Jeweller - August Issue 2018

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
AUGUST 2018
Top tech
EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS PUSHING
THE JEWELLERY LANDSCAPE
Bezel boys
+ +
MEN’S AND SPORTS WATCHES
CONTINUE TO EXCEL
Gem fields
DELVING INTO THE SAPPHIRE FIELDS
OF ETHIOPIA

Registered trademark and designs. Patents pending - Copyright © 2018 Altesse.
Mix, Match & Colour
Made in France
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• AUSTRALIA • BELGIUM • CANADA • GERMANY • INDIA • JAPAN • SPAIN • TAIWAN • UNITED KINGDOM • USA • NEW ZEALAND

S

EQUIPMENT INNOVATIONS PUSHING
THE JEWELLERY LANDSCAPE
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
MEN’S AND SPORTS WATCHES
CONTINUE TO EXCEL
AUGUST 2018
DELVING INTO THE SAPPHIRE FIELDS
OF ETHIOPIA
CONTENTS
AUGUST 2018
21/
31/
43/
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS
21/ INDUSTRY TECH
How technology is re-shaping
the jewellery sector
31/ MAKING THE MAN
A look at men’s and sports
watch trends
43/ SAPPHIRE FIELDS
An exploration into the
gemstone fields of Ethiopia
9/ Editorial
11/ Upfront
15/ News
49/ Gems
Colour investigation: tourmaline
50/ ARA
57/ MyStore
Be inspired by the most
unique store layouts around
58/ 10 Years Ago
59/ Calendar
60/ My Bench
62/ Soapbox
We must preserve the mystique
of manufactured jewellery,
Alfie Gryg urges
51/ Business feature
Steven Van Belleghem explores
the evolution of the customerretailer
relationship
53/ Selling
Higher prices offer retailers an
opportunity to negotiate,
Dale Furtwengler reports
54/ Management
A mentor can offer invaluable
support to business owners,
David Brown says
55/ Marketing
The rise of the Amazon era is no
excuse for lazy customer service,
Barry Urquhart explains
56/ Logged On
Simon Dell offers tips to increase
search engine optimisation
Top tech
Bezel boys
+ +
Gem fields
Front cover advertiser:
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bringing you fashion pieces at
an affordable price. Supplied by
Duraflex Group Australia.
Visit: www.dgau.com.au
August 2018 Jeweller 5

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• Maximum supplier discounts to you the retailer
• No ongoing monthly management fees
• Professional advice & assistance
What it delivers
• Increased productivity
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EDITORIAL
CHANCE FOR BREATH OF FRESH AIR IN 2019
The industry politics of the past few years
has certainly quietened down. In fact, there’s
far less controversy in general, particularly
surrounding the JAA; however, this doesn’t
mean dissatisfaction has subsided.
It’s been more than two years since the JAA
made the disastrous decision in April 2016 to
launch and manage its own jewellery trade
fair, ending its relationship with Expertise
Events and losing the financial support
that came with it. History shows that the
JAA’s decision split the industry – directors
resigned, members quit en masse and
Australia’s largest retail group Nationwide
Jewellers declined to renew its membership
after 25 years.
The fallout has been financially disastrous
with the JAA reporting a $131,829 loss to
members in its 2017 financial statements,
a result that pushed the association into
negative equity. Worse still, one can’t be
sure if this loss is even accurate; the financial
statements were riddled with errors,
which are now under investigation by the
compliance division of the Institute of
Public Accountants.
Not only were the original financial accounts
issued to members last October error-ridden,
they also showed that the JAA business
model during that year was unsustainable
given that its executive director was paid 52
cents in every membership dollar!
Around the same time, information emerged
that JAA president and board member
Selwyn Brandt had decided against his
company, Australian Jewellers Supplies (AJS),
participating at the new JAA fair. And this is
despite he being one of the instigators of
the decision to break away from Expertise
Events and start a rival show. Brandt’s own
business wasn’t going to exhibit at the very
fair he was promoting!
At the time, some JAA directors declared
that they were unaware of this, with one
director telling me that he/she would not
have supported the breakaway move if
they’d known that the president’s business
would not be supporting the new fair.
The JAA’s many missteps continued, and
so has the resulting fallout. Just recently,
I received a phone call from someone
who expressed utter dissatisfaction after
contacting the JAA head office. He said
when his phone call was finally returned
“they seemed to be disinterested in
anything I said.”
I still receive emails about JAA membership,
and the sad thing is that all carry the same
message: we would like to support an
industry association, but we also don’t want
our money going down the drain.
It is perhaps expressed best by the following
email, which has been slightly edited for
clarity and anonymity: “I would like to know
if you can offer a suggestion with regards to
renewal of JAA membership. We have been
“WE RARELY
MAKE USE
OF THE
ASSOCIATION,
HOWEVER WE
PREFER TO BE
A PART OF ONE
FOR DIFFERENT
REASONS.”
members for years because we like to belong
to the association or at least be a part of an
association for jewellers. I am happy to pay
membership fees as long as it’s not wasted
because of their problems. We rarely make
use of the association, however we prefer to
be a part of one for different reasons.”
Sadly, this sentiment is rampant across the
industry; while the noise may have stopped,
the dissatisfaction hasn’t.
Now that the 2018 financial year has ended,
it’s likely that the JAA will record another loss,
and as expected, if up to $60,000 is writtenoff
in bad debts, which perhaps should have
been accounted for last year.
With JAA membership at an all-time low,
I have previously called on Selwyn Brandt
to stand down from the JAA in a bid to
reconcile industry factions under a new
leadership. Instead, Brandt stood for reelection,
which is his right, and re-assumed
the presidency.
However, there’s a chance for a breath
of fresh air in 2019 given that the JAA
Constitution precludes Brandt standing
again. It states “a director shall not hold
office for more than six consecutive years”
and depending on the outcome of the
accounting investigation, it may well be
prudent for other directors to consider
their position too.
Coleby Nicholson
Managing Editor
August 2018 Jeweller 9

See it all!
See, touch and hear about
the latest jewellery trends
to entice your customers,
grow your sales and
maximise your
profitability at
the International
Jewellery Fair.
It’s not just about finding the
right range for your store –
it’s your go-to event to be inspired,
educated, connected and entertained,
all under one roof over three
convenient days.
In between sourcing the hottest
new items you can watch fascinating live
demonstrations in diamond
setting and hand engraving.
INSTITUTE OF AUSTRALIA
JEWELLERY
JIA
JEWELLERY INSTITUTE OF AUSTRALIA ®
Now with easier security access straight
to the Fair floor, this year’s Fair is your
one stop shop for everything you need
for a successful year.
Seeing is believing
Enjoy Saturday night Happy Hour Drinks on the show floor from 5pm – it’s the perfect opportunity
for relaxed networking over drinks, nibbles and music.
Happy Hour sponsored by:
Hurry… you don’t have long to register your attendance
at the jewellery event of the year!
pms 2935 C
pms 2935 C
August 25 > 27, 2018
ICC Sydney > Exhibition Centre > Darling Harbour
Register at www.jewelleryfair.com.au
Organised by

UPFRONT
“Yes. We’re trying
to develop a ring
(or wand), which
can be used
instead of a MYKI
card. We love the
idea of people
touching on/off
with a wand!”
Would you ever consider selling ‘smart’ jewellery?
MARK BOLDISTON,
LORD COCONUT
BULLETIN BOARD
n HOME-BOUND RINGS
One wedding jewellery business
has taken the ‘try before you buy’
idea to the next level. Based in the
US, Hayden Cudworth offers ‘try-on
kits’ for customers wanting to try on
engagement and wedding bands at
home. Customers are able to order up to
five replica pieces, which are fashioned
from cubic zirconia and silver alloy.
n CUSTOMERS CONNECT
For jewellers who offer wifi in store
– whether free or not – one tip is to
ensure the wifi connection name
matches the business. After all, this
will ensure retailer’s business name
then appears on mobile phones,
tablets and computers in the area.
Free advertising, anyone?
n TECH TOUR
US-base jeweller Greg Fakier found an
interesting way to engage customers –
offering tours of their store. Customers
are handed earphones, which are then
used to guide them around as if they
are in a museum tour. Retailers wanting
inspiration on ‘outside the box’ ideas
could incorporate similar unique, digital
strategies in-store.
“Not at this stage,
my customer
is very fashion
driven so at this
point in time I
can’t see tech
capabilities being
a feature needed
for my product.”
SHARONA HARRIS,
F & H JEWELLERY
DIGITAL
BRAINWAVE
“Yes, we would
consider selling
smart jewellery
if they were
manufactured
by one of the
four major smart
brands like
Samsung, Apple,
Garmin or Fitbit.”
BEVAN HILL,
JBD DIAMOND
CENTRE CASTLETOWN
INSTA(NT) MARKETING
Heavy-hitter social media platform Instagram has
branched out and now offers users long-form video
streaming. With Instagram videos previously capped
at one minute, the new feature, dubbed Instagram TV (IGTV), will allow users to upload
footage of up to one hour in length for followers to view. This means retailers now have
the opportunity to shoot more in-depth footage for their consumers and fans. Retailers
could also use IGTV to shoot more insightful ‘behind the scenes’ footage as part of their
digital marketing plans.
SPOTLIGHT
Peter W Beck’s matching set of two-tone
weddings rings each feature a single
0.04-carat princess cut diamond. Available
in 18-carat and 9-carat gold, it was the
most popular product last month ranked
by views at jewellermagazine.com.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
jewellermagazine.com
Managing Editor
Coleby Nicholson
Journalists
Talia Paz
talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com
Lucy Johnson
lucy.johnson@jewellermagazine.com
Keith Noyahr
keith@gunnamattamedia.com
Advertising Manager
Julie-Anne Bosworth
julieanne@jewellermagazine.com
Digital Manager
Angela Han
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com
Production Manager
& Graphic Design
Jo De Bono
art@gunnamattamedia.com
Accounts
Paul Blewitt
accounts@gunnamattamedia.com
Subscriptions
info@jewellermagazine.com
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Phone: +61 3 9696 7200
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Copyright: All material appearing
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Reproduction in whole or in part is
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Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to
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August 2018 Jeweller 11

CAPTURING SUCCESS OF
THE RISING NICHE MARKETS
As the first gems and jewelry show that highlights segment
products in the emerging niche markets, Bangkok Gems &
Jewelry Fair underlines the up-and-coming niche market
trends such as:
The Moment
Jewelry for special occasions
such as jewelry for wedding
ceremonies and anniversaries.
7-11 SEPTEMBER 2018
Challenger Hall 1-3
IMPACT Muang Thong Thani
Bangkok, Thailand
THE ULTIMATE
TRADING
PLATFORM
Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair (BGJF)
has been celebrated among the world’s
leading gems and jewelry shows and
regarded as Thailand’s longest established
gems and jewelry fair. Organized twice
a year in February and September by
the Department of International Trade
Promotion (DITP), BGJF does not only
demonstrate the whole spectrum of
products and services the industry has
to offer, but it also shines the spotlight
on innovative design and latest global
trends from both well-established brands
to the new entries.
Spiritual Power
Jewelry for spirituality,
supernatural belief, amulets,
soul protections and morale
-boosting gems.
Beyond Jewelry
Lifestyle products and home
décor items decorated with
gemstones, ornamental jewelry,
and precious metal.
Metro Men
The emerging jewelry
products for metrosexual
stylish men.
Heritage &
Craftsmanship
For art and craft connoisseurs
inspired by elaborate original
techniques, historical and
cultural values.

