October-December 2019

SA &
BEYOND
OCTOBER 2019 | ISSUE 01
travel magazine
FREE COPY
Northern Cape
Explore the Routes
Soul Traveller
Brett Shuttleworth
Living like a local in
Lisbon, Portugal
www.sa-beyond.co.za
The multi generational
holiday trend

Experience the wild
places of Africa. In
an expansive 10,000
hectare private game
reserve, just 2 hours
from Johannesburg.
TELEPHONE: +27 (0)11 516 4367 | MABULARES@EXTRAORDINARY.CO.ZA
WWW.MABULA.COM

Where
Tranquility
& Elegance
originate
Conferences | Weddings | Leisure | Spa
BOOKINGS & ENQUIRIES:
011 317 0600 | reservation@kloofzicht.co.za
Central Reservations: 08611 48866 | cro@guvon.co.za | www.guvonhotels.co.za
SA&BEYOND 1

EDITOR’S NOTE
The season of
new beginnings...
Publisher/ Editor-In-Chief
SUNISHA SOOKDEW
Sales Team
PATRICIA CHETTY
+27 67 041 2606
SANDRA ZACHAROPOULOS
+27 82 257 6590
Contributors
DAWN JORGENSEN
RITESH SOOKDEW
BRANDON ZACHAROPOULOS
Design Director
RAJESH MUNGROO
+27 84 015 3887
Production
IMPRESS INVESTMENTS
Distribution:
MEDIA SUPPORT SERVICES (PTY) LTD
’M super excited, and there’s good reason
to be! Spring is finally here - a season that
brings the promise of new life and renewed
hope.
My heart beams with pride seeing SA & BEYOND
travel magazine come to life and I am extremely
grateful to family, friends and the SA & BEYOND team
who believed in my vision. I will be the first to admit
that working on the launch issue had its challenges,
however perseverance, determination and dedication
saw the magazine coming together in the most
beautiful way.
Read about remarkable South African game
reserves, get a taste of what it feels like to Live like a
Local in Lisbon, Portugal and why a break to do some
‘soul searching’ in Rishikesh, India may be exactly
what you need. Visit the Northern Cape to experience
the beauty of nature and embrace the trend of multigenerational
holidays that cater for the entire family.
Importantly, learn how to be a more Responsible
Traveller as you find these and other features in this
issue, which we hope will inspire your future travel
decisions.
Be sure to enter the competition on Page 6 and you
could win a two night stay at a fantastic Protea Hotel.
The winning story will be featured in the December
2019 issue.
I look forward to your interaction with us on our
social media platforms as this will motivate us to keep
our content interesting and fresh. Don’t forget to scan
the QR code on the front cover of SA & Beyond – it will
direct you to our website where you’ll find a digital copy
of the magazine. Feel free to share our articles far and
wide.
I am personally committed to offering content
that allows you to experience a host of memorable
destinations, both in South Africa and beyond.
Here’s to travel, the longevity of SA & Beyond and
to taking in all the beauty that this wonderful world has
to offer, together!
Yours,
Sunisha
www.sa-beyond.co.za
SA and Beyond
@SAandBeyond
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the possibilities
SA&BEYOND 3

IN THIS ISSUE
8
Soul
Traveller
Brett Shuttleworth
Creating a Ripple Effect of
Love Globally
10
Thanda Safari
A place of wilderness
and wildlife
16 Marrakech
Exploring
Morocco’s Pink City
28 Northern
Cape
Explore the
Routes
33
Living Like A Local
In Lisbon, Portugal
A city of cobbled roads and
colourful tram rides
4
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38
Rishikesh, India
The Beatles, meditation
and a spiritual retreat on
the banks of the holy
Ganges River
43
Vietnam’s Ho
Chi Minh City
A heaving metropolis
46
Samara Private
Game Reserve
Rewilding the plains
of Camdeboo
54 Venice
The Eternal City
SA&BEYOND 5

Win
a two night
stay at
Protea Hotel
One lucky SA & BEYOND reader will win a
2 night stay at a Protea Hotel valued at R2 100!
All you have to do is share with us your most amazing experience at your favourite
destination. Your story should be between 150 and 200 words and sent to
admin@sa-beyond.co.za by no later than 15 November 2019. Please include your
full name, contact number and an accompanying picture in the e-mail. The winner
will be contacted by 20 November 2019 and the winning story will be featured in
the December 2019 issue of SA & BEYOND Travel magazine. T&C’s apply.
6
SA&BEYOND

KLOOFZICHT
LODGE & SPA
NESTLED at the foothills of the Zwartkops Mountains
in the Cradle of Humankind, Kloofzicht Lodge & Spa
is a mere forty minute drive from both Sandton and
Pretoria.
The sixty bedroom lodge overlooks six exquisite flyfishing
dams and the lower reaches of the Blaauwbank
Spruit, as it meanders through the unspoilt Zwartkops
gorge. Five-star hospitality and service are the
benchmarks of Kloofzicht Lodge & Spa. With a wealth
of experience in the hospitality and events arena, our
innovative team is able to create exceptional, wellmanaged
events.
The small but magnificent nature reserve is
home to kudu, impala, blue wildebeest, eland, red
hartebeest, springbuck, gemsbok, zebra, giraffe as
well as a fascinating array of bird life. Kloofzicht Lodge
- where tranquility & elegance originate.
www.kloofzicht.co.za
SA&BEYOND 7

Soul Traveller
Brett Shuttleworth:
Creating
a Ripple
Effect
of Love
Globally
Photos: Jarryd Hans Tiltma
TRAVEL became an intrinsic part of
Brett Shuttleworth’s lifestyle as a former
international rugby player and exsupermodel
who represented the most
prestigious couture houses such as Gucci,
Versace, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
Back then it was more about catching the wave of
success, than creating a ripple effect of love in people’s
lives, becoming at one point, the most marketable
celebrity in South Africa.
On the pinnacle of his success as a supermodel,
Shuttleworth was getting asked by agents to act in
Hollywood, seeing their profitability rise
through
his presence on the big screen.
This
led him to train as an actor and
make
the transition from New
York to
Los Angeles, and star as
himself in
the Blockbuster
American Pie
II.
Even after having
achieved fame, success and
being celebrated globally, Brett
was astounded that despite all his
external achievements, his soul was still not
smiling.
He walked away from the glitz and glamour of
Hollywood and went on a search for his true purpose,
on a spiritual journey to find out what life is really
about.
After his intense spiritual journey, from spending
time with world renowned religious and spiritual gurus,
and engaging deeply with consciousness, his answers
and purpose became crystal clear.
Like the Beatles, he had been drawn to a small town
nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, Rishikesh,
known for ashrams and gurus who had sat on the holy
banks of the Ganges River over generations, and said to
have found enlightenment.
Through the different approaches to life he had
found there, Brett along with a friend from Belgium,
had filmed
a documentary incapsulating
the
wisdom shared by the
world’s
top spiritual leaders.
This
included the likes of
Mooji,
considered today,
to be
one of the most
enlightened
masters
on the planet.
Brett had also
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SA&BEYOND

dedicated himself to studying Zen and Hojo, a Japanese
Martial Arts sword-fighting technique.
At the end of this quest, he returned to South Africa
to launch Brett Shuttleworth as a transformational
brand. Through a perfect blend of transformation and
hands-on inspiration tools, culminating in the wisdom
he found through his travels, he was on the path to
inspiring a whole new generation of leaders.
Brett quickly become known as the rockstar of
transformation, with clients such as Virgin Active,
Sanlam, Arcelor Mittal and Vodacom hiring his services
to inspire their most relevant teams and forefront
players.
Today Brett has the freedom to create the exact life
he wants to live, facilitating transformation for people
globally, and has made travel an essential part of his
lifestyle.
This includes the launch of the Smiling Soul
Retreats which are reaching people in a different way.
The intention behind each Retreat is to expose a choice
destination while integrating all of Brett’s teachings,
through local cultural experiences, adventure, fun and
travel. India was the launching pad for the Retreats and
thereafter was followed by Bali and now, retreats also
being hosted in South Africa.
Next projects include Incentive Programmes and
Customised Yatras (retreats on yachts) for professional
teams who want a personalised experience designed,
while having a great time.
As a visionary, Brett shares his wisdom with anyone
who is seeking enlightenment, peace, success and
optimal happy living, from the man on the street, to
corporate clients, sports teams and elite performers, to
individuals who work with him through the coaching
that he offers.
People often ask Brett how he changes someone’s
life and what he is pointing them towards.
“To me crossing the river from the outside world
to the inside world, is where and how you discover
your true self. It is a loving intelligence and intelligent
love that exists beyond the senses, beyond the mind
and body. We want to make the spiritual process
mainstream. Something beyond body and mind should
become a living experience for everyone in the world.”
“If I did not see evidence of my work changing
people’s lives, I wouldn’t do it, why would I want to?
I know for a fact that within each and every one of
us, there is this marvellous knowing: that we are
destined for greatness and the expression of our
highest selves to the world. It is a self that you
haven’t been trained to believe in; you’ve been
trained to believe in your ordinary awareness.
My mission is
to guide you back
to your source
of extraordinary
potential, thereby
creating a ripple
effect of love across the
globe.”
To book Brett Shuttleworth or join
one of his retreats email info@brettshuttleworth.com
or visit www.smilingsoulretreats.com
SA&BEYOND 9

SOUTH AFRICA
Thanda Safari
- a place of wilderness and wildlife
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Aerial Perspective
Photo: Christian Sperka Photography

DAWN JOGENSEN
TIME in the bush offers a welcome reprieve
from everyday life, a reconnect with nature
and an opportunity to be reminded of the
fragile cycle of nature, and the conservation
teams set in place to protect it. Which meant
that an invitation to spend a few nights at Thanda Safari
in Kwa Zulu Natal was hastily accepted.
Offering richly rewarding game drives, sundowners
overlooking the valleys and hills, bush walks and
tracking on foot - the 14,000-hectare wilderness reserve
is home to a range of animals, including cheetahs,
hyenas, giraffe, warthog and abundant bird and plant
life. Together with a strong community and conservation
commitment, Thanda is steeped in Zulu history with the
Mduna Royal Reserve, part owned by the Zulu King,
being part of the greater Thanda Private Game Reserve,
linking conservation, history and Zulu culture.
Thanda Safari Lodge Photo: Christian Sperka Photography
Elephants on Game Drive Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
(Below) Traditional Zulu dancers Photo: Christian Sperka
Photography
Thanda Safari Accommodation
Meaning ‘love’ in isiZulu, Thanda Safari offers three
different styles of accommodation.
Thanda Safari Lodge offers 9 suites circular in
structure and reminiscent of a traditional Zulu Rondavel
homestead, each with their own spacious lounge area
and master bedroom with double-sided fireplace,
bathroom complete with an oval shaped bath and indoor
and outdoor showers. They also feature an elevated sala
outdoor deck, heated plunge pool and private boma
for an intimate dining experience. Here you’ll find the
Thanda Spa with its two treatment rooms and range of
world-class treatments.
For a luxurious safari villa experience, Villa iZulu,
the private bush home of the owners is available on
an exclusive-use basis. Sleeping up to 10 in 5 suites,
it comprises a library, wine cellar, playroom, heated
swimming pool, Jacuzzi, an outdoor boma and has its
own helicopter pad. Fully serviced and with dedicated
staff, this magnificent villa is set within a beautiful, fully
SA&BEYOND 11

