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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2019</strong><br />

New ideas<br />

GREAT MARKETING AND<br />

RETAILING TIPS FOR A NEW YEAR<br />

Engagement<br />

+ +<br />

ENGAGEMENT RINGS REMAIN THE<br />

BUSINESS BACKBONE FOR JEWELLERS<br />

Gold times<br />

WHAT DO THE NEXT FEWS YEARS<br />

HOLD FOR GOLD JEWELLERY?


<strong>2019</strong> Price Guide<br />

RELEASED MID FEBRUARY<br />

Phone: 1300 843 141 | Email: sales@oagems.com<br />

oagems.com


WORLD SHINER PTY. LTD.<br />

www.worldshiner.com<br />

Sydney Brisbane London<br />

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GREAT MARKETING AND<br />

RETAILING TIPS FOR A NEW YEAR<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

ENGAGEMENT RINGS REMAIN THE<br />

BUSINESS BACKBONE FOR JEWELLERS<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2019</strong><br />

WHAT DO THE NEXT FEWS YEARS<br />

HOLD FOR GOLD JEWELLERY?<br />

CONTENTS<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2019</strong><br />

18/<br />

23/<br />

29/<br />

FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />

18/ SMART RETAIL<br />

A new year calls for new ideas. We’ve<br />

compiled some helpful marketing<br />

techniques to help through <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

23/ ENGAGEMENT<br />

For most successful jewellers the<br />

engagement ring remains the<br />

backbone of their business.<br />

29/ GOLDEN FUTURE<br />

As consumers increasingly seek<br />

higher quality designs, especially<br />

custom-made, <strong>Jeweller</strong> looks at what<br />

<strong>2019</strong> and beyond might hold.<br />

9/ Editorial<br />

10/ Upfront<br />

11/ News<br />

17/ ARA<br />

33/ Gems<br />

Colour investigation: Beryl, Part 2<br />

42/ 10 Years Ago<br />

43/ Calendar<br />

44/ My Bench<br />

46/ Soapbox<br />

Hugh Kronenberg says the<br />

buying habits in the jewellery<br />

industry are changing.<br />

35/ Business feature<br />

Richard Shapiro looks at some<br />

of the significant shifts gaining<br />

foothold in the US.<br />

37/ Selling<br />

David Brown explains some<br />

up-selling tips on diamonds.<br />

38/ Management<br />

Thinking outside the square is<br />

some advice from Rich Kizer and<br />

Georganne Bender.<br />

39/ Marketing<br />

Advertising prices through online<br />

marketing can be a minefield,<br />

Jeremy Miller investigates.<br />

40/ Logged On<br />

Lilian Sue discusses some online<br />

tools that can help produce<br />

stunning photos.<br />

New ideas<br />

Engagement<br />

+ +<br />

Gold times<br />

Front cover advertiser:<br />

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diamond and jewellery suppliers,<br />

offers Galaxy collection.<br />

Visit: dsmpacific.com<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5


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EDITORIAL<br />

NEW BROOM SWEEPS CLEAN?<br />

One might hope that a new year would bring<br />

with it new ideas and hope that the Australian<br />

jewellery industry could, once again, share a<br />

united and cohesive voice.<br />

Fraught with divisiveness and politicking<br />

over the past few years, there is, or at<br />

least was, optimism that the mandatory<br />

requirement for a new JAA president in <strong>2019</strong><br />

could instill a sense of anticipation among<br />

members that the past could be left behind.<br />

As previously reported, the JAA constitution<br />

required former president Mr Selwyn Brandt<br />

to step down from the board after seven years<br />

in the president’s chair. Many hoped that<br />

a new president, along with new faces on<br />

the board, would allow the industry to put<br />

aside the enormous division and disharmony<br />

brought to the fore when the JAA decided to<br />

launch its own jewellery trade fair.<br />

Not only was that decision proven to be<br />

an enormous mistake, plummeting the<br />

association into a member and revenue<br />

freefall, it also caused huge embarrassment on<br />

many fronts. So, it became that <strong>2019</strong> was time<br />

for a new president, and Ms Jo Tory, managing<br />

director of jewellery supplier Najo, stepped up<br />

to the plate. She has a tough gig. Very tough!<br />

Australia’s so-called ‘peak industry body’ is<br />

facing enormous challenges, almost all of its<br />

own doing. The major focus of the current<br />

JAA board of five – one position remains<br />

vacant – would surely be to re-unite the<br />

industry in an attempt to put past differences<br />

behind. The split caused by the JAA’s decision<br />

to put members funds at risk to create a<br />

large commercial venture and the resulting<br />

unseemly and tasteless conduct that<br />

followed, saw retail and supplier members<br />

quit the JAA en masse.<br />

When confronted with people who had been<br />

JAA members for decades quitting – along<br />

with a list of your own former board members<br />

also ‘resigning’ their membership (as the JAA<br />

calls it) – one would hope that they could<br />

see a problem. But no, the JAA pushed on<br />

throughout last year hoping the membership<br />

freefall would stop or, miraculously, reverse.<br />

It hasn’t; JAA membership fell another 15<br />

per cent last year, which came after a<br />

19 per cent decline in FY17. That’s a 31<br />

per cent drop in two years which means<br />

membership income did not even cover<br />

the cost to run the JAA office.<br />

Worse than that, total JAA revenue fell<br />

by 18 per cent to $390,546 and the JAA’s<br />

new ‘auditor’ was not happy with the FY18<br />

accounts, giving them a “Qualified Opinion”;<br />

and that’s not a good thing. (See page 12)<br />

So, having painted the financial picture, you<br />

can begin to see why Tory is confronted with<br />

a massive task. Not only does she have to<br />

reinvigorate the JAA’s finances – it has lost a<br />

staggering $320,000–$370,000 over the past<br />

five years – Tory has to attempt to resolve the<br />

differences between a number of major and<br />

pivotal industry participants.<br />

JAA<br />

MEMBERSHIP<br />

FELL ANOTHER<br />

15 PER CENT<br />

LAST YEAR,<br />

WHICH CAME<br />

AFTER A 19 PER<br />

CENT DECLINE IN<br />

FY17. THAT’S A 31<br />

PER CENT DROP<br />

IN TWO YEARS<br />

Can she do that? Well, knowing the<br />

determined Tory she will give it a good shot.<br />

However, one of the hurdles she faces is the<br />

fact that she was an avid supporter of the very<br />

decisions that drove a wedge through the<br />

industry in 2016-17 when a very small group<br />

of industry suppliers convinced the JAA to<br />

launch its own, costly, trade show. The very<br />

show that ultimately caused the JAA to lose<br />

an enormous amount of members’ money!<br />

And therein lies my bewilderment at<br />

appointing another president from the<br />

supplier side.<br />

The JAA is, and has always been, primarily<br />

a retailer-based association, however, not<br />

since Peter Beever in 2011 has there been a<br />

president from the retail side. That’s eight<br />

years, and if there was ever a time for the JAA<br />

to be headed by a retailer, rather than being<br />

driven by suppliers, I would have thought<br />

this year was it.<br />

A retailer president, in my mind, would have<br />

more chance of reuniting the industry than<br />

a supplier president, especially one that<br />

actively supported the JAA’s past mistakes.<br />

But who knows, Tory might see that as an<br />

added challenge and successfully stop the<br />

supplier bickering that has plagued the<br />

industry for so long.<br />

Only time will tell.<br />

Coleby Nicholson<br />

Managing Editor<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9


UPFRONT<br />

Round brilliant<br />

cut. It is a classic<br />

cut and it will<br />

always exist.<br />

What is your favourite cut diamond?<br />

I would have to<br />

say round cut,<br />

purely because of<br />

its lustre.<br />

Trillion cut,<br />

because it’s<br />

different and a<br />

bit individual<br />

compared to more<br />

common cuts.<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN<br />

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher & Editor<br />

Coleby Nicholson<br />

Associate Publisher<br />

Angela Han<br />

angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Journalist<br />

Myles Hume<br />

myles.hume@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

MAULIN SHAH,<br />

WORLD SHINER<br />

DURGESH GUPTA,<br />

J.B AND BROTHERS<br />

VICKI GLYKAS, THE<br />

GEMSTONE TRADING<br />

COMPANY<br />

Advertising Manager<br />

Julie-Anne Bosworth<br />

julieanne@jewellermagazine.com<br />

BULLETIN BOARD<br />

n INSTA-ENGAGEMENT<br />

Online mood board creator Pinterest has<br />

announced “the world’s most popular<br />

engagement ring” with the most “pins”<br />

on its site. The favourite among users is<br />

an art deco-inspired solitaire 1.2-carat<br />

diamond on a rose gold band. The<br />

image was saved over 103,900 times.<br />

n VENDING THEFT<br />

Pantone Color Institute has announced<br />

the 12 colours it believes will drive<br />

trends in the Northern Hemisphere<br />

spring/summer <strong>2019</strong>. Fiesta reddishorange<br />

and bright turmeric are the top<br />

two while olive green and rich crimson<br />

is also thought to trend. Will bright<br />

gemstones set in rose gold dominate<br />

the sales next season?<br />

n SWAROVSKI RETAIL<br />

London’s Oxford Street is the home of<br />

a new Swarovski flagship store, which<br />

the brand has used to integrate digital<br />

interactive and “immersive” shopping<br />

experiences. The store hosts a virtual<br />

jewellery station where shoppers can<br />

try on pieces from the collection using<br />

electronic imagery. A gift-wrapping<br />

station and personalisation “sparkle bar”<br />

will also provide consumers with unique<br />

shopping experiences.<br />

DIGITAL<br />

BRAINWAVE<br />

THE WAR ON BOTS<br />

If retailers use an artificially intelligent<br />

(AI) “chat bot” on their websites, they<br />

may wish to think carefully about how it<br />

interacts with consumers. Many online<br />

retailers use bots on their sites as a tool to help consumers find particular products or<br />

services, but the Californian Government has issued a law that will come into effect July<br />

<strong>2019</strong> whereby all bots must disclose they are indeed robots and not humans. From now<br />

on bots which sell products in California must state something to the effect of “Hi, I’m a<br />

