Jeweller - August 2023

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AUGUST 2023
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Show & Tell
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AUGUST XXXX 2022 2023
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
17 Editorial
18 Upfront
20 News
67 Show & Tell
34
37
112
114
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: August 2013
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Influential Gemmologists: III
MY BENCH
James Andrews
SOAPBOX
Irene Deutsch
49 STARS IN THEIR EYES
Power of Persuasion?
4It's often accepted as a foregone conclusion
that celebrities influence the choices made
by consumers when shopping for jewellery.
Have you ever questioned just how much sway
these trendsetters really have?
Features
41
49
61
WISDOM FROM THE BENCH
Learn more about the artisans behind Australian jewellery
INFLUENCE UNDER THE MICROSCOPE
How much impact do celebrities have on consumer taste?
MANAGEMENT MASTERCLASS
Avoiding change can be the greatest risk of all
98
GEMSTONE MINING JOURNEY
Join the hunt for rubies and sapphires
Better Your Business
67 IT'S SHOWTIME
Super Show & Tell
4Learn all about the latest and greatest
jewellery products, collections, and
services available at the upcoming
International Jewellery Fair in Sydney.
106
108
109
110
111
BUSINESS STRATEGY
What does it take to be a great leader? DAVID BROWN offers helpful insights.
SELLING
BERNADETTE MCCLELLAND puts traditional sales wisdom to the test.
MANAGEMENT
You need to be willing to break the rules for your customers. SHEP HYKEN explains why.
MARKETING & PR
DAVE WAKEMAN outlines the importance of perception management.
LOGGED ON
DALE FURTWENGLER offers a guide to turn negative reviews into positive outcomes.
98 HUNT FOR NATURAL BEAUTY
Rubies and sapphires
4Rubies and sapphires are remarkable
gemstones - treasures of the natural world
that elevate jewellery collections. JUSTIN
K PRIM explores the mining industry
behind these colourful gemstones.
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Editor’s Desk
When opportunity doesn’t knock, build a door
The largest Sydney trade show of the past decade is just weeks away.
ANGELA HAN stresses the importance of making the most of the opportunities these events present.
In the blink of an eye, another year has
come and gone and, once again, the
International Jewellery Fair is right
around the corner.
If we learned anything from the global
pandemic which has reshaped the trade over
the past three years, it’s that face-to-face
interactions are worth their weight in gold.
The quality of the business relationships
that are formed and strengthened at
industry gatherings such as the Sydney
Fair isn’t easily replicated over Zoom or
Skype – they just don’t feel the same.
As US politician Richard J Daley once said,
“If a man’s handshake is no good, all the
legal paper in the world won’t make it good.”
While many of the technological
‘workarounds’ during lockdowns
showcased ingenuity and creativity,
nothing could make up for the
importance of in-person shopping.
From a consumer perspective, nothing
could replace the feeling of examining a
new necklace or ring in person. It was a
similar experience for the sales staff, who
quickly learned that it’s much easier to
communicate the beauty of jewellery and
gemstones face-to-face.
With that said, those planning on attending
the upcoming show should be pleased to
know that the event’s organisers say this
year’s trade show will be the largest of the
past decade.
Furthermore, this issue of Jeweller has
everything you’ll need ahead of the fair;
standing at 116 pages – double the typical
size of the magazine - it is full of new
products and ideas.
Whether you’re looking for that hot
'it' trend, the latest products, a
strategy for improving your business,
or insight into consumer decisionmaking,
there’s something for everyone.
With the most important annual event on
the Australian jewellery industry’s calendar
just weeks away, every tool you need is at
your disposal – the rest is up to you!
Knowledge is power
For example, while ‘trade’ will always
be front and centre at events such as
the Sydney Fair, they also present an
opportunity to increase your store’s
profitability.
Indeed, how you sell jewellery is equally as
important as what jewellery you’re selling.
This year three important presentations
will address differing topics designed to
improve your business.
One of the most common complaints from
retailers is that it is difficult to stand out in
a crowded and competitive market.
Publicity and brand strategist Karen Eck
has worked for more than two decades
helping small businesses overcome this
very problem.
Eck will host a special presentation –
The Power of Visibility – and discuss
methods for gaining recognition by
building skills and confidence.
She says that while self-promotion can be
difficult and awkward for many business
owners – especially when weighed against
other responsibilities – it’s vital for longterm
success.
Nationwide Jewellers managing director
Colin Pocklington will host a presentation
- ‘What is my business really worth?’ – and
guide visitors through the vital process of
understanding the value of your business.
I’m sure you’d agree that it’s difficult to
improve the value of your business if you
don’t have a firm understanding of what
the initial value is!
In a time where retailers are forced to
adapt to changing market dynamics,
understanding the value of your business
is not a luxury – it’s a requirement.
Pocklington will also provide invaluable
insight into boosting profitability and
performance.
On the third day of the show, the
Attorney-General’s Department will offer
guidance and details about how proposed
legal reforms will impact the jewellery
industry. For example, is it legal for a
jeweller to accept payment in cash of
more than $10,000?
The presentation will be centred
around anti-money laundering and
counter-terrorism financing.
“If a man’s
handshake is
no good, all the
legal paper in
the world won’t
make it good.”
The knowledge of how to protect your
business from exploitation by money
launderers and other criminals is
invaluable.
The information available at these sessions
has the potential to significantly improve
your business – whether it be via direct
application, or simply by changing the
way you view your practices.
With that said, the real work begins when
the fair concludes and it’s time to convert
these insights into action.
Tomorrow’s best and brightest
Along with all the usual highlights, this
year’s Sydney Fair comes with a valuable
addition – a renewed focus on the industry’s
younger contributors.
Emerging jewellers from the Design
Centre Enmore (TAFE NSW) will
demonstrate their technical skills, and
visitors will have the opportunity to witness
the resulting creativity and innovation.
The jewellery and watchmaking trade is
built upon a rich history and tradition, and
this year the aim is to nurture and support
the next generation of talent.
And perhaps as an increasing recognition
of the importance of the International
Jewellery Fair, a delegation from the
US-based Independent Jewelers
Organisation (IJO) will exploring the
show floor with us for the first time.
The IJO is a founding member of the
Global Jewellers Network, a collaboration
with Australia’s Nationwide Jewellers and
the UK’s Company of Master Jewellers.
Indeed, one of the highlights of events
such as the Sydney Fair is seeing new
visitors interspersed with familiar faces.
As always, the Jeweller team is looking
forward to greeting you with a smile and a
handshake, as well as a copy of our latest
magazine and trade fair directory.
Events such as these are a golden
opportunity to prepare for a productive
year ahead; however, as we all know –
you can’t climb the ladder of success
with your hands in your pockets!
Angela Han
Publisher
August 2023 | 17

Upfront
Rewind: Best Bench Tip
FEBRUARY 2016
Image credit: Getty
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
“Listen to your
customers – they’re
always right. Well,
sometimes.”
JEFF CROSS
JMX JEWELLERY
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
The Taj Mahal
Diamond
4The Taj Mahal Diamond is a gold and
ruby pendant by Cartier which was a
present from Richard Burton to his wife,
Elizabeth Taylor, on her 40th birthday in
1972. The diamond has an inscription of
the name of Nur Jahan, the wife of the
Mughal Emperor Shah Jahangir. The
diamond traces its roots back to the 17th
century. The heart-shaped, table-cut diamond features inscriptions in
both Persian and Arabic languages, suggesting the possible origin of the
diamond. The Taj Mahal Diamond appears white and has been classified
as a Type IIa diamond, with a colour grade ranging from D to F. The carat
weight has never been established as it is mounted on a jade setting and
is close to impossible to safely remove.
Blockchain bonanza
4Despite the shock collapse of Brisbane-based Everledger,
blockchain technology continues to make waves in the retail
landscape. One important area of adoption is customer loyalty
programs. By implementing blockchain-based loyalty programs,
retailers can provide more transparent and flexible reward
systems. Blockchain enables the creation of digital tokens or
cryptocurrencies that can be securely exchanged and transferred
between retailers or converted into fiat currency. This seamless
interoperability and transparency may enhance customer loyalty and
satisfaction. Another significant impact of blockchain is its ability to
enhance supply chain visibility and traceability.
Timeless Trends
4Jewellery is all about self-expression
and nothing is more important than
colour selection. Vibrantly coloured
accessories and rainbow jewellery have
captured significant attention this year.
Experimenting with colour blocking
is particularly popular, for example by
wearing a pair of exotic green emerald
earrings with an all-black ensemble like
Angelina Jolie.
Campaign Watch
4Swarovski has launched their latest
campaign named 'Metamorphosis'.
Photographer Steven Meisel captured
the campaign which was produced by
creative director Giovanna Engelbert
and styled by renowned makeup artist
Dame Pat McGrath. The campaign is
dedicated to crystals and the power of
self-expression.
Image credit: Swarovski
Back in business
4Russia's largest diamond mining
company Alrosa has confirmed
plans to build a new $US1.5 billion
mine at Mir, following the 2017
flooding disaster that claimed eight
lives. Work will start this year and
the first industrial production is
expected in 2030-31, according to
the Russian source Interfax. Mir
opened in 1957 as the first diamond
mine in what was the USSR.
Making a splash
4Sydney student Alice Robert is
enjoying an explosion of popularity
with her waterproof jewellery
aimed at 'lazy girls'. What sets The
Littl apart from other lines is that
it is 14-carat-gold-filled, meaning
it’s composed of a solid layer of
gold bonded to a base of highquality
brass. This 14-carat-gold is
cheaper, waterproof, and doesn’t
tarnish and as an added bonus is
great for sensitive skin. Prominent
influencers and celebrities are
fans of the brand, which is now
sold in 55 countries in stores
including Sydney, Perth, Italy, and
the UK.
Deep sea trends
4Shells have always been used as
adornments and some of the earliest
known pieces of prehistoric jewellery
consisted of beads made with drilled
sea snail shells. More than 100,000
years later, the style continues
to inspire, and on this season’s
catwalks, designers such as Ulla
Johnson and Coach’s Stuart Vevers
fashioned orange-flecked mitra shells
and molluscs into necklaces and
statement earrings.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalist Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com
• Production Learoy Bangis art@befindanmedia.com • Production Riza Ortiz riza@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to
the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities
arising from the published material.

FP
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Riviera Automatic, 42mm

News
Duraflex's new partnership
with Daniel Wellington
Michael Hill focused on lab-created diamond range
Duraflex Group Australia (DGA) has been appointed
the exclusive distributor of the Swedish watch and
jewellery brand Daniel Wellington.
Daniel Wellington is available in more than 50 markets
and to date has sold over nine million watches. The
products are designed in Stockholm and have been
endorsed by prominent brand ambassadors such as
Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber.
Duraflex managing director Phil Edwards said the
partnership would aim to make the most of the brand’s
dedicated following.
“Consumer perception of the brand locally is
extremely positive with an extensive consumer
following. With the brand having been in the market
for a number of years we are all aware of the
significant brand awareness and significant consumer
desire for the brand,” he told Jeweller.
“Currently, the brand is performing exceptionally well
in both major department stores and mini-majors.
Current distribution via independent retailers is
limited; however, this will be strategically expanded
via our DGA network.”
It’s something of a revised approach to the Australian
market for the brand, having previously been distributed
by West End Collection. In recent years the company
has attempted to move to a vertically integrated model;
however, has now partnered with DGA.
“Like many other international brands, Daniel
Wellington had strategically pivoted to their own local
company-owned subsidiary to establish a network of
mono-brand stores to showcase the entire collection to
consumers for a true brand experience,” Edwards said.
“They acknowledge this strategy also needed to be
supported with a strong wholesale network, and have
therefore over the past 12 months pivoted back to local
distributors in many countries across the world.”
DGA will showcase Daniel Wellington at the upcoming
International Jewellery Fair (19-21 August) in Sydney at
stands A05, A07, and A12.
Major Australian jewellery retailer Michael Hill
International has expanded its range of labcreated
diamond jewellery.
It’s been a productive year for the Brisbanebased
retailer with operations in New Zealand
and Canada, acquiring retail rival Bevilles and
launching a new gold recycling program.
Michael Hill has now expanded its lab-created
diamond jewellery offering, adding earrings,
necklaces, and tennis bracelets.
CEO Daniel Bracken told the Sydney Morning
Herald: “We haven’t made a big noise about
lab-created diamonds until now because we
have been increasing our capabilities and
understanding.”
“When the bulk of your business is mined
diamonds you need to be careful with the
introduction of a new source. It needs to be
managed appropriately.”
Michael Hill operates 148 stores in Australia,
along with 47 in New Zealand and 86 in
Canada. The company plans to open 80 new
Bevilles locations by 2028.
“Diamond giant De Beers convinced the
world that mined diamonds were a symbol of
timelessness and permanence, but now there’s
an increasing number of customers looking for
choice,” Bracken added.
“They’re interested in sourcing and scale. It’s
pretty much about more bang for your buck.”
Lab-created diamonds are six per cent of
Michael Hill’s diamond sales, and Bracken said
he was confident the figure will reach 10 per
cent with the extensive new collection.
Richemont sales continue to rebound in Asia,
off-setting concerning decline in US market
Swiss luxury goods company Richemont has
enjoyed a strong rise in sales off the back of
healthy demand in the Asia Pacific region.
Sales at jewellery brands such as Cartier, Van
Cleef & Arpels, and Buccellati improved by 19
per on a year-by-year comparison, reaching
€3.6 billion ($AU5.95 billion) for the quarter.
Jewellery was the company’s best-performing
division, while sales at watchmakers
benefited from ‘thriving retail sales’.
Revenue from watch brands such as A. Lange
& Söhne, Piaget, and Vacheron Constantin
increased by six per cent €1.06 billion
($AU1.75 billion).
While the rebounding market in China
produced pleasing results, it wasn’t all good
news for Richemont – with sales declining
in the US amid concerns about inflation and
cost-of-living pressures.
“The Swiss owner of Cartier reported a
surprise drop in revenue from the Americas
in the three months through June. While
Richemont’s sales from Asia rose sharply,
China reported slower-than-expected
economic growth on Monday, signalling signs
of a possible pullback in consumer spending,”
writes Andy Hoffman of the Australian
Financial Review.
“The luxury-goods industry has been counting
on a rebound in China after that country’s
reopening would make up for weakness in the
US market. Now Richemont and its peers are
contending with the prospect that its two main
growth motors are weakening.”
Group revenue increased 14 per cent on a
year-by-year comparison to €5.32 billion
($AU8.79 billion).
20 | August 2023

News
That’s all folks: Brisbane-based Everledger to face $19 million liquidation
Despite attempts to save the Brisbane-based
technology and diamond tracing company,
Everledger Australia has been placed in liquidation
with unsecured creditors totalling $AU19,178,371.
In addition, more information has come to light
about CEO Leanne Kemp’s previous companies and
business dealings.
The voluntary administrators published a notice
on the Australian Securities and Investments
Commission (ASIC) website on 12 July confirming
that a special resolution to wind up the company
had been passed.
Everledger was launched in 2016, and it was
previously thought that the acceptance of a Deed of
Company Arrangement (DOCA) proposed by Kemp
- seeing her pick up the company for as little as
$AU50,000 - would prevent it from being liquidated.
In a filing published on ASIC on 21 June, a
nine-step process was recommended by
voluntary administrator Steven Staatz of Vincents
Accountants which included Kemp (The Proponent)
forgiving a debt of $AU243,512 as a creditor and
making a payment of $AU50,000.
According to Kemp’s plan, she would be required
to assist Deed Administrators secure an Australian
government Research and Development Incentive
Return for the company valued at $AU625,000.
Following the successful completion of the DOCA,
the control of the company would be returned to
Kemp as director.
“In my opinion, it would be in the best interest of
the creditors to accept the proposal for a Deed of
Company Arrangement,” Staatz wrote on 21 June;
however, it all fell apart when the wind up notice
was accepted.
Everledger was initially placed under Voluntary
Administration on 24 April, and the subsequent
administrator’s report noted that, under Kemp’s
management, the company effectively survived on
government income and grants.
Further details revealed
This is not the first time a company led by Kemp
was placed under administration following the
failure to secure government research and
development funding and/or tax concessions.
Following Jeweller’s recent reports on companies
with which Kemp has been associated - as director
and/or shareholder - various industry sources have
come forward with further information.
These voluntary submissions relate to Everledger,
Phenix Jewellery, Absoft, Kemp’s personal work
history, as well as additional companies where
external administrators were appointed.
Jeweller has now learned of another legal matter
concerning Kemp and the Australian Government.
The dispute was over taxation concessions,
between the government and her Absoft Qld
company (which had changed its name to
'Naughtsncrosses Pty Ltd’). Kemp went to
the Administrative Appeals Tribunal of Australia
following the denial of generous research
and development tax concessions claimed by
Absoft Qld.
Innovation Australia is the independent statutory
board that advises the Australian Government
on innovation, science, and research matters - in
conjunction with the Commissioner of Taxation.
An independent assessment in 2009 had
determined that the activities claimed in connection
with Absoft’s technology project did not satisfy
the statutory criteria. Following Kemp’s challenge
of the decision, the Appeals Tribunal upheld
Innovation Australia’s original decision to deny the
claim for tax concessions.
Appeal Tribunal deputy president Phillip Hack
concluded that Kemp’s evidence was lacklustre.
“The evidence of Ms Kemp about this document
was vague; she did not know whether any of the
parties signed a version of this document but it was,
she said, ‘executed by way of a payment’ (whatever
that might mean),” the decision reads.
As part of her appeal, Kemp claimed that the sale
of the product had been made to another company
in 2007; however, Hack had a different view.
“The evidence falls well short of satisfying me that
was so but even if it were it is not demonstrated
that the software was developed for the purpose of
sale, lease, etc. to two or more entities,” he stated.
“If contrary to my view of the evidence, there was a
second later sale that was, at best, opportunistic;
it does not demonstrate the purpose of the original
activity in writing the software.”
Is history repeating itself?
Hack also criticised Absoft’s case indicating
that it was not easy to discern and much of it
was couched in generalities.
“[Kemp’s assertions] did not point to any evidence,
perhaps because there was so little evidence to
which reference could be made,” Hack concluded.
The Appeal Tribunal’s decision to uphold
the original decision denying Absoft
(Naughtsncrosses Pty Ltd) tax concessions
was made on 24 October 2012.
ASIC records show only seven days after the
decision, Absoft Qld was placed under
Voluntary Administration, on 2 November 2012.
It is worth noting that Kemp has previously
attributed the collapse of Everledger solely to
decisions made by other people.
In an interview with JCK Online, she claimed
that the withdrawal of financial support by other
shareholders was a breach of a legal agreement;
however, she has not explained why or how that
occurred. She also alluded to legal action against
the unidentified investor.
“We had a legal agreement, and we feel there’s
been a breach of that agreement. We will let the
legal process run its course,” she said in an article
published 16 May.
It is unknown whether Kemp intends to make good
on her legal threat now that Everledger Australia is
in liquidation.
Jeweller has contacted Kemp multiple times for
comment since the collapse of Everledger in April;
however, she is yet to respond.
August 2023 | 21

