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Jeweller - March 2024

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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY MARCH <strong>2024</strong><br />

Youth Movement<br />

SECURE THE LOYALTY OF THE<br />

NEXT GENERATION OF CONSUMERS<br />

Time for Change<br />

LEARN ABOUT THE TRENDS<br />

EXPECTED TO DEFINE WATCHES IN <strong>2024</strong><br />

Show & Tell<br />

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MARCH <strong>2024</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

15 Editorial<br />

28<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>March</strong> 2014<br />

16 Upfront<br />

31<br />

LEARN ABOUT GEMS<br />

Game-Changing Gemmologists: VII<br />

18 News<br />

70<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Alex Hamilton<br />

41 FASHION JEWELLERY<br />

Exciting opportunities<br />

55 Show & Tell<br />

72<br />

SOAPBOX<br />

Marion van der Krogt<br />

Fashion jewellery offers retailers the<br />

opportunity to forge a connection with<br />

the next generation of consumers.<br />

Features<br />

32<br />

41<br />

47<br />

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT - ADDENDUM<br />

What's going on in Queensland?<br />

FASHION JEWELLERY<br />

Improve your connection with the next generation<br />

WATCH TRENDS<br />

Industry analysts voice their thoughts on the year ahead<br />

Better Your Business<br />

47 WATCH TRENDS<br />

Time for change<br />

It's shaping up to be a year to remember for<br />

the watch industry, with long-entrenched icons<br />

challenged by new and innovative brands.<br />

64<br />

66<br />

67<br />

68<br />

BUSINESS STRATEGY<br />

How do you improve your business? RYAN ESTIS asks four key questions.<br />

SELLING<br />

DAVID BROWN explains the difference between product and sales training.<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

You know what they say about assumptions? DALE FURTWENGLER offers advice.<br />

MARKETING & PR<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND DUNN questions how well you know your customers.<br />

32 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

Beautiful one day,<br />

perfect the next<br />

In the latest addendum to <strong>Jeweller</strong>'s <strong>2024</strong><br />

State of the Industry Report, the complex and<br />

often baffling retail landscape of Queensland<br />

is put under the microscope.<br />

55 SHOW & TELL BUYING GUIDE<br />

Latest and greatest<br />

Learn all about the latest new products<br />

from industry leading suppliers ahead<br />

of the Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair on<br />

the Gold Coast.<br />

69<br />

LOGGED ON<br />

SIMON DELL explains the inner workings of social media algorithms.<br />

FRONT COVER<br />

For more than 130 years, EDOX watches<br />

have combined ultimate precision with<br />

ingenious solutions – even for the most<br />

demanding activities: be it above or below<br />

the water surface, in the eternal ice or<br />

even on glowing desert sand. Any timing<br />

instrument from EDOX carrying the<br />

legendary hourglass logo will meet even<br />

the highest demands of its owner.<br />

Learn more: dgau.com.au/edox<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 13


T H E W A T E R C H A M P I O N<br />

Forged from the same rugged DNA as its<br />

predecessor, the new Neptunian Grande<br />

Réserve features a scratch-resistant<br />

ceramic bezel and sapphire crystal. At the<br />

heart of this new Neptunian lies the new<br />

calibre 808, which boasts a generous 68-<br />

hour power reserve (réserve de marche in<br />

French). With this remarkable improvement,<br />

the Neptunian Grande Réserve is tailored<br />

to excel both in and out of the water.<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />

14 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


Editor’s Desk<br />

Stating the bleeding obvious: Who can you trust?<br />

Many trade associations fail to uphold the standards they set themselves.<br />

SAMUEL ORD discusses an ongoing issue facing the jewellery industry.<br />

One of the hardest lessons we learn is to<br />

be cautious of people who utter the words,<br />

“Trust me.” The same rule applies to<br />

anyone who says, “Believe me”.<br />

These are off-handed statements people<br />

liberally use; however, they betray a profound<br />

fear. It's a suspicion that they need to<br />

demand your confidence for one reason or<br />

another.<br />

We must be wary of people who make<br />

claims about things that should be implicit.<br />

Trust and faith are the foundations of the<br />

jewellery industry. The international diamond<br />

industry was built on trust; one only needs<br />

to consider the concept of “appro”. In turn,<br />

retailers must be able to trust suppliers, and<br />

consumers must trust retailers.<br />

Maintaining this trust is crucial to the<br />

longevity of the jewellery industry. Yet,<br />

we find so many people – particularly in<br />

positions of ‘authority’ - routinely threatening<br />

to undermine this faith by failing to adhere to<br />

the standards they publicly set themselves.<br />

Transparency, ethics, provenance,<br />

truthfulness and leadership are common<br />

corporate buzzwords that have entered all<br />

industries; however, they are particularly<br />

prominent in the jewellery industry.<br />

Sadly, the more people, businesses, and<br />

even industry organisations use these terms,<br />

the less likely they appear meaningful.<br />

It goes without saying that transparency<br />

and ethical behaviour are important, as<br />

are truthfulness and leadership; however,<br />

I am continually amazed at the number of<br />

organisations in this industry that do not<br />

practice what they preach.<br />

As an example, consider the World<br />

Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and<br />

its track record of missteps and problems.<br />

The WFDB website states that it promotes<br />

“trust, transparency and integrity among all<br />

members of the industry.”<br />

In early February, the WFDB distributed a<br />

press release making claims about a legal<br />

decision in France to “ban the use of all<br />

terminology other than synthetic for nonnatural<br />

diamonds.”<br />

Although this appeared to be an important<br />

development for the diamond industry,<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> could only find one outlet covering<br />

the story – and the details were sparse.<br />

On 12 February, director of communications<br />

Sharon Gefen was contacted to verify the<br />

WFDB’s claims. A request was made for<br />

any background information used to prepare<br />

the press release because <strong>Jeweller</strong> could<br />

not locate any official announcements from<br />

French government sources.<br />

Ms Gefen replied, stating that the<br />

information for the press release came from<br />

the “French and US media”, confirming that<br />

she had not used government information.<br />

Additionally, she did not provide source links<br />

or any further information as requested.<br />

On 13 February, the request was repeated<br />

– pointing out that we could not verify any<br />

of the WDBF’s claims. Ms Gefen was asked<br />

if she could direct us to any news reports<br />

she had seen detailing the matter. In an<br />

extraordinary reply, she said, “I suggest you<br />

use Google to find the media reports.”<br />

In more than a decade of working in the<br />

media, I’ve never encountered a response<br />

of this nature. Organisations are usually<br />

eager to ‘spread the word’ about their topic<br />

of interest – particularly when they have<br />

already issued a press release addressing it!<br />

The WDBF’s president, Yoram Dvash,<br />

was contacted and asked if this was an<br />

acceptable way for a media representative to<br />

communicate with the international media.<br />

This was particularly important given the<br />

WDBF had made claims for which it was<br />

now refusing to provide evidence.<br />

The WDBF effectively alleged that many<br />

French jewellery companies were routinely<br />

breaking the law.<br />

Three factors were taken into consideration:<br />

the lack of details in the release, the timing<br />

of the release following the publication of a<br />

story online similarly devoid of detail, and<br />

the reluctance of Ms Gefen to provide any<br />

background information. It seemed plausible<br />

that the press release may have even been<br />

issued due to said story.<br />

Mr Dvash never responded; however, in what<br />

appeared to be an embarrassing attempt<br />

to save face, Ms Gefen would later send<br />

a follow-up email containing snippets of<br />

background information.<br />

Unfortunately, several industry publications<br />

published the WDBF’s claims – many<br />

verbatim – without questioning their<br />

accuracy or veracity.<br />

These are<br />

off-handed<br />

statements<br />

people liberally<br />

use; however,<br />

they betray a<br />

profound fear.<br />

It's a suspicion<br />

that they need<br />

to demand your<br />

confidence for<br />

one reason or<br />

another.<br />

They chose to accept the word of the WDBF<br />

unchallenged.<br />

In the weeks that have followed since that<br />

exchange, at least two media organisations<br />

have published thorough reports detailing the<br />

intricacies of the ruling, which cast further<br />

doubt over the WDBF’s media release.<br />

That is to say, none of these intricacies – such<br />

as the fact that it was a decision to uphold a<br />

ruling from 2002 and not the introduction of<br />

a new legislation - were ever reflected in the<br />

initial WFDB press release.<br />

The brief 200-word statement – the majority<br />

of which was not about the French decision –<br />

and the unwillingness of the WFDB to provide<br />

source material raised questions about how<br />

thoroughly the federation even understood<br />

the matter before issuing a public opinion.<br />

It was a shocking sequence of events from an<br />

organisation that claims to promote “trust,<br />

transparency and integrity."<br />

I’ve been with <strong>Jeweller</strong> for two years, and in<br />

that time, I’ve witnessed a surprising number<br />

of ‘industry-leading’ associations fail to<br />

adhere to their self-described standards.<br />

The Diamond Dealers Club of Australia has<br />

refused to provide membership figures, as<br />

did the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia.<br />

The Responsible <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Council did<br />

not acknowledge issues with its online<br />

membership directory, which contained<br />

hundreds of incomplete records and listed<br />

companies that appeared not to exist.<br />

These organisations will gladly tell you<br />

the importance of ethics, transparency,<br />

truthfulness and leadership – and yet, when<br />

asked simple questions about membership<br />

figures, they are suddenly silent on<br />

‘transparency'. Why?<br />

It's as if transparency and truthfulness must<br />

relate to your business but not theirs!<br />

These moments of weakness threaten the<br />

overarching trust within the industry, and one<br />

can only wonder what kind of flow-on effects<br />

these incidents have on consumer trust in an<br />

industry already burdened by misconception.<br />

So why do we see this endless parade of<br />

supposed values, and what causes so many<br />

of these industry bodies to fall short when<br />

asked basic questions?<br />

SAMUEL ORD<br />

EDITOR<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 15


Upfront<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Six and out<br />

Based in Surat, India,<br />

Diamond Tech Company has<br />

crafted a natural rough diamond<br />

into a 1.04-carat polished stone<br />

resembling a cricket bat. The<br />

diamond's ‘skin’ has deliberately<br />

been left intact on the handle and<br />

elsewhere as proof that it is not a<br />

lab-created stone. The diamond is<br />

a gift from an unnamed fan to Virat<br />

Kohli, former captain of the Indian<br />

national cricket team. His name<br />

had been inscribed on the diamond.<br />

JLO makes a statement<br />

In the music video for her<br />

latest single, Can't Get Enough,<br />

US popstar Jennifer Lopez wears<br />

a diamond necklace valued at<br />

$US340,000. The Eka Mia Luca piece<br />

is from a collection by the Italian<br />

brand Fope. Fope was founded<br />

in 1919 by Umberto Cazzola,<br />

who opened his first goldsmith's<br />

workshop in Vicenza, Italy. Lopez<br />

is no stranger to fine jewellery - in<br />

2023, she more than 235 carats of<br />

diamonds to the Grammys.<br />

Sunken treasures<br />

Emerald jewellery that<br />

lay undiscovered at the bottom of<br />

the sea for more than 360 years has<br />

been displayed in New York City.<br />

A royal orb, a cross on a necklace,<br />

and a ring have been purchased<br />

by Muzo Emerald Colombia, the<br />

company that operates the mine<br />

where the emeralds were originally<br />

mined. These pieces were on<br />

board the galleon Nuestra Senora<br />

de Atocha, packed with gold and<br />

silver, when it sank in 1622 during a<br />

hurricane in Florida.<br />

Rewind: Best Bench Tip<br />

NOVEMBER 2015<br />

“If you make a mistake,<br />

start again.”<br />

DAVID MANSFIELD<br />

DAVIS MANSFIELD<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

HISTORIC GEMSTONE<br />

The Regent Diamond<br />

The Regent Diamond is a 140-carat<br />

diamond owned by the French state<br />

and displayed in the Louvre. The<br />

origins of the diamond are unknown;<br />

however, according to legend, it was<br />

unearthed by an enslaved man in the<br />

Kollur Mine near the Krishna River.<br />

The man supposedly concealed the<br />

diamond in a leg wound, which he<br />

suffered while fleeing the siege of Golconda. Following his escape, he<br />

made it to the Indian coast, where he met a sea captain who offered<br />

him half of the profits from the diamond sale in exchange for safe<br />

passage out of India. However, the sea captain betrayed the man and<br />

killed him, eventually selling the diamond to a merchant in India. The<br />

diamond is said to be cursed as a result of the betrayal.<br />

Will your<br />

business enjoy<br />

the benefits<br />

of automation?<br />

Retail workforce shortages in<br />

Australia are well-documented,<br />

and businesses increasingly turn<br />

to automation as a solution. In<br />

<strong>2024</strong>, this is expected to extend<br />

well beyond self-serve checkout<br />

stations. Automation is making a<br />

mark in warehousing, inventory<br />

management, and ordering. A<br />

recent study from US-based market<br />

researchers McKinsey & Company<br />

suggests that 52 per cent of all retail<br />

responsibilities can be automated<br />

with existing technology. This leads<br />

to reduced human errors, improved<br />

service quality for customers, rising<br />

employee productivity, and reduced<br />

business expenses.<br />

Timeless Trends<br />

Earrings are only getting bigger and<br />

bolder in <strong>2024</strong>. Classic designs such<br />

as hoop and drop earrings continue<br />

to be preferred among jewellery<br />

lovers; however, you can expect to see<br />

more styles throughout <strong>2024</strong>. Large<br />

chandelier earrings that were popular<br />

among stars such as JLO and Beyonce<br />

are back in a big way.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

Pandora has released a new<br />

marketing campaign, ‘Be Love', which<br />

features a global roster of artists,<br />

actresses, and musicians. The campaign<br />

will promote a range of Pandora<br />

collections, including sterling silver and<br />

14-carat gold designs, Murano glass,<br />

and lab-created diamond jewellery.<br />

The campaign's global ambassadors will<br />

include artists Chloe and Halle Bailey and<br />

author Selma Blair, among others.<br />

Image: Vogue<br />

Image: Pandora<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Production Prince Bisenio art@befindanmedia.com • Digital Coordinator Riza Buliag riza@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.


Count on Chemgold<br />

Experience Unmatched Service & Reliability<br />

METALS | CASTING | CAD/CAM | REFINING<br />

FINDINGS | ENGRAVING<br />

1300 984 751<br />

sales@chemgold.com | www.chemgold.com<br />

Servicing Australia & New Zealand


News<br />

News<br />

Iconic Australian jeweller<br />

creates PM's engagement ring<br />

Sales momentum: Pandora shines in holiday season<br />

In an unusual first for Australian politics, Prime<br />

Minister Anthony Albanese announced his engagement<br />

to partner Jodie Haydon on Valentine’s Day.<br />

Albanese broke the news by posting a picture of<br />

the pair on social media with the caption, “She said<br />

yes”. Depending on the timing of the event, he is<br />

expected to be the first Australian prime minister to<br />

get married while in office.<br />

Speculation immediately arose around the specifics<br />

of the custom-made diamond ring Haydon has since<br />

been seen wearing.<br />

Albanese revealed that he chose Cerrone <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

in Leichhardt, New South Wales, for the ring.<br />

While the specifics of the piece remain uncertain,<br />

it’s believed to be a three-carat round brilliant cut<br />

diamond set in an 18-carat rose bold band.<br />

“I sat down with him [Nicola Cerrone] and his<br />

daughter and went through what it would look like<br />

to design, and then we exchanged ideas about that,<br />

and they put it together,” Albanese told Nova FM.<br />

Pandora has published its fourth-quarter<br />

financial report detailing a strong increase in<br />

sales during a successful holiday season.<br />

Revenue increased by 9 per cent on a year-onyear<br />

comparison in the fourth quarter, achieving<br />

sales of DKK10.82 billion ($AU2.39 billion).<br />

Online sales improved by 13 per cent, while profit<br />

increased by seven per cent. CEO Alexander<br />

Lacik said that the company was particularly<br />

pleased with Black Friday and Christmas sales.<br />

“We are very pleased with how we ended 2023<br />

with strong trading across the holiday season,”<br />

he said.<br />

"Looking back at the past two years since we<br />

launched the Phoenix growth strategy, we<br />

are proud of how our strategic initiatives have<br />

come together to consistently drive strong<br />

results despite the challenging macroeconomic<br />

backdrop. In <strong>2024</strong>, we target continued solid<br />

and profitable growth as we execute on the next<br />

chapter of Phoenix.”<br />

Sales remained strong in the US and UK, paired<br />

with a decline in China. Full-year sales improved<br />

by six per cent to DKK28.14 billion ($AU6.23<br />

billion), while profit declined by six per cent.<br />

Revenue in Australia declined by six per cent in<br />

the fourth quarter on a year-on-year comparison.<br />

The company anticipates revenue to increase by<br />

between six and nine per cent this year.<br />

Pandora recently released a new marketing<br />

campaign featuring various musicians,<br />

actresses, and artists.<br />

Lovisa: Strong sales as global expansion continues<br />

“And that’s special because it’s one of a kind, which<br />

is the sort of work that Cerrone produces, and it’s<br />

made in Grayndler in the inner west of Sydney,<br />

which I’m really proud of as well.”<br />

In April of last year, Nicola Cerrone was presented<br />

with a Medal of the Order of Australia at a ceremony<br />

at Government House.<br />

He was acknowledged for his contributions to<br />

Australia’s arts, manufacturing and business sectors.<br />

Albanese added: “He’s an amazing jeweller, and he<br />

employs these extraordinary artists and has always<br />

employed apprentices. I really admire the way he is so<br />

passionate about the Australian industry. And he exports<br />

to the world as well as supplies here in Australia.”<br />

Cerrone oversees Australia’s largest handmade jewellery<br />

workshop, with an emphasis on elevating the next<br />

generation of artisans with apprenticeship programs.<br />

Australian fashion jewellery chain Lovisa has<br />

published another impressive sales report,<br />

documenting a significant increase amid<br />

international expansion.<br />

Lovisa reported an 18.2 per cent increase<br />

in sales in the first half of the financial year,<br />

reaching $373 million. The company opened 74<br />

new stores during the six-month period and now<br />

operates in more than 40 countries worldwide.<br />

The company has opened nine additional stores<br />

since the start of the year, taking the network to<br />

860. <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s <strong>2024</strong> State of the Industry Report<br />

documented 175 stores in Australia.<br />

“The company has continued to deliver solid<br />

sales and profit growth and invested in the<br />

structures to support our steady global<br />

expansion,” CEO Victor Herrero said.<br />

“This positions us strongly to move forward with<br />

growth in both existing and new markets.”<br />

Lovisa’s operating profit improved by 16.3 per<br />

cent to $81.6 million. The company reported<br />

a record 33.1 per cent increase in revenue<br />

for the past financial year, achieving sales of<br />

$596.5 million.<br />

18 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


News<br />

Membership blow: Major jewellery chain quits JAA, membership figures still unknown<br />

One of Australia’s oldest jewellery businesses<br />

has cancelled its membership with the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Association of Australia (JAA).<br />

