that works extremely well. I’ve been experimenting with cuisines that use coconut naturally, such as south Indian or Thai. When it comes to our own cuisine, I’ve been adding coconut where we might not normally <strong>—</strong> in curry, for example, or in vegetable dishes to add a certain texture.” immediately as a beverage, or aged in a process that produces vinegar.” The potential is similar to fruit vinegars like strawberry or cranberry vinegar. It can be used for salads, ceviche, or marinating meats. The book also gives an exciting survey of dishes from a range of cultures. For example, Ganeshram gives an updated version of the Filipino classic sinigang (sour tamarind soup). There’s also Thai chicken satay, Korean pancakes with coconut pajeon, Indian-inspired coconut tikka masala, and Brazilian-style coconut cashew chicken, among others. Ganeshram admits that the way Filipinos use coconut in their cuisine is most intriguing to Locally, in Trinidad and Tobago, there has been a noticeable return to a particular coconut product: coconut oil. A few years ago, cold-pressed virgin coconut oil started appearing on our shelves. It isn’t cheap, but it does tout many benefits. Coconut oil was widely used in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> as a hair product, skin moisturiser, and cooking oil for many years, but people stopped using it because it can get rancid and begin to smell awful quite quickly. The process of cold pressing makes a purer oil, and it is more effective for baking, making vinaigrettes, and even eating on its own. Lately, more people in T&T are turning to coconut oil for the health benefits. To add to the options for cooks who use coconut oil, the Coconut Growers Association launched a range of infused oils in 2017. The market for the chilli-, lemon-, and garlic-infused oils is still small, but it is growing. And of course we can’t forget one of the biggest-selling coconut products: coconut water. From a health perspective, it’s a great source of electrolytes and minerals. But for pure pleasure, A few years ago, cold-pressed virgin coconut oil started appearing on our shelves in T&T. It isn’t cheap, but it does tout many benefits her. “They use the whole fruit, she explains. “You find coconut vinegars, liquor, syrup, as well as the meat and milk. Of course, most of the commercially available coconut in the world comes from the Philippines as well. I love Filipino coconut desserts <strong>—</strong> they are so different from <strong>Caribbean</strong> desserts, straddling both Asia and Europe in format and taste.” When asked if she feels <strong>Caribbean</strong> cooks could be using coconut more creatively, Ganeshram unsurprisingly says yes. “I often say that coconut is the ‘vanilla’ of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>,” she explains. “This is both good and bad <strong>—</strong> it means it’s both everywhere but also it’s not much thought about. “We as <strong>Caribbean</strong> people could be using coconut with a lot more creativity than we do <strong>—</strong> the way that American chefs have started to use jackfruit as a meat substitute. In Cooking With Coconut, I created a ‘meaty’ vegan patty filling with coconut it is amazing. Add coconut water to any spirit, and you have a delightful drink. This is what is driving sales of coconut water across the region. In fact, the demand is so huge that some sellers are resorting to unscrupulous measures. At a coconut growers’ conference in 2017, Dr Compton Paul of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Agricultural Research Development Institute warned consumers about this. The demand for coconut water is so high, he said, that people are harvesting the nuts at five or six months of their development, when the nuts should be harvested closer to nine months. Manufacturers are also using artificial coconut water flavours, and they’re diluting the sweet coconut water to stretch it. So with the demand for coconut water and other products growing in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, it looks like it will be a while before our beloved coconut “jumps the shark.” n 54 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Immerse jason audain 55 Panorama Beauty and the beast 68 Backstory Dennery style 74 Icon The Mighty Shadow (1941–2018) 76 Closeup Barbed beauty 82 Own Words “I’ve always felt, ask me where I’m from!” A Bookman, one of T&T Carnival’s traditional masquerade characters, with his book purporting to list the names of damned souls
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Jamaica Barbados Trinidad & Tobago
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classic Wining words A Carnival fav