News
US tech giant GoDaddy silent amid international jewellery scammers controversy
to providing the best experience possible to our
clients and anyone who interacts with them. Please
let us know if a name registered here is being used
in a malicious or abusive way.”
Lacklustre response
Jeweller attempted to contact GoDaddy to seek
clarification. Namely, how it is that - in the first
instance - a URL that is being hosted free of charge
by GoDaddy could be used to help perpetrate
fraudulent transactions on the international
jewellery industry and, simultaneously, the same
URL is being offered for sale by GoDaddy?
Since the world has ‘reopened’ for business
following the global pandemic there has been
an increasing number of scams targeting the
international jewellery industry.
Jeweller has previously detailed and reported
on the various scams; however, recent research
has discovered that the vast majority of the
fraudsters are using the services of GoDaddy, the
US tech giant.
GoDaddy is listed on the New York Stock Exchange
with a market capitalisation of around $US12 billion
($AU17.5 billion). A preliminary investigation of 60
emails offering to sell intellectual property that
either does not exist or, if it does, is stolen, found
that 50 were operating via GoDaddy.
Worse, when the issue was raised with the
company, a senior GoDaddy representative
seemed disinterested.
The most common scam involves the lead-up
to international jewellery trade shows. They are
all targeted, from the annual JCK Las Vegas,
Hong Kong trade shows and Australia’s various
jewellery fairs. Indeed, these scammers don't
discriminate between large and small events.
How does it work?
It’s a simple scheme - companies listed as an
exhibitor on a show’s website receive emails
from people claiming to have the attendee
list and registered visitors.The emails, which
appear to be from people at different ‘research
companies’ follow a similar model and will often
use identical wording.
A recent scam email read; “You can acquire a
International Jewellery Fair 2023 attendee list
to promote your products and services, invite
current and prospective customers to your
booth, and maximize your reach before, during,
and after the exposition!”
The same wording and an identically formatted
email offers the same ‘data’ for JCK Las Vegas.For
a price, you can buy the complete contact details
of every visitor - before even attending the event!
The cost for this data is consistent from email to
email, despite the number of attendees and/or
visitors differing significantly from event to event.
For example, one recent email purports to offer
3,752 already registered visitors to the upcoming
International Jewellery Fair in Sydney (19-21
August) for $439 - discounted from $732.
Another scammer offers a database of 5,467
registered attendees at the same show for $429.
A further two emails from purportedly different
businesses each offer a list of 14,412 registered
visitors to the same event. According to these
'business analysts', it seems the attendance for the
one event can vary from 3,752 to 14,142 people.
Apparently, the lists are provided in MS Excel or CSV
Format and the email states the "usage license is
unlimited - making it a one-off purchase".
Under the hood
On the surface, the email address looks genuine;
however, further examination will prove otherwise.
In the examples above, there is no live website
attached to the URL and both are redirected to a
page that states that the website is “parked free
courtesy of GoDaddy.com”.
Intriguingly, and even though you have received an
email from a person at a business who offers to
sell you a list of registered fair attendees, you can
actually buy the website URL of the business. In just
one or two clicks on the GoDaddy website you can
own the URL of the business that was just offering
to sell you the details of 5,000 potential customers!
As stated above, this is not an isolated example. Of
the 60 emails examined by Jeweller purporting to
sell visitor lists to various jewellery trade shows, 50
directed back to GoDaddy.
GoDaddy's website states: “We’re a trusted growth
partner to millions of everyday entrepreneurs.
GoDaddy is the world’s largest services platform for
entrepreneurs around the globe.”
Under a heading titled ‘Abuse reporting’ the website
states: “GoDaddy Corporate Domains is committed
In reference to GoDaddy’s claim to be concerned
about “malicious” use of its services, Jeweller’s
email stated: “It has now come to our attention
that the vast majority of these scammers are
using GoDaddy’s services. We can provide
evidence about this.”
Thomas Costello, senior manager public relations
at GoDaddy responded to the enquiry. Rather than
seeking or requesting more information from
the media about an investigation into scamming,
Costello’s response seemed dismissive.
“We take cyber-safety very seriously,” Costello said.
He then seemingly suggested that Jeweller staff
should report the matter on the GoDaddy Abuse
Reporting page, adding that the “abuse team
regularly assesses and takes actions against sites
that violate our terms of service”.
Of concern is the GoDaddy page that states: “We
can't guarantee any particular outcome, but we'll
review your complaint and contact you only if
necessary. You will not receive updates regarding
the evaluation or outcome of the complaint.”
The page is not intended for media requests and/
or enquiries about possible criminal activity. Worse,
Godaddy.com has two links for Abuse Reporting;
however, one is non-functional. A page displaying
important company information and its policies
also has a ‘Report Abuse’ link which - when tested
by Jeweller - generated an error 404 message.”
Jeweller has contacted GoDaddy CEO Alan Bhutani
for an explanation about his company’s claims
that it takes “cyber-safety very seriously” while
simultaneously appearing to have no interest
in being provided information about possible
widespread scamming operations involving the
services of his company.
Importantly, clarification was also sought from
Bhutani on the seemingly contradictory position of
GoDaddy claiming to be a ‘trusted’ company while
hosting URLs being used for ‘malicious’ activity and
at the same time offering to sell the same URL.
Jeweller has been in contact with the US Federal
Bureau of Investigation (FBI) for comment and
regarding further investigation.
22 | August 2023

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News
THE VINTAGE
WATCH TO
WATCH
Farren-Price reveals dazzling
Argyle Lotus pink diamond jewellery
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(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au
Australian jeweller J Farren-Price is showcasing the first piece from a
new collection featuring pink diamonds sourced from the now-closed
Argyle Mine.
As part of the Argyle Heritage Collection, the piece is named the Argyle
Lotus ring and features 3.34 carats of fancy colour pink diamonds paired
with 3.8 carats of white diamonds. Farren-Price created the piece in
collaboration with renowned diamond specialist Glajz.
The lotus design is set in 18-carat rose gold, with petals unfurling from a
0.12-carat blue diamond, symbolising water.
Director of J Farren-Price, Julian Farren-Price told Jeweller: "This
collection is definitely our most important single acquisition of the
finest Argyle pink diamonds to date."
Pink diamonds remain very much the centre of attention for the world's
leading jewellery designers, with Tiffany & Co adding 'fuel to the fire' in
January when the company confirmed the purchase of a collection of
Australian fancy colour diamonds.
Farren-Price added: “This extraordinary collection of rare Argyle pink
diamonds is a dream come true. We are excited to honour the world’s
most iconic pink diamonds and each creation in the Argyle Heritage
Collection will represent the ultimate in rarity and collectability.”
“We appreciate that every Argyle pink diamond is a beautiful wonder
of nature and it is with great pride that we continue to transform these
billion-year-old gemstones into jewellery that recreates this beauty for
future generations.”
The Argyle Lotus will be available for sale for $AU930,000 through
J Farren-Price’s store in Sydney. The ring was created as a part of
Rio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamonds Icon Partner program. Comprised of
jewellers renowned for their unique and captivating vision, the program
celebrates the world’s most valuable diamonds through excellence in
craftsmanship and design.
“We are delighted with this creative collaboration and The Argyle Lotus
ring is a fitting debut piece for this heritage collection of masterpieces that
will speak to the beauty and precious provenance of these outstanding
jewels,” Patrick Coppens, general manager of sales and marketing for
Rio Tinto said.
Further additions to the collection will be revealed by Farren-Price in the
coming months.
The Argyle Diamond Mine in WA was the source of the world’s highestquality
pink diamonds and was closed in November 2020.

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News
De Beers slashes prices,
concerns continue in US
Presentation at Sydney Fair to detail counterterrorism
and money laundering legal reform
would impact the jewellery industry.
The presentation will cover the purpose of the
reforms, the consultation process and timing,
how the proposed regulation may impact
jewellery retailers and suppliers, and what it
would look like to be regulated under the AML/
CTF regime.
“These reforms would extend the existing AML/
CTF regime to help industry, including dealers in
precious stones and metals, protect themselves
from exploitation from money launderers and
other criminal actors,” a spokesperson for the
Attorney-General’s Department told Jeweller.
The De Beers Group has decreased its prices for
select larger rough diamonds amid weak
consumer demand.
Rapaport News has reported that the price cuts range
from 5 per cent to 15 per cent in diamonds 0.75 carats
and larger, with an emphasis on two-carat diamonds.
“De Beers has focused its adjustments on the lowerquality
items for which demand has been especially
slow, the sources said on condition of anonymity.
Polished sales in SI to I2 clarities have slumped this
year due to the overall weakness of US retail — the
main market for this range — as well as competition
from lab-created diamonds,” the report states.
Attendees at the upcoming International
Jewellery Fair (19-21 August) will have an
opportunity to learn the latest from experts on
proposed reforms to Australia’s anti-money
laundering and counter-terrorism financing
(AML/CTF) laws.
On the third day of the Sydney Fair, the Attorney-
General’s Department (AGD) will give a
presentation detailing how these proposed laws
“Precious metals and stones are effective
channels to legitimise criminal proceeds serving
multiple purposes, including storing value,
transferring value, and lifestyle consumption.
Currently, only bullion dealers are covered by the
AML/CTF regime.”
The IJF will be hosted at the International
Convention and Exhibition Centre in Sydney’s
Darling Harbour.
Rough diamond exports in decline for Russians
“The company also maintained its policy of allowing
30 per cent buybacks for certain low-performing
items, the industry sources said. Buybacks let
sightholders sell a proportion of the rough they’ve
purchased back to De Beers, allowing them to
offload the stones that will generate the least
profit. The limit is usually 10 per cent.”
Sales at De Beers’ latest cycle reached $US450
million ($AU673.1 million), a 32 per cent decline.
US market struggling
According to the latest research from Tenoris,
jewellery and diamond sales decreased 4.6 per cent
year-by-year in June in the US market. The combined
value of jewellery and diamond sales declined by 11.2
per cent. In the first half, unit sales have decreased by
5.9 per cent.
“Natural diamond sales are on an ongoing downward
trend. Year over year, unit sales fell 23.8 per cent. By
total value, sales fell 20.9 per cent versus June 2022,”
writes Edahn Golan.
“In the first six months of 2023, natural diamond sales
were slashed 21 per cent by value and volume. It’s not
surprising that diamond sales have been declining in
recent months after an exceptional post-COVID run.”
Retailer margins are also reportedly shrinking, with an
average of 35.2 per cent in June (a 4.2 per cent decline
on a year-by-year comparison).
According to the latest figures from the
Kimberley Process, Russia’s rough diamond
exports declined significantly in the past year
amid worldwide sanctions following the invasion
of Ukraine.
Russia’s rough exports declined by 24 per cent
on a year-by-year comparison in 2022, totalling
36.7 million carats.
Despite the decline, rough production increased
by seven per cent to 41.9 million carats. Global
rough output increased by 24 per cent on a
year-by-year comparison to $US16.02 billion
($AU23.95 billion), while production was close to
neutral (0.6 per cent decline).
“While the US and other G7 nations, including
the UK, have levelled sanctions against Russia
for its invasion of Ukraine in February 2022,
others, such as Belgium, have been slower to
refuse imports from the country,” writes Leah
Meirovich of Rapaport News.
“The decline in [global] exports reflected the
Russian situation as well as a 36 per cent
slump in the number of carats exported from
Botswana, a 29 per cent fall from the EU, and
a 14 per cent decrease from the United Arab
Emirates.”
An increase in global production value was
attributed to Botswana, which improved output
by 27 per cent. Total imports slipped 16 per cent
by volume and global exports fell 21 per cent.
Recent media reports have suggested that
harsher sanctions will be installed against
Russia in early 2024.
26 | August 2023

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News
Tiffany & Co purchases rare ‘Tiffany Muzo Emerald’
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Tiffany & Co has announced the purchase of a
stunning 10-carat emerald from the Muzo Mines
of Colombia.
Named the ‘Tiffany Muzo Emerald’, the gemstone
was sourced approximately 100 kilometres
northwest of the city of Bogotá.
“As the world’s authority on rare gemstones, we
are thrilled to announce our recent acquisition
of the Tiffany Muzo Emerald,” Tiffany & Co chief
gemmologist Victoria Wirth Reynolds said.
museum featuring multi-media displays detailing
the origins and appeal of colour gemstones.
The company has operated since 1854 and the
museum was launched in celebration of Gem Lab’s
100th anniversary.
Gem Lab’s rise to a respected institution is
attributed to the late Eduard Josef Gübelin,
a gemmologist known for his research in
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“This remarkable gemstone, weighing more than
10 carats, is a continuation of Tiffany’s longstanding
heritage of acquiring the most coveted gemstones
that Mother Nature has to offer.”
The emerald is square-cut and was extracted from
the Puerto Arturo shaft in December 2019. The
gemstone has been praised for its exceptional clarity
and transparency, which highlights its rich colour.
With no fissures and the emerald is close to
inclusion free, displaying only a few found by
microscopic examination.
Interaction and inspiration
The House of Gübelin has opened the Gübelin
Gem Museum in Lucerne, Switzerland - a compact
Raphael Gübelin, president of the House of
Gübelin, said the museum would expand on the
exhibits over time.
“With this museum, we want to create a living
forum for interaction and inspiration,” he told
National Jeweler.
“At the very heart of Lucerne, the museum invites
visitors to discover exciting information about
gemstones and gemmology, jewellery and watches,
as well as the innovations and pioneering spirit of
our House.”
Gübelin curated the museum with jewellery expert
Beatriz Chadour-Sampson of the Swiss National
Museum in Zurich and the Victoria and Albert
Museum in London.
Sales surge continue for Chow Tai Fook and Luk Fook
Hong-Kong jeweller Chow Tai Fook has reported
strong sales figures in the opening quarter amid the
return of tourism to the region and opened 95 new
stores in mainland China.
Retail sales increased by 29 per cent on a year-byyear
comparison. Sales surged by 64 per cent in
Hong Kong and Macau specifically, as the border
with mainland China reopened in January following
a relaxing of pandemic restrictions.
“During the first quarter, the recovery in general
mobility and retail activity had continued to positively
impact our business in mainland China and Hong
Kong and Macau,” the company said in a statement.
Same-store sales of gold jewellery increased by 101
per cent in Hong Kong and Macau, and improved by
10 per cent in mainland China.
Chow Tai Fook is the second largest jewellery
retailer by market value in the world.
Another Hong Kong jewellery retailer Luk Fook
enjoyed a strong rise in sales in the opening quarter
of the financial year.
Retail sales value improved by 24 per cent on a
year-by-year comparison. Sales in Hong Kong and
Macau spiked by 92 per cent, while in mainland China
stores enjoyed a 21 per cent improvement.
Demand continued to increase for gold jewellery
specifically, while the sale of diamond jewellery
declined in mainland China.
“The group will continue to actively promote nondiamond
fixed-price jewellery products, especially
fixed-price gold products, in order to mitigate the
impact of the soft demand in diamond products,”
the company said in a statement.
Luk Fook’s same-store sales increased by 62 per
cent. The company now operates more than 3,000
stores in the region.
28 | August 2023

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News
Watches of Switzerland
thrilled with revenue record
Online dealers concerned over the increasing
sophistication of counterfeit luxury watches
The CEO of the UK’s largest seller of secondhand
timepieces has expressed his dismay
over the increasing difficulty of identifying
counterfeits.
According to Watchfinder’s Arjen van de Vall as
many as one in 10 luxury watches are fakes, and
it’s becoming harder and harder to spot them.
“We have a checklist when our watchmakers
see a watch. In the old days, around 20
per cent of watches would require further
inspection to understand it if they were fake,"
he told Bloomberg.
Amid positive consumer demand for luxury
timepieces, Watches of Switzerland’s group revenue
increased by 25 per cent for the full fiscal year.
The UK-based retailer reported sales of £1.54
billion ($AU2.94 billion) for the year that ended 30
April – a record for the company.
Sales increased by 10 per cent in the UK and
Europe, driven by the opening of 16 new stores.
In the US, revenue increased by 52 per cent to £653
million ($AU1.24 billion). Watches of Switzerland
CEO Brian Duffy said this market now represents
more than 40 per cent of total revenue.
"Today, around 80 per cent of watches need this
thorough testing and inspection to see if they are
genuine or not."
Watchfinder is part of the Richemont
conglomerate; however, he said that Rolex was
the hardest hit by counterfeiters because of the
brand’s market dominance. He estimated that
50 per cent of fake luxury watches are Rolex.
Watchfinder research has suggested that
more than 40 million counterfeit watches
are produced each year, double that of the
genuine Swiss industry.
Luxury timepieces: Impressive sales for Swatch
“Luxury watch sales increased 28 per cent year-onyear,
representing 87 per cent of group revenue,”
he said.
“Luxury jewellery sales increased at a more
modest 10 per cent in the year, reflecting a tougher
macroeconomic backdrop and focus on fullprice
sales. Following two years of exceptional
performance, sales are significantly ahead of plan.”
In 2024, the company will debut a flagship Rolex
store on London’s Old Bond Street and continue a
joint venture with watch brand Audemars Piguet.
The company expects revenue of between £1.65
billion ($AU3.15 billion) and £1.7 billion ($AU3.24
billion) for the full year.
Swiss conglomerate Swatch Group has reported
its strongest financials since the pandemic, with
sales for the first half of 2023 increasing by 18
per cent.
Sales reached CHF4.019 billion ($AU8.6 billion),
the group’s highest return since 2018.
Operating profit improved by 36.4 per cent, with
a statement lauding double-digit increases in all
watch and jewellery segments.
“The maker of Omega, Tissot and Longines
timepieces as well as its mass-market plastic
watches, said the lifting of COVID-related
restrictions in Asia boosted its sales, especially
in China, Thailand and Macao, which saw a rapid
rise in travel activity,” reports Reuters.
“It also noted strong increases in its core
European market, with sales in Switzerland
soaring almost 50 per cent.
“The strongest increases came from the
lowest price segment, Swatch said, announcing
it would be introducing new products focused on,
but not exclusive to, the lower and
mid-range segments.”
Swatch also revealed that it has acquired
property on Old Bond Street in London and a
store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris.
30 | August 2023

Leaders
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AND SHOW THE WAY
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Where the industry leaders are seen

Trade Fair
The world’s biggest jewellery fair
is back in Hong Kong!
Jewellery & Gem WORLD celebrates its 40th edition with
3,000+ exhibitors across two venues this September
The world’s biggest B2B jewellery sourcing event is set to
return to its Hong Kong home this September, in what marks
its first major comeback since 2019!
Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong (JGW), formerly
known as the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, is
celebrating its 40th edition with over 3,000 exhibitors across
two venues. In recognition of this milestone, JGW will also pay
tribute to 40 extraordinary individuals who have had a positive
and transformative impact on the industry and played an
integral role in the September fair’s four-decade-long journey.
“After a long wait, the world’s No.1 B2B jewellery sourcing
fair is finally returning to Hong Kong – the home of JGW. We
are honoured to bring together the global jewellery industry
once again and showcase the latest trends and innovations
in the market. Join us for this exceptional opportunity that
has been eagerly awaited by everyone in our community,” said
David Bondi, Senior Vice President of Informa Markets in Asia.
Returning to its original two-venue, product categoryspecific
format, JGW is taking place at the AsiaWorld-Expo
(AWE), where jewellery materials, such as loose diamonds,
coloured gemstones and pearls, will be exhibited from
18 to 22 September, and at the Hong Kong Convention and
Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), where finished jewellery, packaging
solutions, tools and equipment, and jewellery industry-related
technologies will be unveiled from 20 to 24 September.
Further adding excitement to JGW’s return is a series of
celebrations marking two milestones – the fair’s 40 th edition
and the 40 th anniversary of JNA, Informa Markets Jewellery’s
flagship jewellery trade publication.
“To commemorate JGW and JNA’s 40 extraordinary years,
we are pleased to announce our ‘Extraordinary 40’ Awards
programme, which is being held under the auspices of the
Jewellery World Awards. This initiative aims to pay tribute to
40 individuals who have gone above and beyond to shape
and transform our industry. These Awardees have not only
achieved remarkable success, but they have also made a
positive and lasting impact on the broader community. Through
their talent, leadership, dedication and innovation, they have
inspired and paved the way for future generations of jewellery
entrepreneurs, designers and gemstone artists,” said Celine
Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery.
The Extraordinary 40 Awardees will be invited to participate
in a series of high-profile panel discussions at JGW where
they will share their insights, experiences and expertise.
Additionally, leading organisations in different sectors will
share the latest developments in their respective fields.
"We are delighted to showcase the ruby as our anniversary
gemstone!" Lau added. "Visitors can expect to see a stunning
display of ruby exhibits, highlighting the rarity and allure of this
precious gemstone. In addition, a specially designed 'treasure
map' will guide buyers through the show floor to view the most
remarkable ruby collections."
Visitor Enquiry
E visitjgf-hk@informa.com
FAIR WEBSITE
August 2023 | 33

