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Accademia Fine Arts Museum Photo: Wikipedia Doges’ Palace Photo: erinatlarge.com Adjacent is the Doges’ Palace, built in Venetian Gothic style, and another of the city’s landmark attractions. The palace was once the residence of the Doge of Venice, the authority of the former Venetian Republic. Between the Doge’s Palace and the Marciana Library are two marble and granite pillars overlooking the lagoon. They house the statues of the city’s two patrons saints; the Column of San Marco is topped with a winged lion while the Column of San Teodoro holds up a statue of Saint Theodore. Allow yourself time to appreciate the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of modernist and surrealist art, including major works by Picasso, Magritte, Max Ernst, Giacometti and Jackson Pollock that are exhibited at the museum. Also for the art lovers is the Accademia Fine Arts Museum, a must visit for its comprehensive collection of 15th-18th-century Venetian paintings. The Grand Canal remains the most prominent address in Venice and the water reflects the glorious Venetian architecture of family palaces, Gothic and Early Renaissance facades. It follows a natural channel that traces a reverse-S course from San Marco Basilica to Santa Chiara Church and divides the city into two. A trip along the canal by vaporetto – or water taxi – is the best way to enjoy it, although no visit to Venice would be complete without a Gondola ride, especially by night. Allow yourself to get lost as you walk the enchanting narrow streets and passageways, pause alongside the inky blue canals and cross over some of the city’s 400 bridges as you seek out the secret gardens for which the Venice known. No matter how far you venture, it’s always easy to find your way back to the Grand Canal. Rialto Market Photo: Venice Tourism Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop Photo: pegsontheline.com 56 SA&BEYOND
The mad coloured houses of Burano Photo: Oliver Clarke (Flickr) This lagoon city has a long and glorious culinary tradition based on fresh seafood and the stalls of the Rialto and Chioggia markets offer fresh product ready for the local kitchens. Most Venetians agree that the city’s best gelato is served in Boutique del Gelato, a tiny outlet on busy salizzada San Lio. Try the Venetian tapas, but do save space for a proper sit-down Venetian meal at one of the canal side bistros. Special city finds include the Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop, a treasure trove and home to three very characterful attention-seeking cats. The books are charmingly stored in repurposed gondolas, bathtubs, and elevated shelves to protect them during flooding. Consider touring Lido on foot or by bicycle to get a closer look at the Art Nouveau villas and hotels. The long strip of sand there that separates the Venetian lagoon from the Adriatic Sea was Europe’s first real beach resort and at the turn of the 20th century, Europe’s most fashionable watering hole. Islands to visit from Venice Beyond the city of Venice, you’ll find a scattered collection of islands, each with their own history and significance. These can be visited by private tour or ferry. Murano Island is famous for its glass making craft and the most popular Venetian island among tourists. Burano with its enchanted colourful painted houses and picturesque canals is well worth a trip. Famous for artisan lace, a leaning tower on one of its churches and a selection of very good restaurants. The Venetian lagoon’s smaller islands often had more specific functions. These are Lazzaretto Nuovo, once a quarantine island, and San Lazzaro degli Armeni, home to an Armenian monastery. For something very different, take the hourly ferry to Sant’Erasmo, the largest island in the lagoon and sometimes referred to as the Garden of Venice, which is purely agricultural and produces much of the fresh fruit and vegetables sold in the city. Staying in Venice may be more expensive than staying on the outskirts, but there’s an undeniable magic to walking the streets late at night and taking in the views of the gondolas on the canals first thing in the morning, before the day visitors arrive. The Essential Details for booking your visit to Venice Getting there: There are numerous flights from South Africa via European hubs into the Venice Marco Polo Airport. You could consider combining Venice with an Italian road trip, as driving time from Rome to Venice is only 6 hours. Visas: South African passport holders require a Schengen Visa to visit Italy. Accommodation: Recommended hotels include Al Ponte Antico http://www. alponteantico.com/ and family run Bellini Venezia Hotel http://boscolobellini. hotelinvenice.com/. Getting around: The ATVO express offers direct, non-stop transfers from the airport to the Piazzale Roma square in just 20 minutes. On arrival take a Vaporetto to the Grand Canal and from there use a water taxi service. Be sure to use a licensed one with a yellow stripe and number on the side. SA&BEYOND 57
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October-December 2019

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