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15 MARCH 2019

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24<br />

LIFESTYLE<br />

Dinah S. Ventura, Editor<br />

Friday, <strong>15</strong> March <strong>2019</strong><br />

Daily Tribune<br />

A story in<br />

every bite<br />

Namnamin was conceived as a celebration of the<br />

literary with the other arts through the subject of<br />

food. The title is derived from NAM, acronym of<br />

National Arts Month that is celebrated in February<br />

Text and photos by Roel Hoang<br />

Manipon<br />

The kaldereta (beef stew) and<br />

the kare-kare (stew in peanut sauce)<br />

were remarkable everywhere we<br />

went — rich and really malinamnam<br />

(tasty). “We never scrimp on<br />

ingredients,” they always say in<br />

Pampanga, widely regarded as the<br />

Philippines’ culinary or food capital.<br />

Appropriately, the Central<br />

Luzon province was the venue<br />

of Namnamin, a conference that<br />

proved to be multi-sensory with<br />

dances and other performances,<br />

feasting, exhibits, tours and, of<br />

course, talks on food, food culture<br />

and writing.<br />

Namnamin, held from 25 to<br />

27 February <strong>2019</strong> at the Orchid<br />

TIBOK-TIBOK of Susie’s Cuisine.<br />

Gardens, a resort, hotel, events<br />

venue and dining complex in<br />

Pampanga’s capital San Fernando<br />

City, was organized by the National<br />

Commission for Culture and the<br />

Arts’ (NCCA) National Committee<br />

on Literary Arts (NCLA), in<br />

celebration of the National Arts<br />

Month.<br />

“Namnamin was conceived as<br />

a celebration<br />

of the literary<br />

with the other<br />

arts through<br />

the subject of<br />

food,” the head<br />

of the NCLA, writer<br />

and Cebuano literary<br />

scholar Dr. Hope<br />

Sabanpan-Yu, said.<br />

“ Namnamin i s<br />

derived from NAM,<br />

acronym of National<br />

Arts Month that is<br />

celebrated in February.<br />

The event is termed as<br />

such by the National<br />

Committee on Literary<br />

Arts as a celebration of the<br />

role of food in all artistic<br />

endeavors,” Pampangan<br />

literature professor Dr. Juliet<br />

Mallari, who was the event’s<br />

director, explained.<br />

“Namnamin hoped<br />

to engage the artists<br />

and the local community<br />

in a celebration featuring<br />

the melding of food and<br />

art. When consumed with<br />

pleasure, both are savored<br />

in the ‘namnamin’ sense.<br />

And I think this objective has<br />

been achieved as various<br />

performances during<br />

the event in Pampanga,<br />

known as a culinary capital,<br />

were visually appetizing and<br />

gastronomically as well as<br />

intellectually satisfying.”<br />

She further said: “Visually<br />

delightful were the festive<br />

and artistic renditions of the<br />

kamaru (mole cricket), sisig<br />

and taramindu (tamarind)<br />

dances, which are representing<br />

signature Kapampangan dishes<br />

and a local fruit, respectively; the<br />

funny portrayal of local color in<br />

the comedy skit of the students<br />

about a cooking contest; the<br />

entertaining regional folk art forms<br />

such as mascota, Kapampangan<br />

folksongs, Visayan tagay ta and<br />

Bicol tigsik, which also highlighted<br />

food-related themes. Gastronomically<br />

satisfying were the mouthwatering<br />

cooking demonstrations and the<br />

sisig tasted after the dance number<br />

of the Sinukwan Kapampangan<br />

dance troupe. Intellectually<br />

stimulating were the<br />

moving recitation<br />

of spoken word<br />

poetry and,<br />

of course,<br />

t h e<br />

informative<br />

plenary and<br />

panel sessions that<br />

provided fresh insights<br />

into Filipino culinary arts.”<br />

Garnishes of performances<br />

and exhibits<br />

During the opening event,<br />

between talks and during dinners,<br />

there were several performances<br />

spicing the whole conference,<br />

serving like garnishes and<br />

heightening the experience of the<br />

event. Most of the performances<br />

were on local folk traditions,<br />

some of which are vanishing,<br />

giving participants a taste of<br />

the richness of local culture and<br />

heritage.<br />

PAMPANGA Agta performers during the opening.<br />

PSAU’S tamarind-inspired dance.<br />

Welcoming Namnamin<br />

delegates and attendees, mostly<br />

teachers, to the event halls The<br />

Forum and The Orchidarium were<br />

the Pampanga Brass Band, the<br />

Dolores Rondangklung and a group<br />

of Pampanga Aytas.<br />

The literature of food offers<br />