NEWS
NEWS
Michael Hill closes Emma & Roe stores
Michael Hill International (MHI) announced
last month it would close its remaining
six Emma & Roe stores after it closed a
majority of the chain earlier this year.
In a company statement, the closure
was attributed to the result of a strategic
review, with MHI CEO Phil Taylor
announcing it would have a “singular
focus on the Michael Hill brand”
going forth.
“Management resource and capital that
would have been required to reposition the
Emma & Roe brand will instead be directed
to our core business, Michael Hill,” he stated.
“We will continue to take steps to remain
at the forefront of industry innovation,
Gold future looking bright
Increased consumer demand by Asian
giants and greater ethical responsibilities
of the gold mining sector will brighten
the industry over the next few decades,
according to a new report conducted by the
World Gold Council (WGC).
“As the middle class expands rapidly in
China, India and elsewhere, demand for
gold will undoubtedly increase. The gold
mining industry is going to be challenged to
produce as much gold in the next 30 years
as it has done during recent years,” WGC CEO
Aram Shishmanian stated.
Sluggishness in the two largest markets,
India and China, was attributed as one of the
customer service and product design,
to maximise efficiencies and improve
business processes.”
The announcement came just days after
Michael Hill announced a restructuring of
its leadership. General manager of Emma &
Roe, Tishara Mina now oversees almost half
of Michael Hill Australia’s stores.
Mina now heads six of the company’s
13 regions to minimise retail general
manager Kevin Stock’s workload in order
to “focus on the core Michael Hill business”,
being its namesake franchise.
Emma & Roe experienced a 5.4 per cent
decline in sales in nine months up until
31 March 2018.
principal causes for gold jewellery
demand falling to a seven-year low of
2,042 tonnes in 2016, according to
the WGC Gold Demand Trends Full Year
2016 report.
According to the latest study, technological
advancement will become an increasingly
important factor in the industry, while
economic growth will continue to support
global mining.
“Production methods and stakeholder
relations will need to evolve if the
gold industry is to make a meaningful
contribution to society over the next three
decades,” Shishmanian added.
Swarovski increases local presence
China slashes tariffs
on jewellery
China has cut import tariffs on 18
categories of jewellery, including those
set with diamonds and precious stones,
according to a state-approved diamond
service platform.
The new most favoured nation (MFN)
tariffs were reduced for nearly 1,500
categories including jewellery, and this
came into effect in July, Guangzhou
Diamond Exchange (GZDE) announced.
While the overall rate reduction of tariffs
was 67.5 per cent, the rate for gold and
silver jewellery products, including those
set with diamonds, declined from 20 per
cent to 8 per cent.
The rate for gemstones or semiprecious
stones products, natural or
cultural pearl products reduced from
35 to 10 per cent.
The rate for platinum and other precious
metal products also declined from 35 to
10 per cent.
However, a value-added tax of 16 per
cent will be collected at the import
stage, while a consumption tax will be
further levied for some items, according
to the statement.
This is the first time in recent years that
tariffs were cut on jewellery, offering
a significant opportunity for overseas
brands wishing to enter the Chinese
jewellery market, according to Liang
Weizhang, general manager of GZDE.
Jewellery was earlier regarded as a
“luxury item”, but is now covered under
the latest Notice on Reducing the
Import Tariffs of Daily Consumer Goods,
issued by the Customs Tariff Commission
of the State Council in China, the
statement adds.
Swarovski will continue to expand
throughout Australia after announcing it will
open a store in Hornsby, New South Wales.
The company’s latest concept store
will showcase its ‘Crystal Forest’, which
uses crystal designs to demonstrate
Swarovski’s craftsmanship and design
elements to consumers.
In a company statement, executive board
member Robert Buchbauer said, “Our store
design is not only a tremendous illustration of
Swarovski’s contemporary vision and taste for
design, this environment is perfect for us to
share our commitment to excellence, a sense
of creativity, surprise and delight.”
Swarovski continues to expand its bricks-andmortar
offerings and now has over 2,500
stores worldwide. The company also
opened a new store in Green Hills, NSW
earlier this year.
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
August 2018 Jeweller 15

NEWS
French Royal jewellery for sale
Jewellery once owned by the famous Queen
of France, Marie Antoinette, will be up for
auction through Sotheby’s in November.
The Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma
Family lots span centuries of European
history, including the reign of King Louis XVI
and the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Sotheby’s considers the collection owned
by Marie Antoinette to be one of the “most
important jewellery collections to ever
appear on the market”.
“Each and every jewel is absolutely imbued
with history. Never before seen in public,
this extraordinary group of jewels offers
a captivating insight into the lives of its
owners going back hundreds of years,”
Sotheby’s deputy chairman Daniela
Mascetti stated.
“The precious gems they are adorned with
and the exceptional craftsmanship they
display are stunning in their own right.”
Marie Antoinette’s natural pearl and
diamond pendant is one notable piece,
expected to fetch between US$1-2 million
(AU$1.3-2.7 m). Famously fond of pearls, her
multi-strand 331 pearl necklace and natural
pearl drop earrings are also on offer.
It will be the second time the Queen’s jewels
have graced a Sotheby’s auction in 2018.
The auction house sold the French Royal’s
6-carat blue diamond for US$6.7 million
(AU$9 m) back in May.
Many of the Queen’s jewels have not been
viewed since her reign and were shipped by
the royal family to Brussels during political
upheaval of the French Revolution.
Other jewels in the 100 lots for sale
belonged to generations of the Bourbon-
Parma family and include pieces once
owned by Kings of France, Spain, Austria and
various other European reigning dignitaries
spanning more than 200 years.
Diamond ring breaks record
Indian jewellers have constructed a piece that
has broken the record for the most diamonds
on a single ring.
The 18-carat rose gold band includes
6,690 diamonds and was designed by
Surat jewellers Vishal Agarwal and
Khushbu Agarwal.
The lotus, flower-shaped ring comprises
48 bejewelled petals and weighs more than a
golf ball. The piece has an estimated value of
more than US$4 million (AU$5.4 m).
Vishal created the design for the ring, and
Khushbu funded and provided the resources
for the Guinness World Record-breaking
project. The ring was manufactured by
Hanumant Diamonds artisans, based in
Mahidarpura, India, who spent six months
putting the final piece together.
According to Vishal, the lotus flower style was
created in order to “raise awareness about
the importance of water conservation.” Being
the national flower of India, it also depicts the
“beauty growing in the water-world”.
In order to qualify for the Guinness World
Records, all diamonds had to be conflict-free
and independently sourced.
Prior to the lotus ring’s construction, fellow
Indian Jeweller Savio Jewelry held the
world-record after its team created the
Peacock Ring, which comprised of 3,847 cut
diamonds in 2015.
Savio’s ring combined 16.5 carats in total and
weighed around 50 grams, with an estimated
value of US$270,000 (AU$366,000).
Jewellery awards’ Melbourne move
Supporting retailers with unique,
quality designs for over 30 years.
Life Instyle Melbourne, 2-5 August, stand 2302
IJF, ICC Sydney, 25-27 August, stand G34
+61 2 9452 4981 | info@pastiche.com.au
@pastichejewellery /pastichejewellery
Entries for Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery
Awards are now open. The ceremony will
celebrate its 13th year and its first visit in
Melbourne on 16 October. The awards
will showcase the work of jewellers across
categories covering solitaire, fancy colour,
diamonds for everyday, diamonds for men,
red carpet and emerging talent. Finalists will
be announced on 3 September, with all in
contention for the supreme award, an overall
prize to be showcased as the pinnacle of
jewellery design excellence.

Tiffany & Co defies odds
Despite the marriage rate in the US at a
record low, Tiffany & Co’s engagement ring
sales have increased by 11 per cent after
three years of declines.
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The New York-based jeweller has transformed
its marketing under the management of
CEO Alessandro Bogliolo, who joined the
company last October.
The former Bulgari executive said the
181 year-old company “played it a bit too
conservatively” and has worked to include
more diversity in its advertising campaigns.
“You have to take some risks and evolve the
brand,” he added.
According to the latest US Census Bureau,
48 per cent of American couples are married,
down from the 78 per cent in the 1950
TIFFANY & CO SALES HAVE INCREASED RECENTLY
survey. This has been a challenge for the
company that gets a quarter of its sales from
engagement and wedding rings.
Despite this, the company recorded a 10 per
cent increase in sales in the quarter ending 30
April, while net income jumped 53 per cent
to US$142 million (AU$192 m).
CATALOGUE
DOUBLE SIDED POSTER
74.5CM X 49.5CM
India loves Argyle diamonds
BANNER 30CM X 95CM
Rio Tinto has launched an international
diamond campaign showcasing its new
range of jewellery from the company’s Argyle
diamond mine in Western Australia.
The pieces from the ‘As Real As You’ campaign
will be available from 63 Indian retailers and
include designs using predominantly uncut
diamonds. The uncut styles continue to rise in
popularity amongst Indian consumers, with
the diamonds no longer exclusively being
purchased by India’s elite and wealthy.
Rio Tinto diamond sales and marketing
director Vikram Merchant said the new
collection reflected consumers’ desires.
“Today’s consumer wants to know where
their jewellery comes from and the Australian
Diamonds program celebrates Rio Tinto’s
diamond heritage and pedigree from a clean,
traceable source of diamonds,” Merchant said.
“The biggest opportunity for change lies
in developing diamond jewellery offerings
that track the diamonds from the mine to
the market.”
Ethical jewellery gets star treatment
Swarovski has collaborated with actress
Penelope Cruz for the brand’s latest ecofriendly
collection.
Launched in July, the collection features
only synthetic diamonds, sapphires,
emeralds and rubies.
PRICE TICKETS
• Colour catalogues, printed
with your name, logo & address,
exclusive to your area.
• Digital marketing package
• Double sided posters, self adhesive
window banners & price tickets.
• Quality jewellery.
• Quick turnaround stock.
• Exchange old stock for new.
• Interest free finance available
for approved customers.
COME AND SEE US AT THE
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR
STAND A29
CONVENTION CENTRE, SYDNEY
Cruz first previewed pieces from the
collection back in May at the Cannes Film
Festival, donning a pair of ethical ruby and
diamond earrings and a matching ring.
Atelier Swarovski executive board member
Nadja Swarovski told Vogue that Cruz
“designs from the point of view of a
celebrity. But above all, she creates jewellery
she would wear herself.”
SWAROVSKI COLLABORATOR, PENELOPE CRUZ
The collection’s synthetic diamonds were
formed in the Atelier laboratory while natural
topaz was sourced from traceable supply
chains in Brazil, Tanzania and Sri Lanka. The
Fairtrade gold was mined in Peru.
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
TO SECURE YOUR TERRITORY, CALL US TODAY
03 9764 2165
TO VIEW OUR RANGE & ORDER STOCK
VISIT US ONLINE AT
www.lacouronnejewellery.com.au
EMAIL: sales@lacouronnejwl.com.au

COME SEE US AT STAND F17
NEWS
Safety pendant wins prize
LEAF WEARABLES’
SAFER PENDANT
A wearables company that designed a
pendant has won a US$1 million prize for its
contribution to improving women’s safety.
Leaf Wearables has won the US$1 million
Women’s Safety XPRIZE for developing a
wearable to improve women’s safety.
The Women’s Safety XPRIZE competition,
funded by husband and wife entrepreneurs
Anu and Naveen Jain, aimed to encourage
tech developers to produce a wearable
device that would retail at under US$40 and
could “autonomously and inconspicuously
trigger an emergency alert while
transmitting information to a network of
community responders, all within
90 seconds.”
Leaf Wearables won the large cash prize for
its Safer pendant, which connects through
Bluetooth to the wearer’s smartphone.
When the user presses the button on the
pendant twice, an automated message
is sent to their emergency contacts and
pinpoints the wearer’s location.
The pendant also records audio during
a distress signal, which Leaf Wearables
believes could be useful in providing
evidence and deterring harrassers.
“Safety is a fundamental human right
and shouldn’t be considered a luxury
for women. It is the foundation in
achieving gender equality,” Anu Jain
stated at the announcement.
“Having the capability to record audio
after sending the alert was one of the main
differentiators for Leaf Wearables.
Their chip design and software was
also easy to be integrated into
other accessories.”
Lightbox factory gets green light
De Beers has commenced construction on
the factory that will manufacture its Lightbox
Jewelry synthetic diamonds.
The Element Six facility will have the capacity
to produce over 500,000 carats of synthetic
diamonds once its construction in Oregon,
North America, is completed in 2019.
Spanning 60,000 sq ft and costing the
company US$94 million (AU$125.5 m),
the factory will be De Beers’ second
partnership with Element Six, which is
currently headquartered in Maidenhead,
United Kingdom.
While the facility will not be in operation until
at least August next year, De Beers’ Lightbox
Jewelry is touting a launch this September,
with its range initially available online through
its website before being trialled in select
bricks-and-mortar stores.
The first collection will feature white, pink
and pastel blue synthetic diamonds, with
Lightbox Jewelry general manager Steve Coe
stating they will explore other colour options
in the future. The diamonds will not be sold
loose, nor will they be graded.
“We will introduce more designs and colours
as the range evolves,” Coe said in May during
the announcement of the brand’s launch at
JCK Las Vegas.
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Unique pink synthetic diamond
A New York-based synthetic diamond
laboratory claims to have produced the
largest pink synthetic diamond in the world.
Unique Lab Grown Diamond created a
square, radiant-shaped pinkish-orange
diamond, which has the synthetic equivalent
of SI clarity. The diamond was created using
chemical vapour deposition (CVD).
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
graded the 5-carat diamond last month and
reported the diamond displayed “outstanding
gemmological features”. It added that the
combination of size, colour and clarity “make
this the most remarkable CVD synthetic
diamond the GIA has tested so far.”
Another US synthetic diamond company,
WD Lab Grown Diamonds broke the record
for the largest synthetic clear diamond
back in May with a 9-carat round-brilliant
gemstone. The VS2-clarity diamond broke the
record previously held by the same producer.
The gemstone with the record beforehand
was 6 carats.

