Jeweller - November 2023

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY NOVEMBER 2023
New Priorities
MEETING THE NEEDS OF TOMORROW'S
JEWELLERY CONSUMERS
Unlimited Potential
UNLOCKING HIDDEN RETAIL
OPPORTUNITIES WITH DIGITAL TOOLS
Digital Makeover
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STRATEGY TO THE NEXT LEVEL

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MEETING THE NEEDS OF TOMORROW'S
JEWELLERY CONSUMERS
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY NOVEMBER 2023
UNLOCKING HIDDEN RETAIL
OPPORTUNITIES WITH DIGITAL TOOLS
TAKE YOUR ONLINE MARKETING
STRATEGY TO THE NEXT LEVEL
NOVEMBER 2023
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
13 Editorial
30
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: November 2013
16 Upfront
33
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Game-changing gemmologists: V
18 News
60
MY BENCH
Kate Higgins
62
SOAPBOX
Fran Dorey
39 GREEN MANUFACTURING
Changing the game
Features
4Australia's casting and refining
industry is evolving its practices to
meet the needs of a new generation
of consumers.
44 TAKE A CLOSER LOOK
Big brand's big plans
39
44
47
CASTING AND REFINING
Precious metals suppliers are embracing change
BRAND SPOTLIGHT
Daniel Wellington outlines future plans
WAVE OF THE FUTURE
The sky is the limit for your business with cloud technology
4 Daniel Wellington has some significant
plans for the Australian jewellery market
over the next two years after securing an
exclusive distribution partnership with
Duraflex Group Australia.
Better Your Business
54
BUSINESS STRATEGY
Where do you begin with digital marketing? SIMON DELL offers helpful insights.
56
57
58
59
SELLING
SHEP HYKEN discusses the importance of understanding customer expectations.
MANAGEMENT
What was learned during COVID? MALCOLM SCRYMGEOUR reflects on the pandemic.
MARKETING & PR
GEORGANNE BENDER & RICH RIZER explains the fundamentals of display strategy.
LOGGED ON
THOMAS YOUNG outlines where you may be going wrong with your digital marketing.
New Priorities
Unlimited Potential
Digital Makeover
47 CLOUD TECHNOLOGY
Brave new world
4Jewellery retailers are fortunate to have
access to an increasing range of digital tools
designed to take their business to the next
level. SAMUEL ORD explores what's on offer
in the cloud for the jewellery industry.
FRONT COVER For more than
three decades, BECKS has provided
the Australian jewellery industry
with world-class precious metal
products and services. With a wealth
of knowledge and experience, the
company offers a fusion of passion for
Australian metals and fine craft.
Learn more: becksgroup.au
November 2023 | 11

WITH OVER 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE,
ATHAN WHOLESALE JEWELLERS
HAS REMAINED THE TRUSTED
SUPPLIER OF AUSTRALIAN
RETAILERS, OFFERING A PREMIUM
SELECTION OF 9 AND 18-CARAT
GOLD CHAINS, MOUNTS, EARRINGS
AND PENDANTS - ALL MADE IN
ITALY.
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION
ONLINE AT
WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU
(03) 9663 2321
INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU
WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU
602/220 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE
3000

Editor’s Desk
A picture of yesterday, today and tomorrow
It’s been said that ‘details create the bigger picture’. ANGELA HAN offers a sneak peek
into Jeweller’s most significant issue of the decade, published next month.
This year has come and gone in the blink
of an eye – it feels like I was buying a 2023
calendar only yesterday, and this week I
bought one for 2024! What is that say about
life not being a line but a flat circle?
The good news is that as far as Jeweller is
concerned, the end of another year means
the best is yet to come.
For the past six months, we’ve worked hard
on a State of the Industry Report (SOIR),
which will be published in December.
The findings will surprise most people
and answer some big questions about the
Australian jewellery industry. Here are a few
to get you thinking:
• How many independent jewellers are there
in Australia in 2023?
• How have jewellery chain stores grown and
evolved in the past decade?
• What’s in store for the jewellery industry
in 2030?
Our first SOIR was published in December
2010 – and while we intended to provide
a comprehensive update 10 years later,
COVID-19 put a stop to that.
Not only was the world in turmoil but
conducting an analysis during a global
pandemic where businesses were closing on
a daily bias would have made little sense, let
alone produce meaningful results.
independent – against Australia’s state-bystate
population. It was fascinating.
Another Jeweller study in 2003 reviewed
the number of jewellers in the major
shopping centres of Australia’s capital
cities. The report, ‘Too many jewellery
stores?’, surprised many industry experts,
including landlords.
We have revisited that 2003 study 20 years
later, and the insights are bound to make
you think!
Yesterday, today and tomorrow
Interestingly, the 2010 SOIR was published
against the backdrop of the 2008 Global
Financial Crisis, which had shaken the
international economy. Compare that to our
upcoming edition, which also comes during
great turbulence in the jewellery industry in
Australia and worldwide.
The Russian invasion of Ukraine continues
to have a devastating impact on the diamond
trade, while lab-created diamonds are
increasing in popularity with consumers as
the cost of production plummets.
Everyone is dealing with inflation and cost
of living pressures, particularly post-COVID,
and research recently published by the
Australian Retail Association revealed
that 55 per cent of small to medium-sized
retailers are concerned or uncertain about
the financial future of their business.
Even before
the pandemic,
we knew that
the Australian
jewellery
industry had
undergone
enormous
evolution, as
it had in the
decade before
our 2010
edition.
be conducted using a methodical analysis,
including establishing clear definitions. That
is, to measure something, you must first
define it - how can you measure and compare
something that is undefined?
Therefore, in 2010, we found that Australian
consumers were serviced by a total of 4,224
businesses selling fine or fashion jewellery
and watches.
But how about in 2023? What does the ‘big
picture’ look like today?
Jeweller will publish revised figures on the
total number of independent retailers and
chain stores, as well as showing how the
brand-only stores have evolved. Of course,
there will be an analysis of the buying
groups too.
Additionally, experts will share insights on
pressing matters, including the genuine
significance of provenance and 'sustainability'
for consumers, a 2030 forecast for the retail
industry, and a retrospective look at the
changes since our 2010 report.
You’re the voice of the industry
While compiling the report, we conducted
an industry survey, delving into some critical
issues within the trade. The survey consisted
of only 10 questions, but they provided an
enthralling and powerful statement on the
state of the industry.
Over 20 years in the making
Even before the pandemic, we knew that the
Australian jewellery industry had undergone
enormous evolution, as it had in the decade
before our 2010 edition.
Indeed, long-time readers of Jeweller would
be aware that our research predating 2010
sought to investigate many claims, including
the suggestion that chain stores were
overrunning independent jewellery stores.
At the time, commentators often pointed
to other retail categories where chain and
‘big box’ retailers had all but ‘obliterated’
small retailers, such as hardware, sports,
video and music stores.
About 15 years ago, the fear was that
the same thing was happening to familyowned
independent jewellers; however,
our research dispelled this myth.
We even compared the total number of
jewellery stores – fine and fashion, chain and
This is without mentioning the many other
issues facing Australian retailers and the
international jewellery industry.
Against all odds, the jewellery industry
managed to survive the challenges of the
2000s – and I assure you, the figures in
Jeweller’s upcoming report tell another
fascinating story.
How big are we talking?
The initial SOIR in 2010 presented a
panoramic view of the Australian jewellery
industry. It delineated important distinctions
within the industry – for example, creating
definitions for flagship, brand-only, and
fashion chain stores.
This year’s report will also provide updated
information on similar topics; however, it
has also become necessary to update our
definitions to reflect the evolution of and
changes in the industry.
Any research of significant magnitude must
To whet your appetite, here's the first
question. Retailers were asked to agree or
disagree with this statement: My business is
now more profitable than it was before the
COVID-19 pandemic.
The result is most intriguing, especially when
coupled with other data.
In business, becoming consumed by the
‘smaller details’ is easy. This is particularly
true in retail, where it’s common for
business owners and managers to become
overwhelmed by the volume and complexity
of day-to-day responsibilities.
Understanding this bigger picture will help
you plan for the future. Indeed, our report
provides information that many people will
find confronting - and some will attempt to
deny - however, when faced with challenges,
it’s always best to be armed.
Angela Han
Publisher
November 2023 | 13

IMPORTANT, RARE, NATURAL
THE SOURCE FOR NATURAL IMPORTANT DIAMONDS
IN WHITE AND FANCY COLOURS. GIA CERTIFIED
WHITE, YELLOW & ARGYLE TENDER STONES.
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CONTACT US

Upfront
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
Kentucky Fried Jewellery
4An upcoming New Zealand
designer has partnered with fast food
chain KFC to release a limited-edition
jewellery collection inspired by fried
chicken. To promote the return of the
Hot and Crispy Boneless Chicken
range, KFC has collaborated with
Nick Von Klawill and released a new
jewellery collection featuring 11 pieces
- with the proceeds going to charity.
‘The Boneless Collection’ features
hand-crafted sterling silver and
pearl necklaces.
Has anyone got the time?
4At a charity event, a Jacob & Co.
watch owned by rapper Jay-Z has
been sold for $US1.5 million. The
white gold Caviar Tourbillon World
Timer's dial and bracelet are set with
498 baguette diamonds, weighing 35
carats. The watch keeps time in 25
cities around the world. All proceeds
from the event were donated to the
Reform Alliance, a charity working to
reintroduce released prisoners into
society smoothly.
Diamonds for weapons
4According to a report by Insider,
Russian representatives are
exchanging diamonds for weapons
technology to be used in the conflict in
Ukraine. The representatives allegedly
circumvent banking restrictions using
intermediary accounts in Turkey and
the UAE and shell companies
in Kazakhstan and Armenia, according
to Pavlo Verkhniatskyi, a member
of the International Working Group
on Russian Sanctions based at
Stanford University. Russia needs
microchips, specialised tools, and
other crucial components to build
missiles and drones.
Rewind: Best Bench Tip
MAY 2015
“Have a hobby. It’s
important for the
creative mind to
have other outlets of
expression.”
DIKRAN MANJIAN
MANJIAN DESIGN WORKS
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
DeLong Star Ruby
4Discovered in Burma in the 1930s,
the DeLong Star Ruby is an oval-shaped
cabochon star ruby that weighs more
than 100 carats and has a six-rayed star
effect. The ruby was named after its
owner, Edith Haggin DeLong, a collector
of unique gemstones and minerals. He
purchased the ruby in 1937 from famed
collector Martin Leo Ehrmann. DeLong
donated the orchid-red star ruby to the
American Museum of Natural History.
In 1964, the ruby was stolen in a heist,
and while several stolen gemstones were recovered in 1965, the
DeLong Star Ruby was ransomed over several months. A Florida
businessman, John D. MacArthur, paid the $25,000 ransom and
the ruby was recovered from a phone booth.
Under the radar
4According to a report published
by Insider Intelligence, mobile
commerce - the shopping that
happens exclusively via mobile
phones - is set to exceed 10 per cent
of all retail transactions in the US
before 2025. Indeed, smartphones
have become so ubiquitous that it
has become easy to overlook their
importance in retail. Another report
found that more than 60 per cent of
shoppers use their phones to look
for more product information while
shopping in-store.
Timeless Trends
4Chunky chain necklaces are rarely
out of style, and this year has been
one to remember for fans of a heavily
adorned neckline. Many prominent
jewellery designers have experimented
with new collar-length chains in their
collections, and Kate Middleton recently
accessorised an autumnal outfit with a
chunky gold chain necklace..
Campaign Watch
4This season, GUESS has partnered
with Spanish Argentine model, influencer,
and TV star Georgina Rodríguez as the
face of a new worldwide advertising
campaign. Leaning into the theme of
lavish opulence, the campaign was shot
in the historic 19th-century Santo Mauro
Hotel in Madrid.
Image credit: Gettyimage
Image credit: GUESS
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalist Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com
Production Learoy Bangis art@befindanmedia.com • Digital Coordinator Riza Ortiz riza@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to
the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities
arising from the published material.

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

News
Michael Hill discusses
acquisition with retail rivals
Discovery may lead to new pink diamond deposits
A recently published scientific report may
contribute to the discovery of new deposits of
the world’s most valuable gemstones – pink
fancy colour diamonds.
In a paper published in the Nature
Communications journal, scientists from
Curtin University in Western Australia have
suggested that pink diamonds may be older
than initially thought.
The study aimed to improve the broader
understanding of the geological conditions
necessary for the formation of pink diamonds
and other colour varieties.
pink diamonds, but it's not going to be easy,”
Hugo Olierook, Curtin University geologist, told
ABC News.
Following the successful acquisition of Bevilles
earlier this year, five additional retailers have
reportedly approached Michael Hill International
about the possibility of a sale.
In April, the details of a $45.1 million between
Michael Hill and Bevilles were made public, with
CEO Daniel Bracken outlining plans for expanding
the store network.
According to a report from The Australian,
Michael Hill has since been approached by five
other jewellery and watch retailers to discuss the
potential for further acquisitions.
Three of those five retailers to propose a sale are
from Australia, and two are located abroad.
"It lines up with observations from insolvency
specialists over the various investment cycles
that tell this column that when the market enters
a downturn, jewellery, footwear, and menswear
stores are first to feel the heat,” writes Bridget
Carter of DataRoom.
“Michael Hill’s motive for its recent acquisition has
been to gain a share of the jewellery market right
from the luxury to the discount end, as its flagship
brand, Michael Hill, pushes towards the higher end
of mid-market shoppers.”
In August, Michael Hill announced the upcoming
launch of TenSevenSeven, a new high-end jewellery
brand focusing on personalised diamond rings.
Michael Hill’s sales increased by 5.8 per cent to
$629.6 million in the past financial year.
The company operates 275 stores in Australia,
New Zealand, and Canada.
It was previously believed that the pink
diamonds discovered in the Argyle Mine were
1.2 billion years old. They are now thought to
be at least 100 million years older, based on
the study of the age of elements in material
recovered from the mine.
Using lasers to analyse minerals and
rocks extracted from the Argyle deposit,
researchers believe that pink diamonds
were formed during the break-up of an
ancient supercontinent known as Nuna,
approximately 1.3 billion years ago.
The researchers describe three key ‘ingredients’
for the creation of pink diamonds. The first is
carbon, sourced from at least 150 kilometres
beneath the Earth’s surface.
The second is pressure – otherwise known as
non-isotropic stress and plastic deformation –
which causes diamonds to change their light
reflection and absorption properties.
The third ‘missing’ ingredient is now believed to
be a volcanic eruption, which forces diamonds
closer towards the Earth’s surface.
"I think using that sort of [diamond-producing]
recipe, I think we'll be able to find more of these
Rio Tinto has outlined plans for a tender
showcasing polished pink and red fancy
colour diamonds from the iconic Australian
Argyle Mine.
Known as the ‘Beyond Rare Tender’, the
company will showcase 48 lots in Australia,
Switzerland and Belgium, with bids closing
on 20 November.
The collection includes 87 diamonds weighing
29.69 carats. Pink and red diamonds from the
Argyle are paired with yellow diamonds from
Diavik in northern Canada.
Sinead Kaufman, chief executive of Rio Tinto
Minerals, said that the passion for fancy
Put another way, two continental crusts
collided around 1.8 billion years ago to form
a supercontinent.
The site of this collision is where pink diamonds
are discovered today, and the crash itself
caused changes in the crystal structure of these
diamonds and turned them ‘pink’.
Approximately 500 million years later, the
supercontinent broke up. This weakened the
region, allowing magma to erupt and carry the
pink diamonds closer to the surface.
This is important because the study of mountain
belts produced by the supercontinental breakup
could lead to the discovery of new pink
diamond deposits in Australia, Canada, Russia
and southern Africa.
"There's been at least three supercontinents we
know of," Olierook said.
"So any rocks that were deposited at the
time they broke up, those are the ones I'd be
looking at."
The Argyle Mine closed in 2020. The mine was
responsible for approximately 90 per cent of the
global supply of pink diamonds.
Dazzling collection of pink diamonds up for grabs
colours continues to burn.
"The Beyond Rare Tender is a new chapter for
Rio Tinto's diamonds business and a testimony
to the ongoing demand for highly collectible
natural diamonds," she said.
"Rio Tinto has a rich history of innovative
diamond sales and marketing events, and
this carefully curated collection will be in
strong demand by the world's finest jewellers,
collectors and diamond connoisseurs."
The Argyle Mine in WA closed in November 2020
and was responsible for approximately 90 per
cent of the world’s supply of pink diamonds.
18 | November 2023