fenced garden ideal for younger guests to play safely.
Striking a balance between old and new, I stayed
at Thanda Tented Camp with its romantic ambience
reminiscent of a bygone era. Lit by paraffin lanterns, all
15 Hemingway-styled canvas tents have wooden decks,
whilst the Jabula Tent features a separate lounge, splash
pool and its own boma. The camp has a large rim-flow
pool, a waterhole sala from where to watch the animals
come in to drink and a boma for dining under the
African stars.
Game Viewing within the Reserve
Early morning and late afternoon game drives and bush
walks are offered as you seek out the reserve’s resident
wildlife. During my stay, my guide Buselaphi with tracker
Wyneth pointed out giraffe, nyala, zebra, wildebeest,
warthog, lion and elephant. On the bird front there were
African hoopoe, glossy starling, hornbill, woolly necked
stalks, brown snake eagle and European rollers, to name
but a few.
We spoke of tree species, the diverse varieties of grass
and the use of rubbing posts by rhino and elephants, as
well as the essential anti-poaching efforts required to
protect the more vulnerable species. At Thanda all rhino
is dehorned as an added precaution.
On the one game drive we spent time with a bigmaned
male lion who’s roar reverberated across the
reserve. There’s not much that resonates more with the
bush for me, than the sound of a lion’s roar. It comes
from the core and once released, echoes through the
plains. The intensity vibrating deep into the mind, and
soul.
Unique to Thanda Safari is their day ‘In the Path
of Wildlife’ program that allows guests to get involved
with game counts, fence checking and even assisting
with necessary veterinary procedures. Those who wish
to delve further into the Zulu culture will be invited by
their guide to see his village, spend time with a Sangoma
or join the school children at a ‘Star for Life’ school.
Owned by Swedish philanthropists Christin and Dan
Olofsson who obtained the land 17 years ago taking two
years to return it to wilderness before opening, Thanda
Safari has grown to employ over 200 staff members,
while reintroducing to the area all the wildlife that once
naturally occurred here.
While I was there, Wildlife Coordinator Mariana
Venter, who oversees game management on the
property had recently had an influx of funds put to good
use increasing the number of plains game in the reserve
and introducing some young cheetah to the land. I was
lucky enough to be there as the one female cheetah
was released into the reserve after her mandatory stay
acclimatising in the boma, taking her first tentative
steps into her new home. Today months later she thrives
in her adopted environment.
Thanda Safari offers considered accommodation and
warm hospitality, an authentic wildlife experience with
excellent game viewing and a sincere commitment to the
Zulu culture and conservation of the environment.
Here the creatures own the earth and lucky for us,
we’re free to visit them anytime we choose.
Thanda Tented Camp - Jabula Tent Interior
Dung Beetle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
King of the jungle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
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Thanda Tented Camp - Front view of Tents
The Essential Details
Contact Details: Connect with Thanda
Safari for rates and additional information
at reservations@thanda.co.za | Tel: +27
(0) 32 586 0149 | www.thandasafari.co.za
Location: Thanda Safari is situated
23km north of Hluhluwe on the N2
approximately 220km north of Durban
and is easily accessible from the N2 by
gravel road. Richards Bay is the closest
commercial airport, with King Shaka
International Airport, Durban being
the closest international airport. Road
transfers can be arranged on request.
In addition: Be sure to check packages
and special offers. SADC country residents
enjoy year-round reduced rates. Thanda
is five-star accredited and a Leading
Hotels of the World member. Children are
welcome.
Loving cheetahs Photo: Christian Sperka Photography
Thirsty water buffalo Photo: Christian Sperka Photography
SA&BEYOND 13

Photo: NadyaEugene/Shutterstock
The Multi-Generational
Holiday Trend
DAWN JORGENSEN
WITH the hectic pace of life and
demanding schedules making for
days packed with commitments as
we balance work and home life, it’s
no surprise that the travel industry
is seeing a rise in family focussed holidays. Not only
are parents wanting to spend relaxed quality time with
their children, but they’re also looking to share their
annual leave with the grandparents, maximising on
the value of time together and turning it into a multigenerational
bonding opportunity that compensates for
an otherwise hectically paced existence.
Off the grid safari itineraries are being requested
in a bid to put families back in touch with each other –
and the basics – and have the group sharing stories as
they gather around the dinner table or open fire each
evening, relating anecdotal accounts of both modernand
early-day travels.
Accommodations both in the city and in country
settings are designing and adding family rooms,
offering children’s programs and even having in-house
babysitters. It’s recommended that you check with your
tour operator the difference between ‘accepts children’
and ‘child friendly’ when making your booking. In fact,
exclusive home rental has been identified as one of the
top travel trends for 2019 by Conde Nast Traveller,
with families pooling together to rent homes away from
home for an extended period and adventuring from
there.
The age dynamic may mean that matching interests
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Photo: Yuganov Konstantin/Shutterstock
for all three groups can be challenging. You are
likely to find the parents out on adventures while the
grandparents hang out with the young grandchildren;
or relaxed time for the grandparents while the parents
and children head off on excursions. There’s something
for everybody though, from the rich culture found in
newly discovered cities, the hierarchy of nature, cultural
appreciation and the breaking down of barriers, both
within the family group and through the destinations
they visit.
Further fuelling this interest, Airbnb has launched
a selection of social impact experiences, a positive to
explore new communities by partaking in inspiring
activities that support local non-profit causes. Ideal
for families wanting to learn about wildlife or ocean
conservation, spend a few hours walking shelter dogs or
going trekking with a Masai guide. Incorporating the
practice and lesson of giving back as they go.
Whatever you opt for and wherever you’re next
headed, create opportunities for quality time with
your loved ones while building forever memories and
being reminded of what really matters. You’ll find it
adds wonder and depth to your holiday and is equally
rewarding for all.
Planning your family holiday?
Some Useful Tips
Let choosing your holiday destination be a
combined effort. Talk about the places and
options, and what you will do and see there. It
helps build the anticipation once the decision
is made and the countdown to departure
begins.
Look at maps, blog posts and guidebooks
together to help all three generations
understand where you will be travelling to
in relation to home, activities on offer and
accommodation choices.
Encourage learning about the people and
culture that you’ll be exposed to, as well as
how to say, ‘thank you’ and ‘please’ in the
language of the destination that you will visit.
It goes a long way.
Support the ‘why’. We know that travel brings
many lessons and the sooner children are open to
these benefits, the better. Let them ask how far,
how long, names of attractions and the people they
will meet each day.
Give children and grandparents cameras – or
phones – and encourage them to take photos
of whatever interests them, whether it be the
architecture, cars, food, animals or scenery – and
especially each other. At the end of the trip, get
together over a meal and let each photographer
share what they found most interesting. There is no
age limit to this method of storytelling. Printing a
photo book of the best of them makes a wonderful
keepsake.
Write a journal, share anecdotes over dinner at
the end of each day, learn new things, be open and
respectful to those who will host you – and each
other, and you’ll find the greatest gift of all will be
the conversations and quality time with each other.
SA&BEYOND 15

MOROCCO
MARRAKECH
Exploring Morocco’s Pink City
DAWN JORGENSEN
Souk dried spices Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
COLOURFUL, vibrant and mystical, the
very word Marrakech conjures up images
of a flaming desert city; an exotic place
of sensory overload with alluring sights,
sounds, and flavours.
One of Morocco’s oldest and most captivating
cities, the former Imperial metropolis is today a major
economic hub that has successfully maintained its Old-
World charm.
Fondly referred to as the ‘pink or red city’ due to its
buildings – old and new – that have been constructed
using red earth found in the surrounding hills. The
shade of pink is somehow never too light or too solid,
rather soft when the sun doesn’t shine, and invitingly
warm in direct sunlight.
At the heart of Marrakech is the walled medieval
medina that dates back to the Berber Empire. Allow
yourself to get lost in its maze-like alleys with its heady
aromas and many market stores. Here you will find
amazing deals on finely-crafted leather sandals and
bags plus brightly-coloured baskets, spices, brass-
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Sunset over the Souks of Marrakech Morocco Photo: iStock (Below) Koutoubia Mosque tower Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
ware and glassware. Remember to brush up on your
bargaining techniques. Shop for handwoven rugs,
painted ceramics bowls, stain glass lamps, envyinducing
tiles and ‘Fatima Hands’ in every shade of
good luck.
Savour the sounds of traditional drums on the
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square and hear the muezzin’s call to
prayer at the many mosques. Watch skilled
craftsmen at work in the Souks and take a
guide to introduce to you the school, mosque,
bakery and fountains of the inner medina
communities. A journey into the city takes
you back in time as you scout its numerous
alleys, always guided by the ochre red walls
that will lead you home.
Visit ‘La Maison de la
Photographie’ House of Photography
in Jamaa Lfna, a fascinating archive
of photographs of Morocco taken by
anonymous travellers and famous
photographers between 1870 and
1960. The House of Photography
opened in 2009 and offers
charming insight into the evolution
of the ochre city, going up to the
roof is a must.
Walk the Avenue Mohammed
V, Marrakech’s high street, with
its luxury stores, hotels and
restaurants. Enjoy endless cups
of sweet mint tea and pause for
a refreshing freshly squeezed
orange juice from one of the many
vendors.
A symbol of the city is the
Moorish minaret of 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque.
Easily visible given a local ordinance that forbids any
other building in the Medina to be taller than a palm
tree, leaving the Koutoubia Mosque towering over
the city. Know that non-muslims may not enter the
mosque, however you are welcome to walk around the
exterior and enjoy the Koutoubia gardens.
Possibly one of the most visited sites in the city and
the place to fall in love with true Majorelle blue, is
the Jardin Marjorelle. A two-and-a-half-acre
artist’s landscape garden in Marrakech that
was created by the French Orientalist artist,
Jacques Majorelle over a period of forty years.
Acquired by him in 1923, it features a Cubist
villa that was designed by the French
architect, Paul Sinoir in the 1930s.
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre
Bergé went on to buy the Jardin
Majorelle in 1980, saving it from
falling victim to a real estate project
and becoming a hotel complex.
They decided to live in the Villa
Bou Saf Saf, which they renamed
Villa Oasis, and undertook the
restoration of the garden in order
to ‘make the Jardin Majorelle
become the most beautiful garden
– by respecting the vision of
Jacques Majorelle.’
Next to it is the impressive
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Marrakech, which houses many
of his designs, accessories,
sketches and a collection of
photos during his long and
SA&BEYOND 17

those looking to leave behind their reality and escape to
the delight that is this seductive city.
Food Stall on Jemaa el-Fnaa Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
Djem al Fnaa Square Photo: jemaa-el-fna.com
More of Magical Morocco
One of North Africa’s most popular destinations
and famous for its bustling cities, incredible history
and pristine desert landscapes, there is something in
Morocco for everybody with its four imperial cities
namely Marrakesh, Fes, Meknes, and Rabat, the
country’s capital. Although a modern city, Rabat has
several interesting historical attractions such as the
Kasbah of the Udayas, the Hassan Tower and gleaming
Royal Mausoleum.
Casablanca boasts The Hassan II Mosque, the
largest mosque in Africa and the 5th largest in the
world, which can accommodate as many as 25 000
people. A visit to the port city would not be complete
without a meal at Rick’s Café, made famous by the
classic namesake film starring Humphrey Bogart and
Ingrid Bergman.
Morocco’s Atlas Mountains beckon escape and
discovery with their ancient Berber villages and
popular walking routes, while the vast and arid Sahara
Desert, the world’s largest hot desert can be accessed
from several places in Morocco. For the beach lover,
Morocco borders both the Mediterranean Sea and
the Atlantic Ocean, with Tangier and Agadir popular
coastal destinations, and smaller Essaouira and
Taghazout drawing avid surfers each year.
Chefchaouen in northwest Morocco, is arguably
the most photographed place in the Kingdom, known
for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town
where leather and weaving workshops line its steep
cobbled lanes.
18
Berber Village Photo: mountains-adventure.com
inspired career, as well as his connection with this city
he understandably, so loved.
Enjoy a sunset from a Marrakechi rooftop
overlooking Djem al Fnaa Square. These rooftop bars
serve mocktails and mint tea, moreish mezze platters
and delicious tajine dishes. On the outskirts of the city,
marked by the outline of the Atlas Mountains, discover
Berber villages, occasional street art and numerous
ways to relax into an otherwise busy day.
A city of romance, mysticism, theatricals and
royalty, Marrakesh lends a rose-tinted view to the world
and is the ideal destination for adventure seekers and
SA&BEYOND
The Essential Details for booking
your visit to Marrakech
Getting there: The Marrakech Menara
Airport services a multitude of airlines.
From South Africa consider an easy connect
via Europe, or a stopover in Casablanca,
which is serviced by Qatar Airlines, SAA and
Emirates. Internally Royal Air Maroc, the
National carrier, is an excellent option.
Accommodation: Rivalling for top spot are
the Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech and
Hotel La Mamounia. For a more traditional
style of accommodation book into one of the
charming Riads found in the heart of the
Medina or consider an Airbnb apartment –
some have rooftop terraces.
Visas: South African Passport holders
require a visa to visit Morocco.
Language: The official languages are Arabic
and Berber, English is widely spoken in
Marrakech.
Don’t miss: Sweet mint tea, locally known
as Maghrebi mint tea, available throughout
the city.