10 Years Ago
Time Machine: August 2013
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
4 Questions surround diamond trading scheme
4 oie ra ae eweery otfit
4 Registration hits new high for jewellery fair
4 Jewellery gang busted
4 Swarovski Gems makes jewellery fair debut
Karin Adcock shock return
to jewellery industry
In a surprise move, Karin Adcock, the
former president of Pandora Australia,
has announced her return to the Australian
jewellery industry.
In keeping with her own, and Pandora’s Danish
heritage, Adcock’s new company, House of
Brands has acquired the distribution rights to
three Danish brands – Julie Sandlau, byBiehl
and X by Trollbeads.
X by Trollbeads is a completely new
product line and differs from its normal
charm and bracelet range. But the shock
announcement is sure to cause a stir in
Australia and New Zealand, because not
only is Trollbeads a direct competitor to
Pandora, Trollbeads already has a local
supplier in RJ Scanlan & Co.
Jewellery fair celebrates past,
present and future
The Sydney International Jewellery Fair
has unveiled many highlights in its 22-year
history, and organisers say this year will
be no exception after making a number of
changes and additions to the event.
Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-
Roy told Jeweller that it was important for the
fair – which runs from Sunday 1 September to
Tuesday 3 September – to grow and evolve with
the industry. He said plans for 2013 were made
with this in mind.
“This year we have a dedicated Opal Pavilion,
Gemstones Pavilion, and a Watch & Clock
Pavilion,” he said, adding, “of course, the
presence of Swarovski Gems and the Gem
Visions 2014 official release with fashion parades
will add a new dimension not seen before.”
August 2013
ON THE COVER Designa
Editor’s Desk
4There’s life in dead stock yet
“His aim was to turn all that dead stock
into cash, no matter what he had to do,
which would mean at least some revenue
was coming in. If successful, he’ll also
have cleared up his inventory for when
the bad times break. His mantra? Cash
is king! He started by using dead stock
as promotional giveaways in the hope
of stimulating sales of newer and more
valuable stock, and has avoided the need
to discount the new items.”
Soapbox
4 Free storage ain’t what it used to be
“So, why did this CAD company want to
sting me with this additional charge? I
can only assume it was to discourage
me from taking my files to another
company. Why not just offer great
customer service so I wouldn’t be
tempted? I wasn’t even using them
exclusively, anyway!
Well, when I asked them, part of their
explanation was, “it costs money to
store these things on computers, you
know …” That’s strange because I can
buy a 4TB hard drive (that would store
680 of my average-size files) for $179."
Peter Bakker - Bakker Diamonds
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
Paying the premium
“For a global industry constantly looking
for a marketing edge, four Cs were never
going to be enough. In recent times, canny
marketers have seized on the concept,
expanding it to include five, six and even
seven Cs as they hunt for ways to entice
consumers, but interpretations of these
extra Cs differ wildly.” – Nick Fairburn
Pop star in jewellery battle
The UK Government has attempted to stop
American singer Kelly Clarkson from
taking a ring, once owned by author Jane
Austen, out of the country.
According to BBC News, the inaugural
American Idol winner purchased the
turquoise and gold ring at an auction last
year for more than £150,000 (A$259,000).
But the government, in an attempt to keep
the jewellery item in the UK, has now
placed a temporary export ban on the piece.
Culture Minister Ed Vaizey has reportedly
asked for alternative buyers to step forward
and match the price set by Clarkson. They
will have until Monday 30 September to
make an offer. The ring is believed to be one
of only three jewellery pieces owned by the
19th century author.
Jewellers caught in pricefixing
scam
A Chinese authority has imposed penalties
on five jewellery businesses in Shanghai, as
well as a local trade association, for alleged
price-fixing practices.
According to China News Service, the National
Development and Reform Commission (NDRC)
fined the retailers 10.1 million yuan (A$1.8m)
after investigations found they had manipulated
the retail prices of gold jewellery products.
The penalty is said to be equivalent to about
one per cent of the five jewellers’ annual sales.
The Shanghai Gold & Jewelry Trade
Association (GJTAS) was also reportedly fined
500,000 yuan (about A$88,800) for supporting
the price-fixing.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
34 | August 2023

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REVIEW
Gems
Game-changing Gemmologists: George Frederick Kunz
In the previous issue of Jeweller, we discussed the
legacy of René-Just Haüy, the father of modern
crystallography.
In this issue, we fast-forward 50 years from the death of
Haüy to discuss a figure likely to be familiar with modern
gemmologists and jewellers.
George Frederick Kunz was a renowned American
mineralogist, born in New York in 1856. His humble
upbringing saw him educated in public schools, until
an acceptance at The Cooper Union in New York, a
prestigious college that covers the cost of tuition.
Despite his admittance here, Kunz did not graduate
with a degree and instead channelled his hunger for
knowledge and passion for minerals into self-teaching.
Through his ventures exploring the geology of nearby
regions and exchanging specimens with overseas
dealers, Kunz had garnered a collection of more than
4,000 mineral specimens while still a teenager.
Weighing a total of two tonnes, his collection was sold to
the University of Minnesota for $US400 in 1876. Many of
these specimens remain in their collection today.
This would be the first of many notable collections put
together by Kunz, one of the most famous being the
Tiffany-Morgan Collection of Gems owned by
the American Museum of Natural History (AMNH).
At the age of 23, Kunz secured a position at Tiffany and
Company as a gemstone expert before ascending to
vice president. This was the first example of a jewellery
retailer having a gemmologist on staff.
During his years at Tiffany, where he would work until
his death in 1932, Kunz travelled the world gaining
first-hand experience with important mineral and
gemstone localities. This afforded him an unmatched
knowledge of precious gemstones and their
occurrences.
He served as head of the Department of Mines at the
Paris Exposition in 1889, the Kimberley Exposition in
1892, and the Chicago Exposition in 1893, among others.
Assisting in the investigation of American pearls in 1892-
93, Kunz even served as a special investigator for the US
Fish Commission.
Discovery
Following his extensive travels and experiences
within the world of minerals and precious gemstones,
somewhere between 1902-03 a pink variety of the
George Frederick Kunz
AMERICAN MINERALOGIST
» Born: 29 September1856
Manhattan, New York USA
» Died: 29 June 1932 (Aged 75)
New York USA
L to R: Raw Kunzite mineral from
Afghanistan; polished Kunzite stone
mineral spodumene was discovered in San Diego County,
California.
This new pink gemstone was named Kunzite in
honour of the now Dr. George Frederick Kunzm
having earned honourary degrees from Columbia
University (1898), University of Marburg (1903),
and Knox University (1907) for his contributions to
gemmology and mineralogy.
Shortly after this discovery, a known gemstone
mineral was found to occur in a previously unknown
attractive pink hue – beryl.
Kunz named the new variety Morganite, in honour of his
friend and financier that arranged the purchase of the
Tiffany-Morgan Collection of Gems for the AMNH – JP
Morgan. Morgan was a lifelong financial contributor to
the arts and sciences.
Pen-to-paper
Although minerals firmly held his heart, Kunz’s interests
and community service extended further into other
avenues of arts and science.
Throughout his life, he held membership at many
non-profit interest organisations, and served
as president and vice-president to the Museum
of Peaceful Arts, the New York Academy of
Sciences, and the American Institute of Mining and
Metallurgical Engineers.
This includes his position as president of the
association responsible for introducing the metric
system to the US, as well as his instrumental role in
establishing the ‘carat’ unit of measurement, now
used internationally.
Kunz was an avid author. He produced hundreds of
articles on minerals and precious gemstones in his
time, as well as well-known titles such as Gems and
Precious Stones of North America, The Curious Lore
of Precious Stones, The Book of the Pearl: Its History,
Art, Science and Industry, and more.
Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT began her career
in the industry at Diamonds of Distinction in 2015.
She now balances her role at the Gemmological
Association of Australia with studying geology at
the University of Queensland. Visit instagram.com/
mikaelah.egan For more information on gems and
gemmology, go to www.gem.org.au
August 2023 | 37

VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE
athan.com.au

602 / 220 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE VICTORIA 3000
(03) 9663 2321 • INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU

WORDS OF WISDOM
From the Bench
FROM THE BENCH
Creating jewellery is a complicated
art form. SAMUEL ORD explores
life for those who brave the bench.

Wisdom from the Bench | WORDS OF WISDOM
My Bench
My Bench
Roberto Mattei
Roberto Mattei Jewellery Design, Sydney NSW
FE Apprenticeship • First job Nina’s Jewellery Store, 2012–2018 Other aifiations Certificate IV in Visual Arts
Age 51 Years in Trade 30 • Training Five years of jewellery school and a few years with the masters • First job Laboro Jewellery Workshop of Roberto Mattei, Rome,
Italy 1997 • Other aifiations Degree in marketing management and communication
gget
goorlie
er
ts
to be
ecting
lon
pink
s
e
just jewellery. You can have fun with it and create
organic shapes and pieces, such as a metal spoon.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY The laser machine.
It is so helpful in reducing the ‘make’ time when
assembling pieces together.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB Seeing the reaction of
customers when they receive their special creation,
having their dream come to life.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Ensuring no
fingerprints are left from either filing or polishing.
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER One of my old
mentors would always remind me, “Don’t let
ANTHEA PLUG
SMALES JEWELLERS
"While I don't
personally wear
jewellery, I find so
much joy in seeing the
pleasure jewellery can
bring mistakes to can others."
flow on to your next piece.
mistakes get the better of you!” This is important, as
You always need to start every job fresh.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Keep a creative flow
going. Never stop creating as you do not know what
you may be able to discover.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Slicing my fingers when cutting.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE While don’t
personally wear jewellery, I find so much joy in seeing
the pleasure jewellery creations can bring
to others.
DARREN NANCARROW
DIAN DARLING JEWELLERS
“It’s about being able
to create a design that
means so much to
someone, that they
may hopefully pass
down that jewellery for
years to come.”
ROBERTO MATTEI
ROBERTO MATTEI JEWELLERY
"Use any tool and don’t
limit the way you can
use them to achieve
your final piece. And
your brain is the most
powerful tool!"
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Peridot, because it is a
relatively inexpensive stone with beautiful brightness
and variations of light green colour.
4FAVOURITE METAL Green gold [electrum]
because it was the gold of my beginnings! It gave life
when I did my castings on my early handmade floral
creations, and always give me good memories.
4FAVOURITE TOOL The hydrogen torch because
after a life spent working in between hazardous gases
and acids, the power of the hydrogen produces a
much safer, hotter and cleaner flame. It’s even easier
to set up!
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Laser engraver
because, apart from the capability to do the deepest
marking, I use it in an extreme way in cutting intricate
84 | October 2021
sheets of metal with a surreal precision. This
powerful tool allowed me to explore new boundaries
that support the kind of design that I do, which is
impossible to reach just with the conventional tools.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB The first half an hour
brainstorming with my wife about every new project
that we start!
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Wrapping a finished
product to be delivered to the customer.!
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER “One hundred
measurements, one cut,” from my Italian jewellery
schoolteacher and master jeweller Edoardo Ermini.
He wrote it on the board on the first day of class, in
1985, without explanation. Every day from then until
SIGNATURE PIECE
‘MY CITY' RING
WINNER – CAD AWARD, JAA AUSTRALASIAN
JEWELLERY AWARDS 2019
This is a dividable modular ring with customisable settings
inspired by city landscapes. It is made from 18-carat yellow,
white and rose gold, steel, titanium and osmium, set with white
diamonds and Argyle cognac diamonds.
now, I’ve lived the meaning which is ‘be extremely
precise’.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Use any tool and don’t
limit the way you can use them to achieve your
final piece. And your brain – as my current, smart
apprentice reminded me – is the most powerful tool.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Inhaled asbestos during soldering on the board
before it was banned in 1992.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It gives me a chance
to listen to what my customers want, and from
there create a raw piece of flawless design where
every piece of the pattern is made artistically and
imaginatively unique, as I believe that my customers
deserve the best.
“It’s art, and the vast
possibilities of what you
can create when you
try to master an art
form are very fulfilling”
– MATTHEW ELY –
MATTHEW ELY JEWELLERS
Behind so many successful Australian
jewellery businesses is a highly-skilled
artisan.
The professional lives of these bench jewellers
are complex and emotionally taxing.
For much of the day, jewellers must deal with
long and gruelling hours of concentration,
focusing on the finest of details and executing a
seemingly endless chain of precise techniques,
where the price of failure is disastrous.
That is without mentioning the many health risks
associated with jewellery manufacturing. These
artisans must be mindful of both their physical
and mental health while working.
Indeed, there are many ways to earn a living that
involve less stress – so what is it that motivates
these jewellers to persist?
Unsurprisingly, the answers vary greatly
depending on whom you ask.
“I don’t even wear jewellery, personally, I just find
so much joy in seeing the pleasure that jewellery
creations can bring to others,” Anthea Plug of
Smales Jewellers tells Jeweller.
“Seeing the reactions from customers they receive
their special creations and have their dreams come
to life, that’s what makes it worth doing.”
Zoë Pook, owner of Zoë Pook Jewellery in
Sydney, says that it’s an art form that appeals
to some basic, almost primitive, human desires.
“It’s one of the oldest ways for humans to
adorn themselves and to show individuality
or tribe,” she explains.
“It’s about creativity and it’s worn by everyone.
Old or young, from any culture, jewellery is
universal.”
Indeed, there are many ways to
earn a living that involve less stress
– so what is it that motivates these
jewellers to persist?
In neighbouring Engadine, Darren Nancarrow
of Dian Darling Jewellers says that the greatest
reward he derives from manufacturing is
knowing that he is contributing to family history.
“It’s about being able to create a design that
means so much to someone, that they may
hopefully pass down that jewellery for years to
come,” he explains.
“That’s definitely the best part of the job, the
happy face of a customer.”
Why do you do it?
For others, jewellery manufacturing presents a
deeply enjoyable ‘mental puzzle’ where the end
result of successfully rising to a series of cognitive
challenges is a memorable piece of artwork.
“It’s art, and the vast possibilities of what you can
create when you try to master an art form are
very fulfilling,” Jo Makohin of Simon West Fine
Jewellery says.
“I love looking at a job and working out how to
make it. I enjoy the challenge of making something
new and different. I love the conceptual struggle of
lifting an idea off the page and making it better. And
there’s always more to learn.”
The challenge of taking a sketch or computer
design and transforming it into a physical
adornment is the factor many bench jewellers
say they find deeply motivating.
Creating jewellery appeals to the logical faculties
of craftsmen the same way solving a crime
appeals to some detectives, or completing a
jigsaw puzzle scratches that certain ‘mental itch’
on a rainy day.
Learning to see tasks from this logically ‘stepby-step’
perspective is also one of the most
common pieces of advice that jewellers offer
apprentices.
42 | August 2023

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August 2023 | 43

DAVID STEPHENSON
HOLLOWAY DIAMONDS
RICK SOUTHWICK
RICK SOUTHWICK JEWELLER
ELEANOR HAWKE
ABRECHT BIRD
“Seeing the reactions
from customers when
they receive their
special creations and
have their dreams
come to life, that’s what
makes it worth doing.”
“You should enjoy
what you do. For
me, I get a sense
of achievement in
completing a piece
that a client is
happy with.”
“The bench is an
extension of the
jeweller, so it should
be ergonomically set
up for ease of use and
fluidity.”
“I love the idea of
sketching a rough idea
for an item of jewellery
and watching a simple
bar of gold transform
into something
spectacular.”
– ZOË POOK –
ZOË POOK JEWELLERY
With more than 30 years of experience in the
trade, David Stephenson of Holloway Diamonds
in Brighton has seen it all.
“You need to be able to divide the biggest jobs
into small challenges,” he explains.
“You should enjoy what you do. For me, I get
a sense of achievement in completing a piece
that a client is happy with. There’s always
a sense of satisfaction that comes with
completing quality jewellery.”
The importance of breaking a task down into
smaller challenges is passed on to apprentices
at an early stage in their education and it’s
wisdom that even those relatively new to the
profession, such as Eleanor Hawke of Abrecht
Bird, are accustomed to.
“I love the idea of sketching a rough idea for an
item of jewellery and watching a simple bar of
gold transform into something spectacular,”
confesses Hawke.
“If a job looks complicated and daunting
as a whole, you break it down into smaller
components. Everything is made up of shapes
that appear more complex than they are.”
She adds: “Presenting customers with their
new item of jewellery and seeing the joy in their
faces makes it all worthwhile.”
There tend to be two paths to the bench for
jewellers. For some, it’s a profession that simply
‘seems right’ – whether it be because of a
passion for gemstones, the enjoyment derived
from working their hands, or the pleasure of
dealing with satisfied customers.
The challenge of taking a sketch or
computer design and transforming it
into a physical adornment is the factor
many bench jewellers say they find
deeply motivating.
For others, it’s a family affair – something
preordained from birth as parents or
grandparents are already committed
to the industry.
The latter applies to Hawke – the greatgranddaughter
of the founder of House of
Hawke, one of Australia’s largest jewellery
manufacturing companies.
It’s a similar story for Leon Raper of the Australian
Diamond Company in Melbourne, who began
working in jewellery as an apprentice in South
Africa in the early 1980s.
“It’s in my blood!” he proudly tells Jeweller.
“My father was a diamond cutter and polisher
and from a very young age, I would go with him
when he visited various people in the industry.
“That is how I was exposed to the diamond and
jewellery business. For me, the best part of
the job is mastering a technique that you once
found difficult.”
Tortured artists
The myth of the ‘tortured artist’ has been
extensively debated in recent years. Many have
asked the question: is pain and suffering really
required to create great art?
History contains many examples of such a
figure. Vincent Van Gogh painted The Starry
Night during a period of emotional distraught.
John Lennon and Paul McCartney forged their
musical partnership following a significant
death in their respective families. John Milton
wrote Paradise Lost immediately after the loss
of his wife.
It’s been said that the greatest art reflects
humanity and that humanity’s greatest
virtue is overcoming adversity.
Another Australian jewellery store that
44 | August 2023

7-year apprenticeship to obtain New Zealand Technical Certificate in Metalsmithing and Jewellery F
De Beers diamond qualifications, and 34 years of on-the-job t
LEON RAPER
AUSTRALIAN DIAMOND COMPANY
JIM GEORGE
ROHAN JEWELLERS
COSIMO MIRACHI
COSIMO JEWELLERY
“For me, the best part
of the job is mastering
a technique that you
once found difficult.”
“I think a lot of
jewellers would agree
that finding enough
time in each day to
get everything done is
sometimes impossible.”
“The deadlines, the
pressure, it’s all part
of what pushes me to
achieve perfection.”
"Everyday is different,
every customer is unique,
and every piece has its
own unique challenges."
– ANDY MC GEE –
STELIOS JEWELLERS
embodies the importance of family in
business is Bassil Creations in Sydney,
where a father-son duo knows all too well
that creating jewellery can be a mentally and
physically taxing experience.
“Sitting down for too long can be the biggest
health risk for any jeweller,” explains Sergio
Bassil.
“It’s important to get up sometimes and move
around and stretch the body. Forgetting to
take a break and stretch when working on a
significant piece that requires many hours at the
bench can be a real problem.”
Sergio’s son, Harry, agrees with his father and
says that he has had to learn to overcome this
challenge outside of work hours.
“Sitting down for a long number of hours
without much movement isn’t going for anybody.
It’s important to do some daily exercise after
work,” he says.
“When growing up I always saw my father
creating jewellery and this always intrigued me.
I used to sit on his bench and play around with
the tools. From the first time I started working
with my father, I knew this was my passion.”
“I love the concept of bringing a customer’s
jewellery piece to reality.”
Located in Sydney, Rick Southwick Bespoke
Jeweller specialises in unique designs for
special occasions. Owner Rick Southwick
echoes the sentiments of the Bassils and says
that remaining active is vital.
“Posture is the key to longevity. The bench
is an extension of the jeweller, so it should
be ergonomically set up for ease of use and
fluidity,” he explains.
It’s been said that the greatest art reflects
humanity and that humanity’s greatest
virtue is overcoming adversity.
“Jewellery has given me a career spanning
the globe, learning Victorian jewellery-making
skills in London and the intricacies of style and
proportion in Sydney, and has led me to tap into
my own ‘creative well’. I couldn’t imagine doing
anything else.”
Cosimo Mirachi is also based in Sydney and
says that his concern relates more to the
materials required to make exquisite jewellery.
“Breathing in chemicals is a big one for me. I try
to use non-toxic chemicals where possible and
drink plenty of water while working,” he says.
SIGNATURE PIECE
“With that said, I love all the challenges of
creating jewellery. The deadlines, the
pressure, it’s all part of what pushes me
to achieve perfection.”
‘LUGGER’ BROOCH
It’s a similar story for 72-year-old Jim George, a
bench jeweller at Rohan Jewellers in Perth.
“The polishing dust and acid fumes we have all
inhaled at one time or another is a major health
concern. I wear a mask regularly,” he advises.
“I think a lot of jewellers would agree that
finding enough time in each day to get
everything done is sometimes impossible.”
We’re all in this together
While bench jewellers are notoriously private
people who enjoy keeping to themselves, few
are ever truly ‘self-taught’.
Indeed, while the number of jewellers who have
constructed most of their technical knowledge
from purely online resources has increased in
recent years, that information doesn’t just appear
on the internet on its own!
Beyond the jewellers who are happy to share what
they’ve learned online; apprenticeship programs
remain vital to introducing the future leaders of
the industry to the craft.
For those already in the business, sometimes
all that’s needed is a helpful pointer from a
August 2023 | 45