News
Scandalous: LVMH chairman under investigation
SRK removed from Ukraine’s
list of Russian war sponsors
Shree Ramkrishna Exports (SRK) has been
removed from the list of international war sponsors
by Ukraine’s National Agency of Corruption
Prevention (NACP).
French luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton
Moët Hennessy (LVMH) chairman Bernard
Arnault is being investigated for possible
money laundering.
In Paris, the public prosecutor’s office has
revealed that Arnault’s dealings with Russian
billionaire Nikolai Sarkisov have been under
review for the past year.
The investigation focuses on transactions at
Cheval Blanc Courchevel, a luxury ski resort
in the French Alps owned by LVMH.
French newspaper Le Monde reported that
Sarkisov purchased a series of properties in
2018 via intermediary companies; however,
the ‘end-buyer’ is allegedly Arnault.
“The existence of the investigation was only
made public this week after Le Monde, the
French newspaper, reported that the French
authorities were looking into the purchase
in 2018 by Sarkisov of more than a dozen
properties in Courchevel, a ski resort in the
French Alps, through a complex web of shell
companies,” writes Aurelien Breeden of The
New York Times.
“According to Le Monde, citing information
from Tracfin, French financial investigators
suspect Sarkisov of being a straw buyer for
Arnault in the deal.
"It was not immediately clear why Arnault,
one of the world’s richest men, might have
used Sarkisov as an intermediary.”
Sarkisov, 55, owns and manages Reso-
Garantia, one of Russia’s largest insurance
companies, with his brother Sergei.
A spokesperson for Reso-Garantia said:
“Neither Reso-Garantia, nor Mr Sarkisov
personally has been involved in the transaction
that was described in the Le Monde article.
Mr Sarkisov and Mr Arnault have never met.”
Arnault is alleged to have paid Sarkisov
approximately $US21.2 million ($AU32.94
million) to own the assets, with the pattern of
transactions allegedly designed to mask the
funds' origin and the buyer's identity.
“All transactions were carried out by French
companies, through French notaries by French
lawyers on all sides. This was a usual real
estate deal,” the spokesperson said.
“The transaction was managed by a small
investment unit which invests professionally in
European real estate. It consisted of acquiring
flats in an old building in Courchevel from
various private owners, with the view to sell
them later to a developer once the entire
building was bought out.”
In a statement to CNBC, Arnault's attorney
Jacqueline Laffont dismissed the allegations as
'absurd and unfounded'.
"The transaction that allowed for the expansion
of the Hotel Cheval Blanc in Courchevel
is perfectly known and was conducted in
accordance with the law and with legal support.
The investigation, seemingly underway, will
demonstrate these facts,” she said.
“Furthermore, who could seriously imagine that
Bernard Arnault, who has developed over the
past 40 years the leading French and European
company, would pursue money laundering to
expand a hotel? I believe the senseless nature of
these allegations will be recognised by all.”
In recent weeks, speculation has ramped up
over the future leadership of LVMH, which is
owned by the Arnault family.
In September, the NACP claimed that SRK had
purchased $US132 million ($AU208.5 million) worth of
Russian diamonds in the first six months of this year.
The Mumbai-based diamond manufacturer
immediately denied the allegations, describing the
claims as ‘misinformation and baseless allegations.’
The company asserted it had not purchased rough
from Russia since January.
The NACP has now issued a statement praising
SRK for its commitment to complying with
international obligations.
"The refusal of companies such as SRK to purchase
Russian diamonds is a contribution not only to peace
on the European continent but, above all, to the
national security of India itself,” said agency head
Oleksandr Novikov.
“The long-awaited decision of the G7, which we hope
will be made soon, will be a historic milestone for the
diamond industry.”
In an 18 October statement, chief human capital
officer Nirav Mandir said that SRK would adhere to
national and international guidelines and comply with
regulations from the United Nations, the Office of
Foreign Assets Control, and other relevant authorities.
"We extend our heartfelt gratitude to the NACP
for their constructive assessment, which has led
to the removal of our company from the list of war
sponsors,” he said.
“We at SRK emphasise our dedication to peace and
harmony. We do not endorse or support any form of
war or conflict anywhere in the world."
“Our business ethos is grounded in promoting
goodwill, nurturing positive relationships, and
upholding the highest standards of corporate and
social responsibility.”
SRK has an annual revenue of approximately $US1.2
billion ($AU1.9 billion) and employs more than 6,000
people worldwide.
MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
November 2023 | 19

News
Silver linings in latest Australian
jewellery market analysis
Retail Edge has released its latest analysis of the Australian jewellery
market, identifying another decline in sales performance.
Following a nine per cent decrease in September, sales declined again
in October, this time by eight per cent on a year-on-year comparison.
Despite the sour results, sales in October remained nine per cent
higher on a two-year comparison. Unit sales decreased by 10 per cent,
which analysts attributed to a return to normal post-COVID trading’.
It wasn’t all bad news – comparative average sale increased by four per
cent on a year-on-year comparison and improved by eight per cent on a
two-year comparison ($249 from $231).
“Shifting consumer tastes is demonstrated in the different categories.
Diamond precious metal jewellery has seen a significant drop, with a
29 per cent decrease in performance compared with the past year,”
general manager Leon Van Megen explained.
“Meanwhile, colour gemstone jewellery sales increased by 37
per cent; however, that is from a much smaller base [$450,000
compared to $1.9 million].”
Sales of precious metal jewellery without a gemstone declined by six
per cent on a year-on-year comparison, while silver and alternative
metals decreased by 17 per cent.
“The movement in average sale, and the increase in colour
gemstone jewellery sales suggests consumers are still buying –
they’re just being selective as to what they are buying,” he continued.
“Those buying habits are changing. While the year-on-year comparison
is challenging, the overall story sees retail jewellers largely the same as
they were two years ago. The COVID bubble continues to deflate.”
Of the more than 400 independent retailers analysed, 32 per cent of
sale lines were discounted.
The pattern in laybys was positive, increasing by 10 per cent in dollar
terms between new orders and pickups or cancellations.
For repairs, revenue decreased by 17 per cent in dollar values
between new orders and pickups or cancellations.
Classiquewatches.com
“For November and December, this means using the data to
understand what changing consumer patterns look like in your
area,” Van Megen added.
“Purchase stock with care and sell with passion.”
Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199
In terms of special orders, sales decreased by 4.2 per cent in dollar
terms between new orders and pickups or cancellations.

WITH OVER 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE,
ATHAN WHOLESALE JEWELLERS
HAS REMAINED THE TRUSTED
SUPPLIER OF AUSTRALIAN
RETAILERS, OFFERING A PREMIUM
SELECTION OF 9 AND 18-CARAT
GOLD CHAINS, MOUNTS, EARRINGS
AND PENDANTS - ALL MADE IN
ITALY.
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION
ONLINE AT
WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU
(03) 9663 2321
INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU
WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU
602/220 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE
3000

News
Prada urges embrace of
lab-created diamonds
Lab-created diamond producer files for bankruptcy
Italian luxury fashion house Prada has released
its first fine jewellery collection featuring labcreated
diamonds.
The collection is named Eternal Gold and includes
heart-shaped earrings, snake-shaped rings,
and a necklace with thick rings of gold studded
with diamonds.
Prada’s first fine jewellery collection debuted in
October of the past year and featured recycled gold.
Jewellery director Timothy Iwata said the new
collection was focused on ‘pushing boundaries’.
“Lab-grown diamonds are not just about replicating
what’s possible for nature in a short period of time. It
takes about three weeks versus billions of years,” he
told The Washington Post.
“It’s just about that — it’s actually pushing the
boundaries of, one, the cut [of a stone], and two, the
idea of luxury material. It’s not just about customising
some existing material. We actually grow that material
for the client. You don’t get your own crocodile grown
to become your bag.”
He added: “For the jewellery industry to survive, I think
the jewellers need to embrace lab-grown.”
Lessons learned
The past two months have been action-packed for the
lab-created diamonds industry.
The world’s largest mass-market jewellery brand,
Pandora, released three new collections, while WD
Lab Grown Diamonds, the second-largest diamond
producer in the US, filed for bankruptcy.
According to the latest research from industry
analyst Tenoris, lab-created diamond jewellery retail
sales value increased by 47.3 per cent in the US in
September on a year-on-year comparison.
“Some speak of ‘shooting stars’, products that very
quickly capture market share and generate high cash
revenue, but then burn out quickly and fade. Products
move from one category to another based on how well
they are managed,” writes Edahn Golan.
“If lab-created diamond proponents don’t carefully
manage their rising star, this fast cash-generating
product may become a ‘poor dog’ in no time.
"If there is a lesson the sector should learn from De
Beers, it’s how to keep your non-essential product
alive and interesting for more than a century.”
Interestingly, the percentage of retailers selling labcreated
diamond bracelets increased by 90 per cent in
September on a year-on-year comparison.
Stud earrings and engagement rings increased by 28
per cent, while retailers offering necklaces improved
by 58 per cent.
The second largest lab-created diamond
producer in the US, M7D Corporation, has filed
for bankruptcy in the US.
Based in Washington DC, the company is owned
by private equity firm Huron Capital and trades
as WD Lab Grown Diamonds.
M7D Corporation has filed for Chapter Seven
bankruptcy, which enables the elimination of
debt as the company goes out of business.
According to the filing in Delaware, the company
has $US44.8 million ($AU70.9 million) in
liabilities and possesses assets valued at $US3
million ($AU4.75 million).
WD Lab Grown Diamonds has been producing
lab-created diamonds since 2008 using the
chemical vapour deposition method.
The company generated $US33 million
($AU52.55 million) in revenue in 2022; however,
it has been unable to overcome production
competition from India and China.
Diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky
told The Financial Times that the company's
collapse demonstrated that “it’s getting very
difficult for anyone to compete with the Chinese
and Indian producers”.
WD Lab Grown Diamonds named JC Jewels its
authorised distribution partner in Australia and
New Zealand in 2022.
Legal woes
Others have suggested that the issues faced by
the lab-created diamond pioneer extend further
than the cost of production.
In 2020, WD Lab Grown Diamonds sued six
companies, alleging infringement on patents
it had licensed from the Carnegie Institution
of Washington.
While most companies settled, one defendant
- Fenix Diamonds - fought the suit and denied
using any of Carnegie’s technology. Fenix is a
supplier of lab-created diamonds to Michael
Hill International.
In 2021, US District Judge Jed Rakoff dismissed
Carnegie’s claims and entered a summary
judgment in favour of Fenix.
Carnegie issued an appeal; however, on 5
September, the Court of Appeals granted
Carnegie’s request to withdraw their appeal.
Naman Parikh, managing director of Fenix
Diamonds, told Jeweller: “From the outset,
Fenix advised Carnegie that we would litigate
this case to the end.
“Fenix was looking forward to the Court of
Appeals affirming Judge Rakoff’s detailed
and crystal-clear opinions. We stand by our
processes, our customers, and the integrity of
our business.”
WD Lab Grown Diamonds reportedly reached
settlements with ALTR Inc., Pure Grown
Diamonds, and IIa Technologies, while claims
against Mahendra Brothers and RA Riam
were withdrawn.
Rob Bates of JCK Online said that while these
legal battles represented an opportunity for
profit, they may harmed the company’s standing
with the rest of the industry.
“The fact that the company didn’t even attempt
a restructuring, and there’s no apparent
purchaser of its assets, is a stark reflection of its
pre-filing financial condition,” he said.
“The patent battle hurt WD with one of its main
assets: its reputation.
“In the early days of lab-created diamonds,
some considered their competitors either too
murky or too controversial. The people at WD, by
contrast, were generally well-liked. The lawsuits
blew up a lot of goodwill.”
WD Lab Grown Diamonds' most significant
debtor is a private credit asset management
firm named Tree Line Capital Partners, which is
owed $US36 million ($AU56.97 million).
22 | November 2023

News
Remarkable blue diamond
falls short at auction
Gold & Opal Jewellery: Ellendale Diamonds
overwhelmed by positive feedback from new release
Ellendale Diamonds has been thrilled by
the reception to the release of Kimberley
Champagne and Australian Gold Nugget Seals,
a gemstone and precious metals collection.
The collection features sealed Kimberley
champagne diamonds and locally sourced gold
nuggets, emphasising the unique nature of
Australia’s gemstones and precious metals.
Chris Soklich, director at Ellendale Diamonds,
told Jeweller that the reaction to the collection
has been glowing.
“Our clients have been impressed by its
uniqueness and affordability, expressing their
admiration for this unique product in the market,”
he said.
“The affordability, combined with its
distinctiveness, has resonated strongly with our
customers, and they’re pleased to have pieces
that reflect the unparalleled charm of Australia’s
natural heritage.”
Australian opal jewellery has been all the rage
recently, particularly in Asian markets.
Ellendale Diamonds is preparing to release a new
jewellery collection featuring opal and diamonds
crafted in the company’s Perth workshop.
One of the world’s largest blue fancy colour
diamonds, the Infinite Blue, has sold at Sotheby’s in
Hong Kong for $US25.3 million ($AU39.78 million).
The 11.28-carat fancy vivid blue VS2 TypeIIB
diamond is set in an 18-carat white and pink gold
ring with a halo of pink and white diamonds.
It was something of a disappointing outcome at
auction after narrowly missing its $US26 million
($AU40.88 million) presale estimate; however, it did
achieve the third-highest return for a blue diamond
in Asia.
The Infinite Blue is one of the few blue diamonds
above 10 carats that have gone under the hammer
and was discovered in the Cullinan Mine in
South Africa.
Chairman of jewellery and watches for Sotheby’s
Asia, Wenhao Yu, said that while the Infinite Blue
may not have set any new records, demand for
fancy colour diamonds remains strong.
“It's been an honour to have been entrusted
with the opportunity to offer a diamond of such
breathtaking beauty, its price attesting to the
resilient demand for top quality coloured diamonds
amongst global collectors," he said.
The most expensive blue diamonds sold at
auction are the 15.10-carat De Beers Blue and the
14.6-carat Oppenheimer Blue, which both returned
more than $US57 million ($AU90 million).
“The opals are perfectly complemented by
an array of vibrant colours of pink, yellow and
champagne diamonds, each carefully chosen to
enhance the opal’s natural beauty,” Soklich added.
“These opals are hand-selected, celebrating their
mesmerising spectrum of hues that evoke the
essence of the Australian landscape.”
Australia accounts for approximately 95 per cent
of the world’s supply of gemstone-quality opal.
Online auctions cancelled by key diamond producer
The world’s largest diamond mining company,
the De Beers Group, has suspended all online
rough auctions for the remainder of the year.
The decision was made to stabilise a sluggish
market, with the company also offering
sightholders ‘full flexibility’ at the remaining
two sales of the year.
The announcement comes as De Beers
publishes the results from its latest cycle,
which generated just $US200 million
($AU314.1 million) in sales.
Hosted between 18 September and 3 October,
the cycle marked a 61 per cent decline in sales
on a year-on-year comparison and a 46 per cent
decline from August.
“De Beers reduced its rough diamond availability
and made sales of $US200 million as the
industry’s midstream rebalances certain areas
of stock accumulation,” CEO Al Cook said.
“De Beers will continue to support its
sightholders to help re-establish equilibrium
between wholesale supply and demand by
providing full flexibility for rough diamond
allocations in sights nine and 10 of 2023.”
De Beers hosts ten sights each year in
Botswana, with the next scheduled to begin
on 23 October.
Rival diamond mining company Alrosa recently
cancelled its September and October allocations
to ease oversupply pressure.
24 | November 2023