Bevilles has been the ‘talk of the town’ over the past<br />

12 months following its acquisition by Michael Hill<br />

International in April last year.<br />

At the time, CEO Daniel Bracken announced plans<br />

to open more than 80 new Bevilles stores before<br />

2028, including expansion into New Zealand and<br />

Canada, forecasting an optimistic future for a<br />

business founded in 1934.<br />

Unfortunately, the JAA will not benefit from this<br />

expansion. On Thursday, a spokesperson for<br />

Michael Hill International confirmed that it had not<br />

renewed the Bevilles JAA membership.<br />

It’s the latest in a long-running trend of larger<br />

jewellery businesses disassociating themselves<br />

from the industry association. In past years,<br />

small-to-medium jewellery chains such as Shiels,<br />

Hoskings, and Anthony’s have deserted the JAA.<br />

Indeed, even large chains such as Pandora,<br />

Zamels and even the former ASX-listed retailer<br />

Angus & Coote - and Michael Hill also - were once<br />

members; however, all major jewellery chains have<br />

slowly abandoned the JAA.<br />

Last man standing<br />

The cost of JAA membership is based on the<br />

number of stores operated by the retailer, which<br />

means the larger the store count, the larger the<br />

annual membership fee.<br />

With Bevilles (30 stores) no longer listed on the JAA<br />

website, Salera’s has been left as the ‘last man<br />

standing’ regarding jewellery chains supporting the<br />

association.<br />

Managing director Frank Salera was a JAA board<br />

member for several years, joining in January 2016.<br />

With that said, in another embarrassing twist, the<br />

'Find a JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>' online directory page lists<br />

Salera’s stores that don’t exist.<br />

The <strong>2024</strong> State of the Industry Report recorded 17<br />

Salera’s stores in Australia, with five in Queensland<br />

and 12 in Victoria. The JAA website records 20<br />

Salera’s stores.<br />

Three of the stores listed on the JAA website have<br />

not operated for some time, and one phone number<br />

is answered by another retail business.<br />

Definition debate<br />

This situation calls into question some of the claims<br />

made by the JAA, which could put the association<br />

at odds with the Australian Competition and<br />

Consumer Commission (ACCC), namely Section 18<br />

of Australian Consumer Law<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> previously estimated the number of<br />

retail members at the end of 2023 to be 316 –<br />

representing around 350 stores – while the JAA’s<br />

website claims “a current membership of around<br />

650 outlets.”<br />

Although the online directory has been updated to<br />

remove Bevilles stores following the resignation,<br />

the ‘650 outlets’ claim remains on the website<br />

today - and that is without taking into account the<br />

inflated figure for Salera’s stores and any other<br />

possible errors.<br />

While it may be the loss of just one member with 30<br />

stores, the loss accounts for an immediate decline<br />

of around eight per cent for the JAA’s store count.<br />

Membership figures remain unknown<br />

Despite attempts to clarify the association’s current<br />

membership figures as part of the <strong>2024</strong> State of the<br />

Industry Report, exact details remain unclear.<br />

The last membership figure provided was JAA<br />

president Joshua Sharp estimating that the<br />

association had “around 400” members for 2022.<br />

As documented in the SOIR, the JAA was unwilling<br />

to provide its current membership and store<br />

figures for the 2023 calendar year despite multiple<br />

requests from <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

For that reason, researchers calculated<br />

membership at around 316 using the JAA website<br />

after removing faulty data and duplicate records.<br />

The JAA has not disputed or corrected this figure.<br />

Some members appearing on the directory page<br />

had closed their stores or were no longer in<br />

business despite remaining on the JAA website.<br />

As noted above, the JAA website still states: “With a<br />

current membership of around 650 outlets and the<br />

median length of membership being 19 years, the<br />

JAA covers all areas of the jewellery industry – from<br />

manufacturing, wholesaling, distribution to retail".<br />

The terminology “outlets” is interesting because<br />

the JAA has always recorded actual paid members<br />

in its annual financial statements, which were on<br />

the public record with the Australian Charities and<br />

Not-for-profits Commission (ACNC).<br />

In a separate controversy, the JAA recently<br />

contravened reporting regulations with the<br />

ACNC when it failed to report amendments to its<br />

Constitution within the required timeframe.<br />

That aside, the JAA's membership figures are no<br />

longer made public on the ACNC website, which is<br />

why <strong>Jeweller</strong> requested the data directly from the<br />

association.<br />

Furthermore, while it’s true that one member may<br />

represent many stores, it’s worth noting that the<br />

JAA has not had more than 650 members since<br />

2016 (744).<br />

When questioned about this matter, JAA operations<br />

manager Megan Young gave an unusual response:<br />

“Outlet means a point of distribution, including but<br />

not limited to retail and wholesale.”<br />

Essentially, this means the JAA can call anything<br />

an 'outlet'.<br />

The conventional definition of an 'outlet' is: “a store,<br />

shop or other commercial establishment selling<br />

goods direct to the public, often from a single<br />

manufacturer or producer.”<br />

Young was also asked to provide a breakdown<br />

of the JAA’s membership in terms of retailers<br />

(physical stores and online) and supplier/<br />

wholesaler members.<br />

This was to determine how the figure of '650<br />

outlets' was reached, given that students, retired<br />

members, associates, etc, would not be deemed an<br />

outlet based on the definition provided.<br />

Young did not respond to this request at the time<br />

of publication.<br />

The use of the word ‘outlets’ was deemed worthy<br />

of further consideration not only because of its<br />

questionable accuracy but also because the JAA is<br />

a 'member-based association', not an 'outlet-based<br />

organisation'.<br />

Indeed, it would seem unusual that a memberbased<br />

association would not list its membership<br />

figures – arguably, it should form the basis of its<br />

industry marketing program. Instead, the JAA is not<br />

open about the matter despite calling for "trust and<br />

truthfulness" and transparency in the industry.<br />

In 2010, the JAA represented 1,039 retail jewellery<br />

stores, around 20 per cent of the market.<br />

With the loss of another chain - along with the<br />

inflated Salera’s store count and any other<br />

potential errors - it’s likely that JAA members now<br />

account for closer to 300 stores or around 8 per<br />

cent of the market.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> will publish the updated figures if and<br />

when the JAA corrects this information and/or<br />

provides exact data.<br />

MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 19


News<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailers explore new approach to diamond supply<br />

Purchasing diamonds has always been burdensome<br />

for many retailers, with issues such as capital<br />

investment, quality control, and unexpected<br />

shortages leading to severe headaches.<br />

A new diamond supplier has expanded its business<br />

to Australia and New Zealand, intending to solve<br />

many of these issues with an innovative new servicebased<br />

model for retailers.<br />

Canada’s HRA Group has launched Dialog, dubbed<br />

the world’s first ‘subscription service’ for diamond<br />

jewellery retailers.<br />

The process is simple - retailers subscribe to Dialog<br />

for a monthly fee. Dialog then provides retailers with<br />

anywhere between $100,000 and $5 million in stock/<br />

inventory – loose stones and finished jewellery -<br />

which is held in-store by the retailer.<br />

The monthly fee is 1 per cent of the total inventory<br />

value up to $350,000, with the fee declining to 0.8<br />

per cent beyond that.<br />

The retailer pays the wholesale price only after a<br />

diamond or jewellery piece is sold. A replacement<br />

can be sent within 24-48 hours with no associated<br />

fee for replenishing stock levels.<br />

Pricing is reviewed quarterly to ensure it is<br />

competitively priced against the market, and if<br />

needed, any amendments are communicated to<br />

retailers so they can adjust their pricing accordingly.<br />

When a diamond or jewellery piece is sold, the<br />

retailer receives an additional two per cent rebate,<br />

which is deducted from the monthly subscription fee.<br />

Dialog was launched in 2020 by co-founders Itay<br />

Ariel, Reut Rothstein, and Aaron Ariel.<br />

Rothstein said the company’s approach has been<br />

slow and steady, and it is hoping to build long-term<br />

relationships with suitable retailers.<br />

“Most of our growth has been by word-of-mouth<br />

so far. We currently have around 200 stores on<br />

Dialog, and we usually partner with new retailers<br />

due to recommendations from their friends,” she<br />

told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“The most common feedback we receive is that<br />

we’ve freed up more time for retailers. Most<br />

business owners are responsible for stock<br />

management, so things like travelling overseas<br />

for buying trips and time-intensive quality control<br />

procedures are no longer necessary.”<br />

Rothstein said that the most high-profile<br />

endorsement of Dialog so far has been US chain<br />

Ben Bridge Jeweler, which has 35 stores. She<br />

explains that each store services a unique market,<br />

so a custom merchandise mix is generated for<br />

every location.<br />

To determine the optimal merchandise mix, routine<br />

sales analysis is performed by Dialog to build<br />

custom recommendations for retailers.<br />

A new Australian division of HRA Group has been<br />

established in Australia. It is headed by director<br />

of sales Nicole Bender, who explained that there<br />

are several key differences between Dialog and<br />

traditional ‘call stones’ or consignment agreements.<br />

Firstly, the diamonds and jewellery are held by<br />

the retailer in-store indefinitely, with no sense of<br />

urgency or ‘rush to sell’ because Dialog will not<br />

request a return of inventory.<br />

In addition, jewellers are free to set loose diamonds<br />

in any jewellery they like, and retailers can request<br />

any diamonds or jewellery available in the Dialog<br />

inventory. Retailers can also return diamonds or<br />

jewellery to Dialog at any time – there’s no obligation<br />

to stock specific inventory.<br />

“We’ve recently expanded into Australia, and we<br />

have a few really good retailers on board already.<br />

So far, the reception has been really positive from<br />

everybody that we’ve spoken to,” Bender said.<br />

“The message that stands out the most is that<br />

many people have never heard of something<br />

like this – it really is something new to the<br />

market and the industry.<br />

“Because of this, some people find it difficult to<br />

grasp the service initially – because it can seem<br />

too good to be true. They often jokingly ask what<br />

the catch is.”<br />

She continued: “The only thing I have to say to<br />

that is that the whole premise of the program is<br />

to sell more diamonds and diamond jewellery, and<br />

that’s why we are looking for the right retailers<br />

to work with. We do well if they do well; it’s as<br />

simple as that.”<br />

Dialog owns all inventory/stock and is not a thirdparty<br />

aggregator, with a six-month trial available. If<br />

the service doesn’t fit the business, the diamonds<br />

are returned to Dialog and subscription fees are<br />

refunded to the retailer.


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News<br />

Gold Coast jewellery trade show sold out<br />

Hot on the heels of the successful<br />

Melbourne <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Expo earlier this<br />

month, Expertise Events is set to open<br />

its second trade show for the year.<br />

The Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair (AJF),<br />

scheduled for 24-25 <strong>March</strong> at the<br />

Gold Coast Convention Centre, sold<br />

out weeks ago.<br />

With nearly 70 individual exhibitors,<br />

the <strong>2024</strong> AJF will launch under the<br />

theme ‘Beyond the Horizon’.<br />

Fair organiser, Gary Fitz-Roy, explained<br />

that the theme “captures the essence<br />

of a journey into the future of jewellery,<br />

offering attendees an unparalleled<br />

opportunity to explore the latest trends,<br />

discover unique gemstones, and unveil<br />

unseen designs.<br />

“The Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair<br />

promises to be a hub for industry<br />

professionals, buyers, and<br />

enthusiasts alike, providing a<br />

comprehensive platform to kick start<br />

the year with style and substance.”<br />

The Gold Coast will offer retailers and<br />

exhibitors food and beverages, with<br />

free meals and drinks sponsored by<br />

AV Diamonds.<br />

There will also be a chance to<br />

network with colleagues at a Sunday<br />

night drinks.<br />

“It will be great to be back in<br />

Queensland,” Fitz-Roy said, adding,<br />

“As one of the most anticipated trade<br />

shows of the year, the Australian<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair on the Gold Coast<br />

will showcase the creativity and<br />

innovation of Australia’s leading<br />

suppliers, featuring tens of<br />

thousands of designs and one of the<br />

biggest events to start the year.<br />

“And it’s a sell-out!”<br />

Not everything takes on a serious<br />

nature. In fitting with the holiday<br />

destination, fair visitors can try their<br />

hand at putt-putt golf sponsored by<br />

Gerrim. Players have the chance to<br />

win prizes.<br />

“We have even created a sun deck<br />

with chairs and banana lounges to<br />

make you feel totally chilled”, Fitz-<br />

Roy said.<br />

The event will host several new<br />

suppliers and is timed to coincide<br />

with the Mother’s Day buying period.<br />

“It’s an important timing for retailers<br />

because Mother’s Day is just a month<br />

or so after the AJF, which is an ideal<br />

opportunity for retailers to top-up<br />

stock and ensure they maximise the<br />

next retail promotion in a one-stopone-shop<br />

event.”<br />

Fitz-Roy explained that one of the<br />

primary reasons the Gold Coast was<br />

chosen was because retailers can<br />

combine some serious business with<br />

some serious fun.<br />

“Some retailers have told me they<br />

need a short holiday, and with<br />

airfares back to reasonable costs,<br />

it’s quite good value to fly up to<br />

Coolangatta for the show and stay a<br />

few days longer at Surfer's Paradise<br />

for a well-earned break.<br />

“I checked airfares, and you can fly<br />

from Sydney to the Gold Coast for<br />

under $100."<br />

The AJF comes after a successful<br />

Melbourne <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Expo. Following<br />

the industry gathering on the Gold<br />

Coast, attention will turn to the<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair scheduled<br />

for 17-19 August in Sydney.<br />

For further information, visit<br />

jewelleryfair.com.au.


News<br />

February: Latest sales analysis reveals important insights for Australian jewellers<br />

The latest sales analysis of Australia’s<br />

independent jewellery stores has revealed a<br />

further realignment with figures from before<br />

the COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

The data was compiled from more than 400<br />

independent stores in Australia and published<br />

by Retail Edge Consultants, detailing a 4.3 per<br />

cent decline in overall sales dollar performance<br />

on a year-on-year comparison.<br />

Comparative unit sales declined by 4.7 per cent<br />

compared with February 2023. The comparative<br />

average sale (inventory only) was effectively<br />

flat, at $228 compared with $227 the year prior.<br />

Retail Edge general manager Leon van Megen<br />

said the latest results indicated that sales are<br />

returning to a degree of ‘normalcy’ following<br />

the impact of the global pandemic.<br />

“When we measure against any month in 2022<br />

and the early part of 2023, we are comparing<br />

to what appears to have been the ‘COVID-19<br />

bubble’,” he told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“As we work our way into more directly<br />

comparable periods, we expect to see sales to<br />

come broadly in line with the last ‘non-COVID’<br />

time period."<br />

He continued: "And that is what we see<br />

this month: a gap in sales that has reduced<br />

compared with prior years.”<br />

Diamond-set jewellery declined by 10 per cent<br />

on a year-on-year comparison, with van Megen<br />

suggesting that this is an established trend and<br />

that managing stock is vital.<br />

Gemstone-set metal jewellery decreased by 7<br />

per cent compared with 2023 and 14 per cent<br />

compared with 2022.<br />

Silver and alternative metal jewellery<br />

decreased by 4.7 per cent, while jewellery<br />

without a gemstone or diamond decreased by<br />

7 per cent.<br />

Van Megen added: “To avoid a cashflow<br />

squeeze, manage your aged stock aggressively,<br />

and buy well.”<br />

Laybys decreased by 9.6 per cent in dollar<br />

terms between new orders and pickups and<br />

cancellations.<br />

Services decreased by 32.1 per cent, while<br />

special orders increased by 1.8 per cent.<br />

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News<br />

Unintended consequences: Diamond sanctions questioned<br />

The world’s largest diamond mining company – the<br />

De Beers Group – has expressed concern over<br />

incoming economic sanctions against the Russian<br />

diamond industry.<br />

In December, the G7 nations - the US, the UK,<br />

Canada, France, Germany, Italy, and Japan –<br />

announced the introduction of a multi-stage<br />

sanction process as punitive action against Russia<br />

for the invasion of Ukraine.<br />

The G7 detailed plans for a ‘diamond tracing’<br />

system, which is expected to be introduced in<br />

September. The specifics of the system are<br />

unknown, with media reports suggesting that<br />

Belgium may operate as a central hub for diamond<br />

certification.<br />

CEO Al Cook has urged the G7 to consider the<br />

unintended consequences of such a system. Of<br />

particular interest is the impact such a system may<br />

have on the price of diamonds sourced from Africa.<br />

"Effectively (African producers) would be forced to<br />

send all their diamonds in one direction rather than<br />

choosing. Ethical African diamonds would become<br />

much more expensive," Cook told Reuters.<br />

De Beers has recommended that the G7 coordinate<br />

with Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Angola, and<br />

India to ensure that this certification system meets<br />

the needs of critical contributors to international<br />

trade.<br />

"We understand and support the need for G7<br />

sanctions on diamonds," Cook added.<br />

"What's really important to us is that any sanctions<br />

that are put in place achieve their desired effect<br />

without creating terrible side effects.”<br />

De Beers uses the blockchain program Tracr<br />

to track its production. The company recently<br />

published its first sales report of the year, outlining<br />

increasing sales.<br />

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Culture shift: British Museum displays stolen treasures<br />

In an attempt to move on from recent controversy,<br />

the British Museum is displaying ten recovered<br />

items – including gemstones – that were stolen as<br />

part of a long-running theft.<br />

In August, the British Museum announced that<br />

around 2,000 objects had been stolen, damaged,<br />

or missing from its storerooms in one of the most<br />

shocking stories of the year.<br />

Around 350 items have been recovered to date, and<br />

in a new exhibition dedicated to Ancient Roman and<br />

Greek culture, 10 of these items will be on display.<br />

The new exhibition will showcase a further 500<br />

objects that were not involved in the crime, with<br />

previously stolen items in their own display case<br />

and labelled.<br />

Chair of the museum’s Board of Trustees, George<br />

Osborne, told the BBC that the exhibition was an<br />

example of ‘cultural change’ within the institution.<br />

"We promised we'd show the world the gems that<br />

were stolen and recovered - rather than hide them<br />

away," he said.<br />

It’s believed that the thefts took place over 20 years<br />

and that the museum was alerted to the alleged<br />

sale of stolen items in 2021 but failed to take action.<br />

The museum was repeatedly alerted to the theft<br />

by dealer and collector Ittai Gradel. Gradel said he<br />

has been pleased with the recent efforts to recover<br />

from the controversy.<br />

"I am greatly pleased also to see that the whole<br />

culture of the institution appears to be changing<br />

to one of much greater openness and willingness<br />

to confront problems than what I encountered in<br />

2021," he said.<br />

Following the controversy, director Hartwig Fischer<br />

resigned, and former Victoria and Albert Museum<br />

director Sir Mark Jones was appointed in the<br />

interim.<br />

The police investigation into the thefts is ongoing.<br />

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Lab-created diamonds: Popular with young consumers<br />