Wisdom from the Bench | WORDS OF WISDOM
Troy O’Brien
Troy O’Brien Jewellery, Sydney NSW
My Bench
Age 46 Years in Trade 31 • Training Apprenticeship through TAFE Ultimo; I apprenticed at Distell International with Albert and Peter Grech and with my uncle Peter Quinn
First job Distell International, 1990 • Other aifiations 31 years of on-the-bench training, laser welding, and member of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia
MARK ALEXANDER CROOKS
MARK ALEXANDER JEWELLERY
“A willingness to
work together
and cherish these
skills will go a long
way to building
the industry and
culture within
Australia.”
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Tourmaline, because
of the diverse range of colours! Tourmaline is a
gemstone of such high quality and diversity, from the
exceptionally rare Paraìba tourmaline to the uniquely
beautiful bi-colour tourmalines.
Each gemstone holds its own unique beauty and
rarity, which makes them highly valued by discerning
collectors. I love sourcing tourmalines and genuinely
get excited by their divine colour and beauty.
4FAVOURITE METAL Platinum – the only reason
people don’t use it is usually because of the higher
cost but, for me, this is far outweighed by the benefits
of its high lustre and longevity.
It has a nice weighty feel, giving a true sense of luxury
and quality that, for me, makes it second to none.
TROY O'BRIEN
TROY O'BRIEN JEWELLERY
"Keep the stress
behind the scenes! Be
patient, smile, always
work hard and keep
honing your skills. It is
different every day. "
4FAVOURITE TOOL My laser. It makes all sorts of
repairs, assembly of intricate parts, welding platinum,
and repairing porosity easier and is a well-valued
investment in my workshop.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY My steamer. It’s not
exactly a new tool, but I went without one for many
years – and now I could not live without it!
4BEST PART OF THE JOB This is an obvious answer,
but it is honestly my customers’ joy in seeing a piece
of jewellery I have created just for them. It never gets
old for me.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Dealing with manky
earrings, licked rings, and gross watches!
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER My old boss and
JO MAKOHIN
SIMON WEST FINE JEWELLERY
SIGNATURE PIECE
“It’s art, and the vast
possibilities of what
you can create when
you try to master
an art form are very
fullling”
ANIMAL-INSPIRED PENDANT
STOCK PIECE
I don’t have one signature piece – many pieces I have made over
the years have become favourites! I do enjoy creating a range of
jewellery based on animals, creatures, and marine life, and that
has become a ‘bespoke’ style for the store. I hope that every piece
I create for my customers becomes a ‘signature’ piece for them
and an heirloom of the future.
good friend Albert Grech always taught me to expect
the unexpected.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Keep the stress behind
the scenes! Be patient, smile, always work hard and
keep honing your skills.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH Being
aware of your posture and your eyes; always take
breaks and stretch your back as well as your eyes.
Be careful of what you are breathing in, too. We work
with many chemicals, abrasives, and polish dust, so
try to protect yourself from these as best as possible.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It is different every
day. The ability we have to turn raw materials into
beautiful, loved pieces that become part of someone’s
life memories is a wonderful feeling.
“
”
– RICHELE PERKS –
STEPHEN DIBBS JEWELLERS
80 | November 2021
fellow jeweller.
“Perfection is impossible, but we should always
strive to attain it in what we do,” explains Mark
Draper of Bell & Brunt.
“Failure is a critical part of the manufacturing
process, it’s how we become better jewellers.”
Stephen Dickins of London Court in Perth says
that whether you’re self-taught or well-trained,
all that matters is a thirst for knowledge.
“Just because you haven’t been shown how to
do something, it doesn’t mean you can’t do it.
I’m self-taught in a lot of things, and I’m
always asking questions to improve my skills,”
he explains.
With more than 50 years of experience working
with jewellery, William Whiting of Archer &
Holland Jewellers has seen it all and highlights
the importance of time management.
“You should treat every piece of jewellery you
are working on as if it’s your own,” he says.
“When you’re manufacturing, don’t waste time
on things that may not be necessary.”
It was mentioned earlier that jewellery
presents artisans with an addictive test
of their logical skills or a mental puzzle
that must be completed.
Matthew Alexander Crooks, owner of Matthew
Alexander Jewellery in Queensland, says
that understanding this process is the key to
conquering any challenge.
“During my apprenticeship, my boss instilled a
belief in me to trust in my expertise and strive to
build my problem-solving ability. When making a
piece, before my boss would answer a question,
I was asked what I thought,” he reflects.
“This lesson is important for custom handmade
designs, as you are constantly problem-solving.”
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder
with jewellery, and a custom piece can
serve as a creative outlet for both the
jeweller and the customer.
“This one lesson has not only greatly shaped
the way I run my business but is also one of the
greatest life lessons I have learned to date!”
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder with
jewellery, and a custom piece can serve as a
creative outlet for both the jeweller and the
customer.
Crooks says that passing on the skills and
traditions which make such creations possible
should be paramount for the industry.
“We need to work hard to keep handmanufacturing
skills alive. A willingness to work
together and cherish these skills will go a long
way to building the industry and culture within
Australia,” he says.
“This can only benefit those passionate about
the trade and its future. If made well, any
piece of jewellery can be passed down through
generations as a representation of the past and
a historical artefact.”
Indeed, while many bench jewellers share
overlapping qualities and characteristics, there
are always those who break the mould.
For the dozens of committed technicians who
enjoy nothing more than peace and quiet while
working at the bench, there are also boisterous
artists who love nothing more than interacting
with customers.
What these characters all seem to share is a
passion for overcoming the mental challenges
associated with creating fine jewellery, while
also bringing joy to the lives of their customers
by transforming dreams into reality.
46 | August 2023

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A FOCUS ON INFLUENCE
Celebrity Sway
FACT OR FICTION?
SAMUEL ORD investigates the influence of celebrities on
the jewellery industry and attempts to determine whether
or not this impacts consumer purchasing patterns.

Celebrity Sway | A FOCUS ON INFLUENCE
Bulgari x
Zendaya 2023
Tiffany & Co x
Hailey Beiber
Tiffany & Co x
Gal Gadot 2023
I
n the world of fashion, great significance is
afforded to the stylings of celebrities and
influential figures in popular culture – and the
jewellery industry is no exception to this phenomenon.
Each day industry figures, journalists, and dedicated
consumers pour over the adornments of the stars of
runways, red carpets, and awards shows hoping to
discern what will be in vogue in the months to come.
Indeed, as the Villioti Fashion Institute states: “The
relationship between celebrities and fashion trends is
very intertwined with many well-known personalities
either setting the trends with their unique style or
making existing designs more mainstream as fans
flock to emulate the look.”
“Without a doubt, the red carpet at the annual awards
ceremonies – most notably the Oscars and Golden Globes
– is a particularly important place for fashion trendsetting.
While the runway might be where the year’s haute couture
is revealed, the red carpet is where these trends are made
more accessible to the general public.”
But do they?
For many, this sentiment of celebrity significance is accepted
as a sort of universal truth.
Indeed, few have ever stopped to ask an important question:
do any of these popular figures really influence the
purchasing decisions of the majority of everyday customers?
An individual who has taken pause to question the
importance of celebrity jewellery trends is Amber
Hodgman of Medley Jewellery in Brisbane.
“Celebrity style definitely has some influence in the
purchasing decisions that we see from our customers;
however, I think it’s at a much smaller scale than what is
marketed,” she tells Jeweller.
Hodgman suggests that trends ‘trickle down’ to
consumers from red carpets, runways, and high-end
photoshoots which leads to inspiration in terms of style.
It would seem that the degree to which this inspiration
AT THE FRONTLINE
Experience Speaks
AMBER HODGMAN
MEDLEY JEWELLERY
"Celebrity style definitely
has some influence in the
purchasing decisions that
we see from our customers;
however, I think it’s at a
much smaller scale than what
is marketed."
JUSTIN LINNEY
LINNEY’S
"Celebrities still have an impact
on the older demographic of
jewellery buyers; however, I
would argue to a lesser extent."
GEORGINA DEGREEF
GEORGINA DUNN JEWELLERY
"My customers are not looking
for high-end jewellery from me,
they are looking for practical
everyday handmade jewellery
which is not the kind of thing
which is worn on the red carpet.”
ends up impacting the final decision-making behind the
final purchase remains up for debate.
Another sceptic is Simone Walsh, a South Australian jeweller
who has been creating handmade gold and silver pieces
featuring a variety of gemstones for more than 20 years.
“We have actually asked our customers about this in the past
and they've told us that celebrities have very little influence in
terms of what they like to wear,” she explains.
“We're a fairly niche jewellery brand and we appeal to
people who like jewellery that's somewhat different to
the mainstream, so perhaps our customers are a bit
unusual in that regard.”
Unattainable?
While she remains sceptical about the overall level of
influence celebrities wield, Hodgman was able to point to
a few specific examples where her business has benefited
from the stylings of celebrities.
She suggested that the success of her dome hoops and
bold paperclip necklace lines was rooted in the popularity
of chunky gold hoop earrings worn by Bella Hadid and
Kendall Jenner, while Hailey Bieber has been known to
wear layered necklaces.
With that in mind, Hodgman said that there are more
important reasons to be critical of celebrity influence.
“Celebrities often wear jewellery that is simply unattainable.
These expensive pieces may drive status for the upper
echelons of society but for a brand like Medley that strives to
achieve both style and affordability, we find celebrity trends
don’t always resonate with our customers and subsequently
don’t drive sales,” she says.
“The correlation between what celebrities wear and what we
sell is minimal. Some trends are not celebrity driven. These
purchasing trends are more related to sentimental jewellery
such as our engravable range, pieces often bought as gifts
for a loved one or oneself as a forever-piece.”
Georgina Degreef, the owner of Georgina Dunn Jewellery,
agrees with Hodgman and says that the high-end nature of
the jewellery that commonly appears on runways is of little
50 | August 2023

Tiffany & Co x
Anja Taylor-Joy 2023
Jacob & Co. x
Pharrell
Louis Vuitton x
Ana de Armas 2023
relevance to her customers.
“My customers are not looking for high-end jewellery
from me, they are looking for practical everyday
handmade jewellery which is not the kind of thing which
is worn on the red carpet,” she explains.
“I personally don’t look to celebrities when designing
my jewellery so I know that my jewellery isn’t influenced
by them. I don’t really think of myself as a jeweller who
creates on-trend jewellery, I personally try to create
classic modern jewellery.”
Subconscious?
Others have suggested that celebrities possess an
‘understated’ or subconscious impact on purchasing
decisions.
These jewellers believe that the credit that is afforded to
figures in popular media may be overstated; however, it still
exists all the same.
"Few have ever stopped to ask an important
question: do any of these popular figures really
influence the purchasing decisions of the majority
of everyday customers?"
Sydney-based Enesea was launched in 2019 and
founder Nikki Elrich says that the desire to general
public’s desire to emulate the leading men and women
of Hollywood is still profound.
“I do think celebrities are influential on customers, but
perhaps more indirectly,” she tells Jeweller.
“On the red carpet celebrities are often seen wearing
pieces from upcoming collections which showcase
future trends from top designers in the industry.
“Often pieces are then seen on influencers and
incorporated into their own personal style which
creates demand on social media for that piece or
IRENE DEUTSCH
FAIRFAX & ROBERTS
"There have been instances
where a celebrity or
influencer has worn our
jewellery and a customer has
enquired about the piece
after having seen it on social
media or through the press."
SIMONE WALSH
SIMONE WALSH DESIGNS
"We have actually asked our
customers about this in the
past and they've told us that
celebrities have very little
influence in terms of what
they like to wear."
FIONA PLATJE
PRECIOUS METALS GROUP
"Celebrities have always served
as trendsetters and style icons
with their choices in fashion,
accessories and jewellery."
a piece inspired by that look or trend.”
Elrich says that this phenomenon has directly impacted her
business, which specialises in one-of-a-kind luxury pieces.
“Whenever an influencer posts an Enesea piece we see a
spike in sales for that particular item,” she reveals.
“Celebrities and influencers wearing a certain brand or
style of jewellery definitely give the business or brand more
‘credibility’ in the eyes of consumers.”
This perspective is shared by Hayley Everett, marketing
manager of Everett Brookes Jewellers in Adelaide.
Everett says that the impact of jewellery worn at highprofile
events lies ‘beneath the surface’.
“As someone in the jewellery marketing industry, I think a
lot of consumers reject the idea that celebrities and public
figures influence what we choose to buy,” she says.
“However, whether consciously or not, we’ve been subject
to trends and styles that high-profile celebrities determine.”
Everett points to the recent example of the wedding of
Sofia Richie to Elliot Grainge and the attention given to
her minimalistic approach to her engagement and
wedding day jewellery.
She also considered classic examples such as Jackie
Kennedy’s Moi Et Toi engagement ring, which Everett says
still gets referenced weekly within the jewellery industry.
Age is more than just a number
Others questioned by Jeweller on this matter were quick to
suggest that when it comes to celebrity influence, the age
of the consumer is the defining factor. That is they are more
likely to have some sway over younger consumers.
Indeed, for better or worse celebrities have a powerful
impact on how teenagers in particular view themselves and
how they see the world.
This impact has been amplified in the past decade with the
increasing significance of social media platforms.
Perth jeweller James Andrews says that in his dealings
with customers, it’s clear that the younger crowds are
August 2023 | 51

Bulgari x
Lisa, Blackpink
Tiffany & Co x
Beyoncé
Louis Vuitton x
Cate Blanchett
Tiffany & Co x
Anja Taylor Joy
those most likely to
attempt to emulate the
style of popular figures.
“It's certainly only a specific age
group. Popular culture will continue
to influence a certain age group; however, we
strongly believe these trends are always short-lived,”
he tells Jeweller.
“Young people are quick to change to something new again,
especially due to over-saturation through all social media.
“With engagement rings for example, we strongly
believe natural diamonds will always be the leading
choice and so far popular culture – led by figures such
as Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez – are reinforcing this by
their choices in jewellery.”
Linney’s is the largest diamond jewellery store in Perth,
with an expansive collection of engagement rings,
pendants, and earrings.
Creative director Justin Linney pays close attention to
jewellery trends and surprisingly, he reports the same
findings as Andrews.
“Celebrities have a massive impact on consumer trends
when it comes to the younger demographic of jewellery
buyers. Some key examples are Emily Ratajkowski’s Toi
Et Moi and the Blake Lively oval cut engagement ring
design,” he suggests.
“Celebrities still have an impact on the older
demographic of jewellery buyers; however, I would
argue to a lesser extent.
“One example would be the royal engagement of Kate
Middleton and her blue sapphire ring which caused a
spike in blue sapphire rings. I was actually interviewed
for television at the time being asked if I thought it would
impact on trends.”
Linney and Andrews both agreed that the impact of
social media was defining factor in the susceptibility of
younger audiences.
“Digital media is making these popular rings constantly
THE IMPACT
Inspire & Influence
NATASHA CHIPMAN
NATASHA SCHWEITZER
"For our brand, we look at
celebrities as more of a branding
exercise rather than a direct
sales driver.”
NIKKI ELRICH
ENESEA
"Often pieces are then seen on
influencers and incorporated
into their own personal style
which creates demand on social
media for that piece or a piece
inspired by that look or trend."
SHWETA KHAN
STARFIRE JEWELLERY
"Celebrities always set the
trends for many jewellery styles.
All it takes sometimes is for
one celebrity to wear a certain
gemstone and the popularity
goes through the roof."
appear on various platforms and in some cases the trends
almost become the norm, as was the case with demand for
oval cut diamonds following the Blake Lively engagement,”
Linney says.
Powerful tool
Not all the jewellers contacted during the research for
this story expressed scepticism over the influence of
celebrities – in fact, many said these endorsements
were vital to their business.
The staff at Sydney-based Fairfax & Roberts takes
tremendous pride in the 165-year history of the business.
Managing director Irene Deutsch says that her business
has seen the benefits of engaging directly with influential
celebrities.
"Others have suggested that celebrities
possess an ‘understated’ or subconscious
impact on purchasing decisions."
“There have been instances where a celebrity or influencer
has worn our jewellery and a customer has enquired about
the piece after having seen it on social media or through the
press,” she tells Jeweller.
“Fairfax & Roberts is the exclusive retailer of David Yurman
here in Australia and their current campaign featuring
Scarlett Johansson and Shawn Mendes most definitely
drives increased brand awareness on a global scale.”
It’s a similar story for Natasha Chipman, owner of Natasha
Schweitzer with stores in Sydney, Brisbane, and Melbourne.
“Natasha Schweitzer jewellery is frequently worn by
celebrities - most recently Taylor Swift, Katie Holmes,
and Miranda Kerr,” she says.
“For our brand, we look at celebrities as more of a
branding exercise rather than a direct sales driver.”
She added: “In the past month we have had some of our
signature pieces worn by celebrities including Taylor
52 | August 2023

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au
August 2023 | 53

Messika x
Kendall Jenner
Swift and Katie Holmes, and while those placements did
absolutely result in higher sales of those styles, we are
really more focused on creating more unique pieces that
are identifiable as Natasha Schweitzer and watching our
brand become recognisable across the globe.”
Deutsch says that what matters is collaborative projects
with people who align the values of the brand or business.
“It is not only celebrities that drive our sales but our
customers. There is a lot of business generated through
word of mouth - we have a highly regarded reputation for
our workmanship and quality,” she explains.
“With this in mind, our customers will recommend us
to friends and also pass the pieces down through the
generations. We are proud to create meaningful pieces for
the children and grandchildren of our customers - it is a
very special and meaningful experience for them and us.”
"Many researchers have concluded that consumer
behaviour is determined by three core factors:
psychological, personal and social"
Based in New Zealand, Fiona Platje is the managing
director of Precious Metals Group. She believes that the
importance of celebrities in style and fashion is a fact of life.
“Celebrities have always served as trendsetters and
style icons with their choices in fashion, accessories and
jewellery,” she tells Jeweller.
Although a lot of the pieces they are wearing are
aspirational and often unattainable to the everyday
person, a small percentage of our customers - generally
the early adopters and trendsetters - are influenced to
seek out similar styles to emulate those pieces.”
Platje points to the example of Harry Styles leading the
resurgence of pearl jewellery for men as an example of
this phenomenon in action.
She also agrees with those who suggest that social
THE IMPACT
Inspire & Influence
ROBERT CIALDINI
AMERICAN PSYCHOLOGIST
"Often we don’t realize
that our attitude toward
something has been
influenced by the number of
times we have been exposed
to it in the past."
HAYLEY EVERETT
EVERETT BROOKES
"As someone in the jewellery
marketing industry, I think a
lot of consumers reject the
idea that celebrities and public
figures influence what we
choose to buy."
JAMES ANDREWS
JAMES ANDREWS JEWELLERS
"Young people are quick to
change to something new again,
especially due to over-saturation
through all social media.”
media is an important factor to consider.
“Generally, we are seeing more pull coming from local
influencers. Often considered ‘everyday people’ their
fashion look is often more relatable and attainable,” she
explains.
“They shop in familiar places sourcing carefully curated
pieces which are often ‘diluted’ versions of those being
worn by celebrities making them more affordable and
appropriate for everyday wear.”
What does the science say?
It is easy to see why jewellery retailers place value on a
thorough understanding of consumer purchasing patterns.
The connection between a better understanding of a
customer’s decision-making process and improved
sales is straightforward.
With that said many researchers have concluded that
consumer behaviour is determined by three core factors.
• Psychological factors: Mental perceptions and attitude.
• Personal factors: Age, culture, profession, and
background each play a role in forming interests.
• Social factors: Income, education, and social class are
important influences.
This understanding is strengthened by examining the
science behind persuasion, perhaps best documented
by Robert Cialdini in his book Influence: The Psychology
of Persuasion.
Cialdini suggests that persuasion is driven by six factors
- reciprocity, commitment, consensus, authority, liking,
and scarcity.
When attempting to determine the significance of
celebrity influence in jewellery sales through this lens,
three of the six factors appear to be at play.
Authority: Credible Individuals and experts in their fields
are more influential and persuasive than those who are not.
Credibility is one of the core building blocks of trust
54 | August 2023