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News
Confidence in the future: Pandora details ambitious strategy for expansion
The world’s largest mass-market jewellery
brand, Pandora, has raised its targets for
the next three years, attributing the positive
outlook to extensive investment in the brand
and store network.
Despite a decline in the overall jewellery
market, the company has increased sales
in the US, which now accounts for 30 per
cent of total revenue.
“Looking back at the past few years, we are proud
of our achievements. We have fundamentally
changed how we work, and the organisation is
much stronger,” CEO Andrew Lacik said.
“It’s clear that Pandora is a very different
company today. It’s time to take Phoenix to the
next level, and our new financial targets reflect
our confidence in the future.”
Pandora is now aiming for an increase of like-forlike
sales of four to six per cent, an improvement
from the previously forecast three to five per cent.
The company plans to expand its store network
by around three per cent, improving from one
to two per cent, and is anticipating revenue of
DKK27 billion ($AU5.97 billion) for 2023.
Pandora is forecasting sales as high as DKK36
billion ($AU7.96 billion) in 2026, with plans for
more than 400 store openings between now
and then.
The company will also expand engraving services
for more than 1,400 stores in 2024.
Lacik told Reuters that while discretionary
spending and consumer confidence remain
concerning, Pandora has been sheltered from
the impact of adverse economic conditions.
"I'm not saying we are unaffected; however, we
are softening the blow by gaining market share,"
he said.
China accounts for just three per cent of
Pandora’s revenue; however, Lacik said
that expanding into the Asian market will
remain a priority.
“Building a sizeable business there will be
a longer journey than originally anticipated,”
he said.
Pandora recently released a new collection
dedicated to Game of Thrones, and launched a
range of lab-created diamond jewellery.
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26 | November 2023

News
Diamond certification company
tackling climate change
The environmental impact of the lab-created diamond industry is an
important point of contention for many consumers and retailers.
Lab-created diamonds are often touted as the ‘ethical’ or ‘sustainable’
alternative to natural diamonds; however, critics have suggested
otherwise and accused the industry of ‘greenwashing’.
Earlier this year, research from the Natural Diamond Council
highlighted the significant amount of electricity required to
produce lab-created diamonds. China and India produce more than
60 per cent of the world’s supply of lab-created diamonds. In China, 63
per cent of electricity is generated from coal, and in India, that figure
sits at 74 per cent.
“The environmental sustainability of lab-created diamonds isn’t clearcut
and depends on mining and production techniques,” writes Amber
Schultz of the Sydney Morning Herald.
“One 2019 report found that mined diamonds produced 69 per cent
less CO2 per carat than lab-created diamonds. For companies that
use renewable energy, lab-created diamonds can have a fraction of the
carbon footprint of mined diamonds.”
Taking a new approach
A new company has been established to address some of these issues.
Based in Melbourne, Clear Neutral offers an independent
certification program to verify that lab-created diamonds are
carbon neutral. Its aim is to ensure that jewellery retailers can
speak confidently when addressing customers' concerns about the
environmental impact of lab-created diamonds.
The company has created a rigorous verification process, which
includes calculating the energy required to create each diamond. The
estimated carbon emissions are then offset through a network of
renewable energy programs. Clear Neutral marketing director Noah
Cher told Jeweller that by displaying the company’s logo on their
products, retailers and manufacturers can confidently inform their
customers that their diamonds have been produced with minimal
environmental impact.
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“Greenwashing harms genuine environmental efforts. At Clear
Neutral, we prioritise authenticity. Every diamond we certify is
accompanied by a comprehensive report confirming its carbon-neutral
status,” he explains.
“Our certification isn't merely a seal; it's a promise anchored in
rigorous data and genuine intent. Through our proprietary system, we
measure the carbon footprint during various stages, even considering
factors like stone size, country of origin, and growth type.”
Cher says Clear Neutral’s strategy has four key components –
beginning with an independent assessment of the carbon footprint of
partner companies. The company emphasises transparency during
this process, and all parties have access to pertinent information.
The company advocates for sound environmental practices as an
impartial third party in the relationship between suppliers and
retailers. Finally, Clear Neutral connects businesses with practical
carbon offset projects to mitigate climate change.
“Our future vision is ambitious. While we've successfully established
ourselves in Australia, we aim for a global footprint,” he explained.
Clear Neutral provides marketing materials to be used in physical
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News
Ancient jewellery collection
unearthed outside Zurich
Gold jewellery of the Pharaohs arrives in Australia
A man with a metal detector examining a carrot field
in Switzerland has uncovered an extensive collection
of ancient jewellery dating back to the Bronze Age.
In August, Franz Zahn was exploring the countryside
in Güttingen, northeast of Zurich, when he unearthed
a bronze disc and contacted local authorities.
Archaeologists identified the find as a necklace,
accompanied by an extensive jewellery collection
estimated to be from the Middle Bronze Age, dated
to approximately 1500 BC.
Archaeologists recovered rings, golden wire
spirals, and more than 100 amber beads in the
soil surrounding the necklace.
Eight spirals of gold and 14 bronze discs were
recovered, believed to be ‘costume’ or fashion
jewellery women wore approximately 3,500 years ago.
“The depot came into the ground at a time when
important advanced cultures were flourishing in the
Mediterranean region in Egypt and Crete,” a statement
from the Thurgau Office of Archeology reads.
“Hardly any settlements are known from this era in
Thurgau. In Güttingen, a few years ago, a large Bronze
Age pile-dwelling village with rich finds was examined
in the area of the ‘Mouse Tower’, although this only
dates back to around 1000 BC duration.”
The artifacts are being restored and will be
exhibited in the Museum of Archaeology in
Frauenfeld, Switzerland.
The unusual find in Switzerland follows other recent
discoveries of ancient treasures found by people with
metal detectors in Europe, including the ‘gold find of
the century’ in Norway.
It’s well known that humans have adored
jewellery for thousands of years; however,
have you stopped and considered what life
was like for jewellers so long ago?
The largest cultural exhibition to visit
Australia in more than 10 years arrives in
Sydney in November, with the launch of
‘Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs’ at
the Australian Museum.
It’s an interactive experience featuring more
than 180 priceless artefacts and ornate golden
treasures, including jewellery.
Head of exhibitions at the Australian Museum,
Fran Dorey, said it would be a rewarding
experience for those passionate about jewellery.
“One of the main attractions of the Ramses
exhibition at the Australian Museum is the
jewellery,” she told Jeweller.
“From the four-kilogram necklace of rolled gold
to very delicate cartouche rings, some of these
artefacts are more than 3,500 years old, and
every piece of jewellery in this exhibition tells a
fascinating story.”
She added: “Within the exhibition are some of
the finest examples of Egyptian jewellery from
any period. I am particularly interested in the
stories attached to these female artefacts from
12th Dynasty princesses.”
The exhibition is dedicated to the life and
times of King Ramses II, who ruled Egypt
for nearly 67 years – the second-longest
reign of any pharaoh.
All the objects showcased are sourced from
museums and historical sites in Egypt and are
on loan to the exhibition from Egypt’s Supreme
Council of Antiquities.
The connection between personal ‘story-telling’
and jewellery is well known; however, this
phenomenon was taken to another level in
Ancient Egyptian society.
It was believed that jewellery worn by royal
women gifted them superhuman powers,
allowing them to better support their kings as
‘guarantors of divine order’ on Earth. Because
the king benefited from these supposed magical
powers, his name was embedded in the designs
and not that of the princess.
Dorey said that one piece in particular
– the Collar of Psusennes I – was sure to
amaze visitors.
“This solid gold collar, crafted more than
3,000 years ago, is made of seven rows of thin,
disk-shaped gold beads. It is heavy, weighing
4.3 kilograms,” she said.
“Collars of this type were known as the
shebyu or ‘gold of honour,’ traditionally given
by a pharaoh to officials who had served with
particular distinction. This collar closes at the
back with a golden clasp decorated with the
king’s cartouches, flanked on one side by a
seated figure of Amun and on the other by a
seated figure of the goddess Mut.
“The inscription is carved into the gold and
inlaid with semi-precious gemstones.”
NSW Minister John Graham said that for those
passionate about the mysteries of Ancient
Egypt, it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
“Egypt was one of the most powerful
civilisations in the centre of the ancient world,
and we are thrilled some of the greatest
Egyptian treasures are coming to Sydney with
Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs,” he said.
Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs opens on
18 November and runs until 19 May 2024.
28 | November 2023

10 Years Ago
Time Machine: November 2013
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
4 Thomas Sabo reveals jewellery ambassador
4 Hunger Games inspires jewellery trend
4 Australia to help combat diamond mixing
4 ‘Artistic’ launch for Swarovski jewellery
4 Swatch ordered to continue movement supply
$89 million for pink diamond
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
Spreading the good word
““Sadly, most referral systems just don’t
work. While retailers can try dangling the
most attractive incentives in the world in
front of their customers, the reality is that
everyone is too busy dealing with their own
business to find the time to market anyone
else’s, regardless of the payback.”
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
The “Pink Star” – believed to be the largest
known fancy pink diamond – has secured
its place in the world auction record books
for the highest price paid for a diamond or
jewellery item.
Weighing almost 60 carats, the oval-cut
stone mounted on a ring sold for US$83
million (AU$89 m) at a Sotheby’s auction in
Geneva last week. The diamond has been
renamed the “Pink Dream” by winning
bidder Isaac Wolf.
Multiple media sources reported that the
auction took a mere five minutes, with four
bidders competing for the diamond.
The previous world auction record for a
diamond or gemstone was held by the Graff
Pink diamond, which sold at a previous
Sotheby’s auction in Geneva for about US$50
million (AU$53.3 m).
Smartwatch available to Aussie
jewellers
Jewellery retailers will be given the
opportunity to sell smartwatches with the
announcement that a local supplier has
secured the distribution rights to one such
device.
West End Collection (WEC) is the official
supplier in Australia for the Burg smartwatch
phone – a wristwatch developed by Dutchman
Hermen van den Burg. What makes the Burg
watch different from other smartwatches
is that it can be paired to a wearer’s
smartphone or operate as an independent
phone (most smartwatches don’t act as
stand-alone phones).
WEC managing director John Rose said the
global demand for wearable technology was
enormous and as such it was important
for the supplier to be at the forefront of the
smartwatch market.
November 2013
ON THE COVER Dora
Editor’s Desk
4Jewellery retailers better off
“In this era, personalisation is
becoming increasingly important and
retailers must ask themselves, “Am
I selling why I do things or am I just
selling ‘things’?”
And as tough as business might
seem right now, you should consider
yourself fortunate that you’re in an
industry that thrives on relationships
and emotion and that you still have the
ability to differentiate yourself from
competitors."
Soapbox
4 A clockwork problem
“Clockmakers have a much more
conservative customer, which
makes it hard to create a volumedriven
market. My business has
customers in America, England
and Australia; they are engineers,
property developers, large
companies and businessmen.
Many are serious clock collectors,
aged from 50 to 70 years old. It’s
not all bad news. I believe there is a
future for the bespoke clock-maker."
Deryck Noakes
- Buchanan of Chelmsford
Linneys responds to
coloured diamond demand
Linneys is hoping to capitalise on what
appears to be an increased demand
for coloured diamonds by launching a
collection that features more coloured
stones than any range previously released
by the jewellery retailer.
The 2014 Cote d’Azur collection is said to
be inspired by the romance and glamour
of a summer escape on the French
Riviera and comprises more than 20
pieces that incorporate blue, yellow and
pink diamonds.
Linneys assistant creative director Justin
Linney said be believed consumers
were attracted to coloured diamonds
because they had an element of rarity
and individuality, which was important for
people wanting to purchase a unique and
collectable item.
Pandora jewellery capitalises
on social media
Pandora Australia is embracing the digital
age, having recently hosted a launch party for
its latest jewellery collection that had a strong
focus on social media.
The Essence range, said to be unlike anything
the brand has produced previously, was
showcased to a select group of fashion and
lifestyle media professionals who were
encouraged to post images of the event on
social media network Instagram.
Pandora launched a global Instagram
account in October this year, just in time for
the release of the Essence collection.
30 | November 2023