robot, how may I help you?”<br />

TOP PRODUCT<br />

The traditional handicrafts of the Native Americans, futuristic talismans<br />

such as the lizard, eagle, scorpion, dreamcatcher, and sun symbol<br />

inspire THOMAS SABO’s new collection titled Arizona Colours and<br />

step across the boundary between good-luck charms and mysticism.<br />

As pendants or signet rings created through elaborate processes of<br />

design and manufacture, the strong graphical lines and vibrant colour<br />

palette revive symbols from the original American Southwest.<br />

Production Manager<br />

& Graphic Design<br />

Jo De Bono<br />

art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Accounts<br />

Paul Blewitt<br />

finance@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Subscriptions<br />

info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />

Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />

VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />

ABN 64 930 790 434<br />

Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />

Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />

info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />

Copyright: All material appearing<br />

in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />

Reproduction in whole or in part is<br />

strictly forbidden without prior written<br />

consent of the publisher.<br />

Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />

report accurately and fairly and it is<br />

our policy to correct significant errors<br />

of fact and misleading statements in<br />

the next available issue. All statements<br />

made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />

the time, cannot be guaranteed and<br />

no fault or liability can be accepted<br />

for error or omission. Any comment<br />

relating to subjective opinions should<br />

be addressed to the editor.<br />

Advertising: The publisher reserves<br />

the right to omit or alter any<br />

advertisement to comply with<br />

Australian law and the advertiser<br />

agrees to indemnify the publisher for<br />

all damages or liabilities arising from<br />

the published material.<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


NEWS<br />

NEWS<br />

Michael Hill fined for misleading<br />

consumers on warranties<br />

Michael Hill’s New Zealand operating<br />

company has been fined $NZ169,000<br />

($AU160,000) after it breached warranty<br />

disclosure laws and misled customers into<br />

paying for warranties they did not agree to.<br />

In what Wellington District Court Judge<br />

Denys Barry labelled a “significant set of<br />

failings”, Michael Hill New Zealand Ltd<br />

admitted to 13 charges in November – 12<br />

of which related to its Professional Care Plan<br />

(PCP) failing to include complete extended<br />

warranty information under the country’s<br />

Fair Trading Act.<br />

According to the Commerce Commission<br />

– the prosecuting body – the jewellery<br />

retailer’s omissions included a comparison<br />

of protections consumers automatically had<br />

under the Consumer Guarantees Act (CGA)<br />

on the front page of the PCP warranty. It<br />

also did not provide an adequate summary<br />

of consumer rights and remedies under the<br />

CGA, nor did it detail the consumers’ right<br />

to cancel the PCP.<br />

The company also admitted to misleading<br />

a couple in June 2016 who had the<br />

$NZ149 cost of the PCP added to the<br />

sale price of a bracelet without their<br />

knowledge. They were later refunded the<br />

warranty price after complaining.<br />

Judge Barry said the breaches were “not a<br />

mere minor oversight” by Michael Hill: “[It]<br />

impugns the objectives of the FTA as<br />

consumers had no immediately discernible<br />

comparison between their rights under the<br />

CGA and those covered by the PCP.”<br />

“The financial harm to the couple [the<br />

consumers] was caused by the conflation<br />

of the warranty price with the price of the<br />

bracelet. The consumers were effectively<br />

guiled into paying for the warranty product.”<br />

Commerce Commissioner Anna Rawlings<br />

said the law clearly stated the information<br />

that must be provided to consumers when<br />

selling an extended warranty.<br />

“That information helps consumers to<br />

decide whether an extended warranty<br />

offers them value over and above the rights<br />

they already have under the CGA. They can<br />

MICHAEL HILL NZ IN COURT<br />

then decide whether it is worth the extra<br />

cost,” she said.<br />

The case has since called into question<br />

the sales practices of some New Zealand<br />

jewellery retailers, with the Commerce<br />

Commission confirming it is now assessing<br />

four further complaints against Michael<br />

Hill and one relating to its rival, Pascoes<br />

The <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />

According to Stuff.co.nz, recent complaints<br />

have included one customer paying more<br />

for a piece of jewellery than advertised<br />

because of apparent fluctuations in the<br />

exchange rate, and another refused a<br />

refund despite feeling pressured into<br />

buying a piece on finance arranged by<br />

Michael Hill.<br />

In a statement, a spokesperson for<br />

Michael Hill said the company had been<br />

“fully cooperating” with the Commerce<br />

Commission and chose not to contest<br />

the technical classification of a PCP as an<br />

extended warranty in this case.<br />

“We will make the necessary changes to<br />

our sales brochure to reflect the extended<br />

warranty classification, which include a<br />

comparison table within the terms and<br />

conditions to clarify and differentiate the<br />

protections of the Consumer Guarantees<br />

Act and the unique benefits and services<br />

of a PCP.”<br />

+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

Chilean jewellery<br />

gang members<br />

charged, extradited<br />

Arrested members of a South American<br />

crime syndicate are facing multiple<br />

criminal charges after allegedly stealing<br />

more than $1 million in jewellery and<br />

other luxury items throughout Australia.<br />

Police filed more than 65 criminal<br />

charges against eight alleged gang<br />

members believed to be responsible for<br />

a series of burglaries in shopping centres<br />

and homes throughout Melbourne and<br />

Sydney over several months.<br />

It is alleged the international organised<br />

crime gang stole an estimated<br />

$1.2 million worth of luxury goods,<br />

designer clothing and sporting gear<br />

before sending them back to Chile, or<br />

converting the items into cash to be<br />

transferred into overseas bank accounts.<br />

One of the suspects, Anastassia Saavedra<br />

Urzua, 19, was arrested in Melbourne<br />

and has been extradited to face court<br />

in Sydney, while two other members<br />

– Guiovanni Saladrigas Garcia, 22, and<br />

Diana Veloso Hernandez, 36 – remain in<br />

police custody.<br />

Garcia has been charged with 19 counts<br />

of aggravated break, enter and steal<br />

charges, while Hernandez has been<br />

charged with 19 counts. Two other<br />

male members who have been charged<br />

in Melbourne were also extradited to<br />

Sydney in late December.<br />

The reamainder of the arrested syndicate<br />

members, with ages ranging from 22<br />

to 28, have also been charged with<br />

similar multiple offences before the<br />

Central and Burwood Local Courts.<br />

Australian authorities believed more<br />

syndicate members remained at-large,<br />

including a possible ringleader based<br />

in Sydney, noting that the crimes were<br />

well-planned. Detective superintendent<br />

Daniel Doherty told the Sydney Morning<br />

Herald: “They had lookouts, they had<br />

stories ready to go about why they<br />

were in the area. It is a very coordinated<br />

criminal group.”<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 11


NEWS<br />

More problems with JAA financial reports<br />

The JAA’s new audit firm has called its 2018<br />

Financial Statements into question and also<br />

identified a significant error in last year’s<br />

financial report to members.<br />

In an audit Review Report, Jeffrey Tulk,<br />

partner at Saward Dawson Chartered<br />

Accountants, identified the error, which also<br />

contained a ‘qualified opinion’, resulting in<br />

a ‘retrospective restatement’ of the 2017<br />

Financial Statements.<br />

Such a correction is yet more cause for<br />

embarrassment to the JAA over the state<br />

of its financial affairs, given that the FY17<br />

accounts published to members not only<br />

reported a substantial loss (-$132,000), but<br />

also was error-ridden.<br />

The FY17 statements contained five different<br />

trading results even though the six-member<br />

board, and its previous ‘auditor’, approved<br />

the accounting report. The glaring errors,<br />

first identified by <strong>Jeweller</strong>, led the JAA<br />

to seek further accounting advice in an<br />

attempt to rectify the FY17 accounts which<br />

were corrected.<br />

However, in preparing the FY18 Financial<br />

Statements, provided to the Australian<br />

Charities and Not-for-profits Commission<br />

(ACNC) in December, the review report by<br />

the new JAA auditor – the third in three years<br />

– identified more errors in the FY17 accounts,<br />

this time related to people no longer working<br />

at the JAA!<br />

Tulk’s report identified an additional<br />

$24,551 error “for provisions for annual<br />

leave held for employees that were<br />

no longer employed at the JAA”. He<br />

subsequently issued a ‘retrospective<br />

restatement’ for the FY17 accounts.<br />

However, of more concern to JAA members<br />

is the fact that Saward Dawson’s FY18 review<br />

showing a $31,000 profit to June 2018 is<br />

‘qualified’, in essence calling into the question<br />

the validity of the financial result.<br />

According to Australian Accounting<br />

Standards (AAS), “A qualified opinion is<br />

issued when a specific part of the financial<br />

statements contains a material misstatement<br />

or adequate evidence cannot be obtained<br />

in a specific, material area, and the rest of the<br />

financial statements are found to present<br />

a true and fair view, in accordance with<br />

accounting standards.”<br />

Additionally, the Australian Securities and<br />

Investments Commission’s (ASIC) website<br />

states: “A qualified audit report is a prima facie<br />

indication that the company has not met its<br />

obligations under the Act.”<br />

At page 14 Tulk notes: “Basis for Qualified<br />

Conclusion - <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia<br />

Limited has an outstanding amount of<br />

$50,000 included in accounts receivable.<br />

The amount is over 12 months old and is in<br />

legal dispute. There is insufficient evidence<br />

provided to show the amount will be<br />

recoverable as at year end.”<br />

It is understood that the $50,000 figure<br />

pertains to a long-standing dispute with<br />

Expertise Events which dates back to<br />

April 2016.<br />

The chartered accountant’s report calls into<br />

question the accuracy of the FY18 financial<br />

statements because the JAA knowingly<br />

records the $50,000 as a trade receivable,<br />

even though the debt has been disputed for<br />

more than 24 months and Tulk advises that<br />

the JAA board has not provided evidence<br />

that it’s recoverable.<br />

When contacted regarding the $50,000<br />

continuing to be recorded as an asset, Tulk<br />

advised: “You have to ask the [JAA] directors<br />

that question. I have explained why I can’t<br />

sign off on that as an unmodified opinion<br />

within that qualification.”<br />

Interestingly, as <strong>Jeweller</strong> reported last year, the<br />

board approved the FY17 accounts with a<br />

zero balance for impairment (bad debts and<br />

write-offs), despite knowing that a $50,000<br />

debt was in legal dispute. However, the JAA<br />

has since written-off $33,473 for the past 12<br />

months, which is an additional amount to the<br />

legal dispute.<br />

If the $50,000, two-year old debt were<br />

written off in FY18, in accordance with AAS<br />

rules for ‘Impairment and Uncollectibility<br />

of Financial Assets’ and in accordance<br />

with the report’s Qualified Conclusion, the<br />

JAA’s 2018 trading result would have been<br />

another loss (-$19,000).<br />

The bad news does not stop there.<br />

Since making the ill-fated decision to<br />

launch its own jewellery trade fair more<br />

than two years ago – thereby dividing the<br />

industry – membership numbers, revenue,<br />

and membership fees have all continued<br />

to decline.<br />

The JAA’s revenue fell by 18 per cent to<br />

JO TORY, JAA<br />

MEMBERSHIP<br />

NUMBERS HAVE<br />

DROPPED AGAIN,<br />

WITH A FURTHER<br />

15 PER CENT OF<br />

MEMBERS QUITTING<br />

THE ASSOCIATION<br />

LAST FINANCIAL<br />

YEAR.<br />

$390,546 in FY18, following a 12 per cent<br />

decline in 2017, bringing the total revenue fall<br />

to 28 per cent since FY16.<br />

Membership numbers have dropped again,<br />

with a further 15 per cent of members<br />

quitting the association last financial year.<br />

JAA membership is now at an all-time low<br />

(514), having fallen by 31 per cent in the past<br />

two years.<br />

Consequently FY18 membership income<br />

did not cover the cost to run the JAA office.<br />

Falling by 13 per cent over the 2017 year,<br />

JAA membership fees were outweighed<br />

by the basic expenses of running its<br />

office. That is, membership income fell to<br />

$248,000 while staff, office tenancy, general<br />

admin and computer expenses amounted<br />

to more than $270,000.<br />

Membership income has fallen by 23 per<br />

cent since 2016. Further analysis shows that<br />

the two-year old $50,000 amount called into<br />

question by Saward Dawson, now represents<br />

20 per cent of the JAA’s FY18 membership<br />

income or 13 per cent of its total ‘assets’.<br />

On a positive note, the JAA’s operating<br />

expenses were slashed by 44 per cent, from<br />

$582,858 in FY17 to $325,909 last year. The<br />

two major savings were the relocation from<br />

its stand-alone York Street, Sydney premises<br />

to serviced offices, saving $44,000, and a<br />

$140,000 reduction in staff expenses.<br />

The latter was due to the May 2017<br />

departure of its former executive director,<br />

Amanda Hunter, whose remuneration<br />

represented 52 cents in every JAA<br />

membership dollar. The JAA has yet to<br />

appoint a new executive director.<br />

The JAA’s November AGM saw the re-election<br />

of two elected directors for a further two-year<br />

term. Cameron Marks continues in the same<br />

position he has held since May 2017 while Jo<br />

Tory moved to an elected director position,<br />

from the previous position of co-opted<br />

director. Selwyn Brandt stood down as JAA<br />

president on 31 December. He had been a<br />

board member for seven years and the JAA<br />

constitution forbids another term. Tory was<br />

announced as new president on 8 January.<br />

Three other directors will continue in their<br />

roles: George Proszkowiec - buying group<br />

director, Ronnie Bauer - retail director and<br />

Karen Lindley - supplier director, which leaves<br />

one board position still vacant.<br />

12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


NEWS<br />

Lion Brands closes its watch business<br />

More changes at<br />

Pandora Australia<br />

as Kruse moves<br />

Pandora has named Phil McNutt as the<br />

new managing director for Australia<br />

and New Zealand, coinciding with the<br />

recommendation of two new candidates<br />

for the company’s upcoming board<br />

elections.<br />

McNutt previously served as president<br />

of Sunglass Hut Australia and New<br />

Zealand for 11 years and has held various<br />

executive posts in North America and<br />

Asia prior to the Pandora appointment.<br />

LION BRANDS FOUNDER GRAEME GOLDMAN ON OPENEING OF 8TH AVENUE WATCH CO STORES<br />

Lion Brands, a distributor of high-end Swiss<br />

watches, suddenly closed its business last<br />

week. Phone calls to the Melbourne head<br />

office on Friday were met with a recorded<br />

message saying, “This number is no longer in<br />

service and you cannot leave a message.”<br />

Lion Brands represented 12 high profile<br />

brands including Bell & Ross, Alpina,<br />

Frederique Constant, Corumm, Edox,<br />

Wenger, and Victorinox. The company also<br />

operates two retail stores under the name<br />

8th Avenue Watch Co, which claim to be<br />

“Australia’s largest retailer of independent<br />

Swiss Made watches”.<br />

The stores opened in 2015 and are located<br />

at Emporium Shopping Centre, Melbourne,<br />

and Pacific Fair on the Gold Coast, however,<br />

according to 8th Avenue staff, they are set to<br />

close on 28 <strong>February</strong>.<br />

“We have to pack up all the stock at the<br />

end of the month and send it back to<br />

Melbourne,” a staff member explained. The<br />

stores’ website is now promoting “Big brand<br />

watch sale now on”.<br />

Lion Brands’ website makes no mention<br />

of it closing. Graeme Goldman, a former<br />

managing director of The Swatch Group<br />

Australia, established Lion Brands in 2011. The<br />

company’s ‘About Us’ page states Goldman<br />

started the company because “he had a<br />

dream about building a multi-brand watch<br />

distribution business to fill a gap in the<br />

marketplace. With the help of a dedicated<br />

team and our retail partners, this dream<br />

continues to grow from strength to strength”.<br />

Upon establishing that the company’s<br />

phone number was disconnected, <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

telephoned Goldman, who said he was<br />

unaware the business had been closed,<br />

stating: “I’ve been out of it since the end of<br />

October [last year]”.<br />

Goldman said he was surprised at the<br />

closure, and directed further enquiries<br />

to his former business partner, Anthony<br />

Hoffman. Hoffman owns a separate<br />

architecture and interior design business,<br />

with which the watch supplier shared<br />

offices in Glenhuntly, Melbourne.<br />

When asked for Hoffman’s phone number,<br />

Goldman advised: “I don’t have his phone<br />

number. I deleted all his details when I exited<br />

the business relationship, so he’s out of my life<br />

and I’m out of his life.”<br />

Goldman said that he got out of the business<br />

for personal reasons.<br />

Attempts to contact Hoffman directly<br />

were unsuccessful; the company’s brand<br />

manager, Joshua Goodman also said he<br />

didn’t have Hoffman’s number. Goodman’s<br />

Linkedin profile indicates that he started<br />

with Lion Brands in <strong>February</strong> 2015 and<br />

ended in <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

Australian Securities and Investments<br />

Commission (ASIC) records confirm that<br />

Goldman ceased being a director on 7<br />

November 2018. He has played an active<br />

role in Entrepreneurs’ Organisation, which<br />

bills itself as a “Global business network<br />

of 13,000+ leading entrepreneurs in 185<br />

chapters and 58 countries”.<br />

Commenting on the move, Pandora<br />

Asia-Pacific president Kenneth Madsen<br />

said, “He is an energetic, inclusive and<br />

collaborative leader who highly values<br />

a warm and supportive culture which<br />

grows, develops and unites its talent in<br />

pursuit of ambitious goals, whilst always<br />

demonstrating respect and appreciation<br />

for the individuals, team and customers.”<br />

McNutt will take over from Mikael Kruse<br />

who held the position for nearly two<br />

years. Kruse will move to Germany for his<br />

appointment as managing director for<br />

Northern Europe.<br />

“I’m very excited about joining Pandora.<br />

It’s a global brand I’ve long admired<br />

with a wonderful reputation in the<br />

marketplace, and<br />

my experience in<br />

the process has<br />

certainly validated<br />

my belief.<br />

“My in-store<br />

customer service<br />

experiences have<br />

impressed me with<br />

PHIL MCNUTT,<br />

PANDORA<br />

beautifully presented stores and staff who<br />

clearly have great passion and pride for<br />

the products,” McNutt said.<br />

Meanwhile, the Pandora Board of<br />

Directors has recommended two new<br />

candidates for the coming election of<br />

board members for its 13 March AGM,<br />

as the current members stand for reelection.<br />

Isabelle Parize, from France, and the UK’s<br />

Sir John Peace have been acting as Board<br />

advisors effective January, according to<br />

board chairman Peder Tuborgh.<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 13


NEWS<br />

Gemboree<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Rock The<br />

Tropics Tour<br />

A nine-day geo-journey adventure across<br />

the Australian Outback and will follow<br />

Gemboree <strong>2019</strong>, showcasing the natural<br />

wonders of Central Queensland.<br />

Organised by the Gemmological<br />

Association of Australia (GAA), Rock the<br />

Tropics Tour will run from April 23 to May<br />

2. The once-in-a-life-trip will begin after<br />

the completion of the 55th gathering<br />

of Gemboree <strong>2019</strong> and the GAA<br />

Symposium in Rockhampton, which takes<br />

place from April 19-22.<br />

Beginning at Rockhampton and<br />

ending at Longreach Airport, the tour<br />

will trace The Tropic of Capricorn and<br />

follow a historical journey involving<br />

the extinction of species, landscape<br />

transformations and a living museum of<br />

fossils and mineral wealth.<br />

In conjunction with the Australian<br />

Federation of Lapidary and Allied Crafts<br />

Associations (AFLACA), the tour will<br />

visit Mt Hay Gem Park Thundereggs,<br />

Blackwater Coal Museum, Central<br />

Queensland University, Clermont Gold<br />

Prospecting, among many others.<br />

Side excursions will include Lake<br />

Maraboon (Redclaw Fishing),<br />

ANZAC Dawn Service, Ilfracombe<br />

Artesian Spa, Stockman’s Hall of Fame,<br />

QANTAS Museum.<br />

Meanwhile, AFLACA has announced<br />

a fundraising raffle for Gemboree<br />

<strong>2019</strong>. For-sale items include a 8.5<br />

carat Sapphire pendant donated by<br />

Coolamon Mining worth $5,934, a<br />

Chrysophase and Sapphire earrings set<br />

in gold donated by Rod Beattie worth<br />

$4,168, a Boulder Opal and Sapphire<br />

Brooch/Pendant set worth $3,905 and<br />

a silver Filigree bracelet and earring set<br />

from George Weier worth $1,185.<br />

Josh Zarb joins Expertise Events<br />

Former general manager of Leading Edge<br />

Group <strong>Jeweller</strong>s (LEGJ), Josh Zarb, has<br />

joined Expertise Events. He assumed the<br />

position on 14 January, having left LEGJ in<br />

December last year.<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director Expertise<br />