According to recent media reports, lab-created<br />

diamonds are increasingly popular with consumers<br />

in New Zealand; however, the future of the category<br />

remains uncertain.<br />

Based in Auckland, Four Words co-owner Shivana<br />

Pemberton said she’s noticed a notable increase<br />

in customers' awareness and popularity of labcreated<br />

diamonds.<br />

"A two-carat solitaire diamond engagement ring,<br />

if you were wanting to go natural you are probably<br />

looking at $NZ24,000 to $NZ26,000. For the labgrown<br />

diamond equivalent, you would be looking at<br />

around $NZ8000," she told Newshub.<br />

"Most of our competitors now offer lab-grown<br />

diamonds, even some competitors that we didn't<br />

think ever would."<br />

This report comes after a story published by the<br />

Associated Press, which questioned statements<br />

made by lab-created diamond producers amid<br />

concerns about greenwashing.<br />

Owner of The Diamond Shop, Sera Cruickshank,<br />

said that lab-created diamond jewellery accounts<br />

for around 90 per cent of sales, despite the<br />

Auckland store also offering natural diamonds.<br />

"It's having a really big impact on natural diamonds.<br />

In 2023 alone, they took an absolute dive of just over<br />

20 per cent; it's almost unheard of," she said.<br />

"Lab-grown diamonds really have changed the<br />

industry and made it really difficult for natural<br />

diamonds to compete."<br />

What does the future hold?<br />

Despite the apparent popularity of lab-created<br />

diamonds among young consumers, industry<br />

analyst Paul Zimnisky told Business Insider that he<br />

expects jewellery retailers to return their focus to<br />

natural diamonds this year.<br />

"It's a manufactured version of one of humans'<br />

most valuable natural resources. It allows<br />

consumers to buy a diamond at really affordable<br />

prices, especially very large diamonds that would<br />

cost tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars if<br />

they were natural diamonds,” he explained.<br />

“I think people kind of just bought it, and they<br />

thought, 'you're the only one with a three-carat<br />

diamond. But if you go to a wedding these days,<br />

you're just looking at people's engagement rings;<br />

there's a lot of three-, four-, five-carat diamonds,<br />

and it's become ubiquitous.”<br />

Zimnisky also drew attention to recent high-profile<br />

endorsements of lab-created diamonds – which<br />

include Michael Hill International, Pandora and<br />

Prada – and suggested that the popularity of the<br />

stones may prove to be their downfall.<br />

"Some of the fad is starting to fade a bit. I think it's<br />

become a lot more mainstream," he added.<br />

“I think now you might actually start to see the<br />

opposite happen, where people are like, I just want<br />

a smaller natural diamond."<br />

As part of <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s <strong>2024</strong> State of the Industry<br />

Report, more than 200 retailers were surveyed<br />

about the importance of lab-created diamonds to<br />

their business.<br />

The responses were almost perfectly divided.<br />

Around 40 per cent of respondents either ‘strongly<br />

agreed’ or ‘agreed’ that lab-created diamond<br />

jewellery has become a significant part of their<br />

business over the past decade.<br />

A greater number (42 per cent) stated that labcreated<br />

diamond jewellery was not essential to<br />

their business.<br />

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<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 27


10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>March</strong> 2014<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

Pandora jewellery seeks new chairman<br />

Game of Thrones jewellery range announced<br />

Consumer interest grows for smartwatches,<br />

smart jewellery<br />

Aussie jewellery suppliers announce merger<br />

Gold jewellery demand highest in 16 years<br />

Google confirms entry into<br />

watch market<br />

Google has confirmed its entry into the<br />

watch market with the first preview of a new<br />

smartwatch and its wearable technology<br />

while Fossil Group will be one of the first<br />

developers.<br />

Google is currently in the process of<br />

developing Android Wear, an extension of<br />

the Android operating system into wearable<br />

technology, and has been quick to partner with<br />

leading fashion watchmaker Fossil Group as<br />

well as Motorola and LG.<br />

According to Google’s blog, its first Android<br />

Wear offering will be in the form of watches<br />

because they are “the most familiar<br />

wearable”.<br />

Smartwatches powered by Android Wear will<br />

provide information and notifications from a<br />

wide variety of Android applications.<br />

$36 million Fabergé egg found<br />

at flea market<br />

A man planning to melt a gold ornament<br />

purchased at a flea market was shocked to<br />

discover it was actually a Fabergé egg valued at<br />

$36 million.<br />

According to media reports, the scrap metal<br />

dealer, who wished to remain anonymous,<br />

purchased the egg at a market in the United<br />

States for about US$14,000 (AU$15,500).<br />

Having been unsuccessful in finding a buyer for<br />

the egg’s gold, the dealer reportedly turned to<br />

the internet and was stunned after a keyword<br />

search revealed he might be in possession of<br />

a precious historical artwork. When the man<br />

approached London-based antique dealer<br />

Wartski, the dealer not only confirmed that the<br />

piece was a genuine Peter Carl Fabergé egg, but<br />

that it was one of eight Imperial Easter Eggs that<br />

had been lost.<br />

<strong>March</strong> 2014<br />

ON THE COVER ICE WATCH<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

More changes needed at jeweller's association<br />

“The past two to three years have not been<br />

a positive period for the peak industry body.<br />

In fact, I would go as far as saying it’s been<br />

an inglorious period.<br />

At a time when the Australian jewellery<br />

industry should be united, it has been<br />

anything but united.<br />

The disunity reached a peak in May 2012<br />

when the JAA was seen to turn on its own<br />

members.”<br />

Soapbox<br />

Get behind Australian manufacturing<br />

“At my peak, I had 24 people on the<br />

manufacturing site and another 50<br />

contractors also getting work. The<br />

industry was supporting each other and<br />

we were all making money.<br />

Now, everyone is struggling. I am down<br />

to three people in manufacturing and<br />

my colleagues are either in similar<br />

positions or have closed completely and<br />

are now working in other industries.<br />

Retailers aren’t doing much better<br />

either. Profits are down and the local<br />

industry has been in decline for almost<br />

two decades!”<br />

Aram Atakliyan, Australian Designer <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON<br />

“In any sale, the customer or<br />

prospect makes a predictable<br />

series of buying decisions that lead<br />

to a final purchasing decision.<br />

The first and perhaps most<br />

important of these is whether or<br />

not the customer “buys” what the<br />

salesperson is saying.”<br />

Positive outcome for jewellery fair<br />

The first Australian jewellery fair for 2014<br />

drew to a close yesterday, with those in<br />

attendance reporting overall positive results<br />

and support for the many changes that were<br />

introduced to the event.<br />

An obvious change for the two-day show was the<br />

relocation from Brisbane to the Gold Coast - a<br />

decision that was embraced by all the exhibitors<br />

interviewed by <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Costas Karabouloukis, director of The Amber<br />

Centre, said that the supplier gained a number of<br />

new accounts from retailers that were located in<br />

Sydney in Melbourne.<br />

“The fact that these customers weren’t from<br />

Queensland is proof that people are definitely<br />

travelling interstate to attend the show. I think a<br />

lot of people are using the fair as an opportunity<br />

to combine business with pleasure,” he<br />

explained.<br />

Aussie jewellery suppliers<br />

announce merger<br />

Two local suppliers specialising in jewellery<br />

tools and equipment will merge their<br />

business operations to form one company.<br />

Both Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Supplies (AJS)<br />

and House of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y (HOJ) will now trade<br />

under the business name Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Supplies, effective from Tuesday 1 April 2014.<br />

Current HOJ managing director Selwyn Brandt<br />

confirmed the arrangement, adding that the<br />

company’s head office would be located in<br />

Brisbane, with additional branches in all capital<br />

cities. The current AJS and HOJ showrooms in<br />

Sydney will be combined into one outlet.<br />

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

28 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


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<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 29


Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

confidence to build a solid<br />

career in a multimilliondollar<br />

industry. Joining<br />

one of the most supportive<br />

and passionate professional<br />

communities of gemmologists<br />

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30 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

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REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Gemmologists who changed the game:<br />

Serving an industry amid constantly evolution<br />

Over the past six issues of <strong>Jeweller</strong> magazine,<br />

we’ve taken a closer look at the many<br />

gemmologists who have transformed the<br />

industry over the years.<br />

In this issue, we will take a temporary break<br />

from biographical reflections on influential<br />

individuals and instead focus on the changing<br />

nature of the field.<br />

Gemmologists are, in many ways, the ‘unsung<br />

heroes’ in the world of gemstones and jewellery.<br />

They are pivotal in an industry built on beauty,<br />

rarity, and value.<br />

Contrary to popular belief, gemmology is not<br />

a recent development. Of course, gemstones<br />

in various forms have been used by humans<br />

as adornment and for displays of wealth since<br />

the beginnings of civilisation. The roots of<br />

gemmology as a scientific field can be traced, at<br />

a minimum, to the 1800s.<br />

Serious formal education in the science of<br />

gemmology was documented in the early 20th<br />

century when the first courses in gemmology<br />

emerged through organisations such as the<br />

Gemmological Association of Great Britain,<br />

founded in 1908, followed by the Gemmological<br />

Institute of America, founded in 1931.<br />

Since then, gemmological training institutions,<br />

including the Gemmological Association of<br />

Australia (GAA), founded in 1945, have increased<br />

worldwide, creating new generations of experts<br />

who serve as the industry’s backbone.<br />

Some of Australia’s leading gemmologists<br />

include Bill Sechos, Terry Coldham, Grant Hamid,<br />

Kym Hughes, Jan Vlanzy, Grant Pearson, Garry<br />

Holloway and Francine Payette.<br />

These scientists are building on the legacy of the<br />

founders of GAA – including Jack Taylor, Arthur<br />

Wirth, Sandy Tombs, and more recently, Geoff<br />

Tombs, Grahame Brown, Patricia Callaway, Pat<br />

Reis, Corinne Sutherland, Bob Bubeck, Suzette<br />

Fairley, and Des Bumstead.<br />

New challenges<br />

In the past, the duties of gemmologists revolved<br />

around basic gemstone identification and<br />

distinguishing natural gemstones from their<br />

synthetic counterparts. However, as the industry<br />

evolved, so did the role of the gemmologist.<br />

Today, they face increasingly complex challenges,<br />

Influential Australian gemmologists: Corinne Sutherland, Geoff Tombs and Grant Hamid in 1980.<br />

from identifying newly treated gemstones to<br />

determining the quality of precious stones such<br />

as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.<br />

To determine the value of gemstones, one must<br />

complete a valuation course available in Australia<br />

by the National Council of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Valuers.<br />

With questions ranging from the authenticity of<br />

diamonds to the stability of treated gemstones,<br />

the expertise of trained gemmologists has<br />

become indispensable to the jewellery industry.<br />

Increasingly, low-grade gemstones are being<br />

treated in various ways to increase their<br />

preserved value for sale. New treatments need to<br />

be detected and identified.<br />

Organisations such as the GAA have been<br />

instrumental in providing comprehensive training<br />

programs, including diplomas in gemmology<br />

and practical diamond grading, ensuring that<br />

professionals are equipped to navigate the<br />

complexities of the trade. These complexities can<br />

vary from quench fluxed filled lab-created rubies<br />

to B” jade, which refers to jadeite bleached with<br />

acid and then impregnated with polymer resin.<br />

Gemmology is a multifaceted science<br />

encompassing the study of various gemstones,<br />

ornamental materials, biological materials, and<br />

lab-created (synthetic) substitutes and imitations.<br />

As technology advances, both in terms of the<br />

increasing array of imitations, synthetics,<br />

and treatments entering the market and the<br />

instruments needed to identify and describe<br />

these advances, so do the challenges faced by<br />

gemmologists. The importance of gemmological<br />

education cannot be overstated in an industry<br />

where confidence and knowledge are paramount.<br />

Gemmologists trained by reputable institutions<br />

such as the GAA possess the technical skills<br />

needed to identify gemstones and understand<br />

their work’s ethical and legal implications.<br />

In summary, gemmologists play a vital role in<br />

preserving the integrity and authenticity of the<br />

gemstone and jewellery industry. Their expertise,<br />

honed through rigorous training and practical<br />

experience, ensures that with confidence,<br />

jewellers can sell, and consumers can purchase<br />

– secure in the knowledge that these precious<br />

treasures are in safe hands.<br />

Kathryn Wyatt BSc FGAA Dip DT, is a qualified<br />

gemmologist, diamond technologist, registered<br />

jewellery valuer, educator and member of the<br />

Australian Antique & Art Dealers Association. For<br />

more information on gems and gemmology, go to<br />

www.gem.org.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 31


ADDENDUM TO THE<br />

<strong>2024</strong> STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

Going it alone:<br />

Why is Queensland different?<br />

Over the past decade, Queensland's number of jewellery stores has<br />

decreased dramatically more than any other state. Why?<br />

43%<br />

Decline in independent<br />

jewellery stores in<br />

Queensland between<br />

2010 and 2023.<br />

Queensland is the only<br />

state in Australia where<br />

the majority of the<br />

population does not live<br />

in the capital city.<br />

KEY FINDINGS: AT A GLANCE<br />

Queensland has more<br />

chain stores and buying<br />

group members than<br />

Victoria, despite the<br />

difference in population.<br />

329<br />

Independent jewellery<br />

stores in Queensland<br />

as of 2023.<br />

Q ueensland and Queenslanders are different.<br />

Just ask them!<br />

They will list many reasons why and quickly remind<br />

you that Queensland is ‘beautiful one day and perfect<br />

the next’.<br />

While that iconic Queensland government tourist<br />

slogan may well be accurate, many of the reasons<br />

given as to why the northern state is different are<br />

less clear.<br />

Said another way, the examples that Queenslanders<br />

will likely give about their state being different to the<br />

remainder of Australia may be accurate; however, it’s<br />

not the entire picture.<br />

This is particularly true when it comes to the jewellery<br />

industry. Indeed, Australia’s second-largest state offers<br />

a far more complex economy than any other.<br />

This partly explains why, since 2010, the number of<br />

retail jewellery stores – chains and independents -<br />

declined from 919 to 680.<br />

This 26 per cent drop was the largest among all<br />

states, with NSW, Victoria and WA declining by<br />

around 14 per cent. Regarding independent jewellery<br />

retailers specifically, the figures are more alarming.<br />

The <strong>2024</strong> State of the Industry Report (SOIR) found<br />

that Queensland’s ‘mum-and-dad’ independent<br />

retailers declined by 43 per cent (from 577 to 329).<br />

This was more than twice the figure for NSW (19<br />

per cent) and Victoria (21 per cent). The decline of<br />

independent stores in WA (23 per cent) and SA (25<br />

per cent) aligned with trends in NSW and Victoria.<br />

So what precipitated the much larger fall in the<br />

Sunshine State?<br />

Queensland’s befuddling retail landscape<br />

When questioning why Queensland’s retail sector<br />

does not conform to these trends witnessed in other<br />

states, it’s important to consider additional data<br />

uncovered by the SOIR.<br />

For example, given that independent jewellery stores<br />

experienced a sharp decline from 2010 to 2023, what<br />

happened to fine and fashion chain stores?<br />

Over the past 13 years, NSW and Victoria each<br />

‘lost’ 11 per cent of their chain stores.Meanwhile,<br />

Queensland’s chain store count remained consistent.<br />

Declining from 316 in 2010 to 309 in 2023, this two<br />

per cent drop over the period was negligible.<br />

Indeed, it’s fascinating that Queensland has more<br />

jewellery chain stores (309) than Victoria (272)<br />

despite the difference in population. If you need<br />

further proof that Queenslanders seem to have more<br />

affinity with chain store products and shopping, then<br />

consider the fashion jewellery category.<br />

Despite the considerable difference in population<br />

compared with NSW (2.9 million more people) and<br />

Victoria (1.4 million more people), Queensland more<br />

than holds its own regarding fashion jewellery stores.<br />

Queensland has the same number of fashion<br />

jewellery stores as Victoria (71), while NSW (73) has<br />

just two more stores.<br />

On the surface, Australia’s two largest fashion<br />

jewellery chains – Lovisa and Colette – appear to<br />

have a similar strategy regarding stores in Victoria<br />

and Queensland. Coincidentally, both chains have the<br />

same number of locations in Queensland as they do<br />

in Victoria despite the difference in population.<br />

The SOIR recorded 43 Lovisa stores in Queensland<br />

and 43 in Victoria, while Colette had 16 locations in<br />

Queensland and, like Lovisa, the same number in<br />

Victoria (16). As they say in the movies: “Now, here’s<br />

the thing!”<br />

Consistent with population statistics, NSW has<br />

more buying group members (200) and buying group<br />

stores (225) than Queensland (109 and 132). That<br />

said, once again, the Sunshine State’s figures exceed<br />

Victoria’s, with only 106 members and 131 stores.<br />

It’s important to remember that these results follow<br />

a 43 per cent decline in the number of ‘mum-anddad’<br />

independent jewellery stores since 2010!<br />

With that said, this is not a new trend. <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