@branzed87
SA&BEYOND 19

Artisanal
food
markets
a hot item
in Nelson
Mandela
Bay
PORT Elizabeth residents and visitors are
spoilt for choice when it comes to artisanal
food markets that provide an interactive,
creative platform for them to socialise and try
some new and interesting food.
With markets rapidly growing in Nelson Mandela
Bay in the last five years, people have an array of
options to choose from that should suit their individual
tastebuds and support locally made products.
Bay economic development executive director
Anele Qaba said on Sunday that the markets in
the city provided a platform not only for smaller
businesses, but also for buying local products which
created opportunities for more jobs and economic
opportunities.
“Markets are becoming increasingly popular in
Nelson Mandela Bay with more and more people
finding value in buying local,” Qaba said.
“The Bay’s markets cover various niches, tastes, and
products – so mark your calendar,” he said.
Some of the different markets found in the city include:
ART IN THE PARK – Port Elizabeth’s oldest market
is held on the last Sunday of every month. Stalls include
art, craft, food, plants, toys, collectibles and bric-a-brac.
The market takes place at St George’s Park from 9am to
2pm and entry is free.
LOCALLY YOURS MARKET – All about products
that are handmade, grown, crafted, cooked, baked
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and designed right here in the Eastern Cape by local
entrepreneurs who invite residents to #supportlocal
and #livelocal.
Entrance is free in lieu of an optional donation
to the Animal Anti-Cruelty League. It is held at the
Tramways Building from 9am to 3pm on the first
Saturday of the month.
THE GOOD NIGHT MARKET – A monthly gathering
at the Tramways Building of the metro’s top artisanal
food vendors, which is open to the public on the last
Thursday night of the month. Live music acts perform
on selected evenings. Entry is R20 and the event is
from 5pm to 9pm
KINGS BEACH FLEA MARKET – The ideal spot for
an enjoyable outing with the family every Sunday.
Vendors sell goods ranging from books and art to
toys and African curios at the beachfront, from early
morning to late afternoon.
THE RESECOND MARKET – An upmarket secondhand
market that focuses on recycled and reused items
but also exhibits local crafts and street food stalls.
The market aims to create awareness around going
green, being environmentally friendly and sustainable
living on the last Sunday of every month at the Walmer
Town Hall from 9am to 2pm.
BACK TO EARTH NIGHT MARKET – At the Old
Grey Sports Club, this market has stalls selling natural,
hand-made clothing, gifts, jewellery, deli food and fresh
produce as well as indigenous trees from 4pm-8pm.
WINDSONG BOHEMIAN MARKET – A quarterly,
seasonal niche that does not allow any massproduced
products. Everything must be handmade, homegrown
or recycled into something new, quirky and unusual.
The market takes place at 142 Villiers Road in Walmer.
SARDS MARKET IN THE PARK – Also called the
Bark Park Market, this market features vendors with
homemade items, homegrown goods, fresh food, food
trucks, arts and crafts, and gifts. There is also live
music, jumping castles and other activities. The market
takes place on the third or fourth Saturday of the
month at the Sardinia Bay Valley Sards Bark Park from
9am-1pm.
LADY SLIPPER FARMERS MARKET – The
Greenbushes-based event boasts freshly made food,
affordable custom clothes, live music and a play area for
kids while parents shop away. The market takes place
at the NG Kerk Vanstandensrivier grounds from 9am-
1pm in winter and opens in summer from 8am-12pm
THE UITENHAGE MARKET – More than 150 stalls,
live music, children’s entertainment and a variety of
food make for an enjoyable family outing every first
Sunday of the month at Willow Dam from 9am-3pm.
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INDIA
A Coastal
Adventure:
Mahé opens
its doors in
Goa - India
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ANJUNA, once a sleepy coastal village
popularized by the hippie movement, is
now turning into a hub for varied food
and beverage experiences. At Mahé, find
yourself floating in a warm, inviting new
space that modernizes the coastal culinary experience.
Mahé, a collaboration between Parth Timbadia
and Chef Sandeep Sreedharan, brings together
contemporary nuances and familiar food to pay a
stunning tribute to the vast Indian coastline.
Located in Anjuna, Mahé celebrates Chef Sandeep’s
childhood culinary experiences in the picturesque
town, formerly a French Territory. Coupled with his
travel experiences and Parth Timbadia’s two-decadelong
expertise in the hospitality sector, their vision
at Mahé brings together the best of the coast in a
carefully updated century-old Portuguese house for the
perfect dining experience. “It’s all about a confluence
of ingredients and techniques used in the area to bring
out simple rustic dishes in a way they have not been
introduced before,” say the partners about the venture.
Designed by the award-winning team at OCD
– Office of Cognitive Design, the space plays with
modern thematic contrasts while keeping traces of
the 19th Century Indo-Portuguese splendour intact.
The main house offers two different spaces – the
Blush (bar) & Jade (dining) rooms with light, breezy
elements that create an intimate dining experience
along with statement bars. Guests can also enjoy an
al-fresco dining experience in a large garden space
that brings out the quintessential Goa experience with
white pebbles and lush, varied foliage. The inherently
voluminous characteristic and painstakingly restored
portion of the home lend the place a nostalgic, warm
vibe. In addition, minimalist French pastel highlights,
Scandinavian inspired details and modern Indian
digital art bring out a fresh, modern lightness.
Reflecting the same philosophy of familiarity
together with contemporary lightness, the food
celebrates the fresh, seasonal produce, classic favorites,
and easy plating. Ease into the Mahé experience with a
range of Small Plates – stuffed morels with street style
potato jus, confit yam with cherry tomatoes, pickled
mussels in EV coconut oil, steamed fish, red snapper
ceviche, chorizo with a poached egg or slow cooked
mackerel with fresh plums among others. Or opt for
specialities straight off the grill where you pair your
seafood – fish, prawns, lobster, & squid and vegetarian
options – paneer, mushroom, baby corn & tapioca with
region-specific sauces from the West Coast, East Coast
and Sri Lanka.
Glorifying refined regional flavours, the Large
Plates at Mahé create a captivating experience. Take
a trip with the slow cooked lamb with tapioca mash
& consommé and the fish with moilee foam. Or enjoy
classic favourites that include chicken chettinad, green
Previous page clockwise: Crispy Okra with Pickles; Ossified
Mrs Grundy; Mahe Goa; Preserved Aubergine Rechaedo with
poie
Chef Sandeep Sreedharan
Parth Timbadia
moong curry, fish pulimulagu and Mahé prawn curry
with dosas, string hoppers, appams or rice.
A coastal experience is incomplete without a
complementing Bar Program that captures the essence
of the location. Little details like creating clear ice
blocks and perfecting an in-house vermouth elevate
the Mahé cocktail experience. Signature regional
favourites express and pay homage to the terroir of the
land and include drinks like Negroni de Goa where
chiretta leaves are infused into Campari and served
along with cashew feni and house-made vermouth,
Mahua Spritz, Kokum Shrub made with coconut feni,
artisanal coconut vinegar and kokum and the Mallu
Mai Tai made with chilli spiced rum, house velvet
SA&BEYOND 23

Gimlet
falernum, Malabar tamarind tincture, orgeat, fresh
lime and pineapple. The creator of the bar program
at Mahé, Abhishek George also brings in a selection
from The Spiffy Dapper – his cocktail bar in Singapore.
Experience options like Sheikh on the Level – black tea
gin, cardamom, fresh lemon, brown sugar & egg whites,
Glad Rags Sheela made with straight bourbon, apple &
cinnamon and Ossified Mrs Grundy – a mix of cherry
tomato vodka, house spiced bitters & fresh lemon.
If you’re going down the classic route, everything
from The Old Fashioned and The Manhattan to the
Gimlet and Margarita is made with love and attentive
little touches like the in-house lemon juice created
from a proprietary blend of indigenous citrus fruits.
Best enjoyed with curated bar bites that include Crispy
Okra, Tapioca Bravas, Kerala Beef Fry and Crispy Fried
Sardines, the bar experience at Mahé is sure to bring in
waves of contentment.
Flavours from the coast have come calling and the
best way to experience them is to do so at a place where
the joy flows from the kitchen right onto each and every
plate. Let the inherent beauty of Goa and the magic of
a coastal culinary experience take over as you go the
Mahé way.
Timings: 11:30 am to 3:30 pm and Dinner: 6:30 pm to
11:30 pm
Contact No.: +91 97658 74858
Address: House 1111, Anjuna Arpora Road, Mazal
Waddo, Anjuna, Goa
Facebook & Instagram Handle: @mahegoa
Slow cooked Mackerel with Plums
Kerela Beef Fry
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www.africanextracts.gr
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Northern Cape