Events, believes Zarb’s experience will be a<br />

valuable addition to the business that runs<br />

trade and consumer events across Australasia.<br />

“I am pleased to announce the appointment<br />

of Joshua as general manager. Josh has had a<br />

long association with Expertise previously as<br />

general manager of the fashion and lifestyle<br />

of division at the Leading Edge Group.<br />

“He has been responsible for the group’s<br />

growth and success, organised their<br />

education and group conferences along with<br />

a number of unique activities and brings a<br />

wealth of knowledge from a retail perspective<br />

and management delivery,” Fitz-Roy said.<br />

Zarb spent more than 12 years at LEGJ<br />

and was instrumental in the growth of the<br />

buying group.<br />

“During the time I managed the jewellery<br />

buying group it grew the group from 82<br />

stores to 214 stores as it stood before I<br />

finished up. The biggest catalyst for growth<br />

was our exhibition at the International<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair where we took the opportunity<br />

to show everything that we offered and<br />

gather leads in a complete Open Door<br />

approach, which at the time differed from our<br />

competitors,” Zarb said.<br />

“I am a passionate believer in the experience<br />

offered at conferences, trade shows and<br />

events - hence my exuberance when the<br />

notion of working at Expertise became reality.”<br />

While at LEGJ, Zarb was responsible for<br />

hosting and running jewellery conferences<br />

and trade shows, book and music industry<br />

conferences, and presented various retail<br />

and management training at more than 20<br />

additional industry conferences.<br />

Zarb told <strong>Jeweller</strong> that he “left Leading<br />

Edge at the end of December with nothing<br />

but love and fond memories - with many<br />

relationships formed that will last a lifetime.<br />

The business will always remain dear to me<br />

and I know it will continue thrive.”<br />

HK group adopts diamond blockchain<br />

Hong Kong-based jeweller Chow Tai Fook<br />

is the latest industry leader to join De Beers’<br />

blockchain pilot program that aims to thwart<br />

the supply of fraudulent and conflict stones.<br />

The move sees De Beer’s Tracr program<br />

extend its reach into the Asian diamond<br />

sector, particularly in Greater China, as<br />

it attempts to facilitate ethical diamond<br />

shopping and management.<br />

Tracr is an asset-tracking platform powered<br />

by blockchain and artificial intelligence<br />

(AI). It ’s said to provide consumers with<br />

confidence that registered diamonds are<br />

natural and ethical, improving visibility and<br />

trust within the industry and enhancing<br />

efficiencies across the value chain.<br />

“Authenticity, provenance, and traceability<br />

are increasingly important in the jewellery<br />

JOSH ZARB, NEW GM EXPERTISE EVENTS<br />

sector, particularly for consumers who<br />

pursue to know the jewellery they purchase<br />

supports their values and expectations,”<br />

Chow Tai Fook managing director Kent<br />

Wong said.<br />

“We are thrilled to join the pilot led by<br />

De Beers Group and are committed to<br />

continuing to be a leader in uplifting<br />

consumer experience and confidence. We<br />

believe that our participation in Tracr will<br />

help ensure we are at the forefront of this<br />

important issue.”<br />

The retailer’s endorsement is expected to<br />

accelerate Tracr’s mission of establishing a<br />

digital ledger that spans the entire diamond<br />

pipeline and ensure the platform made by<br />

the diamond industry meets the needs of all<br />

sector participants.<br />

14 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


NEWS<br />

Sam makes Australia Day Honours List<br />

Renowned Australian watchmaker Sarkis<br />

‘Sam’ Der Bedrossian has been made a<br />

Member of the Order of Australia.<br />

The founder of SAMS Group Australia, best<br />

known for designing and distributing the<br />

Classique timepiece brand, featured on the<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Australia Day Honours List for service<br />

in a particular locality or field of activity or<br />

to a particular group.<br />

Der Bedrossian, who is of Armenian<br />

descent, emigrated to Australia from<br />

Egypt in 1964 as an accountant, but soon<br />

turned a childhood dream into a profession<br />

working for the Railway Clocks Contractors<br />

repairing train guard pocket watches and<br />

bus-stop clocks.<br />

His experience with Swiss watches came<br />

a year later at Neuchatel Watch Sales, but<br />

in 1967 Der Bedrossian decided to start his<br />

own business, Sams Watchmaker <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

and within months he had enough clients<br />

to move to an office in Sydney’s Market<br />

Street and employ his first watchmaker.<br />

His focus shifted from assembling watches<br />

for others to designing his own Classique<br />

brand, with the Swiss-quality timepieces<br />

becoming a flagship product for his<br />

company. Today, Classique’s wide range of<br />

watches include men’s and women’s dress<br />

watches, fashion, solid gold, chronographs,<br />

as well as pocket and pendant watches.<br />

Although better known as Classique<br />

Watches, in 2011, Sams Watchmaker<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> rebranded as SAMS Group<br />

Australia and expanded its offering by<br />

taking on the distribution of fashion<br />

jewellery brand Tresor Paris and RM<br />

SAM DER BEDROSSIAN AWARDED AM<br />

Williams’ watches. Today, the company<br />

also represents Pink Kimberley Diamonds<br />

Australia and Blush Pink Diamonds.<br />

Alongside his contributions to the<br />

watchmaking sector, Der Bedrossian has<br />

also been a highly active member in<br />

Australia’s Armenian community.<br />

In being made a Member of the Order<br />

of Australia, he was recognised for his<br />

involvement in a range of roles, including<br />

the Diocesan Council of the Armenian<br />

Apostolic Church of Australia and New<br />

Zealand, Homenetmen - Armenian General<br />

Athletic Union and Scouts (pan-Armenian<br />

diaspora association) and Homenetmen<br />

Regional Committee of Australia.<br />

He is a benefactor and supporter of both<br />

TAFE NSW and Watch and Clockmakers<br />

Australia, and was a past benefactor<br />

and supporter of the WOSTEP Program<br />

at RMIT University, Melbourne. He was<br />

also a recipient of the Arjanyats Medal,<br />

Homenetmen in 2013 and the Ardagark<br />

Medal in 1995. In 1987 he was named New<br />

South Wales Exporter of the Year.<br />

Baselworld and SIHH collaborate<br />

Two of the world’s leading timepiece trade<br />

fairs are collaborating by syncronising their<br />

show dates in a bid to reinvigorate the sector.<br />

Organisers of Salon International de la<br />

Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) and Baselworld<br />

have agreed to hold their respective events<br />

back-to-back on the 2020 Swiss trade show<br />

calendar. SIHH will run from April 26-29 in<br />

Geneva, followed immediately by Baselworld<br />

– 255km away – from April 30-May 5.<br />

The move came in response to several<br />

exhibitor cancellations, including the Swatch<br />

Group, which owns brands such as Omega,<br />

Breguet and Harry Winston, which withdrew<br />

from Baselworld.<br />

SIHH also had its share of exhibitor defections<br />

last year, with participants saying it was costly<br />

to attend two fairs in a calendar year, given<br />

their geographical proximity.<br />

“Our two events have always been different,<br />

yet complementary,” Fondation de la Haute<br />

Horlogerie president and managing director<br />

Ms Fabienne Lupo, which organises SIHH, said<br />

in a statement.<br />

+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

Applicants pour in<br />

for Nationwide’s free<br />

diamond training<br />

Australia’s largest jewellery group,<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, has experienced an<br />

overwhelming uptake in its free diamond<br />

training program since its launch last year.<br />

According to the company’s managing<br />

director Colin Pocklington, “Booking<br />

forms started arriving before the formal<br />

email announcement was sent and even<br />

more applications came in via the group’s<br />

Facebook page.” So far, more than 30<br />

members are on the <strong>2019</strong> waiting list.<br />

With more than 500 stores across<br />

Australasia, Nationwide’s diamond expert<br />

Cindy Eidukevicius-Jones conducts<br />

the training for the region’s members<br />

and staff, aiming to enhance industry<br />

knowledge, skills and, ultimately, sales.<br />

Jones is a Fellow of the GAA, a GAA<br />

Gemmology Graduate, an HRD Graduate<br />

and has obtained a Diploma in Diamond<br />

Technology. She has also conducted<br />

diamond training at trade fairs for<br />

more than 15 years, and guided group<br />

members through Antwerp diamond<br />

transactions.<br />

“With trading continuing to be difficult<br />

in the jewellery industry, we are always<br />

looking at ways to further assist our<br />

members,” Pocklington said.<br />

“The demand for custom design and<br />

make continues to grow, so it is important<br />

that jewellers have strategies to attract a<br />

significant share of this market.”<br />

The group will set to schedule the<br />

dates for its Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business<br />

Management Course. The course is part<br />

of its Industry Best Practice Program<br />

and is comprised of 10 modules which<br />

includes marketing, visual merchandising,<br />

personnel and business ownership.<br />

Launched in August 2018, the course<br />

developed as part of a response to<br />

difficult trading conditions in recent years.<br />

“It covers all of the components or ‘hats’<br />

that a successful jewellery business owner<br />

or manager needs to be competent with.<br />

But it goes a step further and introduces<br />

several aspects of retail science that until<br />

now have not been implemented by<br />

smaller retailers,” Pocklington said.<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 15


NEWS<br />

WGC forecasts<br />

brighter prospects<br />

for gold in <strong>2019</strong><br />

The World Gold Council (WGC) is<br />

optimistic about an improved price<br />

performance this year after facing<br />

“significant headwinds” in 2018.<br />

Gold demand stands to benefit from the<br />

impending interplay of market risk and<br />

economic growth, consequently driving<br />

up its price, according to the WGC report<br />

Outlook <strong>2019</strong>: Economic Trends and Their<br />

Impact on Gold.<br />

The sector faced major challenges for the<br />

majority of 2018, but shifted positively<br />

towards the last quarter driven by a<br />

stronger US dollar, Federal rate hikes and<br />

a better-performing US economy.<br />

“These factors fuelled positive investor<br />

sentiment which, in turn, pushed US<br />

stock prices higher, at least until the start<br />

of October,” the report stated.<br />

The WGC expects many global dynamics<br />

seeded over the past two years and risks<br />

that emerged later in 2018 to carry over<br />

this year, triggering a set of trends that<br />

will be key in determining gold’s demand<br />

over the short and long term.<br />

Gold also outperformed most global<br />

assets by the end of 2018. The WGC<br />

believes increased market uncertainty<br />

and the expansion of protectionist<br />

economic policies will make gold<br />

increasingly attractive as a hedge.<br />

According to the WGC, gold will face<br />

headwinds from higher interest rates<br />

and US dollar strength, but this is<br />

expected to be limited as the Fed<br />

signaled a more neutral stance and<br />

structural economic reforms in key<br />

gold markets to continue. This will<br />

support demand for gold in jewellery,<br />

technology and as means of savings.<br />

The report stated global investors would<br />

continue to favour gold as an effective<br />

diversifier and hedge against systemic<br />

risk. However, this comes with higher<br />

levels of risk and uncertainty on multiple<br />

global metrics – such as expensive<br />

valuations and higher market volatility<br />

– political and economic instability in<br />

Europe, potential higher inflation from<br />

protectionist policies, and increased<br />

likelihood of a global recession.<br />

Tiffany creates consumer provenance<br />

Tiffany & Co has seen its stock<br />

value increase after declaring it will reveal<br />

the geographical location of all newly<br />

sourced diamonds, in what has been<br />

heralded an industry first.<br />

The move comes as ethically minded<br />

consumers – particularly millennials –<br />

demand to know where and how gems are<br />

mined, hoping to avoid illegally sourced or<br />

conflict diamonds.<br />

Dubbed the Diamond Source Initiative,<br />

Tiffany & Co will share the provenance<br />

information to consumers by individually<br />

registering diamonds weighing 0.18 carats<br />

and larger. Each will be marked with a unique<br />

“T&Co” laser-etched serial number, which is<br />

invisible to the naked eye.<br />

The company is committed to “total<br />

transparency” on the geographical location<br />

of each of its diamonds available for retail<br />

around the world.<br />

“Tiffany & Co. has long been committed<br />

to diamond traceability and going above<br />

and beyond industry norms to promote<br />

the protection of the environment<br />

and human rights,” chief sustainability<br />

officer Ms Anisa Kamadoli Costa said.<br />

“A transparent journey of responsible<br />

sourcing reflects the many positive and<br />

far-reaching benefits along every step of the<br />

diamond supply chain.”<br />

At the time of the announcement, the<br />

company’s initiative could have resulted<br />

in positive gains as share prices for Tiffany<br />

& Co (NYSE TIF) with the New York Stock<br />

Exchange traded up $0.86 (AUD 1.19) a week<br />

after the announcement.<br />

Tiffany stock had a trading volume of<br />

2,417,079 shares, compared to its average<br />

volume of 2,229,174, according to online<br />

stock trading monitor Fairfield Current.<br />

India’s jewellery artisans get ID cards<br />

Indian jewellery workers have been issued<br />

identification cards (ID) and health insurance<br />

coverage under enhanced industry laws<br />

introduced to professionalise the sector.<br />

The country’s Gems and <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Export<br />

Promotion Council’s (GJEPC) began the<br />

nationwide rollout in West Bengal, providing<br />

its traditional jewellery artisans with<br />

additional health benefits from the Ministry<br />

of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship<br />

(MoSDE), and valid authentication for social<br />

security purposes.<br />

The GJEPC is also in talks with the<br />

MoSDE over the national classification of<br />

artisans under the Labour Management<br />

Information Systems.<br />

The main objective of the project is to<br />

establish a verified database for gem and<br />

jewellery workers, while promoting better<br />

job opportunities help in securing financial<br />

support and improved healthcare services.<br />

TIFFANY IMPROVES DIAMOND TRANSPARENCY<br />

“The USD$40 billion (AU$55 billion) gem and<br />

jewellery industry were heavily dependent<br />

on the artisans and craftsmen of India,” GJEPC<br />

chairman Mr Pramod Kumar Agrawal said.<br />

The GJEPC has also launched a welfare<br />

scheme called the Swasthya Ratna, which will<br />

provide social security and health insurance<br />

coverage for jewellery craftsmen. They and<br />

any member of their immediate family can<br />

benefit from health insurance coverage by<br />

paying a 25 per cent premium.<br />

The remaining 75 per cent will be shouldered<br />

by a special fund from the GJEPC called the<br />

Swasthya Kosh.<br />

16 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


RETAILING<br />

Smarter<br />

retailing in<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

A NEW YEAR CALLS FOR NEW<br />

IDEAS. RICHARD CHIU HAS<br />

COMPILED SOME HELPFUL<br />

MARKETING TECHNIQUES –<br />

OLD AND NEW – TO HELP STEER<br />

BUSINESSES THROUGH <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

he old adage, ‘when the going gets tough the tough get going’ is a<br />

truism. <strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailing is highly competitive, and today – thanks<br />

to the internet – the fight for the consumer dollar has increased.<br />

Large and small retailers across all consumer categories face difficult<br />

trading periods and it’s easy to feel market forces are working against you.<br />

However, there is a vast trove of marketing ideas and expertise you can call upon to<br />

navigate the headwinds of <strong>2019</strong>.<br />

The right advice, simple tips and innovative ideas can help weather the storm.<br />

We’ve gathered some of the best and most current retail marketing advice to help<br />

you get back on track and boost sales.<br />

CREATIVE AND INNOVATIVE MARKETING<br />

Innovative customer engagement strategies are vital to getting people in the door<br />

and have gained increasing prominence in recent years. Savvy retailers trigger<br />

customer emotions and actions. There are multiple ways to accomplish this, with<br />

many businesses reporting success through the use of enticing displays stating ‘try<br />

me on’, ‘check this out’ or ‘pick me up’.<br />

In marketing terms, this simple technique is labeled a ‘call-to-action’ (CTA) and it’s<br />

becoming more important every day.<br />

Your call CTA is the chance to motivate consumer to take real steps toward<br />

18 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


ecoming a customer or client. It can be the determining factor between a lead<br />

and a conversion.<br />

Not only are CTAs important for business, customers want and expect them. CTAs<br />

and sales funnels go hand in hand. The calls to action serve as transitions between<br />

the phases of the buyer’s journey. They instruct the user on what to do next,<br />

prompting them to take immediate action.<br />

A US e-commerce giant is one such example. It cleverly used eye-catching signs<br />

depicting how one should wear its apparel, as well as matching outfits from<br />

brands displayed in its brick-and-mortar outlets. Supplementing these were ‘callto-action’<br />

slogans, stirring customer interest.<br />

Unique marketing techniques such as these help win consumer attention as well<br />

as facilitating an enhanced perception of brands and products. Once customers<br />

have their foot in the store, many retailers have also turned to other experiential<br />

methods to enhance the overall shopping experience.<br />

Based on a study by US and British marketing experts, a physical instore shopping<br />

experience with friends or family remains the preferred method for all modern day<br />

consumers – from Gen Z to Baby Boomers. The authors report that people often<br />

craved or missed the excitement of physical endeavours when compared with<br />

digital immersions or two-dimensional virtual market representations.<br />

A number of global retail chains have capitalised on this by experimenting<br />

with comfortable multi-sensory experiences for shoppers. Climate control,<br />

scents, ambient music and visual garden settings are among the methods. At<br />

the extreme end, some companies have implemented augmented reality instore<br />

scenarios and experiences.<br />

Question: What’s your unique story and how well do personalise your<br />

marketing messages?<br />

STORE-WITHIN-A-STORE<br />

While not a new concept, collaboration with participating brands can be a key<br />

driver in boosting sales for some retailers and has become increasingly popular<br />

in recent years, which has increased foot traffic into stores and boosted sales.<br />

