Jeweller - March 2024

REVIEW
Gems
Gemmologists who changed the game:
Serving an industry amid constantly evolution
Over the past six issues of Jeweller magazine,
we’ve taken a closer look at the many
gemmologists who have transformed the
industry over the years.
In this issue, we will take a temporary break
from biographical reflections on influential
individuals and instead focus on the changing
nature of the field.
Gemmologists are, in many ways, the ‘unsung
heroes’ in the world of gemstones and jewellery.
They are pivotal in an industry built on beauty,
rarity, and value.
Contrary to popular belief, gemmology is not
a recent development. Of course, gemstones
in various forms have been used by humans
as adornment and for displays of wealth since
the beginnings of civilisation. The roots of
gemmology as a scientific field can be traced, at
a minimum, to the 1800s.
Serious formal education in the science of
gemmology was documented in the early 20th
century when the first courses in gemmology
emerged through organisations such as the
Gemmological Association of Great Britain,
founded in 1908, followed by the Gemmological
Institute of America, founded in 1931.
Since then, gemmological training institutions,
including the Gemmological Association of
Australia (GAA), founded in 1945, have increased
worldwide, creating new generations of experts
who serve as the industry’s backbone.
Some of Australia’s leading gemmologists
include Bill Sechos, Terry Coldham, Grant Hamid,
Kym Hughes, Jan Vlanzy, Grant Pearson, Garry
Holloway and Francine Payette.
These scientists are building on the legacy of the
founders of GAA – including Jack Taylor, Arthur
Wirth, Sandy Tombs, and more recently, Geoff
Tombs, Grahame Brown, Patricia Callaway, Pat
Reis, Corinne Sutherland, Bob Bubeck, Suzette
Fairley, and Des Bumstead.
New challenges
In the past, the duties of gemmologists revolved
around basic gemstone identification and
distinguishing natural gemstones from their
synthetic counterparts. However, as the industry
evolved, so did the role of the gemmologist.
Today, they face increasingly complex challenges,
Influential Australian gemmologists: Corinne Sutherland, Geoff Tombs and Grant Hamid in 1980.
from identifying newly treated gemstones to
determining the quality of precious stones such
as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.
To determine the value of gemstones, one must
complete a valuation course available in Australia
by the National Council of Jewellery Valuers.
With questions ranging from the authenticity of
diamonds to the stability of treated gemstones,
the expertise of trained gemmologists has
become indispensable to the jewellery industry.
Increasingly, low-grade gemstones are being
treated in various ways to increase their
preserved value for sale. New treatments need to
be detected and identified.
Organisations such as the GAA have been
instrumental in providing comprehensive training
programs, including diplomas in gemmology
and practical diamond grading, ensuring that
professionals are equipped to navigate the
complexities of the trade. These complexities can
vary from quench fluxed filled lab-created rubies
to B” jade, which refers to jadeite bleached with
acid and then impregnated with polymer resin.
Gemmology is a multifaceted science
encompassing the study of various gemstones,
ornamental materials, biological materials, and
lab-created (synthetic) substitutes and imitations.
As technology advances, both in terms of the
increasing array of imitations, synthetics,
and treatments entering the market and the
instruments needed to identify and describe
these advances, so do the challenges faced by
gemmologists. The importance of gemmological
education cannot be overstated in an industry
where confidence and knowledge are paramount.
Gemmologists trained by reputable institutions
such as the GAA possess the technical skills
needed to identify gemstones and understand
their work’s ethical and legal implications.
In summary, gemmologists play a vital role in
preserving the integrity and authenticity of the
gemstone and jewellery industry. Their expertise,
honed through rigorous training and practical
experience, ensures that with confidence,
jewellers can sell, and consumers can purchase
– secure in the knowledge that these precious
treasures are in safe hands.
Kathryn Wyatt BSc FGAA Dip DT, is a qualified
gemmologist, diamond technologist, registered
jewellery valuer, educator and member of the
Australian Antique & Art Dealers Association. For
more information on gems and gemmology, go to
www.gem.org.au
March 2024 | 31