STARS IN THEIR EYES
Iconic Engagement Rings
HEIRLOOM &
SAPPHIRES
Large sapphire halo rings
surged in popularity
when Kate Middleton was
proposed to with the ring
of late Princess Diana of
Wales. Around this time
was when alternative
gemstone rings also
increased in popularity,
likewise heirloom jewellery.
KATE, DUCHESS
OF CAMBRIDGE
TOI-ET-MOI
Toi-et-moi (you and me)
is a ring style where two
large centre stones cross
over to create the look
of an 'embrace'. Ariana
Grandé, Megan Fox and
Emily Ratajowski have all
been seen with variations
of this trend, partnering
diamonds with another
alternative gemstone.
JACKIE KENNEDY
COLOUR DIAMONDS
A colourful large
centrestone diamond
makes an impact!
Bringing attention to
pink diamonds with
her first engagement
ring from Ben Affleck,
Jennifer Lopez made
headlines again, with
a green diamond
engagement ring,
spiking a global interest
in these rare stones.
JENNIFER LOPEZ
TIMELESS SIMIPLICITY
Timeless simplicity –
Sofia Richie's traditional
engagement ring
featuring a simple
emerald-cut white
diamond cenrestone
is a welcome ode to
practical tradition.
SOFIA RICHIE
DOUBLE-DIGIT CARATS
A-lister size centrestones
are always in style.
From Grace Kelly and
Elizabeth Taylor to
Beyoncé and Paris Hilton,
double-digit carats will
always turn heads and be
a mainstay among those
with deep pockets and
stars in their eyes.
BEYONCÉ
SHIMMERING OVALS
Large oval cut diamond
sales increased when the
likes of Hailey Bieber and
Blake Lively were seen
sporting the solitaire
designs. With a wider
surface area, it can look
larger than a round cut of
the same carat weight.
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PinkKimberley.com.au
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56
POIX &

6
TROY
THE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR
ICC SYDNEY-DARLING HARBOUR
THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY FAIR
CARRIAGEWORKS - EVERLEIGH

Celebrity Sway | A FOCUS ON INFLUENCE
Mikimoto x
Comme des Garçons
Moussaieff x
Michelle Yeoh
Harry Styles
Autore Moda
Vivienne Westwood x
Timothée Chalamet
and when celebrities wear adornments from select
jewellers, the credibility of these businesses and brands
among consumers who value the fashion choices of said
celebrities is increased.
Liking: It may seem like a trivial observation at first;
however, it’s important all the same – we are more likely
to be influenced and persuaded by those we favour.
If an artist, movie star, or musician produces art that a
consumer likes, they are subconsciously likely to favour
their choices in style too because of these pre-existing
positive associations.
Scarcity: The less of something there is, the more people
tend to want it.
This holds for experiences as well as for material
products such as jewellery.
Many of the jewellers contacted for this story stated that
the unattainable nature of the jewellery worn by highprofile
figures may suggest that celebrities wield little
influence over everyday consumers.
While that may be true – few can afford the latest
from Bulgari, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and
Cartier – that doesn’t mean these consumers don’t
desire this jewellery.
The elusive and expensive nature of this jewellery,
combined with the lack of supply, taps deeply into the
appeal of scarcity to consumers.
Consensus: Humans are social animals and generally
speaking, believe that it’s important to conform to the
norms of any given social group.
This means that when it comes to decision-making,
we often look around us to see what others are doing
before deciding. We see this factor in action with
marketing all the time.
“9/10 dentists recommend Colgate” is often said in
advertising for toothpaste. “2.2 million Australians
choose to bank with us” suggests Bendigo Bank.
When consumers see jewellery worn by those identified
as aspirational figures, it leads to increased credibility for
JOINING FORCES
Harnessing Influence
BULGARI
» Anna Hathaway
» Lisa (Blackpink)
» Priyanka Chopra
» Zendaya
CARTIER
» Jisoo (Blackpink)
» V (Tae-Hyung - BTS)
» Vanessa Kirby
CHOPARD
» Julia Roberts
DAVID YURMAN
» Henry Golding
» Scarlett Johansson
» Shawn Mendez
DE BEERS
» Lupita Nyong’o
MESSIKA
» Kendall Jenner
» Kate Moss
» Gigi Hadid
LOUIS VUITTON
» Ana De Armas
» Cate Blanchett
» Chloe Grace Moretz
» J-Hope (BTS)
LVMH
» Pharrell Williams
TIFFANY & CO
» Beyoncé
» Hailey Bieber
» Jimin (BTS)
» Rosé
» Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
» Zoe Kravitz
these styles, brands, and businesses.
What did we learn?
It’s fair to say that while the jewellery worn by celebrities
is usually unattainable for the average consumer,
With that said, it's difficult to argue against the appeal of
marketing through popular culture - particularly when it
comes to younger consumers.
Perhaps an overlooked consideration in this debate is the
way certain jewellery pieces have stood the test of time and
remain popular when worn by the ‘right’ person.
Princess Diana’s Swan Lake pearl jewellery was recently
put up for auction and establishing a pre-sale estimate
was described as difficult.
This was because of the powerful cultural impact of the
jewellery compared with similar collections without the
same history.
"It’s fair to say that while the jewellery worn by
celebrities is usually unattainable for the average
consumer, it’s difficult to argue against the appeal
of marketing through popular culture."
“I still get asked about the Princess Diana ring all the
time – that gorgeous sapphire and diamond ring,” reveals
Shweta Khan, owner of Starfire Jewellery in Brisbane.
“Celebrities always set the trends for many jewellery
styles. All it takes sometimes is for one celebrity to wear a
certain gemstone and the popularity goes through the roof.”
Whether or not this influence – be it overt or subconscious –
can be utilised by retailers remains up for debate.
Long before the invention of GPS technology, sailors
once used stars in the night sky to navigate voyages
across the ocean.
For now, it seems likely that the jewellery industry will
continue to rely on the red-carpet stars around the world
to - hopefully- forecast and influence future trends.
58 | August 2023

A LOOK TO LOVE
Styles to Watch
CASUAL HIGH-SOCIETY
Featuring in David Yurman's
campaign, Scarlett Johanssen
hones a casual high-society
style, showcasing Yurman's
iconic designs that can go
from brunch to evening
cocktail. Johanssen's image
appeals to the professional
women with a classic style
who opts for versatility over
statement pieces.
SCARLETT JOHANSSEN
TROPICAL BOHO
David Yurman's campaign
featuring Shawn
Mendes showcases
casual mens' jewellery
that can be layered to
suit the younger male
demographic who may
prefer customising their
own style.
SHAWN MENDES
CHAIN, CHAIN, CHAIN
While others opt for
delicate light layering
of chains, Billie Eilish
has gone the opposite
direction. Known for
layering plenty of mixed
metals and chains of all
boldness and bling, Eilish's
style preferences are
mimicked and admired by
a large following.
BILLIE EILISH
CREATIVE VISIONARY
Pharrell is no stranger
to bling – as LVMH's
creative director, his
style is often hailed as
being visionary. Amongst
the first to popularise
pearls for men, Pharrell
is a popular reference
for men's jewellery.
DEADLY CUTE
Former Bond girl Ana
de Armas inspired the
jewellery world by first
being the ambassador
to the Natural Diamond
Council, and recently
modelling Louis Vuitton's
high jewellery range.
PLAY & REBEL
Harry Styles' bold
gender-bending fashion
selections have become
an inspiration for couture
designers worldwide.
Embodying Gen-Z's
playful and rebellious
streak, his accessory
choices vary from
coquettish to extravagant.
PHARRELL
ANA DE ARMAS
HARRY STYLES
EPOCA COLLECTION
SKELETON AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT. WR 100m
August Phone.03 2023 | 9553 377759
Email:info@westendcollection.com.au
www.westendcollection.com.au

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60 | August 2023
PO Box 136
Nerang
Queensland 4211

MANAGEMENT FEATURE
Golden Rules
JEWELLER’S
MANAGEMENT
MASTERCLASS
Sometimes in business, avoiding change can be the greatest risk
of all. SAMUEL ORD reviews the insights of five business experts
heading into the second half of 2023.
It’s been a mixed bag for the Australian
jewellery trade this year, with successful
industry gatherings and exciting product
launches juxtaposed against fears around
consumer confidence and the impact of rising
cost-of-living pressures.
Whether the economic pundits are right or
wrong, it’s always worthwhile refreshing your
understanding of the fundamentals of running a
successful business.
By brushing up in areas such as communication
with staff, reviewing your costs, and planning for
the future, you can ensure that your business is
on the right track.
To ensure that you not only survive but thrive in
the months and years to come, Jeweller has
consulted five business experts to uncover the keys
to strong management while dark economic clouds
loom ahead.
Lesson #1 – Review, but don’t slash!
When times are tough it’s important to examine
business processes and revisit costs; however, all
too often managers take the easy road and begin to
‘slash and burn’ on expenditures which are crucial
for strong sales performance.
In a difficult economy, it’s common for business
owners to begin ‘mismanaging’ unprovoked. Brian
Jeffrey of Quintarra Consulting says that this is an
easily avoided issue.
“Larger companies headed by non-marketing
people, such as an accountant, or an engineer, often
use difficult trading periods to justify cost-cutting.
They terminate training, advertising, staff - anything
else they see as a cost to the company. This is a
short-sighted view,” Jeffrey explains.
“The problem with cutting costs on advertising,
as an example, is that it diminishes visibility in the
marketplace. It stops people buying and, as a result,
revenue drops further. The powers at the top -
seeing less revenue - make even more cuts and the
downward spiral goes on.”
When the cost-cutting process turns into
downsizing, the wrong people are often released,
particularly when the temptation is to fire highly
paid sales staff. However, these staff are usually
well paid because they have a track record of
delivering results – and that’s who you need
when times are tough.
“If you see tough times on the horizon, plan ahead
and be prepared to make difficult decisions when
needed if you expect to come out safe on the other
side,” he adds.
“If you can stay ahead of the curve, even when it’s
heading down, you’ll be in a better position to take
advantage of the situation when the time comes,
and the market improves and sales increase.”
Lesson #2 – Harness the power of silence
When there is regular silence in a business
meeting it can been seen as a ‘red flag’ because it
means that staff aren’t speaking up or contributing.
If just one person is dominating the conversation
most of the time, then the business has likely
has the same problem – a lack of input from
all contributors.
Mike Kotsis of GPS For Small Business encourages
you to embrace the power of silence.
“If you really want to let go of the vine and
supercharge your leadership team, then you need
to be comfortable with not speaking. Allow silence
to happen as your team’s most important work is
being done in the spaces where nothing is said,”
Kotsis explains.
“When you allow silent moments in a meeting,
you’re also giving your staff permission to speak
their minds. It may take some time for ideas to flow
but they will come. In fact, you’ll be surprised by
the insights that you hear – insights that you never
would have had on your own.”
If you can't encourage your staff to speak up you’ll
never achieve your business or personal goals.
While your staff are processing and offering their
thoughts, just listen. Don’t offer your ideas until they
are finished speaking.
"A leadership team that doesn’t have the space
to process their thoughts internally isn’t leading –
they’re following. And a leader who is driving all of
the team’s decisions is holding onto the vine," he
continues.
"Neither you nor your team can be truly effective
without that space to think during a meeting
- so shhh!"
Lesson #3 – Learn to deliver bad news
From performance criticism to budget cuts, bad
news is a part of the business. It’s important that
people in positions of power and responsibility
deliver this news appropriately and effectively.
For astute business managers, bad news is more
important than good. The latter can send you broke
while the latter won’t.
Human beings remember moments of peak
emotion and the end of an experience according
to psychologists.
Taking advantage of this insight is a pivotal skill
possessed by many strong managers, according to
Bri Williams, founder of People Patterns.
"Applying this to bad news, the biggest takeaway
is to focus on how you make people feel and how
you leave them. The criticism you share will likely
be the most intense part of the experience for the
employee – the ‘peak’,” Williams says.
“To manage their emotional response, be direct
and assured, but also compassionate. Remember
that you can use positive framing for bad news –
something like, ‘this is where I see your greatest
opportunity for development’ – to signal your
support for them.”
She adds: “The end is also important; leaving the
employee with clear examples of what they are
doing well means they will have the confidence and
reassurance from you to continue to perform.”
Lesson #4 – Plan for the road ahead
Planning for the future, particularly in terms of
August 2023 | 61

MANAGEMENT FEATURE | Golden Rules
LESSON #1
LESSON #2
LESSON #3
LESSON #4
LESSON #5
Review, but
don’t slash!
Harness the
power of
silence
Learn to
deliver bad
news
Plan for the
road ahead
Don’t be
afraid to
take risks
stock, is a complicated process with many
‘moving parts.
It's crucial your plan includes a pre-emptive and
long-range view; understanding that stock flow
from one period into the next is continuous.
Susan Martin, founder of Smart In Planning,
says it’s also important to develop an understanding
of which key performance indicator to focus on
and when.
“Planning, by definition, is only a plan. The endpoint
is moving, and every decision, every change –
whether planned or spontaneous – impacts the
future position,” Martin says.
“Deviations from the plan don’t necessarily mean
goals can’t be achieved; perhaps you will still
hit your targets, just not in the way you originally
thought. Knee-jerk reactions – such as focusing
on a particular number in isolation, or last-minute
clearance sales – can be costly mistakes that are
often repeated by retailers.”
Martin encourages you to review four key questions
when it comes to reviewing your inventory.
• What is the profile of your stock?
• What is the ‘health’ of your stock?
• What are the levels of your stock?
• What are the risk and opportunities in your stock?
“I’ve observed that many businesses conduct a
basic review, without translating it into a ‘preview’ –
an extrapolation of those insights, interpreted into a
strategy,” she clarifies.
“For example, if the review reveals performance
below target margins, with higher than planned
markdowns, a decision may be made to reduce
markdowns next season. On the surface, this
makes sense; we know that reduced markdowns
are linked to higher profits.”
Martin continues: “However, it’s not a
straightforward cause-and-effect relationship. To
achieve the desired end of higher margins, the
business must first correctly identify that high
markdowns were the problem, understand why this
was the case, and put in place a clear strategy as to
how this will be addressed going forward.”
Lesson #5 – Don’t be afraid to take risks
When it comes to developing and strengthening
your business, there are key areas where a
calculated risk can make all the difference.
Taking a risk is subjective; what one person
considers risky another might not give a second
thought. As we age, we tend to become more
risk-averse, favouring the ‘tried and true’ methods
rather than embracing what's ‘new and exciting’.
Business leaders often fear the very opportunities
which could dramatically increase sales,
according to David Brown, president of Retail
Edge Consultants.
“This risk aversion sometimes stems from having
previously been financially harmed. We instinctively
shy away from previous bad experiences. With too
many bad memories returning, we start to believe
that the same thing can happen again,” Brown says.
“Yet in many cases, these previous bad experiences
were circumstantial and not directly related to the
actions that we took. I see this time and time again
with jewellery storeowners who stick to the same
path of action over and over again even though the
market has moved on.”
He adds: “As it turns out, avoiding change can be
the greatest risk of all. Failing to take a chance can
be riskier than taking a few calculated gambles
– that is, ensuring the risk factor is managed as
effectively as possible.”
Inventory, marketing, split testing, and price – these
are four areas where taking a risk can dramatically
reshape your business.
The most important question when considering
taking a risk is to determine what the worst-case
scenario will be if things don’t go according to plan.
In most cases, you may be surprised to discover the
downside is actually minimal.
Not sure where to get started? Consider having a
‘risk budget’ as part of your annual plan and trying
something new with these funds.
“In every case, you need to decide if the upside
offers a multiplier several times higher than the
downside, and whether the downside can be
capped at a certain point to minimise that risk,”
Brown suggests.
“If you explore these options, you will find that there
are many opportunities in your business to take
controlled risks that can offer significant upsides –
and some of these risks could potentially catapult
the business to another level.”
He concludes: “When you assess these risks on
that basis, you will find the risk really isn’t that big
a risk after all.”
Conclusion
When so many voices of authority are predicting
a difficult or at least uncertain year ahead, it
can be easy for business owners to make selfinflicted
mistakes.
Fortunately, an uncomfortable retail environment
is an ideal opportunity to review your approach to
managing your business.
Review your business and its process, however;
don’t automatically begin making cuts – you run the
risk of eliminating something that’s been crucial to
previous successes.
Sometimes bad news is unavoidable, so
examine the way in which you’ve historically
delivered this news to your staff. Are there areas
you could improve?
Learn to make the most of silence, no matter how
difficult it may be. Ensure that every member of
your staff has the opportunity to be heard
– you never know what you may learn from what
they have to say!
Planning is crucial, particularly when it comes to
inventory. How well do you know your stock and are
there areas for improvement?
Finally, don’t be afraid to take measured risks as
this is how businesses develop and expand.
As we all know – fortune favours the brave!
62 | August 2023

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Unit 201, 2/F , Chevalier House 45-51 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong
www.shreehk.com • +(852) 6040-4708 • info@shreehk.com

Experience the elegance and
allure of our fancy-coloured
diamonds today!
ABOUT SHREE INTERNATIONAL:
At Shree International (HK) Ltd., we are manufacturers and traders
specializing in Natural Fancy Colored diamonds, with a particular
focus on Argyle Pink and Blue diamonds. Our extensive selection
includes a wide range of colours such as Pink, Blue, Grey, Violet,
and more, available in various sizes.
What sets us apart is our cutting techniques, carefully designed to
bring out the best possible colour and scintillating brilliance in
our diamonds. Our mission is to make your life colourful by
offering high-quality, vibrant, and dazzling diamonds.
VISIT US STAND G30
IJF Sydney, 19-21 Aug 2023 at Darling Harbour, ICC Sydney

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR
Show & Tell
SHOW &
TELL
2023
There's something for everyone at this year’s
International Jewellery Fair - the largest gathering
of the industry in the past decade. In this exclusive
preview, take a sneak peek at what’s on offer for buyers.
*Stand numbers and exhibitor details were accurate at time of publishing

IJF
D01
68 | August 2023
p +61 (0)8 8221 5580
sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au
exclusive distributor AU & NZ

IJF
D01
p +61 (0)8 8221 5580
sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au
August 2023 | 69
exclusive distributor AU & NZ

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Ania Haie
Duraflex Group Australia
Inspired by the vibrant colours and
mixed media styles that define the
Pop Art era, Ania Haie's Pop Charms
collection is all about expressing
individuality and creating your own
unique looks. A playful and personal
collection in equal measure, the
59-piece collection is crafted from
925 sterling silver with 14-carat gold
or rhodium plating.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
August Berg
Designa Accessories
The iconic Strawberry Thief 3D
dial is elevated by 12 flawlessly
cut Czech Preciosa crystal
indicators and petite Rose
Gold hands. Japanese Quartz
Movement is protected by flat,
crystal clear, anti-reflective,
scratch-resistant sapphire
glass, which completes the
enchanting look of the August
Berg + Morris & Co ‘Petite’
collaboration.
designaaccessories.com.au
STAND
B39
Autore Pearls
Autore’s Timeless Collection. St Moritz
earrings, detailed in 18-carat white gold with
white diamonds and white South Sea pearls.
St Moritz Pendant, featuring 18-carat white
gold with white diamonds and a white South
Sea pearl. Single row diamond eternity ring,
with 18-carat white gold and white diamonds
paired with a white South Sea pearl.
autorepearls.com.au
STAND
G09
Baume & Mercier
Duraflex Group Australia
With a rich legacy spanning
almost two centuries,
Baume & Mercier pride
themselves on their precise
watchmaking that produces
pieces of the highest quality.
The Riviera collection -
first released in 1973 and
recently reinterpreted
- expresses the brand's
design expertise and its
exquisite use of materials.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
BECKS
BECKS Group Australia
BECKS presents a fusion between
Australian metals and fine craft.
Sapphires and diamonds are
proudly crafted in the SA studio
to embody the unique beauty of
Australia’s natural treasures.
becksgroup.au
STAND
E01
Blush Pink Diamonds
Sams Group Australia
The newest Blush Pink Diamond
collection from Pink Kimberley boasts
a beautiful array of wearable, stylish
and unique designs. The Blush Pink
Collection combines rarity and luxury
with accessibility. The Blush Pink range
was created based on the principle
that jewellery with natural pink Argyle
diamonds should be affordable to
women from all walks of life.
pinkkimberley.com.au
STAND
F18
70 | August 2023