A leading US retailer has been known to launch instore themed shopping<br />

events with a brand or a collective collaboration of like products. These events<br />

are conducted with products curated from participating suppliers.<br />

This concept has a two-pronged advantage – it helps provide customers with<br />

a convenient shopping experience and brands being able to showcase their<br />

products.<br />

However, curated products must take on a ‘less is more’ approach, so as not to<br />

overwhelm customers with too many products or brand options.<br />

RETAILERS ARE INCREASINGLY<br />

TURNING TO EXTERNAL<br />

SPECIALISTS TO DEVELOP<br />

CONTENT THAT TELLS A<br />

MEANINGFUL ‘STORY’ BEHIND<br />

THEIR STORES AND BRANDS<br />

Question: Does your store, website and marketing feature CTAs?<br />

THE PERSONAL TREATMENT<br />

Establishing a personal connection remains the key strategy for attracting<br />

customers to your store and away from competitors. Aside from improving<br />

logistics, product fulfillment and pricing, retailers have found customer<br />

personalisation equally important in converting new customers into loyal<br />

patrons.<br />

In <strong>2019</strong> and beyond, smart retailers are upping the ante in this area by<br />

widening their customer contact channels. Through personalised emails,<br />

messages and greetings during festive periods, retailers are promoting a sense<br />

of importance and value with clients, which go beyond the initial sale of<br />

goods or services.<br />

The same principles apply to loyalty and rewards programs, one of the more<br />

traditional marketing methods, and which remain just as relevant today. These<br />

systems enable businesses to recognise customers and their preferences<br />

making them feel appreciated, while forming the necessary foundations for<br />

repeat business.<br />

Other emotional connections are also just as important. This is perhaps most<br />

relevant to jewellery retail where products are often purchased to mark special<br />

occasions. This concept adds value to the purchase, providing more than just a<br />

practical solution to a problem. It gives consumers a reason to buy whether it<br />

is celebrating successes, milestones or love.<br />

In addition, to elicit these emotional responses, retailers are increasingly<br />

turning to external specialists to develop content that tells a meaningful ‘story’<br />

behind their stores and brands.<br />

Suppliers will jump at the chance to help with well-planned instore events,<br />

while social media and the internet have played major roles in helping<br />

customers narrow down their brand or product options, helping them make<br />

their initial shopping decisions before setting foot in a store.<br />

Question: Are you trying innovative marketing strategies, or just going through<br />

the same old motions?<br />

CUSTOMER REVIEWS<br />

It’s a fact that customer reviews are playing a more important role in shopping<br />

decisions. They will become even more essential in <strong>2019</strong>, as consumers like to<br />

read what other customers say about a business.<br />

Leveraging product and customer reviews has been hugely beneficial for<br />

businesses and can offer clear insight into how the company and products are<br />

performing. Most, if not all, consumers rely on these avenues to determine the<br />

trustworthiness and reliability of a business.<br />

Word-of-mouth remains a persuasive advertising channel, according to a<br />

global marketing research group, which indicated most customers wouldn’t<br />

hesitate to share a product or service experience. A separate study supported<br />

these findings by publishing a survey that demonstrated most shoppers who<br />

had an ‘excellent’ customer experience were highly likely to recommend the<br />

brand.<br />

Question: Do you review and monitor customer reviews?<br />

SIMPLIFY THE PURCHASE PROCESS<br />

We are all getting busier.; there never seems to be enough time in the day.<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 19


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Time-poor consumers expect their instore<br />

buying experience to be convenient and<br />

easy – and research suggests the same is<br />

also true for online purchases.<br />

Studies have shown each additional step<br />

during checkout results in a 10 per cent<br />

decrease in transactions. Put simply, for<br />

every 100 customers, a business is expected<br />

to lose 10 every time a step is added to the<br />

purchase process.<br />

In addition, e-commerce retail statistics<br />

revealed 70 per cent of people<br />

abandoned an online purchase if it<br />

became complicated. According to the<br />

survey, the three top reasons include:<br />

unexpected costs (shipping or hidden fees),<br />

requirements to set up a customer account<br />

and a lengthy checkout process.<br />

Question: While online sales are not<br />

significant for a traditional jeweller, does<br />

your website quickly assist potential<br />

customers to buy?<br />

LEVERAGE SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING<br />

This is one of the latest e-commerce<br />

trends being led by social media giants<br />

Facebook and Pinterest. For instance,<br />

Facebook’s Marketplace segment allows<br />

businesses to market products and services<br />

which, in turn, can be purchased on the<br />

same platform.<br />

A US consumer report highlighted that<br />

more than half of consumers agreed that<br />

online customer service via social media<br />

made it easier to ask questions and resolve<br />

complaints, including queries on shipping<br />

and delivery methods.<br />

This relatively inexpensive e-commerce<br />

platform also helps retailers maximise<br />

product exposure. Facebook’s user base<br />

is quickly moving towards 2 billion, while<br />

Pintrest boasts 250 million unique<br />

monthly visitors.<br />

These platforms have shot to prominence<br />

thanks, in large part, to the advent of<br />

smartphones, now considered a key tool<br />

in the purchase process and customer<br />

engagement.<br />

Within the next two years, mobile<br />

e-commerce is estimated to reach<br />

more than half of global online sales<br />

due to exceedingly longer times<br />

users spend on devices. According to<br />

Deloitte’s 2018 Technology, Media and<br />

Telecommunications Predictions report,<br />

Australia will exceed global trends.<br />

The report predicted that smartphone<br />

penetration would surpass 90 per cent by<br />

the end of last year while the rest of the<br />

world will take until 2023.<br />

Question: Is your retail business<br />

mobile friendly?<br />

YOUR BIGGEST ASSET<br />

Everything changes. Products and<br />

services change, businesses change as do<br />

consumers. Shoppers buy in many different<br />

ways these days, however are your staff<br />

trained in the latest trends?<br />

Your staff can be the secret to business<br />

success. Human resources make up the<br />

qualitative aspect of any business


RETAILING<br />

and play a major role in ensuring that<br />

customers return.<br />

Training is an important aspect of<br />

employee engagement; being competent<br />

in their role boosts their confidence.<br />

Empower staff with the skills and<br />

knowledge to provide intrinsic value to<br />

brands and products when<br />

serving customers.<br />

Employee engagement does not have<br />

to be costly and elaborate. It’s better to<br />

allocate funds for a sustainable staff training<br />

and engagement program that could run<br />

a long race rather than creating a program<br />

that quickly wanes.<br />

Helping employees have fun at work<br />

and discovering their passions can help<br />

boost productivity and earnings for<br />

retailers. Happy workers are often found in<br />

companies investing in employee support<br />

and satisfaction.<br />

For long-term success, it’s essential retailers<br />

employ the best people and to fulfil their<br />

potential, staff need to be respected,<br />

recognised, rewarded and, most of all,<br />

satisfied with their work. This, in turn, filters<br />

into customer interactions.<br />

In <strong>2019</strong> retail marketing will place greater<br />

importance on customer relationships.<br />

Too often staff training revolves around<br />

process and delivery, however smart<br />

retailers train staff with soft (interpersonal)<br />

skills, which assists in creating lasting<br />

customer relationships. Upskilling sales<br />

staff to communicate effectively by telling<br />

stories about products or experiences<br />

helps them reach a client’s inner psyche<br />

and becomes an advantage in winning<br />

them over.<br />

Question: When was the last time you<br />

updated staff training?<br />

QUALITY OVER QUANTITY<br />

When marketing to customers, it’s<br />

important to give interesting and<br />

palatable content utmost attention. Avoid<br />

bombardment of generic material.<br />

People will always look for a reliable<br />

and consistent information source that<br />

constantly attracts their attention, satisfies<br />

their curiosity, and offers innovative<br />

solutions to everyday problems.<br />

Retailers need to make every effort<br />

to better understand their customers,<br />

including their online habits, challenges<br />

and market behaviour.<br />

Customers need to be continually provided<br />

with interesting and valuable information,<br />

whereas advertising ideas must be flexible<br />

for use on different media platforms. The<br />

difference between platforms may not be<br />

significant, but each one has its unique<br />

characteristics and one method may<br />

not necessarily blend well with another.<br />

Analysing consumer behaviour and habits<br />

on those platforms lets marketers know<br />

how to approach it.<br />

Interestingly, a leading media research<br />

group found almost half of internet users<br />

considered digital ads a nuisance. Many go<br />

as far to install ad blocker software. A major<br />

complaint among internet users is that they<br />

see no relevance in the advertisement. Not<br />

only is wasted advertising a cost to retailers,<br />

it also causes inconvenience to consumers.<br />

It is better to develop quality content that<br />

is consistent, compelling and interesting to<br />

target consumers.<br />

In addition, data analytics is expected<br />

to increasingly influence merchandising<br />

decisions among retailers. An international<br />

footwear brand uses this method efficiently<br />

by basing future designs on consumer<br />

buying trends, sales, and product<br />

preferences, making their product planning<br />

and designs decisions more responsive to<br />

proven buying trends and needs.<br />

By adopting smart marketing and retail<br />

strategies, including embracing technology,<br />

retailers will find themselves better placed<br />

to handle the <strong>2019</strong> retail market. An<br />

evolving customer base has drastically<br />

changed market conditions during the past<br />

decade, and storeowners constantly need<br />

to adapt and remain relevant.<br />

Marketing is a facet of business that<br />

requires careful consideration and a multipronged<br />

approach to maxmise foot traffic<br />

and boost profits. As they say, when the<br />

going gets tough, the tough get going. i


ENGAGEMENT<br />

Engaging business:<br />

still a major part of retailing<br />

FOR MOST SUCCESSFUL<br />

JEWELLERS THE ENGAGEMENT<br />

RING REMAINS THE BACKBONE<br />

OF THEIR BUSINESS. COLEBY<br />

NICHOLSON EXPLORES SOME<br />

RECENT AUSTRALIAN DATA ON<br />

ENGAGEMENTS AND WEDDINGS.<br />

here is one thing that never changes in the jewellery<br />

industry: the quest for the perfect engagement ring.<br />

Today, the unique weight of expectation and a plethora of<br />

styles and designs load the traditional symbol of love.<br />

Engagement is, and always has been, a major part of<br />

a jeweller’s business. The engagement ring is often the most<br />

expensive piece of jewellery that a woman will acquire in her lifetime<br />

and men are forking out record amounts before getting down on<br />

bended knee.<br />

But is getting hitched as fashionable as it once was?<br />

An analysis of the latest Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS) marriage<br />

data released late last year shows that the number of marriages in<br />

2017 (112,954) has not significantly changed since 1997 (106,735).<br />

In fact, the number of marriages decreased in 2017 by 5,447 (4.6%)<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 23


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and the crude marriage rate decreased<br />

from 4.9 in 2016 to 4.6 marriages per 1,000<br />

people in 2017.<br />

The crude marriage rate refers to the<br />

number of marriages occurring among<br />

the population of a certain geographical<br />

area during a calendar year per 1,000<br />

of the estimated resident population. This<br />

is surprising given Australia’s population<br />

continues to increase. The peak<br />

year for marriages was 2014 with<br />

121,197 weddings.<br />

However, what these ABS marriage figures<br />

do not take into account is registered<br />

relationships. All state and territory<br />

Registries of Births, Deaths and Marriages,<br />

except WA and NT, provide couples an<br />

alternative to marriage where a relationship<br />

register is offered and maintained.<br />

A registered relationship is not only a<br />

legal proof of a relationship but it can<br />

also make it easier to prove the existence<br />

of a relationship when one’s required for<br />

tax, superannuation and government<br />

payments, as well as demonstrating nextof-kin<br />

status to funeral directors and in the<br />

case of medical emergencies.<br />

These registered relationships are not<br />

included in marriage statistics, however;<br />

while the number of registered marriages<br />

has slowly declined over time, the number<br />

of registered relationships is increasing<br />

on an annual basis. There were 14,626<br />

relationships registered in 2017, which is<br />

more than double the number registered<br />

only five years ago in 2013 (7,281).<br />

DIVORCE<br />

More than 49,000 divorces were granted in<br />

2017, an increase of 2,428 (5.0%) from the<br />

46,604 in 2016. The crude divorce rate was<br />

2.0 divorces granted per 1,000 estimated<br />

resident population, increasing slightly<br />

from 2016 (1.9).<br />

The median age at divorce for both males<br />

and females was unchanged in 2017. For<br />

males the median age at divorce was 45.5<br />

years of age and the median age of females<br />

was 42.9 years of age. The median duration<br />

from marriage to divorce in 2017 also<br />

remained stable at 12.0 years.<br />

It’s often said that in Australia one in<br />

two marriages end in divorce. However,<br />

that’s likely to be a US figure and, more<br />

interestingly, it’s not as easy to accurately<br />

estimate the divorce rate.<br />

For example, while there were 112,954<br />

marriages in 2017 the number of divorces<br />

for the same period (49,032) does not relate<br />

to the same year, so the data is imprecise<br />

because it’s not as simple as 112,954<br />

divided by 49,032, which would make it<br />

43 per cent.<br />

While the Census figures don’t indicate if<br />

the married people had previously been<br />

divorced, in 2017 more than eight out of 10<br />

brides, and almost as many grooms, were<br />

marrying for the first time.


ENGAGEMENT<br />

The pool of married people is increasing every year, since the<br />

divorce rate, which is continuing to fall, is much lower than the<br />

marriage rate. The Australian Bureau of Statistics’ annual marriage<br />

and divorce figures also showed people were choosing to get<br />

married later in life, with the national average age for a woman to<br />

wed reaching above 30 years old for the first time.<br />

SAME-SEX MARRIAGE<br />

Following the historic marriage equality vote on 9 November 2017,<br />

the ABS announced that, of the eligible Australians who voted, 61.6<br />

per cent responded ‘Yes’ and 38.4 per cent responded ‘No’. Nearly<br />

80 per cent of eligible Australian voters participated, with all states<br />

and territories recording a majority ‘Yes’ response.<br />

On 9 December 2017, same-sex marriage was officially legalised<br />

and the right to marry under Australian law was no longer<br />

determined by sex or gender.<br />

There were 3,149 same-sex marriages in the first 6 months since<br />

the changes to the Marriage Act 1961. It includes counts of samesex<br />

marriages at the national and state and territory level, as well as<br />

demographic characteristics of those who married.<br />

ENGAGEMENT<br />

According to a survey of 3,300 couples by website Easy Weddings,<br />

9 per cent of all engagements happen between Christmas Eve and<br />

New Year’s Day. The average cost of an engagement ring is $5,134.<br />

About one in two engagement rings are chosen without<br />

consulting the other partner, while one in four couples decide on<br />

an engagement ring together. Six per cent of engagements are<br />

formed without a ring.<br />

The 2018 study also found that the average age of the bride is 28<br />

and 93 per cent are aged 35 years or under when they marry. The<br />

average age of the groom is 29 and 87 per cent of grooms are<br />

aged 35 years or under when they marry.<br />

Is there an ‘engagement season’? The term was coined in the US<br />

to mark the period when there is an increase in engagement<br />

proposals, which spans from Thanksgiving in late November<br />

to around <strong>February</strong>. Yes, there are people who get engaged on<br />

Valentine’s Day. How original.<br />

While Thanksgiving is not widely recognised or celebrated in<br />

Australia, the Christmas and New Year holiday period (December to<br />

January) is the time many engagements are announced, probably<br />

because couples in a more positive and relaxed, making it an ideal<br />

time to pop the question.<br />

Coincidentally, the same holiday period is when most divorces<br />

are announced! That could also explain the spike in new<br />

members to dating websites after Christmas and<br />

into the New Year.<br />

When it comes to choosing the wedding<br />

day, 34 per cent of couples said there<br />

was no single reason, but that it was<br />

convenient for a range of reasons. On the<br />

other hand, 21 per cent of couples said<br />

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ENGAGEMENT<br />

they chose their date by season, 16 per cent chose the date according to its<br />

significance to them (i.e. an anniversary), while 11 per cent of couples said they<br />

chose their wedding date according to the availability of their preferred venue.<br />

DIFFERENT TRADITIONS<br />

IT’S STILL TYPICAL FOR<br />

A MAN TO GET DOWN ON<br />

BENDED KNEE WHEN PROPOSING<br />

TO THE WOMAN IN AUSTRALIA<br />

Even though many societal traditions have changed over the years, it’s still<br />

typical for a man to get down on bended knee when proposing to the<br />

woman in Australia. Of course, this is the point at which he presents the<br />

engagement ring.<br />

With Australia’s increasing diversity, it’s worth noting some of the different<br />

engagement and wedding traditions of other nationalities and cultures<br />

around the world.<br />

Scotland - Men looking to marry are traditionally put through their paces during<br />

a “Speerin” or “Beukin,” which requires them to accomplish a series of tasks or<br />

hurdles set by the father of the bride. Also, right foot forward is the correct<br />

procedure a bride should follow when exiting her house on her way to the<br />

wedding. The ‘wedding scramble’ is traditional in most parts of Scotland. As the<br />

bride steps into the car, her father throws a handful of coins for the children to<br />

collect. It’s believed to bring about financial good fortune.<br />

Ireland - The Claddagh-style ring is a traditional Irish ring full of history. The<br />

ring is made of a heart held by two hands, topped with a crown. It’s a heartfelt<br />

symbol for marriage because, traditionally, the hands represent friendship, the<br />

heart represents love and the crown represents loyalty.<br />

The Irish often wear these rings for other occasions, so to symbolise<br />

engagement, you must wear it on your left hand with the tip of the heart<br />

pointing toward your fingertips. On the day of your wedding, the heart is turned<br />

and points toward your wrist.<br />

China - A wedding symbolises the joining of two families in Chinese culture,<br />

not simply the joining of a couple. Today, many Chinese proposals follow the<br />

Western tradition of presenting the woman with a diamond ring.<br />

There are still many traditional elements incorporated into Chinese proposals,<br />

however, such as the woman taking the man to meet her family, and the man<br />

seeking the favour of the woman’s family before proposing.