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REVIEW
Gems
Gemmologists who changed the game:
Jack Stanley Taylor
The latest addition to this series of gemmologists
who left their mark on the world of gemstones and
jewellery is a man who likely contributed to the
education of many readers of Jeweller.
Born in August of 1910 in Greenwich (NSW), Jack Stanley
Taylor was one of the founders of the Gemmological
Association of Australia (GAA) and is referred to as the
‘father of Australian lapidary.’
Taylor’s grandfather and father were both jewellers, the
founders of fine jewellery retailer W.C. Taylor & Co. The
family-run business opened in the 1920s on King Street
in the Sydney Arcade and operated as a specialist in
diamond jewellery until the 1960s.
Jack joined the family business after finishing school, as
all the Taylor children did. Here, he started his jewellery
apprenticeship directly under his father and grandfather.
By the 1940s, Jack had fallen in love with gemstones
more than jewellery and started to drift away from
the retail side of the industry. He enrolled in a
gemmology course offered by the Federated Retail
Jewellers Association (FRJA), taught by the then
-Curator of Minerals at the Australian Museum,
Thomas Hodge-Smith.
Taylor completed the course alongside John Pope,
Arthur Wirth, Arthur ‘Sandy’ Tombs, and Alan Philby.
Shortly after graduating, the FRJA ceased offering their
courses, and Taylor, Tombs, and Wirth believed they had
identified a gap in the market.
Australia needed more formal education opportunities
in gemmology. With the desire to educate the industry,
gemstone enthusiasts, and consumers, these three
colleagues joined forces and proposed the foundation
of the GAA.
To acquire academic standing for the association,
Taylor, Tombs, and Wirth approached Dr. G.D. Osborne,
a professor of geology, and D.R. Mellor, a reader in
chemistry, and requested their support. As fellow
gemstone enthusiasts, Osborne and Mellor were
happy to contribute.
The GAA’s inaugural meeting was held on 29 October
1945 in Sydney. Tombs was elected chairman, and Taylor
was elected secretary. Osborne accepted the office of
patron, and Mellor took that of president.
Jack Stanley Taylor, FGAA
GEMMOLOGIST AND LAPIDARIST
» Born: 1910
» Died: 1988 (Age 78)
W. C. Taylor & Co was a fine jewellery
retailer on King Street in the Sydney
Arcade until the 1960s.
In just five years, the association had created
divisions in Victoria, Queensland, South Australia,
and Western Australia.
In October 1947, Taylor sat his exams and completed
the first diploma in gemmology. He was the first to earn
the postnominals FGAA (Fellow of the Gemmological
Association of Australia).
In the following years, Taylor remained a lecturer and
passionate contributor to the world of gemmology. In
1953, he appeared on a radio interview with Radio 2GB
Sydney, promoting the art of gemstone cutting and
fashioning. He announced he was seeking like-minded
individuals who may want to learn more.
After receiving considerable interest, Taylor called a
meeting and invited all parties to discuss the formation
of a club where its members could discuss and learn the
art of lapidary.
Later that same year, Taylor officially founded the New
South Wales Lapidary Club – the first in Australia. He
was elected president and took to forming his own
lapidary business and publishing works such as ‘Gem
cutting as a hobby in Australia.’
Throughout his life, Taylor travelled around Australia,
fossicking and operating his successful lapidary
business. Today, a sample of his extensive gemstone
collection can be seen in the Australian Museum in
Sydney and the NSW division of the GAA.
Taylor was a passionate man who loved sharing
knowledge on gemstones. His dedication to the world
of gemmology, along with Tombs and Wirth, may well
be the reason many in Australia can call themselves
gemmologists today.
• The author would like to express her gratitude to
Jill Taylor, daughter of Jack Stanley Taylor, for
her generous assistance in preparing this article.
Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT began her career
in the industry at Diamonds of Distinction in 2015.
She now balances her role at the Gemmological
Association of Australia with studying geology at
the University of Queensland. Visit instagram.com/
mikaelah.egan For more information on gems and
gemmology, go to www.gem.org.au
November 2023 | 33

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Lab Grown Diamonds
A GLIMMERING FUTURE
OR HIDDEN ETHICAL DILEMMA?
There’s a sweeping wave of change in the global diamond market, and it’s sparking
both interest and scrutiny. Consumers are flocking to lab-grown diamonds,
lauded for their non-mined origins and identical physical properties to their
mined counterparts. However, a lingering question refuses to fade: What about
the energy used to produce them?
While lab-grown diamonds are
heralded as a modern alternative, they
also cast a shadow on environmental
sustainability.
Cultivating these diamonds in a
laboratory is an energy-intensive
process. A single carat might consume
over 200 kWh of energy, equivalent to a
family’s entire weekly consumption.
Indeed, lab-grown diamonds have
merits such as higher accessibility,
quality, and yield. But we can’t ignore the
environmental costs. This complexity
reveals a nuanced landscape with its
own challenges, with some viewing
lab-grown diamonds as an ethical
solution and others questioning that
very ethics.
This has led to more interest in carbon
offsetting, which helps reduce the
harm diamond production can do to the
environment.
This approach helps build trust with
buyers, showing them that their
jewellery purchases are responsible
and not just about looking good.
As sustainability gains momentum,
companies like Clear Neutral are
leading the way. By specialising in
making lab-grown diamonds carbon
neutral, Clear Neutral offers a precise
solution that integrates seamlessly
with existing suppliers.
Clear Neutral uses extensive research
and a proprietary system to accurately
assess a diamond’s carbon footprint
through its growing, cutting, and
polishing stages. Considering factors
like stone size, country of origin, and
growth type, they offset emissions
conservatively, ensuring no negative
impact is overlooked. Investments in
projects such as renewable energy
and waste management underline their
commitment to ethical responsibility.
“The way we see it, the journey towards
a truly ethical diamond doesn’t end
in the lab; it continues in the choices

The journey
towards a
truly ethical
diamond
doesn’t end
in the lab.
DENHAM HOPMAN
CLEAR NEUTRAL
we make to mitigate our impact on the
planet,” says Denham Hopman from
Clear Neutral.
“With Clear Neutral, we’re striving
to make this complex process as
transparent and accessible as possible
for both retailers and consumers.”
The consumer market is growing
increasingly discerning. Recent studies
indicate that a staggering 90%* of
global consumers express a preference
for responsibly sourced products.
Moreover, 83%* are willing to dig a little
deeper into their pockets for ethically
produced merchandise.
When it comes to the jewellery sector,
the statistics are equally revealing.
An impressive 68% of Millennial and
Generation Z consumers say that
sustainability concerns could be a dealbreaker
in purchasing diamond jewellery,
according to a recent Bain & Company
survey on the global diamond industry.
Embracing sustainable practices isn’t
just about saving the planet; it’s good
for business. A 2023 Deloitte report
revealed that 72% of employees in retail
organisations with leading sustainability
programs are committed to their current
jobs.
Ultimately, the journey
towards ethical
perfection is far from
over. Clear Neutral and
other initiatives like
it offer an incredible
opportunity for the
jewellery industry to
embrace responsible
practices.
Buyers like Jake Goodwin also appreciate
an ethically sound supply chain. “It’s
more than just a gem; it’s a statement
of who I am,” he says. The sentiment
echoes among consumers like Ainsley
Caulfield, who notes, “I love the idea
of wearing a diamond that’s not only
beautiful but also kinder to our planet.”
Jewellers themselves are taking notice
of the growing ethical concerns.
“More and more people are asking about
lab-grown diamonds. They love that
they’re more sustainable, but they’re
also concerned about the energy used
to produce them,” says Jordan Cullen,
Managing Director of Cullen Jewellery.
“We need to ensure we’re addressing
those concerns head-on.”
Ultimately, the journey towards ethical
perfection is far from over. Clear Neutral
and other initiatives like it offer an
incredible opportunity for the jewellery
industry to embrace responsible
practices. The opaquely symbiotic
relationship between jewellers,
consumers, and the environment will
continue to evolve.
What seems clear, though, is that the
path towards ethical consumption and
responsible retailing is not just a trend.
It’s a necessary evolution that resonates
deeply with the buyers, employees, and
society at large.

Introducing
Clear Neutral
In an age where every consumer choice carries weight, the jewellery industry
faces the essential task of aligning with ethical standards and environmental
consciousness. Enter Clear Neutral.
Carbon Neutrality for Modern Jewellers
Join the Movement
Millennials and conscious buyers are demanding
more. Don’t miss the opportunity to align your
business with their values and stand out.
Only Offset as You Sell. No Upfront Costs.
Your investment in sustainability doesn’t
have to be burdensome. Clear Neutral’s
unique model allows you to offset as you sell.
No hidden fees, no initial investments – only
pay for what you need, when you need it.
Use Your Current Supplier
Stick with your trusted suppliers. Clear Neutral
works alongside your existing supply chain,
providing carbon neutrality solutions without
the need to switch suppliers.
Pricing to Fit Your Business
Starting from just 2% of the diamond’s value,
carbon neutrality is accessible. Your customers
will likely not even notice the price difference,
but the planet surely will.
Boost Employee Retention
A commitment to ethical sourcing aligns with
staff values, enhancing satisfaction and retention.
Future-Proof Your Brand
Aligning with sustainability and ethics ensures
that your brand stays relevant, respected, and
ahead of the regulatory curve.

Clear
Neutral?
It’s your Path to
Sustainable Luxury
Carbon Offsetting, Simplified for You
Using existing identifiers, we measure the carbon footprint of
each lab-grown diamond through all phases: growing, cutting,
and polishing. We then offset it by investing in environmental
projects like renewable energy. This intricate task requires
expertise; let us handle the complexities for you.
Carbon Credits Verification
Clear Neutral only purchases internationally-recognised
carbon credits. They all meet the following requirements: real,
measurable, additional, permanent, and independently verified.
A Partner in Authenticity
Our physical reports provide tangible proof of your ethical
sourcing. Authenticity is key to building customer trust.
Not-For-Profit
We’re transitioning to a non-profit model to further our dedication
to responsible sourcing and environmental stewardship.
Online and In-Store
Marketing Materials Provided
We provide professional marketing materials, customised
for your store and website, that highlight your commitment
to sustainability.
Transform Your Jewellery Business
with Clear Neutral Today.
Your customers want this.
Your business needs this.
With Clear Neutral, the path is clear,
and the future is bright.
CONTACT US TODAY
1300 208 897
www.clearneutral.org
@clearneutralofficial
info@clearneutral.org

FEATURE
Casting & Refining
REFINING PUBLIC PERCEPTION:
Some consumers can be concerned about the
environmental impact of jewellery manufacturing.
SAMUEL ORD details the steps precious metals suppliers
are taking to improve industry standards and practices.
BECKS

Casting & Refining | GREEN MANUFACTURING
Left: Furnaces are used to melt
precious metals at Morris and
Watson. Right: Wax injection
during the casting process at
Morris and Watson.
W
hen consumers consider the origins of
jewellery, whether it be shiny precious
metals or dazzling diamonds and
gemstones, it can be difficult to sell a story of
environmentalism.
Mining conjures thoughts of crude machinery digging deep
beneath the Earth’s surface, extracting raw materials and
leaving behind giant craters and mountains of dirt.
One way or another, these perceptions need to be challenged
when securing the jewellery industry's future.
Indeed, forging a relationship with the next generation of
jewellery consumers is crucial to the future success of your
business. So, what is the consumer of tomorrow looking for in
a business?
The answer is increasingly ‘purpose’. Consumers desire longterm
partnerships with businesses and brands they perceive as
invested in the world outside the four walls of their store.
According to an intriguing report by US-based marketing
consultancy firm Edelman, two-thirds (64 per cent) of
consumers said they would purchase or boycott products from
a company based on a social or political issue.
An increase in ‘belief-driven buyers’ was identified in markets
worldwide, and it wasn’t a trend restricted to any specific
income bracket.
Of the 8,000 people surveyed, more than half (53 per cent) said
they believe that brands and businesses can do more to resolve
social issues than governments.
A similar number (54 per cent) said they believe it is
easier for brands and businesses to address social issues
than governments.
“Brands are now being pushed to go beyond their classic
business interests to become advocates,” CEO Richard
Edelman says.
“It is a new relationship between company and consumer,
where a purchase is premised on the brand’s willingness to live
its values, act with purpose, and if necessary, make the leap
into activism.”
Business consultants Retail Doctor Group have suggested that
the desire for businesses to focus on sustainable practices
increased during the pandemic.
CH A NGING TIDES
Sustainability
Anastasia Lloyd-Wallis
Retail Doctor Group
"Sustainability – and
sustainable practices
– have long been on
people’s minds, so this
trend is really no surprise."
Greville Ingham
BECKS
"We are looking at ways
to measure our emissions
into the air and are seeking
ways to reduce our carbon
footprint here to do our part
in preserving air quality.”
Daniel Bracken
Michael Hill International
"We are fortunate to work
with precious metals that
never tarnish or decay,
allowing us to provide an
innovative service whilst
building a more circular
economy."
Head of insights Anastasia Lloyd-Wallis says priorities changed
as consumers had time to reflect on the global supply chain's
environmental impact.
According to one study, 46 per cent of Australians reported
that their values and ‘how they look at life’ have changed
significantly since the pandemic.
“Sustainability – and sustainable practices – have long been on
people’s minds, so this trend is really no surprise,” she says.
“Increasingly concerned about the amount of packaging used,
its impact on the environment, and how we can reuse or
recycle products, shoppers are looking to change their planetsaving
behaviours, patterns, and habits.”
This approach to consumer demands is not without fault.
The Havard Business Review published a report in 2019
that identified what’s known as an ‘intention-act gap’ in
purchasing patterns.
"Indeed, forging a relationship with the next generation
of jewellery consumers is crucial to the future success
of your business. So, what is the consumer of tomorrow
looking for in a business? "
More than two-thirds (65 per cent) of respondents to one survey
said they want to purchase products from ‘purpose-driven’
brands; however, just 26 per cent confirmed they actually make
these purchases.
With that said, what if this figure improves in the future and
more consumers follow through on these supposed demands?
Where will your business be positioned if the day ever comes
that consumers ‘vote with their wallets’ in favour of jewellery
stores that have taken a clear position on the importance of
environmentalism?
One step at a time
Improved access to 3D printing services has significantly
reshaped the jewellery industry in recent years.
As an increasingly cost-friendly practice, many hoped that 3D
printing would herald a new age of environmentalism in mass
production.
The dream was that traditional mass manufacturing methods
40 | November 2023

Left: A furnace is loaded during
the casting process at Morris
and Watson. Right: Gold bullion
created by Chemgold.
would evolve with the use of CAD and 3D printing. As is often
the case, it’s a more complicated story than that; indeed, there
is no ‘silver bullet’ solution.
For example the use of CAD/CAM manufacturing has
the potential to reduce and eliminate the need for mass
manufacture in favour of producing one-off bespoke pieces in a
cost-effective and efficient way.
However, manufacturing 3D printers and materials then
creates a new industry of mass manufacture. This requires
significant energy and resources, and as a new industry
may have a large environmental impact as manufacturing
processes haven’t been developed to their full potential.
At Rapid Casting in NSW, Ben Farago oversees Australia’s
most extensive suite of 3D printers, offering services to
jewellery businesses worldwide.
Farago offers a pragmatic perspective on sustainability and
says the jewellery industry is moving in the right direction.
“We have to be realistic. Casting and refining is no different to
any other industry – everyone tries their best to minimise the
waste they produce and the energy they consume; however, at
the end of the day, if you want to produce something, there will
always be a by-product,” he tells Jeweller.
"It is also important to remember that the jewellery trade is
built on the consumption of precious metals and gemstones.
Yes, we have come a long way from gold and diamonds dug out
of the ground by children in third-world countries, but whether
we call it ethical and fair trade, there is no way to greenwash
the environmental impact of mining."
He added: “It’s the same discussion we hear with electric cars.
They might use less energy than a traditional vehicle, but what
is the environmental cost to manufacture them?"
For retailers dealing with consumers concerned about the
environmental impact of the trade, Farago highlighted an
interesting point of consideration – the sentimental value of fine
jewellery.
He said that many people purchasing fine jewellery – whether
it’s gold, silver or platinum – hope the piece will remain within
the family for many generations.
If a piece of jewellery passed down from generation to
generation over many decades – with each owner adding new
memories and emotional attachments to the piece – then
perhaps it’s a worthy exchange.
CH A NGING TIDES
Sustainability
Ben Farago
Rapid Casting
"Casting practices have
changed over time, and 3D
printing has been introduced,
but we are using many of the
same tools invented 50 to
100 years ago."
Darren Cher
Chemgold
"In our precious metal
sourcing and casting
procedures, we take
immense pride in our
conscientious practices."
Richard Edelman
Edelman
"It is a new relationship
between company and
consumer, where a
purchase is premised on the
brand’s willingness to live
its values, act with purpose,
and if necessary, make the
leap into activism."
“It might be fair to say that the jewellery trade is better
positioned than other industries because of the sentimental
value we add to an already physically valuable object," he
explains.
“It’s hard to argue that fast fashion hasn’t slowly started to
creep into the jewellery trade; however, with the introduction
and development of CAD/CAM, one of the big changes we have
seen is the opportunity for customers to create unique custom
pieces at an affordable price.
"This means more everyday people can afford to have a
generational piece of jewellery custom-made whereas 20 years
ago it would have been unaffordable."
Changing public perception
The good news is that many Australian jewellery suppliers
are proactively restructuring their practices to satisfy these
consumer demands.
For example, consider BECKS, the South Australian supplier of
precious metal products and services.
In recent years, the company has completed a review of
its production facilities in search of more environmentally
friendly options.
BECKS has adopted more energy-efficient lighting, installed
timers on equipment to prevent excess power usage during
out-of-hours operation, and began using hybrid corporate
vehicles to reduce consumption and carbon footprint.
Perhaps most significant of all, the company is using electricity
for all of its equipment to better use the state’s power network,
fueled by 70 per cent renewable sources.
"As an increasingly cost-friendly practice, many
hoped that 3D printing would herald a new
age of environmentalism in mass production."
“We consider the impact of all aspects of our manufacturing
and business operations on the environment and community
and have initiated several changes in our business practices
to reduce negative environmental impact,” managing director
Greville Ingham told Jeweller.
“BECKS is committed to continuous learning and innovation.
This is especially true in the area of sustainable manufacturing
November 2023 | 41