Explore the Routes
www.africanextracts.gr
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Northern Cape - South Africa
EXTRAORDINARY HOLIDAY EXPERIENCES FOR ALL!
AN AGELESS LAND, where countless generations of desert people have left their collective footprint. Endless skies, amber dune-scapes, and a
Great River, all set within a landscape brimming with dramatic beauty. And people so real, you will feel the vibration of Mother Nature when they
shake your hand. This is the Northern Cape – REAL CULTURE, REAL PEOPLE AND REAL NATURE. Now come and experience it for yourselves and
make memories to last a lifetime.
FIVE MUST DO REASONS TO CHOOSE THE NORTHERN CAPE AS YOUR NEXT SOUTHERN AFRICAN HOLIDAY DESTINATION:
REWARDING
CULTURAL
ADVENTURES
ADVENTURE
EXPERIENCES OFF
THE BEATEN TRACK
FAMILY
ADVENTURE
EXPERIENCES
NATURAL BEAUTY
AND WILDLIFE
ADVENTURE
EXPERIENCES
A FLORAL
EXPERIENCE
The distinct cultural groups that
make up the Northern Cape are as
rich as the country’s history. Unlock
the secrets of the African bush in
the company of the oldest human
inhabitants of the region, the
‡Khomani San near the Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park. Swim in the hot
pools of Riemvasmaak, discover
the ancient wisdom of the Nama of
the Richtersveld, a world heritage
site. Explore living villages, shop at
craft markets, indulge in regional
authentic cuisine at local eateries
and be transported to the world
of our ancestors through campfire
storytelling and dancing. It’s the best
way to experience the heartbeat of
the province and to take some of the
soul of the Northern Cape with you
on your return journey home.
For the active, it’s an ideal
environment for exploration and
adventure. We have an awe-inspiring
setting for any enthusiast. Whether
you are stargazing in Sutherland,
hunting for fossils in the Karoo or
searching for San rock art deep in
the caves of the Diamond Fields,
experiencing the world’s richest
floral offering in Namakwa, camping
deep in the bush surrounded by
wildlife and the famed blackmaned
lion of the Green Kalahari, or
Kayaking down the mighty Orange
River, the Northern Cape is more
than an adventure, it’s an enriching
life experience.
The Northern Cape has always been
a family- friendly destination. Its
mix of culture, adventure, wildlife
and wide accommodation choices,
offers family fun that is both
entertaining and educational. The
province is home to six national
parks and two of the country’s
largest rivers, which makes it
perfect for fun activities the entire
family can enjoy. These include
game safaris, bird watching and
leisure hikes and walks to safaris,
museum visits and archaeological
discoveries to disconnect reconnect
and rediscover!
The Northern Cape is arguably
South Africa’s most beautiful and
naturally real province. Visitors are
hard-pressed to choose between
our UNESCO Richtersveld World
Heritage Site and two Transfrontier
Parks, the Kgalagadi and the |Ai-
|Ais Richtersveld with its red and
golden sand dunes. Share the
intimate bush knowledge of a Nama
or San Bushmen guide/tracker. The
Northern Cape’s natural beauty is
enhanced by it’s an iconic wildlife.
From the small five to the big five,
watching wild animals at dose range
is something truly unforgettable.
There are walking, horseback, 4x4,
little five and many more safaris to
incorporate in your trip in one of
the 6 provincial reserves or any of
the other four national parks and
transfrontier parks.
Each spring, the dormant and arid
winter plains of the Northern Cape’s
Namakwa region are transformed
into a kaleidoscope of color with
the arrival of the flower season. The
wild flowers of the Namakwa are
definitely a natural phenomenon
and best discovered on foot, which
makes it ultimately appealing to
hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.
As the only arid hotspot in the world
this region contains more than 6 000
plant species, 250 species of birds,
78 species of mammals, 132 species
of reptiles and amphibians and an
unknown number of insects, making
it the world’s most diverse, arid
environment. This floral diversity
has also made the Namakwa the
richest bulb flora arid region in the
world. Best times to visit is end July
to early October. A dedicated hotline
in operation from 1 August to 30
September will provide insights to
flower hotspots and flower sighting
updates, call the flower hotline on
+27 (0)79 294 7260
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Explore the Routes
MEMORIES THAT WILL STAY WITH YOU FOREVER.
SPECIFICALLY PACKAGED to give the visitor an easy do-it-yourself option to explore the province. Incredible year-round experiences coupled with
warm hospitality, the peace and tranquility offered by off-the-beaten track towns and villages as well as uninterrupted spaces, allow visitors to
recharge and reconnect with loved ones.
CAPE TO NAMIBIA ROUTE
The route meanders away from the N7
and include small towns such as Garies,
Kamieskroon, Springbok, Okiep, Steinkopf and
Vioolsdrift. Each with its own local flavour and
a story to tell. The N7 highway stretches from
Cape Town all the way through the Northern
Cape before heading into neighboring country
Namibia. Crossing from the Western Cape into
the Northern Cape, visitors will encounter
towns which capture the Nama heritage of
the province. Slow down and appreciate the
unique stories of the people of the Northern
Cape. During spring time, this route takes
visitors into the core of the floral kaleidoscope
that is the Namakwa floral season.
Contact: +27 (0) 53 833 1434
marketing@experiencenortherncape.com
GO GHAAP ROUTE
The Northern Cape has a fascinating new
heritage route, covering everything from
famous archaeological sites, historic towns,
amazing architecture and excellent selection
of nature and game reserves. Visitors will be
drawn to fascinating historical and geological
sites in and around towns such as Postmasburg,
Griquatown, Campbell, Olifantshoek, Dibeng,
Kathu, Danielskuil and Kuruman. Wonderwerk
Caves between Kuruman and Danielskuil. The
Khoisan history in Wildebeest Kuil near Barkly
West. Kuruman Eye in Kuruman is a natural
spring delivering about 20-million litres of
clean, clear water daily to Kuruman. Donkey
cart ride, great food, and unhurried wining and
dining are still a reality at DoringDraad Deben
Kontrei. The historical Moffat Mission station
in Kuruman. The grave of early-1800s Griqua
leader Andries Waterboer, with two cannons
that were gifts from Queen Victoria guarding
his final resting place. Mary Moffat Museum in
Griquatown. Witsand Nature Reserve between
Postmasburg and Kuruman.
Contact: +27 (0)83 274 5461
karoo@intekom.co.za
KALAHARI RED DUNE ROUTE
Discover the essence of the province in the
heart of the Kalahari. Golden dunes, wide-open
skies and flat-topped acacia trees epitomise
the Kalahari Red Dune Route. Stretching from
Upington right to the Namibian border, visitors
traverse the villages of Ashkam, Groot and
Klein Mier and Rietfontein. Adventure-loving
families and adrenaline seekers can enjoy
dune hikes at dawn, eagle- owl encounters,
sand duning and surfing in the red sand,
close encounters with meerkats and guided
walks with the !Khomani San to rediscover the
ancient wisdom, customs and folklore of this
ancient tribe.
Contact: +27 (0)82 492 3469
lochmaree@absamail.co.za
KAROO HIGHLANDS ROUTE
This route covers the southern part of
the province and the small Karoo towns
of Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia, Williston,
Sutherland, Fraserburg, Carnarvon, Loxton
and Victoria West and forms the heart of the
Great Karoo. Enjoy the peace and tranquillity
of the Karoo with its wide open plains dotted
with koppies (hills).
The area was named by the Khoi and San
people, who left their legacy as art on the rocks.
Explore many unique experiences such as
stargazing at the world’s largest astronomical
observatory at Sutherland, the SKA radio
telescopes in Carnarvon, Karoo architecture
and corbelled houses, Anglo-Boer War sites,
rock art, ancient Palaeo Surfaces, farm stays
and great Karoo cuisine and hospitality.
Contact: +27 (0) 72 018 7288,
pieter.naude@hotmail.com
KAROO OASIS ROUTE
The route traverse through the towns of
the Northern Cape along the N12 including
Warrenton, Kimberley, Hopetown, Britstown
and Victoria West. It is a perfect stopover
for travellers between Johannesburg and
Cape Town. Guests can stop at various towns
for an exciting number of leisure activities
and accommodation facilities. There are a
variety of food stalls that travellers can enjoy
and stock up on, such as home-made rusks,
ginger beer to quench your thirst and a taste
of local food. Experiences includes Anglo-Boer
War Blockhouses, Historical Walks, Dronfield
Nature Reserve, Ghost Trail Tour, McGregor
Museum, Sol Plaatje Museum, Galeshewe
Township tour, The Big Hole and a Tram Ride
tour, William Humphrey Art Gallery, Wildebeest
Kuil Rock Art Centre, Mokala National Park,
Hopetown Concentration Camp, Game Safaris,
and River Rafting.
Contact: +27 (0)53 833 1434
marketing@experiencenortherncape.com
NAMAQUA COASTAL ROUTE
The route includes hidden gems like Garies,
Kamieskroon, Hondeklip Bay, Koiingnaas and
Kleinzee. Dozens of adventure and leisure
options are available, including the Namaqua
National Park, nature reserves, hidden coastal
hamlets and some of the most remote hiking
and 4x4 trails imaginable. Go succulent
sleuthing with a botanical guide, hike the
Springbok Klipkoppie for a dose of Anglo-
Boer War history, enjoy stargazing, explore
the countless shipwrecks along the coast line
or visit Namastat, a traditional matjies-hut
village. Breath-taking scenes of the Atlantic
Ocean with sightings of dolphins and whales
combined with great vistas of mountains and
veld with endemic wildlife makes travelling in
this area remarkable.
Contact: +27 (0)27 877 0028
email: coast.of.diamonds@gmail.com
RICHTERSVELD ROUTE
The Richtersveld is South Africa’s only
mountain desert and the route travels along
rugged gravel roads to quaint towns such as
Eksteensfontein, Sendelingsdrift, Lekkersing,
Kuboes and Sandrift. The more challenging 4x4
routes in the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier
Park or in the Richtersveld World Heritage Area
are best explored in a well-equipped SUV or
bakkie. Pack comfortable hiking boots, extra
water and guidebooks and set out along the
600 km Namaqua Eco 4x4 Route. The Orange
River presents a more leisurely pace with river
rafting and the best wilderness fly-fishing in
South Africa, while the entire Richtersveld
is a mountain biker’s dream. Follow in the
footsteps of a traditional goat herder and
learn about the lives of the nomads. In the
villages, the locals will entertain guests with
storytelling and traditional Nama step dancing
upon request.
Contact +27 (0)78 874 1515
bokka.diepotlepel@gmail.com
QUIVER TREE ROUTE
Named after the indigenous quiver tree, the
Kokerboom Food and Wine Route stretches
along the Gariep and includes towns like
Upington, Kakamas, Keimoes, Augrabies,
Marchand, Kanoneiland, Kenhardt and
Riemvasmaak. The route will appeal to
families as well as adventure and adrenaline
seekers. Highlights include Augrabies Falls,
Riemvasmaak hot springs, river rafting, fly
fishing, kayaking and river cruises on the
Orange River, numerous 4x4, hiking and MTB
trails as well as excellent bird watching.
Foodies will appreciate the typical Northern
Cape fare and produce available from coffee
shops, road stalls and restaurants as well
as wine tasting at cellars along the route.
Accommodation ranges from luxurious
guesthouses to farm and community stayovers.
Contact: +27 (0)84 244 4408
bookings@kokerboomroute.co.za
NorthernCapeTourism
northerncapetourism
@NorthernCapeSA
northerncapetourism
SA&BEYOND 31

@branzed87
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PORTUGAL
Living Like A
Local In Lisbon,
Portugal
– a city of cobbled roads
and colourful tram rides
SA&BEYOND 33

DAWN JORGENSEN
A
place of allure with its unique charm,
symmetrically laid Portuguese pavements,
brightly painted buildings and viewpoints
that reveal layer upon layer of terracotta
rooftops intermixed with tall church
steeples, you can lose your heart to this European
city that effortlessly blends traditional heritage with
modern design and progressive thinking.
Portugal’s hilly, coastal capital city sits on the
Tagus River with the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension
bridge linking its banks. Its beauty takes on all shades
of wonder, intrigue, architecture and history and it is
famed for its many viewpoints, the most impressive
being from São Jorge Castle.
Sunseekers in a restaraunt, LX Factory Photo: Dawn
Jorgensen (Below) Praça do Município Photo: finduslost.com
(Above) Tiled houses around Barrio Alto in Lisbon and old
school trams in the Almafa district Photo: finduslost.com
(Opposite page) Walking the Bica Funicular Tram Street
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
Long drawn to see the city, I recently bought an air
ticket, booked an apartment and spent a month living
like a local in the historic Alfama district, and once
familiar, in more residential Santos. Arriving with no
plans other than to immerse myself into local living,
that is exactly what I did.
Among the attractions discovered were the National
Azulejo Museum displaying five centuries of decorative
ceramic tiles. In trendy Belem, the Museum of Art,
Architecture and Technology (MAAT) is where these
three areas intertwine within a space of debate and
dialogue. I took time to listen to Fado music and
learn more about its origins, visited the Museu do
Aljube that showcases Portugal under dictatorship
and the country’s subsequent struggle for freedom and
democracy, spent time in the impressive Maritime
Museum and lingered in art galleries.
From the imposing São Jorge Castle – which is
worth walking up to – the view encompasses the old
city’s pastel-coloured buildings and Tagus Estuary. Be
sure to take a trip across the river to see the Cristo Rei
statue – you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Rio
– as well as a closer look at residential Almada.
Just outside Lisbon you’ll find a string of Atlantic
beaches, from Cascais to Estoril and further inland the
charming royal sanctuary resort town on the foothills of
Portugal’s Sintra Mountains, Sintra.
I spent much time at the LX Factory, a regenerated
creative island that is home to fashion, food, fine arts,
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25 de Abril Suspension Bridge
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
One of the best rooftop views in Lisbon at Portas do Sol
(Right) A delicious and colorful brunch at Dear Breakfast
Photos: finduslost.com
music, and one of the best bookshops I’ve ever seen.
I walked for hours to familiarise myself with the lay
of the land seeking out the best examples of alcada
portuguesa pavements and photographing street art.
I lingered in restaurants and cafes, shopped at local
markets and ate more pasteis de nata than I care to
admit to.
Views across the city from the top of Elevador de
Santa Justa in the heart of the city are unbeatable.
On the popular Praça do Comércio you’ll find the
iconic Rua Augusta Arch, a historical building and
visitor attraction built to commemorate the city’s
reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. Built to
resemble the shape of a caravel, the massive, the
angular Monument to the Discoveries is a prominent
feature of the Belem waterfront well worth seeing.
I’m already planning my return trip for more, and
could quite easily join the half a million lucky ones
who get to call Lisboa home. This is a city to live in, no
matter the length of your stay, make it your home for
those days and pretend you’re a local soaking up the
old-fashioned laidback of this inviting European city.
The Essential Details for
booking your visit to Lisbon
Getting there: There may not be direct flights
to Lisbon from South Africa, but that shouldn’t
deter as many European airlines service the
Lisbon Airport, and you can get there from
Cape Town or Johannesburg with just one
connection. Alternately, the very affordable
TAAG Angola Airlines offers easy access via
Luanda.
Visas: South African passport holders require a
Schengen Visa to visit Portugal.
Accommodation: A wide variety of
accommodation options exist, be it for a luxury
hotel, or Airbnb apartment. The best areas to
base yourself are historic Alfama, Rossio in the
heart of the city, Baixa for shopping and the
charming Bairro Alto.
Don’t miss: Arguably the best pastéis de nata
in the city can be found at the small bustling
Manteigaria, Time Out Market Lisboa.
SA&BEYOND 35