After a man proposes to a woman, it is common that the two<br />

families officially acknowledge the event and give their blessing.<br />

Greece - The man must ask the father of the bride for permission to<br />

marry. The couple must then attend three counselling sessions with<br />

a priest where they receive marriage advice. Once all the blessings<br />

are done, there’s typically a huge engagement party involving lots of<br />

friends and family.<br />

France - Similar to other Western cultures, French couples typically<br />

get engaged once a man proposes to his partner. However, there’s<br />

no diamond ring presented at the time. After the woman says “yes,”<br />

and the man has asked for his future father-in-law’s blessing, after<br />

which the couple start shopping for an engagement ring together.<br />

The bride to be is then presented with her ring at a small gathering<br />

between both families.<br />

Japan - A couple isn’t really engaged until there’s a yunio (Japanese<br />

for “engagement ceremony”), which involves a meeting between the<br />

families of the bride and groom and the exchange of nine symbolic<br />

gifts wrapped in rice paper. Each gift is meant to symbolise particular<br />

sentiments and well wishes for the couple, such as longevity, wealth<br />

and healthy children.<br />

India - Arranged marriages are still very common in the subcontinent.<br />

In Indian and Pakistani proposal customs, the family of<br />

bridegroom makes a formal proposal to the family of the bride. In<br />

very traditional circles, the couple is not involved in the process at all.<br />

Pakistan - If the bride’s family accepts the proposal from the<br />

bridegroom’s family, a special engagement party usually takes place<br />

where the groom-to-be proposes to the bride-to-be.<br />

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Norway - Women are known to wear engagement rings on their<br />

right hand, not their left. Many women in England, France, India,<br />

Russia and Germany do the same thing!<br />

Fiji - It’s tradition that young men, in asking a young woman’s father<br />

for her hand, must take a special present: a whale’s tooth. It is a<br />

symbol of wealth and status in society.<br />

Assuming that the man receives a positive response, his next step<br />

is to make some food to be sent to the bride-to-be’s family. This is<br />

called ‘warming’ and just prior to the wedding the bride is tattooed,<br />

which is a sign of beauty in Fiji.<br />

Chile - Engagement rings are not just for the women. Both the bride<br />

and groom-to-be wear rings on their right hand and swap the rings<br />

over to the third finger on their left hand on their wedding day.<br />

Armenia - Engagement parties are just as big as the weddings<br />

themselves. A priest is called upon to bless the engagement ring<br />

and ask the couple to vow their love and devotion for one another.<br />

Like the Greeks, Armenians also attend counseling sessions with a<br />

priest before getting married.<br />

Ghana - Traditionally, a groom and a few of his family members<br />

would knock on the bride’s family’s door and announce his<br />

intentions for marriage. This “knocking ceremony” happens only a<br />

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with sample laser engraving, display stand and ring boxes, and promotional counter card and brochures.<br />

For more information or to order, please contact Customer Service at<br />

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14 Duncan Court, Ottoway Park, SA, 5013 Australia<br />

Toll Free 1800 888 528 | Email contactus@pwbeck.com.au | Web www.pwbeck.com.au


GOLD REPORT<br />

Looking towards a<br />

golden future<br />

AS CONSUMERS INCREASINGLY<br />

SEEK HIGHER QUALITY DESIGNS,<br />

ESPECIALLY CUSTOM-MADE, COLEBY<br />

NICHOLSON LOOKS AT WHAT <strong>2019</strong><br />

AND BEYOND MIGHT HOLD.<br />

ith the start of every New Year the fashionistas weigh-in<br />

with their predictions for the latest and greatest jewellery<br />

styles for the coming year. And while trends come and go,<br />

one constant remains; gold never goes out of style.<br />

Indeed, many suggest gold is set for a stellar few years, as there’s<br />

a move back to quality, custom-made pieces. The fashion experts<br />

are suggesting that one of the major trends to watch for <strong>2019</strong> is<br />

layered gold chain. Technically not a new trend, they were revived<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 29


GOLD REPORT<br />

the main engine of growth in 2018, despite witnessing a slowdown in Q4 as<br />

the trade war with the US and slowing economic growth rate weighed on<br />

demand.<br />

“Economic hardship, relatively weak currencies and the after effects of taxchanges<br />

affected Turkey and Middle Eastern markets to varying degrees: Iran<br />

and Turkey were hit particularly hard,” the reported stated.<br />

It also noted that a second year of growth in the US pushed jewellery demand<br />

to its highest since 2009, although the pace slowed in Q4.<br />

The agency, which tracks global trends in gold wholesale prices, predicts<br />

increased market uncertainty and the expansion of protectionist economic<br />

policies will make gold increasingly attractive as a hedge.<br />

CHINA GENERATED THE MOST GROWTH IN 2018<br />

in a big way last year and that is expected to continue this year.<br />

Wherever you looked in 2018, layering gold pieces were extremely popular,<br />

according to the fashion magazines, and an advantage of this trend is the<br />

ability to experiment it with a casual, street-style avatar, or make it part of a<br />

swanky party ensemble.<br />

If you’re wanting to up your necklace game, the fashion gurus suggest mixing<br />

and matching styles and designs to create the perfect layered look.<br />

Another prediction is for bold gold, chains and links that resemble a retro,<br />

1980s statement. Oversized necklaces and bracelets will be the perfect<br />

statement accessories.<br />

It’s about ‘go big or go home’ as tribal, traditional, floral, vintage styles with big<br />

and chunky bracelets, hoops, statement necklaces and rings were very popular<br />

in 2018. The bold gold trend is also encapsulated in large gold cuffs embedded<br />

with coloured stones paired with big gold hoops.<br />

Another trend that’s not new, but is expected to maintain its popularity<br />

through <strong>2019</strong>, is the sporting of two big non-matching gold earrings. The<br />

stylists say non-matching styles have developed a sharper edge, especially<br />

given they were a major feature of the new season runways.<br />

While gold may face headwinds from higher interest rates and US dollar<br />

strength, these effects are expected to be limited, as the US Federal Reserve<br />

has signaled a more neutral stance. Structural economic reforms in key markets<br />

will continue to support demand for gold in jewellery, technology and as<br />

means of savings.<br />

The two largest gold jewellery markets were not surprisingly China and<br />

India, which accounted for nearly 60 per cent of global gold jewellery<br />

demand in 2018.<br />

Another WGC report titled, Gold 2048: The Next 30 Years for Gold published last<br />

year, looked at overarching demographic, technological, economic, political,<br />

and social trends around the world and their implications for the gold market.<br />

It gathered leading gold industry experts as well as authors and economists to<br />

analyse the underlying macro forces that will drive gold sales and demand over<br />

the next 30 years.<br />

It predicted demographics would play an increasingly important role in<br />

shaping the global economy. The rising middle class in emerging markets,<br />

particularly China and India will play a major influence in the gold market with<br />

estimates that, over the next 17 years, 170 million Asians will enter the middle<br />

class every year.<br />

India, the largest consumer market for gold, is set to become the fastestgrowing<br />

economy in the coming decades. If Indian leaders manage to pull<br />

off their ambitious political and economic reforms, the country’s middle class<br />

could soar from 19 to 73 per cent of total population.<br />

Other predictions include neo Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian style gold<br />

jewellery including ‘antique’ designs.<br />

While the forecasts of the fashionistas could be music to the ears of<br />

retailers, what should be better news is the latest World Gold Council (WGC)<br />

report: Outlook <strong>2019</strong>: Economic trends and their impact on gold. It states the<br />

international demand for gold jewellery fell slightly in 2018, over the previous<br />

year and total global gold demand in 2018 was 2,200 tonnes, a 0.04% decline<br />

from 2017.<br />

However, the WGC predicts gold will shine better in <strong>2019</strong> due to global<br />

financial market instability, monetary policy, the US dollar and structural<br />

economic reforms.<br />

“Annual jewellery demand barely changed at 2,200 tonnes, after a 3 per cent<br />

year-on-year drop in Q4 demand (to 636.2t) reversed the Q3 gains. China was<br />

30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


“Not only will the Indian middle class become a driving force within the Indian<br />

economy, but its aggregate purchasing power will result in the creation of one<br />

of the largest markets in the world,” the report states.<br />

China’s middle class, too, is rapidly expanding, however, unlike India, the<br />

Chinese are facing major demographic headwinds. A key challenge for China<br />

is an aging population, which might curb economic growth despite the gains<br />

from the expanding middle class.<br />

According to WGC head of research, John Reade: “In the near term, Indian<br />

gold demand will increase substantially if the government is successful in its<br />

ambition to dramatically increase rural income.”<br />

There is also a lot of potential for recycling some of the about 25,000-tonne<br />

stock of gold already in India and that may reduce the need for the country to<br />

import ever-growing quantities of gold, while the WGC expects the domestic<br />

jewellery trade to become much more organised, with consolidated jewellery<br />

manufacturers selling a range of modern and traditional hallmarked pieces to<br />

increasingly urbanised and sophisticated consumers.<br />

Reade made a number of observations about where the industry will<br />

stand in 2048:<br />

• In China, traditional 24-carat gold jewellery will become much less<br />

common; 18-carat, 22-carat and modern 24-carat jewellery will<br />

predominate.<br />

• Economic development in countries such as Vietnam, Indonesia and<br />

Cambodia is likely to drive gold demand in Southeast Asia.<br />

• Greater efforts will be made by refineries, jewellery fabricators and vault<br />

holders to assure customers against environmental, unjust social practices<br />

and money laundering.<br />

• The US will lose its position as the largest economy to China.<br />

• WGC does not expect a substantial recovery in developed-market jewellery<br />

demand, as historic buyers of large amounts of jewellery are ageing.<br />

It believes younger market consumers prioritise experiences over the<br />

purchases of material goods, including jewellery. i<br />

FIND US ON INSTAGRAM<br />

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bangles and findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers.<br />

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P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />

www.millenniumchain.com.au


RETAIL<br />

ARA<br />

MOVES TO BAN BOXING DAY TRADING; RETAIL LEASES WIN<br />

The Australian Retailers Association<br />

(ARA) opposes NSW Opposition Leader<br />

Michael Daley’s recalcitrant intervention<br />

on Boxing Day trading. As the retail sector<br />

is the largest private industry employer<br />

in Australia and NSW, the ARA disputes<br />

Daley’s recent introspective comments.<br />

The ARA views Daley’s stance as ludicrous<br />

that Boxing Day trading is driven by corporate<br />

greed; Boxing Day is beneficial for both<br />

retailers and employees. He has revealed his<br />

hand with this extraordinary proposal and it’s<br />

abundantly clear that he wants to deny retail<br />

workers the employment and wage-earning<br />

potential that this day provides.<br />

Prior to 2015, retail trade on Boxing Day<br />

had been restricted to tourist precincts only<br />

including Bondi and the Sydney CBD. The<br />

current State Government of NSW legislated<br />

to allow Boxing Day trade across the whole<br />

state after a two-year trial.<br />

With comprehensive feedback from<br />

business owners, employees and shoppers,<br />

an independent review conducted in 2017<br />

revealed that allowing NSW stores to open<br />

on Boxing Day would level the playing<br />

field for retailers and provide extra work<br />

opportunities for workers.<br />

Retail employees, including young people<br />

and students, have been put on notice by<br />

Daley that he would prefer to reduce their<br />

employment opportunities and put them at<br />

a disadvantage to their counterparts in every<br />

other Australian State and Territory.<br />

After South Australia recently joined other<br />

states and territories across Australia who<br />

operate on Boxing Day including Victoria,<br />

Tasmania, the NT and the ACT, the backwards<br />

THE ARA VIEWS<br />

DALEY’S STANCE<br />

AS LUDICROUS<br />

THAT BOXING<br />

DAY TRADING<br />

IS DRIVEN BY<br />

CORPORATE<br />

GREED; BOXING<br />

DAY IS BENEFICIAL<br />

FOR BOTH<br />

RETAILERS AND<br />

EMPLOYEES.<br />

step proposed by Daley is prehistoric<br />

in nature and will severely disadvantage<br />

local small business owners in Australia’s<br />

biggest state.<br />

This proposition is straight out of the<br />

primordial ooze and Daley wants to take<br />

NSW back to the land before time. While this<br />

may come as a surprise to some in politics,<br />

the majority of New South Welshmen<br />

have views, which have evolved well past<br />

this 1980s-era thinking. Consumers want<br />

to shop on Boxing Day, employees want<br />

the opportunity to earn extra wages, and<br />

retailers want to trade.<br />

Any move to prevent local businesses from<br />

serving their customers on the busiest<br />

retailing day of the year will merely drive<br />

consumers online and provide a significant<br />

leg-up to overseas competitors. The ARA<br />

will continue to work with retailers and<br />

their employees and will take up the<br />

fight to ensure that Boxing Day trade<br />

remains in NSW.<br />

MAJOR CHANGE TO RETAIL LEASES<br />

Late last year the ARA helped secure a major<br />

win for retail tenancy in NSW. Along with the<br />

Pharmacy Guild of Australia (PGA), and with<br />

other industry bodies, the ARA is behind the<br />

development of the landmark Retail Industry<br />

Code of Practice – The Reporting of Sales and<br />

Occupancy Costs (the Code).<br />

An outcome of the 2016 review of the<br />

Retail Leases Act 1994 (NSW), the Code<br />

marks a major power shift back to retailers,<br />

as shopping centre landlords will now<br />

have an obligation to provide benchmark<br />

information to their tenants where retailers<br />

provide sales data.<br />

As at 1 January <strong>2019</strong>, the Code will ensure<br />

that retailers will have the ability to<br />

access information on sales reporting and<br />

occupancy costs, improving transparency<br />

and accountability. This landmark<br />

achievement for NSW retailers will provide<br />

vital information to tenants in shopping<br />

centres, allowing them to better-understand<br />

the real value of their leases.<br />

The implementation of this Code will help<br />

to give some power back to retail tenants<br />

and give them some added certainty when<br />

it comes to negotiating with their landlords.<br />

The Code has also been agreed to by<br />

the Shopping Centre Council of Australia<br />

(SCCA) and will be implemented next year.<br />

Shopping centres will have a six-month<br />

transitional period to 1 July <strong>2019</strong> to<br />

sign-up and implement the Code. i<br />

RUSSELL ZIMMERMAN is<br />

is the executive director<br />

of the Australian Retailers<br />

Association (ARA).<br />

Email: info@retail.org.au<br />

The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) is the largest association representing the country’s<br />

$310 billion retail sector, which employs more than 1.2 million people. Providing expert advice<br />

across multiple disciplines including leasing and wage rates, the ARA’s mission is to ensure<br />

retail success by informing, protecting, advocating, educating and saving money for members.<br />