A Trending
Success
Duraflex Group Australia are proud to introduce
Ania Haie - the latest European sterling silver
jewellery brand bringing quality affordable
style to the forefront. Launching in Australia
and New Zealand at the DGA Roadshow and
International Jewellery Fair (August 2018), the
special inexpensive jewellery items will be priced
from $29 RRP up to $249 RRP.
Combining exquisite jewellery without
compromising on quality or affordability
is exactly what young fashion-orientated
women want; and that is why everyone
loves Ania Haie.
Only launched internationally earlier this year,
Ania Haie has experienced overwhelming
success by opening accounts in leading
boutiques and jewellers all across Europe and
the US, and has now expanded into shop-inshops
through existing and new accounts.
This new brand offers a range of collections
all crafted in 925 sterling silver with rhodium,
14kt gold or 14kt rose gold plating. Every
piece defines the latest fashion trend, and
whilst being fashion forward, the unique
designs make them unmistakably individual:
modern statement-making with ease.
Ania Haie is the perfect complement to one’s
personal style; making that office to cocktails
transition all that much easier, and stylish.
Prices start from AUD $29 RRP.
Easy everyday affordable style to
stay one step ahead of the fashion
crowd, with each collection inspired
by the latest catwalk trends.
Proudly distributed by Duraflex Group Australia | dgau.com.au | 02 9417 0177 | |

INNOVATIONS
EVOTECH PACIFIC
Tools and tech:
the jeweller’s latest must-haves
A SLEW OF TOOLS, MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT HAS EMERGED
THIS YEAR TO GIVE JEWELLERS A SERIOUS COMPETITIVE EDGE.
TALIA PAZ REVIEWS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS.
n an uphill battle against cheap offshore manufacturing, the right tools
can help bench jewellers and retailers to compete by improving the
quality, speed and efficiency of their work and services, boosting margins
in the process.
Anthony Nowlan, director of jewellery technology company Evotech Pacific,
believes there are many technological innovations for jewellers to be excited
about, especially where new services are concerned.
“We have just released two new software programs to assist manufacturing and
retail jewellers – Evotech Marketplace and the Evotech Vendor Store,” he says.
“The Evotech Marketplace enables retail jewellers to upload a brief of their
requirements, including images and sketches. The brief can then be distributed
to registered designers who can view it and provide a quote. Registration to the
marketplace is free for both retailers and designers,” he adds.
Nowlan points to the Evotech Vendor Store as an online sales channel for
jewellers who want an uncomplicated e-commerce solution.
“The Evotech Vendor Store is an e-commerce website for jewellers who don’t
have a website or don’t have an e-commerce facility on their sites,” he says.
“Retailers can register their business names and upload images of their pieces
then use the Vendor store to sell these pieces.”
Rapid Casting is another company focusing on service innovation.
“We have introduced the first automated online ordering and tracking system for
CAD/CAM and casting order placement,” production manager Ben Farago says.
“Our system provides customers with live quoting and an online gallery of their
previous jobs for easy re-ordering. We also provide the fastest overnight printing
and casting with door-to-door delivery and online order tracking.”
Farago believes service innovation provides large benefits to retailers, boosting
efficiency and customer retention: “By streamlining access to these services,
we’ve created opportunities for jewellers to improve their productivity and make
their businesses more responsive to customer needs.”
Another innovation from Rapid Casting is web-based portal LiveDesign.
August 2018 Jeweller 21

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“LiveDesign allows for interactive ordering
and customisation of classic style
engagement rings and to generate 3D
models in real-time,” Farago notes. “We felt
we were solving the problem of producing
standard designs to fit customer needs
perfectly, rather than trying to rework a
stock piece.”
Chris Botha is the operations manager of
Pallion’s jewellery division. He explains how
his company’s ‘knowledge repository’ will
make life easier for jewellers.
“Technology has introduced faster and
smarter ways to derive the origin point
of manufacturing, in the guise of CAD
and CAM advancements, but developers
of technology have overlooked a critical
component: the art of model making – how
to make a jeweller’s design work perfectly
for casting.
“We will offer this knowledge in various
free-to-access formats, including web
platforms, mobile apps and CAD plugins,
where our teams will address common
recurring problems and share the extensive
knowledge they possess. This will help
jewellers become better users of the
technology,” he adds.
NEW PRODUCTS GALORE
Olympus Innov-X is a leading manufacturer
of portable, precious metal analysers.
Sales specialist Andrew Saliba believes the
company’s latest range of analysers will be
especially useful for jewellers.
“[Products in] our latest Vanta range are
drop-tested to help prevent breakages and
costly repairs. They also have an intuitive
gesture driven interface, which works like
most modern smartphones,” Saliba explains.
“The gold-plate alerts feature detects
possible gold plating or coating when
analysing the composition of gold pieces.
If the analyser determines that
there is a possibility of gold coating or
plating, it notifies the user by displaying an
on-screen message.”
Tino Vella of Tino Vella Designs (TVD) supplies
glass display cabinets to the jewellery
industry. When asked about the company’s
latest innovations, Vella offers the following
comments: “The TVD Luxury Showcase range
was developed as a result of various requests
to provide display units, suitable for the highend
retail market and available for long and
short term hire.
“We have included adjustable colour
temperature LED lighting; this allows retailers
to select the correct colour temperature
to match the jewellery they are displaying.
The lighting of our showcases can easily be
adjusted to whatever lighting temperature is
required at a touch of a button.”
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INNOVATIONS
CHEMGOLD
PALLOYS – PALLION
keeping jewellery secure – perfect for pop-up or industry events,” he adds.
Chemgold provides 3D printing and casting services to jewellers. Director Larry
Sher outlines some of his latest equipment and service innovations.
“Chemgold has continued to expand its huge range of 3D printers in order to
cater for the increase of jewellers aiming to produce their jewellery via CAD/
CAM,” he says. “We also have invested in additional platinum-casting technology
to take our quality to the next level.
“This was a key factor in developing our revolutionary platinum-casting alloy
‘PTG’, which has incomparable qualities, innovative material properties and
outstanding workability. With a brilliant white colour, PTG is easier for setting, has
a superior polishing performance and a higher precious-metal content.”
“The inclusion of rotating display bases is another innovation we have added as
an optional extra,” he continues. “These allow jewellers to highlight the facets in
diamonds and add that extra amount of shine and sparkle. Rotating displays also
allow the merchandise to be viewed from every angle.”
Vella says the company’s newest showcases highlight innovations in security,
materials and construction.
“With Bi-Lock security key systems, laminated secure glass and solid stainless
steel construction, our showcases display jewellery to its full potential while also
Sher attests that Chemgold’s innovations save jewellers time and money:
“Jewellers save a huge amount of time on the bench and are also ensured an
overall higher quality piece of jewellery from casting in the long run. Other
benefits include less metal wastage and more precision.”
EXPANDING POSSIBILITIES
So how do the above tools help jewellers improve and expand on
opportunities?
For Saliba, it’s about ease of use. “Our range of desktop and portable XRF
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INNOVATIONS
TINO VELLA DESIGNS
EVOTECH PACIFIC
Greg Brennan is the director of Electrical Factory Outlet (EFO), a supplier of
lighting for retail stores and display cabinets that, Brennan claims, can boost
store traffic.
“As EFO is very new to the jewellery industry, we bring fresh ideas around
lighting and displays,” he says. “This year, we are launching our jewellery
merchandising light Scintalite. It has been designed to maximise the natural
brilliance of diamonds and gems by turning a static, diamond store-display into
an impressive glimmer of shining light – we’re invested in helping jewellers
capture greater customer attention and drive more store traffic.”
Abraham Tok of Sydney-based Tok Brothers offers CAD/CAM services to retailers.
He believes 3D printing is one technology that will only improve.
analysers are extremely simple to use and provide laboratory comparable
elemental analysis. XRF testing method is completely non-destructive and there
is no need to use dangerous acids,” he says.
“Axon technology provides test-to-test and instrument-to-instrument
repeatability so your first test is the same as your last test, no matter what
instrument you may use – even a five-second test provides adequate results for
most customers.”
“We recently expanded our fleet of 3D printers by adding a new FormLabs 2 3D
printer. This has allowed us to 3D-print more models at faster speeds without
compromising on quality,” he says.
Tok notes that his business has also started using a synthetic diamond screener.
“We’ve started using an advanced Presidium synthetic diamond screener that
allows us to quickly and accurately test diamonds – loose and mounted – in
front of our customers,” he says, adding, “Using this also protects us from the
rising instances of synthetic diamonds being mixed with naturals. This shows
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transparency to our clients and gives them even more confidence in us.”
Nowlan also believes in the value of 3D printing.
“We have specifically seen an increase in jewellers utilising 3D printing,
including the Asiga range of 3D printers,” he says. “Jewellers who are utilising
this technology benefit from the ability to control the model manufacturing
capability in-house and also check prototypes to identify potential design
faults or issues prior to casting. This leads to a greater chance of success in the
manufacturing process.”
Desma Noble, a goldsmith and jeweller who owns Desma Designs, believes
jewellers should be aware of innovations in welding technology also.
“The techniques of making and repairing jewellery have barely changed for
hundreds of years but new welding technology is changing that,” she says.
“Electronic-fusion welding in jewellery enables a relatively instant, clean join with
precise control through a digital interface and microscopic accuracy.”
According to Noble, the benefits are large.
“These techniques can bring incredible productivity to a jewellery workshop as
very fine and delicate jewellery can be more easily repaired – metal joins can be
within a millimetre of heat-sensitive gems and less oxidisation means very little
finishing required,” she adds.
LOOKING AHEAD
The general consensus among
the suppliers included here is that
innovations are easing the burden
and cost of manufacture and design
and that these innovations should
continue in coming years.
OLYMPUS
Botha sees the future as a melding of old
and new technologies. “More Australian jewellers
requiring low to mid-levels of product supply are leveraging
online platforms,” he says. “These volumes will not be entertained by offshore
manufacturers, so we’re seeing a marked increase in model-making and
finishing in Australia. This is great news for the industry!
“[We will also see] direct-metal printing and direct-mould printing,” he continues.
“As per all other technologies, this will become cheaper and faster.”
Sher concurs but believes such innovations might still take time to emerge here.
“Direct metal printing could be an option if it becomes economically viable –
currently, the machines are extremely expensive to run and the quality is not at
the standards required,” he says.

INNOVATIONS
Vella notes that Tino Vella Designs is working to ensure power leads
and cables become a thing of the past.
“We are exploring the possibility of incorporating portable batteries
into our showcases – this will mean that our showcases will no
longer be restricted by location,” he says. “We are also producing a
prototype for a glassless, open-display showcase with removable
LED stem lighting, as well as a tabletop display cube that would work
perfectly for product-launches,” he adds.
Brennan also sees the lighting industry continuing to innovate:
“Lighting efficiency and LED driver technology is continually
developing so any range of lighting effects imaginable will
be possible.”
Noble believes that coming technological innovations will embrace
broader and “more diverse” applications within the industry.
“I hope one day we will see fusion-welding technology as
commonplace but Australia is still catching up in this regard,” she
says. “The technology is still a reasonably big investment for smaller
workshops, but I hope the affordability will improve as it becomes
more common-place.”
Speedy advances in technology mean new tools, machines and
equipment continuously enter the market but technology means
little if jewellers lose the original, emotional aspects behind
jewellery manufacture.
After all, jewellers can work with all the tools in the world but they
should also embrace the most important tool of all – the human
touch, Botha says. “While we will continue to invest in newer
technologies to aid our processes, we will also concentrate heavily
on the most important – the ‘human’ technology.”
A December 2017 Forbes article succinctly sums it up: “There are
[technological] ideas emerging and developing that will be highly
impactful. These new ideas and software will affect almost every
store experience in the future, they will change what it means to go
to a store and they will make store experiences more worthwhile
than ever,” writes Richard Kestenbaum.
“[However], the most important thing will always be the products
and services offered for sale. Technology can facilitate the
connection between the product and the consumer but the main
event is always going to be whether the consumer and the product
are right for each other.”
After all, technology is a useful and necessary tool but still
just a tool. i
PALLOYS – PALLION

TINO VELLA DESIGNS
The
Here, retailers and suppliers lay down their
concluding thoughts on the latest jewellery
and equipment innovations.
“We are in the initial beta phase of
our ‘knowledge repository’ and we
have asked all of our users to join the
platform. What these improvements
give to jewellers is the most valuable
resource – time.”
CHRIS BOTHA, PALLION
“We have recently become a reseller
of BlueCast, a producer of 3D printer
resin, which will facilitate our customers’
requirements for a universal resin that
suits the majority of resin printers.”
LARRY SHER, CHEMGOLD
“We are currently producing a
prototype for a glassless, open-display
showcase with removable LED stem
lighting, as well as a tabletop display
cube that would work perfectly for
product launches.”
TINO VELLA, TINO VELLA DESIGNS
“We are currently witnessing an
increase in the development of metallic
powders used in 3D metal printing and
an experimentation with new powder
alloys. When combined with some
of the new 3D metal printers, higher
resolution, direct to manufacture pieces
are being produced.”
ANTHONY NOWLAN,
EVOTECH PACIFIC

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MEN’S WATCHES
tick
Big
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MEN CONTINUE TO EXPRESS THEIR
PERSONAL STYLE WITH WATCHES.
LUCY JOHNSON DISCOVERS
WHY TIMEPIECES ARE STILL THE
ULTIMATE ACCESSORY OF CHOICE.
he men’s watch market has been inundated with
smartwatches and wearables for a few years
now. Some international suppliers are now even
producing ‘hybrids’ – traditional watches that integrate
smartwatch functionalities – in order to keep up with the times.
Despite this, traditional timepieces have maintained their
relevance and stature as the go-to male accessory, assuring
many within the industry that a classic timepiece that reflects
the wearer’s personal style is still the most important aspect for
male consumers.
Stuart Smith is the group marketing manager of Seiko Australia.
He notes technological innovations only continue to propel the
category forward.
“The mechanical side of the business has improved with
technology over the years and is a lot more stable,” Smith says.
“Many of the ranges have changed over to solar technology,
August 2018 Jeweller 31