48 Hours in Porto:
An Emirates Guide
PORTO is a vibrant coastal city in northwest
Portugal situated along the Douro River.
World famous for its Port wine production and
historical city centre, the must-see destination
is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site that
offers a rich cultural legacy and a variety of tourist
attractions. The genuine hospitality of the local people
is another reason to visit, especially for South Africans
who have had a taste of a well-integrated and highly
active Portuguese community back home.
Travelling to different parts of Portugal for leisure,
business, and visiting family and relatives, Portuguese
South Africans are no stranger to the country, with
Johannesburg identified as a feeder market for Porto.
From 2 July 2019, Emirates will launch a four times
weekly service between Portugal’s second largest city,
Porto, and Dubai – offering this community added
services and better connectivity.
So, for first-time visitors looking to experience the
best Porto has to offer, we’ve got a two-day itinerary
showcasing its top activities courtesy of Emirates:
DAY ONE:
Drink and be merry
A visit to one of Porto’s Port Wine Cellars is a must.
You’re spoilt for choice with just how many there are
available, but one thing’s for sure – your taste buds
are in for a treat either way. Espaço Porto Cruz is a
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generations of the city’s residents are buried in its
catacombs. If ancient architecture is your thing, you’ll
also enjoy the ‘Medieval Walls’, which were built during
the reign of King Fernando and exhibit breath-taking
views of Ribeira and the surrounding areas. The famous
Livraria Lello bookshop is another must-see for its
stunning architecture, which is said to have inspired
author J.K. Rowling’s depictions of Harry Potter’s
Hogwarts.
Porto Boardwalk. (Below) Dom Luís I Bridge
(Previous page) Sunset in Porto Photos: Unsplash
fan favourite because, besides sampling world-famous
Ports, there’s also chocolate and cheese tastings on
offer and a gorgeous terrace to enjoy the view of the city
while you’re at it.
Neighbourhood strolls
Spend the evening walking through the riverside
neighbourhoods of Ribeira and Miragaia. The narrow,
cobbled streets are lined with bars, night clubs and
eateries serving some of Portugal’s most authentic
dishes. For the shopping enthusiasts – 43 Branco is
a haven for Portuguese crafts, fashion and interior
design, a new concept store that’s quickly gaining
popularity among both local and international tourists.
Traditional tunes
Visit Calem Port House for its 6 pm English tour,
which culminates in a 30-minute Fado show. Fado is a
traditional Portuguese style of music. For more music
and a night to remember, make your way to the Hard
Club located in a renovated former marketplace. The
DJs here play everything from hip-hop and rap to metal
and alternative music.
Flavours of Porto
Porto boasts some of the world’s best eateries with
dishes that revolve mainly around fresh sea produce
and delectable local meats. With restaurants aplenty,
and only two days to try it all – food tours are the way
to go. With plenty to choose from, each promise to
expose you to the real flavours of Porto as you eat your
way through the city, privately guided by a friendly
local and expert in the best authentic dishes to try.
Porto will become Emirates’ second destination in
Portugal after its capital, Lisbon. The flight between
Dubai and Porto, operated by a Boeing 777-300ER
aircraft, will be available four times a week with a
schedule that enables South African travellers to easily
and conveniently connect Emirates’ flights from Dubai
International Airport to other popular destinations.
The Dubai to Porto route will operate on Tuesdays,
Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Emirates flight EK
197 will depart Dubai at 9:15 am and arrive in Porto
at 14:30 pm local time. The return flight, EK 198, will
depart Porto 17:35 pm and arrive in Dubai at 4:15 am
the next morning.
In South Africa, two of the four daily Emirates
flights to Johannesburg are served by the iconic Airbus
A380 to cater to the growing demand for the airline’s
successful, customer-orientated experience. Emirates
also operates two daily flights to Cape Town and a
daily flight to Durban using Boeing 777s. To book, or
for more information and terms and conditions, please
visit https://www.emirates.com/za/english/ or visit the
local Emirates office or your travel agent.
Fly Better with Emirates.
DAY TWO:
Creative spirit
Dubbed the Arts Block – Rua Miguel Bombarda is
known for its dynamic artwork mostly done by the
owners of the art galleries dotted throughout the
area. Every two months, Bombarda comes alive with
contemporary art displays that beautifully represent a
culture-packed city. Entry into the art galleries is free.
Adventure time
Take a tour of the last Gothic monument built in
Porto, the opulent Church of São Francisco, where
SA&BEYOND 37

Rishikesh, India
The Beatles, meditation and a
spiritual retreat on the
banks of the holy
Ganges River
38
The Ganges river or goddess Ganga that the river is named after is considered to be
the purest and most sacred river in India Photo: Pinterest
SA&BEYOND

The Beatles Ashram Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
DAWN JORGENSEN
IT was the month I was born, February ‘68, that
The Beatles travelled to Rishikesh in northern
India to take part in an advanced Transcendental
Meditation training course at the ashram of the
Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, a Hindu Guru who’s
seductive anti-establishment stance drew the group
to visit at a time when they were questioning their
existence.
They were joined by singers Donovan and the
Beach Boys’ Mike Love, as well as actress Mia Farrow
while their – with the visit receiving widespread media
attention. The stayed between three and ten weeks,
meditating, playing music, and reportedly writing
as many as 30 songs, including most of those on the
“White Album”. Their relationship with the Maharishi
was not to last, but the lessons and influence from their
time in India, would remain with them.
The Beatles Ashram – or Chaurasi Kutia, was
abandoned in the 1990’s and engulfed by the Rajaji
National Park, a place where wild elephants and tigers
roam in the tree thick wilderness.
After lying derelict for years, with many of the
buildings overtaken by nature, the ashram was
converted into an eco-friendly tourism destination,
reopening to the public in early December 2015.
While in Rishikesh on a ten day detox and
transformational retreat, I ventured out there to walk
the grounds, climb the meditation chambers and
linger in the rooms where these musical greats had
once been, visualising them there. The place is in a
state of disrepair with the walls covered in murals and
graffiti, yet the magic prevails and the rooftop domes
make ideal photo ops with the Himalayan foothills as a
backdrop.
There is an undeniable spiritual air about the place.
As though all the visitors over the years have left a part
of themselves there. A place of expression, these words
scribbled on the walls, resonated: ‘You are the love you
seek’.
Rishikesh, birthplace of yoga and soul seekers
Rishikesh in India’s northern state of Uttarakhand
is a 40 minute drive from the Dehradun Airport.
Reached by winding road through thick forest, you’ll
pass brightly decorated trucks and tuk-tuks, passenger
laden motorbikes and the occasional roadside monkey
en route.
A place of ancient spiritual practices and thousands
of years of meditation and Ayurveda, the city is built
up on the banks of the Holy Mother Ganga river, on
the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains. Known as
the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ it is said to be one of the
holiest of Hindu places and sages, saints and pilgrims
have visited here since ancient times in search of higher
knowledge.
The most recognisable image of Rishikesh is the
view across the Lakshman Jhula hanging bridge to
the huge 13-storey temple of Swarg Niwas and Shri
Trayanbakshwar, which resembles a fairytale castle and
has dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level,
SA&BEYOND 39

Lakshman Jhula Bridge Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
interspersed with jewellery and textile shops.
Walking along the east bank of the Ganges you’ll
find ashrams, an incredible bazaar, and the bathing
ghats – or steps leading down to the Ganges River
where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise
and sunset each day.
Walking the streets richly rewarded, from Baba’s
reading the newspaper to women in their bright saris
chatting on the streets, endless gorgeous items for
sale and food prepared by hand at the various stalls,
everywhere I looked there was something to pause
and appreciate. Throughout sacred cows and attention
seeking dogs roamed free, all tended and fed by the
local community.
Today most of the ashrams and retreats are found
north of the main town, on the banks of the fastflowing
Ganges, surrounded by forested hills. In the
evening, an almost supernatural breeze blows down
the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus – holy
men, pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly
ganga aarti – the river worship ceremony.
I have no doubt that the Rishikesh of today differs
vastly from the one The Beatles encountered 50 years
ago, but the soulful connection, introspection, selflove,
seeing and being that the city brings, remains.
Like them, after a visit there on my personal spiritual
journey, I will never be the same.
15 Days Yoga Detox Retreat Photo: retreat.guru
40
SA&BEYOND

Banks of the Ganges River Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
Booking your Trip to Rishikesh
Getting there: Emirates and Ethiopian
Airlines offer convenient connections from
Cape Town and Johannesburg to Delhi.
From there book a flight to Dehradun on
Air India or IndiGo Airlines. A driver can
meet you on arrival and transfer you the 40
minutes to Rishikesh.
Visas: South African passport holders require
visas for India and an e-Tourist Visa can be
conveniently applied for online - https://
indianvisaonline.gov.in/
Booking Details: Namaste Retreats India
offer numerous transformational retreats
in India each year. Their packages include
accommodation, meals, workshops, meditation,
yoga and activities. www.namasteretreatsindia.com
Where to stay: Dewa Retreat Hotel https://
www.dewaretreat.com/ Don’t miss a delicious
coconut masala chai latte at their Pure Soul organic
restaurant.
Getting Around: From Rishikesh, take a Tuk-Tuk to
the Beatles Ashram or rent a bike and self-navigate
the surrounding area. I booked one with Sharma
Adventure Bikers. Beyond that, walking the streets,
the bridges and the banks of the holy Ganges River,
is the best option.
NOTE: Rishikesh is an alcohol free and entirely
vegetarian city.
SA&BEYOND 41