32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


GEMS<br />

COLOUR INVESTIGATION: BERYL (PART 2)<br />

burn off the salmon colours to allow<br />

for more ‘in vogue’ pink tones. Like<br />

aquamarine, the crystals can be quite large,<br />

free of inclusions and pale, so larger faceted<br />

gems are fashioned to give the depth of<br />

colour preferred.<br />

Morganite is dichroic, showing two distinct<br />

colours, a pale pink and a darker bluish pink,<br />

when viewed in different directions. It must<br />

be cut very carefully to obtain the best colour.<br />

Morganite can resemble pink topaz, pale pink<br />

spinel and pale pink sapphire.<br />

The colour of heliodor beryl varies from pale<br />

lemon to rich gold. Its name comes from<br />

the Greek meaning for Sun (helios) and gift<br />

(doron). It is an inexpensive beryl that can be<br />

mistaken for citrine, but it is not frequently<br />

used in jewellery due to higher popularity in<br />

other beryl gemstones.<br />

In our previous issue KATHRYN WYATT<br />

introduced the beryl gemstone family<br />

and paid attention to its most famous<br />

member: the emerald. Here, she<br />

examines other varieties, including<br />

the aquamarine, morganite, heliodor<br />

and goshenite.<br />

Beryl is a beryllium-aluminium silicate, with<br />

its non-gem material mined for its beryllium<br />

content. It’s a very light metal with a high<br />

melting point and elasticity, which is used<br />

in industry alloyed with other metals. Pure<br />

beryl is colourless, but most gem quality<br />

material is transparent and coloured by a<br />

variety of trace element impurities creating a<br />

range of lovely hues.<br />

an emerald cut, so green beryl needs to<br />

be cut as deep stones to show depth of<br />

colour. Luckily, unlike emeralds, green beryl<br />

and other paler colours can come in large<br />

crystals with few inclusions.<br />

The colour of aquamarine beryl (named<br />

from the Latin aqua marina, meaning<br />

sea water) is greenish-blue to blue-green<br />

(dichroic or showing 2 colours), caused by<br />

impurities of iron oxide. Most aquamarines<br />

are heat treated to remove green tinges<br />

because blue hues are considered more<br />

fashionable. It can be confused with blue<br />

topaz. Aquamarine is usually cited as the<br />

birthstone for March. It makes wonderful<br />

cocktail rings due to the large cuts!<br />

PINK BERYL<br />

IS KNOWN AS<br />

MORGANITE,<br />

NAMED AFTER<br />

THE AMERICAN<br />

FINANCIER AND<br />

GEM COLLECTOR<br />

J. P. MORGAN<br />

The colourless goshenite is probably the least<br />

known beryl. It was named after Goshen,<br />

a place in Massachusetts where it was first<br />

discovered. It makes for a lovely stone when<br />

cut, and it has been used to imitate more<br />

precious gemstones such as diamond.<br />

Beryl is found mainly in pegmatites (notable<br />

exceptions are emeralds in mica schist in the<br />

Ural Mountains and limestones in Columbia)<br />

and in a variety of localities around the<br />

world. All beryls have a hardness of around<br />

7.5 on Moh’s scale, sufficiently hard for<br />

everyday wear. They all tend to brittleness, so<br />

must be cut very carefully, both to minimise<br />

the chance of accidental fracturing and to<br />

obtain the best depth of colour. Beryl are all<br />

dichroic and are often heat treated to make<br />

the colour purer. The brilliance and colours<br />

of well-cut beryl make it one of the most<br />

versatile gem families. i<br />

Part 1 analysed the emerald, the popular<br />

beryl gemstone that radiates a verdant<br />

green colour, however, there are also paler<br />

green tones, which are simply named green<br />

beryl. Beryl’s brilliance is best shown with<br />

Pink beryl is known as morganite, named<br />

after the American financier and gem<br />

collector J. P. Morgan. Its colours include<br />

pink, rose, peach and salmon, which are due<br />

to traces of manganese. It is often heated to<br />

KATHRYN WYATT is a qualified gemmologist,<br />

diamond technologist, registered jewellery valuer,<br />

educator and member of the Gemmological<br />

Association of Australia. For information on<br />

gemstones, visit: gem.org.au<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 33


Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

confidence to build a solid<br />

career in a multimilliondollar<br />

industry. Joining<br />

one of the most supportive<br />

and passionate professional<br />

communities of gemmologists<br />

in Australia was one of the<br />

best decision I ever made.<br />

Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT<br />

Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist<br />

Diamond<br />

Courses<br />

Practical Diamond Grading &<br />

Diploma in Diamond Technology<br />

Enrolments now open<br />

For more information<br />

1300 436 338<br />

learn@gem.org.au<br />

www.gem.org.au<br />

Be<br />

Confident<br />

Gem-Ed Australia<br />

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY<br />

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones


BUSINESS<br />

SIGNIFICANT RETAIL TRENDS IN <strong>2019</strong><br />

Large retailers are often at the cutting<br />

edge of consumer change. RICHARD<br />

SHAPIRO looks at some of the significant<br />

shifts gaining foothold in the US.<br />

If we don’t look ahead, we risk being<br />

left behind. Perhaps nowhere is that<br />

risk greater than with the emergence of<br />

Artificial Intelligence (AI) as a practical retail<br />

technology. AI has left the lab and brands<br />

and retailers have seized upon it to predict<br />

individual consumer behaviour and better<br />

target their messaging.<br />

Those who begin coupling AI with the<br />

human touch in the years to come will have<br />

a huge advantage long-term. The technology<br />

gold rush will go on unabated but savvy<br />

retailers will never lose focus on people.<br />

SPECIALTY TO THRIVE<br />

Perpetual discounting and their inability<br />

to motivate staff and excite consumers<br />

have damaged department stores.<br />

Once-dominant chains are shrinking and<br />

shuttering at a frightening pace, including<br />

Sears and Toys R Us.<br />

At the same time, specialty stores that offer<br />

unique merchandise, irresistible service<br />

and highly-trained and well-compensated<br />

sales staff are booming. No retailer better<br />

exemplifies the trend or its staying power<br />

than Mitchells, a luxury-brands specialty<br />

store that’s set the bar with exceptional<br />

customer service, exquisite product and<br />

multi-generational relationships with<br />

designers and consumers.<br />

Jack Mitchell, CEO of the company, went<br />

on to write Hug Your Customers and, later,<br />

Hug Your People, titles that communicate<br />

his retail recipe for success in a world of<br />

unlimited choice.<br />

SPEND AS CHANNELS BLEND<br />

Today’s customer is channel agnostic,<br />

switching effortlessly between online and<br />

traditional shopping, and employing a blend<br />

of browsing techniques: visiting physical<br />

stores for tactile and social experiences;<br />

conducting product/pricing research via<br />

smartphone; taking advantage of-convenient<br />

online ordering and delivery options.<br />

“We don’t hear customers talk about<br />

TODAY’S<br />

CUSTOMER<br />

IS CHANNEL<br />

AGNOSTIC,<br />

SWITCHING<br />

EFFORTLESSLY<br />

BETWEEN ONLINE<br />

AND TRADITIONAL<br />

SHOPPING, AND<br />

EMPLOYING<br />

A BLEND OF<br />

BROWSING<br />

TECHNIQUES.<br />

channels very much,” James Nordstrom,<br />

president of Nordstrom Stores, told<br />

Diginomica.com. “Customers value<br />

experiences, and so the more successful we<br />

are in creating a great shopping experience,<br />

no matter how they’re choosing to shop, I<br />

think the better our business will be.”<br />

RETAILERS TO GO SUSTAINABLE<br />

Serving the goal of sustainability, a circular<br />

economy is a regenerative human-managed<br />

system in which waste is minimised by<br />

slowing or closing energy and material loops.<br />

The economic model embraces durability,<br />

reuse, repurposing, refurbishing, recycling,<br />

and upcycling. It is embraced by a growing<br />

cohort of environmentally-friendly merchants<br />

and manufacturers.<br />

Companies such as Unilever, Patagonia,<br />

IKEA, Lush Cosmetics, and New Belgium<br />

Brewing now boast legions of loyal, educated<br />

and affluent customers who reward<br />

environmental leadership at the cash register<br />

and like to tell their friends about it.<br />

Take Patagonia, the cultish outdoor clothing<br />

chain that has championed Earth-friendly<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 35


BUSINESS<br />

practices and policies for over 30 years.<br />

The retailer’s Worn Wear program provides<br />

merchandise credits for Patagonia clothing<br />

that is returned in good condition. The items<br />

are resold, turned into other products or<br />

recycled. According to CEO Rose Marcario,<br />

Patagonia “wants everyone to become<br />

radical environmentalists by keeping our<br />

stuff in use longer”.<br />

Retailers with their eyes open don’t need a<br />

degree in climate science to know which way<br />

the wind is blowing.<br />

THE RISE OF MEMBERS-ONLY<br />

Amazon is far from the only retailer that’s<br />

innovating in e-commerce. Walmart<br />

describes its Jetblack service launched<br />

earlier this year as, “a new shopping<br />

service that combines the convenience of<br />

e-commerce with the customised attention<br />

of a personal assistant”.<br />

Pricier than Amazon Prime – Jetblack is<br />

$US50/month while Prime is just $12.99/<br />

month – the service is targeting upscale, busy<br />

clientele, including “time-strapped urban<br />

parents”. A member can text her shopping<br />

request and Jetblack goes to work, delivering<br />

the appropriate merchandise within two<br />

business days at no additional charge.<br />

The launch stresses an entrepreneurial, teamoriented<br />

answer to the question, “What if we<br />

doubled down on the customer experience<br />

and leveraged emerging technologies<br />

to build the most effortless and curated<br />

shopping experience possible?”<br />

The underlying system reportedly combines<br />

the skill and knowledge of expert human<br />

buyers with the speed and precision of AI. If it<br />

flies, and it should, consumers will be hearing<br />

a lot more about this and other hyperpersonalised<br />

services soon.<br />

SELF-SERVE CHECKOUTS TO GROW<br />

As Amazon expands its Amazon Go chain of<br />

self-serve convenience stores, dozens of startups<br />

are competing with established firms<br />

to master and lead this potentially gamechanging<br />

retail model. Innovative Chinese<br />

entrant BingoBox has taken the cashier-less<br />

concept to another level, automating virtually<br />

every aspect of store operation in more than<br />

300 unmanned outlets.<br />

BingoBox stocks snacks, beer and just about<br />

any essential food or household item you<br />

might need in a pinch when other stores<br />

are closed. Shoppers scan a QR code to<br />

gain entry and pay for their purchases via<br />

mobile app.<br />

Other checkout-free startups include Zippin,<br />

with a recently-opened concept store in<br />

San Francisco, Inokyo in Mountain View<br />

and Santa Clara’s AiFi, which promises an<br />

affordable, flexible system for ma-and-pa<br />

stores and larger retail operations alike.<br />

This is an important trend but the milliondollar<br />

question is whether automation that<br />

eliminates human staff will remain consigned<br />

to convenience stores only.<br />

METRICS TO SHIFT<br />

While the same-store sales metric has long<br />

served as a baseline indicator of retail success,<br />

industry analysts are questioning whether the<br />

metric is appropriate for modern retailing.<br />

Stores don’t always serve the same function<br />

that they did in the past, which was to<br />

complete the sale. Today, stores must also<br />

play a role in boosting brand awareness,<br />

which means they might become a<br />

showroom that doesn’t even sells products.<br />

When sales are frequently completed<br />

through more than one channel, basing<br />

performance on sales numbers is misguided.<br />

This is a reality that investors are learning to<br />

accept as retailers convert their stores into<br />

something new.<br />

AI AND PERSONALISED SERVICE<br />

Retailers are using AI to personalise customer<br />

service and the trend is picking up steam.<br />

Fifty-five percent of retailers plan to leverage<br />

the technology within three years, according<br />

to the 2018 Customer Experience/Unified<br />

Commerce Survey from Boston Retail<br />

Partners (BRP). Among the many applications:<br />

recommending merchandise and the ability<br />

to contact a given client at their preferred<br />

time of day.<br />

Starbucks rolled out voice-recognition<br />

ordering in South Korea, extending its mobile<br />

order-and-pay technology by integrating with<br />

Samsung’s AI chatbot Bixby.<br />

Customers can use their phone in a<br />

conversational way to learn more about<br />

available beverages. Meantime, The North<br />

Face has adopted IBM Watson’s cognitive<br />

IF WE DON’T<br />

LOOK AHEAD, WE<br />

RISK BEING LEFT<br />

BEHIND. PERHAPS<br />

NOWHERE<br />

IS THAT RISK<br />

GREATER THAN<br />

WITH THE<br />

EMERGENCE<br />

OF ARTIFICIAL<br />

INTELLIGENCE<br />

(AI) AS A<br />

PRACTICAL<br />

RETAIL<br />

TECHNOLOGY.<br />

computing technology to help consumers<br />

find just the right jacket but here’s the thing:<br />

while AI will permit businesses of all kinds<br />

to increase client satisfaction, Starbucks and<br />

The North Face know full well that personal<br />

connections will always trump technology.<br />

SUBSCRIPTION-SERVICES FOR RENT<br />

Ann Taylor and Express are notable among the<br />

fashion retailers that offer rental subscription<br />

services. With Ann Taylor’s Infinite Style<br />

program, subscribers receive up to nine<br />

garments every four weeks for $US95/month.<br />

“Wear it. Send it back. Get more. Exchange<br />

as many times as you like with free shipping,<br />

both ways,” the program promises.<br />

Meantime, Express Style Trial works on a set<br />

of three at a flat monthly cost of $US69.95:<br />

“This service allows our closet to become your<br />

closet. Start closeting items by browsing our<br />

site and viewing everything Express Style Trial<br />

has to offer. Check out New Arrivals for new<br />

styles each week.”<br />

In recent years, retailers have overlooked<br />

employees as their most important<br />

competitive differentiator, instead focusing<br />

on technology solutions that promise to<br />

reduce overhead and automate every<br />

conceivable aspect of the business. AI is a<br />

remarkable tool with capabilities that the<br />

industry has only just begun to discover but<br />

it also runs the risk of devaluing the people<br />

in retail. As enthusiasm for AI, unmanned<br />

stores and ingenious, self-service options<br />

swells in the next year, remember that<br />

customers will be most grateful to have a<br />

human being in the room when – and not<br />

if – the machines drop the ball.<br />

Consider the philosophy of clothing brand<br />

MM LaFleur, as articulated by director of<br />

offline retail Rachel Mann when she said, “For<br />

us, it’s all about the human experience – a<br />

refuge from Alexa and all of the choice. And<br />

robots? It should be like you’re meeting your<br />

friend and she’s giving you good advice.”<br />

Now that’s a trend on which retailers can<br />

bank. i<br />

RICHARD SHAPIRO is<br />

founder of The Center For<br />

Client Retention, offering<br />

research, training and<br />

consulting services. tcfcr.com<br />

36 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


SELLING<br />

YOUR DIAMOND BUSINESS: THREE FOCAL POINTS<br />

HOW DOES YOUR PERCENTAGE OF DIAMOND SALES COMPARE TO WHAT IT ONCE WAS? JEWELLERS SHOULD<br />

FOCUS ON THEIR PRIMARY POINTS OF DIFFERENCE, ACCORDING TO DAVID BROWN.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s must focus on their ability to sell<br />

diamond product, a sector that receives less<br />

competition from non-jewellery retailers<br />

than other product lines such as silver and<br />

watches. Furthermore, diamond product<br />

offers a higher average sale and good profit<br />

margins when executed correctly.<br />

How do your diamond sales compare to other<br />

stores not only within your area but across the<br />

industry as a whole?<br />

Given the amount of comparison data now<br />

available, all jewellers should know how they<br />

shape up against the rest of the trade.<br />

ALLOW DIAMONDS TO SPARKLE<br />

if you want to get the results. Are the gems<br />

displayed as though they are special or<br />

do they look like part of the rank and<br />

file? Are your tickets tidy and clear<br />

to read? Are they fresh or tatty?<br />

What happens when your consumers step<br />

in-store? Does the store itself reflect the<br />

inventory in the window?<br />

I know storeowners who display everything<br />

out front but then have nothing to appeal<br />

to customers who enter – the window may<br />

say one thing but the store says something<br />

else entirely.<br />

It can be hard to compare a $1 million<br />

store with a $4 million store but these three<br />

criteria will allow comparison across stores<br />

of different sizes.<br />

diamond department and determine where<br />

you are ahead and where you are behind.<br />

CURRENT STYLES<br />

You need your internal inventory to match<br />

the external. It is also imperative that tickets<br />

are well displayed and prices are easy to read.<br />

1. MARGIN<br />

Diamond sales can take many forms. The<br />

biggest concentration is usually in the area of<br />

rings; however, stores can fail to give adequate<br />

attention to other lucrative areas, including<br />

pendants, bracelets and earrings.<br />

Even within the ring market, storeowners<br />

can focus too much on the bridal market,<br />

neglecting opportunities that exist in<br />

anniversary, gift and right-hand rings. Loose<br />

stones also offer a chance to add good sales<br />

and healthy margin to the bottom line.<br />

2. SALES PER UNIT<br />

You may make fewer unit sales than a larger<br />

store but that doesn’t mean your average<br />

sale, your percentage of sales attributable to<br />

diamonds or your achieved mark-up have to<br />

be any different.<br />

Once you have drawn a comparison, consider<br />

how can you lift your percentages in those<br />

product areas that perform worse than<br />

other stores.<br />

Let’s start with diamond rings – how does<br />

your percentage of sales compare to others?<br />

How does your average sale and margin<br />

compare? Do the same exercise across each<br />

THE AVERAGE<br />

STORE<br />

BENCHMARK<br />

FOR DIAMOND<br />

JEWELLERY AS<br />

A PERCENTAGE<br />

OF TOTAL<br />

STOREWIDE SALES<br />

HAS BEEN IN THE<br />

HIGH 30 PER CENT<br />

TO LOW 50 PER<br />

CENT RANGE.<br />

3. PERCENTAGE<br />

The average store benchmark for diamond<br />

jewellery as a percentage of total storewide<br />

sales has been in the high 30 per cent to low<br />

50 per cent range. This means that the typical<br />

jeweller will be getting half of their total sales<br />

from diamond product.<br />

This number took a dip during the most<br />

popular period in the bead market but has<br />

now bounced back substantially.<br />

In fact, as competition in other areas has<br />

increased, our comparison of monthly store<br />

data shows that diamond sales are now at<br />

their highest historic level for many jewellers<br />

in terms of contribution to sales and profit.<br />

DIAMONDS IN THE SPOTLIGHT<br />

Step outside your store and look at your<br />

windows. Does your store say ‘diamonds’?<br />

This is your most prominent marketing<br />

channel; you can invest all you want in<br />

promoting diamonds but if your store<br />

windows don’t say diamonds, you won’t<br />

be in alignment.<br />

Do you have effective lighting? This is one<br />

of the main areas where storeowners can let<br />

themselves down. Diamonds must sparkle<br />

Are your styles current and popular or are<br />

you filling your displays with items that have<br />

sat around for two or three years and aren’t<br />

earning their keep? Are you guilty of carrying<br />

too much product?<br />

Research has shown that a customer will<br />

make no selection at all when given too<br />

many choices.<br />

Good restaurant owners know this by<br />

ensuring their menus only offer sufficient<br />

choice to meet the customer’s needs. This is<br />

a great lesson for any storeowner to consider.<br />

Diamonds must be a key focus of any<br />

jeweller’s overall business strategy.<br />

Taking the time to compare your<br />

performance to others can be the most<br />

effective benchmark of all. i<br />

DAVID BROWN is<br />

co-founder and business<br />

mentor with Retail Edge<br />

Consultants.<br />

retailedgeconsultants.com<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37


