October 2011 issue of Freedom's Phoenix magazine - fr33aid

Edible Fruits of Shrubs and Vines
By Powell Gammill
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LAST month I discussed
fruit and nut trees. This
month I would like to briefly
expand to two other categories
of fruit producers:
shrubs and vines.
Interestingly, citrus trees were evolved by man
from shrubs. This is why they behave differently
from deciduous fruit trees. Like trees, shrubs
and many vines are woody plants. Some can
grow quite tall. But generally they are respectively
thought of as bushy, or long and spindly.
Yet this is somewhat dependent upon pruning.
Some shrubs or vines can exist in either form
depending upon the environment in which it is
growing.
A lot of berries are born on what we consider to
be shrubs for example, blueberries, blackberries
and cranberries. But sometimes a vine looks
more like a shrub, for example an older grape
vine in a vineyard...in fact if allowed a grape
vine can get big enough to look like a tree. And
besides grapes, vines can also bear other lovely
fruit such as kiwis and passion fruit.
Shrubs and vines are generally perennial or biennials
(two year life cycle). Often not immediately
thought of when discussing vines: melons,
pumpkins and tomatoes, for example, are
annuals and will be discussed more in annual
gardens in a future article.
Vines can climb (vertical) or trail (horizontal).
Various mechanisms are used by vines in climbing
and attaching to support such as an adjacent
tree or man-made trellis, fence or netting.
Some vines and shrubs can be highly invasive
depending upon their environment. You should
check the species against reports in your state
or you and your neighbors may end up battling
what you plant for real estate.
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Shrubs and vines have multiple uses. In this
case, food is the primary one. But for example,
they can provide shade overhead in the case
of trellised vines, privacy in the case of a wall
(hedge) made of shrubs, defining a pathway,
crime control when placed in front of windows
or along fences and bearing thorns, animal control,
animal shelter and food, wind control and
to hide unsightly objects or fencing.
Unlike trees, most shrubs and vines are producing
food in their second year...some in their first.
They will usually grow very fast. They are often
easy to propagate by cloning.
Planting
General rule: Half of what a tree gets: A 2 x 2
foot hole. Dig a shallow trench (swale) around
the crown ("tree-line") for watering. Climbing
vines will need a suitable support for them to
climb. Don't dismiss using a tree to get a two for
one food production though a tree may shade
out the vine lowering its food production. Trailing
vines will either run along the ground or be
tied to a support as they extend their growth off
the ground.
Shade
Some exhibit partial shade (4 - 6 hours of direct
sunlight a day) tolerance: Elderberry, Evergreen
and Red Huckleberry, and Gooseberry.
Evergreen huckleberry and currants can do well
in complete shade but fruit production may be
reduced. But this allows cultivation in northern
sides of property and other areas completely
shaded.
Wind
Shrubs are generally very wind resistant and can
be helped in this respect by keeping the center
pruned out and open. Additionally they can act
as wind barriers protecting other more sensitive
plants from prevailing winds.
Water
Water to two feet deep. Re-water when water
level has shrunk to six inches. Usually water
twice as often as trees.
Mulch as per trees.
Pruning
Remember why we prune? Consider the fruiting
style of the shrub or vine. Some of these
plants fruit on last year's growth, others on new
growth. This will dictate what should and should
not be pruned. It is possible to greatly harm a
fruit bearing shrub by cutting with hedge trimmers
for shape as this produces a packed dead
interior over time. Also fruiting shrubs often
fruit at their ends. Shrubs that bloom early in
the growing season on last year’s growth should
be pruned immediately after they finish blooming.
These are general rules, and pruning involves
helping create new foliage for fruit to appear
upon and removing foliage that fruit will no longer
be borne upon. I am afraid each species and
frequently different varieties within a species
are pruned differently. You will have to look up
and keep in mind which technique to apply for
each plant.
Shrubs can be trimmed and formed into any desired
shape. For example, shapes can be made
for artistic reasons, barrier reasons, to promote
fruit protection from sun or wind, to promote air
flow to prevent a damp disease forming in the
interior environment or usually to encourage
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