2016, 2018, and 2020 Buying Group Reports indicated<br />

that more Queensland retailers were members of<br />

one of the three buying groups compared to Victoria.<br />

The plot thickens further when considering brandonly<br />

stores. Given that fine and fashion jewellery<br />

chains have a strong presence in Queensland,<br />

it’s fair to assume that a similar trend would be<br />

reflected in brand-only stores, right?<br />

Wrong! In another baffling contradiction, the number<br />

of brand-only stores in Queensland is only about half<br />

that of NSW and Victoria.<br />

Between 2010 and 2022, Queensland’s population<br />

increased from 4.49 million to 5.41 million, meaning<br />

around 20 per cent of the country’s population calls<br />

the state home.<br />

With that said, we find conflicting information across<br />

each sector of the industry.<br />

Queensland hosts just 16 per cent of all independent<br />

jewellery stores, 24 per cent of fine jewellery stores,<br />

and 27 per cent of fashion jewellery retailers.<br />

Why is this happening?<br />

It’s clear that Queensland is running its own race<br />

when it comes to the jewellery industry, and it’s<br />

expected that similar results will be found in other<br />

retail categories such as fashion, white goods, and<br />

so on. The question is - why?<br />

For starters, Queensland is the only state in<br />

Australia where most of the population does not live<br />

in the capital city. This detail often guides the retail<br />

landscape in other states.<br />

Local and international tourism are vital to<br />

Queensland’s economy. Comparing statistics<br />

across the states is challenging; however, more<br />

international tourists land in Sydney than Brisbane.<br />

However, that can be deceptive because many<br />

international tourists visit Queensland from Sydney,<br />

usually because flights from their home country to<br />

Sydney are their only option.<br />

Queensland has seven international-level airports -<br />

stretching from Coolangatta on the Gold Coast right<br />

up the eastern seaboard to Cairns - compared to<br />

NSW’s three city airports.<br />

32 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


CHART 1: BUYING GROUP MEMBERSHIP - STATE-BY-STATE<br />

250<br />

<strong>2024</strong> STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

WHAT HAPPENED IN QUEENSLAND?<br />

200<br />

150<br />

100<br />

50<br />

0<br />

232<br />

NSW<br />

143<br />

VIC<br />

152<br />

QLD<br />

50<br />

WA<br />

60<br />

23<br />

12<br />

6<br />

223<br />

130<br />

133<br />

46<br />

55<br />

21<br />

9<br />

5<br />

206<br />

112<br />

116<br />

35<br />

43<br />

20<br />

10<br />

7<br />

200<br />

106<br />

109<br />

34<br />

SA<br />

TAS<br />

ACT<br />

NT<br />

NSW<br />

VIC<br />

QLD<br />

WA<br />

SA<br />

TAS<br />

ACT<br />

NT<br />

NSW<br />

VIC<br />

QLD<br />

WA<br />

SA<br />

TAS<br />

ACT<br />

NT<br />

NSW<br />

VIC<br />

QLD<br />

WA<br />

2016 2018 2020 2023<br />

45<br />

SA<br />

17<br />

TAS<br />

8<br />

ACT<br />

4<br />

NT<br />

Chart 1 shows a stateby-state<br />

comparison of<br />

buying group membership<br />

between 2016 and<br />

2023. It's interesting<br />

to note that despite<br />

Victoria (6.7 million)<br />

having a significantly<br />

larger population than<br />

Queensland (5.4 million),<br />

and indeed, more<br />

independent jewellery<br />

stores. It would seem that<br />

Queensland's 'mum-anddad'<br />

jewellery retailers<br />

are more inclined to join a<br />

buying group.<br />

For comparison, Victoria has two international airports<br />

– Tullamarine and Avalon – but arguably, they are both<br />

in the state’s capital city – Melbourne.<br />

With more international standard airports than<br />

any other state, it’s evident that tourism is vital to<br />

Queensland’s economy. The need for seven airports<br />

also reflects the often understated size of the state.<br />

With an area of 1,727,000 square kilometres, it’s more<br />

than twice as big as the US state of Texas and seven<br />

times the size of Great Britain!<br />

Queensland is the second-largest state in Australia<br />

after WA. For reference, WA only has three<br />

international airports.<br />

The salient point is that based on the size of<br />

Queensland and the number of regional cities<br />

and towns, more retail opportunities are found<br />

in this style of population distribution.<br />

For example, ten of the 30 largest urban areas by<br />

population in Australia are found in Queensland,<br />

compared with just seven in Victoria and six in New<br />

South Wales.<br />

When a state's population is concentrated in its<br />

capital city, the expansion of chain stores is restricted,<br />

mainly due to competitive risks and the threat of sales<br />

cannibalisation.<br />

This is less of an issue in Queensland, and thus,<br />

chain stores have maintained a firm and stable<br />

grasp on the market while independent jewellery<br />

stores have declined.<br />

The COVID-19 Sledgehammer<br />

It’s worth considering why focusing on the number<br />

of airports is essential to understanding the decline<br />

of small Queensland jewellery stores.<br />

Tourism is a crucial cog in Queensland’s economy,<br />

and that tap was turned off during the pandemic.<br />

According to research by Business Queensland,<br />

more than 27 million domestic and international<br />

overnight visitors came to Queensland in the year<br />

ending <strong>March</strong> 2023.<br />

Tourism is a $22 billion industry in Queensland,<br />

with domestic and international visitors spending<br />

$90.1 million daily. The tourism industry directly and<br />

indirectly employs 206,000 people in Queensland. This<br />

equates to roughly one in 15 people.<br />

For jewellery and gemstones specific to the<br />

Queensland region, such as the opal and sapphire<br />

industries, tourist spending is vital – and the closure<br />

of international and interstate travel during the<br />

pandemic was a crushing blow.<br />

One example is Opal Gallery, located on Cavill Avenue<br />

on the Gold Coast. Managing director Hide Kojima<br />

documented the challenges faced by his business<br />

during the pandemic.<br />

“Our storefront was located at 45 Cavill Avenue,<br />

Surfers Paradise Queensland, a location very popular<br />

for international tourists. We’ve been there for many<br />

years now, so I considered that my second home,”<br />

writes Kojima.<br />

“This meant that we’d been targeting our products and<br />

advertisements for these tourists for as long as I could<br />

remember. Many of our tourists came from places like<br />

China, Japan, and India, and we had many interstate<br />

tourists each day as well.<br />

He continues: “In <strong>March</strong> 2020, when the coronavirus<br />

became a real threat to Australia, our business<br />

immediately felt the impacts of it. Few people were<br />

visiting Cavill Avenue, and it soon became a ghost<br />

town. Honestly, we all felt a little lost.”<br />

The impact of COVID-19 on Queensland’s coastal<br />

tourist cities was devastating. From the Gold Coast<br />

and Sunshine Coast in the south to Cairns and Port<br />

Douglas in the north to Airlie Beach, Townsville and<br />

Mackay, significant income disappeared overnight.<br />

For those already considering closure before the<br />

pandemic - whether because of weak sales or<br />

retirement plans - the prospect of an indefinite<br />

period without tourism spending was likely a strong<br />

motivation for change.<br />

It’s important to remember that while many of<br />

Queensland’s jewellery stores may not directly depend<br />

on tourism spending, chances are that many of the loyal<br />

customers of these stores rely on tourism for income.<br />

As a flow-on effect, reduced discretionary<br />

spending from customers dependent on tourism<br />

for employment was another crushing blow for<br />

jewellery stores.<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has 31 members in Queensland,<br />

representing 47 stores. Managing director Anthony<br />

Enriquez said that he was surprised the decline<br />

of independents was as dramatic as the figures<br />

demonstrate.<br />

He also said it’s understood that the sudden<br />

evaporation of tourism spending was a devastating<br />

blow for many jewellery retailers.<br />

“The decline in store numbers being larger for<br />

Queensland is a little surprising, as Showcase did not<br />

have a significantly higher number of member stores<br />

closing in Queensland over that period compared with<br />

other states,” he explains.<br />

“In many of those cases, the reason for closure was<br />

mainly the retirement of owners, which is generally<br />

happening across the industry. With that said, the<br />

impact of COVID-19 - particularly the border closures<br />

and lockdowns - limited tourist spending dramatically.<br />

“Visitor numbers, particularly from overseas, were<br />

slow to return, which could have had a greater impact<br />

in Queensland [compared with other states].”<br />

In that regard, it’s not surprising that in a 2020 survey<br />

conducted by the National Retail Association, 95 per<br />

cent of business owners surveyed reported that they<br />

either ‘strongly agree’ or ‘agree’ that “it is very difficult<br />

to ensure financial stability right now.”<br />

One-two punch<br />

While it’s widely understood that the impact of the<br />

global pandemic had on international tourism, it is not<br />

well recognised that Queensland tourism suffered an<br />

earlier blow.<br />

The Chinese government began punishing Australia<br />

over a diplomatic dispute that included imposing a $20<br />

billion trade ban.<br />

China also banned group tours to Australia, and it<br />

has previously been reported that 1.4 million Chinese<br />

tourists spent $2.1 billion in Australia in 2019, $581<br />

million spent by participants of China’s Approved<br />

Destination Status (ADS) or tour group scheme.<br />

Although this ban was eventually lifted, Chinese<br />

tourists visiting Australia are still at just a fraction<br />

of pre-pandemic levels even though the borders<br />

reopened in January.<br />

Tammy Keers is an independent jeweller who was<br />

not surprised to learn about Queensland's decline in<br />

jewellery retailers. She connected the phenomenon<br />

with several key developments in recent years.<br />

The owner of Artisan Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>s in Brisbane<br />

says, “There were many jewellers and suppliers<br />

that we knew and heard of doing it tough before<br />

COVID, so when the opportunity came to renew their<br />

leases, I think they took it as their queue to exit.<br />

“The shift in consumer preferences since 2010 has<br />

increased demand for custom and bespoke designs.<br />

Handmade custom jewellery has been a part of our<br />

story since we opened our doors in 2006, so we<br />

are not new to this style of manufacturing.<br />

“Unfortunately for jewellers who did not have a<br />

strong hand-making and design background<br />

meant that they would have been unable to<br />

compete with those who could.”<br />

These insights were reflected in <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

survey of more than 200 retailers on the<br />

industry's pressing issues.<br />

Retailers were asked: Custom-made jewellery has<br />

increasingly become an important part of my business<br />

in the 5-10 years.<br />

More than 77 per cent of retailers stated that they either<br />

‘strongly agreed’ or ‘agreed’ with that statement.<br />

Keers also noted the significance of retirement,<br />

suggesting that many businesses closed their<br />

doors for the final time due to a lack of succession<br />

opportunities.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 33


<strong>2024</strong> STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

WHAT HAPPENED IN QUEENSLAND?<br />

TABLE 1: 2023 POPULATION COMPARISON<br />

Why is Queensland different? NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL<br />

State Population 8,293,965 6,766,559 5,418,453 2,855,594 1,844,616 572,660 464,601 251,700 26,468,148<br />

Percentage of National 31.34% 25.56% 20.47% 10.79% 6.97% 2.16% 1.76% 0.95% 100.00%<br />

State Size (km²) 800,150 227,416 1,729,742 2,527,013 984,321 64,519 2,358 1,347,791 7,683,310<br />

Population density 10.24 28.47 2.93 1.08 1.77 6.31 6.04 0.18 57.02<br />

International Airports by State 3 2* 7 3 1 1 1 1 17<br />

All Independent stores 754 499 329 187 136 61 30 14 2,010<br />

Chain stores - Fine jewellery 297 201 238 137 62 16 24 12 987<br />

Chain stores - Fashion jewellery 73 71 71 25 15 2 6 2 265<br />

Brand-Only stores 89 74 42 22 8 - 3 1 239<br />

Total stores 2023 1,213 845 680 371 221 79 63 29 3,501<br />

Total stores 2010 1,417 984 919 432 277 85 72 39 4,225<br />

Decline - 2010 V 2023 -204 -139 -239 -61 -56 -6 -9 -10 -724<br />

% Decline - All stores -14.40% -14.13% -26.01% -14.12% -20.22% -7.06% -12.50% -25.64% -<br />

% Decline Independent stores only 19.19% 21.29% 42.98% 22.73% 24.86% 6.15% 26.83% 46.15% -<br />

This table is a comprehensive<br />

analysis that demonstrates<br />

the many ways that<br />

Queensland differs from all<br />

other states when it comes to<br />

the jewellery industry. Over<br />

the past decade, independent<br />

jewellery retailers in<br />

Queensland have declined<br />

at a greater rate (43 per<br />

cent) than in all other states.<br />

What's not well recognised<br />

is that Queensland has more<br />

fine jewellery chain stores<br />

than Victoria, and an equal<br />

number of fashion jewellery<br />

chain stores, despite the<br />

significant population<br />

difference between the two<br />

states.<br />

* Victoria has two international airports; however, they are both in Melbourne. Queensland, because of its size and population spread, has international-level airports in seven different cities.<br />

“Since 2010, family-owned jewellery businesses<br />

have also had to close their doors due to the next<br />

generation choosing not to take on the business or<br />

due to retirement,” she explained.<br />

Coincidentally, this was also highlighted by <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

retailers survey. Retailers were asked: I intend to<br />

retire or sell my business in the next five years.<br />

A startling 38 per cent of respondents indicated that<br />

they ‘strongly agreed’ or ‘agreed’ with this statement.<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s managing director Colin<br />

Pocklington suggests that Queensland’s overall<br />

decline in independent jewellers can be partly<br />

attributed to an ‘exodus’ from shopping centres.<br />

Nationwide has 64 members in Queensland,<br />

accounting for 71 stores.<br />

Pocklington agreed with Keers and connected the<br />

decline to the importance of custom-made and<br />

bespoke jewellery.<br />

“There are very few independents in shopping centres<br />

as it is. There are many reasons why this is the case;<br />

however, a factor you can’t ignore is the extra rent<br />

you pay compared with the customers you attract to<br />

your stores as an independent compared with a chain<br />

store,” he explains.<br />

“I think many jewellers have discovered that it’s not<br />

worth paying for the premium rent of a shopping<br />

centre location because your customers will find<br />

you for custom-made jewellery and repairs at a high<br />

street location all the same.”<br />

Pocklington continues: “I think this decline is also a<br />

continuation of the growing importance of custommade<br />

jewellery as a part of the business.<br />

"Selling finished merchandise, which is more of a<br />

shopping centre practice, has become less important<br />

for independent jewellers.”<br />

Chain store equation<br />

Based in Fortitude Valley in Queensland, Mark Cotterell is<br />

the owner of Mark Cotterell Master <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />

“Social media has allowed greater visibility for<br />

small non-storefront jewellers to be seen and build<br />

business bases whilst many traditional bricks-andmortar<br />

‘family style’ jewellers had limited workshop<br />

facilities and little to no designer elements to their<br />

businesses,” he says.<br />

“Queensland has a strong base of chain jewellers,<br />

34 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

probably more so than other states. The jewellers that<br />

buy jewellery and have no craftsman on site are the<br />

shops that have been exposed to a much larger extent,<br />

and there aren't a lot of well-trained jewellers left.<br />

“Many of those now work for themselves and are<br />

active on social media.”<br />

Cottrell’s view is backed by the SOIR research that, as<br />

indicated above, Queensland has more fine jewellery<br />

and fashion chain stores than Victoria.<br />

For example, Angus & Coote has more stores in<br />

Queensland (32) than it does in Victoria (20), as does<br />

Goldmark (22 and 8).<br />

Both chains are owned by New Zealand’s James<br />

Pascoe Group, which also owns Prouds, which has 67<br />

stores in Queensland and only 47 in Victoria.<br />

Likewise, Shiels, the 50-store South Australian-based<br />

chain, also favours Queensland over Victoria despite<br />

the latter’s larger population.<br />

There are 16 Shiels stores in Queensland and none<br />

in Victoria, which would suggest that the size of the<br />

state and the fact that most of the population lives<br />

in the many varied cities offers better expansion<br />

opportunities.<br />

The only chain that goes against the trend is Michael Hill<br />

International, which – at the time of the SOIR research –<br />

had 28 Queensland stores compared to 34 in Victoria.<br />

Closing remarks<br />

Despite the challenges of the past few years, the<br />

Queensland economy has continued to expand at an<br />

impressive pace.<br />

Increased retail productivity is expected to coincide<br />

with the ongoing population explosion; however,<br />

independent jewellers seem the ‘odd one out’.<br />

The decline of independent jewellers in Queensland<br />

has occurred for many reasons. COVID-19 encouraged<br />

many businesses considering closure – whether it<br />

was because of weak sales or retirement plans – to<br />

do so.<br />

The challenges of the pandemic also encouraged<br />

many jewellers to consider shutting up shop in favour<br />

of a studio or workshop, with social media serving as<br />

the basis for meeting new customers, as opposed to a<br />

front door on a high street.<br />

Pocklington also points to a shortage of<br />

manufacturing bench jewellers nationwide, with<br />

the shortage most likely worsened in regional<br />

Queensland.<br />

Independent jewellers have also abandoned shopping<br />

centres, partly due to an increased focus on bespoke<br />

and custom-made jewellery.<br />

Customers seeking personalised jewellery will<br />

discover retailers on a high street or on social media<br />

just as easily as they would in a shopping centre,<br />

where mass-produced jewellery is more popular.<br />

With the above factors in mind, it’s important to note<br />

that just because Queensland’s independent jewellery<br />

retailers are declining overall, that does not mean the<br />

industry is ‘unhealthy’ or in trouble.<br />

Logic dictates that if discretionary spending has<br />

remained strong in Queensland, then the jewellery<br />

stores that have remained open should enjoy<br />

improved sales because of the decreased competition.<br />

Said another way, if a more significant percentage of<br />

the industry achieves improved sales, is this not an<br />

argument for a healthy industry?<br />

It’s another reminder that everything is a matter of<br />

perspective, including store closures.<br />

SOIR ADDENDUM EXPLAINED<br />

This article is an addendum to the State of the Industry<br />

Report<br />

published in December 2023. The purpose of the<br />

six-month study into the Australian jewellery industry is<br />

two-fold – it’s a historical document offering an in-depth<br />

examination of the trade from which a glimpse of the future<br />

may be obtained.<br />

As is often the case with studies of this nature, the research<br />

often uncovers unexpected insights. These include significant<br />

changes due to advances in technology, the evolution of<br />

consumer habits and expectations, and the unforeseen<br />

impact of an unprecedented global pandemic.<br />

In some cases, the space allocated to specific sections of the<br />

report was insufficient because of the additional detail and<br />

information obtained. This article is one such case where it<br />

was noted that the decline of independent jewellery retailers<br />

in Queensland far exceeded declines in other states. This was<br />

deemed worthy of further analysis.<br />

There is a host of additional information uncovered during<br />

the SOIR research period, which was also unable to be<br />

included in the initial report due to space and time limitations.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

will continue to publish addendums to the SOIR to<br />

analyse and clarify an ever-changing industry.


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<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 35


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36 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


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CLEAR NEUTRAL<br />

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<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 37


production chain we can begin to<br />

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Embracing sustainable practices<br />

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38 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

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<strong>Jeweller</strong>s themselves are taking<br />

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FASHION FEATURE<br />

Adorning Ambitions<br />

When the going gets tough, the tough get going.<br />

SAMUEL ORD discusses the advantages fashion jewellery<br />

products offer retailers in trying economic times.<br />

GUESS<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 41


BRONZALLURE<br />

FURLA<br />

T he greatest businesses discover opportunity in<br />

difficult times. Every challenge to the status quo<br />

is a chance to explore new strategies.<br />

The challenges of today are well-documented – times<br />

are tough for consumers, and budgets have been<br />

tightened accordingly.<br />

Australian jewellery retailers are right to be concerned<br />

about these economic conditions.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y is a luxury purchase – not a necessity – and<br />

luxury products are usually the first on the chopping<br />

block when discretionary spending declines.<br />

Australians are responding to the financial pains<br />

associated with cost-of-living pressures and inflation,<br />

and economic experts have warned that retailers are<br />

likely to suffer.<br />

Shane Oliver, chief economist with financial services<br />

company AMP, told ABC News that more challenging<br />

times lay ahead for retailers.<br />

“It is likely retail sales will remain weak in the months<br />

ahead in response to ongoing cost-of-living pressures,”<br />

he said.<br />

“In fact, the noisy data over the past few months has<br />

partly reflected the growing trend of consumers seeking<br />

out bargains and discounts, which is a sign of weakness<br />

in household consumption.”<br />

The popularity of recent ‘Black Friday’ sales events<br />

has also highlighted the current Australian affinity for<br />

reduced-priced goods.<br />

Many consumers opted to complete their Christmas<br />

shopping in November rather than December to<br />

maximise discounts and promotions.<br />

While these shifts in consumer purchasing patterns<br />

might concern some retailers, for others, it presents<br />

an opportunity to demonstrate the most important value<br />

in business.<br />

That is the ability to be flexible and adaptive to meet new<br />

consumer demands.<br />

42 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

FA SHION JE WELLERY<br />

Things To<br />

Remember<br />

Emulation<br />

As production capabilities<br />

have improved, the ability of<br />

fashion jewellery to emulate the<br />

characteristics of fine jewellery<br />

has increased significantly.<br />

Evolution<br />

When Pandora entered the<br />

Australian market it was<br />

dismissed by many as 'cheap<br />

fashion jewellery'. Today,<br />

Pandora is the world's largest<br />

mass-market jewellery brand.<br />

Resilience<br />

Times may be tough for many<br />

consumers today; however,<br />

many loyal customers for fashion<br />

jewellery brands are insulated<br />

from economic pressures due<br />

to their age and background,<br />

meaning they continue<br />

purchasing despite cost-ofliving<br />

pressures.<br />

Variety<br />

Fashion jewellery collections<br />

offer independent retailers a<br />

chance to significantly broaden<br />

their stock, encouraging new<br />

customers to visit the store.<br />

Silver bullet<br />

While consumers' budgets may be changing, the demand<br />

for quality jewellery is not.<br />

Whether it be a gift for a loved one or a personal pleasure,<br />

jewellery remains unrivalled in luxury status. Earrings,<br />

bracelets, rings, and necklaces are all embedded with<br />

deep emotional attachments that can be preserved for<br />

generations.<br />

With that said, not every piece of jewellery needs to evolve<br />

into a family heirloom.<br />

The market for affordable and trend-driven jewellery has<br />

rapidly evolved over the past decade, meaning consumers<br />

on tight budgets still have access to designs that can<br />

complete every outfit.<br />

Today, there are countless options for retailers that cater<br />

to the midmarket, offering trendy accessories and<br />

innovative designs that suit all budgets and tastes.<br />

Fashion jewellery collections offer retailers many<br />

significant advantages crucial to succeeding in adverse<br />

economic environments, including quick turnover,<br />

versatility, and affordability.<br />

Indeed, fashion jewellery generally retails below $100<br />

and rarely above $500, making it an appealing option<br />

for consumers with a limited budget.<br />

The crucial advantage of fashion jewellery is the ability to<br />

adapt to constant changes in style and trends.<br />

Consumers, especially those of younger demographics,<br />

are consistently fascinated by the latest and greatest<br />

collections – primarily driven by social media marketing.<br />

By 2030 ‘Generation Z’ and ‘Millennials’ are expected to<br />

account for 48 per cent of retail spending in Australia.<br />

CEMOH’s Simon Dell says that young shoppers aim to be<br />

well-informed and constantly seek the balance between<br />

affordability and quality.<br />

“Social media trends are the name of the game for Gen Z.<br />

Product novelty matters to them more than brand names.<br />

Many businesses market their products through social<br />

media influencers,” he explains.