MANAGEMENT<br />

INTELLIGENT IGNORANCE; POSITIVE RESULTS<br />

THINKING OUTSIDE THE SQUARE IS EASIER SAID THAN DONE, BUT RICH KIZER AND GEORGANNE BENDER HAVE<br />

SOME ADVICE ABOUT HOW INTELLIGENT IGNORANCE CAN PRODUCE POSITIVE OUTCOMES.<br />

The Wright brothers weren’t going to take ‘no’<br />

for an answer; they planned to sprout wings<br />

and fly. The year was 1903 and they were full<br />

of intelligent ideas, they also had the ability<br />

to ignore the common belief about man not<br />

being able to fly.<br />

This intelligent ignorance led them to try<br />

radical new ideas. The Wright brothers took<br />

to the sky and the rest is history. They flew<br />

in the face of all the negative beliefs that<br />

swirled around them.<br />

Today, the world relies on air travel for so<br />

many things and we’re glad Orville and<br />

Wilbur Wright demonstrated that “intelligent<br />

ignorance”, or as or as we fondly refer to it,<br />

‘i-squared’ or ‘i2’ for short.<br />

Fast forward to Milwaukee, Wisconsin, late<br />

in the 20th Century, where a man named<br />

Nick has just landed a job selling vacuum<br />

cleaners door-to-door. Starting as a trainee,<br />

Nick goes through the usual sales training<br />

exercises and activities.<br />

The last two days of training involve being<br />

sent to a test neighbourhood to practice his<br />

door-to-door craft. Because all sales trainees<br />

canvass this same neighbourhood, they leave<br />

the office with a warning: No one will buy<br />

a vacuum cleaner from you, so just practice<br />

greeting customers and getting your foot in<br />

the door. But no one warned Nick.<br />

Nick hit the streets not knowing he wouldn’t<br />

be able to sell a vacuum cleaner in this<br />

neighbourhood if his life depended on it.<br />

He didn’t know it was a cold market, so he<br />

unleashed what he learned in sales training.<br />

And sell he did, bringing in a record number of<br />

sales. There’s power in intelligent ignorance.<br />

Neither the Wright brothers nor Nick let<br />

history nor preconceived ideas dictate their<br />

actions. Never let assumptions or people<br />

who say “That can’t be done” or “We’ve done<br />

that before and it didn’t work”, stop you from<br />

trying new and innovating things for your life<br />

and your business.<br />

During a recent two-day brainstorming effort<br />

UNDER THE<br />

RULES OF<br />

BRAINSTORMING<br />

NO ONE GETS TO<br />

SAY, “THAT’S A<br />

STUPID IDEA”,<br />

THE WRIGHT BROTHERS IGNORED DOUBTERS<br />

to solve a client’s dilemma, the two of us had<br />

plenty of ideas, but this situation required<br />

different thinking because sometimes the<br />

tried and true ideas just stop working.<br />

On day three we asked a few entrepreneurs<br />

for their thoughts, even though they had no<br />

particular knowledge of our client’s industry.<br />

After explaining the issues, we asked them to<br />

take 30 minutes alone to think about what<br />

we had just shared before we convened a<br />

brainstorming session.<br />

Under the rules of brainstorming no one gets<br />

to say, “That’s a stupid idea”, because what<br />

one person thinks is crazy just might lead to<br />

an incredible idea by someone else.<br />

In just 20 minutes the room was buzzing<br />

with fresh ideas, and implementation<br />

strategies were bouncing off the walls. The<br />

solutions that came from this brainstorming<br />

session surprised us; they didn’t fit the<br />

paradigms of successful strategies we’d seen<br />

and used before. But that’s the point.<br />

When an outsider offers suggestions it’s<br />

too easy to think, “Yeah, okay. What do<br />

you know about my business?” They know<br />

enough not to say, “We tried that before<br />

and it didn’t work.”<br />

And you need to be smart enough to<br />

take their big ideas and tweak them<br />

until you reach your desired outcome.<br />

We merged the strategies our partners<br />

shared with ours, tweaking as we<br />

went along. Then we did a few test<br />

implementations to see what would<br />

happen and the strategies worked. We<br />

knew now what to suggest to our client<br />

and how to present it.<br />

Two weeks later we met with our client to<br />

present these tweaked i2 ideas, it was tense<br />

at first, as our client’s team mulled over the<br />

strategies we shared. Then the lights started<br />

to come on as one person after another<br />

said, “Why didn’t we think of that?” and “That<br />

makes perfect sense, how did we miss it?”<br />

Don’t let past history dictate your actions<br />

or compromise your decisions. Ask for help.<br />

Sometimes those with the least amount<br />

of experience can see the path to success<br />

more clearly than you can. It’s okay to be<br />

intelligently ignorant.<br />

Schedule monthly brainstorming meetings<br />

to talk about what’s going on in store,<br />

especially about what’s stale and how you<br />

might do better.<br />

Encourage everyone to come to the<br />

meeting with new, fresh, innovative, and<br />

exciting ideas to solve your problems. You’ll<br />

begin to hear problem solving ideas that<br />

you haven’t heard before. And maybe even<br />

a few opportunities that you didn’t know<br />

were there.<br />

Ignore what you know and brainstorm fresh<br />

ideas with your team – and maybe even a<br />

few core customers or trusted local retail<br />

partners There’s a new question bouncing<br />

around our office these days: “What’s your i2<br />

on this issue?” i<br />

RICH KIZER and<br />

GEORGANNE BENDER<br />

are retail strategists,<br />

authors and consultants.<br />

kizerandbender.com<br />

38 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


MARKETING & PR<br />

SHOULD YOU PUBLISH PRICING ON YOUR WEBSITE?<br />

ADVERTISING PRICES THROUGH ONLINE MARKETING CAN BE A MINEFIELD. JEREMY MILLER HAS SOME TIPS AS TO<br />

HOW YOU CAN DECIDE WHETHER OR NOT IT IS A MOVE YOU SHOULD CONSIDER MAKING.<br />

When in the midst of redesigning our<br />

website, we had a big internal debate: do<br />

we publish our rates online? I don’t have the<br />

answer, but I’d like to take you through the<br />

thinking behind whether to publish your<br />

pricing on your website.<br />

company’s website you can usually get it<br />

from an existing customer on social media.<br />

Ask the question on Twitter or Facebook,<br />

and if the company is large enough, or<br />

prominent enough, you’ll get an answer.<br />

SAVES TIME<br />

THE HELL NO STANCE<br />

I have been mentored to believe publishing<br />

prices is a big no, no. The reasons against<br />

publishing pricing are straightforward and<br />

can be attributed to a few clear concerns.<br />

Published prices saves time: Let your<br />

customers determine if your services are the<br />

right fit. My company’s goal is to achieve the<br />

two-call close — and if I could make it a onecall<br />

close, even better.<br />

Sticker Shock: There’s a perceived risk that<br />

you may scare customers away. They will see<br />

the price without understanding your value<br />

proposition, and that may drive them to seek<br />

out cheaper solutions.<br />

If your customers can’t see the value<br />

proposition from your front door then you<br />

have a branding problem. Life’s too short to<br />

build your business selling to price sensitive<br />

bottom-feeding customers.<br />

Educating the competition: The other reason<br />

to avoid publishing price is you can make it<br />

too easy for your competition. They can use<br />

that intel against you.<br />

I definitely find this a tricky issue, especially<br />

for industries that sell through a bidding<br />

process. Publishing your pricing may create<br />

an opening for the competition to slightly<br />

undercut your prices in a RFP (request for<br />

proposal) or tender.<br />

DON'T OVERESTIMATE<br />

That said, we can also overestimate the<br />

competition. As the old saying goes,<br />

“mimicry is the highest form of flattery.” If<br />

the competition is copying your services<br />

and pricing models then your company<br />

is defining the brand category and<br />

industry expectations.<br />

Price is a segue: My number one reason<br />

for not publishing price up until now is<br />

it’s a great call to action. When someone is<br />

ready to discover the price it’s time<br />

for a conversation.<br />

IF THE COMPETITION<br />

IS COPYING<br />

YOUR SERVICES<br />

AND PRICING<br />

MODELS THEN<br />

YOUR COMPANY<br />

IS DEFINING THE<br />

BRAND CATEGORY<br />

AND INDUSTRY<br />

EXPECTATIONS.<br />

PUBLISHING PRICES SAVES EVERYONE TIME<br />

They are receptive to a sales call, and you<br />

can accelerate the sales process by getting<br />

the customer on the phone.<br />

Positioned to negotiate: The other major<br />

sticking point for publishing price, and this<br />

one really does concern me, is it sets up the<br />

customer to negotiate.<br />

For example, the customer sees a service is<br />

$10,000 but they say, “We love it, but we’ll<br />

only pay $8,000.”<br />

Engaging in a price negotiation at the start<br />

of a sales cycle is dangerous. It’s not the way<br />

I want to start a relationship. I don’t have the<br />

experience to know if this situation is real or<br />

not, but it does give me cause for concern.<br />

THE HELL YES STANCE<br />

The internet has changed expectations.<br />

We live in an information-rich market,<br />

and if customers want the price then give<br />

it to them.<br />

Price is everywhere: Price isn’t hard to<br />

find anymore. We first got conditioned to<br />

discover the price by the car companies. You<br />

can configure any car and their websites<br />

will give you the exact price. This practice<br />

has extended well beyond the automotive<br />

industry now.<br />

Even if the price isn’t published on a<br />

A primary way I achieve this is through<br />

making my website sell as well as my<br />

best sales person. My thinking is any<br />

information I would give in a sales call<br />

should be on the website.<br />

This helps me in two ways. First, it eliminates<br />

people that aren’t a fit. This saves them time,<br />

and it saves me time.<br />

Second, it positions the services by helping<br />

customers understand where the services<br />

fit in the spectrum of marketing options<br />

available to them. Price is a positioning tool.<br />

The Customer Wants Pricing: This is the<br />

number one reason for me to publish price.<br />

If the customer wants that information then<br />

give it to them.<br />

It’s a key aspect of their decision making<br />

process. If it helps them make better buying<br />

decisions faster, it just makes sense to<br />

publish your rates proudly on your website.<br />

Publishing your prices on your website<br />

doesn’t fulfil your value proposition or make<br />

your brand stickier, but it can whet your<br />

customers’ appetite to buy faster. i<br />

JEREMY MILLER is a<br />

brand builder, keynote<br />

speaker and bestselling<br />

author of Sticky Branding.<br />

stickybranding.com<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39


LOGGED ON<br />

GAIN CUSTOMERS WITH EYE-CATCHING IMAGES<br />

HIGH-RESOLUTION, COLOURFUL PRODUCT IMAGES MEAN EVERYTHING TO JEWELLERY RETAILERS. LILIAN SUE DISCUSSES<br />

SOME ONLINE TOOLS THAT CAN HELP PRODUCE STUNNING PHOTOS THAT WOW CUSTOMERS.<br />

Building a website that presents a<br />

compelling brand story might bring<br />

visitors to a website but it’s only one<br />

aspect responsible for keeping them there.<br />

What grabs the attention of web windowshoppers<br />

is compelling imagery.<br />

High-quality images that frame jewellery in<br />

the right light can showcase colour, clarity<br />

and intricate design and detail. <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

is about appearance so the right images<br />

invoke powerful emotions in viewers.<br />

Content moves quickly online and<br />

customers often don’t have the time<br />

to read through long paragraphs of text.<br />

If 90 per cent of information transmitted to<br />

the brain is visual, and visuals are processed<br />

1000-times faster in the brain, it’s no<br />

wonder images are so much<br />

more memorable.<br />

Having a variety of images – from products<br />

to events – helps to keep current customers<br />

and prospective buyers interested, which is<br />

important considering the average stay at a<br />

website is usually under five minutes.<br />

Relevant and entertaining visual content<br />

that is refreshed regularly means retailers<br />

won’t risk losing visitors due to boredom<br />

and repetition.<br />

Consistently posting images that have<br />

similar colours, patterns and designs will<br />

help a business build its visual brandidentity.<br />

Using relevant images will help<br />

jewellers gain attention, build loyalty<br />

and increase engagement among<br />

customers online.<br />

Here are a few free and easy-to-use online<br />

tools to help retailers create eye-catching<br />

images that attract customers.<br />

BEFUNKY<br />

Free online photo editor BeFunky can<br />

help even novice photographers produce<br />

amazing photos. The powerful photo editor<br />

gives retailers the ability to crop photos and<br />

adjust them for exposure and saturation.<br />

Even better, BeFunky has an array of photo<br />

effects such as filters, textures and texture<br />

backgrounds. For a striking, elegant look,<br />

perhaps experiment with the built-in, black<br />

and white effects.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s can use BeFunky to tell the story<br />

of a product line by using the platform’s<br />

collage maker to create customised online<br />

photo collages.<br />

Retailers can choose from an extensive<br />

selection of fully customisable layouts,<br />

patterns and colours, including ones<br />

specifically designed to be shared on<br />

Pinterest and Facebook.<br />

BeFunky’s graphic-designer tool lets<br />

a retail brand’s team members easily<br />

create banners, flyers, cards and posters<br />

advertising new products by using a<br />

toolbox of functional design features.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s can easily create brochures<br />