Casting & Refining | GREEN MANUFACTURING
Left: Close inspection of a
wedding bang at BECKS. Palloys
Right: Wax models created by
Chemgold during the casting
and refining process.
and business operations.
“We are looking at the environment our people work in where
we are burning, polishing – activities that produce emissions.
We test our air quality and ensure we are working in safe
conditions.”
There’s also been a renewed focus on the social impact of
the business, shaping policy based on three key pillars – ‘our
people, our planet, and our product’.
Ingham says that BECKS hopes to change this public perception
with its expanding range of initiatives.
“As a precious metals recycler, the heart of our business
operates as a circular economy. We have extended this thinking
beyond those core commodities with dedicated waste streams
encompassing scrap metal, printer cartridges, liquid waste,
batteries, fluorescent tubes, waste oils, paper, cardboard, and
drink cans, to list just a few,” he explains.
“By carefully managing these waste streams within our
operations, we have significantly decreased our environmental
footprint and contribution to landfill while fostering responsible
waste management within our teams.”
Going above and beyond
The reputation of the precious metals industry is also important
to the staff at Chemgold. This business has worked hand-inhand
with jewellery retailers for over 40 years.
Chemgold offers CAD/CAM, casting, refining and finishing
services, and director Darren Sher says that environmentalism
has been a priority for the company for many years.
“In recent years, Chemgold has proactively responded to
the increasing demand for eco-friendly and responsible
practices in the precious metals and fine jewellery
industries,” he tells Jeweller.
“We recognise that the reputation of the precious metal industry
is intricately linked to its impact on society and the environment.
As a result, we have introduced state-of-the-art measures to
minimise our environmental footprint.”
These measures include using advanced kilns imported from
Japan and Germany, equipped with cutting-edge exhaust
systems and afterburners. This equipment ensures that
emissions are effectively eliminated and reduces pollution.
42 | November 2023
K E Y FIGURES
Purpose-driven
businesses
64%
Of consumers willing to
purchase or boycott a
product based on social
or political issues.
53%
Of consumers that
believe it is easier
for businesses - not
governments - to
address social issues.
46%
Of Australian consumers
who say their values
changed during the
pandemic.
65%
Of consumers say
they want to purchase
'purpose-driven'
products.
78%
Of consumers say that
living a 'sustainable'
lifestlye is important to
them.
Chemgold has also adopted a steam dewaxing
process, significantly reducing environmental impact
during manufacturing.
The company has also taken a strategic approach to water
management, effectively managing consumption and waste to
mitigate environmental impact.
Sher says this commitment to sustainable operations is more
than a mere reaction to industry trends.
“We acknowledge the profound impact of our industry on
both the environment and society, compelling us to adopt a
comprehensive approach to address these concerns,” he says.
“In our precious metal sourcing and casting procedures, we
take immense pride in our conscientious practices. We provide
an unequivocal guarantee that our precious metals are sourced
from ethical, recycled, or responsible origins.
“In our casting process, we implement the latest recycling
methods available in the market, underscoring our unwavering
commitment to sustainability. We firmly oppose any activities
that perpetuate conflict, violence, or human rights abuses.”
Partnerships with retailers
Other key players in casting and refining have forged
partnerships with major retailers to showcase their
commitment to environmentalism to consumers directly.
Earlier this year, Michael Hill International – with 275 stores
in Australia, New Zealand, and Canada - launched a new gold
recycling program.
"Where will your business be positioned if the day ever
comes that consumers ‘vote with their wallets’ in favour
of jewellery stores that have taken a clear position on the
importance of environmentalism?"
The company is encouraging consumers to exchange broken,
old, and no longer worn gold jewellery pieces in return for value
on a Michael Hill gift card.
“We are fortunate to work with precious metals that never
tarnish or decay, allowing us to provide an innovative service
whilst building a more circular economy,” CEO Daniel

Left: Wedding band
manufactured by Palloys.
Casting and refining requires
extreme heat.
Bracken explains.
“How we source and manufacture our products impacts our
planet, and this program is our first major foray into jewellery
circularity and evolving the jewellery industry towards a more
sustainable and ethically responsible future.”
The program was launched in partnership with Morris and
Watson, a family-owned precious metal refiner and casting
house operating for nearly 100 years.
Head of sustainability, Kerrie Hockless, reported that the
company recycled more than $200,000 of gold between April
and July.
“We know through research that for every one gram of pure
gold we can push back into recycling engineered products
saves around three tonnes of mining ore and 16 kilos of carbon
emissions,” she told Ragtrader.
Morris and Watson has previously described its precious
metals recycling program as its ‘edge’ in the market, with finetuned
refining designed with environmental impact in mind.
For example, melted and burnt exhaust is evacuated through
afterburners and state-of-the-art smoke and particulate
scrubbing systems. The refinery also uses a custom-designed
air extraction system with an automatic pH dosing system
monitored and recorded daily.
The company also has a comprehensive system of rainwater
usage via roof catchment and tank storage used for melt
machine cooling and recycling.
Best is yet to come
Perhaps the most pleasing factor in this matter is that
Australia’s casting and refining specialists acknowledge that
while the progress has been positive, much work remains to
be done.
Both Chemgold and Morris and Watson are members of the
Responsible Jewellery Council, and Sher said that provided a
valuable framework to structure these initiatives.
“Our membership is a testament to our unwavering
commitment to upholding the highest standards of quality and
ethical conduct. This membership ensures our strict adherence
to the RJC's Code of Practices, encompassing business ethics,
human rights, social impact, and environmental performance,”
he explains.
K E Y FIGURES
Casting & Refining
3200BC
Earliest evidence of
casting processes
discover by
anthropologists.
$US46B
Expected market
value of 3D printing
worldwide by 2026.
$AU23B
The contribution of
Australia's gold industry
to the economy in 2021.
92.5%
Of sterling silver which
is pure silver.
2020
Entry level 3D printers
dropped in price,
leading to a surge of
recreational users.
“As a member of the RJC, we consistently uphold the highest
standards in our industry. These initiatives are an integral
component of our core values and set us apart as a responsible
and sustainable leader in the precious metals and fine
jewellery industry.”
At BECKS, Ingham says that his company has some significant
plans concerning environmental strategy to work towards in
the immediate future.
“We have begun an exciting journey to strategise our net zero
pathway with our ultimate goal to become a carbon-neutral
business before 2030,” he says.
“As part of this major initiative, we are not only addressing our
carbon emission within our direct operations but also across
our entire value chain. By addressing Scope 3 emissions, we
aim to minimise the environmental impact of our business
activities, further contributing to a cleaner, healthier planet.”
Casting and refining have a rich history, with historians
suggesting that South American societies such as the Incas
and Mayans used wax carving to create jewellery thousands
of years ago.
Farago says this attachment to tradition has proven to be
a double-edged sword regarding an increasing desire for
‘sustainable’ practices.
The desire to stick with ‘tried and tested’ methods discourages
companies from exploring newly developed and more
environmentally friendly techniques.
On the other hand, traditional methods tend to use less energy
because they were designed when mass manufacturing was
less advanced and energy-dependent.
“Jewellery is a very ‘old’ trade, and it can be difficult to find
room for development,” he explains.
“Casting practices have changed over time, and 3D printing has
been introduced, but we are using many of the same processes
invented 50 to 100 years ago. We are also manufacturing the
same products we always have, so we just have to do it better."
If the trend of ‘environmentally conscious’ consumers
continues to increase, it’s important that your business can
ease any concerns potential customers may have confidently.
Fortunately, many of Australia’s precious metals suppliers are
moving in the same direction.
November 2023 | 43

THE BUSINESS OF BRANDS
Daniel Wellington
Full
Disclosure:
DANIEL WELLINGTON'S RETAIL REBOUND
Daniel Wellington has significant plans for the Australian
market over the next two years. SAMUEL ORD reflects
on the brand's history and details the road ahead.
D
aniel Wellington will enter next year with a renewed focus
on the Australian market after putting pen to paper on a
distribution partnership with Duraflex Group Australia.
To say that the past 13 years have been a rollercoaster ride for the proudly
unassuming Swedish watch brand is an understatement.
In 2006, founder Filip Tysander was backpacking in Australia and
encountered a fellow traveller named Daniel Wellington. A wristwatch
worn by the Brit caught the eye of Tysander – it was a Rolex Submariner
secured by a sleek black-and-grey nylon band.
When he finally returned to his hometown of Uppsala in Sweden,
Tysander was obsessed with launching his watch company. Action
was finally taken in 2011 when he founded the company with an initial
investment of approximately $AU30,000.
Fashion is a fiercely competitive market – capital investment and
advertising costs are significant, rivals and imitators frequently haunt
successful brands, and consumers are often fickle.
Tysander was unphased by all of these challenges. By 2014, Daniel
Wellington was named Europe’s fastest expanding company, with more
than one million units sold and revenue in excess of $US70 million.
In the media, critics have often potted Daniel Wellington for its aesthetics.
An article published in Bloomberg once described the watches as
‘instantly recognisable, and so generic they verge on invisible.’
What these critics could not overlook was the most critical factor –
Daniel Wellington was popular. The following year, revenue of more
than $US220 million was realised.
On an unexpectedly warm spring morning in Melbourne, global offline
director Joakim Levin reflects on this early success and attributes it to
three key factors.
“We were one of the first watch brands to embrace influencer marketing,
and in the early days, we put every single penny we had into marketing
and advertising,” he tells Jeweller.
“Marketing via influencers was a crucial point of difference. At the
same time, we secured partnerships with strong distributors – first in
Scandinavia, then in Europe, and then the rest of the world.
“Then there’s the product itself – a sleek and minimalistic design that the
market was crying out for. It was originally targeted at students specifically.”

THE BUSINESS OF BRANDS | Daniel Wellington
2011
Founding year of
Daniel Wellington
IN NUMBERS
Deep Dive
50
Number of countries
Daniel Wellington
products are sold.
2014
The year
Daniel Wellington first
sold more than one
million units
5 Million
Wellington's
Instagram following
as at 2023.
The latest releases from Daniel Wellington. The brand has
plans to expand further into jewellery in 2024.
At the time, Australian consumers were still enamoured with
branded jewellery – the success of Pandora specifically had
blazed a trail that many successfully pursued.
Duraflex Group Australia managing director Phil Edwards
says that Daniel Wellington effectively ‘covered all the bases’
when it comes to commercial success.
“It was a quality product supported with strong marketing,
which entered the market at the perfect time. That’s always a
recipe for success,” he explains.
“At the time, the Australian market was riding the wave of
many successful branded products – think of Pandora and
Thomas SABO, as examples – and consumers were looking
for similar products at a similar price point.”
Lessons learned the hard way
As the brand continued to expand, Daniel Wellington
attempted to move to a vertically integrated model, favouring
brand-only stores over partnerships with distributors.
At the same time, the COVID pandemic began. Public
gathering was prohibited in markets worldwide, and the roller
doors slammed shut on brick-and-mortar store sales.
West End Collection previously distributed Daniel Wellington
in Australia; however, that partnership was terminated.
The New Zealand subsidiary of Daniel Wellington was
liquidated in May 2020 – less than two years after it was
incorporated.
Johan Liberg, global sales manager, says that revenue
for Daniel Wellington declined during this period and that
the pandemic handed a young brand – which had become
a household name worldwide within a few short years –
many lessons learned the hard way.
“We are happy to admit that our timing was wrong.
Operating stores during a global pandemic quickly
became an expensive proposition,” he jokes.
“We acknowledge that we underestimated the importance
of having a strong partnership with a local distributor that
understands the market intricately. It doesn’t matter if it’s
Australia, Italy, or Sweden; you need the insight of a powerful
local player.
THE
FULL DISCLOSURE
Joakim Levin
DANIEL WELLINGTON
"We were one of the first
watch brands to embrace
influencer marketing, and in
the early days, we put every
single penny we had into
marketing and advertising."
Johan Liberg
DANIEL WELLINGTON
"It doesn’t matter if it’s
Australia, Italy, or Sweden; you
need the insight of a powerful
local player. It was a good
lesson for us to learn."
Phil Edwards
DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA
"It was a quality product
supported with strong marketing,
which entered the market at
the perfect time. That’s always a
recipe for success."
“It was a good lesson for us to learn.”
With that said, Edwards says there is still a clear gap in the
Australian market for Daniel Wellington products.
“After the success of the brands I mentioned earlier, there
was a feeling among retailers that they had ‘overbranded’
themselves. Stores moved away from branded jewellery –
they wanted their store to feel unique and represent them,”
he explains.
“That means with the few brands that they do stock, they
are very selective. The good news is that we are finding that
retailers are very enthusiastic to have Daniel Wellington
back on their shelves.”
Currently, Daniel Wellington is performing exceptionally well
in department stores and mini-majors; however, distribution
via independent retailers is limited. This will be DGA’s focus.
The next chapter?
From the highs of rapid global popularity to the lows of the
pandemic, Daniel Wellington has seen it all in a little more
than a decade. Now, the brand plans to expand further into
the jewellery market.
“Our main focus for the next two years is expansion into
jewellery. Based on macro trends and examining the
performance of our products, we can see that jewellery
is an opportunity for expansion for us, and we want to
capitalise on the opportunity,” Liberg says.
“It’s something that we’ve been working on for a long time.
We launched our first line of jewellery products in 2016 to
test the waters, and the results were pleasing.”
Australian consumer confidence remains weak, and
household budgets have tightened; however, the pandemic
taught us that people tend to treat themselves with luxury
indulgences when times are tough.
In business, there are no secret recipes for success. With
that said, whether it be with watches or jewellery, Daniel
Wellington’s inclination to offer a quality product at an
affordable price might just open the door for retailers to meet
these new consumer demands.
November 2023 | 45

So much more
than just a fair.
17–19 AUGUST, 2024
ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour
jewelleryfair.com.au
Proudly supported by
Organised by

FEATURE
Digital Tool Belt
Tool Belt
Today’s problems are tomorrow’s afterthoughts.
SAMUEL ORD reviews several digital tools designed
to reduce the headaches jewellery retailers face.