THOMAS SABO<br />

PANDORA<br />

“As jewellery retailers, it’s crucial to understand<br />

the products young Australians are buying and the<br />

characteristics and designs that appeal to their mindset<br />

the most.”<br />

This constant evolution of products gives retailers an<br />

opportunity to refresh their merchandising and marketing<br />

both in-store and online regularly.<br />

Stores that regularly refresh their merchandising may also<br />

develop a reputation among local consumers for being in<br />

touch with the latest trends.<br />

Stores with this reputation can keep customers curious<br />

about the latest releases and, by doing so, encourage<br />

consumer loyalty and repeat sales.<br />

There’s the opportunity for more frequent sales, rather<br />

than being limited to key anniversaries and holidays to<br />

secure traditional annual purchases.<br />

Success stories<br />

Retailers and consumers were once forced to decide<br />

between fine and fashion jewellery, and hard-working<br />

artisans and passionate devotees scorned any comparison.<br />

With that said, it’s always been challengingto define the<br />

difference between fashion and fine jewellery clearly. The<br />

industry broadly defines fashion jewellery as made from<br />

base metals such as copper, brass, leather, or plastic.<br />

This includes ‘simulated gemstones’ made from glass,<br />

crystal and plastic. Gold-plated and silver-plated base<br />

metal products are also considered fashion jewellery.<br />

The difference between the two categories has become even<br />

more nuanced in recent years as design and production<br />

technology has improved the quality of products.<br />

As manufacturing and design capabilities have improved<br />

over the years, fashion jewellery began to embody an<br />

increasing number of traits and characteristics once<br />

exclusively attributed to fine jewellery.<br />

Indeed, it’s even become harder to tell the difference<br />

between stores that offer fine or fashion jewellery.<br />

The most notable success story when it comes to this<br />

strategy is Pandora. Fewer than 20 years ago, a once<br />

FA SHION JE WELLERY<br />

Advantages<br />

Adaptable<br />

Fashion jewelley collections are<br />

able to keep up to date with the<br />

latest trends and styles due to<br />

short production cycles.<br />

New Customers<br />

With the addition of fashion<br />

jewellery products, independent<br />

retailers may encourage new,<br />

previously unfamiliar customers<br />

to visit their store.<br />

Loyalty<br />

Many fashion jewellery<br />

collections have a 'collectability'<br />

aspect, encouraging repeat<br />

purchases and generating loyal<br />

customers for a brand and store.<br />

Big Picture<br />

Fashion jewellery is primarily<br />

purchased by young, female<br />

consumers. While these<br />

consumers may not be in<br />

the market for fine jewellery<br />

today, in the future they will<br />

be. Securing a relationship<br />

with these customers via<br />

fashion jewellery collections is<br />

important.<br />

largely unknown Danish brand appeared in Australia.<br />

Early attempts at distributing the brand fell flat because,<br />

at the time, Pandora was considered ‘cheap fashion<br />

jewellery’ manufactured in Asia.<br />

Pandora’s partnership with a vast network of independent<br />

fine jewellery stores in fewer than five years led to a brand<br />

revolution in Australia and internationally.<br />

During that time and beyond, Pandora’s products slowly<br />

began to include silver and gold pieces and, eventually,<br />

lab-created diamonds.<br />

As a result, Pandora has expanded to more than 7,800<br />

points of sale, including more than 2,400 concept stores,<br />

is the world’s largest mass-market jewellery brand.<br />

Emulating fine jewellery at an affordable price has been<br />

pivotal in the expansion.<br />

Pandora recently reported an other quarter of increasing<br />

sales. Before the announcement, chief financial officer<br />

Anders Boyer said the focus remains on appearance sat<br />

high-profile fashion events to drive the brand's relevance.<br />

“We’ve raised the game starting a year back, putting more<br />

money behind not just driving awareness of the brand, but<br />

driving desirability as well,” Boyer said.<br />

“We are participating in those kinds of events in order<br />

to show that even though we are an accessible luxury<br />

brand from a price perspective, we also know what’s on<br />

trend, and we can be part of creating what’s on trend as a<br />

company.”<br />

Case study<br />

Still not convinced that fashion jewellery collections may<br />

offer something valuable to your store? Consider another<br />

Australian success story – Lovisa.<br />

Indeed, Lovisa is at the lowest end of the fashion jewellery<br />

category - and the types of products the chain offers its<br />

customers do not belong in fine jewellery stores.<br />

The standard, quality, and style of the jewellery differs<br />

entirely from fine jewellery collections; however, the point<br />

to be made is that there are many different categories and<br />

markets within the jewellery industry in which retailers<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 43


ROSEFIELD<br />

may find success.<br />

Independent retailers have to target a specific<br />

market, and that market can be widened - if<br />

need be - by expanding the demographics of<br />

visitors to any given store.<br />

The company was launched in Sydney in 2010<br />

to "fill the void for high quality, fashion-forward,<br />

and directional jewellery.”<br />

From humble beginnings as the ‘little sister’<br />

of Diva, Lovisa has blossomed into the leading<br />

fashion chain in Australia and a dominant figure<br />

in the wider jewellery industry.<br />

In the <strong>2024</strong> State of the Industry Report, Lovisa<br />

was documented as having 175 stores in<br />

Australia, with a strong presence in Victoria<br />

(47 stores), New South Wales (43 stores) and<br />

Queensland (43 stores).<br />

This is a particularly<br />

impressive expansion<br />

given that <strong>Jeweller</strong> had<br />

compiled chain store<br />

data as recently as<br />

2020.<br />

Lovisa had 140 stores<br />

before the pandemic,<br />

meaning that despite<br />

the challenges of<br />

lockdowns and forced<br />

store closures, the<br />

company could still<br />

aggressively expand<br />

– further<br />

evidence<br />

of the<br />

durability of fashion jewellery during difficult<br />

economic times.<br />

Lovisa recently reported an 18.2 per cent<br />

increase in sales in the first half of the financial<br />

year, reaching $373 million.<br />

The company opened 74 new stores during the<br />

six-month period and now operates in more<br />

than 40 countries worldwide.<br />

It must be said that the reasons behind Lovisa’s<br />

success go beyond product.<br />

Stores are in high-traffic locations such as<br />

shopping centres, and vertical integration ensures<br />

speed to market and frequent inventory turnover.<br />

With that said, much of the company’s<br />

advantage in a very competitive market comes<br />

from product innovation.<br />

With a short production cycle, Lovisa can drive<br />

consumer engagement by taking trends straight<br />

from the latest fashion shows and making them<br />

available for mass consumption as quickly as<br />

possible at affordable prices.<br />

Lovisa’s business strategy underpins the value<br />

of fashion jewellery – the company can offer<br />

a broad range of products capable of rapidly<br />

adjusting to involving trends and preferences at<br />

an affordable price.<br />

As mentioned, products similar to what is offered<br />

by Lovisa do not belong in fine jewellery stores.<br />

However, there are still valuable lessons to<br />

be learned from the company's success for<br />

independent retailers about the viability of<br />

affordable, on-trend products and the value of<br />

forging a connection with young consumers.<br />

Additional benefits<br />

Chains and independent jewellery stores are<br />

different businesses; however, for independent<br />

retailers there are lessons to be learned based<br />

on the successes of Pandora and Lovisa.<br />

While products from Lovisa and Pandora<br />

certainly don’t appeal to everyone, the rapid<br />

expansion and strength of sales for both<br />

chains – particularly during the pandemic -<br />

demonstrate the appeal of fashion jewellery.<br />

While independent jewellery retailers cannot<br />

replicate the impact of vertical integration,<br />

they can capitalise on the adaptability and<br />

consistently ‘on-trend’ nature of fashion<br />

jewellery.<br />

It’s also worth noting that Lovisa and Pandora<br />

have withstood recent economic downturns<br />

better than many other companies because of<br />

the low-cost niche nature of fashion jewellery.<br />

As a final point of consideration, it’s also worth<br />

noting that fashion jewellery offers retailers<br />

access to a new target demographic of resilient<br />

consumers.<br />

Fashion jewellery sales are dominated by<br />

younger, primarily female, consumers.<br />

While these consumers cannot make large fine<br />

jewellery purchases, they are unlikely to feel<br />

certain impacts of certain economic pressures.<br />

Put another way, the purchasing patterns of<br />

teenage girls are not burdened with mortgage<br />

repayments!<br />

These consumers also tend to pay close<br />

attention to evolving trends, where fashion<br />

jewellery can meet a need that traditional fine<br />

jewellery cannot.<br />

With that said, while these young consumers may<br />

not be on the search for fine jewellery today, in a<br />

few years, they almost certainly will be.<br />

By using fashion jewellery to forge a connection<br />

between these consumers and your business<br />

today, you’re increasing your chances to be<br />

front-of-mind when the day comes when they<br />

need to make that first major purchase.<br />

44 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

GUESS


CREATED<br />

DIAMONDS<br />

BY DGA<br />

Since 1962, Duraflex Group Australia have been proudly distributing international<br />

jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 45


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WATCH FEATURE<br />

Dialling in on Trends<br />

Predicting future<br />

trends in the watch<br />

industry is a tall task.<br />

SAMUEL ORD speaks<br />

with industry analysts<br />

from around the world<br />

about what lies ahead.<br />

CHOPARD


HUGO BOSS<br />

TAG HEUER<br />

T<br />

he past year was action-packed for the<br />

international watch industry, defined by<br />

surprising acquisitions and collaborations and<br />

the release and embrace of innovative new designs.<br />

For retailers, industry analysts, and consumers, it’s only<br />

natural that anticipation for what lies ahead would be high<br />

after such an exciting year.<br />

Just as you might stay up late to reach the end of a gripping<br />

novel or a finish must-watch television series, everyone has<br />

one question on their mind – what’s next?<br />

The increasing popularity of ‘smaller’ watches was one of<br />

the most significant talking points of 2023, as consumers<br />

and designers alike favoured comfort over statement.<br />

In January, GQ published a report compiling data from 230<br />

manufacturers to determine if watches are ‘getting smaller’.<br />

Author Cam Wolf found that while the average timepiece<br />

has not become notably smaller, larger watches are being<br />

phased out.<br />

“The fact that the overall average remained stagnant tells<br />

me the pieces we hold up as examples of shrinkage are<br />

really just new ends of a widening range,” Wolf writes.<br />

“Maybe it’s not necessarily that all watches are downsizing,<br />

but that there’s now a greater variety of available sizes.”<br />

It’s been said that the sign of a truly comfortable watch is<br />

that it ‘disappears’ on your wrist – it’s easy to forget it’s even<br />

being worn.<br />

Large watches also have to deal with empty space too. When<br />

a timepiece is unnecessarily large, excessive negative space<br />

can make the design feel empty.<br />

Australian editor of Time and Tide, Jamie Weiss, says that he<br />

expects smaller pieces to continue increasing in popularity<br />

with local consumers.<br />

“After years of larger case sizes being the dominant<br />

trend, I think we’re really starting to see smaller<br />

watches come into vogue - or rather, we’re seeing<br />

smaller watches finally becoming more popular among<br />

Aussies,” he tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“Big watches have not been truly fashionable at the top<br />

of the industry for quite a while, but Aussies - particularly<br />

Aussie men - love a big watch and have been a bit behind<br />

WATCH TRENDS<br />

Market<br />

Forecast<br />

Cam Wolf<br />

GQ<br />

“Maybe it’s not necessarily that<br />

all watches are downsizing,<br />

but that there’s now a greater<br />

variety of available sizes.”<br />

Jamie Weiss<br />

Time and Tide<br />

“Big watches have not been truly<br />

fashionable at the top of the<br />

industry for quite a while, but<br />

Aussies - particularly Aussie men<br />

- love a big watch and have been<br />

a bit behind the curve.”<br />

CHOPARD<br />

the curve.”<br />

Weiss attributed this shift in taste to the decreasing<br />

relevance of gender in design, as manufacturers<br />

increasingly attempt to create products that appeal to<br />

both men and women.<br />

“We’ll continue to see watch cases shrink down to more<br />

vintage proportions in <strong>2024</strong>," he continues.<br />

"I also think there’s definitely an increased interest in<br />

vintage watches, especially among Gen Z, so we’re likely<br />

to see more retro re-releases like the Piaget Polo 79 that<br />

was just unveiled."<br />

When asked about his favourite release of the past year,<br />

Weiss drew attention to the Chopard Alpine Eagle, otherwise<br />

known as the Sunburnt Red.<br />

The piece was hailed as a breakthrough in watch design<br />

and collaboration, with a conservative Swiss luxury<br />

watchmaker partnering with an Indigenous artist.<br />

“It’s cool to see a somewhat conservative Swiss luxury<br />

watchmaker back a young Indigenous artist – a hardcore<br />

punk musician and tattoo artist to boot – and give him an<br />

enormous amount of creative control,” he explains.<br />

“They’ve shown respect for Indigenous art and respect for<br />

the Australian watch market/community through this collab:<br />

it’s a turning point for watches in Australia.”<br />

Add a splash of colour<br />

The importance of size was a common trend among the<br />

watch industry analysts contacted by <strong>Jeweller</strong> for this story.<br />

Indeed, smaller timepieces are more of a celebration of<br />

watchmaking.<br />

Namely, the craftsmanship required to create an intricate<br />

clockwork far exceeds that of a large, cumbersome, but<br />

eye-catching design.<br />

Frank Geelen of Monochrome Watches says that he expects<br />

practicality and size to be a keen focus for designers.<br />

“I’m expecting to see smaller, slightly more<br />

compact watches – back to 38-39mm for noncomplicated<br />

watches, and 41-42mm as a maximum<br />

for chronographs and complications,” he explains.<br />

“We’ll see fewer complications for the sake of<br />

48 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


Since 1962, Duraflex Group Australia have been proudly distributing international<br />

jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 49


BRAND DIVE<br />

EDOX'S ANNIVERSARY<br />

140 YEARS OF WATCHMAKING<br />

Among the many Swiss brands occupying shelves<br />

and showcases in Australian stores sits EDOX, a<br />

watchmaker planning to celebrate an important<br />

anniversary with new special edition releases.<br />

EDOX – otherwise known as Montres Edox et Vista<br />

SA - was founded in the watchmaking hub of Biel in<br />

Switzerland by Christian Ruefli-Flury in 1884.<br />

EDOX celebrates its 140th anniversary this year,<br />

with festivities beginning in the Swiss city of Les<br />

Genevez, where the company manufactures more<br />

than 70,000 watches annually.<br />

The brand will mark the anniversary in all of<br />

the traditional ways – including special edition<br />

timepieces and new partnerships. Head of global<br />

sales, Leonhard Schweiger, says the brand will also<br />

use the opportunity to reflect on the past.<br />

“In a fast-moving world, remaining relevant is<br />

becoming more and more of a challenge. This<br />

said, a family-owned structure is not necessarily<br />

a downside in this case,” he tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“It actually allows decisions to be taken quite<br />

easily and fast since the members of the family<br />

have been in charge of strategic positions for<br />

several years now."<br />

He continues: "The most important point, then,<br />

is to find the right balance between modernity<br />

and heritage.”<br />

Since the 1960s, EDOX has specialised in<br />

producing diving watches, creating many<br />

patented technical features.<br />

For many collectors, choosing the right dive<br />

watch can lead to an endless rabbit hole of<br />

specifications, designs, and brands.<br />

The fundamentals are simple; however, there<br />

is a need for utility, durability, and versatility to<br />

ensure that it’s capable of being both a prized<br />

possession and everyday wear.<br />

While it can be a headache for consumers to<br />

choose the suitable model, there’s a good reason<br />

why they’re so popular – the proper dive watch is a<br />

blend of practicality and sophistication.<br />

Over the years, EDOX has distinguished itself<br />

through extremely water-resistant diving watches,<br />

which usually indicate both high-quality material<br />

and sophisticated case design.<br />

Schweiger says that offering value for money and<br />

maintaining high production standards has been<br />

pivotal to the brand’s success across 140 years.<br />

“Consistency has been the main ingredient for<br />

longevity, and that is how we want to celebrate.”<br />

After a three-year hiatus, EDOX returned to<br />

Australian stores in July 2022, announcing a new<br />

partnership with Duraflex Group Australia (DGA).<br />

Until 2019, the brand was distributed in Australia by<br />

Lion Brands.<br />

The brand announced its return at the 2022<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair in Sydney, where it was<br />