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023 | Show & Tell
Bronzallure
Duraflex Group Australia
Designed and made in Italy, this
pendant necklace is made of Golden
Rose alloy, 18-carat rose gold plated,
and features a stunning lavender
amethyst natural gemstone.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
Centrestone Jewellery Insurance
Centrestone Jewellery Insurance offers
customers an effortless solution to
insuring their precious jewellery pieces
by working closely with a network of
jewellers to offer an insurance policy
that is tailored specifically to each
unique piece. Policies are custommade
by jewellery experts with
comprehensive worldwide coverage.
centrestone.com.au
STAND
C09
Chemgold
Enhance and complete
designs with Chemgold’s wide
range of high-quality precious
metal components. Produced
in Australia and Italy,
Chemgold’s findings are made
from the finest materials
which come in 18-carat, ninecarat
and sterling silver.
chemgold.com
STAND
D17
Classique Watches
Sams Group Australia
A Classique staple design, these
watches are available in an array
of metal and dial colours, featuring
a bracelet band and round face,
with the option for a diamond
bezel. Fitted with Swiss quartz
movement.
classiquewatches.com
STAND
F18
Cour De Lion
Timesupply
German handmade brand Coeur de Lion
has released this vibrant Viva Magenta set,
featuring this season's most fashionable
colour showcased in the iconic GEOcube
design. Also about to be exclusively
released at the International Jewellery
Fair is the new JOYFUL colours pack,
which includes an eye-catching display to
draw attention to these vibrant bracelets.
timesupply.com.au
STAND
D01
August 2023 | 71

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Cultured Jewellery Designs
Cultured Jewellery Designs is led by Lisa
Berghofer. Offers include a necklace and
bracelet matching set with silver rose goldplated
magnetic clasp and pink freshwater
pearl. Earrings with nine-carat yellow gold,
with a faceted Carnelian drop design.
culturedjewellerydesigns.com
STAND
D35
Daniel Wellington
Duraflex Group Australia
Daniel Wellington watches are
defined by their clean, minimalistic
designs, with a timeless versatility
that makes them the perfect
watches for any occasion. The
Iconic Chronograph Link integrates
seamlessly into the brand's
trademark simple dial design in
blue with a sunray finish, featuring
three sub-dials that provide
multiple stop-watch functionalities
and ensure flawless precision.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
Diamond Sensation
Diamond Sensation has worked with jewellery
retailers all over Australia for more than 25
years, with designs that are catered for the
local market. Diamond Sensation also offers
the latest styles from Europe, Asia and the US
with a large range of live inventory in different
locations, available for immediate delivery.
diamondsensation.com.au
STAND
B18
Diamonds by DGA
Duraflex Group Australia
Featuring the most beautiful
selection of jewellery finished to
the highest quality, the Diamonds
by DGA range features ninecarat
and 18-carat gold diamond
earrings, bracelets, rings,
and pendants. These natural
diamonds are high-quality in
both colour and clarity.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
Diamonds on Call
Diamonds On Call aims to bring
confidence and comfort to all who
use the platform, whether they be
a jeweller, retailer, manufacturer,
or designer. True to this desire
to unify, Diamonds On Call is
available on all devices and all
operating systems.
diamondsoncall.com
STAND
B10
72 | August 2023

Trusted by Jewellers for Decades
Learn more about our high quality metals and unmatched service
from design, printing and casting to refining, findings and bullion.
Visit the all-new chemgold.com
CHEMGOLD
CARES
We are Committed to Achieving Responsible, Ethical
and Sustainable metals.

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
DJ Diamond Designs
DJ Diamond Designs presents emerald-cut
diamond hoop earrings set in 18-carat white gold.
Also available is pink sapphire and diamond drop
earrings set in 18-carat white gold.
djdiamonddesigns.com.au
STAND
B17
Edox
Duraflex Group Australia
Edox's CO-1 Titanium Chronograph
is crafted from strong yet
lightweight titanium, with features
including a water resistance of
1000m, luminescent components,
chronograph sub-dials, and a
scratch-resistant sapphire crystal,
this watch is among the world's
best Swiss-made chronographs.
This watch is a versatile accessory
that exemplifies Edox's dedication
to the Swiss watchmaking craft in
its innovative, impressive design.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
Ellendale Diamonds
Icons by Ellendale Diamonds is a stand-alone
jewellery collection bringing you ravishing pieces
that have been inspired by great Icons throughout
history. Ellendale also offers an array of remarkable
pink diamonds sourced from the Argyle mine,
ranging from 0.07 to 0.25-carat.
ellendalediamonds.com.au
STAND
A23
Element Designer Jewellery
Element Designer Jewelry, as a
manufacturer and exporter, takes
pride in its staff of more than
200 skilled craftsmen. This is a
beautiful classic collection featuring
blue sapphires, aquamarine, and
tanzanite, meticulously handcrafted
with 18-carat white gold.
elementdesignerjew.com
STAND
H31
Evie Love Diamonds
With a reputation for timeless elegance
and singular craftsmanship, Evie Love
has curated a fine collection of vintage
and antique jewellery coupled with
some of the latest trends in modern
design. The business began as a hobby
in the heart of Sydney's Northern
Beaches, Evie Love now proudly serves
as a premium seller of fine jewellery.
evielovediamonds.com
STAND
H15
voteh aifi
Introducing the Fuser500 Micro Casting System. The
Fuser500 is the only complete micro-casting system in the
market. User-friendly, compact and energy efficient, it allows
jewellers to scale small productions, and streamline time
and cost while maintaining the highest production standards.
evotechpacific.com.au
STAND
C36
74 | August 2023

Experience the Innovative
3D Ring Conigurator
Every bespoke creation uses ethical and sustainable 100% Australian Gold
1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE
LIVADI.COM
Responsible Jewellery Council Member No: 0000 4408
August 2023 | 75

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
SECURE
EARRI NG BACKS
Proudly de signed and
manufactured in the UK
Fabuleux Vous
Fabuleux Vous is excited to announce the
new release of the Lucie collection at the
International Jewellery Fair. Featuring three
semi-precious gemstones in blue topaz,
rhodolite garnet and green amethyst, each
is a petite rectangle cut. Lucie pieces will
be available in two colour choices, either
sterling silver or sterling silver finished with
18-carat yellow gold plating.
fabuleuxvous.com
STAND
F14
SAFE
S ECURE
NON-S LIP
H YPO-A LLERGE NIC
C OMFORTABLE
Furla
Designa Accessories
Furla Tortana by Furla, is a statement
women’s piece. This 30mm timepiece
features a repeating logo motif on the
rose gold-tone case and logo detailing
on the rose gold-tone bracelet making
it undeniably Furla and the perfect
finishing touch to any look.
designaaccessories.com.au
STAND
B39
Furla Jewel
Designa Accessories
A piece that blends timelessness and
Furla's Italian quality, while capturing the
wearer's beauty, the Furla Arch Double rose
gold-tone earrings are a must-have piece.
Genuine crystals on the Furla Arch motif
make this piece timeless and versatile.
designaaccessories.com.au
STAND
B39
(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Gallagher Insurance Brokers
A standard Jewellers Block insurance
policy will provide coverage for a range of
risks, tailored to your business. Gallagher’s
exclusive Jewellers Block policy is
developed specifically for jewellers, and
offers 100 per cent Lloyds of London
security with market-leading cover. There
are a range of available extensions and
additional benefits for jewellers who need
more cover for the unique risks they face.
ajg.com
STAND
B26
Georgini
West End Collection
The Luxury Letter Collection by
Georgini features this year’s hottest
Initial trend with added sparkle, shine
and design. Each letter is crafted
from rhodium-plated 925 sterling
silver or 18-carat gold-plated 925
sterling silver and adorned with
sparkling cubic zirconia.
georgini.com.au
STAND
D10
Global Jewellery Concepts
Global Jewellery Concepts is a
Melbourne-based jewellery designer
and wholesaler. With more than 40
years in the jewellery industry, the
company is proudly Australian-owned
and family-operated. Offers include a
stylish range of jewellery with a focus
on delivering responsibly sourced
and well-made designs. Delivery is
available across Australia and New
Zealand.
gjconcepts.com.au
STAND
B12
Gold Exchange Universe
Gold Exchange Universe is a family-run business, that is
proud to have been serving Sydney and the rest of Australia for
the past 35 years. As a well-established industry leader, the
company is able to offer our customers the most competitive
indicative rates for gold, fine jewellery, diamonds and watches.
goldexchangeuniverse.com.au
STAND
F01
Himalayan Treasures
Himalayan Treasures offers the finest
jewellery crafted from precious metals,
luxurious gemstones and handed down
superb craftsmanship. These luxurious
pieces are designed with attention
to detail, bringing out the natural
beauty of the gemstones and creating
timeless treasures.
himtreasures.com
STAND
A03
Ikecho Australia
Just like twilight, the time
between dawn and sunrise,
deep in pink and captivating,
these deep-pink-hued
pearl pendants from Ikecho
Australia will take your breath
away. Wear with confidence
and let your vibrancy shine
through. These statement
necklaces are the perfect
choice to add to your everyday
or formal wear look.
ikecho.com.au
STAND
E13
78 | August 2023

SEE YOU AT:
2023 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR STAND E13
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY FAIR STAND 83
LUXURY PEARL & OPAL JEWELLERY
02 9266 0636 • ENQUIRIES@IKECHO.COM.AU • WHOLESALE.IKECHO.COM.AU

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Ingersoll
West End Collection
Designed with a bold
skeleton dial, Ingersoll's
The Broadway 51mm
grabs attention due to its
uniqueness. Crafted from
gold-tone stainless steel, the
timepiece is powered through
an automatic movement that
guides two hands across a
grey-hued dial.
westendcollection.com.au
STAND
D10
The
Luminox
MIL-SPEC
Inspiring Pearls
Inspiring Pearls is an emerging pearl
jewellery business, offering a beautiful
collection in a range of classic and
contemporary styles. Offers include
this round gold south sea pearl on
nine-carat gold diamond shepherd
hook earrings.
inspiringpearls.com.au
STAND
B35
Luminox Mil-Spec
3350 Series
JAG
Duraflex Group Australia
JAG embodies the effortless
sophistication of the Australian
lifestyle, offering a versatile range
of timepieces that are inspired
by the country's captivating
landscapes. The Bathurst watch is
sporty, and durable, and features a
chronograph movement with a date
function, creating the perfect blend
between fashion and functionality.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

THEBLACKRING.COM.AU

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
STAND
C20
JS Landau Diamonds
JS Landau collections are carefully
selected with an emphasis on
expanding product offerings and
improving customer experience.
Delivery options and payment
methods are generous and flexible.
jslandaudiamonds.com
STAND
A06
La Couronne Jewellery
Explore La Couronne's newest
Christmas catalogue collection
with the new oval spellbound
cut London blue topaz ring
dressed in diamonds. Intricate
in design and wonderfully
timeless, the elegant cocktail
ring is set in nine-carat gold
and can be viewed at the
International Jewellery Fair..
lacouronnejewellery.com.au
LJ West
The Scott West Aureole Hoop
Earrings Collection, featuring
large (37mm) 18-carat yellow
gold with 268 stones of natural
pink diamonds (2.16-carat)
as well as 154 white melee
diamonds (1.42-carat).
scottwestdiamonds.com
STAND
F10
Luminox
Duraflex Group Australia
Since 1989, Luminox has been
dedicated to creating watches that
combine precision, durability, and
functionality. These timepieces are
designed to meet the demanding
needs of professionals in the military,
law enforcement, and other extreme
environments, as well as adventurous
individuals who require a watch that
can keep up with their active lifestyle.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
Mark McAskill Jewellery
New from Mark McAskill
Jewellery, gorgeous green
peridots delight with brilliant cut
diamonds in a stunning ornate
design set in 9-carat yellow gold.
markmcaskill.com.au
STAND
C10
82 | August 2023

(02)
(02)
9417
9417
0177
0177
|
|
dgau.com.au
dgau.com.au

Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Maserati
West End Collection
The Epoca timepieces
embody all of Maserati's
technical expertise and
masterful design. Exclusive
and inimitable models,
with a rigorous design and
exceptional functions. The
Epoca collection watches
are inspired by the design
of the Maserati 3500 GT of
1957, a symbol of style and
mechanics excellence.
westendcollection.com.au
STAND
D10
Maxum
Designa Accessories
Maxum’s newest design, the
Mini block is a petite but tough
timepiece. With a built-in stop
watch, alarm, backlight, 100 metres
water resistance and a two-year
replacement warranty, it’s classic
white and rose gold features make it
the latest must-have digital watch.
designaaccessories.com.au
STAND
B39
Mohit Diamonds
Mohit Diamonds have built a solid reputation
as an expert in polished diamonds in flat, fancy
and unique shapes and sizes. Aiming to help
businesses and private customers every step
of the way, to ensure they select the perfect
gemstones for their jewellery collections.
mohitdiamonds.com
STAND
C44
Mishwa Export
The proficiency of Mishwa Exports lies in diamond
manufacturing versatility, with the knack of crafting
high-quality diamonds since its establishment
in 2019. As one of the world's leading la-created
diamond manufacturers, the company aims to deliver
the highest possible value to all stakeholders.
mishwaexport.com
STAND
C39
Mondaine
Duraflex Group Australia
The two new additions to Mondaine’s
evo2 collection retain their iconic Swiss
railway clock design, while showcasing
the new dial colours ‘Turquoise Lake’
and ‘Wild Rose’ that take inspiration
from Swiss lakes and their surrounding
flora. These models not only honour
nature in their design but also in their
construction, as they are assembled with
up to 80 per cent photovoltaic power
generated in-house.
dgau.com.au
STAND
A07
84 | August 2023

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Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Morris and Watson
Morris and Watson prides itself
on friendly customer service and
high-quality products and services.
Established in 1928 and still privately
owned and operated. Morris and Watson
offer an extensive range of products
and services including; bullion, precious
metal refining, fabricated metals, CAD,
3D printing, casting, bangles and chain.
morrisandwatson.com
STAND
C45
1/2 PG V
My Little Angel
Paterson Fine Jewellery
On trend and vibrant, these My Little
Angel children's initial pendants
are inlaid with multi-coloured cubic
zirconia in yellow-plated sterling silver.
Chain included. Available in letters A-Z.
Children's belcher chain bracelets with
ID plates that can be engraved also
available in sterling silver or yellow
plated sterling silver in two adjustable
sizes 13-16cm and 16-20cm.
pfj.com.au
STAND
B01
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NCF AUS
Borsari steel bracelets deliver
beauty, craftsmanship and
innovation using the latest
sophisticated Italian production
techniques. Available in
assorted coloured platings with
a clever adjustable fit clasp and
18-carat rose gold screws.
ncfaus.com
STAND
B49
Classiquewatches.com
Nomination
Timesupply
Nomination Composable bracelets
tell a story, link by link, are highly
collectible, unisex, easy to wear, and
offer excellent repeat business. There
are thousands of options with new
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nomination-jewellery.com.au
STAND
D01
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Nordgreen
West End Collection
The Philosopher men’s watches’
two-piece dial and asymmetric
second hand combine to create a
truly unique design. This model
celebrates the ability to think
differently, push boundaries, and
make a statement wherever you go.
westendcollection.com.au
STAND
D10
Osia International
Osia International is a fine jewellery
manufacturing and diamond trading
company based in Hong Kong since
1992 with jewellery production
completed in China and Hong Kong.
Proud to have a wide range of
clientele ranging from chain stores
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Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Paterson Fine Jewellery
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Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
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Show & Tell | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023
Salt and Pepper Diamonds
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WATCH MODEL:
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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2023 | Show & Tell
Worth & Douglas
Regarded as one of Australasia’s leading
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FEATURE
Colour Gemstones
JUSTIN K PRIM recounts a
journey through Cambodia and
Thailand searching for gemstones.

y JUSTIN K PRIM
DIVING DEEPER
RUBIES &
SAPPHIRES
Though two different countries, the
regions around Pailin (Cambodia)
and Chanthaburi (Thailand) have an
interrelated history when it comes to politics,
mining, and geology.
Separated by about 90 kilometres of road, the two regions
consist of several inactive volcanoes and valleys where most
of the mining occurs.
Pailin and Chanthaburi are most well-known for rubies
and sapphires; however, other gemstones are also found
in the region.
Our visit to Cambodia began at the Pailin gemstone market,
which consists of several stores near the Phnom Yat Pagoda.
One store is both a gemstone gallery and a restaurant and
this is where many of the merchants have breakfast, and
which became our ritual for our entire stay in Pailin. We
would leave our hotel and head to this restaurant and get a
table. After a breakfast of noodle soup, the merchants would
bring different parcels of gemstones for us to consider.
Pailin is a quiet town with an equally laid-back market, so
it was easy for us to spend several hours at the breakfast
table or to head to some of the adjoining stores for an
hour or two at a time.
Our team leader, Vincent Pardieu, would use these
opportunities to share a some of his wisdom about the local
trade and offer insight into the gemstones. We saw many
parcels of low-grade corundum, small sapphires and rubies
that had poor colour and clarity.
Around 2002, gemstone burners in Chanthaburi discovered
how to treat the poorly coloured corundum with heat and the
chemical beryllium to change them from cloudy bluish-red to
clear, glowing orangish-red beauties.
The treatment gave the stones a fresh breath of life and in
turn reinvigorated the mining region, as they possessed a
significant amount of previously worthless stones now worthy
of trading.
We ventured into the protected jungles inside the Samlot
district to see what we could find and observed a truck from
the Halo Trust, a group that is working to find and remove
landmines that injure and kill hundreds of people each year.
It was a good reminder of how careful we had to be while
trekking through the jungle. Any aimless straying from the
direct roads and paths could end in tragedy.
BIRTH STONES
Ruby is the birthstone for July
and the gemstone for 15th and
40th anniversaries. Sapphire is
the birthstone for September,
and is the gemstone that marks
a 45th anniversary.
COLOUR
Ruby’s red colour is a result of
trace amounts of chromium
present in the crystal. The more
chromium that is present, the
stronger the colour will be.
HISTORY
European royalty and upper
classes have a famous desire
for rubies, and many people in
medieval times believed that
these gemstones offered their
wearers health, wealth, and
wisdom.
WISDOM
In Ancient Greece, the wealthy
wore sapphire for guidance
when seeking answers from the
oracle. Buddhists meanwhile
believed that it brought spiritual
enlightenment.
ROCK HARD
The remarkable hardness of
sapphires, which measure nine
on the Mohs scale, is second
only to diamond. This is the
reason why sapphire is one
of the few gemstones that
make a popular alternative for
engagement rings.
When we reached our first destination, we were greeted by
a Cambodian military officer. He guided us through a jungle
path to a river which we had to cross via a small canoe.
From there, we continued along the path until we reached
another river where we encountered two miners. One of the
miners was 72-years-old and proudly told us that he was the
oldest miner in the area.
It appeared that while the land is protected from mining by
the MJP Trust, the local custodians have given permission to
a handful of artisanal Cambodian miners to work.
As long as the mining groups are small, spread out, and don’t
harm the environment, the conservation group allows them
to earn their living this way.
The technique we witnessed was one of the most simple and
ancient methods of mining. The miner gets into the cloudy
yellow river which is about waist high with a sifting bag and a
fine straining basket.
He sifts through the dirt and mud at the bottom looking for
precious stones. He fills his sifting bag with rocks and mud
from the bottom and then pours that into his basket, where
he shakes and rinses it in the water.
Periodically the basket is lifted to see if anything colourful has
been recovered. This is a very slow method of mining, but it
costs the miners nothing but their own time, so it’s a low-cost
way for locals to earn a living.
After departing, the soldier took us to another site that was
about ten minutes away on foot.
We met two more miners who were sifting through small
pits that they had hand-dug in the hunt for gemstones. We
purchased about 15 pinkish rubies from one of the miners,
which he said was his yield from the previous week.
We continued via motorbike and arrived at a third mining site
that was being used by one miner - another alluvial deposit
in a river. I was told that this area had already been mined
heavily in previous decades.
The path along the river was littered with rubble and boulders
that had been pulled out of the water by previous miners. We
walked along this rocky path until we found the spot we were
looking for.
A lone miner was situated in the water in a similar fashion to
what we had seen earlier in the day, using a basket and tray
to sift the rocks and mud looking for precious gemstones.
He had been working all morning and was getting
99 | August 2023