COME SEE US AT STAND F17
MEN’S WATCHES
where previously we had mechanical
movements and mechanical moved into
quartz movements and then quartz moved
into quartz-solar. Nowadays, watches have
a lot more functionality.”
David Faraday, general manager of Oozoo,
Dukudu and Pernille Croydon distributor
hiPP, believes consumers are gravitating
back towards the beauty of analogue
watch faces.
“While smartwatches have their market,
they are not for everyone or for every
occasion. Traditional watches are still
very much sought after as they represent
fashion, style and classy aesthetic values,”
he says.
“In a fashion-driven world, people are
always conscious of being on point –
men included.”
Faraday also believes the fast-fashion
landscape means men are now more
inclined to own more than one watch in
order to keep up with rolling trends.
“Men are now much more likely to add
to their collection, rather than just having
one higher-priced watch that they wear for
years as they did in the past,” he notes.
TIMESUPPLY
TIMELY TRENDS
Minimalistic designs have been one of the
biggest trends in the watch industry in
recent years, according to John Wohlers, a
retailer who runs his namesake business in
Wangaratta, Victoria.
“In our regional area, we sell a lot of
everyday work watches. These are mostly
minimalistic designed watches on leather
bands of 38 to 40mm,” Wohlers says. “Digital
sports watches are also very popular.”
Faraday agrees with those sentiments.
“We still see consumers leaning to
classic, vintage slimline styles,
particularly with oversized case
diameters; however, textured faces and
Capitalising
on sport watch sales is easy. Here’s how:
BEZEL READY – ensure all staff know how to use chronographs and bezels so they
can show their customers with ease.
ASK QUESTIONS – find out what physical activities customers partake in and what
functions they require in a sports watch; there’s no point in an abseiler seeking out a
diver’s watch!
KEEP IT SIMPLE – if the salesperson cannot explain the technicalities of a
complicated sports watch, learn it or do not stock it. To avoid confusing customers
who know little about timepieces, never introduce them to more than three brands
in a single visit.
www.ClassiqueWatches.com
E sales@samsgroup.com.au
W samsgroup.com.au
P 02 9290 2199
STAFF SPECIALISTS – designate specific sales associates to become experts on
various brands. The store then has a go-to person for times when tough product
questions arise.
EDUCATE – regularly invite representatives from every watch manufacturer
represented in your store to provide training sessions for your sales staff.

seikowatches.com

MEN’S WATCHES
SEIKO
DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA
rugged strap styles are popular in the casual styles,” he adds.
Mulco Watches Australia CEO Randolf Ramos says a combination of
simple and elegant features continue to prove popular this season.
“Watches are a very personal purchase; for many, they are after
something quite particular,” he says. “Elegant watches with leather
bands and stainless steel bands are proving to be popular, with
silicone bands now part of the smart casual look.”
Smith notes a penchant for dark dials, classic bands and
hardy materials.
“Stainless steel is still popular with many models featuring dark
blue and black dials. In terms of casing materials, black hard
plate is very popular – it almost looks like a dress design but is
quite hardwearing. Black and gold is also quite a popular colour
combination with men,” he says.
Sam’s Group Australia managing director Sam Der Bedrossian offers
a differing view. He notes his consumers have been bucking the
minimalistic trend, instead purchasing more ‘complex’ designs in
recent months.
“Generally speaking, the change in demand for men’s watches has
shifted from basic to more complicated styles, like chronographs,
tourbillions, multi-functions and automatic watches, and
accordingly a larger-size watch case,” he says.
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“Skeleton automatic watches, where the movement is visible
through the front or back of the watch, have also been
performing well.”
CHANGING ATTITUDES
Ken Abbott, managing director of Timesupply, says he has noticed
a shift in how men purchase timepieces. He believes they assess
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Exclusive Distributor & Importer | T: +61-3-9500 8894
OOZOO TIMEPIECES
MULCO

IJF
STAND
E15
SWISSTIME HQ
whether the watch will work as a fashion
accessory, rather than viewing timepieces as
long-term investments.
“There are so many things now taking the
place of what watches used to do, such as
phones, fitness trackers and smartwatches,”
he notes. “The opportunity for sales is now
in selling watches as fashion accessories,
which are being treated more like a piece
of jewellery – it’s a short term or seasonal
purchase now.”
Der Bedrossian believes consumers who
prefer traditional watches do so because
OOZOO TIMEPIECES
they present an opportunity to express their
own personal style.
“Traditional watches will always maintain
their elegance and timelessness and can
be worn like an item of jewellery; there will
always be a market for them,” he says.
Phil Edwards, managing director of Duraflex
Group Australia, agrees. He goes on to offer
his view on the smartwatch market and
how it consequently affects retailers selling
traditional watches.
“The market has changed significantly in
Diving into
sports watches
Men’s lifelong love affair with the sporting world
is reflected in the continuing popularity of sport
watches, which offer functionality, style and
adventure all in one.
Seiko Australia’s Stuart Smith says one key feature
of sports watches is their durability in various
environments, including ranging temperatures
and water resistance.
“Men do still want to buy a mechanical watch, especially divers;
they’re certainly well sought. People appreciate the mechanical
movement but there are many more options available for professional
divers, and this covers sports watches overall,” he says.
SEIKO
In order for this category to gain traction in the market, Hans Marti of
Swisstime HQ says suppliers of sport watches must continue to offer a
variety of products to suit every man.
“Our traserH3 appeals to those pursuing sports, military and outdoor activities,
marketed for the adventure type person,” he says. “On the other hand, we also carry
design-focused products like the XEMEX or Jowissa for the style-conscious man.”
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in AU & NZ
info@hiPP.com.au | 1300 132 522
(NZ 0800 65 4477)

AUSTRALIAN OPAL WATCHES
Instyle Watches PTY LTD
02 8399 7300
sales@instylewatches.com.au
www.pierrecardinwatches.com.au

®
TONES & SILVER
WHOLESALERS OF QUALITY JEWELLERY
MEN’S WATCHES
Showroom – Braeside VIC
MULCO
OOZOO TIMEPIECES
numerous ways; there are more competitor
brands now in the market and customers are
spoilt for choice,” he says.
“You’re either a traditional watch customer
or a smartwatch customer; we quite simply
don’t need to try to compete.”
Smith concurs, adding that consumers sway
towards either category exclusively, which is
ultimately a positive for retailers.
“I think smartwatches are good for some
people; however, they have a completely
different DNA when compared to the
watches that have been on the marketplace
for over 100 years,” he says.
“People associate with the DNA of a watch
brand and the style that brand actually
brings with it. Smartwatches are still growing
– the technology is changing quite rapidly
at the moment – so I tend to think that what
is happening now with smartwatches might
not be happening in the future.”
Hans Marti of Swisstime HQ believes
smartwatches are most popular “at the
younger end of the demographic”, and
rely heavily on social media and influencer
marketing, whereas traditional timepieces
have other means of drawing in consumers.
“Influence is dominated by social media and
peers but it is also very fickle; brand loyalty
is not strong in this market as these items
are usually positioned at the ‘throw-away
commodity’ end of the market. Therefore,
traditional watches will continue to prosper,”
he declares.
TIME TO SELL
Abbott says retailers looking to capitalise
on men’s watch sales should focus on what
trends are making waves locally and abroad.
“In order to forecast trends, retailers only
need look to places like the United Kingdom
to see what is popular in the season ahead,”
he says, adding that suppliers do much of
the trend analysis already.
“Ultimately it is up to the brands to have
a grasp of what is on-trend or even to
create the products to push that trend; if
the retailer has a good supplier and a good
brand in stock then they should already have
an understanding of the trends
on the market.”
@stonesandsilverjewellery
Ph: +61 3 9587 1215
Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au
DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA
MULCO

watch on sales
Fall back on these timeless tips to
increase men’s fashion watch sales:
KNOW THE CUSTOMER – select watch brands
that match the store’s demographic. Consider the
generation’s interests and see if there are any brands
on the market that reflect these.
SCOUT TRENDS – dedicate time to researching watch
trends online through various resources. This will assure
customers that staff are up-to-date on the latest styles.
THE MIGHTY TOUCH – get the customer to hold the
watch while describing its features. All customers
appreciate the tactile elements behind watch
shopping.
SHOW PASSION – get excited about the
product. Enthusiasm is contagious.
TAKE CARE – when showing expensive
watches, wear one, not two gloves. One glove
suggests care and prestige, while two can be
pretentious and off-putting.
CAREER MILESTONE – for young consumers,
buying a quality timepiece is less of a necessity
than it once was. Help them to perceive the
purchase as a rite of passage of a young professional.
In doing so, the retailer can hope they will return later at
different points in their professional career.
FRESH LANGUAGE – avoid repeatedly using the
phrase “watch”. This can be swapped out for
“timepiece”, “masterpiece”, or the name of the
particular model. In doing so, the presentation of the
product has more finesse
and the customer
acknowledges the
important nature
of purchasing
the watch.
SWISSTIME HQ

MEN’S WATCHES
SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA
Ramos says retailers can maximise their watch sales by stocking
products that have strong brand recognition, as he believes loyalty in
this category is stronger than other sectors of the jewellery industry.
“In a brand’s online presence, ‘influencers’ are very effective in
selling men’s fashion watches. All the brands are integrating online
sponsorship into their digital marketing strategies,” he explains.
“Retailers who are a bit scared about stocking new watch collections
may find security in brands with these partnerships. In my opinion,
the retailers need to be more focused on display and should offer
more styles, especially something different to their customers.”
Marti agrees with these sentiments, adding, “Influence at the
traditional watch level is dominated by traditional print, sporting
events like Rolex at the tennis, social marketing influencers
and ambassadors. Traditional watches are aspirational so
loyalty is very high.”
Ramos acknowledges the apprehension some retailers may face
when wanting to introduce new watch brands and recommends
starting with around 12 watches, as well as carrying products across
various collections.
“We are flexible with our brand and are always happy for our
stockists to switch collections and models on display,” he says.
“It is about finding what products fit best for their store and
their customers.”
Wohlers believes it is ultimately the responsibility of the retailer to
conduct thorough research before stocking new watch brands.
“Do your homework, explore the watch market and see what brands
are selling well both in store and online,” he recommends. “If stocking
a new brand, make sure you can compete with online sellers and ask
distributors about advertising.”
There’s no doubt that the men’s watch category is replete
with choices for stylish, fashion-forward males. Retailers would
do well to ensure they’re keeping up with the latest releases and
stocking accordingly.
The staple timepiece is here to stay. i

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and consumers about gemstones

GEMSTONE ORIGINS
Expedition to
Ethiopia’s sapphire
fields
t the 2017 Tucson Gem Show, author Andrew Lucas was approached
by Ethiopian dealers attending a seminar given by Shane McClure,
Global Director, Colored Stone Svc. They proposed to Lucas and
McClure to conduct research on Ethiopian gemstone deposits for
GIA. This led to correspondence between Lucas and Teweld Abay, director
of the Mineral Marketing and Value Chain Directorate over the next several
months to coordinate a joint project between GIA and the Ethiopian Ministry of
Mines Petroleum & Natural Gas. Tucson 2017 and 2018 were abuzz with interest
regarding Ethiopian emeralds and to a lesser degree Ethiopian sapphires. A few
Ethiopian dealers showed sapphires at the show that were obviously magmatic
in nature. Most of the gemstones were very dark blue and heavily included with
silk. There were some bright blue stones, however, that sparked a great deal of
interest. News of the sapphires had begun entering the gem trade in early 2017.
As much of the talk in the gem trade was of this upcoming source of gemstones,
GIA was compelled to conduct firsthand on-the-ground research. The Ethiopian
Ministry of Mines also wanted third-party expertise to be involved in joint
research on the Ethiopian gem deposits.
The decision was made for GIA to visit the main gem producing areas of the East
African country of Ethiopia, including sapphire, emerald and opal mining areas.
The expedition dates were set for the end of February 2018 through the
third week of March and the first mining areas to be visited during the visit
were the sapphire fields.
ETHIOPIA
Ethiopia is composed of over one million square miles with elevations that range
from 125 m below sea level to 4,550 m with a mean elevation of 1,330 m. The
terrain is dominated by high plateaus, which are divided by the Great Rift Valley.
The population of over 105 million makes it the second most populous in
Africa. Ethnically, Ethiopia is composed of several ethnic groups with the two
largest being Oromo (34.4%) and Amhara (27%). While the official National
language is Amharic, local states will also designate working languages such as
Oromo for the State of Oromia, Somali for the Sate of Sumale, and Tigrinya
for the State of Tigray.
Approximately 80 per cent of the population lives in rural areas and
this reflects that about 72 per cent of the workforce is involved in the
agricultural industry.
Approximately 43 per cent of the population is Ethiopian Orthodox Christian,
33 per cent Muslim, and 18 per cent Protestant. Many of the tourist attractions
August 2018 Jeweller 43

