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Highsnobiety Guide – Sneek Peak

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This mode of dress, and the<br />

act of bricolage re-contextualization<br />

that was so essential to it, greatly<br />

influenced Vivienne Westwood<br />

and Malcolm McLaren in the 1970s.<br />

Their shop Sex began selling<br />

gear like toilet chain<br />

necklaces, patchwork<br />

sport coats,, and graphic<br />

tees clearly meant to offend.<br />

Some of the more<br />

famous ones include the<br />

DESTROY T-shirt, depicting<br />

an inverted crucifix<br />

and a swastika, as well as<br />

Snow White and the Sir<br />

Punks, which features an<br />

unauthorized use of the<br />

Disney princess committing<br />

a sex act with all seven<br />

dwarfs. The shop<br />

gained further prominence<br />

when it was renamed<br />

Seditionaries in<br />

1976, Punk graphics, from<br />

the visual art of posters to<br />

graphic tees, heavily relied<br />

on collages, reinforcing<br />

the subculture’s<br />

penchant for mashing up<br />

different materials and ideas.<br />

Distressing and customization<br />

played an important part in punk<br />

style, often repurposing button-down<br />

shirts with graphics, royal<br />

stewart tartan trousers with zippers<br />

In the United States, The Ramones came to<br />

symbolize a more austere punk uniform, often clad<br />

in Schott Perfecto jackets, ripped Levi’s 501 denim,<br />

Chuck Taylor sneakers, and slim-fitting T-shirts,<br />

an influence that can still be seen today.<br />

on the backs of the legs, and bondage<br />

straps on trousers. British stylist<br />

Judy Blame rose to prominence<br />

during this era, and established a<br />

legacy of iconic punk aesthetics<br />

that made the culture even more<br />

credible in the fashion industry.<br />

In the United States, The<br />

Ramones came to symbolize a more<br />

austere punk uniform, often clad in<br />

Schott Perfecto jackets, ripped<br />

Levi’s 501 denim, Chuck Taylor<br />

sneakers, and slim-fitting T-shirts.<br />

This more casual take on punk style<br />

evolved to movements like Youth<br />

crew, a scene characterized by its<br />

moralist outlook, optimism, and<br />

penchant for sportswear staples<br />

like varsity jackets, military pants,<br />

shorts, band T-shirts, and sneakers<br />

from brands like New Balance.<br />

Labels like adidas and Champion<br />

were also popular. That movement<br />

also gave rise to straight edge culture,<br />

in which participants abstained<br />

from drugs and alcohol<br />

altogether.<br />

Punk’s influence stretched<br />

to Japan, where the in-your-face<br />

aesthetics resonated beyond the<br />

music. There, the subculture’s style<br />

influence inspired Rei Kawakubo at<br />

COMME des GARÇONS, whose<br />

deconstructed designs and use of<br />

unorthodox materials perfectly<br />

align with the established punk<br />

look. Jun Takahashi of<br />

UNDERCOVER was greatly influenced<br />

by the subculture, and his entire<br />

label carries forth some of<br />

punk’s most recognizable iconography,<br />

like anarchist symbolism,<br />

graphic print leather jackets, and<br />

extremely skinny trousers with zipper<br />

details. Hiroshi Fujiwara was an<br />

avid fan of the Seditionaries label,<br />

and went to great lengths to collect<br />

the apparel, eventually teaming up<br />

with Takahashi in 2005 on a limited-edition<br />

book showcasing the<br />

massive collection of gear they’ve<br />

accrued over the years.<br />

Today, punk continues to be<br />

an important reference for streetwear<br />

brands and fashion designers<br />

alike. Young Los Angeles designer<br />

Shane Gonzales first discovered<br />

early punk bands while playing the<br />

Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater as a child,<br />

and retroactively discovered The<br />

Punk continues to be an important reference point<br />

for young streetwear brands like Shane Gonzales’<br />

MIDNIGHT STUDIOS and acclaimed fashion<br />

designers like Jun Takahashi of UNDERCOVER.<br />

Sex Pistols and other groups, directly<br />

inspiring his MIDNIGHT STUDIOS<br />

label. Supreme has done collaborations<br />

using the graphics of The<br />

Misfits for its Spring 2013 collection,<br />

and the Dead Kennedys for its<br />

Spring 2014 collection. That same<br />

year it also partnered with artist<br />

Raymond Pettibon, known for designing<br />

the logo of punk band Black<br />

Flag, on a capsule collection of tees,<br />

hoodies, and skateboard decks.<br />

Musically, the punk attitude<br />

and aesthetic have been succeeded<br />

by a new wave of hip-hop acts.<br />

California crew Odd Future—led<br />

by Tyler, the Creator—gained attention<br />

for their shocking lyrical<br />

content and visuals, and performances<br />

that recreated the raw,<br />

youthful energy reminiscent of a<br />

punk show. Other artists like Travis<br />

Scott and Lil Uzi Vert embody a<br />

modern spirit of punk, both in their<br />

bold fashion choices and their ability<br />

to turn any of their performances<br />

into an instant mosh pit. The<br />

message is clear: punk’s spirit is<br />

still very much alive.<br />

307

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