CR5 Issue 168 May 2019

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Kazakhstan in Central Asia Astana In 1998, barely seven years after independence, a new capital rose in Kazakhstan in the middle of the steppes on the banks of the Ishim River. Planned by the Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa, it grew into a futuristic dream, replacing Almaty, the former capital enclosed by mountains with little room for expansion and prone to natural disasters. Today, with over one million people sharing 100 nationalities, Astana is the northernmost capital in Asia and the second coldest in the world. Although much of the old town still spreads along the right bank, the new capital across the water dazzles everyone with innovative architecture, wide avenues and open spaces and parks. Day or night, the central Nurzhol Boulevard is a wonderful place for a stroll, a wide traffic-free oasis full of greenery, fountains and flowers and traditional sculptures, here a shaman, there a dancer or a nomad. Stretching for over two kilometres towards the riverside presidential headquarters, it is dominated by the Bayterek Tower, the top attraction in Astana. Bayterek is moulded like a giant steel yurt, gleaming white, slightly topsy-turvy It’s easy to see why: rising to 97 metres, this lofty monument is crowned by a 300 tonne glass ball where colours change according to the natural light. Bayterek, they say, is a ‘tree of life’, clutching an ‘egg’ between its branches to ensure a peaceful and prosperous future. It is truly enticing and up on the top, inspired no doubt by the wonderful views, many visitors make a wish, eyes closed as they place their hand in the president’s golden print. Away from the river, the boulevard opens onto a vast circular space leading to fine outdoor restaurants and flower shops and an archway framing the Khan Shatyr centre, an indoor place for souvenir and other stores, as well as family amusements – including a beach covered with sand from the Maldives. But most exciting is the actual building, moulded like a giant steel yurt, gleaming white, slightly topsy-turvy, and one of Norman Foster’s landmarks. Bold and dynamic, the new Astana also pays tribute to its roots, be it in the museums, the stark blue Palace of Independence or the Central Concert Hall, where the main room is shaped like a dombyra lute, Kazakhstan’s national instrument. Sculptures of Samruk, the mythical bird, pop up here and there to protect the country. In 1999, UNESCO declared Astana a ‘City of Peace’, a theme upheld in the newlyerected Peace Wall, inscribed with the word ‘peace’ in 51 languages, and the glass pyramid, known as the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation. There a stained glass painting displays 130 doves symbolising cultural and religious tolerance. Islam is the main religion, open and relaxed for most followers, and with its white minarets and domes, the iconic Hazrat Sultan mosque claims the largest complex of its kind in Central Asia. Inaugurated in 2012, it was named after a 12th century poet and mystic, linking past and present in one of the youngest capitals in the world. Solange Hando 76 Log into www.cr5.co.uk your local community website!
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CR5 Issue 168 May 2019

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