Colour Gemstones Feature | MINE TO MARKET
tired but was happy to let us watch him work for the
remainder of his work day.
Afterward, he showed us what we had found recently, and
we got to see smaller pinkish-red ruby specimens that we
were learning is typical of the area.
At a small jungle house, we looked at our final few parcels
of local gemstones while the wives prepared dinner for
the miners. We inspected several parcels. New bags of
gemstones kept appearing from unseen pockets as soon as
the previous ones were purchased!
Visiting Pailin Market
We decided to spend our second day inspecting the
market to see what kind of gemstones people had been
buying from the local miners in the past few months
and spent time comparing the unheated rubies with
beryllium-treated stones and reflecting on what it meant
for the gemstone industry.
One moment that I particularly enjoyed was a visit to a store
that had workers faceting rubies and sapphires.
As a gem cutter, I am always interested to see people of
different cultures cut in their unique way. These workers
had the gemstones attached to a dop with wax and the dop
was attached to a wooden handpiece, identical to the type
we see in Thailand.
The handpiece, like a simple version of a Raytech-Shaw/
Imahashi hand piece, would let the gemstone freely rotate.
It didn’t have indices but the faceter seemed to know how
far to rotate the stone to get the index he wanted. With this
method, he could also adjust the angle of the stone.
It was great to get to see such a wide variety of corundum
from the region. We also saw a lot of stones that weren’t
from the area. Those were interesting for the purpose
of contrasting and comparing to the local corundum;
however, for our purposes, we weren’t interested in buying
gemstones from other regions.
We spent time going back and forth between the natural
rubies and those that were beryllium treated. In many
examples, you can easily see how the natural stones
have too much blue in the red to really be called rubies
and to be profitable.
The beryllium treatment removes a lot of the blue from
the gemstones leaving them with an orangish tint. The
treatment also heals the fractures in the rough meaning
there is cleaner stone to cut. In general, you end up with
Remarkable artisans:
The gemstone faceting
process in Cambodia.
Rubies and sapphires await
faceting in Cambodia.
Beautiful landscapes:
The eastern view from
the top of Khao Ploy Waen.
bigger cut gemstones than what would not have been
possible with the unheated material.
Phnom Yat Temple
As we left the market, we decided to pay our respects
to the Phnom Yat Temple. We crossed the street and
trekked up the numerous stairs that lead to the top of
the sleeping volcano.
This temple is important for the history of rubies and
sapphires in Pailin. One of the first things you see when
you get to the top is a statue of a golden otter playing with a
piece of rough.
The local legend suggests that Burmese merchants were
hunting in the forest when they saw an old woman who
greeted them. They didn’t know it at the time, but this
wasn’t a woman, it was a nature spirit named Ye Yat.
She told them that they shouldn’t kill the animals and that
instead if they travelled down to the river they would see
something that would give them a better livelihood.
Once at the river, the migrants saw two otters playing with
shiny stones, one blue and one red. The migrants knew
what the stones were, and they started digging, finding
more and more ruby and sapphire.
There is also a small temple to the nature spirit woman,
Ye Yat. The locals take offerings to her as a mark of
gratitude for her role in guiding their ancestors to the
lucrative gemstones that provided their families with
wealth for generations.
Saying goodbye to Pailin
On our final day in Pailin, we had breakfast at the market
and then headed to one last mining site - it wasn’t too far
from the town centre.
By the river, we discovered two miners sitting in the river
looking for stones. This was a rare example of a mining site
that is renewable. The miners have dug pits in the middle
of the river with a ring of rocks around it so that as the river
current passes their pits, the heavier rocks would drop.
The miners use a shovel with a long handle to pull a pile
of rocks from their pit and put them in sifting baskets.
They only mine in the river during the dry season because
during the rainy season, the water is too deep and safety is
a concern.
The miners exited the water and showed us the collection
of stones that they had found in the past few weeks. Both
100 | August 2023

"This temple is
important for the
history of rubies and
sapphires in Pailin.
One of the first
things you see when
you get to the top is
a statue of a golden
otter playing with a
piece of rough."
D
A
E
F
B
A
Gemstone miner showing Vincent
Pardieu his ruby collection in the
water.
C
B
C
A regional miner searches the
water for gemstones.
Time for an inspection: Local
Pailin unheated rubies on the
left, and rubies with beryllium
treatment on right.
D
Tour guide Vincent Pardieu
inspecting a parcel of sapphires.
E
F
Tradition honoured: The Otter and
the Ruby at the Phnom Yat Temple.
Gemstone deals around the
breakfast table in Pailin.
August 2023 | 101

Colour Gemstones Feature | MINE TO MARKET
"We were able to
get samples from
both men and also
hear stories about
life as a miner."
RIGHT
Group photo of the gemstone
mining expedition team with
three Cambodian soldiers.
FAR RIGHT
Learning the 'tricks of the trade'
from the local mining community.
were in good spirits and smiled and laughed as we
negotiated prices for their findings.
We were able to get samples from both men and
also hear stories about life as a miner. It wasn’t
all laughter – we were told a horror story of a
miner losing his foot. The miner once worked a
job harvesting bamboo, however; he stepped on a
landmine. Now, he must walk with a large stick
and there are many jobs he is unable to do.
Luckily, he discovered that he could earn a living
as a river miner.
Chanthaburi, Thailand
Our journey to the Chanthaburi side of the border
started at the temple on top of the Khao Ploy Waen
Volcano.
The name of the volcano translates as ‘mountain
gemstone ring.’ The ring around the volcano is the
area where you discover the gemstones.
In the distant past, magma from the then-active
volcano brought gemstones with it to the surface
and then when the magma cooled, it turned into
basalt rock.
The corundum was stuck inside the new basalt,
and many are etched from their exposure to the
magma.
In Burma, temples are constructed on top of
mountains to give respect to the spirits of the
mountain, prevent earthquakes, and keep the local
spirits satiated during mining.
Burma has many earthquakes, and the local people
believe they are caused by underground snakes, so
they do whatever they can to appease these spirits.
This region of Thailand was settled by Burmese
miners, and they brought their customs with them.
As a result, Chanthaburi also has mountaintop
temples. This hill and temple are sacred to the local
people and therefore this hill itself has never been
mined.
From the top of this temple, we could see mines
all around us. This was a surprise, as we had
been told many times that there was no more
mining in Chanthaburi.
"The locals take offerings to her as a
mark of gratitude for her role in guiding
their ancestors to the lucrative gemstones
that provided their families with wealth
for generations."
On our way up to the top, we met a local man who
told us that there hasn’t been mining in the area in
more than 20 years.
Little did he know that from the top, you could see
at least eight working mines if you looked toward
the east!
Slope of Khao Ploy Waen
The first mine we visited was run by a married
couple with one business partner who
understood engineering.
The mining land is adjacent to their home, so each
year they use an excavator and dig a large hole
somewhere around their house.
They spend the dry season sifting through the
dirt pile, eventually returning all the dirt back
into the hole - minus any sapphires and rubies
that they discover.
This time, we participated in the mining process
rather than just watching. The mine can be run
with just two people - one man shooting the pile of
dirt with a water hose and another person on top
of the washing plant, keeping big stones out of the
pulsating jig that collects the corundum.
In essence, the miners want to liquify the entire
pile of dirt and send it through the washing station,
however; this takes time, so they attack the hill bit
by bit, using recycled rainwater to spray.
The miners invited us to take charge of the
water hose and start liquifying the dirt mound.
As the water turns to mud, it runs downhill into
the washing plant where it gets sorted. The big
rocks are pulled out by hand and thrown into the
giant pit below.
The excess water also runs into the pit, eventually
returning to the top via a water pump. As we traded
positions, I took a turn pulling out all the large
rocks from the sliding mud so that the miner on
the washing plant would have less work to do.
I noticed a flash of gold that I had seen on
some other rough from this mine and I pulled
it out, revealing a large sapphire. It was a very
satisfying feeling!
Our team leader, Vincent, said he had never seen
102 | August 2023

"In essence, the
miners want to
liquify the entire pile
of dirt and send it
through the washing
station, however; this
takes time, so they
attack the hill bit by
bit, using recycled
rainwater to spray."
B
A
D
C
A
Ready to be cut and polished:
Justin K Prim examines a sapphire
he extracted from the mud.
B
Group discussion: Vincent Pardieu
talks with author Kim Rix.
C
Reasons to smile: Vincent Pardieu
negotiates prices with a happy
gemstone miner by the river.
D
Careful inspection goes hand in
hand with polishing the roughs.
August 2023 | 103

Colour Gemstones Feature | MINE TO MARKET
ABOVE
Team work: miners search the water
for gemstones as a partnership.
LEFT
An excavator placing pyroclastic ash
dirt into the tromme as the search for
gemstones continues.
anyone pull a sizable sapphire out of the mud in
that manner. We later purchased the gemstone for
research purposes.
When the pulsating jig was full, the miners turned
off the water and let the washing plant empty.
They began sifting through the small pebbles in
the machine and pulling out all the corundum and
discarding the rocks.
Once finished, we washed up and met near the
house. The miners looked at everything that had
been recovered and showed us what had been
found in the recent weeks.
While looking at all the rough, we learned that there
are many star sapphires in the western part of the
Pailin and Chanthaburi area.
These stones are large, dark, and have a high
concentration of iron which causes needles and
platelets to form in the stone, creating the star
phenomenon.
Sometimes, the needles and platelets are organised
in two different directions, creating two different
six-ray stars which makes a 12-ray star.
Depending on the concentration of the trace
elements in the stone, sometimes the two different
stars are slightly different colours.
In contrast on the Pailin side, there are no needles,
only particles which refract light and create a silkylooking
gemstone.
Bon Ka Cha
After purchasing our stones we jumped in the
van and rode to a location known as the Bon Ka
Cha mine.
The soil composition of the Bon Ka Cha mine was
very different than the previous mine we visited.
Here, the miners were discovering gemstones in
a layer of pyroclastic ash that rests a foot or two
below the ground.
The swampy area was underwater 100 years ago
and we discovered marine evidence. Shells of all
sizes littered the topsoil.
"In Burma, temples are constructed on top of
mountains to give respect to the spirits of the
mountain, prevent earthquakes, and keep
the local spirits satiated during mining. "
The scale of Bon Ka Cha was huge compared to
the small ‘family mine’ we had just encountered.
During the day, we met the owner of the Bon Ka
Cha mine – Mr Rainbow. He is a senator for the
Chanthaburi government and has been a miner
at this location for more than 30 years.
He told us he thinks the mine has five more years
of production left in it. He was also ready to start a
mining operation in Pailin.
Rehabilitated mine
The final mine we visited was not actually a mine
- it was a field that was once a mine; however, the
landowners had filled in the holes and turned it
into a banana plantation once the area had stopped
producing gemstones.
The site had been transformed into something that
was still useful and profitable for the landowners.
This was a great example of a conservation-friendly
mining practice.
The land was once used to harvest gemstones;
however, it remains important for the local
economy. This is a common occurrence in
this part of the world.
The volcanic soil that comprises the area is rich
in minerals and fertile. The banana is usually the
first thing to be planted after mining, as it’s useful
for reconditioning the soil and preparing for future
crops such as durian, papaya, and dragon fruit.
This mine was our final stop for the expedition.
We took our final photos and wrote down our
closing notes just before a storm rolled in.
All in all, it was a great trip, an eye-opening
adventure, and a success. We learned a great deal,
collected valuable gemstone samples, and made
new friends along the way.
The author would like to thank expedition
leader Vincent Pardieu as well as the expedition
team and camera crew: Sovanny Ly, Myriam
Buduca, Alexey Yakhlakov, Kim Rix, Didier
Barriere, and Anthony Methez.
JUSTIN K PRIM is an American gemcutter and
author. He has studied gemcutting traditions all
over the world as well as attending gemology
programs at GIA and AIGS. Justin has taught
gemology and gemcutting at AIGS and IGT in
Bangkok and he has recently published his first
book, The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting. He
is the founder of Faceting Apprentice, an online
gemcutting school. Visit: www.justinkprim.com
104 | August 2023

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Y

BUSINESS
Strategy
Diving deep into the personality
traits of great business leaders
What does it mean to be a strong leader in a business setting?
DAVID BROWN explores the common traits shared by jewellery industry trendsetters.
I must confess that I’m loathed to write
an article that lists the top 10 ways to do
something.
It seems everywhere you look online
there is a ‘listicle’ of sorts that has been
designed to be little more than clickbait
for someone’s website.
Having said that, there’s a reason this
practice is so common and that’s because
a good list cuts to the chase of what busy
people are wanting – a summary of points
and a ready-made recipe of what they can do
to see fast results.
I was talking with a colleague recently and
we discussed what made a good manager
so effective at what they did.
We both agreed that it was invariably
their personality traits that had made the
difference, It’s that ‘certain something’ that
was unique to them that helped them to
respond positively in the situations that a
manager must deal with.
Personality is an inherently individual thing,
and you can change your personality as
easily as you can change the planet you live
on. With that said, there are certain traits
you can add to your personality to help you
become a more well-rounded manager.
Key traits
• Open-mindedness: Being open to
new ideas and perspectives can help
you make informed decisions and foster
a collaborative work environment. In
a constantly changing world you won’t
survive long without this skill.
• Empathy: Understanding and valuing the
emotions and perspectives of others can
help you build strong relationships with
your staff and foster a positive work culture.
Nothing beats the ability to ‘get’ where the
other person comes from.
• Resilience: A good manager must be able
to handle stress and adversity and bounce
back from setbacks to continue leading their
business effectively. This can serve as an
example to those under them.
• Confidence: Complete confidence in
your abilities and decisions can help you
inspire trust and respect from your staff and
stakeholders. People follow those who show
confidence in what they do.
As artist Vincent van Gogh once said: “If you
hear a voice within you that says ‘you cannot
paint’, then by all means paint, and that
voice will be silenced.”
• Creativity: Creativity can help you come
Being able
to adapt to
changing
circumstances
and remain
flexible in your
approach
can help you
navigate
unexpected
challenges and
opportunities.
up with innovative solutions to complex
problems and challenges. This may be one
of the more difficult to adopt, but where
you may lack creativity yourself, the skill of
encouraging outside-the-box thinking in
others can be just as effective.
• Emotional intelligence: Understanding
and managing your own emotions and those
of your staff can help you create a positive
and productive work environment. We place
a high value in academic intelligence and
too often undervalue this skill. It can often
be the more important tool.
• Integrity: Honesty, ethics, and
transparency are critical for building
trust with your staff. To paraphrase
US president John Kennedy, “you can
convince the world you are in earnest,
only if you are in earnest.”
• Flexibility: Being able to adapt to
changing circumstances and remain
flexible in your approach can help you
navigate unexpected challenges and
opportunities. Being creative or openminded
will not serve you if you don’t
adopt the flexibility to implement.
• Strong work ethic: Leading by example
and setting high standards for yourself and
your staff can help you achieve your goals
106 | August 2023

Business Strategy
and drive success. This is not only in terms
of effort but also the spirit in which this
effort is implemented.
• Curiosity: Being curious and seeking out
new knowledge and skills can help you stay
informed about industry trends and develop
your leadership skills.
I’m sure there’s room for expanding this list;
however, for now it’s better to be concise.
No matter how good you are in any of these
areas, any improvement will get you even
greater rewards.
Making decisions work for you
If you ever wonder why some days you hit
the pillow feeling absolutely exhausted even
though you’ve done very little physically,
spare a thought for the effort your brain has
put in that day.
It’s estimated the brain uses around 20
per cent of our ideal daily calorie intake, or
around 300-400 calories per day and it’s
little wonder after a study by the University
of Leicester in the UK found that we typically
make around 35,000 decisions every day!
No wonder we can’t wait to crawl into bed
each night!
Unfortunately, not all these decisions are
good ones, regardless of the energy we
might burn. In his 2007 book Black Swan,
Nassim Nicholas Taleb details the two
primary ways we make decisions.
‘System one’ is immediate – which was
designed to provide us with the flight of
fight mentality for early survival. We didn’t
always have time to study a threat coming
toward us, we had to rely on intuition to
quicken the process.
Unfortunately, we still rely rather heavily on
system one which is automatic, experiencebased,
fast, and effortless. This appeals
strongly to us as by instinct we enjoy
exerting minimal effort!
‘System two’ is cognitive – it requires us
to think, to study and to apply reason. It is
slower and less intuitive and consumes
more time and energy which can be tiring.
Add a little structure
Sadly, because of the relative ease, many
of us rely on the emotional responses of
system one to issues which while simpler,
can tap into our many biases and lead to
poorer quality decision-making.
A structured decision-making process
can provide you with better results, or at
the very least, a pathway to discovering
where you have erred. Here are some
of the key steps I consider important in
making a structured decision.
• Gather information: Unfortunately we
don’t always get all the information we
need before reaching a conclusion. Time
can work against you in this regard but
you should try to get as much together as
possible within the limitations provided.
• Identify the problem: You can’t fix an
issue if you haven’t identified exactly what it
is and what caused it.
• Know the ideal outcome: How do you
define a successful conclusion? What is
it that you want? We can be guilty of not
defining the ideal scenario leading to
frustration when we can’t seem to reach a
satisfactory conclusion.
• Consider the options and study them: Are
you being objective? Are you using system
one or system two?
Although this is an exercise in thought be
careful to avoid creating too many options
which can lead to ‘analysis’ paralysis’.
• Seek advice: Is there anyone else
who can provide additional input to the
process? Who might have the information
KEYS TO
IMPROVING
DECISION
MAKING
Visualise
the outcome
Envision a future
where the issue is
resolved.
Consider and
consult
Consider all
possible actions
and speak with
those ‘in the
know’.
Test and
execute
Test or trial your
solutions where
possible, and
then execute
with conviction.
Review
Measure the
results after the
decision is made
and learn from
the process.
that you don’t have?
Remember that you learn more from
failure than from success. You must not
allow failure to stop you, as failure builds
character.
• Test your assumptions: Can you trial your
preferred option with minimal risk or outlay
before you commit? The less risk there is in
the outcome the more confidence you can
approach the issue with.
• Make a decision: This is sometimes
the hardest part! At some point you must
commit to an outcome.
The more thorough your process has
been the more confident you can feel
about the result.
• Review and evaluate: Has the correct
decision been made? If not, what changes
need to be implemented? Always be
willing to change your mind if your original
decision was wrong.
As author Melissa Steginus tells us: “The
review is essential to evaluation, which is
essential to progress.”
Although this is a simplistic approach to
planning, the steps involved will give you a
strong basis to systemise your approach
problem-solving.
Gut intuition can be a good start; however, it
doesn’t provide you with all the information
you need to reach an effective conclusion.
Spend a little more time thinking, if
nothing else the extra calories burned
might just be that diet supplement you’ve
been looking for!
DAVID BROWN is co-founder
and business mentor with Retail
Edge Consultants. Learn more:
retailedgeconsultants.com
August 2023 | 107