well-received by retailers. Marketing emphasised<br />

the importance of the Swiss watchmaker as being<br />

family-owned, offering a key point of difference<br />

from other mass-production brands.<br />

Expected to benefit from significant product<br />

development and repositioning, at the time, DGA<br />

managing director Phil Edwards was optimistic<br />

about the brand’s prospects in the Australian<br />

market.<br />

Two years later, he says the brand has rewarded<br />

that faith. All watches are hand-assembled in Les<br />

Genevez, Switzerland, with a single watchmaker<br />

responsible for assembly and regulation.<br />

Edwards says that’s been a decisive factor for many<br />

Australian retailers looking for quality assurance.<br />

“A lot of the initial retailers wanting to stock EDOX<br />

were watchmakers – having worked with many of<br />

the Swiss watch brands, they had great confidence<br />

in the quality of the watches,” he explains.<br />

“EDOX is the clever alternative to mass production<br />

brands. Given that some of those mass brands are<br />

exiting wholesale – our retailers are delighted to<br />

partner with a family-owned independent Swiss<br />

watch brand.”<br />

In the 1960s, the watchmaker released its iconic<br />

SkyDiver timepiece – a rugged high-performance<br />

tool watch produced for a Swiss military group.<br />

In the years that followed, the SkyDiver evolved, and<br />

its function-forward design eventually became the<br />

foundation of the Neptunian collection.<br />

When examining the EDOX catalogue today, it’s<br />

hard to look past the new EDOX Neptunian Grande<br />

Réserve, which meets all the style requirements of<br />

a modern dive watch while preserving the features<br />

that allow for durability.<br />

Edwards says this ability to innovate and evolve<br />

while maintaining the character of past designs<br />

makes the brand so popular.<br />

“EDOX provides high-quality Swiss watches with<br />

irreproachable water resistance at affordable luxury<br />

price points - these are the main components to<br />

reach consumer satisfaction, and that is what the<br />

brand delivers,” he says.<br />

Resilience in legacy, resilience in build<br />

Competition in the luxury market is fierce. There’s<br />

something for everyone, meaning consumers will<br />

find the perfect watch with enough research.<br />

Conversely, this diversity in brands leaves many<br />

retailers exhausted when trying to make the ‘right’<br />

choice about what to stock.<br />

“140 years of history means credibility and a<br />

rich heritage. There’s no denying this is a highly<br />

competitive category, but what sets EDOX apart is<br />

their willingness to truly collaborate with retailers –<br />

not dictate to them,” Edwards explains.<br />

“The brand's diverse range of collections also plays<br />

a key role in attracting retailers and consumers.<br />

EDOX offers a wide variety of styles catering to<br />

different preferences and lifestyles.<br />

“This versatility allows retailers to curate a diverse<br />

selection, appealing to a broader consumer base.”<br />

As a final note, dive watches are an unusual<br />

contradiction among collectors. In terms of<br />

practicality, most people do not need a watch that<br />

can survive a trip to the bottom of the ocean.<br />

With that said – this level of durability and<br />

performance is undeniably appealing. It’s akin to<br />

owning a sports car that can do 250 km/h – you’ll<br />

likely never drive that fast, but for some strange<br />

reason, it’s nice to know it’s possible.<br />

For Australian consumers, a dive watch is<br />

appealing for all the same reasons – we may never<br />

leap from an aeroplane above Airlie Beach or set a<br />

course record at Bathurst; however, there’s a sense<br />

of comfort in knowing that should that opportunity<br />

ever arise, we’ll have the right watch for the job.<br />

50 4 | | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


AUDEMARS PIGUET<br />

TED BAKER<br />

TOMMY HILFIGER<br />

complication and more practical usable watches for daily<br />

wear. Ultra-thin is also a trend that is strong.”<br />

Geelen also noted the increasing importance of colour in<br />

design, even for traditionally conservative manufacturers.<br />

Over the past 12 months, designers increasingly<br />

incorporated exotic materials for dials to offer a<br />

point of difference to competitors.<br />

Put another way; there was a notable shift in the use of<br />

colour in dials as brands searched for new ways to stand<br />

out in a crowded market.<br />

“The trend of more colourful dials, something that used<br />

to be reserved for niche brands, has now found its way to<br />

mainstream major brands,” Geelen continues.<br />

“I liked seeing more luxury and elegant sports watches,<br />

such as the Louis Vuitton Tambour, various AP Royal Oak<br />

models, Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto, and also the very<br />

affordable Tissot PRX.”<br />

He continues: “One particular piece that has my full<br />

attention is the first Rolex in titanium, the Yachtmaster<br />

in RLX titanium. The other one is the Chopard LUC<br />

1860 with the salmon dial – that’s timeless elegance!”<br />

The Louis Vuitton Tambour was also a release of great<br />

interest to Nick Hall of Man of Many, who suggests that<br />

it may have signalled a serious change in strategy.<br />

The brand’s iconic watch was reinvented with aunisex<br />

design featuring a slim case, a ‘first-of-its-kind’ integrated<br />

bracelet and an exclusive automatic movement.<br />

“I think the release of Louis Vuitton's Tambour last year was<br />

an interesting moment for the watch world,” Hall explains.<br />

“The luxury brand's flagship collection marked a renewed<br />

focus on traditional watchmaking that made a lot of purists<br />

stand up and take note.<br />

"It didn't so much signal a changing of the guard, but it did<br />

show that brands outside of the known watchmaking sphere<br />

could measure up to the Swiss masters. That may be an<br />

unpopular opinion, however.”<br />

Hold your horses<br />

With consumer confidence and discretionary spending at low<br />

levels, many analysts expect industry leaders to ‘play it safe’<br />

Frank Geelen<br />

Monochrome Watches<br />

“We’ll see fewer complications for<br />

the sake of complication and more<br />

practical usable watches for daily<br />

wear. Ultra-thin is also a trend that<br />

is strong.”<br />

Nick Hall<br />

Man of Many<br />

“I predict that most brands will stick<br />

to their ‘greatest hits’ and look to roll<br />

out anniversary models whenever<br />

possible.”<br />

Ariel Adams<br />

A Blog To Watch<br />

“Since we are in economically<br />

uncertain times, we will have large<br />

companies being very conservative<br />

and trying to make the watches they<br />

think the market currently wants.”<br />

in terms of design.<br />

This may lead to an emphasis on vintage pieces embodying<br />

‘classic’ designs that are proven performers with watch<br />

collectors.<br />

“Admittedly, the boom in luxury watches is starting to slow<br />

down, the result of economic constraints and a rising cost of<br />

living, so it's unlikely that we'll see watchmakers try anything<br />

too ambitious this year,” explains Hall.<br />

“I predict that most brands will stick to their 'greatest hits'<br />

and look to roll out anniversary models whenever possible.<br />

For established players, the ability to dip into the archives<br />

and revamp historical pieces will continue to be an important<br />

point of distinction.”<br />

Hall pointed to recent releases from Longines and Rado<br />

as examples of this principle in action, with iconic brands<br />

revisiting classic collections and revitalising them with new<br />

materials and movements.<br />

He suggests that this has increased the popularity of vintageinspired<br />

designs, characterised by smaller case sizes, simple<br />

dial layouts and GMT functionality.<br />

With that said, this may also open the door for emerging<br />

watch brands to capture new market share by offering<br />

innovative new products to consumers who don’t want to<br />

see ‘more of the same’ from major players.<br />

“Over the past three to five years, we've seen a significant<br />

uptick in interest across the watch market, predominantly<br />

within the luxury category,” Hall continues.<br />

“Brands such as Rolex and Omega will always be popular<br />

with consumers; however, watch fans are slowly broadening<br />

their horizons, actively working to educate themselves on<br />

microbrands and mid-tier luxury maisons. I expect this to<br />

continue in <strong>2024</strong>.<br />

Ariel Adams of A Blog To Watch agrees with Hall and thinks<br />

that major brands will avoid taking significant risks.<br />

“Since we are in economically uncertain times, we will have<br />

large companies being very conservative and trying to make<br />

the watches they think the market currently wants,” Adams<br />

explains.<br />

“Very little inventiveness and risk from the major watch<br />

brands in <strong>2024</strong> is most likely. Smaller brands will again<br />

have to be risky and provocative to get attention after a few<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 51


TIMEX<br />

CHRISTOPHER WARD<br />

easy years of doing business, thanks to spillover demand<br />

from Rolex.”<br />

Adams says that regardless of the direction these major<br />

manufacturers are taking, one thing is sure: finding out in<br />

advance will be difficult!<br />

“As you know, watchmakers are often quite secretive about<br />

what they are going to release,” he says.<br />

Wind back the clock<br />

Vintage and heritage-inspired timepieces remain as hot<br />

as ever; however, one analyst believes that manufacturers<br />

can’t afford to release anything uninspired.<br />

“It's getting to the point where the designs need to be<br />

extremely well-executed to get any attention,” writes<br />

Shane Griffin of Worn and Wound.<br />

“In fact, the vintage-inspired pieces that get a lot of attention<br />

- at least from watch blogs - are ones that have their own<br />

unique take on vintage, such as Lorca, Farer, Serica, and<br />

Laventure.”<br />

Few brands have enjoyed as much attention as Christopher<br />

Ward in recent years. After a brand ‘reinvention’ in 2020,<br />

the increased price and quality of timepieces haveincreased<br />

popularity among collectors.<br />

In 2023, Christopher Ward launched a new line of<br />

integrated bracelet sports watches that was one of<br />

the most passionately discussed releases.<br />

“Certain brands like Christopher Ward, Formex, and Ming<br />

have made room for some non-traditional designs/features<br />

that we'll likely see more of. I think the integrated<br />

bracelet trend will slow, but not necessarily to a halt,”<br />

explains Griffin.<br />

The market is generally moved by 80 per cent of<br />

what I would consider the ‘status quo’ for watch<br />

design, but it's the 20 per cent that is the most<br />

interesting, and I think most of that segment will<br />

be microbrands trying to fight for a piece of the<br />

smaller pie.”<br />

Another analyst quick to raise the significance of<br />

the Christopher Ward phenomenon was Rhonda<br />

Riche of Watchonista, , who said C2Bel Canto was one<br />

of her favourite releases of the past year.<br />

Shane Griffin<br />

Worn and Wound<br />

“It’s getting to the point where the<br />

designs need to be extremely wellexecuted<br />

to get any attention.”<br />

Rhonda Riche<br />

Watchonista<br />

“It’s a tough call. 2023 was a good<br />

year for watches, but there were so<br />

many releases.”<br />

LOUIS VUITTON<br />

“It’s a tough call. 2023 was a good year for watches, but<br />

there were so many releases,” she says.<br />

“The Christopher Ward C2Bel Canto stands out because<br />

this mechanical chiming watch was a little unexpected<br />

but beautiful and accessibly priced. It’s not surprising that it<br />

was an award winner.”<br />

Recipe for success<br />

While the watch industry strives to offer ‘something for<br />

everyone’ given how competitive the market is, collectors<br />

are notoriously tricky to please.<br />

While the past year brought about significant innovation in<br />

design, Griffin says that he hopes manufacturers continue to<br />

push the envelope.<br />

“I guess I'm a bit of a curmudgeon when it comes to<br />

watches, and it takes a lot to impress me these days,”<br />

he jokes.<br />

“I would stop well short of saying there weren't any nice<br />

watches released in 2023; however, I honestly wasn't moved<br />

much by last year's novelties.”<br />

While heritage and vintage-inspired designs are popular,<br />

offering something fresh is always the recipe for success.<br />

Griffin says there are several examples of watchmakers<br />

hitting the right balance between tribute and revitalisation.<br />

“That said, I've been impressed with a number of<br />

microbrands in general, and I do appreciate Omega's<br />

continued push to advance movement quality,” he adds.<br />

“I also think it's fair to give kudos to TAG Heuer and<br />

Breitling for tightening up some of their designs<br />

and properly calling back their heritages without<br />

making 1:1 reproductions.”<br />

Indeed, in a market as sensitive as watches<br />

and timepieces, predicting significant change is<br />

always difficult.<br />

Consumer tastes are fickle and can change<br />

quickly, while manufacturers and brands<br />

remain tight-lipped about future plans.<br />

With that said, it’s shaping up to be another year to<br />

remember for the watch industry.<br />

52 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND BY<br />

AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 53


SEE YOU AT:<br />

STAND GC58 AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

LUXURY PEARL & OPAL JEWELLERY<br />

54 | <strong>March</strong> 02 9266 <strong>2024</strong> 0636 • ENQUIRIES@IKECHO.COM.AU • WHOLESALE.IKECHO.COM.AU


AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

<strong>2024</strong> Buying Guide<br />

GOLD COAST<br />

SHOWTIME!<br />

The Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair is just weeks away, offering retailers the<br />

opportunity to add new products and collections to their stores in<br />

time for Mother's Day. <strong>Jeweller</strong> presents a Buying Guide packed with<br />

the latest products from some of Australia's leading suppliers.<br />

PLAN HEAD<br />

WITH THE<br />

BUYING GUIDE


BUYING GUIDE | AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

AV Diamonds Australia<br />

avdiamond.com<br />

STAND<br />

94-96<br />

Chemgold<br />

chemgold.com<br />

STAND<br />

16<br />

AV Diamonds Australia is a<br />

jewellery manufacturer with a<br />

strong international presence.<br />

The company focuses on the<br />

implementation of cutting-edge<br />

programs, sophisticated marketing<br />

strategies, and a dedication to client<br />

satisfaction.<br />

Chemgold has been supplying jewellery<br />

retailers and manufacturers across Australia<br />

and New Zealand for nearly 40 years. With<br />

a range of products and services developed<br />

with the needs of jewellers in mind, Chemgold<br />

offers a one-stop service to assist customers<br />

at every stage, from design, printing, casting,<br />

and finishing to refining, findings and bullion.<br />

Baume & Mercier<br />

DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA<br />

dgau.com.au/baume-mercier<br />

STAND<br />

84-88<br />

With a rich legacy spanning almost<br />

two centuries, Baume & Mercier<br />

takes pride in precise watchmaking<br />

that produces stylish and classy<br />

pieces of the highest quality.<br />

Baume & Mercier is distributed<br />

in Australia and New Zealand by<br />

Duraflex Group Australia.<br />

Classique<br />

SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA<br />

classiquewatches.com<br />

STAND<br />

63,78<br />

Classique watches are available in<br />

an array of metal and dial colours,<br />

featuring a bracelet band, with the<br />

option for a diamond bezel and fitted<br />

with Swiss quartz movement. With<br />

more than 55 years of experience in<br />

the industry, Sams Group Australia<br />

delivers quality timepieces and<br />

jewellery to the Australian public.<br />

BECKS Group Australia<br />

becksgroup.au<br />

STAND<br />

49-50<br />

BECKS remains committed to<br />

creating world-class wedding<br />

rings and jewellery products using<br />

only the finest precious metals,<br />

diamonds, and manufacturing<br />

techniques. For both retailers<br />

and their customers, BECKS<br />

stands by three powerful words -<br />

long live love.<br />

Cultured <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Design<br />

culturedjewellerydesigns.com<br />

STAND<br />

3<br />

Burgundy Diamonds<br />

burgundydiamonds.com<br />

STAND<br />

70<br />

Cultured <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Designs (CJD) is an<br />

Australian wholesaler of the world's<br />

finest quality pearls. The CJD collection<br />

has an extensive range of pearls,<br />

including South Sea pearls and Tahitian<br />

pearls, as well as colour gemstones and<br />

diamonds.<br />

Burgundy Diamond Mines (BDM) is an<br />

Australian resource company focused on the<br />

mining, production, manufacturing, grading<br />

and sale of diamonds. BDM owns and operates<br />

a manufacturing facility in Perth allowing for<br />

the polishing, grading and sale of exceptional<br />

white and fancy-colour yellow diamonds.<br />

56 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


UNDENIABLE<br />

PROVENANCE<br />

GUARANTEED<br />

TRACEABILITY<br />

A TRUSTED SOURCE OF FANCY COLOURED<br />

AND WHITE POLISHED DIAMONDS.<br />

Burgundy Diamond Mines is a global company focused on the mining, production,<br />

cutting, polishing and sale of diamonds. Our diamonds are ethically produced and<br />

sourced from Ekati Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories. For sales<br />

inquires, please contact polishedsales@burgundydiamonds.com.<br />

burgundydiamonds.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 57


Dialog<br />

dialogvault.com<br />

STAND<br />

31<br />

Dialog offers retailers a convenient and<br />

cost-effective way to access premium<br />

mined diamonds, lab-created diamonds,<br />

and jewellery styles through a flexible<br />

subscription model. Dialog was launched<br />

in November 2020 and is now featured in<br />

more than 100 stores around the world.<br />

Diamonds on Call<br />

diamondsoncall.com<br />

STAND<br />

79<br />

Diamonds On Call is a business-to-<br />

business e-commerce platform that<br />

assists thousands of diamond suppliers<br />

and retailers daily. Diamonds On Call<br />

offers users support for purchasing a<br />

diamond and quick delivery at a low cost.<br />

Distell<br />

distell-jewellery.com<br />

STAND<br />

74<br />

Distell was established in 1982 and is a<br />

family-owned business. Distell's strength<br />

is in colour gemstone jewellery across<br />

rings, earrings and pendants.<br />

The range has evolved over the past<br />

seven years, with products being<br />

designed for independent retailers in<br />

Australia and New Zealand.<br />

Georgini<br />

WEST END COLLECTION<br />

georgini.com.au<br />

STAND<br />

82-83<br />

Featuring delicate pink tones of<br />

Argyle pink diamonds<br />

Georgini <strong>Jeweller</strong>y will be exhibiting<br />

the latest collections at the Australian<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair, including the new<br />

Diamonds by Georgini Collection, featuring<br />

diamonds set in 18-carat gold plated<br />

sterling silver. Georgini is distributed by<br />

West End Collection.<br />

PinkKimberley.com.au<br />

Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199<br />

58 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


Gerrim International<br />

gerrim.com<br />

STAND<br />

44-45<br />

Celebrating 30 years as a<br />

wholesaler in the fine jewellery<br />

industry, Gerrim is a brand<br />

that prides itself on trust and<br />

loyalty and offers the<br />

assurance of elegance, style<br />

and quality. As designers and<br />

manufacturers, the company<br />

sources ideas and inspiration<br />

from around the world.<br />

House of Bond<br />

houseofbond.co.nz<br />

STAND<br />

7<br />

Established in 1972, House of<br />

Bond’s philosophy is quality<br />

jewellery at affordable prices.<br />

With more than 50 years in the<br />

industry, the House of Bond has<br />

built a reputation through integrity,<br />

respect, and a commitment to<br />

excellence in delivering exceptional<br />

results for customers.<br />

Imajpak<br />

imajpak.com<br />

STAND<br />

89, 90, 91<br />

Imajpak offers retailers a one-stop<br />

shop for all their jewellery packaging,<br />

jewellery displays, jewellery boxes and<br />

gift items. A proudly family-owned<br />

business, Imajpak has been servicing the<br />

jewellery industry since 1990.<br />

Swiss Made Mechanical<br />

Classiquewatches.com<br />

Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 59


BUYING GUIDE | AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Mark McAskill<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

markmcaskill.com.au<br />

STAND<br />

14-15<br />

Mark McAskill <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

manufactures fine quality ninecarat,<br />

18-carat and platinum<br />

jewellery. Proudly offering a range<br />

that consists of rings, earrings, and<br />

pendants in both colour gemstones<br />

and diamonds. Collections include<br />

Pink Caviar, Estelle, Lux, Aura,<br />

and Modern Bridal.<br />

Pink Kimberley<br />

SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA<br />

pinkkimberley.com.au<br />

STAND<br />

63,78<br />

Pink Kimberley creates pieces of jewellery<br />

that encapsulate the uniqueness and<br />

beauty of Argyle diamonds while making<br />

them wearable and elegant. Pink Kimberley<br />

pieces display bright, vibrant Argyle pink<br />

diamonds set in lavish designs.<br />

Sams Group Australia has more than 55<br />

years of experience in the industry.<br />

NCF AUS<br />

ncfaus.com<br />

STAND<br />

37<br />

NCF AUS began in Hong Kong<br />

20 years ago, specialising in<br />

the distribution of Made in Italy<br />

jewellery. In 2021 the company<br />

opened a branch in Sydney, aiming<br />

to bring unique designs, quality<br />

craftsmanship and the latest<br />

trends to independent retailers with<br />

products not available elsewhere.<br />

R&D <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

rdjewellery.com.au<br />

STAND<br />

54,69<br />

R&D <strong>Jeweller</strong>y was launched<br />

25 years ago, specialising in<br />

Italian-made jewellery.<br />

Since then, the range has<br />

expanded and evolved to<br />

meet market demands, with<br />

more than 200,000 lines from<br />

across the world available<br />

with quick delivery.<br />

PEKA<br />

peka.co.nz<br />

STAND<br />

42-43<br />

PEKA is a wholesale jewellery provider with<br />

an extensive range of gold and silver chains,<br />

pearls, findings, earrings and pendants. For<br />

more than 40 years, this award-winning family<br />

business has provided exceptional products<br />

and service to the trade across New Zealand,<br />

Australia and the Pacific.<br />

24-25<br />

RAD <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Wholesale<br />

radjewellerywholesale.com.au<br />

At RAD <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Wholesale, pride is<br />