Digital Tool Belt | TECH FEATURE
W
hile adverse economic conditions may
have presented jewellery retailers with many
challenges this year, in reality, there’s never
been a better time to be in business.
That might seem like an outrageous suggestion; however, it’s
accurate. Indeed, the sky is the limit for retailers because of an
ever-expanding arsenal of digital tools designed to take your
business to the next level.
In the not-so-distant past, jewellers faced many impositions
without the support of the internet.
Manufacturing tools were expensive and in short demand, and
because the jewellery trade is so family-orientated, it wasn’t
uncommon for hammers, saws, and clamps to be passed
from one generation to the next.
It was also difficult to ‘get the word out’ about your business
and products.
These same jewellers relied heavily on word-of-mouth
marketing and the loyalty of local customers before the
invention of print, radio, television, and online marketing.
What about the organisation and administration of a business?
Stock and sales were all documented and monitored with
pen and paper – if at all – until the invention of computerised
management programs.
As the world became increasingly globalised and the influence
of the internet increased, more effective solutions to the daily
challenges faced by jewellers became available.
The good news is that this access to the ‘problem solvers’ of
the jewellery trade has only increased recently.
Indeed, it’s showing no signs of slowing down and as US
founding father Benjamin Franklin once said: “The best
investment is in the tools of one’s own trade.”
Profit in the fine print
Whether it be sales documentation or inventory management,
retailers collect a significant paper trail daily.
Within this data is an opportunity to maximise the effectiveness
of a business with thorough and dedicated analysis; however,
because owners and managers are so often time-poor, it can
be difficult to capitalise.
Whether it be using the information to define strategies for
improved sales in the future or simply reducing the costs
associated with carrying slow-moving stock – the answer is
A BRIEF TIMELINE
Artifical Intelligence
1950
Written by Alan Turing,
‘Can Machines Think’ is
published.
1955
The first AI program
- Logic Theorists - is
invented.
1980
First National
Conference of the
American Association
for AI held in the US.
1997
The Deep Blue
computer defeats Gary
Kasparov in chess.
2022
ChatGPT becomes
a household name
worldwide.
usually buried in a pile of paperwork or a cluttered desktop.
Said another way, sales analysis is crucial to success; however,
it’s time-consuming. Fortunately, there are businesses with a
practical digital solution to this dilemma.
An example is Retail Edge Consultants, a management
consulting company that sourced impactful jewellery software
due to demand from retailers dissatisfied with their existing
practices.
Retail Edge offers everything from electronic invoicing
to trends and sales analysis, with the aim of taking the
guesswork out of planning for the future.
“As the world became increasingly globalised
and the influence of the internet increased, more
effective solutions to the daily challenges faced by
jewellers became available.”
Within the past year, the company introduced Edge Pulse – a
mobile application that allows business owners to access all
the vital information from devices away from the store.
General manager Leon Van Megan explains that it’s a threestep
process.
Acquisition: Collecting the data via The Edge Point of Sale
system. The system captures data from tickets scanned at
POS or when the staff manually enters data.
Information: Data is transformed into practical information
when the data is analysed and collated into reports.
The functionality in Edge Pulse has been refined to provide
item-level detail for pricing, stock, units sold, sales, average
sale, margins, discounting, goal setting, sales associate
performance and much more.
Action: Information itself only becomes useful when converted
into action. Van Megen says that the results are precise – and
claims that those who use the reports and convert that data
and advice into action are more successful.
“The ability to segment data and report by department,
supplier, sales associate, and many other metrics is where the
big benefits are,” he says.
“For example, assessing margin performance by line,
department, and supplier means an owner knows what is
48 | November 2023

OUR WEBSITE HAS HAD AN UPDATE
100’s of amazing designs are now available
at the click of a button for overnight delivery!
NEW & IMPROVED
LIVE STOCK FEATURE

Digital Tool Belt | TECH FEATURE
working and what is not. If, for example, the diamond ring
category has seen sales drop, a jeweller might adjust their
purchasing and change the sales focus to allow this.”
He added: “The best owners ‘live’ in their reports and make
informed decisions. Unfortunately, most owners don’t, usually
because they are short of time.”
The application has impressive mobile functionality, real-time
statistics and all the data you might need while away from the
store.
Areas of key focus for Retail Edge are improved financials,
stock management, business expansion strategy, and staff
performance, as well as retention advice.
“Accurate data input and collection is a critical starting point
for informed decision making,” Van Megen continues.
“The application was built specifically for the jewellery
industry; the system lets store owners get granular with their
data.”
Elevate your artwork
Jewellery design can be a painstaking process; however, using
digital programs takes less time and energy than ever.
Many digital jewellery design services are available online;
however, not all computer-assisted design (CAD) programs
are created equal.
Among them is LST Group’s 3Design, designed to emphasise
the importance of time for jewellers.
It’s a program that has been developed and refined over the
past two decades, and 3D product manager Chris Hill told
Jeweller this process had led to a product that is easy and
intuitive to use, even for those unfamiliar with CAD.
“There’s never been a more opportune moment to make
a strategic investment in both you and your business by
embracing the power of software,” he says.
“It’s a chance to supercharge your production capabilities and
distinguish yourself from the competition.”
Next year, LST Group plans to launch 3Design V12, introducing
various new features that will ‘breathe life’ into designs.
EXPERTS SAY
Tech Heads
JEFF DUNTEMANN
Author
“A good tool improves the
way you work. A great tool
improves the way you think.”
CHERYL ROBICHAUX
Stuller
“In today’s ever-changing
digital landscape, businesses
across all industries are
adapting and evolving
to meet the increasing
demands of online shoppers.”
LEON VAN MEGEN
Retail Edge Consultants
“The ability to segment data and
report by department, supplier,
sales associate, and many
other metrics is where the big
benefits are.”
“Unlike traditional CAD programs that demand significant
time and effort to master, our program accelerates your
journey from novice to expert with its unparalleled ease of
use,” Hill explains.
“The user-friendly platform empowers even the most
seasoned jewellery designers to seamlessly transition from
conceptual sketches to exquisite, finished models, all with a
significantly reduced turnaround time.
“With 3Design, you can elevate your jewellery design process
and effortlessly create your masterpieces.”
Imagination brought to life
CAD/CAM and 3D printing services have transformed the
jewellery manufacturing process.
The good news is the Australian trade is spoiled for choice
when it comes to casting and refining services -and these
suppliers often use technology to gain an additional
advantage.
Among those offering their services is Rapid Casting, based in
Alexandria, NSW. What makes this company stand out from
its competitors is cloud services, such as the Online CAD
Design Portal.
The process is simple – jewellers upload a PDF, sketch, photo,
or logo for a streamlined and efficient CAD design service.
Production manager Ben Farago says that while the system
was launched in 2009, it has only become more refined and
tailored to the users’ needs over time.
“We did it all in-house – handling all of the programming and
development – and that means it’s perfectly fine-tuned for
our business and, more importantly, our customers,” he tells
Jeweller.
“These days, when people create software, it’s often done
overseas or outsourced, and it can be difficult to get specific
ideas across to developers. When we encounter a problem, it’s
resolved immediately. We are sitting pretty with our system.”
The portal also offers immediate correspondence regarding
the design stored in an online account so that jewellers
receive up-to-date progress on a project – improving the
ability to plan ahead of time.
50 | November 2023

Digital Tool Belt| TECH FEATURE
QUICK GUIDE TO
Artificial Intelligence
After making a dramatic entrance to mainstream
popularity late last year, artificial intelligence has
taken the retail sector by storm, leaving many
scrambling to keep up.
Put simply, artificial intelligence (AI) leverages
computers and machines to mimic the problemsolving
and decision-making functions of the
human mind.
‘ChatGPT’ is an AI-powered language model
developed by OpenAI, which became a household
name in 2022 as a rapidly expanding number of users
found unique and creative ways to utilise the program.
Among those users were a number of retail
businesses that utilised the program for everything
from virtual shopping assistant services and
automated customer service to writing copy for
products.
The sweeping popularity of this emerging AI program
generated discussion about the impact of similar
programs on the global economy.
According to research from Goldman Sachs, as tools
using natural language processing infiltrate their
way into businesses, they could drive a $US7 trillion
increase in global GDP and improve productivity by
1.5 per cent over the next 10 years.
Where can Artifical Intelligence help retailers?
4 Automated inventory management
4 CRM - Customer Relation Management
4 Customised design programs
4 E-commerce
4 Email marketing automation
4 Retail store staff management
4 Sales analysis
4 Trends forecasting
4 Diamond grading software
4 Guided product discovery for customers
4 Automated copywriting for products
It all comes down to decision making
When considering the benefits AI services may have
for your business, it’s important to understand that
offering faster and improved decision-making is
central to each program.
The AI of today might be impressive; however, it isn’t
magic. These programs don’t have the ability to make
imaginative or creative decisions.
It’s in the analysis of data that AI discovers patterns
and, in varying ways, is able to help businesses
improve their operations.
With that said, where is your business most likely to
benefit from the implementation of AI programs?
Both 2D and 3D models of the jeweller’s design are available
for inspection before final approval.
With the 3D model, retailers can rotate the piece and zoom in
and out to ensure the design is correct.
“It’s all about ease of access for the customers,” Farago says.
“When we first began the project, we studied logistics
companies where everything is tracked to see what we could
learn. Many jewellers are still used to doing everything with
little yellow envelopes in pigeon holes.
“We used logistics as our motivation for making it work
quickly and efficiently. Our customers log into their account
whenever they need to, and it tells them exactly where the
job is.”
Turn the clock back
One of the most common complaints among jewellers is a
lack of time while juggling various responsibilities.
To address this issue, it’s essential to ‘streamline’ tasks
within a single system where possible. An avenue for this is a
customer relationship management (CRM) system.
Alox CRM was founded by Marion van der Krogt and is
designed for independent jewellery business owners.
Retailers can use Alox CRM to track customer
communications across social media, live chat, email and
SMS, compiling all relevant information and communication
history in a customer profile.
The program also allows you to automate and personalise
your email marketing campaigns, so you don’t have to spend
hours manually creating and sending emails.
Templates, suggested content and pre-built workflows are
all offered to help jewellers attract more customers and
increase repeat sales by working smarter, not harder.
“Our aim is to help jewellers save time by automating many
of their marketing, sales, and customer service tasks,” van
der Krogt reveals.
“Our program frees up jewellers to focus on tasks they like
doing best, working on the business or spending the time
doing something else entirely.”
CHRIS HILL
LST Group
“There’s never been a
more opportune moment
to make a strategic
investment in both you and
your business by embracing
the power of software”
MARION VAN DER KROGT
Alox CRM
“Our program frees up
jewellers to focus on
tasks they like doing best,
working on the business or
spending the time doing
something else entirely.”
BEN FARAGO
Rapid Casting
“We used logistics as our
motivation for making it
work quickly and efficiently.
Our customers log into their
account whenever they need
to, and it tells them exactly
where the job is.”
The program is a ‘turnkey’ solution, meaning that it is a
complete CRM system that includes everything jewellers
need to get started.
“Other providers give you the tools and wish you the best,
whereas we offer the complete process and set-up. The
program is also cloud-based, so jewellers and their staff can
access it from anywhere with an internet connection,” she
continues.
“On top of that, Alox CRM provides a variety of resources to
ensure jewellers continue to successfully leverage the system
in their business, including a comprehensive knowledge
base, video tutorials, monthly masterclasses and a private
24/7 support channel.”
Like many other digital tools mentioned in this story, Alox
CRM is consistently updated and refined. Next year, the
company plans to expand the features and functionality
tailored to jewellers’ needs.
This includes introducing a new ‘voting tool’ to collect
users’ requests, upvotes, and feedback to inform our future
development.
There will also be a new mobile app that makes it even easier
for users to access the system when away from their store.
Everything under the sun
There’s a tendency among retailers to acknowledge the
importance of the internet while failing to embrace the
extensive range of opportunities it presents entirely.
Most jewellery businesses have a website, and some offer an
e-commerce alternative to shopping online. That’s usually
where the story ends for most retailers!
With that said, there’s so much more to be offered online if
you’re willing to think outside the box.
An example of one business that has shown itself to be
willing to experiment in this regard is Stuller, which offers an
expansive range of products and services for jewellers.
There’s everything from trend reports to diamond cutting,
CAD/CAM services, imprinting, and customisation programs
to guide the manufacturing of bespoke jewellery and analysis
of the latest trends.
November 2023 | 51

Digital Tool Belt | TECH FEATURE
Stuller also offers an expansive library of resources and training
programs online, elevating the business from a supplier to a
‘one-stop shop’ for retailers with a problem that needs solving.
“In today’s ever-changing digital landscape, businesses across
all industries are adapting and evolving to meet the increasing
demands of online shoppers,” writes Stuller’s Cheryl Robichaux.
It once would’ve seemed impossible for a simple business to
offer so many services; however, Stuller has shown that using the
cloud and digital tools it’s achievable.
With that said, it’s worth asking the question – are there any ways
that your business could expand its offering using the cloud?
Stuller isn’t the only business hoping to offer the solution to
every problem a retailer may face.
Another example of a jewellery business willing to capitalise
on the cloud’s opportunities is DSM Pacific, a diamond and
jewellery wholesaler.
Offering services to businesses of all sizes, ‘DSM
Technologies’ provides tools to handle many issues – whether
it be website development, social media marketing, inventory
management, or a customised back office system for
administrative support.
The company also offers jewellery sketching, CAD design,
and jewellery image editing.
It’s a similar story for Hong Kong-based Myndar, which
specialises in the development of ‘Internet of Things’ (IoT)
solutions.
The company offers a range of innovative tools designed for
both retail and distribution companies that aim to bring them
increased profitability and improved security.
The cloud is utilised with Myndscape, a network that enables
ongoing real-time data tracking and analysis of logistics and
retail operations.
The platform is designed to improve understanding and increase
efficiency across every facet of a business.
There’s also Myndquest - offering retailers comprehensive
customer data from a variety of sources.
This data provides insightful prediction, identifying customers
Tools are
inanimate objects.
Making the
most of the
opportunities
these types of
services afford
is up to you.
As US science
fiction writer Jeff
Duntemann once
said: “A good tool
improves the way
you work. A great
tool improves the
way you think.”
who are likely to make a purchase, their estimated amount of
spending, their most desired products, timing of purchases, and
much more.
MyndQUEST applies algorithms and artificial intelligence to
interpret and analyse customers, products and market data.
See you in the cloud
The sky is the limit for retailers with increasing access to tools
that can improve the effectiveness of their business.
That’s not to say there aren’t potentially negative factors to be
mindful of. Security for cloud services is one of the most common
causes for hesitancy for retailers.
In the event that there is a security breach, managing the issue is
likely out of the hands of retailers.
There’s also the threat of ‘uncontrollable’ issues, such as a
provider experiening unexpected delays or disruptions.
With that said, it’s important not to let the ‘negatives’ cloud your
assessment of the positives these tools offer.
Automatic updates might be disruptive at times; however, they
occur for a reason - these programs and services are constantly
improving, which is a net positive for users.
Many of the services detailed offer customisation, meaning the
tools can be tailored to suit the needs of your business.
Accessibility is vital, and these types of tools are often available
from remote smartphones and tablets.
Tools are inanimate objects. Making the most of the opportunities
these types of services afford is up to you. As US science fiction
writer Jeff Duntemann once said: “A good tool improves the way
you work. A great tool improves the way you think.”
Many retailers feel time-poor; however, making the most of the
opportunities, these digital tools present a ‘fast track’ to a more
streamlined and efficient work schedule.
It may be daunting at first, but eventually, these types of
programs become second nature, and you find yourself asking:
how did I ever run my business without them?
52 | November 2023