a rich and complicated<br />

history of value systems<br />

implicit in preparing,<br />

serving, and eating of food.<br />

The opening program featured<br />

a Pampangan oral form by Rene<br />

Salor; a Kamaru Festival dance from<br />

the town of Magalang; a tamarindinspired<br />

dance by the Pampanga<br />

State Agricultural University (PSAU)<br />

Performing Arts La Granja Modelo<br />

Dance Troupe; a comedy skit by<br />

the PSAU Performing Arts; and a<br />

poetry performance by poet Dr.<br />

Vim Nadera.<br />

A miniature version<br />

of a sisig festival was<br />

also held with a<br />

sisig-inspired dance<br />

by the Sinukwan<br />

Kapampangan<br />

Dance Troupe. A<br />

short talk revealed<br />

that the dish for which<br />

Angeles City is famous<br />

was originally made up<br />

of chopped fruits such as<br />

papaya, guava and green<br />

mangoes, or banana<br />

heart, made even sour by<br />

vinegar, bilimbi (kamias<br />

or iba in Filipino) or<br />

calamunding. It evolved<br />

to what we know of sisig<br />

today — pig’s ears and<br />

cheeks boiled, grilled and<br />

finely chopped, blended<br />

with chopped onions,<br />

seasoned with vinegar<br />

and/or calamansi juice,<br />

salt, black pepper and<br />

chili slices and sometimes<br />

minced grilled chicken<br />

liver and served on a hot<br />

plate.<br />

Other performances included a<br />

spoken-word performance by Prolet<br />

Sanchez; a rap performance by<br />

AKT; a mascota, a wedding dance<br />

of the Ibanag people of Cagayan;<br />

and tigsik, Bicol short poems often<br />

funny and pithy.<br />

Aside from the performances, an<br />

area in the event venue was dedicated<br />

to small exhibits: “Kauyagan: The<br />

Blessings of Life,” a solo painting<br />

exhibit of Salima Saway-Agraan;<br />

selected paintings on food by visual<br />

artist-chef Claude Tayag; photos on<br />

food and food culture by a group of<br />

Mabalacat photographers; and an<br />

exhibit featuring National Artists<br />

for literature.<br />

Meaty talks and lectures<br />

The conference proper was as<br />

intriguing and sumptuous as the<br />

food consumed. “The literature of<br />

food offers a rich and complicated<br />

history of value systems implicit<br />

in preparing, serving and eating<br />

of food. Sharing food, breaking<br />

bread, raising a toast, summer<br />

picnics, formal dinners, drinking<br />

traditions — all have certain<br />

LILIAN Borromeo makes the sanikulas cookies.<br />

cultural and ethnic significances<br />

which we hoped to highlight<br />

by bringing in tradition to the<br />

discussion and into performance<br />

Turn to page 23<br />

New faces,<br />

going places<br />

As the Daily Tribune continues to<br />

expand and grow, we welcome the newest<br />

members of our family!<br />

u Super scribes<br />

Entertainment stalwart Isah V. Red joins the<br />

team as a columnist — his “Simply Red” column<br />

will appear in the Spotlight section every Monday<br />

and Wednesday, starting 18 March. He will also be<br />

the sub-editor for the section headed by lifestyle<br />

and entertainment editor Dinah S. Ventura.<br />

Prolific features writer and book author Jojo<br />

G. Silvestre, who joined the Lifestyle team as a<br />

society columnist (“Proust Is Back” every Friday<br />

and “Let’s Drink To That” every Tuesday) last year,<br />

will now also handle the Living Spaces section<br />

that comes out every Sunday.<br />

u Experts in the field<br />

The Living Spaces section, which covers<br />

property development, architecture and design,<br />

will carry a weekly column penned by one of the<br />

Philippines’ experts in the field, Jose Ramon<br />

“Pinggoy” Aliling, who became perhaps the<br />

youngest construction magnate when he took<br />

over the Jose Aliling Construction Management<br />

in 2006. In his 20s, he became the youngest board<br />

adviser of De La Salle’s College of Engineering<br />

and was named the youngest president of the<br />

Construction Project Management Association<br />

of the Philippines. He was the very first Civil<br />

engineer cited in 20<strong>15</strong> as one of The Outstanding<br />

Young Men for Civil Engineering.<br />

Meanwhile, the Wellbeing section debuting this<br />

17 March introduces doctor-couple Brian Michael<br />

Cabral and Monica Therese Cating-Cabral, who<br />

will alternately write a weekly column every<br />

Sunday. Brian is a certified specialist in<br />

transplant nephrology and internal<br />

medicine, while Monica heads<br />

the osteoporosis and bone<br />

health clinic.

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