackable casting company?<br />
Trackable casting and jewellery CAD/CAM services. Visit our website for instant quotes and ordering.<br />
C A D<br />
+61 2 9557 9468<br />
info@rapidcasting.com.au<br />
®
SOAPBOX<br />
WE’VE FORGOTTEN THE CUSTOMER IS IMPORTANT<br />
I’ve been through five recessions since<br />
I started my jewellery apprenticeship<br />
in 1963. There was a lot of pressure on<br />
jewellers during recessions; the one in<br />
the 1980s was very damning – we were<br />
paying 25 per cent for business finance<br />
among other things. But we survived it,<br />
because we took care of our customers.<br />
Today, I think we’ve forgotten the client is<br />
more important than anything else. Without<br />
them we have nothing – so we should treat<br />
them like they’re princesses and princes.<br />
You see, private banks or shareholders own<br />
most of the chain stores, and it’s common<br />
now to go into a store where people are too<br />
busy to serve you – they’re either on their<br />
phone or socialising.<br />
Many ‘traditional’ businesses are gone,<br />
but we independent and manufacturing<br />
jewellers have survived. We can still provide<br />
a place that holds up highly esteemed,<br />
quality service. The kind that when you go<br />
in, you know you’re going to be attended<br />
to. You’ll be given that feeling that you’re a<br />
most welcome client.<br />
Yes, we get frustrated when customers walk<br />
in the door with something they bought<br />
from a chain store that now needs repairing;<br />
and when we say we want $100 to fix it,<br />
they say “but I only paid $200 for it”. In this<br />
situation, sometimes it feels like you’re<br />
wasting your time – but we still need to give<br />
these people quality service.<br />
In the ‘old days’, people used to walk into a<br />
jewellery store and get service for ‘nothing’.<br />
It’s an old tradition, but the next generation<br />
of jewellers don’t understand this because<br />
they feel they need to make money out of<br />
everybody who walks in the door.<br />
I still see it in stores that I call on: people<br />
walk in and they want advice for free. “How<br />
much is this piece of gold worth? Would<br />
you buy it? How much is so-and-so, I want<br />
an evaluation done but I don’t want it for<br />
insurance. I don’t want to pay, just tell me<br />
what it’s worth”. I still see and hear these<br />
questions almost every day.<br />
I have a regular customer who first came<br />
into my store years ago, looking somewhat<br />
scruffy. But he would put anything from<br />
$2,000 upwards on the counter regularly,<br />
two to three times a year. Recently he said<br />
to me, ”You’ve never looked down on me,<br />
and you’ve always served me,” and I said,<br />
“Yes, because you’re important to me.”<br />
The same goes for every one of my<br />
customers. If they go away unhappy, they’re<br />
going to tell people; but if I can help them<br />
with a $5 or $10 watch battery, they might<br />
tell their friends. And I don’t know what<br />
business they might ultimately bring me.<br />
At the end of the day it’s important to give<br />
the best service you can offer. Get training,<br />
or employ somebody that is trained. There’s<br />
still a terrible image of jewellers being<br />
crooks, after the media ran stories about<br />
diamonds being swapped and items being<br />
overpriced. We have to build trust and<br />
confidence with customers again.<br />
I can honestly say that in 50 years, I’ve<br />
never failed to get someone to hand over<br />
anything from a $5 piece to a $100,000<br />
piece for repair and have them say with<br />
confidence, “I trust you. You’ve given me the<br />
I CAN HONESTLY<br />
SAY THAT IN 50<br />
YEARS, I’VE NEVER<br />
FAILED TO GET<br />
SOMEONE TO HAND<br />
OVER ANYTHING<br />
FROM A $5 PIECE<br />
TO A $100,000 PIECE<br />
FOR REPAIR<br />
reasons why I need to have this fixed, you’ve<br />
done drawings for me, and you’ve shown<br />
me what needs to be done”.<br />
Sometimes helping someone can be<br />
that simple. I draw what a claw looks like,<br />
and then let the woman see under an<br />
eyeglass that the claw is broken. Then she<br />
understands what she’s paying for, and she’ll<br />
pay $200 to have it repaired.<br />
Customers need to know what work is<br />
actually being done on a product. After all,<br />
that gives them satisfaction and security,<br />
especially when they see the person who’s<br />
going to work on it.<br />
I think we’ve allowed ourselves to be caught<br />
up in the ‘quick sell, make money situation’.<br />
We’ve forgotten how to sell ourselves and<br />
our expertise to the satisfaction of our client,<br />
so that they trust us to do the job right, at<br />
any price we can offer them. They don’t<br />
have to be done for nothing or cheaply;<br />
but when the correctly trained person<br />
speaks to them, and we take the time to<br />
help them understand more about the<br />
process, you’ll get them to pay the right<br />
price – and top price.<br />
My motto is: “Diamonds are not the girl’s<br />
best friend – the real jeweller is.” i<br />
Name: Bruce Rosewarne<br />
Business: Bruce R Rosewarne, FGAA<br />
Position: owner/director<br />
Location: Mooloolaba, QLD<br />
Years in the industry: 55<br />
Got something to get off your chest about the jewellery<br />
industry? Let us know! editorial@jewellermagazine.com<br />
46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2018</strong>
Seeing is<br />
believing<br />
A world of sparkling<br />
opportunities.<br />
Perhaps you are<br />
looking forward to<br />
our free presentations<br />
or meeting with<br />
industry bodies?<br />
<strong>May</strong>be you are keen<br />
to network within<br />
your industry?<br />
Or maybe you are<br />
excited to see the<br />
largest collection of<br />
wholesale jewellery<br />
in Australia.<br />
You will experience<br />
it all and more at<br />
the fair.<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
pms 2935 C<br />
Organised by<br />
August 25 > 27, <strong>2018</strong><br />
ICC Sydney<br />
Exhibition Centre<br />
Darling Harbour
SAMS SAMS GROUP<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Live Live Life Life Colourfully<br />
Natural Fancy Coloured Diamonds<br />
The perfect The perfect expression expression of individuality, of show show your your true true colours colours with with natural natural fancy fancy coloured coloured<br />
diamonds. diamonds. Natural Natural fancy fancy coloured coloured diamonds diamonds are the are rarest the rarest and most and most beautiful beautiful of nature’s of nature’s treasures. treasures.<br />
All GIA All certified, GIA certified, beautifully beautifully cut and cut in and breathtaking colours colours - call - us call now us now to find to out find more. out more.<br />
E pink@samsgroup.com.au E W samsgroup.com.au W P 02 P 9290 02 9290 2199 2199