ALOX CRM
FOR JEWELLERS WHO WANT TO
WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER.
Alox CRM is designed to help
jewellers streamline their processes,
automate tasks, and focus on what
they love most - designing and
supporting their clients.
It is a user-friendly all-in-one
platform that allows jewellery
business owners to achieve client
growth and success while
maintaining a healthy work-life
balance.
Book a private demo of Alox CRM
today and see how it can help you
work smarter, not harder - and scale
your jewellery business at the same
time.
hello@aloxcrm.com
BOOK A DEMO
aloxcrm.com
@aloxcrm

BUSINESS
Strategy
Back to basics: Embracing the
power of digital marketing
How can your business make the most of the opportunities the internet presents?
SIMON DELL explains the fundamentals of a successful digital marketing strategy.
In today’s interconnected world, where
technology touches many aspects of our
lives, businesses are continually evolving
to adapt to the digital landscape.
Digital marketing has changed how
businesses engage with their target
audience, enabling them to reach and
connect with potential customers globally.
It’s time to look further into digital
marketing, focusing on its impact on
people, the significance of advertising in
the digital space with emerging business
trends and how it can benefit a business
in the long term.
Power of digital marketing
A simplified view of digital marketing can
encompass a vast array of strategies and
techniques aimed at promoting products
or services using digital channels such as
websites, social media platforms, search
engines, email marketing, and more.
One of the most significant advantages of
digital marketing is its ability to reach a
highly targeted audience. However, unlike
many traditional marketing methods, such
as television or print advertising, digital
marketing allows businesses to precisely
target their ideal customers based on
various demographic, psychographic, and
behavioural factors.
When businesses are looking at the most
effective ways to reach their targeted
audience, there are many techniques to
choose from. These include search engine
marketing (SEO), social media, paid ads,
and email marketing.
These techniques are great because
they can help a business define its target
audience using specific parameters such
as age, gender, location, interests, and
online behaviour.
This level of fine-tuning and targeting
ensures that a business’s marketing efforts
are directed towards the individuals likely to
be interested in its products or services, and
marketing time and budget are not spent on
those not interested.
To give a brief example of how this can work,
let’s look at a fitness apparel brand. They
can use digital marketing to target healthconscious
individuals between the ages of
25 and 35 who reside in urban areas and
have shown an interest in fitness-related
content online.
By tailoring the marketing messages
and content to this specific audience,
the brand can effectively communicate
the value and benefits of their products,
therefore resulting in higher engagement,
conversions, and, more importantly, a return
on investment.
Now, you might be thinking that all this
targeting is excellent; however, how can we
gain insight into all the marketing efforts
being performed? This is where we use
analytics to help businesses refine their
targeting strategies further.
As with most analytical reporting, it can be
a little overwhelming and time-consuming,
so this is where businesses can gain the
In the digital
age, there is
undoubtedly
a place for
businesses to
connect with
their audience
on a deeper
level.
services of a digital marketing strategist
to help them understand what data points
mean the most to their business.
As seasoned professionals in their field,
marketing strategists can analyse data
on customer behaviour, preferences,
and interactions to gain a deeper
understanding of the target audience.
This data-driven approach allows
businesses and fractional CMOs to
optimise their marketing campaigns
continuously, ensuring they reach the right
people at the right time.
Placing people at the centre
In the digital age, there is undoubtedly a
place for businesses to connect with their
audience on a deeper level.
And with any successful marketing
campaign, these connections are built
on the foundation of creating meaningful
relationships with their customers and
are purposely designed with long-term
expansion in mind.
By using a personalised marketing
strategy for a business, such as
segmenting the audience, tailoring
content to specific demographics, and
engaging in two-way communication,
these businesses can foster trust,
loyalty, and brand advocacy among their
target audience.
By doing so, businesses can understand
customers' needs, preferences, and pain
points and allow them to deliver
54 | November 2023

elevant content that offers a seamless and
enjoyable customer experience.
Advertising in the digital space
Advertising in the digital landscape
presents many opportunities for
businesses to showcase their products or
services to a broader audience. They can
now focus on specific demographics and
connect with potential customers more
effectively by reaching them at the optimal
moment and location.
So, where do you start? This is where we
look at platforms like Google Ads, social
media advertising, and even influencer
marketing, as this has emerged as an
effective marketing channel to amplify
brand awareness, drive traffic to websites,
and generate leads.
However, as with all advertising, your
audience can inadvertently become
immune to your message, as we are
bombarded daily with advertising from all
directions. So, with that said, it is crucial
to strike a balance between promotional
content and providing value to the audience.
Some of the ways a business can
provide value are in the form of engaging
storytelling, informative content, and
interactive campaigns, as these can
enhance customer engagement and
improve overall campaign effectiveness.
Trends in digital marketing
Trends come and go; however, as the digital
marketing landscape is an ever-evolving
field, with technologies continuously
shaping the way businesses engage with
their audience, there are some noteworthy
trends to keep an eye on:
• Video marketing: The popularity of video
content continues to increase, making it a
powerful tool for digital marketers.
Businesses can leverage platforms such
as YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram Reels to
capture attention, disperse their compelling
stories, and deliver engaging content to
their audience.
• Voice search optimisation: With the rise
of virtual assistants like Siri, Alexa, and
Google Assistant, businesses can optimise
content for voice search.
Marketers can adapt their SEO strategies
to accommodate voice queries and provide
conversational answers.
• Influencer Marketing: Collaborating
with influencers who have a strong online
presence and engaged following has
become a significant trend.
When certain businesses partner with
influencers, they can tap into their reach
and credibility to amplify brand awareness
and influence purchasing decisions.
These are all trends that, if implemented
effectively, can create a better
understanding of your audience that your
marketing team or freelance marketing
consultant can further tap into.
Need help figuring out where to begin?
Examine other businesses that have
partnered with influences and evaluate
their approach. Would the same strategy
work for your business? It never hurts to
ask other business owners how they’ve
found the strategy.
Final thoughts
The digital landscape offers an excellent
opportunity for businesses to flourish,
TRENDS
IN DIGITAL
MARKETING
Video
marketing
Businesses
can leverage
platforms such as
YouTube, TikTok,
and Instagram
Reels to capture
new customers.
Voice search
optimisation
With more and
more customers
using virtual
assistants,
voice search
optimisation is
an increasingly
important avenue
for connecting
with customers.
Influencer
marketing
An increasing
number of
businesses
collaborate with
influencers with
a strong online
presence.
regardless of where they stand in their
marketing journey.
From mastering social media and SEO to
crafting a captivating professional website,
the key lies in embracing the true potential
of digital marketing and how a business can
adapt it to amplify its brand and message.
With that said, the journey doesn’t end
there. Whether you are a novice or a
seasoned professional, remember that the
digital world is limitless, and the potential
to thrive has no bounds.
To stand out among the competition,
businesses should remain vigilant and
embrace emerging trends.
It’s also essential to monitor the results
of your digital marketing strategy. Before
implementing a new tool or tactic, define
which metrics you can measure to gauge
its impact.
It’s pointless to implement a strategy if you
aren’t going to finish with tangible evidence
as to whether or not it was successful –
that’s a recipe for an out-of-control budget.
Furthermore, if you are unaware of which
strategies succeed and which fail, how will
you optimise your approach in the future?
Failing to plan is planning to fail, after all!
Adaptability and foresight are the
cornerstones of staying ahead with
digital marketing.
SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO
of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that
provides marketing staff on demand.
He specialises in digital marketing
and brand management.
Visit: cemoh.comm
November 2023 | 55

BUSINESS
Selling
‘It’s out of our control’ is not a good enough excuse!
Your business doesn’t always need to go ‘above and beyond’ to succeed.
SHEP HYKEN discusses managing customer expectations.
At a recent customer service
presentation, the speaker who
preceded me said that we must
do better than simply meeting our
customers’ expectations, and he
shared some stories of genuinely
amazing service experiences.
When it was my turn to speak, I didn’t
want to contradict him, but I needed
the audience to understand that it is
impossible to go above and beyond with
customers at every interaction.
Sometimes, meeting expectations is a
perfect experience. I talk about ‘managing
the moment’ in my customer service
keynote speeches.
The idea comes from Volvo CEO Jan
Carlson. Customers' interaction with
you or your business allows you to form
an impression. Understanding this idea
is a start to developing and maintaining
your customer service strategy.
You must manage expectations, and if
you are even the tiniest bit above average
in doing what customers expect, your
customers will love you, give you high
ratings, and refer you to their friends.
The key to being successful with this
idea is to be consistent. You want
customers to say things like, “they are
always knowledgeable,” or “they are
always so helpful.” The word always
followed by something positive, typically
an expectation, is what you’re going for
in reviews.
So, back to the idea of just meeting
expectations. Some people confuse
expectations with hope. Here’s what I mean
by this. If I call someone for help and leave
a message, I expect them to call me back,
and I hope they will return the call sooner
rather than later.
Let’s say I’m called back within an hour. I’m
pleasantly surprised because the person
met my expectation of the callback and did
it in the timeframe I hoped they would –
maybe even a little sooner.
Most customers won’t analyse the
experience this way, but it is precisely
what they want – or hope for. They will,
however, notice that the call was returned
quickly and may say, “thanks for calling
me back so quickly.”
The returned call was expected. The
comment about ‘quickly’ indicates
their expectations were met or slightly
exceeded. And if you do that every time,
the customer will use the always when
they talk about you and describe the
experience by saying, “They always call
me back quickly.”
Let’s flip this around. Most customers
hope for a great experience, but not
necessarily an over-the-top or aboveand-beyond
experience.
Unfortunately, they don't have high
expectations based on their typical
experience with service laggards. So,
whenever you meet or just ever so slightly
exceed what your customers hope for,
you’ve created a positive experience that
gets them to say, “I’ll be back!”
It’s out of our control!
I was recently in Las Vegas for a major
convention. I stayed at a very nice
hotel, and each night, I tried to fall
and stay asleep.
I emphasise the word tried because,
unfortunately, there was non-stop,
24-hour-a-day road construction outside
the hotel as the city of Las Vegas is
preparing for the Formula One race
later this year. All night, there was
jackhammering and bulldozing on the
streets where the cars will be racing.
Upon checkout, I was asked, “How was
your stay?”
I believe you
must manage
expectations,
and if you
are even the
tiniest bit
above average
in doing what
customers
expect, your
customers
will love you,
give you high
ratings, and
refer you to
their colleagues
and friends.
I responded, “I love this hotel. It’s
too bad about all that noise from the
road construction.” The front desk employee
practically cut me off and curtly stated, “It’s
out of our control.”
Of course, I knew it wasn’t the hotel’s fault.
I didn’t blame them, but she quickly pointed
that out anyway. I can only imagine how
many similar complaints she has heard
from numerous guests over the past few
weeks and will hear from many more until
the project is over. She had become annoyed
by hearing the same complaint repeatedly
and somehow lost sympathy for her guests.
So, how do you communicate something
that’s “out of your control?” Here are a few
ideas using the hotel as an example:
• Respond with empathy: Respond to
every comment about it with sympathy and
empathy. Act as though you care.
• Apologise: It may not have been your fault,
but that doesn’t mean you can’t say, “I’m sorry
this happened,” which is how I ended the
empathy statement above.
• Be proactive: If enough customers are
complaining about something entirely out of
your control and you know the problem will
continue, proactively inform them.
• Create a solution: This may or may not be
possible. In this example, the hotel could offer
free earplugs. While it’s not their fault and is
out of their control, they could show a sign of
effort to manage the problem, even if it isn’t
the perfect solution.
A problem may be out of your control. That’s
okay! Using “it’s out of my control” as an
excuse is not okay.
Instead, see it as an opportunity to show
empathy and care for your customers. It’s
the words you use and the way you tell
them that counts.
SHEP HYKEN is a speaker and New
York Times and Wall Street Journal
best-selling author who works with
companies to build loyal relationships
with customers and employees.
Visit: hyken.com
56 | November 2023

BUSINESS
Management
Lessons learned as the COVID high tide retreats
What lessons did we learn from the pandemic?
MALCOLM SCRYMGEOUR reviews the current climate for Australian jewellery retailers.
Cable Beach in Western Australia was
named after the telegraph cable that
connected Broome and Java in 1889.
It's well known for its low cliffs of red ochre
that rise behind a very flat and wide beach.
It was on this beach, on a warm Sunday in
September 2016, that Bindi Lee Porth was
happily collecting shells.
While hundreds of tourists watched the
sun setting over the Indian Ocean, Porth
fossicked around for shells. “I went to put
my foot down, and the best way that I could
describe it is that I felt a very strong energy,”
she later said to ABC Radio.
As Porth lifted her foot, she could see a hole.
She brushed the sand away and revealed
what, at first glance, appeared to be the
impression of a large bird’s foot. It was, in
fact, a dinosaur footprint estimated to be 130
million years old and is thought to have been
created by a theropod.
These prints are still visible in the rocks at
low tide. At high tide, you’d never know that
the sea was hiding 130-million-year-old
footprints. For many jewellers, the almost
two-year COVID-19 high tide has hidden a
myriad of ills. However, confronting these
issues is increasingly important as the high
tide recedes.
Aged stock is an issue for many retailers. As
sales generally settle at what appears to be a
lower level, buying ‘mistakes’ are becoming
apparent. An over-abundance of aged stock
means constrained cash flows, which must
be addressed.
The industry has also experienced employee
shortages, staff disruptions, and, in some
cases, increasing competition from online
competitors, higher inflation, and increased
consumer uncertainty.
The most alarming factor is reducing
customer counts; aged stock is partly
responsible for that.
It should go without saying that fewer
customers isn’t good - it means that your
business needs to sell more at a higher
margin to fewer people.
Jewellers become more reliant on a smaller
group of customers. While you could argue
it’s easier to market to these people, it is
also frightening because if any of them
stops shopping with your business, it
creates an ever-larger income gap.
It’s a dangerous scenario, and I’m sure
you’d agree that having fewer customers
isn’t recognised as being a great
business strategy.
The obvious response is to ‘hit the
streets’ and get more customers. That’s
easy to say; however, when is business
ever that simple?
It should be noted that the alternative to
getting more customers is to embrace the
ever-popular ‘hope’ strategy, also known
as the ‘do nothing’ strategy! It’s low cost
and requires no effort; however, sadly
yields no result at all. Frustratingly, this
remains a widely adopted strategy.
To expand your customer base, you need
to understand what these hypothetical
customers desire. Retail Edge’s data tells
us what your customers want from their
jeweller - and that is manufacturing, remanufacturing,
custom and repairs.
We know this because those areas are
increasing. From a business perspective,
these areas have strong margins, stock
investment is generally low, and the stock
turn is excellent.
This focus doesn’t mean forgetting
everything else by any means! Speaking
to several jewellers at the International
Jewellery Fair in Sydney in August
revealed that diamond rings - specifically
engagement rings - are selling well.
We know another jeweller who is selling
The obvious
response is to
'hit the streets'
and get more
customers;
however, when
is business ever
that simple?
watches like hotcakes. The rule is simple
– give customers what they want. Don’t try
to outsmart yourself or them by providing
customers with what they don’t want.
Aging stock tells us that many jewellers
are busy presenting too many products that
customers don’t want. If your business is not
relevant, customers will go elsewhere. The
rules are simple: be relevant, acquire the
right stock, and then tell your customers.
Those retailers adopting a strategy
focused on repairs, manufacturing, remanufacturing
and custom jewellery,
augmented with whatever else is selling in
your store, are performing better.
This is particularly evident among jewellers
that adopt and use effective marketing. It
doesn’t mean this is the formula for success
for all stores because situations differ;
however, you should review and decide what
areas of your strategy need the most focus.
It’s a straightforward process - determine
what your customers want and promote
these products via marketing, websites, and
in-store communications.
Final thoughts
Some outstanding jewellery leaders regard
the current circumstances as an opportunity
to reshape and refocus their business. Some
owners didn’t get a high tide, while others did
and didn’t make the most of the opportunity.
Regardless, as the COVID high tide recedes,
ensure the new low tide doesn’t expose you
as a dinosaur. Instead, your business should
exit the aged stock and extend the categories
that are selling well.
Finally, make sure the market knows what
you have to offer via marketing. Provide
your customers with a positive, happy,
memorable in-store experience, and then,
you will experience your own rising tide.
MALCOLM SCRYMGEOUR is a business
advisor with Retail Edge Consultants,
working hand-in-hand with retailers
in pursuit of efficent practices and
improved sales.
Visit: retailedgeconsultants.com.au
November 2023 | 57