Why choose TGCSA
star-graded resorts?
SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM
WHEN going on holiday, booking
accommodation can be a daunting
experience. Images of rooms and
facilities may shimmer online, but in
reality, you could be staying in the sticks. But looking
for accommodation has never been easier thanks to the
Tourism Grading Council of South Africa’s (TGCSA)
star-grading system – the hospitality industry’s mark of
quality.
New grading criteria keeps up with trends
The grading criteria was recently augmented to keep up
with the latest global tourism and technological trends.
Three new categories have been added: apartment
hotels, small hotels and boutique hotels.
The grading criteria was recently augmented
to keep up with the latest global tourism and
technological trends. Three new categories have been
added: apartment hotels, small hotels and boutique
hotels.
According to TGCSA’s Chief Quality Assurance
Officer, the new criteria is to ensure South Africa
remains internationally benchmarked and thus
competitive as a destination. “One of the key reasons
behind the triennial review of our criteria, is the impact
that technological enhancements are having on the
hospitality sector and the overall guest experience.
For instance, the provision and access to Wi-Fi is fast
becoming a very basic need and guest prerequisite at
any category of accommodation.”
Guests will be guaranteed that higher graded
establishments have technological capabilities to suit
both business and leisure travellers. Tech developments
in the hospitality industry allow guests to connect
with the hotel service outlets using new platforms and
applications as well as the ability to make outgoing calls
using applications linked to Wi-Fi.
Rewarding responsible establishments
With over 5,200 properties graded across the country,
there are a variety of options with availability seldom
an issue. In addition, TGCSA has introduced the
Responsible Tourism accolade for establishments that
abide by sustainable responsible tourism practices.
“We are of the opinion that limiting the impact
of tourism on the environment is in the interest of
all concerned and it was on this premise that the
TCGSA undertook to include an accolade to recognise
properties that have adopted and are practicing
Responsible Tourism practices,” said Erasmus.
Travel agents trust the grading system
When booking for clients, travel agents look for tried
and trusted establishments that have TGCSA star
grading.
Erasmus said the grading level awarded to
properties annually are by far the most important for
travel agents when recommending an establishment to
a customer.
This indicates the type of product that will be
encountered as well as the levels of product quality,
variety of facilities and service standards to be expected
by your guests.
“We are invigorated to see that our contribution,
through the provision of our world-class grading
system, continues to assist trade in improving the
collective positioning of South Africa as a quality
destination and a leading player on the global stage,”
said Erasmus.
42
SA&BEYOND

VIETNAM
Vietnam’s
HO CHI MINH CITY
- a heaving metropolis
Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
SA&BEYOND 43

DAWN JORGENSEN
THE first thing to strike you about Ho Chi
Minh City will be how the streets teem with
family laden scooters, and how bicycles,
cars and carts weave seamlessly between
pedestrians as they go about their business
with colourful determination. Yet beyond this frenetic
welcome is a city brimming with a wealth of history,
art and culture, one that is home to a distinct blend of
Southeast Asian, Chinese and French influences.
More commonly known as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh
is located in southeast Vietnam and has a population
of just under 9 million. The capital of South Vietnam
from 1955 to 1975, Saigon played a pivotal role in the
Vietnam War when it served as the headquarters of
U.S. military operations. Today a place where timeless
incense-infused temples sit alongside chic designer
malls and sleek 21st-century skyscrapers, it offers a
dizzying adrenaline-fuelled assault on the senses that
instantly commands attention.
The heart of the city is adorned with elegant
tree-lined roads and historic French colonial
buildings. The main sites in the city centre include the
Reunification Palace, City Hall, the Opera House and
City People’s Court. Independence Palace, also known
as Reunification Palace, built on the site of the former
Norodom Palace, is an impressive landmark in Saigon.
Downtown you’ll find the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Basilica of Saigon, the most impressive cathedral in
Vietnam and modelled on Notre-Dame Paris. Built
between
1863 and 1880 by
French colonists
using
materials
shipped
over
from
(Above) Aerial view of Ho Chi Minh City Photo: nomadicmatt.com
(Below) Temple dragon detail Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
France, the cathedral is the religious centre for
Vietnam’s 6.2 million Catholics.
Adjacent is the Ho Chi Minh City Post Office, one of
the city’s most photographed tourist
destinations. Inside, if you’re
lucky, you’ll find 88-yearold
Duong Van Ngo,
the only remaining
public writer who
for almost 30
years has
44
SA&BEYOND

The Essential Details for booking
your visit to Ho Chi Minh City
Getting there: There are no direct flights to Ho
Chi Minh City from South Africa, but convenient
connections with Emirates, Qatar and Singapore
Airlines make travelling there easy. On the
ground, Vietnam remains a very affordable option
for South Africans.
Visas: South African passport holders can apply
online to receive a 30 or 90 day single or multiple
entry visa on arrival. This must be done in
advance.
Accommodation: You will find a variety of
accommodation that ranges from top end hotels
to hostels and self-catering apartments. The most
popular districts with tourists are District 1, 2, 3
and 7.
Getting around: Tickets can be purchased for the
local bus and there’s an app that shows you their
routes and running times. That said, Grab (South
East Asia’s Uber) is likely the best way.
Don’t miss: A Vietnamese Egg Coffee from Little
HaNoi Egg Coffee Goc Ha Noi in District 1.
penned letters for those who cannot write themselves.
You may even ask him to help you pen yours.
A special find is the Ho Chi Minh City Book Street
located in District 1, a pedestrianised alley lined with
libraries, photo displays and book stores. Seek out
the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas in District 5,
a secluded, off-the-beaten-path attraction renowned
for its enormous display of ornate statues of Buddhist
deities. For a treat, head to the Saigon Skydeck at the
Bitexco Financial Tower, the tallest building in Ho Chi
Minh City that offers spectacular 360-degree views
from the bar on the 49th-floor.
But eating is what you’ll want to do in Saigon
and the city boasts some of the best street food in the
world. Try typical Vietnamese dishes such as Pho soup
and French-influenced Banh Mi. For a glimpse of the
city’s nightlife visit Bui Vien Backpacker Street, which
is lined with bars, food stalls and nightclubs. The
Ben Thanh Market is the place to go if shopping for
clothes, spices and locally handcrafted souvenirs is your
interest.
Whichever it is, drink in this pulsating city from
every available angle, it certainly warrants an in-depth
look and appreciation and will very quickly have you
swept up in its infectious energy.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Not to be overlooked is the War Remnants
Museum which comprises a series of themed
rooms and exhibits with graphic photographs
and accounts documenting the atrocities of
the Vietnam War. In the grounds American
tanks, bombs and aircraft are displayed, as
well as a mock-up of a POW prison. This is the
most visited site in the city for good reason
and offers sobering insight into a difficult
and prolonged war, as well as a better
understanding of the history of the city.
SA&BEYOND 45

SOUTH AFRICA
Samara
Private Game
Reserve
Rewilding the Plains
of Camdeboo
46
SA&BEYOND
Seated cheetah
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen

DAWN JORGENSEN
AS I turned onto the dirt track that leads to
the Karoo Lodge I caught sight of a tower
of giraffe feeding in the last of the evening
light, their curious expressions visible
above the tall acacia trees. In the distance
vervet monkey played in puddles left by the recent rain.
The setting was complete and I could barely believe
that l was back at beautiful Samara Private Game
Reserve.
Flying into Port Elizabeth and making the drive
to Samara near Graff-Reinet, I was warmly welcomed
and shown to my room in the Karoo Lodge, a perfectly
appointed old farmstead with wrap-around verandah,
that is surrounded by thousands of hectares of land rich
in protected wildlife.
During my three night stay I was taken on game
drives by my guide Benedict, who with the assistance
of his tracker Rowan pointed out waterbuck, red
hartebeest, zebra and baboon, amongst others. We
tracked cheetah on foot, were fortunate enough to see
rhino and elephant, and on the one evening drove to
the very highest plateau to take in the views towards
the Plains of Camdeboo.
There were lessons in conservation, insight into the
long term vision of Samara and toasts to the pink skies
with chilled G&T’s. Nights were enjoyed snug next to
the roaring fire in the Karoo Lodge lounge, evening
Have we forgotten
that wilderness is not a
place, but a pattern of
soul where every tree,
every bird and beast is a
soul maker?
- Ian McCallum
Scenic sunset
meals taken in the dining room and brunch savoured
in the warm Winter sun. Throughout the service was
impeccable, authentically warm and in true Karoo style.
Cosy interior
The Story of Samara Private Game Reserve
The story of Samara is one of determination,
perseverance and commitment. It follows owners Mark
and Sarah Tompkins’ dream to painstakingly return 11
former livestock farms to wilderness over a period of 20
years.
Located on 27,000 hectares of wilderness in the
Great Karoo, Samara Private Game Reserve is the
leader in its area and a catalyst for change in the
area. The abundant land here preserves a complex
and diverse ecosystem with four vegetation biomes
providing habitat for over 60 mammal species,
including: lion, elephant, cheetah, black and white
rhino, buffalo, Cape mountain zebra, giraffe, eland,
gemsbok and aardvark to name but a few.
One of many things that Samara Private Game
Reserve is renowned for is their successful wild cheetah
conservation project that started with a female cheetah
Sibella, who had been rescued from a pack of farm
dogs and patiently nursed back to health before being
released back into the wild here.
She went on to be the mother of generations of
cheetah to come who have gone on to live across
Southern Africa.
On the one day I trekked on foot into her daughter
SA&BEYOND 47

Samara Private Game Reserve (Below) View across the
reserve from the game vehicle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
Chilli and her five 7-month-old very fluffy cubs, who
affectionately played and pounced around her, before
settling down in the morning sun.
The Arrival of the Lions
Earlier this year Samara Private Game Reserve
successfully released a founder pride of lions – restoring
a species that last roamed the Plains of Camdeboo over
180 years ago. Their release forms part of a pioneering
project to return the Karoo to the state of true
biodiversity it once enjoyed, marking a major milestone
not only for Samara, but also for South African wildlife
conservation.
The reintroduction is critical for several reasons.
Firstly, there is an urgent need for conservation
initiatives targeting lions, the species has dwindled by
43% in the past 20 years. A sobering fact is that there
are only an estimated 3 000 wild lions left in South
Africa
The new lion population means that the ecosystem
has an apex predator, and positions Samara one step
closer to achieving its ultimate goal of establishing
a series of ecological corridors and public-private
partnerships that will see the region become South
Africa’s third largest protected area.
An area that was once home to
the largest migration on earth:
the springbok migration.
The Essential Details
Contact Details: For more information,
visit www.samara.co.za and email
reservations@samara.co.za. Be sure to
enquire about SA resident special offers.
Location: Situated approximately
270km from Port Elizabeth and 53km
from the nearest town of Graaff Reinet,
Samara offers easy access to visitors. I’d
recommend flying into Port Elizabeth and
driving the 2,5 scenic hours from there.
Road and air transfers can be arranged on
request.
Accommodation: Accommodating
a maximum of 26 guests in two, fivestar
luxury lodges: the Karoo Lodge
– a renovated farmstead overlooking
an amphitheatre of mountains and The
Manor – a luxury villa with private pool,
chef, butler and ranger that can be booked
exclusively or by private individuals.
Activities: Samara activities include
game drives, guided walks, a luxury
star bed experience, wilderness picnics,
birding, mountain hikes, indoor and
outdoor dining and conservation activities.
Children of all ages are welcome and
there’s a dedicated children’s programme.
In addition: This is a malaria free area. A
minimum of three nights is recommended.
Manage your expectations when booking your stay at
Samara Private Game Reserve. If all you’re interested in
is ticking animals off a must-see safari list, this may not
be the place for you. Samara is more for those seeking
a soulful retreat to the bush, where all life matters
and the effort that goes into preserving the area and
wilderness, is appreciated.
Samara is about the big skies, the views across the
Camdeboo plains, the impressive landscape and diverse
vegetation. Warm Karoo hospitality, fine food and
luxury and the excellent guides that bring the reserve to
life. A visit there supports Samara’s conservation vision
and I already look forward to my return.
48
SA&BEYOND

https://umustsee.net/RUU5SQ
Contact:
Charles Reddy on 0835541424
mail: charles.reddy@redmps.com
Nesan Govender on 0815403104
mail: nesan.govender@redmps.com
Vijay Govender on 0614403714
mail: vijay.govender@redmps.com
SA&BEYOND 49