GEMSTONE ORIGINS
MANY OF THE MINERS WERE FAMILIES WORKING
IN SMALL GROUPS WITH WOMEN DOING MUCH
OF THE HEAVY LABOUR
PICKS, SHOVELS, BUCKETS AND HUMAN MUSCLE
WERE THE ONLY MINING TECHNIQUES USED IN
THE SAPPHIRE FIELDS
in the country are to do with religious sites
such as the Rock-Hewn Churches at Lalibela,
which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This
site consists of 11 medieval monolithic cave
churches from the 12th to 13th centuries
and are still a place of pilgrimage and
worship today.
SAPPHIRE FIELDS NEAR CHILA
Our expedition started with the sapphire
fields near Chila. This was an area where
we had the least information as to what
was going on and did not know what
to expect as far as the size of the mining
area, the amount of miners involved or the
nature of the mining. While much of what
we witnessed met our preconceived ideas
of the artisanal mining operations, seeing
the exact nature of the mining proved
very interesting, as well as learning about
the reported transformation of the socioeconomic
nature of the area.
GEOLOGY
Based on analytical results, it is clear that
the sapphires are related to alkali-basalt
flows. According to geological maps, there
are several alkali basalt outcrops in the area,
but the maps don’t indicate their presence
around Chila. However, there are clearly
basalt flows near the sapphire mines. Basalt
flows can cover incredibly large areas
with thick layers of molten rock, often in
successive events.
Based on our observations, the sapphirecontaining
basalt flows were deposited
on a flattened basement. This basement
contains heterogeneous rocks of a granitic
composition that belong to the Precambrian
era (older than 540 Ma). The basalt flows
are much younger and were deposited
in the Cenozoic period (younger than 65
Ma). The basalts erode much easier than
the basement, creating a very wide valley
flanked by flat plateaus.
In the centre of the valley, we could see
exposed basement. The sapphires have
been released from their basalt host
rock by weathering. The richest sapphire
concentrations are found in the centre of
the valley near the riverbed, although many
miners are also working on the hill flanks.
According to the locals, sapphires have also
been found on top of the basalt plateaus,
indicating that a lot of the basalts are
sapphire bearing.
MINING
All of the mining we saw was classic
artisanal mining on the secondary deposits.
The deposits are ideal for artisanal mining
techniques and family/community mining
efforts. We saw no mechanisation in the
mining whatsoever. All the miners in the
area first dug pits with picks and shovels.
Then, the gravel was taken out of the pits,
often by just flinging it to the top of the pit
with a shovel or by using buckets. It was
then sorted through for sapphires by hand,
often with just dry picking.
It appeared that the dry sorting missed
many of the smaller size sapphires and that
most of the stones the artisanal miners were
recovering were above one gram. This was
also evident when we tried to buy samples
for research in one-carat to half-gram sizes.
It was difficult to find any sapphires in that

ange with most of the miners and traders offering one gram and larger sizes.
There are potentially numerous rough sapphires under one-gram sizes being left
behind in the gravels sorted by the artisanal miners.
When the miners hit ground water in the pits, they would bring it up by bucket
for a very rudimentary use of water during the sorting process, which in either
case was done right at the top of the pit by the small group working that pit. We
did not see communal sorting or washing efforts.
The mining efforts were very labour intensive. We saw approximately as many
women miners as men and the women were often performing the same heavy
labour tasks such as digging with picks and shovels. The mining was always a
team effort at each pit with some members digging while others went through
the gravel for sapphires. The teams were almost always less than 10 people and
appeared to often be family and extended family groups.
The pits themselves were often very shallow although the depths varied
depending on their location. The pits that were at the bottom of the Granite
Gorge were the shallowest as the weathered granite bedrock was reached after
just digging to between half a metre and one and a half metres. Many of these
shallow pits were being mined.
Others were abandoned after the bedrock had been reached and the potential
gem-bearing gravel processed. As the mining moved away from the valley
centre, up the hill flanks, the depth of the pits would often increase as bedrock
was not reached until six metres in some cases. These were the deepest pits we
ROUGH ETHIOPIAN SAPPHIRES. IMAGE COURTESY WIM VERTRIEST/GIA
saw. They are often approaching agricultural land or in some cases agricultural
land is dug up to search for sapphires.
The deeper pits often had a problem of hitting ground water and filling up
partially or completely overnight. Even some of the shallow pits had this
problem if they were right at the riverbed. The miners would then have to
remove the ground water first thing in the morning before mining could
continue. They usually accomplished this by hand held buckets with a miner
standing in the water and shopping it up, then handing the bucket to a miner at
the top of the pit who would toss it aside. If the pits were on the deeper range,
there would be two miners in the pit to hand it up to the miner on the top of

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MOST OF THE SAPPHIRES WERE RECOVERED
FROM GRAVELS BY DRY HAND PICKING. IMAGE
COURTESY ANDREW LUCAS/GIA
THERE WERE MANY BROKERS IN THE MINING
AREAS BUYING STONES. IMAGE COURTESY
ANDREW LUCAS/GIA
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the pit. They may also have to continually
remove water during the entire day to
keep mining.
We only saw two diesel pumps being used
to remove the water as the cost for the
pump and fuel was likely prohibitive for
most of the artisanal miners. At one crowded
mining location, we saw an ingenious foot
pedal powered pump to remove the water.
Camels were commonly used as beasts of
burden to haul material, while cows were
commonly seen wandering through the
mining areas.
BUSINESS AND SOCIAL ASPECTS
The Government issues six-month licences
for exploration. After the exploration licence,
the parties can apply for a mining licence
with the Ministry of Mines by showing them
the results from the exploration, which
includes the amount of material recovered.
If the Government approves, the parties are
issued the mineral rights for the property.
The mining along the gorge by artisanal
miners is considered legal, however, the
mining that moves up the hills, and is on
agricultural land, is not legal at this time.
Even with permission from the landowner,
the mining operations are not lawful
because the landowners do not own the
mineral rights for their land.
The landowners usually make an
arrangement with the miners that the
proceeds from any sapphires found while
mining on their property would be divided,
usually 50/50. Many farmers are also getting
involved in sapphire mining, especially the
younger generation helping their family’s
farming business.
We saw no foreign buyers in the sapphire
fields or in the local trading town Chila.
Foreign buyers are not allowed in the
sapphire bearing area. In fact, it is difficult
for any foreigner to come to the area.
When travelling to the mining sites, we saw
soldiers monitoring who was accessing the
sapphire mining areas.
Since we were with the Ministry of Mines, we
had permission. We were provided an official
letter allowing us into the area and into the
mining sites, while being accompanied by
someone from the ministry.
Foreign buyers are not allowed to buy
directly from artisanal miners, even in the
trading town of Chila or in the nearby larger
city of Aksum. Foreigners must buy from
licensed brokers in Addis Ababa that have
a permit to export. Most of the foreign
buyers for sapphire in Ethiopia are Sri
Lankans and Thais.
GEMMOLOGY
A preliminary study of the Tigray sapphires
by GIA provides some technical information.
Chemical analysis has shown that all
sapphires have high Fe-content and no
detectable Be or Cr concentrations. The
high Fe-content, certain inclusions and
a typical UV-VIS-NIR spectrum show that
the sapphires are related to alkali basalt
extrusions. This type of deposit commonly
produces blue, green and yellow sapphires,
all of which are found in Ethiopia.
Blue stones are dominant, with yellow and

green stones being much rarer, although green zones are common
in the larger stones. Parti-coloured stones are also seen.
Some dealers have also reported purple sapphires, which might be
an indication that some corundum contains traces of Cr (red colour)
in combination with Fe-Ti pairs (blue colour).
Most stones exhibit strong blue-green dichroism, but a considerable
number have a milky appearance, which scatters the light and gives
a yellow cast to the stone when illuminated from the side. These
stones generally have a lighter body colour and are considered more
attractive for buyers.
SUMMARY
When the sapphire mining started, it was estimated that 4,000
people became involved very quickly and today over 10,000 people
are involved in artisanal sapphire mining. Within a year, the sapphire
trade made a huge impact on Chila, the local trading town.
Before the sapphire mining rush started, there was one bank office,
but at the time of our visit, three banks had a branch there and the
police station had expanded. We could also see many construction
sites all over town. When we visited, more than 20 Ethiopian gem
dealers had an office in Chila.
The deposits are potentially large. Qualities can vary depending on
the exact mining location. There are three major areas being worked
on, with one producing high quality bright blue stones that are
smaller than the other areas that produce larger but often darker
material. The average size of the sapphire rough is reported to be
3 to 7 grams. However, some of the larger stones we saw had good
TAKEN FROM DRONE FOOTAGE THIS SHOT CLEARLY SHOWS THE NUMEROUS
PITS SEEN IN THE MINING AREAS. IMAGE COURTESY WIM VERTRIEST/GIA
WWW.CUDWORTHENTERPRISES.COM

New Opal
Collection
GEMSTONE ORIGINS
S/S Doublets & Boulder Opal
NUMEROUS DEALER OFFICES WERE SEEN IN CHILA. ON SATURDAYS
MANY OF THE ADDIS ABABA BUYERS WOULD COME TO TOWN AND BUY IN
QUANTITY FROM MINERS. IMAGE COURTESY ANDREW LUCAS/GIA
colour and quality, and sizes ranged from 10 to 20 grams. Other
colours produced include yellow and green, but the most are blue.
With the size of the deposits and variety of qualities, mining is
economically viable for the local artisanal miners. Demand from Sri
Lankan and Thai buyers seems to remain strong and prices offered
by miners and dealers firm. The sapphire deposits have definitely
transformed the economic nature of the local communities and the
town of Chila, that can be observed with the small town going from
one bank to new ones opening up constantly.
IP8488N-RGP
www.ikecho.com.au
The Ethiopian Government looks to work with the country’s gem
trade to achieve the greatest potential from their sapphire deposits,
as well as other gem deposits in their country. They are looking to
brand Ethiopian gemstones and hoping to bring in investment
and training to better exploit their deposits and bring new skills
so the people of the country can move up the value chain into
manufacturing in the future.
Ethiopia’s government and industry want to tell the story of their
gemstones themselves to the global industry. For this purpose
they are working with international organisations for research
and training. This up and coming gemstone producer is proud of
their gem wealth and looking to capitalise on it for the future
of the country. i
IP8488E-RGP
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Andrew Lucas is Manager of Field Gemology for GIA in Carlsbad. Wim
Vertriest is Supervisor Field Gemology for GIA in Bangkok, Thailand.
Daniel Girma is an analytics Technician for GIA in New York. Teweldbrhan
Abay is a director for the Mineral Marketing and Value Chain Directorate
within the Ethiopian Ministry of Mines Petroleum and Natural Gas in
Addis Ababa. Biniyam Bekele is a geologist for the Ethiopian Ministry of
Mines Petroleum and Natural Gas in Addis Ababa.
IP767-ERG
This article was first published in Summer 2018 edition of InColor
magazine: incolormagazine.com
Reprinted with permission from International Colored Gemstones
Association: gemstone.org
+61 2 9266 0636 +61 2 9266 0969 enquiries@ikecho.com.au

GEMS
COLOUR INVESTIGATION: TOURMALINE – PART I
crystals, allowing some unusual long slender
cuts. Pink to red crystals often have more
visible inclusions than other coloured varieties
although clean crystals are not uncommon in
sizes under 2 carats.
IMAGE COURTESY: GIA.EDU
Boasting an array of colour and colour
combinations unrivalled by any gem
species, one can find tourmaline in shades
of almost every hue. Throughout history
this gem was often confused with other
minerals until tourmaline was identified
as its own mineral species in the 1800s.
STACEY LIM reports.
The name ‘toramalli’ (the Sinhalese word for
“gems of mixed colours”) was originally used
to describe these unknown coloured crystals.
The tourmalines are a group of mineral
species called borosilicates, that is, they are
silicates containing boron, but also a mix of
other elements.
Consequently, they have a similar crystal
structure but their varying chemical
composition means they have different
physical properties. In particular, the inclusion
of other elements, such as chromium,
iron and manganese, creates the variety of
colour for which tourmaline is famous.
The major tourmaline species are elbaite,
liddicoatite, dravite, uvite and schorl, but most
gem tourmalines are elbaites, which contain
sodium, lithium and aluminium. Coloured by
traces of various other elements, elbaites can
be blue, green, yellow, pink to red, colourless
or zoned with a combination of colours.
Traces of manganese, for example, are
thought to produce reds and pinks,
although pinks may also owe their hues to
colour centres caused by either natural or
laboratory-induced radiation.
Some varieties of tourmaline flaunt trade
names such as ‘rubellite’, the name given to a
range of red tourmalines, often tinged with
orange, purple or brown. Some members of
the trade argue that terms such as rubellite
are archaic and varieties should be named
after their colour and species alone.
Tourmaline typically forms as long prismatic
NEARLY ALL
TOURMALINES
DISPLAY
DIFFERENTIAL
ABSORPTION OF
LIGHT, WHERE
THE HUE AND
SOMETIMES TONE
VARY WITH THE
ORIENTATION OF
THE CRYSTAL
Nearly all tourmalines display differential
absorption of light, where the hue and
sometimes tone vary with the orientation of
the crystal. Pink crystals appear darker pink
in the direction of the optic axis (parallel to
the length of the crystal), and lighter pink
perpendicular to the optic axis. This enables
a degree of control over the depth of colour
when fashioning a stone. Carefully controlled
heating or irradiation can also alter colour,
and while the results of both methods are
rather uncertain, these treatments are still
extensively used commercially, and are often
very difficult to detect.
Known for showing multiple colours in
a single crystal, ‘watermelon tourmaline’
is a particularly desirable parti-coloured
variety. Looking exactly as it is named,
these impressive crystals show pink in the
centre, running down the crystal axis with a
concentration of green around the outside.
It is typically cut into slices to display this
astonishing colour arrangement.
The warm hues of tourmaline display a
wide range of colour intensity and tone and
while rubellite is generally a more available
coloured variety of tourmaline, those with a
hue and depth of colour that approach the
intensity of fine ruby and pink sapphire can
attract higher prices.
A vibrant and impressive gemstone,
tourmaline will continue to rival its precious
counterparts with a seemingly endless array
of colours. i
STACEY LIM FGAA BA Design, is a qualified
gemmologist and gemmology teacher/assistant.
She is a jewellery designer, marketing manager
and passionate communicator on gemmology.
For information on gemstones, visit: gem.org.au
August 2018 Jeweller 49