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
What does your store layout say about your business?
They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, but many of your customers will!
GEORGANNE BENDER and RICH KIZER implore you to review the layout of your store.
Designing the layout of your jewellery
store to maximise sales is one of the most
critical marketing strategies.
The price of failure is a lack of loyal
customers, declining sales and,
eventually, financial ruin. Conversely, if
your store is well-crafted, you are well on
your way to success.
How a product is displayed directly
influences the customer’s path to purchase.
When a display is well done, you’ll sell
more products; when it’s poorly displayed,
even the best jewellery can sit unloved and
gather dust. Fortunately, there are plenty
of strategies, tactics, tips and techniques
to help you encourage customers to come
closer and interact with the merchandise.
Consider the following strategies and
assess whether they can take your store to
the next level.
Create windows that stop traffic
It’s a fact that pre-occupied shoppers will
spend approximately eight seconds looking
at store windows as they pass by.
Your job as a visual merchandiser is to
expand that time frame. Think about the
product you want to feature, your desired
message, any props you will need, signing
to add and, of course, lighting.
As you create your display, step outside
and check it frequently from different
angles. Is the display easy to take in from all
directions?
Let’s start with what not to do!
Avoid any display that assumes shoppers
will place themselves at the centre of the
window and pause to take it all in. Some
customers will do that, but most will glance
around and keep walking.
You are in trouble if there is no clear focal
point or theme. Mango, a Spanish clothing
design and manufacturing company
founded in Barcelona, now has locations
worldwide.
In New York, the company’s window display
used two techniques to stop traffic: Bold
colour and the 'power of three’. Customers
are attracted to the colour red, that’s why
it’s frequently used in product packaging.
Red in display windows catches the eye
and becomes a style backdrop.
The ‘power of three’ technique works
because our brains are hardwired to
seek asymmetrical things. Displays that
feature products grouped in odd numbers
– especially threes – cause our eyes to
move about the display. We see more and
potentially buy more.
Creative props and merchandising
Do you know that dresser you picked up
on the curb, cleaned up, and repurposed
as a display fixture? You were upcycling,
practising one of today’s hottest trends.
Banana Republic performed brand
upcycling in 2021 when the company
went back to its origins with its ‘Imagined
Worlds’ campaign that ‘reflects Banana
Republic as it was originally conceived – a
fictitious territory – far-away and unknown
place that is part of explorer folklore and
adventurers’ lore.’
Props and fixturing carry out the theme
in-store.
Slow customers down
Located approximately 10 feet inside the
front door, speed bump displays build an
instant first impression.
Their job is the same as their cousins in
the parking lot: to slow you down! Speed
bumps create the perception of what
customers can expect while perusing your
sales floor, so use them to feature new
Fortunately,
there are many
strategies,
tactics, tips
and techniques
to help you
encourage
customers to
come closer
and interact
with the
merchandise.
arrivals, cross-merchandise with related
items, and tell product stories.
Remember to change them weekly.
Increase your add-on sales
Cross-merchandising is your best friend
and an easy way to increase your average
sales. How?
Your store should be displaying
complementary items next to each other.
If you are buying scrapbook paper, you
might also need glue sticks, and if those
glue sticks are hanging on the paper rack
on a clip strip, you have a better chance of
encouraging an impulse sale.
Cross-merchandising also includes
using merchandise outposts and
placing a complete display of products
from one department in another.
Bundling products together at one price
also helps unload overstocks and slowmoving
items Coordinating accessories
and plants on the shelf can finish the
look for this approach. Plants are
always a lovely touch.
Studies show that plants reduce stress,
increase productivity, and add a positive
spin to your store’s overall ambience.
Signs to increase sales and visibility
A study by FedEx Office found that 68 per
cent of US consumers made a purchase
simply because a sign caught their eye.
Here’s another statistic: 74 per cent of all
purchase decisions are made in-store, so
signs are silent salespeople. Imagine what
it could mean for your sales if you decided
no display was finished until the fixture
was signed correctly. Well-thought-out
and signed displays allow you to express
your creativity while optimising the square
footage on your sales floor.
Try these visual merchandising tricks
of the trade in your store and watch
what happens!
RICH KIZER AND GEORGANNE BENDER
are retail strategists, authors and
consultants.Learn more:
kizerandbender.com
58 | November 2023

BUSINESS
Logged On
The missing piece of the puzzle for your website
Are you ready to take your digital marketing strategy to the next level?
THOMAS YOUNG discusses the hottest new tools available to increase the impact of business websites.
Digital marketing strategy and business
websites have come a long way in the past
20 years.
of determining what customers want from
your website. Two excellent heat mapping
tools are CrazyEgg and HotJar.
Website designs have improved
significantly, the quality of content has
consistently increased, and many websites
have robust resource sections.
• Geolocation tools on your website allow
people to find your location quickly and offer
further information on where your potential
customers are coming from.
This is progress; however, there is always
room for improvement – and chances are
your business’ website is no exception.
Have you felt the frustration of reviewing a
business website and struggling to find a
store location?
There are several often-overlooked areas
where business websites can improve. The
purpose behind these updates is to add
value to visitors' experience and improve
your results from digital marketing.
Interactive call-to-action forms
Well-thought-out interactive submissions
encourage visitors to your website to
answer a series of questions. These
programs are great for consumers because
they allow them to communicate what is
most important to them.
They are also great for your business
because you’re provided with a detailed
rundown from a customer who has clarified
their needs before engaging with your staff.
There are many examples of how these
forms work and can improve sales
conversion rates when executed effectively.
Tools of this nature can also be used for
lead generation.
Book a meeting directly
Modern consumers are impatient and
want fast results. The internet has
changed our culture, and consumers have
new expectations when interacting with
businesses.
People don’t want to wait for a response;
they want immediate confirmation, which
applies to appointments and consultations.
Rather than submitting a form, sending an
email, or leaving a voicemail, why not offer
your customers the option to schedule a
meeting directly on your website?
While most jewellery customers will
expect an in-person consultation, make
sure you present the opportunity for a
Zoom meeting, too. The COVID pandemic
accelerated the acceptance of video
conferencing, and for many consumers,
it's preferred.
Live chat
An increasing number of consumers are
using live chat services when online.
Live chat can capture email addresses and
engage with users at any time of the day
or night.
HubSpot’s AI chat feature offers
communication with visitors and additional
reporting so you better understand the
customer's needs.
Including a live chat function evolves your
business website from an online brochure
to an interactive tool to improve sales and
rapport with customers.
Other tools to consider
If you’d like to generate improved sales
with a more effective digital marketing
strategy, consider the following programs
for your website.
• Consumers do not see heat mapping;
however, the data gathered allows you
to observe users interacting with your
website and its content.
This data offers insight into areas of
improvement and highlights which
strategies are working effectively.
These programs take the guesswork out
Including a live
chat function
evolves your
business website
from an online
brochure to an
interactive tool
to improve sales
and customer
rapport.
The location of your store should always
be immediately apparent when visiting
your website, and conversely, collecting
information on where your customers are
based is valuable data.
• You may remember the phrase ‘content
is king.’ Times have changed, and the new
and improved phrase is ‘user intent is king.’
Your landing pages will only perform well
if they match user intent. People will likely
leave websites if they don’t immediately see
what they want on any page.
This is why dedicated landing pages are so
important for Google Ads and social media
marketing success.
An increasing trend in Google Analytics
reports is that website visitors want to get
information from a single landing page.
They are averse to clicking on navigation
menus and would instead get value from
the page they are reviewing.
The increasing use of smartphones impacts
this behaviour because visiting multiple
pages from a smaller device is difficult.
Your website is never done! It must be
constantly evolving and improving.
Websites not implementing these new
tactics are missing opportunities for
increased sales. Review your strategy
in these key areas and determine
whether your business can benefit from
implementing new tools.
THOMAS YOUNG is CEO of Intuitive
Websites. He has more than 25 years’
marketing and sales experience. Visit:
intuitivewebsites.com
November 2023 | 59

My Bench
Kate Higgins
Eli Speaks Jewellery
AGE: 40 • YEARS IN TRADE 15 • TRAINING On-the-job training in Melbourne, Australia. • FIRST JOB: Svedia Jewellery.
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60 | November 2023

OPINION
Soapbox
The more things change,
the more they stay the same
The connection between storytelling and jewellery is thousands of years old.
FRAN DOREY suggests that in studying history, there are valuable lessons to learn.
I was recently told that jewellery
retailers are frequently advised
to emphasise the importance of
storytelling and personalisation in their
business because it’s a quality that
consumers increasingly desire.
It’s said that more now than ever, younger
consumers, in particular, desire jewellery
that reinforces their sense of individuality.
Let me assure you that while it’s true
that jewellery is a powerful storytelling
technique – it’s far from a new
phenomenon!
Later this month, the Australian Museum
will open the Ramses & the Gold of
the Pharaohs exhibition – showcasing
jewellery that is 3,500 years old.
From the four-kilogram necklace of rolled
gold to delicate cartouche rings, every
piece of jewellery tells a fascinating story.
There are necklaces, bracelets, rings,
earrings, amulets, diadems and more.
On display are royal funerary treasures
made of precious material: gold, silver,
electrum, lapis lazuli, obsidian, turquoise
stone, carnelian and chalcedony.
Some of the finest examples of Egyptian
jewellery from any period are within the
exhibition. I am particularly interested
in the stories attached to these female
artefacts from 12th Dynasty princesses.
Jewellery imbued a royal woman with
superhuman powers and thus enabled
her to support the king in his role as a
‘guarantor of divine order’ on earth.
The king benefited from the magical
powers inherent in the jewellery worn by
the female members of his family, which
explains why his name, rather than that of
the princess, appears in the designs.
For example, consider the Diadem of
Sithathoryunet, a masterpiece with a
circular gold band decorated with a cobra
at the front and fifteen rosettes.
Artefacts like this also tell interesting
stories on the role of jewellery for women.
Jewellery worn by royal women during
the Middle Kingdom was not simply for
adornment or an indication of status but
was also symbolic of concepts and myths
surrounding Egyptian royalty.
Then there’s the Collar of Psusennes I.
This solid gold collar, crafted more than
3,000 years ago, is made of seven rows of
thin, disk-shaped gold beads.
It is heavy, weighing 4.3 kilograms. Collars
of this type were known as the shebyu or
‘gold of honour,’ traditionally given by a
pharaoh to officials who had served with
particular distinction.
Pharaohs could also wear the gold of
honour as a mark of divine favour.
Psusennes was buried with three shebyu
collars, each slightly different in design.
This collar closes at the back with a
golden clasp decorated with the king’s
cartouches, flanked on one side by a
seated figure of Amun and on the other by
a seated figure of the goddess Mut.
The inscription is carved into the gold and
inlaid with semi-precious gemstones.
Finally, there’s the Mirror of Princess
Sithathoriunet. The mirror is made from
silver, while the handle is obsidian. The
handle takes the form of a papyrus stem
inlaid with gold ending with a doublesided
face of the goddess Hathor.
Through the depiction of the goddess
Hathor, the mirror imparted beauty and
joy to its owner.
It was found among the jewellery of
Princess Sithathoriunet in a special niche
of her underground tomb beside the
pyramid of Senusret II at Lahun.
In ancient Egypt, mirrors weren’t used
only in everyday life, but they were also of
great importance in the afterlife.
Seeing a face reflected in the disc must
have brought to mind the ka (spirit), a sort
of cosmic twin that came into existence
when a person was born and continued to
exist after death.
The mirror handle could be connected
to a specific symbology besides being
aesthetically beautiful and functional.
The papyrus-like shape, for example,
Jewellery worn
by royal women
during the Middle
Kingdom was
not simply for
adornment or
an indication of
status but was
also symbolic
of concepts
and myths
surrounding
Egyptian royalty.
balanced the metal disc, but it was
also associated with Hathor, a goddess
capable of promoting the rebirth of a
spirit in the afterlife.
Timeless appeal
I’m sure many reading this find these
beliefs bewildering and baffling; however,
consider your customers’ emotional
attachment to their jewellery.
At weddings, couples still exchange
jewellery to symbolise love and eternal
commitment. Bridal jewellery is
selected based on symbolic importance
– something old, something new,
something borrowed, something blue.
We often use jewellery to memorialise
significant achievements – a new
wristwatch to celebrate a promotion or
new job or a necklace to acknowledge
the significance of graduation, just as the
Collar of Psusennes I was worn as the
symbol of a divine ruler.
We add engravings on many of these
pieces to reinforce this individuality – just
as the Ancient Egyptians engraved their
jewellery with names and symbols.
Today, many people choose to be buried
in their most cherished jewellery –
especially wedding bands – just as the
Pharaohs were buried in tombs adorned
with treasures!
There’s no doubt that personalisation
and storytelling are important to your
customers; however, this is not a new
phenomenon.
This is an exhibition for everyone -
especially jewellery lovers. If history
teaches us anything, it’s that jewellery
has always had a story to tell.
Name: Fran Dorey
Business: The Australian Museum
Position: Head of Exhibitions
Location: Sydney, NSW
Years in the industry: 25
262 | November | 2023

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marketing and gemmologist teams to assist in all your needs.
Become a stockist today
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