How to
be a more
Responsible
Tourist
Photo: adventuretravelnews.com
50
SA&BEYOND

DAWN JORGENSEN
WITH climate change affecting all of us,
tourists are becoming more aware of
the potentially negative impact they’re
having on the environment and are
seeking out more responsible options when they travel.
This means not only examining their own carbon
footprints, but also the economic and social influence
they may have on the destinations they visit.
Aligned to this, everything from human rights and
equality, to improved working conditions come into
play for the tourist who doesn’t want to be perceived
to be supporting ‘controversial countries’ on their
travels. Safety, regardless of gender, ethnicity or
sexual orientation are of increased importance, while
destinations that support women travelling alone,
remain popular.
In summary, if you are turning a blind eye to
exploited communities, leave the air-conditioner on
when you leave the room, aren’t carrying a reusable
water bottle and think that interacting with wild
animals is acceptable, you’re not a responsible tourist.
Here are some ways to help you travel more
responsibly:
1. Fly Smarter and Lighter
Airlines produce fossil fuels, which are harmful to the
environment. Be smart and select a greener airline
with a newer fleet of planes modernised to produce less
emissions. Book direct flights where possible to reduce
flying time. Once cruising at altitude, lower the window
shades, it keeps the aircraft a few degrees cooler, which
saves energy. Bring your own in-flight gear such as a
headset and blanket. Pack light, the more weight on a
plane, the more fuel it requires.
2. Choose Greener Accommodation
Be selective in your choice of accommodation. Look
to family run businesses with a strong eco feel, or
sustainable tourism endorsement, which ensures
that environmental, economic and social values are
being upheld. Get to the core of responsible tourism
by eating locally sourced food, in turn supporting
resident farmers and creating job opportunities for the
community, while getting a real taste of the homegrown
cuisine. Green travel trends in the hotel sector include
simple things such as reusing towels, keeping your
linen for 2-3 days, low flow shower heads and the use of
solar power.
3. Choose an Eco-Friendly Tour
Seek experiences that have meaning and create
memories, from cultural and heritage experiences
that speak of the traditions and history of a place to
adventure activities or travel with a purpose, where
tourists can contribute to a greater cause or even get
involved in local conservation efforts. Research what
is available in your chosen destination and remember
the old adage – take only photographs, leave only
footprints.
4. Under Tourism, not Over Tourism
The increased awareness around over tourism in cities
such as Venice and Dubrovnik, Paris and Barcelona,
has tourists thinking about the impact their visits
have on tourism hotspots. Consider travelling to lesser
known, eco-friendly destinations, from East Europe
to India, Portugal and Slovenia. Should the popular
hotspots be irresistible, consider visiting during offpeak
periods in a bid to avoid the worst of the crowds.
5. You Don’t Need that Animal Interaction
Gone are the days when elephant back riding or
petting lion cubs was acceptable. Attractions to avoid
in the name of responsible tourism include visiting
circuses with large animals, bullfighting, walking with
lions or other big cats, petting cubs, ostrich riding,
swimming with dolphins, orca shows, dancing bears
and performing monkeys. Humans need to adjust their
attitude and accept that animals belong in the wild and
should not be exploited. Educate yourself about the
torture most of the animals in tourism undergo.
6. Go Plastic Free
Tireless efforts by environmentalists have greatly
increased awareness of plastic’s negative impact on the
ocean, and the planet and many tourism bodies have
pledged to take action, aiming to end the use of plastic
straws, plastic water bottles and single use plastic.
Carry a shopping bag and your own reusable water
bottle, don’t use disposable toiletries, carry a cloth
napkin or two. Don’t buy unnecessary cheap plastic
souvenirs, opt for the real thing made locally and
ideally with a story that inspires telling.
7. Be kind and respectful
Be respectful and aware of your surrounds, be they
urban or wilderness. Be gracious to all who host and
serve you. Tip well. Be present. Think about what you
post on social media. Remember that you are a guest,
and that travel is a privilege.
Photo: Table Mountain Cableway
SA&BEYOND 51

Discover a
new side
to your
favourite
local
destination
TRAVEL trends across the world are seeing
travellers shying away from the overcrowded
sights, rather looking for unique experiences
in their destinations. But avoiding the crush
of tourists doesn’t mean you should skip
visiting some of South Africa’s most well-loved cities.
“Many of our guests are looking to engage with their
destination in a new way, with the focus on experiences
rather than sites,” explains Danny Bryer, Area Director,
Sales and Marketing, Protea Hotels by Marriott,
Marriott International, Middle East and Africa.
“Our visitors are looking for activities that help
them to connect with their destination in an authentic
way and experience the destination as locals do. We’ve
noticed a trend of moving away from merely spending
a few hours sightseeing as a passenger, and towards
seeking out unusual experiences and sites that tell a
different South African story.”
Next time you’re holidaying in one of our major
cities, why not try a new experience instead of following
the well-worn path of hordes of other sightseers.
Johannesburg
One of the City of Gold’s attractions is the sense of
nostalgia that coats the city, hinting at an old-world
charm and the glamour which followed the gold rush.
Revisit the time of great riches and devastating
losses through a trip to the one of the oldest gold mines
in the province, the Kromdraai Gold Mine.
Embrace the vintage era with a glimpse into
the past at the James Hall Museum of Transport in
Johannesburg – not only will you be left feeling just a
little bit “Gatsby”, you’ll also have a view of the most
comprehensive museum of transport in South Africa.
To another mode of transport, indulge in a sense of
nostalgia by tying on your roller-skates and taking a
few laps at a 1970s-styled disco roller-skating rink at
RollEgoli in Bryanston.
Pretoria
Older than its sister city of Johannesburg, the capital
has retained the feeling of an edgy, urban setting.
Tap into this culture through experiencing urban
outdoor art installations, such as the Urban Being
Sculpture by Marco Cianfanelli and The Spirit of
Tshwane by Anton Smit.
While away the afternoon with up-and-coming
talent at one of the many outdoor music events in
Pretoria, such as Park Acoustics, which is held at the
Voortrekker Monument.
Cool off from the Highveld heat at a hip and
happening pool party, such the rooftop infinity pool
parties at the Protea Hotel by Marriott Fire & Ice!
Pretoria Menlyn.
Cape Town
The Mother City forms the intersection of where
much of South African culture, history and art meet
– bringing the sea and the mountain together in
spectacular scenery.
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SA&BEYOND

Take on some of Cape Town’s oldest scenic roads,
with the wind in your hair and the roar of a Harley
Davidson engine, or the V8 burble of a classic Cobra
sportscar, as your soundtrack; either through a selfdriven
tour or with a tour guide.
Explore the history of one of Cape Town’s most
established suburbs through the lens of young artists.
Guided walking tours through Woodstock will allow
you to view over 40 street art works by both local and
international graffiti artists.
Immerse yourself in local culture through a visit
to the Guga S’Thebe Arts & Cultural Centre, where
you can shop for handmade pottery or view a musical
performance by local musicians.
Durban
With an abundance of sea, sun and sand, Durban is the
perfect destination to get away from the rat race and
reconnect with nature.
Take a walk on the wild side with a hike in the
Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve. This hidden
wilderness is home to a wetland, and coastal and dune
forest, along with a number of indigenous birds and
animals, such as bushbuck and duiker.
Beyond the breakers lies an underwater world for
you to explore. Snorkelling allows you to view marine
creatures in calmer waters, without the necessity
of diving gear and training. You may even have an
encounter with larger mammals, such as dolphins.
For a relaxing change of pace, take in the
countryside through the classic mode of transport from
yesteryear. A steam train will take you on a leisurely
puff through the Valley of a Thousand Hills, giving
you an immersive experience of the beautifully verdant
province.
SA&BEYOND 53