to promote new partnerships and<br />

infographics to give customers in-depth<br />

information on how a piece of jewellery is<br />

repaired and cleaned.<br />

PIXLR<br />

Pixlr is another free, online photo editor<br />

that offers retailers and their team members<br />

the ability to conduct graphic design on<br />

the go using three different platforms.<br />

The robust web editor allows team<br />

members to easily replace colours in<br />

photos, transform objects and add layers<br />

and effects the same way they could if they<br />

had access to Photoshop.<br />

For minor fixes, creative effects and borders,<br />

users can launch Pixlr’s Express web editor.<br />

With the Express editor, retailers can apply<br />

quick fixes such as overlays and stickers to<br />

make any photo stand out.<br />

With Pixlr’s mobile app on Android and<br />

iPhone, retailers can take their photo<br />

editing on the go by creating custom<br />

photo collages, stylising product images<br />

and even layering multiple photos to<br />

CREATE DYNAMIC IMAGES USING A VARIETY OF ONLINE MEDIUMS<br />

JEWELLERS CAN<br />

USE BEFUNKY TO<br />

TELL THE STORY<br />

OF A PRODUCT<br />

LINE BY USING<br />

THE PLATFORM’S<br />

COLLAGE MAKER<br />

TO CREATE<br />

CUSTOMISED<br />

ONLINE PHOTO<br />

COLLAGES<br />

create a unique look using double exposure.<br />

CANVA<br />

Another popular free, online photo editor<br />

is Canva, which gives retailers the freedom<br />

to create eye-catching photos in a wide<br />

variety of formats.<br />

With access to thousands of templates,<br />

icons and design elements such as shapes,<br />

lines and typefaces, jewellers will be able<br />

to design eye-catching posters, flyers,<br />

brochures, infographics and images for their<br />

social-media platforms.<br />

Retailers will also be able to create<br />

images, e-newsletters and invitations to<br />

events such as in-store sales. The platform<br />

also has an extensive library of photo<br />

ideas to inspire jewellers for their next<br />

marketing campaigns.<br />

Using the free online tools mentioned here,<br />

jewellers should be able to create stunning<br />

images that will give their brands a strong<br />

visual identity. Strong imagery attracts<br />

visitors, which generates customers and<br />

results in business growth. i<br />

LILIAN SUE is a social<br />

media and PR strategist.<br />

She operates In Retrospect<br />

Writing Services.<br />

inretrospect21.wordpress.com<br />

40 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


MY STORE<br />

STORE: LORD<br />

COCONUT<br />

LOCATION: Melbourne, Australia<br />

NAME: Mark Boldiston<br />

POSITION: Owner<br />

When was the renovated space<br />

completed?<br />

We renovated our new store in<br />

December 2015.<br />

Who is the target market and how did<br />

they influence the store design?<br />

We have a pretty broad target market in<br />

that we cater for people who are looking<br />

for handcrafted masculine jewellery<br />

not usually found in a high-street store,<br />

those who want something unique and<br />

Australian made. We wanted to create<br />

an environment that guys in particular,<br />

felt comfortable in. We didn’t want it to<br />

be ritzy or intimidating and it had to be<br />

interesting so that even if the jewellery<br />

wasn’t right, the customer enjoyed the<br />

experience of coming to Lord Coconut.<br />

With the relationship between store<br />

ambience and consumer purchasing in<br />

mind, which features in the store best<br />

encourage sales?<br />

The whole ethos and ambience of the<br />

store is based around making the average<br />

person feel comfortable shopping. We<br />

think we’ve got it pretty right when we<br />

have some customers who will spend<br />

up to 50 minutes in the store. We’ve<br />

turned down the lights, removed most<br />

of the mirrors, stopped any notion of the<br />

hard sell and generated a space where<br />

anyone feels comfortable. We believe this<br />

has assisted in the ‘linger factor’ so that<br />

any purchasing decision is made on the<br />

customer’s terms in their own time.<br />

What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?<br />

I’d like to think that our wow factor was<br />

replicating the look and ambience of a<br />

19th century natural history museum<br />

where the jewellery takes the place of<br />

all those little gems or specimens found<br />

hidden away in draws, under glass domes<br />

and in dusty corners of such museums.<br />

The reality is that we are based in<br />

Mitchell House, one of Melbourne’s Art<br />

Deco gems, a view we have highlighted<br />

through our steel framed windows. i<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41


10 YEARS AGO<br />

WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?<br />

A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE FEBRUARY 2009 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.<br />

Expertise Events<br />

launches NZ fair<br />

The story: Expertise Events has announced it<br />

will launch a new jewellery fair and awards<br />

competition in New Zealand.<br />

The company said the decision came in<br />

response to industry requests to establish<br />

a world-class trade event, lead by the<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of New Zealand.<br />

The trade show – held at the Auckland<br />

ASB Showgrounds – also had backing from<br />

the Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Buying Group,<br />

which had a lounge for its members on the<br />

ground floor.<br />

INTERNET TRADERS IRK<br />

TRADITIONAL RETAILERS<br />

The story: The JAA has sought input<br />

over a controversial proposal to<br />

grant standalone online retailers<br />

membership to the organisation.<br />

Numerous JAA members wrote to the<br />

association requesting companies<br />

that solely traded on the internet be<br />

refused subscription. They argued<br />

online retailers created an uneven<br />

playing field, driving business to their<br />

sites by pitching a price message that<br />

seeks to undermine confidence in<br />

traditional retailers.<br />

Buying group gives<br />

fairs leading edge<br />

The story: Major Australian buying group Leading<br />

Edge <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has confirmed its involvement in<br />

2009 JAA trade fairs and beyond.<br />

The move was expected to add further credibility<br />

to the events, helping maximise the buying and<br />

selling potential at the Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair<br />

Brisbane and International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair Sydney.<br />

“We want to support the industry and are pleased<br />

to be presented on the Fair floor,” Leading Edge<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s general manager Joshua Zarb said.<br />

An integral part of the events’ marketing<br />

campaign, Leading Edge’s presence was expected<br />

to complement an array of other key partners,<br />

including <strong>Jeweller</strong> magazine, the JAA, Nationwide<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s and Zone Advance<br />

Protection Systems.<br />

“Internet traders are less regulated<br />

than retailers and they often get<br />

away with making unchallenged<br />

assertions,” the member letter stated.<br />

The letter came in response to a JAA<br />

email distributed in November 2008,<br />

which stated a case for allowing<br />

online traders membership.<br />

The JAA’s position was; internet<br />

sellers are here to stay; the JAA<br />

should represent the entire<br />

industry; and it could better<br />

influence online retailers’ conduct<br />

if they were members. It was also<br />

essential traditional retailers learned<br />

to complete with e-commerce<br />

enterprises.<br />

Surreal offers ‘hope’ for ovarian cancer<br />

The story: Surreal <strong>Jeweller</strong>y has announced a<br />

collaboration with Ovarian Cancer Australia to<br />

generate greater awareness of the disease.<br />

To raise funds, the company has launched its<br />

Hope charm, with a percentage of sales<br />

going to the charity, which supports<br />

affected women through treatment<br />

and services.<br />

The sterling silver charm featured a teal-enamel finish,<br />

with the colour being internationally recognised for<br />

representing ovarian cancer. Approximately 1,600<br />

women are diagnosed with the disease each year in<br />

Australia, with the average age of diagnosis being 63.<br />

According to Surreal, the piece would retail for<br />

$75, while a yellow and gold version would also be<br />

available for $250.<br />

42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


EVENTS<br />

JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR<br />

A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2019</strong><br />

MARCH <strong>2019</strong><br />

JUNE <strong>2019</strong><br />

INDIA INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY SHOW<br />

TUCSON GEM, MINERAL &<br />

FOSSIL SHOWCASE<br />

Tucson, US<br />

<strong>February</strong> 2 – 17<br />

visittucson.org/events/gem-show<br />

IIJS SIGNATURE<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

<strong>February</strong> 10 – 13<br />

https://www.iijs-signature.org<br />

BANGKOK GEMS<br />

& JEWELRY FAIR<br />

Bangkok, Thailand<br />

<strong>February</strong> 20 – 24<br />

bkkgems.com<br />

HONG KONG<br />

INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND,<br />

GEM & PEARL SHOW<br />

Hong Kong, China<br />

<strong>February</strong> 26 – March 2<br />

m.hktdc.com/fair/hkdgp-en/HKTDC-<br />

Hong-Kong-International-Diamond-<br />

-Gem---Pearl-Show.html<br />

HKTDC HONG KONG<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY SHOW<br />

Hong Kong, China<br />

<strong>February</strong> 28 – March 4<br />

http://m.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-<br />

en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-International-<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y-Show.html<br />

BASELWORLD<br />

Basel, Switzerland<br />

March 21 – 26<br />

baselworld.com<br />

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW<br />

Istanbul, Turkey<br />

March 21 – 24<br />

march.istanbuljewelryshow.com<br />

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />

ANTWERP<br />

March 31 – April 5<br />

nationwidejewellers.com.au<br />

APRIL <strong>2019</strong><br />

OROAREZZO<br />

Italy<br />

April 6 – 9<br />

oroarezzo.it<br />

CHINA INTERNATIONAL<br />

GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM<br />

FAIR SHENZHEN<br />

Shenzhen, China<br />

April 19 – 22<br />

shenzhenjewelleryfair.com<br />

COOBER PEDY GEM TRADE<br />

SHOW<br />

Coober Pedy, South Australia<br />

April 20 – 21<br />

cooberpedygemtradeshow.com.au<br />

JCK LAS VEGAS<br />

Las Vegas, US<br />

June 1 – 4<br />

lasvegas.jckonline.com<br />

HONG KONG JEWELLERY<br />

& GEM FAIR<br />

Hong Kong<br />

June 20 – 23<br />

exhibitions.jewellerynet.com<br />

JULY <strong>2019</strong><br />

WINTON OPAL TRADESHOW<br />

Winton, Australia<br />

July 12 – 13<br />

qboa.com.au<br />

LIGHTNING RIDE OPAL &<br />

GEM FESTIVAL<br />

Lightning Ridge, Australia<br />

July 24 – 27<br />

lightningridgeopalfestival.com.au<br />

AUGUST <strong>2019</strong><br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Sydney, Australia<br />

August 24 – 26<br />

jewelleryfair.com.au<br />

JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Tokyo, Japan<br />

August 28 – 30<br />

japanjewelleryfair.com<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

TBA<br />

iijs.org<br />

SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

VICENZAORO<br />

Vicenza, Italy<br />

September 7 – 11<br />

vicenzaoro.com/en<br />

SHENZHEN INTERNATIONAL<br />

JEWELLERY FAIR<br />

Shenzhen, China<br />

September 12 – 16<br />

shenzhenjewelleryfair.com<br />

ASIAWORLD EXPO<br />

Hong Kong<br />

September 16 – 29<br />

exhibitions.jewellerynet.com<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

BHARAT DIAMOND WEEK<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

14 – 16 October<br />

bharatdiamondweek.com<br />

NOVEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

CHINA INTERNATIONAL<br />

GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM<br />

FAIR SHANGHAI<br />

Shanghai, China<br />

November 28 – December 1<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43


MY BENCH<br />

Martin Lovell<br />

WORKS AT:<br />

Lovells <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Studio<br />

AGE: 57<br />

YEARS IN TRADE: 40<br />

TRAINING: Four-year<br />

apprenticeship followed by<br />

39 years of learning<br />

FIRST JOB: Clausons<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Cairns<br />

OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:<br />

Antwerp Diamond Broker<br />

Favourite gemstone:<br />

Tourmalines because the<br />

diversity of this gem can be<br />

likened to a chameleon, not<br />

that it changes colours at<br />

will, but because it can be<br />

found in so many different<br />

hues, it can challenge so<br />

many gemstones for colour<br />

and beauty.<br />

Favourite metal: 18-carat<br />

yellow gold, its malleability<br />

and colour ticks all the<br />

boxes for me, it “feels” right<br />

in the hand, in the rollers,<br />

in the draw plates, on the<br />

anvil for forging and the eye<br />

both before polishing and<br />

especially after.<br />

Favourite tool:<br />

My fixed swing away torch<br />

to the side of my bench.<br />

It is so versatile utilising<br />

and frees my hands up for<br />

holding pieces for soldering.<br />

Best part of job: Having<br />

the ability to design and<br />

completely handcraft a<br />

piece of jewellery, from<br />

melting ingots through to<br />

the final setting by hand,<br />

the challenge now of<br />

mastering CAD programs.<br />

Worst part of job:<br />

Watchbands and batteries.<br />

Best tip from a jeweller:<br />

Always challenge yourself<br />

and always consider<br />

alternative ways to do a job.<br />

Best tip to a jeweller:<br />

You can learn from<br />

anyone, regardless of their<br />

experience level. i


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SOAPBOX<br />

DIAMOND MARKETERS, RETAILERS<br />

ARE DRAGGING OUR INDUSTRY DOWN<br />

Behavioural analysts, researchers and<br />

social commentators have written<br />

profusely about the different generations<br />

of consumers and their buying habits. The<br />

buying habits in the jewellery industry<br />

are changing, especially in relation to<br />

diamond purchases.<br />

Older generations of Australian women<br />

coveted jewellery, precious stones and<br />

diamonds, and owned pieces either handed<br />

down through the family or had pieces gifted<br />

by somebody who loved them. Most of us<br />

grew up with mothers or grandmothers who<br />

matched that pattern. There are probably<br />

people who subscribe to that view, however<br />

many younger people don’t have the same<br />

attitudes that the store managers or jewellery<br />

marketers expect of them. Younger people<br />

don’t subscribe to the same values that their<br />

mothers or grandmothers held.<br />

Marketers believe that everybody aspires to<br />

drive the best car or own a ring over 1-carat<br />

and it is naïve. Some marketers are more<br />

sophisticated than that, but many are still<br />

falling into the trap of assuming that their<br />

consumers are behaving in ways that the<br />

market wants them to.<br />

If you’re a consumer and you’re looking at<br />

four competing jewellers on one street, and<br />

each of them is telling you, “Don’t trust the<br />

other jewellers’ diamonds” or “My diamond<br />

is the best” or “Blood diamonds are an<br />

issue” (even though in fact, the number of<br />

blood diamonds in the world has shrunk<br />

immensely), then the consumer will lose<br />

trust in the industry as a whole. Buying<br />

blood diamonds isn’t so much an issue<br />

anymore, but marketers still talk about their<br />

diamonds as cleaner or more responsibly<br />

sourced than their neighbours.<br />

Some of these jewellers have sold diamonds<br />

for generations, and have only recently started<br />

claiming some individual superiority over<br />

their competitors in the diamond category.<br />

Until recently that argument only related to<br />

grade, cut or colour of diamonds. We’ve got<br />

to remember that most consumers have only<br />

just got used to the four Cs.<br />

Stating that “each of our diamonds<br />

are ethically sourced” has added another<br />

benefit to the established four Cs. Now they<br />

are marketed for this additional, intangible<br />

benefit.. Consumers are no longer just buying<br />

a diamond of their chosen size, colour, clarity<br />

and cut, but beyond the flash on their finger,<br />

it’s giving them that warm feeling in being<br />

able to say “I’m a good person because I buy<br />

ethical diamonds”.<br />

It becomes incredibly confusing for<br />

consumers to have to deal with the idea that<br />

one diamond may be cleaner than the others<br />

and when jewellers damage the category,<br />

they ultimately damage the brand in the long<br />

run. Unfortunately, the concept of disparaging<br />

the category is seen as a legitimate marketing<br />

ploy by many of the bigger brands and this<br />

is translating to marketing tactics used by<br />

retailers on the high street.<br />

For every customer that embraces the<br />

branded diamond as cleaner than the others,<br />

or somehow better than the rest, marketers<br />

must also take responsibility for engendering<br />

insecurity in the marketplace that diamonds<br />

might not be clean or in some way cannot<br />

be trusted. This may well have a negative and<br />

THE CONCEPT OF<br />

DISPARAGING THE<br />

CATEGORY IS SEEN<br />

AS A LEGITIMATE<br />

MARKETING<br />

PLOY BY MANY<br />

OF THE BIGGER<br />

BRANDS AND THIS<br />

IS TRANSLATING<br />

TO MARKETING<br />

TACTICS USED BY<br />

RETAILERS<br />

measurable impact on diamond sales in years<br />

to come and probably is already having a<br />

dramatic impact on sales.<br />

If the bigger companies want to continue to<br />

sell premier products, they need to spend<br />

their marketing in regaining consumers’<br />

trust. If they don’t take time and approach it<br />

with smart marketing, rather than simplistic<br />

marketing, they will continue to cause distrust<br />

among consumers in that industry.<br />

It’s very difficult to convince consumers to<br />

come back to a category that they have<br />

walked away from.<br />

Perhaps, this is one of the reasons why many<br />

of the big jewellers are looking to open<br />

multiple shops in countries that represent<br />

new markets, because it’s easier than worrying<br />

about convincing western consumers that<br />

have already moved on in terms of loyalty of<br />

aspirations.<br />

You don’t increase airline travel by saying<br />

that flying isn’t safe. Just as you can’t market<br />

diamonds by “saying ours are better and other<br />

brands or companies cannot be trusted.”<br />

We need to work hard to regain the trust<br />

of consumers under the age of 30, because<br />

they are the ones whose values in relation<br />

to jewellery have changed. If we cannot win<br />

them back, then they will start looking at<br />

other gemstones or synthetics and it will be<br />

hard to draw them back. i<br />

Name: Hugh Kronenberg<br />

Business: Kronenberg – Breathtaking Gems<br />

Position: Director<br />

Location: Sydney, NSW<br />

Years in the industry: 6 years<br />

46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>February</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


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