Folsom El Dorado Hills, July 2018

Back Bistro
Shrimp and Polenta
Polished Plates with Pizzazz
by LORN RANDALL // photos by DANTE FONTANA
Longtime Folsom favorite Back Bistro recently made the
leap from its cozy, neighborhood location to the glitz
and glamour of a 4,500-square-foot destination at the
Palladio. Featuring an impressive craft cocktail bar
that commands attention as soon as you enter, the
restaurant also serves up the same quality fare that
made loyal fans of its original customers—with a few
new dishes and a boutique wine selection.
I started with the sautéed artichoke hearts, whose
presentation was a bit of a surprise, as it’s served “bruschetta style”—
topped with olives, fennel confit, capers, roasted garlic, and the namesake
artichoke hearts over grilled French bread. The real plot twist, however,
was the white wine cream sauce the sliced baguettes were perched atop—a
very creative and tasty application, indeed.
Next came the warm arugula salad with pancetta, quinoa, red onions,
toasted almonds, and shaved Parmesan. The balsamic dressing was applied
sparingly (thank you), and the tasty, texture-rich toppings were the perfect
pairing to the peppery baby arugula.
As I ordered “steak and potatoes,” the server asked if I wanted to “surf
and turf” it. He barely got the words out of his mouth when I hit him with
a resounding “yes!” The resulting plate featured grilled steak over fondant
potatoes and garlic aioli with a skewered shrimp crowning each of the three
brochettes. Not surprisingly, this is one of Back Bistro's most requested small
plates, and if you’re just looking for a quick bite, there’s plenty of protein here
to hold you over.
Warm Arugula Salad
Between this and the other two starters, I was content, but all willpower went
out the window when I saw the bistro’s version of shrimp and grits. Ever since ordering and falling in
love with the dish at Luke in New Orleans, I’m tempted to try it everywhere. Whether it’s breakfast
(with a poached egg), lunch, or dinner, I’m a devout fan, and Back’s entry hit the mark. The option here
featured an Italian twist (creamy polenta in lieu of grits) but still boasted some of the NOLA traditions
(andouille sausage and roasted tomatoes).
I’m sure I didn’t need dessert at this point, but when a menu offers “The Famous Triple Pot de Crème,”
how can you not find out if it lives up to its nom de plume? After all, it’s French pudding…right? You’ll
have to stop by Back Bistro and see for yourself (spoiler alert: My “pot” was spotless).
HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
(Sunday-Tuesday), 11
a.m.-10 p.m. (Wednesday-
Thursday), 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
(Friday-Saturday)
TRY THIS: Sautéed
Artichoke Hearts, Warm
Arugula Salad, Ahi Poke,
Steak and Potatoes, Loaded
Baked Potato Flatbread,
Shrimp and Polenta, Vegan
Fried Rice, Petaluma
Chicken, Braised Short Ribs,
Triple Pot de Crème
DRINKS: Full bar; beer,
wine, and cocktails
TAB: $$
HEADS-UP: Spacious
patio; private events
and restaurant buyouts
available; daily Happy
Hour from 4-6 p.m. and
10-11 p.m. (Friday-Saturday);
vegetarian and vegan
entrées; daily lunch menu
from 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.;
extensive wine list; monthly,
three-course prix fixe menu
with optional wine pairings;
craft cocktails include five
types of “mules”
Sautéed Artichoke Hearts
Triple Pot de Crème
Back Bistro, 230 Palladio Parkway, Suite 1201, Folsom, 916-986-9100, backbistro.com
JULY 2018 // stylefedh.com 69