BUSINESS
Selling
The secrets to selling jewellery to women
n hat ays can e use the conentions of the ast, to benefit our businesses today
BERNADETTE MCCELLELAND looks back on sales wisdom from the 1960s.
I was recently preparing for a move
and while cleaning out my office, I
discovered a business manual that
was published back in 1964 – before
I even started school!
The book was the original Success
Motivation Institute manual, complete
with transcriptions produced by Paul
J Meyer. Right at the very back of the
book, written by author and sales trainer
Dottie Walters, was a small tab titled
‘The seven secrets of selling to women.’
I was immediately curious as to what
information or wisdom could still be
applicable today, even when applied
through the lens of a bygone era.
I’m sure you’ll agree that over the past six
decades, perspectives on men and women
in business have changed significantly!
With that said, let’s examine some of
the more timeless wisdom imparted
by Walters.
Agree with them
Bruce Barton, the father of modern
advertising, suggests we apply some
wisdom from the Bible when selling to
women – ‘agree with our adversary, early.’
The book details a disagreement between
a husband and wife. When the husband
objects to an evening out on the town, the
wife prepares his favourite dinner, grabs
his coat and before he knows it, they’re off
for a date!
The trick, Walters suggests, is to agree
with your opponent at first, so that they will
relax their guard.
I can imagine every self-respecting
woman around the world reading this
tidbit and rolling their eyes. While I think
it is important to acknowledge someone’s
opinions or beliefs, there is a big difference
between ‘acknowledging and agreeing’ –
and dare, I say it, trickery!
In sales, we have to be mindful of
when any customer presents a belief
that we don’t agree with – and that is
to respectfully push back, break the
pattern and reframe that point.
After all, we need to bring insight into our
conversations with customers; losing that
need to be ‘liked’ is the first step.
Praise the customer
“Praise can be used in a million ways. If
you can think of the fussy woman as really
being fastidious, you will be able to praise
her for it. The indirect compliment is very
successful,” Walters writes.
“A further use of the indirect compliment
is to say something nice about a woman
in her hearing to someone else. When you
praise a woman, she feels she has to live
up to it; she doesn’t want to prove you’re
wrong in your good estimate of her.”
Female customers are smart, sassy, and
more vocal today than ever before and that
also means their ability to detect deception
is more finely calibrated.
We are not needy humans eager to
please for the sake of pleasing, so please
don’t compliment a woman for the sake
of complimenting her! It’s completely
inappropriate.
Appreciation
The book stresses the importance of
gratitude, and I think we can all agree that
this is timeless advice when it comes to
customer service.
All consumers enjoy gratitude and
appreciation – it is an intrinsic motivator
and has so much more value than dangling
material ‘carrots’ – or relying on other
people’s opinions of us.
Appreciation
is what holds
people in their
roles, partners
in their
relationships
and customers
coming back
for more – male
or female!
A little note here or a phone call
there – a pat on the back or a ‘thank
you’, too. Appreciation is what holds
people in their roles, partners in their
relationships and customers coming
back for more – male or female!
Ask them to help you
“Not only do women love to help, but
they especially enjoy it if they have the
opportunity to make a sacrifice at the
same time,” Walters writes.
“Now, this isn’t a sick idea! Women
somehow know that one of the great
pleasures of this life is the privilege
of self-sacrifice.”
Sadly, in my opinion, this type of
thinking still has a systemic and
generational influence on many women
today - and indeed, men too.
When you consider many senior
leaders in business have grown up
in family environments based on this
conditioning, it is only natural that there
be some unintentional and unconscious
bias retained in their DNA.
This may well be one of the final
bastions in reaching true ‘equality’.
Awareness is always the first step to
changing this and breaking the bias.
The times they are a-changin’
At the end of the day, men and women
both bring differing perspectives and
values to business.
When it comes to selling jewellery,
there’s no need to rely on tired cliches
about the differences between men and
women – what works best is timeless
practical advice that has proven
accurate in both 1964 and 2023.
The residue from bygone eras is still
visible; however, only time will enable
that narrative to evolve.
BERNADETTE MCCLELLAND is a
keynote speaker, executive sales
coach, and published author.
Learn More: bernadettemcclelland.com
108 | August 2023

BUSINESS
Management
Don’t be afraid to break the rules
Do your employees understand the line in the sand? SHEP HYKEN encourages
you to ‘break the rules’ to demonstrate your commitment to your employees.
There is a significant benefit to
empowering your employees to break the
rules for their customers.
What I mean by breaking the rules is
to consider what you can do for a
customer outside of the norm that
doesn’t cost the business money, and
isn’t illegal or immoral.
It’s not about breaking any real rules
– it’s about finding ways to take care
of the customer that goes beyond
traditional conventions.
One of the concepts I often cover involves
the idea of the ‘line in the sand.’ Many
businesses train their employees in what
they can’t do for customers. They have
rules that have little or no flexibility.
While it’s essential for employees to
be trained on what they shouldn’t do, it
may be more important to train them on
what they can do. By that, I mean how far
employees are allowed to go before they
have to say ‘no’. I call this the line in the
sand concept.
You should teach the employees of your
jewellery store how close they can get
to this line before they’ve gone too far,
because it’s this level of effort that creates
loyalty from customers.
For example, I have a client in the luxury
vehicle market. This client has a staff that
travels to dealerships to help sales staff
with demanding customers they can’t
seem to please. Members of this staff
believe in the power of saying ‘yes’ instead
of ‘no.’ They have the authority to refund
the entire price of the vehicle.
That’s their line in the sand – their
last resort. They’re well-trained and
have always found other ways to make
customers happy without going too far.
The key is training, but it isn’t just imparted
in one educational session. It’s about
continuously sharing stories of what other
employees are doing to meet the needs
and demands of customers, all without
crossing the line in the sand.
When an employee does something right,
congratulate them and share the example
with the rest of your store. If they do
something wrong, or in other words - if
they cross the line - turn it into a learning
opportunity that is also shared.
Routinely spreading examples helps
employees recognise the hidden
opportunities that will lead to a loyal
customer base. Some examples of
breaking the rules might be honouring a
warranty that expired a month earlier – or
stretching a 14-day return policy to the
15th or 16th day.
Customers should feel like your business
is on their side and is willing to be flexible.
This gives them a reason to say “I’ll be
back!” And repeat sales are the lifeblood of
any retail business.
Time to upgrade?
Many years ago, a friend shared some
advice with me - it doesn’t cost much more
to enjoy a first-class experience.
He was referring to spending a little
more in certain situations to enhance the
experience. It could be a nicer hotel, a
better seat in a theatre, a better cut of meat
at the butcher, and more. He found that it
often doesn’t cost much more to upgrade.
So, I started thinking about this advice and
how we can apply it to the jewellery store
customer experience.
Essentially, I was thinking that we can
proactively give our customers a better
experience by bumping our efforts up
Customers
should feel like
your business
is on their side
and is willing
to be flexible.
This gives them
a reason to say
“I’ll be back!”
And repeat
sales are the
lifeblood of any
retail business.
a notch. In most cases, it doesn’t cost
much - if anything - to do so. The secret is
applying some thought and maybe a little
extra effort.
A few years ago, I had the honor
of working with Lexus. After the
presentation, the client sent me an
amazing testimonial about my speech;
however, there was something else that
I felt incredibly proud of. The client also
wrote about the experience my staff
provided. Specifically, it said, “from start
to finish, you offered nothing but Lexuslike
professionalism and courtesy to our
program staff and dealer associates.”
What did I do to deserve that accolade?
Looking back, I did what most good
people – or businesses – would do for
their customers. I returned calls and
emails quickly, I was proactive with my
communication and I met deadlines. On
the day of the speech, I showed up early.
In short, I did everything I promised and
what was expected. And none of that cost
me anything extra.
What is the investment to call someone
back? If a customer reaches out to you
via a call or email, and you intend to
respond, why wait and risk frustrating
the customer? You’re going to return the
call or write the email anyway, so why not
try to do it in a timely manner?
Sometimes upgrading a customer to a
first-class experience has nothing to do
with money. It has to do with attention and
respect. It is what you would do anyway.
Being purposeful about little things that
are expected and cost nothing – or next
to nothing – can go a long way in getting
a customer to think of your business as a
first-class organisation.
SHEP HYKEN is a speaker and New
York Times and Wall Street Journal
best-selling author who works with
companies to build loyal relationships
with customers and employees.
Visit: hyken.com
August 2023 | 109

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
Perception is the name of our game
How does the community around your business view your store?
DAVE WAKEMAN highlights the importance of perception management.
For the past several months,
jewellery retailers have been dealing
with an environment dominated by
uncertain signals.
These include warnings of a potential
recession that are stacked on top of the
ongoing impact of increasing cost-ofliving
pressures.
The major challenge faced by many
business owners is that these confusing
signals have led to decreasing sales while
jewellers plan for demand challenges.
This is brought about by declining levels of
engagement, changing consumer buying
habits, and increased competition.
This leaves business owners with a
simple question: “How do we navigate
these circumstances?”
There isn’t an easy answer to this question,
or a straightforward proposal to consider.
Instead, I encourage you to consider the
importance of perception, which is at the
heart of all business.
What do I mean by perception?
Think about perception as a
management tool that you can use to
frame your business, the products you
sell, and the services you provide in the
best possible light.
Why does this matter? Jewellery, watches,
and accessories are designed to enhance
our natural beauty.
Jewellery specifically creates a presence,
and occasionally a sense of mystique.
My suggestion is that you create the same
atmosphere for your business. Focus on
emotions: The saying ‘emotion makes
people move’ is accurate. It is truer
when we see people make purchases of
jewellery and watches.
For example, I use a Mont Blanc pen. It is
big, heavy, and beautiful, however; it’s not
easy to write with for long stretches. Why
do I use it then?
The reason I use this pen is that I want to
give the impression that I’m the kind of
person that casually carries a Mont Blanc!
My purchase has been driven by emotion
and is motivated by the perception of those
around me.
Focus on positives
Consider the tagline of Swiss watch
company Edox – ‘Timing for Champions’.
To the company’s target market, this
suggests that their watches aren’t
concerned with simply telling the time -
they’re focused on success.
After all, if you want to tell the time, your
phone does a fine job of that!
The message this marketing sends is that
if you want to be seen as a ‘champion”,
Edox is the brand for you.
Even in the worst economic environment,
there are still positives in people’s lives –
moments worth celebrating. Your business
should reflect this reality and the role your
products play in marking those moments.
Want another example?
You’ve likely heard about the ‘engagement
gap’ occurring as fallout from the COVID-
Think about
perception as a
management
tool that you
can use to
frame your
business, the
products you
sell, and the
services you
provide in the
best possible
light.
pandemic lockdowns continues. Fewer
people are getting engaged.
With that said, couples are still renewing
their vows - maybe they want to refresh
their rings?
Even in a situation where consumer sales
are declining, we still witness people
spending their money on fashion and
accessories. That’s a significant positive
phenomenon for the jewellery industry.
As jewellery retailers, we should be
highlighting the way our products enhance
special occasions so that any perception of
‘nice to have’ becomes ‘a necessity’.
Remember the power of the ‘evergreen’:
some products are likely to stand the test
of time. Your business should invest in
those kinds of offerings. Every woman I
know loves a pair of pearl earrings!
The rise of the Apple Watch has renewed
many people’s enthusiasm for and interest
in watches. Apple has renewed the
perception of the public that watches are
an important staple of any outfit.
Recently, I had a colleague mention
that, “My Rolex isn’t a timepiece, it’s a
symbol.” It’s a symbol of wealth, power,
and importance. These are all matters
of perception!
The point to remember is that no matter
the economic environment, we still have
the power to control the perception of our
stores, our products, and our services to
our target market.
You can control the actions taken to
create the impression that your jewellery,
watches, and accessories are items that
are timeless, important, and valuable.
It’s all a matter of perception and during
uncertain times, it becomes more
important than ever that your business is
viewed the right light.
DAVE WAKEMAN is a consultant, writer,
and teacher who believes in profits in
business and not promises. Learn more:
www.davewakeman.com
110 | August 2023

BUSINESS
Logged On
Turn your negative reviews into positive experiences
Even the best businesses must deal with negative feedback from time to time.
DALE FURTWENGLER elains ho you can aoid maing a bad situation orse ith conict resolution
In the jewellery trade, customers can be
fickle and difficult to please. These same
customers often have no issue airing
their grievances online either, which can
be heart-breaking for store owners and
hard-working sales staff.
Over the years I’ve been asked on numerous
occasions to do a program on conflict
resolution; however, I’ve always refused.
It’s too late - conflict already exists! Instead,
I offer a program on conflict prevention. In
other words, I prefer getting ahead of the
curve. Why wait for a problem to surface to
fix it when you can avoid the problem?
It’s important to remember that nothing
works 100 per cent of the time. There must
be a party on the other side of the potential
conflict who also desires to avoid conflict. If
someone is begging for a fight, there’s little
that can be done to avoid conflict other than
walking away.
Any retailer knows that sometimes you
have no choice but to deal with one of
these kinds of difficult customers. With
that said, consider the following pointers
on preventing unhappy customers from
spreading their negativity to others.
Disagreement
It’s important to learn how to disagree with
someone without creating resistance that
could escalate to conflict.
Our natural tendency when we disagree
with someone is to use facts and logic to
show them the error of their thinking. None
of us likes admitting we’re wrong because
we fear losing the trust and confidence
others have in us, so we resist.
The more we resist the more adamant the
other party becomes in proving us wrong
until the exchange devolves into conflict.
You can avoid this potential for conflict by
asking questions such as:
• How does that work when…?
• What would happen if…?
• How would that work in this [situation]?
• Is it true that…?
• Could we…?
By adding these simple phrases to the
beginning of whatever you were going
to say, you avoid disagreeing with what
the person said. Instead, you ask an
exploratory question.
The result is that the person reflects
on their thinking and, if you’re correct
in your thinking, hopefully reaches the
same conclusion you have with the added
advantage that they validate their new
conclusion with their own experiences.
Not only is conflict avoided with this
approach, but the other person is also
more likely to embrace your idea and act
on it because they’ve validated it with their
experiences. There is one other element
that is essential to the success of this
approach. You must be willing to consider
that you’re wrong in your assessment of
the situation.
When the response to your question
indicates that you have overlooked a key
element to the solution, you have to be
willing to acknowledge that and embrace
the other person’s position.
Acknowledge your contribution
As you find your interaction with others
devolving into conflict, take a moment to
reflect on how this tension has arisen.
Ask yourself: How have I contributed to
this escalation? If applicable, readily admit
your contribution to the problem. The
majority of the time you’ll find that the
walls of defense crumble and the other
party will say “I could have handled that
better myself.”
None of us likes
admitting we’re
wrong because
we fear losing
the trust and
confidence
others have in
us, so we resist.”
The result is an avoidance of conflict with
the added bonuses of a mutually agreeable
solution and a retained, if not strengthened,
relationship with the other party.
Suspending judgment
Many conflicts arise because we judge what
someone has done as either good or bad. We
may even have extended that judgment to the
person.
These judgements are emotional reactions
that cannot be prevented; they occur
automatically in response to what we’re
experiencing.
When you feel yourself judging others or
what they’ve done, take a moment.
Allow the emotion to subside - this will
enable you to suspend judgment so that you
can deal with the person in a manner that is
respectful, yet enables you to set boundaries
on what behaviours are acceptable and
which are not.
Training yourself to suspend judgment not
only helps you avoid conflict, it creates an
attitude of mutual respect and consideration
for all parties involved.
Deflected pain
Earlier, I mentioned situations in which one
party is spoiling for a fight. I suggested that
you may have to walk away to avoid conflict.
Before you walk away, realise that many
people who are wanting to fight, or inflict
emotional pain upon you, are in pain
themselves. They are deflecting their own
pain in hopes of mitigating it.
Remember that with practice your mind
will be capable of moving through these
resolution tactics with lightning speed.
Once you’ve identified which of these will
help you avoid conflict, employ it. You’ll be
thrilled with the result.
DALE FURTWENGLER is a public
speaker, author, and the founder of
Teaching Confidence.
Learn more: teachingconfidence.com
August 2023 | 111

My Bench
James Andrews
James Andrews Jeweller
Age 43 • Years in Trade 27 • Training Jewellery apprenticeship • First job Chris Andrews Jewellers • ther aifiations Matrix Gold and Rhino Gold CAD designer
SIGNATURE PIECE
DIAMOND AND PLATINUM BANGLE.
The customer came to me with the five large diamonds that
are at the centre of the bangle. The diamond split band worked
out perfectly and then came the construction of the hinged box
clasp and then the magical ‘8’ clasp ensuring extra security.
The remaining smalls were supplied and set by myself. I
absolutely loved the outcome and it fit perfectly for the client
while showcasing the diamonds. That’s what a true bespoke is –
a handmade piece showcasing high skill and finesse.
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Spinel.
4FAVOURITE METAL Yellow gold and platinum.
4FAVOURITE TOOL Saw frame.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Nothing I can really
think of – old tools are always new tools when
they’re well respected.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB My customers.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB
Nothing at all – seriously.
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER There’s too many
to list, but many thanks to my father – Chris
Andrews – and my fellow jewellers Tony Walker
and Dan Shadwick for everything they’ve taught
me. Much respect.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Always be honest,
and never be lazy.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Eyesight!
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It’s genius creative
art if you’re talented.
112 | August 2023

OPINION
Soapbox
How do you remain relevant in the modern
world as a traditional family jeweller?
The jewellery trade has deep roots. IRENE DEUTSCH says that while traditional is important,
it’s vital that your business changes with the times.
The world of retail can be an everchanging
beast presenting the typical
jeweller with constant challenges.
Cast your mind back over the past decade
and reflect on the increasing impact social
media, digital devices, and the internet have
had on the way which we conduct business.
Consider changes in consumer sentiment
and the rise in popularity of large luxury
brands, just to name a few key shifts in
the landscape.
This leaves us with an important question:
how does a business remain relevant?
This is a challenge that my business –
Fairfax & Roberts – has faced for 165 years.
It’s a challenge I’m sure you’re more than
familiar with given the nature of the trade.
Running a jewellery store involves many
long, hard hours of work each week.
For independent stores, many of them
family-owned, finding the balance
between completing orders, dealing with
customers, and negotiating with suppliers
can be all-encompassing.
This schedule leaves little time to stay
ahead of the latest trends, study emerging
technologies, and stay ahead of the game!
Staying relevant is not an easy challenge,
however; in my opinion, it comes down to
a few core principles.
Trust is paramount
Trust is everything in the jewellery
industry – whether it be the relationship
between retailers and suppliers,
storeowners and employees, or the
business and its customers.
Making your customers your number one
priority is something many business experts
speak of, however; few mention why it’s such
an important consideration.
We know that purchasing jewellery is a
personal and emotional experience, and the
foundation of that experience is the trust
customers place in a business.
Modern consumers increasingly come
from a default position of distrust, and the
costs of rebuilding trust with a disheartened
customer can be significant.
While the consequences of losing trust are
often immediately visible, the hidden effects
are long-term. In an environment of distrust
and increasing competition, businesses
must elevate the importance of trust.
An important aspect of the longevity of
our business has been our loyal customer
base, who have a firm understanding and
appreciation of who we are and what we do.
That cannot be jeopardised!
Bespoke beauty is timeless
Irrespective of their age, all of our
customers choose us because of the
bespoke experience they receive at
Fairfax & Roberts. Our staff make it a
priority to willingly share their knowledge to
educate clients about everything that goes
into making their special piece.
The customer will receive something not
only beautiful but also meaningful and
personal; the ability to be creative and
own something that is unique is what sets
us apart from the suppliers of massproduced
jewellery.
The passion for this kind of meaningful
jewellery isn’t going away anytime soon.
There is still a strong appreciation for
artisanal craftsmanship – the fact that
we continue to use traditional techniques
that have been used for hundreds of years
is very special.
Authenticity
Our staff take pride in creating beautiful
jewellery, providing exceptional customer
service and demonstrating a deep
commitment to our customers.
This is reflected in the trust customers in
turn place in our business, and believe me,
An important
aspect of the
longevity of our
business has
been our loyal
customer base,
who have a firm
understanding
and
appreciation
of who are and
what we do.
That cannot be
jeaopardised!
when a business is operating without that
authenticity, customers know it.
Just as you should never try to be someone
you’re not, a business should not try to be
something it isn’t.
A genuine desire to create jewellery
which symbolises memories that will last
generations attracts customers of all
ages and backgrounds.
At times, it’s difficult for even the most
motivated jewellers to stay engaged with
their work, however; you can’t afford to
let that impact how your customers view
your business.
Choose to remain relevant
While we're proud of our heritage and
traditions, we're constantly innovating and
adapting to stay ahead of the curve.
We keep up to date with the latest trends
and technologies and communicate with all
of the generations that we deal with in the
format they prefer to be dealt with.
We don’t stick our heads in the sand with
regard to any trend! Everything is worthy of
some consideration, so long as it doesn’t
betray any of the aforementioned values.
Choosing to remain relevant is an active
decision we make each day. It’s a decision I
encourage every jeweller to make, because
the alternative is falling behind the times.
I am proud to say that through the above
principles, we have generations of
families continuing to visit us when the
time comes to mark a special occasion
with fine jewellery.
As long as they are all happy with the
outcome, so are we!
Name: Irene Deutsch
Business: Fairfax & Roberts
Position: Owner and managing director
Location: Sydney, NSW
Years in the industry: 3
114 | August 2023

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