ITALY
Venice needs to be seen. No book, film
or photograph can prepare one for
the beauty of this eternal city.
Gondola on the Grand Canal Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
Venice, the
Eternal City
DAWN JORGENSEN
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Punta della Dogana Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
SURREAL in every way, the capital of
northern Italy’s Veneto region is built on
more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in
the Adriatic Sea. There are no roads, just a
network of canals lined with Renaissance
buildings and Gothic palaces. In the central square is
Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Basilica, one of the
finest examples of Byzantine architecture in the world,
and the Campanile bell tower that offers unsurpassed
aerial views of the city.
The story of Venice begins in the 5th century
after the fall of the Western Roman Empire when the
Venetian population on the mainland escaped to the
nearby marshes to find refuge on the sandy islands.
Although the settlements were initially temporary,
the Venetians gradually inhabited the islands on a
permanent basis, driving wooden stakes into the
sandy ground on which they were to construct their
impressive buildings.
By then a trip to Venice had become a rite of
passage for upper class northern Europeans who
congregated in the lagoon city as part of the Italian
Grand Tour. Writers and artists soaked up inspiration
from the commanding architecture that reflected in
the gleaming waters, and the city fast became a symbol
for Italian romance. Today Venice is divided into
six neighbourhoods, each with a distinctly different
character.
Not to be missed city highlights
Venice’s most iconic attraction and one of the most
easily recognised sites in the world is St. Mark’s
Basilica, originally built as the Doge’s private chapel.
Beyond it Saint Mark’s Square, the largest and most
significant square in Venice and a place where people
gather to see and be seen, and where brazen pigeons
wait to be fed.
St. Mark’s Basilica Photo: travelade.com
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Accademia Fine Arts Museum Photo: Wikipedia
Doges’ Palace Photo: erinatlarge.com
Adjacent is the Doges’ Palace, built in Venetian
Gothic style, and another of the city’s landmark
attractions. The palace was once the residence of the
Doge of Venice, the authority of the former Venetian
Republic. Between the Doge’s Palace and the Marciana
Library are two marble and granite pillars overlooking
the lagoon. They house the statues of the city’s two
patrons saints; the Column of San Marco is topped
with a winged lion while the Column of San Teodoro
holds up a statue of Saint Theodore.
Allow yourself time to appreciate the Peggy
Guggenheim Collection of modernist and surrealist art,
including major works by Picasso, Magritte, Max Ernst,
Giacometti and Jackson Pollock that are exhibited at
the museum. Also for the art lovers is the Accademia
Fine Arts Museum, a must visit for its comprehensive
collection of 15th-18th-century Venetian paintings.
The Grand Canal remains the most prominent
address in Venice and the water reflects the glorious
Venetian architecture of family palaces, Gothic and
Early Renaissance facades. It follows a natural channel
that traces a reverse-S course from San Marco Basilica
to Santa Chiara Church and divides the city into two.
A trip along the canal by vaporetto – or water taxi – is
the best way to enjoy it, although no visit to Venice
would be complete without a Gondola ride, especially
by night.
Allow yourself to get lost as you walk the enchanting
narrow streets and passageways, pause alongside the
inky blue canals and cross over some of the city’s 400
bridges as you seek out the secret gardens for which
the Venice known. No matter how far you venture, it’s
always easy to find your way back to the Grand Canal.
Rialto Market Photo: Venice Tourism
Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop Photo: pegsontheline.com
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The mad coloured houses of Burano Photo: Oliver Clarke (Flickr)
This lagoon city has a long and glorious culinary
tradition based on fresh seafood and the stalls of the
Rialto and Chioggia markets offer fresh product ready
for the local kitchens. Most Venetians agree that the
city’s best gelato is served in Boutique del Gelato, a
tiny outlet on busy salizzada San Lio. Try the Venetian
tapas, but do save space for a proper sit-down Venetian
meal at one of the canal side bistros.
Special city finds include the Libreria Acqua Alta
bookshop, a treasure trove and home to three very
characterful attention-seeking cats. The books are
charmingly stored in repurposed gondolas, bathtubs,
and elevated shelves to protect them during flooding.
Consider touring Lido on foot or by bicycle to get a
closer look at the Art Nouveau villas and hotels. The
long strip of sand there that separates the Venetian
lagoon from the Adriatic Sea was Europe’s first real
beach resort and at the turn of the 20th century,
Europe’s most fashionable watering hole.
Islands to visit from Venice
Beyond the city of Venice, you’ll find a scattered
collection of islands, each with their own history and
significance. These can be visited by private tour or
ferry. Murano Island is famous for its glass making
craft and the most popular Venetian island among
tourists. Burano with its enchanted colourful painted
houses and picturesque canals is well worth a trip.
Famous for artisan lace, a leaning tower on one of its
churches and a selection of very good restaurants.
The Venetian lagoon’s smaller islands often
had more specific functions. These are Lazzaretto
Nuovo, once a quarantine island, and San Lazzaro
degli Armeni, home to an Armenian monastery. For
something very different, take the hourly ferry to
Sant’Erasmo, the largest island in the lagoon and
sometimes referred to as the Garden of Venice, which is
purely agricultural and produces much of the fresh fruit
and vegetables sold in the city.
Staying in Venice may be more expensive than
staying on the outskirts, but there’s an undeniable
magic to walking the streets late at night and taking in
the views of the gondolas on the canals first thing in the
morning, before the day visitors arrive.
The Essential Details for
booking your visit to Venice
Getting there: There are numerous flights
from South Africa via European hubs into
the Venice Marco Polo Airport. You could
consider combining Venice with an Italian
road trip, as driving time from Rome to
Venice is only 6 hours.
Visas: South African passport holders
require a Schengen Visa to visit Italy.
Accommodation: Recommended hotels
include Al Ponte Antico http://www.
alponteantico.com/ and family run Bellini
Venezia Hotel http://boscolobellini.
hotelinvenice.com/.
Getting around: The ATVO express offers
direct, non-stop transfers from the airport
to the Piazzale Roma square in just 20
minutes. On arrival take a Vaporetto to
the Grand Canal and from there use a
water taxi service. Be sure to use a licensed
one with a yellow stripe and number on
the side.
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Spier Light Art to delight
visitors at this historic
Stellenbosch wine farm
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Written in the Stars Photo: Berco Wilsenach
THE popular annual Spier Light Art will be
presented again from 8 December 2019 to
19 January 2020. Each night, visitors will
experience a dazzling array of light and sound
artworks throughout this historic Stellenbosch farm.
18 diverse artworks will be scattered across the
Spier farm. Some are playful and interactive, while
others invite poignant contemplation. The installations
include:
Lyall Sprong’s Bergson’s Misting Circle – a 4
metre vertical circle of light and mist
Goldendean’s Breathe Goldendean – an
interactive inflatable sculpture that allows you to
lie on it whilst it gently glows and breathes
around you
David Brits’s massive 70 metre glowing shape,
suspended high in one of the oldest oaks living
on the Spier Werf (farmyard)
Themba Stewart and Qondiswa James’s astute
and profound Keep the Lights On, which
reminds us that light in the everyday is a
sociopolitical issue that cannot be taken for
granted
Spier Light Art is free and guests can explore the farm
at their own leisurely pace. The best time is at dusk, to
catch the beautiful sunset and the switching on of the
lights. Be sure to book a dinner or picnic in advance.
Spier Light Art 2019/2020 builds on the success
of the inaugural festival, held on the estate during the
2018/2019 festive season. Over this period, thousands
of visitors to Spier were enthralled by an astonishing
array of light art installations conceptualised and
created by some of South Africa’s leading artists and
designers.
Spier Light Art is one of Spier’s Growing for Good initiatives, which empower communities to create positive social and environmental change.
www.spier.co.za
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Plettenberg Bay
HAPPENINGS GUIDE
PLETT HIGH FIVE
The boss of adventure destinations, Plett, is bringing out
the big guns for a season of adventure in nature. Plett is the
crosscountry of adventure destinations in SA, arguably the
world. With more than 30 adventures across the region, from
the forests of Harkerville to the mountains of Tsitsikamma,
Plett is the ultimate base camp from which to tackle the
toughest, most insane adventures to be found. Canyoning,
abseiling, zip-lining, scuba and skydiving, swimming with seals,
quad biking, blackwater tubing and, of course, leaping off the
world’s highest bungy bridge provide endless exhilaration in
the exquisite wilderness of Plett. Throttle down with a select
mix of unforgettable activities to balance out the thrill: horse
and hiking trails, stand-up paddling, kayaking, surfing, deepsea
angling, marine safaris and animal sanctuaries.
Date: 21 - 28 September
Contact: Plett Tourism | 0445334065
Website: pletttourism.com
ROBBERG XPRESS TAIL RUN
Take flight on Plett’s favourite mountain – Robberg
peninsula, during the Robberg Xpress Trail Run.
The run includes a 10km Robberg Express Tough
Run and a shorter 5km Shy Shark Scenic Run.
Registration at 7am, race starts at 8am. R150 for
the 10km Run and R80 for the 5km Run.
Date: 29 September
Contact: 0827833138
Website: otter.run
AFRICAN OTTER TRAIL RUN
The Otter African Classic Trail Run separates
the men from the boys, so to speak. Each year
The Otter African Trail Run takes place in an
alternating direction, so boring ‘same old same
old’ here! It’s the same route but different climbs
to conquer and all new spectacular views to look
forward to. 2018 will see the event run from West
to East, starting at Nature’s Valley and finishing
at Storms River Mouth Rest Camp. Marathon
Distance. Four river crossings. Over 2600 meters
of elevation gain and 11 significant climbs. This is
what makes The Otter ‘The Grail of Trail’.
Date: 9 - 12 October
Contact: 0443822932
Website: otter.run
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SEEF TOUR DE PLETT
Scores of local MTB fans strut their stuff, compare
bling, all the while keeping a beady eye on the
competition and at the end of the race a frosty or two
are enjoyed while the ‘war stories’ are shared with
great enthusiasm. This is the 9th Tour de Plett MTB
race, and it caters to all tastes by offering multiple
distances (70km, 45km and a 16km fun ride). The
route showcases Plett and will include Keurbooms
Lagoon Caravan Park for the 2019 race.
Date: 12 October
Contact: Colin Shave | 0767742435
Website: tourdeplett.co.za
THE WILD CORRIDOR MTB TOUR 2019
The Wild Corridor is not just a ride, it’s a life
experience – true to its routes following elephant
migratory corridors between the Knysna Forests
and Baviaanskloof. This 4 day is hosted by riding
legend Kevin Evans. The race is an experience
of a lifetime, where not only will you experience
some of the most unique mountain biking, but
you’ll also create amazing new friendships and be
a part of a very important conservation effort.
Date: 15 – 19 October
Contact: The Worx | 0445330816
Website: wildcorridor.co.za
SUNSHINE TOUR SA SENIOR OPEN
This prestigious event is hosted by Bitou
Municipality and will take place at the
Plettenberg Bay Country Club. Mark McNulty
will once again return to defend his crown. There
will also be a 2-day Pro-Am whereby amateurs
will have an opportunity to play side-by-side
with the best senior professional golfers in South
Africa.
WITTEDRIFT BIRDING FESTIVAL
The quiet village of Wittedrift lies at the centre of one
of SA’s best ecotourism regions and is just a few kms
from the famous beaches and tourist attractions of
Plett. Led by qualifi ed guides, visitors can enjoy nine
different bird-watching trails, by car, on foot and
even on horseback. Activities include a birdringing
demonstration by the Nature’s Valley Trust and
evening dinner lectures by leading bird-watching
authorities. You can bird watch, hike, follow running
and horse-riding trails through the bush and forest,
take a game drive, try canoeing and paddle-boarding,
enjoy a family picnic or enjoy the local beaches and
restaurants.
Date: 19 - 27 October
Contact: 0741266775
Website: wittedriftway.co.za
Date: 22 – 25 October
Contact: 0712391489
Website: acceleratesport.com
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Photos: Marinus Haakman
Rare opportunity to
visit one of Gauteng’s
most beautiful gardens
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THE magnificent gardens of Mulligatawny
Farm will be open to the public on the
weekend of 12-13 October 2019 from 0900
until 1700.
Situated on a private estate near to
Skeerpoort in the Cradle of Humankind, the gardens
were last open in 2017. This year’s open garden is once
again in aid of St George’s Turning Point Foundation,
which helps young people obtain vocational training.
Clubs and special-interest groups can also visit the
gardens on Friday 11 October.
“These gardens are rarely open to the public, so we
advise people to take advantage of the opportunity to
see one of Gauteng’s most original - and beautiful -
gardens, while supporting a good cause,” says Marianne
MacRobert, Chair of the St George’s Turning Point
Foundation.
“Because of the distances involved, and the extent of
the grounds, people should plan to spend several hours
there. Food and drink will be on sale, and there are
plenty of places to sit and drink in the beauty, and chat
to friends.”
About a 70 minute drive north of Johannesburg,
and 40 minutes from Lanseria Airport, this 16-hectare
garden is the brainchild of its owner, Michael Hogan,
who drew his inspiration from European landscapes
and Monet’s Water Gardens at Giverny, France. A keen
gardener all his life, Hogan is also an interior decorator
and artist, and he has created a garden full of surprises
and eccentricities, with an air of whimsy and romance.
“My garden is a place where fantasy becomes reality,
so it’s constantly evolving,” he says. “There is always
something new being planned.”
It features a matchless collection of waterlilies,
thousands of roses and irises, a lakeside folly, a garden
cathedral, an orchid house and much else. Other
highlights include sculptures, murals and a potager
(walled vegetable or kitchen garden) with hand-painted
tiles depicting exotic birds.
And talking of birds the garden is exceptionally
rich in birdlife - blue cranes and Cape vultures visit
regularly.
This year, a flower meadow stretching down to
the Skeerpoort River will be on view for the first time,
while the thatched structure alongside the lake has
been converted into an Indian pavilion, featuring a
magnificent peacock mural made by Hogan.
The garden offers many hours of exploration:
visitors are advised to wear comfortable walking shoes,
and to bring a hat and sunscreen. One only needs to be
moderately fit, and there are benches throughout the
garden for rest and contemplation. Much of the garden
is also wheelchair-friendly. Keep in mind that with
many lakes and streams children must be under adult
supervision at all times.
Plants, food and drink will be on sale at the venue.
All proceeds will go to the St George’s Turning Point
Foundation, which was established to assist young
people from disadvantaged backgrounds to obtain
marketable skills through vocational training.
Venue: Farm S86, Skeerpoort, Cradle of Humankind;
GPS coordinates: 25°49’03.7”S 27°46’09.3”E;
Dates: Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 October 2019
- 09h00 to 17h00 (Friday 11 October for groups,
clubs only - no food, drinks and plants will be on
sale; pre-bookings only); Tickets: R200 / R100
- children and students / R150 - groups of four or
more; Booking: Webtickets - webtickets.co.za or at
the gate; Safe parking with a shuttle service to the
farm gate is provided. For more info: call James on
083 326 4493 / info@turningpointfoundation.org.
za; https://www.facebook.com/MulligatawnyFarm;
www.turningpointfoundation.org.za; Twitter: @
TPFOpenGarden
About St George’s Turning Point Foundation
The St George’s Turning Point Foundation (TPF) began as a
home for vulnerable children. After running for more than
a decade the house was sold and a foundation established
to provide funding to help disadvantaged young people
acquire the skills they need to obtain jobs. The focus is
on vocational training to produce artisan and other skills
needed by business and industry, and that are within the
reach of the majority. Our belief is that without the realistic
prospect of a job, our young people are condemned to a
life of frustration. We are currently funding students at
Sparrow FET College and St Anthony’s Education Centre in
Boksburg.
For more information, please visit
www.turningpointfoundation.org.za
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