taken in creating stunning designs<br />

with precious and semi-precious<br />

gemstones. From basic classics<br />

to extravagant and dressy pieces,<br />

the company offers a comprehensive<br />

selection to satisfy every<br />

discerning customer. These include<br />

earrings, rings, pendants,<br />

necklaces, and tennis bracelets.<br />

STAND<br />

60 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 61


BUYING GUIDE | AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA<br />

sapphiredreams.com.au<br />

STAND<br />

63,78<br />

Proudly presented by Sams Group<br />

Australia, Sapphire Dreams<br />

pieces combine timeless design<br />

with the unmatched beauty of<br />

Australian sapphires.<br />

The range includes earrings,<br />

bracelets, necklaces, and rings,<br />

capturing the allure and timeless<br />

elegance of sapphires.<br />

WOLF<br />

DURAFLEX GROUP<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

dgau.com.au/wolf<br />

STAND<br />

84-88<br />

WOLF represents decades<br />

of innovation and the<br />

pursuit of perfection,<br />

creating quality products<br />

that raise the standards of<br />

design. The WOLF watch<br />

stand is ideal for displaying<br />

timepieces at home, on your<br />

bedside table, office desk, or<br />

while travelling.<br />

Searay<br />

searay.net.au<br />

STAND<br />

59<br />

Searay is a leading Australian<br />

jewellery wholesale brand with a<br />

reputation for high quality<br />

designs and reliability.<br />

Since 2002, the company has been<br />

supplying an extensive range of<br />

jewellery to retailers in Australia<br />

and New Zealand.<br />

World Shiner<br />

worldshiner.com<br />

STAND<br />

21<br />

World Shiner is a diamond and<br />

jewellery wholesaler serving more<br />

than 10,000 customers globally<br />

across Australia, Germany, India,<br />

Italy, Japan, New Zealand, the UK<br />

and the US. World Shiner takes<br />

great pride in a legacy forged<br />

over three generations.<br />

Tusk Gallery<br />

tuskgallery.melbourne<br />

STAND<br />

2<br />

Tusk Gallery has been a colour<br />

gemstone wholesale supplier to<br />

the jewellery industry for more<br />

than 40 years and has been<br />

operating in Melbourne since<br />

2021. The company supplies high-<br />

quality Ceylon sapphires for an<br />

affordable price.<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

wdrings.com<br />

STAND<br />

39-40<br />

Vina <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

vina-jewellery.com<br />

STAND<br />

29-30<br />

Pinaroo <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Gifts began<br />

in 1989 and has since built a<br />

reputation and a loyal following<br />

of retailers and consumers in<br />

Australia and New Zealand.<br />

Pinaroo believes in not only<br />

crafting jewellery, but experiences.<br />

Worth & Douglas is a family<br />

business established in 1953<br />

with offices in Australia and New<br />

Zealand. Manufacturers and<br />

wholesalers of W&D wedding<br />

rings, including ZiRO – The Black<br />

Ring, Memento Flora and Fauna<br />

lines, bangles, men's jewellery,<br />

engagement rings, earrings<br />

and pendants.<br />

62 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


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<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 63


BUSINESS<br />

Strategy<br />

Improve trust in your business<br />

by asking the right questions<br />

It’s been said that trust, not money, is the currency of business and life.<br />

RYAN ESTIS details an effective strategy to improve trust within your business.<br />

“How can I support you in your work?”<br />

On the surface, it seems like a simple<br />

question; however, when business<br />

leaders pose it to their staff, the impact<br />

on bonding can be mighty because it<br />

immediately encourages vulnerability and<br />

establishes trust.<br />

As a leader, it demonstrates you care about<br />

your staff’s well-being and professional<br />

achievement. Your employees can feel<br />

safe asking for guidance — no matter how<br />

difficult the journey ahead gets.<br />

Vulnerability and trust are essential<br />

elements of leadership. It means giving<br />

others the benefit of the doubt and believing<br />

in the goodness of intentions. Trust can’t<br />

be demanded or assumed. Instead, leaders<br />

must earn trust through words and actions.<br />

Promoting authentic, open<br />

communication and vulnerability sets<br />

the stage for a high-performing work<br />

environment. Leaders who speak<br />

honestly about challenges they face and<br />

are overcoming empower team members<br />

to share their own challenges openly.<br />

The report described leadership<br />

competencies as ‘transmission circuits’,<br />

and these attributes can be oriented toward<br />

the behaviours that build trust. The research<br />

identified seven key competencies that<br />

business leaders should keep in mind.<br />

• The ability to establish connections that<br />

spread ideas and accomplish work<br />

• A drive for development that focuses on<br />

needs, expectations and aspirations<br />

• Comfort with leading change in strategy<br />

and alignment with vision<br />

• The capacity to inspire others by<br />

encouraging their efforts<br />

• Critical thinking that seeks information<br />

openly, invites dissent and stimulates debate<br />

• Communication skills that result in open<br />

and transparent dialogue<br />

• A need for accountability to hold everyone<br />

responsible for performance<br />

Gallup's research demonstrated a threefold<br />

increase in engagement among<br />

employees who trust their leaders.<br />

Employees who trust their leaders are<br />

61 per cent more likely to stay with their<br />

company and not search for another job.<br />

We’re<br />

hardwired<br />

to seek<br />

connections<br />

with our fellow<br />

humans,<br />

but those<br />

connections<br />

don’t always<br />

happen on their<br />

own. That’s our<br />

responsibility<br />

as leaders.<br />

yourself without knowing how other people<br />

will react. Even the most creative people<br />

will struggle if trust is low and vulnerability<br />

is viewed as a weakness.<br />

• Inspire innovation: Innovation is<br />

daring to disrupt the status quo. We<br />

often think of innovators as bold and<br />

brash, but that ignores the uncertainty<br />

and hard work involved.<br />

Innovation is about trial and error, with no<br />

guarantee of finding success. You need<br />

to trust others and yourself while being<br />

vulnerable enough to fail – sometimes<br />

over and over again.<br />

• Building meaningful relationships: To<br />

build connections that matter, you need to<br />

be approachable and empathetic.<br />

You don’t have to make grand gestures;<br />

you can lend an ear to a colleague or show<br />

interest in what someone says. Those<br />

small acts create trust and allow others to<br />

be vulnerable with you.<br />

That’s where deep and authentic<br />

connections begin to form.<br />

We’re hardwired to seek connections with<br />

our fellow humans, but those connections<br />

don’t always happen on their own. That’s<br />

our responsibility as leaders.<br />

According to a 2021 Gallup survey, only 23<br />

per cent of employees ‘strongly agree’ that<br />

they trust their leadership. That significant<br />

lack of trust isn’t just an internal problem –<br />

it ultimately translates to worse outcomes<br />

for your customers.<br />

Diving deeper<br />

Indeed, when you invest the time to<br />

cultivate trust, the payoff can be a source<br />

of tremendous competitive advantage by<br />

encouraging creativity, inspiring innovation,<br />

and building deeper relationships.<br />

• Open the door: Creativity thrives in an<br />

environment of trust and vulnerability.<br />

To be creative is to reveal a hidden part of<br />

Questions that build trust<br />

Over the years, I’ve developed a series of<br />

four questions a business leader can ask<br />

to help you quickly build trust in staff.<br />

This exercise works for new businesses<br />

and those that have just found themselves<br />

slipping into unhealthy patterns.<br />

It inspires more authentic, open, and<br />

vulnerable conversations firsthand. Let’s<br />

64 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


explore each of these questions and how<br />

you can use them to cultivate meaningful<br />

two-way conversations with your staff.<br />

• What’s something you can be grateful<br />

for right now? Begin the process<br />

toward greater trust and vulnerability by<br />

accentuating the positive.<br />

If you’re asked this question, look around<br />

and take a second to reflect: What can you<br />

be thankful for right now? How can you<br />

share that with your counterpart? As the<br />

leader, asking the question, how can you<br />

celebrate with them?<br />

There’s no right or wrong answer to<br />

this question. Your answer can be<br />

simple, like the cup of coffee you had<br />

that morning, or complex and profound,<br />

such as overcoming a health crisis or<br />

reconnecting with a loved one.<br />

This question opens the floor to let<br />

employees speak freely and candidly about<br />

what they’re grateful for while revealing<br />

something about who they are.<br />

• What’s something you’re struggling<br />

with? Answering this question can take<br />

time and effort. Maybe you’re fearful of<br />

rejection. Perhaps you can’t even admit to<br />

yourself that you need support.<br />

This powerful icebreaker can be the first<br />

step toward finding real solutions. For<br />

some employees, the chance to answer this<br />

question can overcome their fear of being<br />

hurt, especially if they have longstanding<br />

trust issues.<br />

Again, these answers can range widely,<br />

touching on personal or professional<br />

obstacles. You might need help with job<br />

performance or work-life balance. You<br />

might need help taking that next step in<br />

your career.<br />

As a leader, when you listen deeply and<br />

affirm your employees’ answers, you’re<br />

building a trusting relationship. You might<br />

even be able to provide actionable solutions.<br />

This same question can help you overcome<br />

sales obstacles. Make your customers<br />

challenge your challenge and support them<br />

in solving it.<br />

• What have you learned recently?<br />

Top professionals know there’s always<br />

something new to learn. This question<br />

allows every staff member to name<br />

something they can improve — for<br />

themselves and the business.<br />

Leaders set the tone here, too. If you can<br />

admit that you’re a work in progress in staff<br />

meetings, you’re showing vulnerability and<br />

giving permission for your employees to do<br />

the same.<br />

When everyone does this, you’ve got a group<br />

that’s been vulnerable and has seen they<br />

can trust each other.<br />

• What’s a fact about you that not too many<br />

people know? Trust and vulnerability aren’t<br />

just about work. Revealing a fun fact can<br />

change someone’s perspective of you for<br />

the better. And because you trust them, they<br />

can trust you with a fun fact of their own.<br />

For example, your newest sales hire shares<br />

that they run a marathon every year. You<br />

know right away that they are willing to put<br />

preparation, dedication and a ton of effort<br />

into achieving goals that are important to<br />

them. You know they have physical and<br />

mental endurance. And you know they<br />

don’t rest on their laurels because there’s<br />

another marathon to run the following year.<br />

FOUR<br />

QUESTIONS<br />

TO ASK TO<br />

BUILD TRUST<br />

What’s<br />

something<br />

you can be<br />

grateful for<br />

right now?<br />

Begin the<br />

process on a<br />

positive note.<br />

What’s<br />

something<br />

you’re<br />

struggling<br />

with?<br />

Encourage your<br />

employees to<br />

open up without<br />

judgment.<br />

What have<br />

you learned<br />

recently?<br />

There’s always<br />

something<br />

new to learn in<br />

business..<br />

What’s a fact<br />

about you that<br />

not too many<br />

people know?<br />

Dive deeper to<br />

learn more about<br />

the people you<br />

rely upon.<br />

Trust and vulnerability in your business<br />

US entrepreneur and philanthropist Marc<br />

Benioff once said, “trust has to be the<br />

highest value in your company, and if it’s not,<br />

something bad is going to happen to you.”<br />

With the research from Gallup detailed<br />

above in mind, I’m sure you’d agree he<br />

was right. With that said, what do trust and<br />

vulnerability look like in your business?<br />

You won’t always be able to run my<br />

questions to build trust in a staff exercise<br />

for every situation. With that said, there are<br />

many ways for leaders to begin practising<br />

vulnerability at work. Try adding these<br />

simple steps to your routine to strengthen<br />

employee engagement.<br />

• Admit when you need help<br />

• Tell people how they can support you<br />

• Clarify that the support you’re offering is<br />

really what they need<br />

• Let go of ego<br />

• Have courageous conversations<br />

Trust and vulnerability flourish on teams<br />

where people can freely communicate,<br />

connect, and try and grow — and get back<br />

up and try again if they fail.<br />

Leaders create these structures when<br />

they show up as their whole selves,<br />

embrace vulnerability, and empower<br />

others to do the same.<br />

How can you inspire trust and vulnerability<br />

in your business?<br />

RYAN ESTIS helps companies achieve<br />

breakthrough performance. He<br />

recently publshed a new book,<br />

Prepare For Impact. Learn more:<br />

ryanestis.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 65


BUSINESS<br />

Selling<br />

Products and sales:<br />

For your business, it's a game of two halves<br />

What’s the difference between product and staff training?<br />

DAVID BROWN explains the crucial distinction between two essential elements of retail.<br />

As any sports team knows, winning is<br />

about committing to all aspects of play<br />

for the entire game.<br />

You’ll seldom win with an excellent first<br />

half if the second one doesn’t back it<br />

up. You’ll also struggle if your offence<br />

is excellent, but the defence leaks like a<br />

sieve. Sales training is the same.<br />

In the competitive landscape of the<br />

jewellery industry, a store's success often<br />

hinges on its staff's expertise and skills.<br />

Staff training is an invaluable investment<br />

that goes beyond merely imparting<br />

product knowledge and leaving the staff<br />

the task of deciding how they will deliver<br />

it. Likewise, the best sales training won’t<br />

work if the product knowledge isn’t there<br />

to back it up.<br />

• Enhanced customer experience:<br />

Staff training directly contributes to the<br />

overall customer experience. When your<br />

staff are experts in product knowledge<br />

and sales techniques, they can offer<br />

customers a more personalised and<br />

informative experience.<br />

This not only builds trust but also<br />

increases the likelihood of making a sale.<br />

• Increased sales and revenue: Training<br />

is an investment that offers increased<br />

returns if done correctly. Well-trained<br />

staff understand the art of selling beyond<br />

presenting product features.<br />

Sales training equips employees with<br />

the skills to identify customer needs,<br />

overcome objections, and ultimately<br />

close deals. This translates to increased<br />

sales and, consequently, higher revenue<br />

for the store.<br />

• Brand consistency: Consistency<br />

is critical to maintaining a strong<br />

brand image.<br />

When your staff are uniformly trained,<br />

they convey a consistent message about<br />

your brand and its values.<br />

This consistency helps build brand trust<br />

among customers and, as a result,<br />

increases opportunities for sales.<br />

• Adaptability to industry trends: The<br />

jewellery industry is dynamic, with trends<br />

evolving rapidly. Staff product training<br />

ensures your employees are updated<br />

on the latest industry trends, emerging<br />

designers, and customer preferences.<br />

This adaptability positions your store as<br />

a trendsetter and keeps you ahead of the<br />

competition. Customers will view you not<br />

only as a retailer but also as a source of<br />

information, improving their relationship<br />

with your business.<br />

• Employee morale and retention:<br />

Providing training opportunities<br />

demonstrates that you value your<br />

employees and are invested in their<br />

professional development.<br />

This contributes to higher job satisfaction,<br />

which, in turn, improves employee<br />

retention. A staff member who feels<br />

supported and knowledgeable will likely<br />

be more engaged and motivated.<br />

It’s important to understand the difference<br />

between ‘sales training’ and ‘product<br />

training’ and ensure you get the right<br />

balance of each.<br />

What is product training?<br />

Product training centres on<br />

imparting knowledge about the items<br />

your store offers.<br />

When your staff<br />

are uniformly<br />

trained, they<br />

convey a<br />

consistent<br />

message about<br />

your brand, its<br />

values, and the<br />

quality of your<br />

products.<br />

This includes details about gemstones,<br />

precious metals, craftsmanship,<br />

and unique features that set your products<br />

apart. The primary goal of product training<br />

is to ensure that your staff is well-informed<br />

about the merchandise, as this knowledge<br />

forms the foundation for effective and<br />

meaningful customer interactions.<br />

Product training is often factual and can be<br />

delivered through manuals, workshops, and<br />

online courses. It provides employees with<br />

the technical information needed to answer<br />

customer queries accurately.<br />

What is sales training?<br />

On the other hand, sales training emphasises<br />

the ‘art’ of selling, as it is, indeed, an art!<br />

It encompasses various skills, including<br />

customer engagement, effective<br />

communication, objection handling, and<br />

closing techniques. The key objective of sales<br />

training is to empower your staff to turn<br />

potential customers into satisfied buyers.<br />

It's about understanding customer needs,<br />

building rapport, and guiding them through<br />

the purchasing process. Sales training is<br />

often interactive and involves role-playing<br />

scenarios, workshops, and ongoing coaching.<br />

It focuses on developing soft skills that are<br />

crucial in customer-facing roles.<br />

Stronger together<br />

While product training provides the<br />

foundational knowledge, sales training is<br />

the catalyst that turns that knowledge into<br />

successful transactions. Together, they<br />

enhance the overall shopping experience<br />

for customers.<br />

It is not merely about knowing the products<br />

but also about understanding the art of<br />

selling. This dual approach positions the<br />

store for sustained success, elevating<br />

its reputation and ensuring customer<br />

satisfaction in every interaction.<br />

DAVID BROWN is co-founder<br />

and business mentor with Retail<br />

Edge Consultants. Learn more:<br />

retailedgeconsultants.com<br />

66 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Management<br />

Beware presumptions! They’re a<br />

management trap you must avoid<br />

It’s human nature to make presumptions, but they can end in disaster.<br />

DALE FURTWENGLER explains how you can avoid making mistakes with self-reflection.<br />