RETAIL
ARA
PENALTY REDUCTIONS; ILLICIT TRADE TO BE TACKLED
RUSSELL ZIMMERMAN offers retailers a
snapshot of the latest issues facing the
industry, and explains why the ARA is
looking towards a positive future for retail.
The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) is
looking forward to seeing further growth for
small businesses and increased employment
within the industry as the second stage of the
penalty rate reduction takes shape.
Last year’s decision to reduce Sunday penalty
rates under the General Retail Industry Award
2010 (GRIA) from double-time (200%) to timeand-a-half
(150%) was an incredible outcome
for Australian retailers as it will provide longterm
benefits for employers and employees
in the industry.
Sunday penalties will now be reduced to 180
per cent for permanent staff and 185 per cent
for casual employees, alleviating some of the
constant cost pressures retailers face today.
With Labor’s recent moves to block the
penalty rates reduction, the ARA is concerned
that some people have misunderstood the
recent changes to penalty rates – or worse,
are being misinformed.
Sunday penalty rates have not been abolished,
nor will they be. We have simply reduced
the rate from 200 per cent to 150 per cent as
these excessive penalty rates were deterring
employers from giving their staff Sunday shifts,
and forcing some retailers to close their doors.
As the decision was made by the Fair Work
Commission (FWC) and an independent
umpire established by the Labor Party, and
then upheld by the Federal Court, the ARA
trusts all sides of politics will support this
revolutionary decision for the industry.
THE ARA IS
CONCERNED
THAT SOME
PEOPLE HAVE
MISUNDERSTOOD
THE RECENT
CHANGES TO
PENALTY RATES
– OR WORSE,
ARE BEING
MISINFORMED.
TACKLING ILLICIT TRADE
With up to 15 per cent of global GDP lost
each year to illicit trade, the ARA believes
more needs to be done to combat such a
phenomenal loss.
According to the World Economic Forum,
US$2.2 trillion worth of global GDP is lost per
year due to organised crime and corruption.
To tackle this serious issue, the ARA has
been working with various government
organisations and associations forming the
Australians to Stop Counterfeiting and Piracy
(AUSCAP) industry group to stem the illegal
trade in consumer goods.
More recently, the ARA and AUSCAP have
been working closely to develop the
Global Illicit Trade Environment Index, which
evaluated 84 nations around the world
and their efforts in combating this global
economic scourge and plans to do better.
Although Australia received the highest score
in the Asia-Pacific region, there is much to
be done to build a better environment and
prevent illicit trade.
After all, an Australia that is strong against illicit
trade that supports its region to be the same
is a safer and more prosperous Australia for all.
OVERSEAS ORDERS AND THE GST
The ARA believes the low value import
threshold (LVIT) GST that has recently come
into effect will create a fairer tax system and
put local retailers on a level playing field.
We’re hoping this tax fairness will give a
much-needed boost to the industry and we
will continue to work with the Government to
ensure a 100 per cent collection rate.
The ARA worked closely with the ATO in
the lead-up to the implementation of
the LVIT GST, and hopes to continue this
relationship to ensure the best possible
outcome for the local retail industry,
including proposing additional collection
models to improve compliance. i
RUSSELL ZIMMERMAN is
is the executive director
of the Australian Retailers
Association (ARA).
Email: info@retail.org.au
The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) is the largest association representing the country’s
$310 billion retail sector, which employs more than 1.2 million people. Providing expert advice
across multiple disciplines including leasing and wage rates, the ARA’s mission is to ensure
retail success by informing, protecting, advocating, educating and saving money for members.
50 Jeweller August 2018

BUSINESS
THE FUTURE OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP
As online shopping increases, STEVEN
VAN BELLEGHEM says that customer
relationships remains an important driver
of loyalty in the minds of consumers.
Customer relations are in transformation and
pre-sales, sales and after-sales are changing
at high speed. Companies need to figure
out the current customer journey, the role
of self-service, their data strategy and
much more.
A few years ago, this author conducted
a global study on the future of customer
relationships in collaboration with
data-collection company SSI and
translation agency No Problem! The study
investigated all aspects of a modern
customer relationship and the highlights
were as follows:
ADOPTION OF NEW TECHNOLOGIES
Rogers’ Adoption Curve is a concept by a
communications studies professor named
Everett Rogers that seeks to explain how,
why and at what rate new ideas and
technologies spread.
Rogers first published the concept in 1962
in his book The Diffusion of Innovations and
the curve is well-known – every manager,
marketer and entrepreneur refers to this
body of thought from time to time. He
divides adopters into five categories:
innovators, early adopters, early majority, late
majority and laggards.
People are more aware than ever before of
the newest products and models as soon as
they hit the market, and never has the public
been so awake to the possibilities that are
coming their way.
Furthermore, the intention to buy these
new products is high, a position that sharply
contrasts consumers’ approach to new
technology just two decades ago. In studies
from the early 1990s in which respondents
were asked about their intention to buy a
mobile phone someday, the most popular
answer was a firm ‘No!’ Some 25 years later,
that sentiment has changed completely.
This is how it usually went with new
concepts: the ‘average Joe’ or Rogers’ socalled
‘early majority’ failed to see the point
LIFE IS FASTER
NOWADAYS AND
THAT INCLUDES
NOT ONLY THE
INTRODUCTION
OF NEW
TECHNOLOGIES
BUT THE
OBSOLESCENCE
OF OUTDATED
ONES
of most new technology, yet reactions today
are very different. For instance, 66 per cent
of people say they are interested in buying
a smart TV one day, one in two are actually
looking forward to the introduction of
smart cars, smart shoes and refrigerators are
slightly lower down on the wish list but the
idea of a smart thermostat is very popular.
Today, a mobile phone has become just
another fast-moving consumer good
(FMCG) and the average consumer replaces
their smartphone every 18 months – one
wouldn’t have to travel back in time too
far to find a generation who had the same
home phone for 18 years!
Things are moving quickly indeed. The
classic Rogers’ Adoption Curve probably still
exists, although its upward or downward
tilt is probably slightly more pronounced
than before. Life is faster nowadays and
that includes not only the introduction of
new technologies but the obsolescence of
outdated ones.
THE RISE OF DIGITAL OFFLINE
Traditional retailers are afraid of
August 2018 Jeweller 51

BUSINESS
CONSUMERS STILL VALUE PERSONAL TOUCHES
‘showroomers’, the shoppers who look
around their stores and ask staff for expert
advice only to go home and order the
product online. This fear is justified: a study
has shown that 46 per cent of Americans
have been known to ‘showroom’; however,
the same study also revealed that ‘reverse
showrooming’ is an even bigger trend – 69
per cent of consumers research products
online and then visit an offline store to
order the product of their choice.
In the SSI/No Problem! study mentioned
earlier, one of the aspects under
investigation was how consumer
expectations are changing with regard to
the offline (bricks-and-mortar) shopping
experience. The results were clear:
consumers expected the online and offline
worlds to integrate in the near future. In
many cases, that’s exactly
what is happening.
The study showed that consumers expect
an increasing level of interaction and
digitisation in the offline sales outlets, 63
per cent expect stores to install interactive
screens enabling consumers to look up
details on specific products during their
visit and 64 per cent want the option of
ordering a product online right away if it’s
not on stock.
The latter figure illustrates the evolution
of offline toward online and back again.
What’s more, 73 per cent of consumers
feel it’s a plus when an online store also
has an offline sales outlet. Flexible pickup
and delivery options will also become an
increasingly crucial part of any retailer’s
online strategy.
KNOW THE CUSTOMERS
Consumers exhibit a growing aversion to
repeating themselves so the key issue for
consumers is to be recognised as a customer
across all channels. Currently one in three
people expect sales personnel to know that
they searched online and browsed a product
prior to their visit; they want to hear the right
answers right away without having to tell
the same story over and over.
Strikingly enough, this phenomenon is
roughly the same across the world.
DATA BENEFITS ALL
A large portion of the public is still clueless
as to how companies can use their data.
The SSI/No Problem! report showed very
little opposition to the possible use of
consumer data for specific purposes but,
at the moment, only a limited number of
consumers are in favour of such practices
– most consumers are indifferent and have
adopted a ‘wait and see’ attitude.
If consumers had their way, retailers would
primarily use their data to send them
personalised information, something that
46 per cent of respondents would welcome.
It’s striking to note that the Dutch, who
are traditionally frontrunners in the field
of digitisation, are the most sceptical of
corporate use of personal data – just 30
per cent of Dutch consumers are okay with
companies using their data.
Countries such as Belgium, Spain, Italy
and also Singapore are much more open
to such strategies, and over 50 per cent of
consumers in those nations expect better
service through the use of consumer data.
THE PERSONAL DIGITAL WORLD
Several years ago, Peter Hinssen wrote
The New Normal, where he argued that
businesses would address a society without
digital limits, where they are increasingly
faced with customers and consumers who
no longer tolerate limitations in terms of
pricing, timing, patience, depth, privacy,
convenience and intelligence.
This is now a reality. Still, it would be
premature to write-off everything situated
in the human and offline realm just because
the digital society has become the norm.
On the contrary, consumers all over the
NEVER
UNDERESTIMATE
THE IMPACT OF
REAL PEOPLE.
HUMAN CONTACT
IS CRUCIAL IN
MOST CUSTOMER
RELATIONSHIPS,
EVEN IN THE
DIGITAL WORLD
world share the same basic concern for
wanting to build a digital relationship
without losing the interpersonal, human
contact of face-to-face relationships.
Only a handful of companies can do without
but, as always, there are exceptions to the
rule – companies like Amazon and Booking.
com are hugely successful despite minimum
human interventions. Google is another case
in point, but how many companies can do
what these leading companies are doing?
The answer lies in their exceptional DNA
and also their excellent track record when
it comes to customer interaction. Consider
these and it’s easy to see why they are
the exceptions.
A company like Dutch e-commerce business
Coolblue has made a conscious choice to
cultivate human contact. When an online
player opens offline stores and records
videos of employees recommending their
services, it is a well-considered and very
intelligent strategy.
THE PERSONAL TOUCH IS KEY
Never underestimate the impact of real
people. Human contact is crucial in most
customer relationships, even in the digital
world. Seventy-three per cent of consumers
like to have the option of talking to a fleshand-blood
person from time to time even
when the digital channels are working
perfectly. The simple fact that this possibility
exists creates peace of mind that many
people still value.
The personal touch is in the little things
– one in two consumers like it when a
business addresses them by name, for
example. Retailers must get to know their
customers so they can personalise the
customer experience.
Of course, the great thing about all this is
that jewellery retailing is one business that
still thrives on human contact, excellent
advice and emotional purchasing. i
STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM
provides coaching, workshops
and advice about social media
and conversation management.
stevenvanbelleghem.com
52 Jeweller August 2018

SELLING
YOUR PRICE IS TOO HIGH
TOO OFTEN, STORES ARE PARANOID ABOUT PRICE WITHOUT REALISING THAT A HIGH PRICING STRATEGY
BRINGS BENEFITS THAT OUTWEIGH DISCOUNTING. DALE FURTWENGLER REPORTS.
“Your price is too high!” These words strike
fear into the hearts of business owners and
salespeople like no others but the reality is
that this is the one statement they should be
happy to hear; it can be music to the ears of
good salespeople.
Why? Well, because it opens the door
to negotiation.
Now if you’re not an experienced negotiator
I suggest that you take some classes, read
some books and do whatever you need to
do to develop this skill. It’s one that will serve
you not only in your business but also in your
relationships with family and friends.
ONE SIMPLE QUESTION
In the meantime, here’s one question that
will help you launch the negotiation. When a
customer says your price is too high, simply
ask, “What would you like to give up?”
This simple question puts them on the
defensive; they now have to explain why they
think the price should be lower instead of you
trying to convince them that your price is fair.
Often they’ll cite another store, usually online,
where they can get a cheaper price. To that
you’ll respond, “I have no doubt that you can
find a cheaper price but what will you be
giving up to get that lower price?”
Again, don’t be surprised if they say, “Nothing.
It’s the same product.”
Agree that it is the same or similar product
then ask what they’ll do when they
experience any of the myriad of problems
that can occur after the sale. How will those
be handled? How will they feel dealing
with a call-centre representative in a distant
location that isn’t authorised to deal with
their problem?
How will they feel when left to their own
devices because exchanges aren’t company
policy? If exchanges are allowed, how much
time will they spend shipping the defective
product back and forth instead of exchanging
an item on the spot at your store?
WHEN A
CUSTOMER SAYS
YOUR PRICE
IS TOO HIGH,
SIMPLY ASK,
“WHAT WOULD
YOU LIKE TO
GIVE UP?” THEY
NOW HAVE TO
EXPLAIN WHY
THEY THINK THE
PRICE SHOULD
BE LOWER
OFFER REASONS WHY YOUR PRICE IS HIGHER
THE GOAL
The goal is not to denigrate your competition;
it’s to help your prospect understand why your
price is higher than your competitors. There
are intangibles that are often overlooked that
add real value and can warrant a higher price.
This approach also helps the customer to
make conscious decisions about the choices
they make. If the price really is outside
their budget, it opens the door for you to
guide them to alternatives that will meet
the majority of their needs and provide an
enjoyable experience for them.
It can mean tailoring the offering to their
specific needs or suggesting alternative
products after your questions have ferreted
out what’s most important to them.
LOGIC VS EMOTION
Retail experts will tell you that businesses
looking to avoid a race to the bottom on
price require the following three attributes:
• Offer a distinct, differentiated product
• Be authentic in their pricing strategies with
an accurate understanding of the customer
value quotient
• Stay true to who they are as a brand
• If retailers already know this, why don’t
their pricing strategies reflect it? The short
answer is that there is a huge difference
between logical and emotional acceptance.
Anyone who has worked in sales, however
briefly, has experienced the frustration of
buyers refusing to make a decision even
after acknowledging everything the
salesperson says.
The lesson here is that emotions trump logic
every time. I believe this is what’s happening
with retailers; they know what they need to
do to stop discounting but they can’t get
past the fear of losing a sale to a competitor
with a lower price.
STRATEGY
Here are three reasons why your sales
strategy should include prices that are high
enough to get prospective customers to say,
“Your price is too high.”
It opens the door for you to:
• High prices help you discover what’s really
important to your customers versus what’s
nice to have
• High prices help you guide customers
towards informed decisions that benefit
both you and them
• High prices help you increase margins
despite what your competitors are doing.
Most importantly, high prices help you
recognise early those instances when a
customer really only cares about price.
You can then limit the amount of time and
energy expended in what will inevitably be a
failed effort.
Once you’ve developed the above skills,
you’ll find that negotiating is actually a lot of
fun and a wonderful outlet for the creativity
that exists within each of us so boost your
prices today. i
DALE FURTWENGLER is
founder of Furtwengler &
Associates. He is a speaker,
author and consultant.
pricingforprofitbook.com
August 2018 Jeweller 53

