Welsh Country March-April 2017

The P arson &
The P ublican
THE PARSON
As the old Transport of Delight pulls up the Old Licensed
Victualler (OLV) is ambling down the drive. With his tweed cap
pulled down, tweed jacket turned up, thick beige corduroys and
stout brogues, he is a symphony of hedgerow shades. Thankfully he
stands out against the light dusting of snow or else we might never see him.
Once he’s aboard and all his tracklements stowed away (camera, snuff,
walking stick, glasses) we are off across country to Old Radnor.
St Stephan’s is perched on the side of a hill commanding spectacular
views and presents an air of well established permanence, as though it has
grown from the rock on which it sits. Large windows betoken a well lit
interior whilst a solid battlemented tower promises a safe refuge in this
wild border land.
As we walk up the path I explain to the OLV that this is
largely a rebuild of the 15th and early 16th century following
its destruction at the hands of Owain Glyndwr who burnt the
previous church down.
“At least it would have been warm in there then.” he mutters.
He has a fixed idea that all churches are perishing cold. I am
equally convinced that this is just an excuse to get into a warm
pub as soon as possible.
Our first impression on stepping into St Stephan’s is,
however, not of the temperature but rather of the space and
the play of light in it.
The richly decorated timbers of the roof bounce the light
from the large traceried windows back into the body of the
church where it plays around the tall columns of the arcades
that separates the side aisles from the nave before it is fretted
into delicate patterns on the tiles by the wonderful rood
screen that runs the width of the church.
At first this screen seems to be an artful Victorian
creation having the colour of dark honey rather than the
light silver of other mediaeval screens but this is the result
of restoration. The thing itself is wonderful original carved
with tiers of vines and leaves with bunches of grapes bearing
a strong resemblance to corn cobs!
Treasures abound here. Through a parclose screen can
be found reminders of past glories; a 15th century depiction
of St Catherine in stained glass, a mediaeval vestment chest
and 18th century depictions of Moses and Aaron which
once hung either side of the high altar. This area, once the
north chapel, is now a vestry tucked behind the organ but
what an organ. Or rather what an organ case.
The church is a remarkable building to find in so isolated
a spot but the organ case would be an incredible survival
where ever it were found. It dates from just before the
Reformation and is one of very few such survivals in the
country. How such an instrument came to be here puzzles
experts but that it is still here today is probably largely down
to its isolation.
The south chapel is a sun drenched space given over
to the memorials of the Lewis family. As my chum stands
to admire the fulsome praise heaped upon the deceased I
notice he is soaking up the warmth of the sun. It is time to
get him near a fire before he starts to moan again about cold
churches.
48 Mar-Apr 17