While presumptions can simplify life,<br />

beware! They are equally likely to<br />

produce unintended results,<br />

particularly in business.<br />

Recently, I helped a friend develop a<br />

marketing message. I offered several<br />

suggestions based on what I presumed to be<br />

the interests of his market.<br />

As I reflected on our conversation later in<br />

the day, I realised that I hadn’t asked him any<br />

questions about the market or the results of<br />

previous attempts to reach said market. In<br />

that moment, I realised how often we act<br />

on presumptions that could be, and often<br />

are, erroneous.<br />

Presumptions arise naturally based on<br />

our prior experiences. They’re insidious<br />

in that we don’t realise that we’re making<br />

presumptions or that we are doing so without<br />

exploring both sides of the issue.<br />

In the situation outlined above, I offered<br />

advice after realising that I had no idea what<br />

strategies had worked previously in the past.<br />

I didn’t know what fears, anxiety, and<br />

frustration the management in his target<br />

market were experiencing. His background<br />

is working with larger organisations, while<br />

I specialise in smaller to medium-sized<br />

businesses. I hadn’t appropriately factored<br />

that difference into our discussion.<br />

Learning from history<br />

It’s important to make an effort to<br />

understand the successes and failures of<br />

previous strategies. In the example I outlined<br />

above, I didn’t have a strong understanding<br />

of what results had been produced by his<br />

previous marketing campaigns.<br />

Without this knowledge, how could I have<br />

concluded that my advice would benefit him?<br />

How could I be confident that my insight<br />

would lead to improved results?<br />

The simple answer is that I could only reach<br />

that conclusion by presuming that my prior<br />

experience was relevant - without the benefit<br />

of thorough analysis!<br />

Over the years, I had intentionally avoided the<br />

market he works within; consequently, there<br />

was little chance that I would understand<br />

the industry's intricacies, which are crucial<br />

in reaching an audience effectively with a<br />

marketing campaign.<br />

I presumed they were the same as those<br />

of the smaller and medium businesses I<br />

preferred working with. While that may be<br />

true in some instances, I’m sure there are<br />

other motivations and factors to consider<br />

when working with larger organisations.<br />

Without asking questions, I could only<br />

make presumptions about these factors<br />

and motivations because I have little firsthand<br />

knowledge to operate from.<br />

Market preferences<br />

I mentioned that I had intentionally<br />

avoided working with his target market.<br />

My experience with large organisations,<br />

albeit limited, was that they are heavily<br />

bureaucratic and slow-moving.<br />

In other words, their modus operandi<br />

isn’t aligned with my preference for a<br />

results-oriented, quick analysis, quick<br />

decision-making approach, which is often<br />

the hallmark of a small to medium-sized<br />

business, such as a jewellery store.<br />

That is not to say that my preferences<br />

are correct, while others are wrong. It<br />

simply means that the likelihood of either<br />

approach proving successful in the other<br />

market is small.<br />

That said, it’s easy to understand how<br />

presumptions about the interests of others<br />

Without this<br />

knowledge,<br />

how could I<br />

have concluded<br />

that my advice<br />

would benefit<br />

him? How<br />

could I be<br />

confident that<br />

my insight<br />

would lead<br />

to improved<br />

results?<br />

- when you have a different preference and<br />

strategy – can be way off the mark.<br />

With the importance of avoiding<br />

presumptions established, let’s examine a<br />

better approach for dealing with these kinds<br />

of situations.<br />

Question everything<br />

Presumptions are like emotions;<br />

they’re automatic responses to the<br />

situations we face. We naturally draw upon<br />

prior experiences to help navigate the<br />

current situation. Because presumptions<br />

arise naturally, and we can’t prevent<br />

ourselves from making them, you must<br />

allow them to occur – and then pause.<br />

Take the time to ask yourself important<br />

questions, such as: What information am<br />

I missing that might alter my perception<br />

of these circumstances? What could I be<br />

overlooking?<br />

As an example of this in action, during my<br />

reflection on the example I detailed above,<br />

I realised that I didn’t understand enough<br />

about my friend’s target market. I didn’t<br />

know the concerns of the leaders in his field,<br />

and I also didn’t particularly like working<br />

with his market!<br />

Those are important factors that, when<br />

overlooked, led to significant deficiencies in<br />

my knowledge –yet I still offered him advice.<br />

I’m sure you’ll agree this was not the right<br />

move, especially with a friend.<br />

Fortunately, it’s easy to improve on these<br />

kinds of mistakes. You can begin each<br />

day by reminding yourself that you won’t<br />

offer advice until you’ve asked yourself the<br />

following question: What information am I<br />

missing? What could I be overlooking?<br />

If you want to be of value to others, to your<br />

business, and your community, develop the<br />

habit of challenging your presumptions.<br />

DALE FURTWENGLER is a public<br />

speaker, author, and the founder of<br />

Teaching Confidence.<br />

Learn more: teachingconfidence.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 67


BUSINESS<br />

Marketing & PR<br />

Every successful marketing strategy<br />

begins in the same place<br />

Marketing campaigns are rarely successful without a thorough understanding of the target audience.<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND DUNN asks an important question – how well do you know your customers?<br />

Are you considering overhauling your<br />

marketing strategy and trying something<br />

new?<br />

Start by asking yourself an important<br />

question – how well do you know your<br />

customers? Knowing where to start<br />

when answering this vital question can be<br />

challenging.<br />

• What do they think about your<br />

advertising? This is another of the<br />

ongoing performance metrics you<br />

must follow to ensure you know your<br />

customers.<br />

What once amused or interested your<br />

customers in the past can become<br />

tedious and even annoying.<br />

To help you do so, I’ve assembled this<br />

helpful checklist of the facts you must<br />

have to develop a complete understanding<br />

of your customers.<br />

As you make your way through these<br />

questions, be sure to note any information<br />

lacking in your understanding of your<br />

customers. These are the areas you<br />

must improve upon to succeed in your<br />

marketing efforts.<br />

• Who is your customer? Start this<br />

process slowly. Begin by identifying all<br />

the basic information you have about your<br />

customers.<br />

This includes age, gender, location,<br />

income, and other obvious data points.<br />

What do they consume? What type of<br />

media do they gravitate towards? What<br />

do they value in a business? What is their<br />

motivation for shopping?<br />

Look at how much your customer spends<br />

on your product or service and how much<br />

they have available. How does what they<br />

spend compare with the amount they<br />

spend on your competitors? Is your share<br />

increasing or decreasing?<br />

What does your customer need? What<br />

solution are they searching for? Perhaps<br />

you can offer the solution to a problem<br />

they didn’t even know they had.<br />

• What business are you in? Although this<br />

refers more to the category<br />

than the customer, it is important to<br />

ensure you’re looking at this question from<br />

the perspective of your customers and<br />

your business.<br />

An answer such as ‘jewellery store’ isn’t<br />

enough. What type of jewellery does your<br />

business specialise in? Is there a focus<br />

on services, such as repairs and bespoke<br />

creation?<br />

Many businesses work with industry<br />

definitions rather than customer<br />

definitions. If you want to know your<br />

customers, you need to understand what<br />

specific category they are interested in.<br />

• Who are your major competitors?<br />

Maintaining a consistent understanding of<br />

who your competitors are will<br />

further strengthen your knowledge of<br />

your customers.<br />

If you complete a list of competitors and<br />

include why you view them as rivals, you<br />

may uncover new avenues for increasing<br />

your customer base.<br />

Furthermore, do you know as much about<br />

your competitors’ customers as you do<br />

about your own? Study this and work out<br />

exactly where you stand with them.<br />

• What do they think of your product?<br />

Product testing is an overlooked factor in<br />

business development.<br />

This shouldn’t just occur whenever a new<br />

product is launched. Your customers'<br />

perception of your products should be<br />

measured to some degree every year so<br />

that you keep your finger on the market's<br />

pulse.<br />

Furthermore, what do they think of the<br />

price? When answering this question,<br />

don’t just consider the price your customer<br />

pays for the final product. Do they<br />

purchase products online with packaging<br />

and extra shipping costs?<br />

Are they driving out of town, or even<br />

further, to make this purchase? All these<br />

factors add more to the perceived cost of<br />

your business.<br />

What does<br />

your customer<br />

need? What<br />

solution are<br />

they searching<br />

for? Perhaps<br />

you can offer<br />

the solution<br />

to a problem<br />

they didn’t even<br />

know they had.<br />

Ensure you know when your campaign<br />

needs updating from their perspective,<br />

not just yours.<br />

• What do they think about your online<br />

presence? Are your customers even<br />

aware of your business online? Is your<br />

business being noticed?<br />

Unless you thoroughly understand your<br />

customers’ habits online, chances are<br />

your marketing efforts will not reach<br />

them when and where they are most<br />

valuable.<br />

With that in mind, what do they think of<br />

your social media presence? You can’t<br />

hide your personality on social media or<br />

delete what you have already shared.<br />

The words you choose for a Tweet,<br />

the ideas you share on Facebook,<br />

the images you post on Pinterest,<br />

everything stays online – somewhere!<br />

Approach your online discussions in the<br />

same way you would any other form of<br />

communication and use the same tone<br />

and spirit.<br />

• Why do you sell? The most important<br />

question comes last.<br />

Why are you in the business you’re in?<br />

You need to be very clear on the answer<br />

to this question to know how to answer<br />

all the other questions.<br />

I suggest you return to the top, revisit<br />

each point, and answer them truthfully.<br />

By reviewing each question, I am sure<br />

your thoughts will have changed or at<br />

least been modified because of this new<br />

perspective.<br />

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN works<br />

with organisations that want to attract,<br />

delight, and retain more customers.<br />

Learn more:: c3centricity.com<br />

68 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Logged On<br />

Understanding your online presence:<br />

The truth about social media algorithms<br />

What is a social media algorithm, and how does it affect your business?<br />

SIMON DELL breaks down the fundamentals of social media marketing.<br />

Many of us have heard the term ‘social<br />

media algorithms’, and depending on how<br />

much time you spend on these platforms,<br />

you’ve probably noticed changes in your<br />

news feed.<br />

You may have even seen the news<br />

concerning Instagram CEO Adam Mosseri<br />

and his announcement of changes to<br />

the algorithm used on his platform and<br />

with that said, what does that mean for<br />

consumers and businesses?<br />

For better or worse, social media<br />

platforms such as Facebook, LinkedIn,<br />

Twitter, and Instagram regularly<br />

change their algorithms to reinvent how<br />

consumers experience content.<br />

Do you remember when Facebook just<br />

‘showed you everything’, with the most<br />

recent posts at the top? Those days are<br />

long gone, with social media platforms<br />

having more control of the content users<br />

can see.<br />

With that said, what’s the ‘truth’ about<br />

social media algorithms, and how do they<br />

affect your business and marketing?<br />

What are social media algorithms?<br />

Social media algorithms are simply a way<br />

to sort which posts you see and when.<br />

For example, your typical news feed used<br />

to be in reverse chronological order, so<br />

the most recent posts were at the top.<br />

Now, the methods are more complex<br />

and based on artificial intelligence and<br />

machine learning. In some cases, you<br />

can still choose to view your most recent<br />

posts first; however, the default setting is<br />

to show posts according to the platform’s<br />

algorithm.<br />

The intent is to create a better user<br />

experience – or so these platforms<br />

claim. Social networks want you to have<br />

a better experience so they can sell more<br />

advertising at a higher price, and that’s<br />

genuinely why algorithms exist.<br />

Every social media network is different;<br />

however, these algorithms aim to give<br />

social media users faster access to<br />

relevant content.<br />

The algorithm will often consider<br />

relevancy, shares, likes, retweets, user<br />

feeds, types of content, and quality<br />

content. For example, a high-quality<br />

piece of on-trend content will have more<br />

chances of appearing on a user’s feed.<br />

However, most of this is based on your<br />

behaviour on the platform. For example,<br />

you may see posts from people you<br />

interact with the most. You'll see more<br />

music-related posts if you search for a<br />

lot of music-related content. Using these<br />

metrics, the algorithm has a higher<br />

chance of showing users the content<br />

they will likely interact with by sharing,<br />

commenting on, or becoming a subscriber;<br />

these will, in turn, keep them on the<br />

platform.<br />

The issue for businesses and marketers is<br />

that the algorithm changes frequently, and<br />

the networks aren’t transparent.<br />

However, they often give out snippets of<br />

advice so marketers can keep up with<br />

what works best for their customers.<br />

Facebook’s algorithm, for example, seems<br />

to be moving away from content that is too<br />

explicitly sales-based, focusing more on<br />

relevant ‘conversations’. And why wouldn’t<br />

they? They want businesses to pay to<br />

advertise, not do it for free using the right<br />

hashtags.<br />

Algorithms for advertising<br />

The same principles apply to all social<br />

media advertising. For example, the whole<br />

basis of Facebook’s advertising program is<br />

The issue for<br />

businesses<br />

and marketers<br />

is that the<br />

algorithm<br />

changes<br />

frequently,<br />

and the<br />

networks aren’t<br />

transparent.<br />

that you should, in theory, be able to reach<br />

the right people at the right time.<br />

So, it delivers sponsored content and social<br />

media adverts according to your browsing<br />

history and other online interactions.<br />

The problem is that social media algorithms<br />

are never perfect. So, if you try to manage<br />

Facebook advertising yourself, you get nice,<br />

easy options to let Facebook choose your<br />

target audience and market accordingly.<br />

This is great; however, you don’t get the<br />

insight to your audience that a marketing<br />

professional could deliver.<br />

The ‘fresh content’ illusion<br />

Social media algorithms also work to<br />

keep users interested and engaged.<br />

Psychologically, if you keep seeing identical<br />

posts because you don’t follow many<br />

accounts, you think there’s nothing new,<br />

and you’ll check less frequently.<br />

A dynamic social media marketing strategy<br />

will help you ‘switch it up’ so it feels fresh<br />

and new whenever your users open the<br />

app. This altered news feed experience<br />

also allows social media companies to<br />

rotate more ads (impressions) through the<br />

user’s feed, which is appealing when selling<br />

advertising to businesses.<br />

Understanding the basic principles behind<br />

social media algorithms is crucial when<br />

determining your marketing strategy. With<br />

the above in mind, you should be able to<br />

optimise your approach to these platforms<br />

and deliver better results for your business.<br />

Keep this in mind: The secret to customercentricity<br />

is based on designing your<br />

world around an understanding of your<br />

customer’s needs and then focusing on<br />

meeting those requirements.<br />

This core idea relates to everything on<br />

this list — and should relate to everything<br />

in yours.<br />

SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO<br />

of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that<br />

provides marketing staff on demand.<br />

He specialises in digital marketing and<br />

brand management. Visit: cemoh.com<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 69


My Bench<br />

Alex Hamilton<br />

Artisans Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Age 55 • Years in Trade 36 • First job Cabinet maker<br />

SIGNATURE PIECE<br />

ANDROMEDA RING<br />

Remarkable 18-carat yellow and white gold with a 5.27-carat<br />

crystal opal, a halo of blue and green diamonds, and an outer<br />

halo of pink spinel and mandarin and tsavorite garnets.<br />

FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Sapphire.<br />

FAVOURITE METAL Platinum.<br />

FAVOURITE TOOL Pulse Graver.<br />

BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Pulse Graver.<br />

BEST PART OF THE JOB Handing a completed<br />

job to a customer and seeing the look of<br />

satisfaction on their face.<br />

WORST PART OF THE JOB<br />

Fixing jewellery that hasn’t been made well.<br />

BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Listen to all the<br />

advice you receive and take it on board.<br />

BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Try new techniques.<br />

BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH<br />

Neck and back from sitting for long hours.<br />

LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE The endless<br />

possibilities of being creative with metals and<br />

gemstones.<br />

70 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


<strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 71


OPINION<br />

Soapbox<br />

Will you embrace the advantages<br />

of Artificial Intelligence?<br />

What will your business look like in 10 years time? MARION VAN DER KROGT encourages<br />

jewellers to explore the advantages artificial intelligence may bring their businesses.<br />

After bursting into mainstream<br />

popularity two years ago, artificial<br />

intelligence (AI) has taken the retail<br />

sector by storm.<br />

ChatGPT became a household name,<br />

and many retailers – including jewellers<br />

– were left scrambling to keep up with<br />

the latest developments.<br />

When you’re already facing the long hours<br />

associated with running your own business,<br />

it can be challenging to find the time to stay<br />

on top of the latest ‘tech trends’.<br />

I recently had a fascinating experience<br />

listening to an outbound phone call made<br />

by an AI agent.<br />

The level of sophistication was<br />

indistinguishable from a human call<br />

centre agent.<br />

Fast, convenient, and consistent service<br />

are three commonly described attributes<br />

when customers are asked about their<br />

‘ideal’ business – these ‘AI agents’ meet<br />

these needs.<br />

Programs such as ‘chat bots’ can help<br />

customer care staff handle a high volume<br />

of enquiries without increasing personnel.<br />

These programs can also improve<br />

efficiency and productivity.<br />

Then, there’s the added benefit for your<br />

employees and the time freed up by not<br />

having to respond to repetitive online<br />

customer enquiries. This can prevent<br />

burnout among staff, who may grow<br />

weary when dealing with the same daily<br />

complaints or questions!<br />

Considering this matter from a more<br />

‘glass half full’ perspective, when more<br />

time is made for employees to focus<br />

on meaningful tasks, this can increase<br />

personal satisfaction from work. It’s a<br />

win-win outcome.<br />

This made me realise the potential AI<br />

holds for small jewellery businesses.<br />

It has the potential to ‘level the playing<br />

field’ and unlock new possibilities for<br />

independent retailers.<br />

Regarding jewellery, many businesses<br />

are already using AI tools to generate<br />

personalised suggestions to design<br />

customers' dream necklaces or rings.<br />

It won’t be long before customers<br />

approach you with their AI-inspired<br />

designs and ask you to bring them to life.<br />

AI is revolutionising the way we do<br />

business. Its impact is here to stay – and<br />

you need to be ready for this change, or<br />

you risk falling behind.<br />

With rapid advancements, are you<br />

keeping up with the new features and<br />

capabilities? Can you evaluate what's<br />

helpful for your business and leverage<br />

this technology effectively?<br />

As someone who helps jewellers run their<br />

businesses efficiently through technology,<br />

I've witnessed how quickly it can create<br />

new opportunities and even reshape<br />

entire industries.<br />

In the not-so-distant future, AI will<br />

empower small jewellery businesses with<br />

capabilities such as intelligent chatbots<br />

and advanced automation.<br />

Some programs provide invaluable<br />

insights, automate mundane tasks, and<br />

enhance customer experiences — all at<br />

a fraction of the cost these processes<br />

traditionally consume.<br />

There’s no shame in feeling cautious<br />

about the progression of AI in retail.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y is an industry rooted in<br />

tradition, and these traditions are<br />

meaningful.<br />

With that said, it would be foolish to<br />

resist the benefits these programs can<br />

offer your business for the sake of being<br />

contrarian.<br />

I think it’s important to focus on the<br />

"As someone<br />

who helps<br />

jewellers run<br />

their businesses<br />

efficiently<br />

through<br />

technology,<br />

I've witnessed<br />

how quickly it<br />

can create new<br />

opportunities<br />

and even<br />

reshape entire<br />

industries."<br />

positives these programs may bring<br />

to your business rather than fear the<br />

‘machines taking over’.<br />

While programs such as ChatGPT became<br />

overnight sensations, the development of<br />

these AI services has been gradual. Your<br />

business's adoption of these programs<br />

should also be gradual – you don’t need to<br />

hand the keys to a robot tomorrow!<br />

Whether it be implementing a chatbot<br />

to converse with customers online or<br />

installing a new program to manage your<br />

inventory – there are many options.<br />

Perhaps you could explore marketing tools<br />

that reduce time spent sending emails and<br />

making social media posts or consider<br />

sales analysis and forecast programs.<br />

So far, AI tools that focus on the marketing<br />

side of business have seen the highest<br />

adoption rate among small business<br />

owners. These include tools that assist<br />

with content ideation and creation by<br />

proposing relevant topics, writing emails,<br />

making social media posts and even<br />

AI-supported video editing tools. Perhaps<br />

that's where your business could begin.<br />

I chose to embrace AI's advantages for<br />

small businesses. It enhances operations,<br />

improves efficiency, and better serves<br />

customers. That’s a win for me!<br />

AI will help today's jewellers make their<br />

mark tomorrow – the degree to which it<br />

impacts your business is on you.<br />

With that said, let’s never forget the value<br />

of human courtesy – it never hurts to<br />

throw in a polite ‘please’ and ‘thank you’<br />

to our AI counterparts, just in case Skynet<br />

really is watching.<br />

Name: Marion van der Krogt<br />

Business: Alox CRM<br />

Position: Founder and CEO<br />

Location: Netherlands<br />

Years in the industry: 17<br />

72 | <strong>March</strong> <strong>2024</strong>


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