MANAGEMENT
THE POWER OF A MENTOR
IN THIS DIGITAL AGE, NEVER BEFORE COULD THE OLD MAXIM ‘CANT SEE THE FOREST FOR THE TREES’ BE TRUE HOWEVER,
SOLVING SOME CHALLENGES OF BUSINESS CAN BE AS SIMPLE AS HIRING A MENTOR. DAVID BROWN REPORTS.
Sometimes being in business can feel as
though you’re the only one who understands
the trials and tribulations you are going
through. Such loneliness means a support
network is invaluable for any business owner,
regardless of the size of their operation.
Peers and fellow business owners can be
invaluable resources, however working with
a business mentor can help you deal with
specific issues and decisions you may
have to make.
Here are some of the most valuable reasons
why adding a mentor to your team can be
one of the best steps you can take to preserve
and increase sales.
MENTORS PROVIDE KNOWLEDGE
A mentor will have a strong level of
experience in business. They may not
necessarily be involved in the jewellery
industry, but they will be able to bring a level
of business expertise to the table that you
may not have. A mentor can therefore often
see what you can’t.
A SUPPORT NETWORK IS INVALUABLE FOR ALL
MENTORS BRING ACCOUNTABILITY
One of the toughest tasks as a business
owner is staying disciplined and focused.
Without accountability, there is no strong
incentive to stay on track and drive your
business forward. A mentor can provide this
function by making sure you follow through
on your commitments to yourself.
more mistakes than most.
Why make the same mistakes twice when
there are others who have been there a
nd who can prevent you from erring
as they did?
Knowing you need a mentor is one thing,
but where do you find a good mentor? Well,
you can start by asking other jewellers or
business colleagues.
Some may have their own support network
or advisors they can introduce to you.
Recommendations are always one of the
most effective ways to seek the services
you require.
Once you find a prospective mentor,
make sure they’ve walked the walk. There
are plenty of so-called ‘experts’ who set
themselves up as advisors or consultants,
but the important question is, ‘What are
their credentials?’ Have they had business
success at a level you want to achieve?
If not, then are they the right person to
advise you?
Sometimes in business you can’t see the forest
for the trees. A mentor will often approach
problems from an impersonal, detached
and unemotional perspective that will allow
them to provide insights you may not have
discovered otherwise.
They are in the unique position of being able
to appreciate the strengths you may take for
granted while acknowledging the weaknesses
you fail to see.
MENTORS OFFER ENCOURAGEMENT
US President Harry Truman famously had a
sign on his desk in the Oval Office that said,
‘The buck stops here’. There’s no escaping
the responsibility of business ownership, but
there’s also no one around to congratulate
you when things go well, or encourage you
when things get tough. A good mentor can
provide that much-needed pat on the back or
just some words of support when challenges
are mounting.
KNOWING YOU
HAVE SOMEONE
TO SUPPORT
YOU, AND WITH
WHOM YOU
CAN DISCUSS
CONFIDENTIAL
MATTERS, CAN
HELP YOU WORK
THROUGH
ISSUES MORE
SURELY
MENTORS CAN BE A SOUNDING BOARD
Sometimes you just need someone who
will listen. A good mentor can help you
work through issues without saying a word!
Knowing you have someone to support
you, and with whom you can discuss
confidential matters, can help you work
through issues more surely.
MENTORS HAVE CONTACTS
An experienced mentor will have
developed a network of contacts during
their years in business. They may be able to
introduce you to people who can help you
take your business to the next level.
MENTORS HAVE EXPERIENCE
Mentors have no doubt made mistakes
along the way, which means they can help
you avoid making similar errors. Everyone
makes mistakes and those who have been
the most successful have probably made
Choosing a mentor is not a decision to
take lightly. You may find a retired business
owner who is happy to give back because
they were once supported themselves.
This person may want nothing in return but
just enjoys staying involved in business. You
may hire a professional consultant instead.
Some prefer to pay for help, as they don’t
value advice if they’re obtaining if for free.
Either way is fine, as long as you are gaining
the support and assistance you require.
Business doesn’t have to be done alone.
Seek the support you need to achieve the
results you deserve. i
DAVID BROWN is
co-founder and
business mentor of
Retail Edge Consultants.
retailedgeconsultants.com
54 Jeweller August 2018

MARKETING & PR
BUSINESS CAN PROSPER IN THE AMAZON ERA
THE EMERGENCE OF GLOBAL MEGA-RETAILERS ON THE AUSTRALIAN MARKET DOESN’T HAVE TO SPELL DOOM FOR
TRADITIONAL RETAILERS. BARRY URQUHART DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF BUILDING A SERVICE CULTURE.
When Amazon launched its marketplace
in Australia, it was a limited offering. The
mega-retailer didn’t offer its priority delivery
subscription service Amazon Prime, nor its
store-within-a-store service Fulfilment by
Amazon (BBA). The company also denied
Australians access to Amazon.com, which
operates from the US.
Soft launches like this incomplete ‘rolling’
launch are fraught with danger, because a
brand only gets one chance to make a first
impression. Consumers can be lost forever
because of an underwhelming first offering
and Amazon not only risked short-term
damage to its sales, but longer term damage
to its brand image. Winning a customer is
always easier than winning back a customer.
A MOMENT OF HOPE
The public’s lukewarm reception to Amazon’s
Australian launch brought hope to retailers
who had been told by the usual harbingers
of doom that Amazon would end their
businesses. The day after the launch, the
earth still turned on its axis and the sun
rose in the east.
It seems competitive edge is still possible for
big and small businesses that are committed
to lifting their service standards, updating
their business models, reviewing their pricing
policies and establishing and sustaining
strong relationships with existing and
past customers.
PLUG THE LEAK
The prospect of bricks-and-mortar and
online businesses both losing market share
to new interlopers like Amazon, Aldi, Costco
and numerous fast-fashion outlets is really
the consequence of poor and impersonal
service at retail level.
The number of consumers who are frustrated
and intolerant with sloppy retail experiences
has increased substantially during the past
decade, and Australian entities are no longer
protected from Amazon and other giants by
geographical isolation.
MANAGING
EXPECTATIONS
IS A
FUNDAMENTAL
PILLAR OF
ATTRACTING
CONSUMER
INTEREST, VISITS,
SALES AND,
ULTIMATELY,
REPEAT
BUSINESS
PERSONALISED CUSTOMER SERVICE IS KEY
With the advent of online channels and
digital marketing, convenience and
access have both boomed. Product range
and delivery are no longer hindered by
geographical factors and now seem almost
unlimited, extending far beyond what
traditional retailers can offer.
Furthermore, a slow uptake of e-commerce
by long established and recognised traders
has lowered the barriers and accelerated the
entry of global disruptors.
Correspondingly, and as a consequence
of managerial inaction, price has eclipsed
branding for the first time in two decades
as the third most important criterion in
purchase decision making.
It seems everything has changed,
necessitating a total audit of marketing,
advertising, merchandising, promotions,
sales, service, operations, inventory, pricing
and staffing.
FIRST THING’S FIRST
Without question, a primary cause of why
retailers are leaking revenue and customers
to new, mostly global entrants is the
disturbingly regular instances of negative
shopping experiences.
To reiterate a quote popular in business
development workshops, “We have
met the enemy and they are us.”
Attacking, competing with and beating
Amazon cannot be achieved by focusing
on where Amazon is strongest – lower
prices, a huge range, house-branded
products, priority servicing and delivery,
prompt customer responses and global
product access.
Instead, the most immediate and scalable
opportunity for traditional retailers is
personalised customer service. Online
interactions lack the emotion that flows
from a personalised encounter. Digital
customer service can feel transactional
in nature and is not an easy medium for
building relationships, stimulating loyalty
and encouraging repeat business because
everything focused on now.
A PROPER FOCUS ON SERVICE
Sadly, opportunities are often lost because
of service myopia. A narrow view upon
convenience and immediacy leads to
perfunctory exchanges bereft of even
the most popular elements of service
excellence, such as customer empathy and
after sales service.
Managing expectations is a fundamental
pillar of attracting consumer interest, visits,
sales and, ultimately, repeat business.
Generating a sense of intrigue is fulfilling
to prospective customers and therefore
satisfying for businesses.
Consider this final thought: businesses can
survive and even thrive in the presence of
Amazon and other global retailers. Those
that will do best are the ones that can lift
their sights, standards and disciplines to the
benefit of all. Do that and the customers will
keep coming. i
BARRY URQUHART
is managing director of
Marketing Focus and an
international keynote speaker.
marketinginfocus.net.au
August 2018 Jeweller 55

LOGGED ON
HOW TO WRITE FOR SEO (AND WHY IT MATTERS)
SEO REMAINS A NECESSARY PART OF RETAIL MARKETING AND WRITING FOR SEARCH ENGINE OPTIMISATION STARTS
WITH A STRONG PAGE TITLE AND DESCRIPTION. SIMON DELL REPORTS.
Your website’s page title and description can
have a big effect on your SEO. That’s why
it’s important to learn the basics of these
marketing tactics so you can apply them for
better rankings and overall success in your
business’ search results.
First, let’s start with the title. To set your page
title, you need to edit your title tag.
WHAT’S A TITLE TAG?
The title tag is the part of the HTML code
that defines the official title of the web
page. It is what shows up as the clickable
headline for search engine results. In the
Google result below, the large blue headline
is the page title.
A title tag is important for a few reasons –
firstly, it should be an accurate description
of the page content that tells Google what
your page is about so the search engine
can include it in relevant search queries;
secondly, a title tag tells users what to expect
from your page. When catchy and relevant,
title tags can increase page conversions.
CTR
The CTR or click-through rate is an essential
part of effective SEO. This is especially true
with your page title. Google uses CTR to
determine how relevant your content is to
the searcher.
A higher CTR will bring you a higher ranking
and thus even more clicks and a low CTR
will do the opposite. In addition, the higher
your CTR then the higher your sales or other
back-end conversions will be, naturally.
This combination makes it one of the most
important parts of your SEO arsenal.
WRITE A GOOD PAGE TITLE
Always include your focus keyword in your
title. The focus keyword is the search term
that most appeals to your page. This is
how Google knows what your page is about
and it sharply increases your chances of
ranking higher.
You need your title to catch attention
immediately. After all, you are competing
with other sites who are sometimes using
the same keywords to get people to visit
their pages.
It can be helpful to put your keyword at the
beginning of the title but, if most of your
competitors are putting the focus keyword
at the beginning as well, consider adding
one or two words beforehand to ensure your
title stands out.
OPTIMAL LENGTH
Google displays search-engine results pages
(SERPs) in three different modes: wide
screen, smaller screen and mobile.
The number of search results per page
depends upon which of these three views
Google is using.
Titles typically max out at 50-60 characters
but they may cut off at different lengths
depending on the view. There is no set
number of characters that is the optimal
length – Google might show more of the
letter ‘i’ than the letter ‘w’ due to the pixel
width, for example – so it is recommended
to keep titles under 55 characters.
For best results, manually review all titles
to make sure you’re getting the proper
information to appear in the right views.
OTHER TITLE BEST PRACTICES
Be sure to include the keyword or main
theme in the first half of your titles, just
in case the second half gets cut off, again
due to the screen size or responsive design
trimming the title.
It might be tempting to leave out your
brand name to save space but Google
actually prefers that you include it. If you
don’t, Google might change your title for
you down the road, causing confusion and
putting a dent in your rankings and traffic.
As with any marketing, constantly test the
results – test different titles and see which
ones are driving more clicks to your brand.
A WEBSITE’S PAGE TITLE AND DESCRIPTION WILL IMPACT WEB TRAFFIC
IF MOST OF YOUR
COMPETITORS
ARE PUTTING
THE FOCUS
KEYWORD AT
THE BEGINNING,
CONSIDER
ADDING ONE
OR TWO WORDS
BEFOREHAND TO
ENSURE YOUR
TITLE STANDS OUT
UNDERSTANDING META DESCRIPTIONS
Now it’s time for the meta description. This
is the portion of text that appears beneath
your title in SERPs. It’s typically a few
lines long.
USER IN MIND
Always write meta descriptions for people,
not for search engines. Meta descriptions
don’t directly determine page rank but they
do affect your CTR and a good CTR means a
better ranking.
Write descriptions under 160 characters that
tell users exactly what they can expect and
include a clear call to action.
SEO remains a necessary part of any online
marketing strategy. Just as a website needs
good and relevant content, it also needs
strong titles and meta descriptions to ensure
it is treated accordingly by search engines.
Take note of the tactics above to ensure your
webpage ranks higher in search results and
converts more traffic. i
SIMON DELL operates his
own agency, focusing on
digital marketing strategies
and customer engagement.
simondell.com
56 Jeweller August 2018

