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Lakshman Jhula Bridge Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
interspersed with jewellery and textile shops.<br />
Walking along the east bank of the Ganges you’ll<br />
find ashrams, an incredible bazaar, and the bathing<br />
ghats – or steps leading down to the Ganges River<br />
where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise<br />
and sunset each day.<br />
Walking the streets richly rewarded, from Baba’s<br />
reading the newspaper to women in their bright saris<br />
chatting on the streets, endless gorgeous items for<br />
sale and food prepared by hand at the various stalls,<br />
everywhere I looked there was something to pause<br />
and appreciate. Throughout sacred cows and attention<br />
seeking dogs roamed free, all tended and fed by the<br />
local community.<br />
Today most of the ashrams and retreats are found<br />
north of the main town, on the banks of the fastflowing<br />
Ganges, surrounded by forested hills. In the<br />
evening, an almost supernatural breeze blows down<br />
the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus – holy<br />
men, pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly<br />
ganga aarti – the river worship ceremony.<br />
I have no doubt that the Rishikesh of today differs<br />
vastly from the one The Beatles encountered 50 years<br />
ago, but the soulful connection, introspection, selflove,<br />
seeing and being that the city brings, remains.<br />
Like them, after a visit there on my personal spiritual<br />
journey, I will never be the same.<br />
15 Days Yoga Detox Retreat Photo: retreat.guru<br />
40<br />
SA&BEYOND
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