MY STORE
DNS JEWELLERS
COUNTRY: Australia
NAME: Dean and Nic Sumner
POSITION: Co-owners
When was the renovated space
completed?
Originally established in 1960 as
Penshurst Jewellers, we relocated to
Mortdale [Sydney] and opened in
January 2018.
Who is the target market and how did
they influence the store design?
I don’t think we have a target market;
generations of families have been
coming to us including grandparents,
their children and grandchildren. When
we decided to make the move it was
very important to maintain our customer
base but also attract new clientele with
a fresh new look. We set out to go for a
modern boutique style incorporating a
‘lux’ jewellery feel. We want our style to
feel comfortable and inviting, with the
right look, feel and layout.
With the relationship between store
ambience and consumer purchasing
in mind, which features in the store
encourage sales?
Our main focus is manufacturing and
repairs but we feel we have the right
balance of the jewellery basics that
people are after such as chains, earrings
and watches, along with custom makes.
From the street we have an eye-catching
display cabinet that showcases our
higher-end rings. This placement was
important to the shop lay out, as it
catches the customers eye at street
level but visually allows a clear view of
our cabinets inside that we feel entices
customers to come in and shop.
What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?
We like the flow of the shop and the
visual concept from the outside in.
The shop takes in lots of natural light,
which makes the white cabinets and
jewellery reflect brilliantly. We also
love our back gold wall that reflects
gemstone cuts. Our logo is prominently
displayed and our large doublesided
mirror ties in with the shop but is
also fully functional for our workshop
out the back. i
August 2018 Jeweller 57

10 YEARS AGO
WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?
A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE AUGUST 2008 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.
Precious metal
standards update
The story: Representatives from the jewellery trade
are currently working with Standards Australia
(SA) to compile new precious metal and plating
standards for the industry. Drafts of these standards
are now complete.
The committee has already attended four meetings
to devise two separate standards, according to
committee member Peter Beck, CEO of supplier
Peter W Beck and representative of the Australian
Jewellery and Gemstones Council. The new
standards – Australian Standard – Requirements
Nationwide to
release price book
The story: A slowing economy and
continuing gold price hikes have prompted
Nationwide Jewellers to release version
three of its Repair Price Book at the JAA
Australian Jewellery Fair in September. The
price book includes recommended retail on
most jewellery and watch repair services.
“With the slowing economy, there will be
a surge in demand for repairs of all types
of goods, including jewellery and watches,”
managing director Colin Pocklington said.
“So, jewellers need to ensure that their
prices reflect current cost factors.”
for rolled gold and plated jewellery; Australian
Standard – Jewellery-fineness of precious metal
alloys – will cover all precious metals and their
alloys, as well as rolled gold, plating thicknesses
and so forth.
BETTER TRADE PRACTICES
LAWS TO BENEFIT SMALL
BUSINESS
The story: Small businesses
will soon enjoy what has been
dubbed the greatest protection in
30 years against predatory pricing
and misuse of market power as the
result of proposed changes to the
Trade Practices Act.
Speaking at the National Small
Business Summit in Sydney,
Australian ACCC chairman, Graeme
Samuel said the government was
now preparing to remove blockages
in the law that would allow the
regulator to take more action on
behalf of small businesses.
According to an ACCC release, the
regulator has been actively working
to assist small business on a number
of fronts from protecting them from
cartels, bullying conduct, misleading
conduct and scams (false business
opportunities).
Samuel said the ACCC took a holistic
approach that recognised that small
businesses are also consumers.
“Protecting their welfare means
dealing with a number of issues, from
scams to cartels, to bullying by other
businesses,” he said.
More DCLA questions
The story: Questions from Jeweller about the
DCLA-controlled website that purports “to help
the diamond consumer locate reputable Australian
diamond jewellers dedicated to the fair, ethical, and
honest sale of diamonds and diamond jewellery” have
not been answered by DCLA directors.
After Jeweller published a story in its March issue
about www.independentlycertifieddiamonds.
com, (ICD) DCLA directors wrote to the magazine
complaining about the accuracy of the story and
also lodged a formal complaint with the Australian
Press Council. Just prior to the story being published,
the ICD website underwent a massive redesign.
Jeweller wrote to DCLA director Roy Cohen but Cohen
declined to answer.
58 Jeweller August 2018

EVENTS
JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR
A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.
AUGUST
AUSTRALIAN OPAL
EXHIBITION
Gold Coast, QLD
August 2–3
Learn more: austopalexpo.com.au
LEADING EDGE GROUP
JEWELLERS MEMBER AND
SUPPLIER CONFERENCE
Sydney, NSW
TBA
SHOWCASE JEWELLERS
MEMBER AND SUPPLIER
CONFERENCE
Hunter Valley, NSW
August 20–24
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS
MEMBER EVENTS
(in conjunction with
International Jewellery Fair)
Sydney, NSW
August 25–27
INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY FAIR
Sydney, NSW
August 25–27
Learn more: jewelleryfair.com.
au/2018
JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR
Tokyo, Japan
August 28–30
Learn more: japanjewelleryfair.com
FACETS SRI LANKA
Colombo, Sri Lanka
August 30–September 2
Learn more: facetssrilanka.com
SEPTEMBER
INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY LONDON
London, UK
September 2–4
Learn more: jewellerylondon.com
HONG KONG WATCH &
CLOCK FAIR
Hong Kong, China
September 4–8
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/
hkwatchfair-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-
Watch-and-Clock-Fair.html
BIJORHCA PARIS
Paris, France
September 7–10
Learn more: bijorhca.com
JEWELLERS AND
WATCHMAKERS OF NEW
ZEALAND TRADE FAIR
Auckland, New Zealand
September 9–10
Learn more: jwnz.co.nz
BANGKOK GEMS
& JEWELRY FAIR
Bangkok, Thailand
TBA
Learn more: bkkgems.com
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS
ANTWERP TRIP
Antwerp, Belgium
September 22–28
INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY TOKYO
AUTUMN
Yokohama, Japan
September 24–26
Learn more: ijt-aki.jp
OCTOBER
MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY FESTIVAL
Kuala Lumpar, Malaysia
October 11–14
Learn more: mij.com.my
INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY & WATCH
SHOW
Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
October 25–29
Learn more: jws.ae
NOVEMBER
VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL
JEWELRY FAIR
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
November 8–12
Learn more: vietnamjewelryfair.com/en
CHINA INTERNATIONAL
JEWELLERY FAIR
Beijing, China
JEWELLERY ARABIA
Manama, Bahrain
November 20–24
Learn more: jewelleryarabia.com
JANUARY 2019
VICENZAORO T-GOLD
Vicenza, Italy
January 18–23
Learn more: 10times.com/t-gold
FEBRUARY 2019
TUCSON GEM, MINERAL &
FOSSIL SHOWCASE
Tucson, US
February 2 –17
Learn more: visittucson.org/events/
gem-show
JEWELLERY & WATCH
Birmingham, UK
February 3 –7
Learn more:
jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com
HONG KONG
INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND,
GEM & PEARL SHOW
Hong Kong, China
February 26 – March 2
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/hkdgp-
en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-International-
Diamond--Gem---Pearl-Show.html
November 9–13
Learn more: newayfairs.com/EN
August 2018 Jeweller 59

MY BENCH
Craig Dodd
WORKS AT: Christopher
Green Jewellers
AGE: 47
YEARS IN TRADE: 30 years
TRAINING: On the job
training with a diamond
ring maker (John M Roberts)
for 15 years
FIRST JOB: John M Roberts
Jewellers – Started in 1987
OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:
diamond ring maker,
diamond setter, designer
Favourite gemstone:
Natural deep red rubies
– especially when they’re
accompanied with bright
white diamonds.
Favourite metal:
Any metal that is not silver!
Favourite tool:
My hands (without these
nothing would get done!)
and my imagination.
Best part of job:
No two handmakes are
the same, which keeps it
challenging and interesting.
Worst part of job:
I’m yet to find one!
Best tip from a jeweller:
It’s right or it’s wrong – don’t
compromise.
Best tip to a jeweller:
Always listen to a
customer’s requirements
– you can never have too
many details.
Biggest health concern on
the bench:
Failing eyesight and
back problems.
Love jewellery because:
The pieces of jewellery that
can be created are endless.
My bench is always:
Reasonably tidy, because
it is a bench that is used
and not for display
purposes only!

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SOAPBOX
LET’S NOT LOSE THE MYSTIQUE
OF CUSTOM MADE JEWELLERY
The industry sure has changed a lot
over the years. Like many others my age,
I started out in the business with my
father, cutting gemstones and making
jewellery by hand.
Everything was passed on from one
generation to the next. Sitting alongside
another bench jeweller and learning their
techniques was one of the traditional
methods of learning.
Unfortunately a lot the ‘old guards’ who have
retired never ended up training younger
jewellers. Their businesses have closed and
their jewellery manufacturing techniques –
like the art of engraving and diamond setting
– are no more in vogue. Many techniques
are now computerised, with many jewellers
having adapted by solely using CAD/CAM to
design jewellery.
This means there are many jewellers who
have never been taught how to set or
properly repair pieces.
How’s that for doom and gloom?
Now, I don’t think the industry is actually
doomed – I think we just have a lot that needs
to be worked out.
For starters, jewellers who are entering
the trade need to be trained in all of the
fundamental techniques. At gemmological
associations for example, trainees are tested
on their competencies, where they’re marked
against a set of criteria. I think after this, these
young trainees need to be followed up on, to
ensure their techniques are still current and
that they can do the tasks they’re set.
Training facilities also need to be protected
notwithstanding the dwindling funds. Those
entering the industry need to be able to
replace a claw or a broken shank or know
how to restore jewellery back to its pristine
glory; as my father said, “Even if you hire
somebody, you need to know they’re going
to do the same standard as what you
would do yourself.”
As well as continuing to take on apprentices,
we should also be making sure that we do
everything within our power to bolster the
reputation of manufacturing jewellers. People
search for a good hairdresser or cabinetmaker
based on quality of work, so our industry
needs to do the same.
Legal professionals or accountants always
have testimonials from customers on their
website and list their credentials so that
the customer knows exactly who they’ll be
dealing with – again, I believe we should be
doing the same too.
Yes, it’s good to embrace all these new
technologies because it seems quite
inevitable that’s where the industry is
heading; however the importance of
traditional techniques is being lost. I have
too many potential customers come to our
store who stand at the front and ask, “Is there
a jeweller on the premises? Is everything
repaired on site or is it sent away?”
That says a lot to me about the current state
of the industry. It’s an issue of education – our
customers assume that there is no longer a
jeweller on the premises! They think that all
their work will be sent offshore and returned
six weeks later.
Another way we can ensure the mystique
GET OUTSIDE
YOUR COMFORT
ZONE AND TRY
SOMETHING A
LITTLE MORE
ORNATE, RATHER
THAN JUST HAVING
EVERYTHING
‘BREAD AND
BUTTER’
behind hand-made jewellery won’t be lost
is to keep educating our youth. I’m all for
fostering an interest and explaining the values
of the industry in kids from an early age.
I do some informal teaching at primary and
secondary schools, where I introduce students
to gemstones and jewellery as part of their
geology and other classes. Many of these kids
are looking forward to using their hands in the
future – and you could say I’m also looking at
many future potential customers.
What else can be done? Unfortunately, there
seems to be a notion that jewellers think they
know it all and refuse to adapt to change. I
worked beside another jeweller for 28 years,
but he was reluctant to change any of his
techniques during that time. You have to be a
bit of both – you have to carry on with some
of the original techniques as well as take on all
the new ways that might actually be better.
I think we also need to make sure we never
stop learning. There’s a variety of online
tutorials and old-fashioned books you can flick
through to get outside your comfort zone and
try something a little more ornate, rather than
just having everything ‘bread and butter.’
After all, when you get too complacent you
get redundant.
I’ve been around in the trade for 40 years,
and I’m still adapting, still making changes
and trying to figure out what’s the right
thing to do. i
Name: Alfie Gryg
Business: Allgem Jewellers
Position: Master jeweller
Location: Perth, WA
Years in the industry: 38 years
62 Jeweller August 2018

COME
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STAND F17
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AUSTRALIA
www.PinkKimberley.com.au
E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199