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SA &<br />
BEYOND<br />
OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> | ISSUE 01<br />
travel magazine<br />
FREE COPY<br />
Northern Cape<br />
Explore the Routes<br />
Soul Traveller<br />
Brett Shuttleworth<br />
Living like a local in<br />
Lisbon, Portugal<br />
www.sa-beyond.co.za<br />
The multi generational<br />
holiday trend
Experience the wild<br />
places of Africa. In<br />
an expansive 10,000<br />
hectare private game<br />
reserve, just 2 hours<br />
from Johannesburg.<br />
TELEPHONE: +27 (0)11 516 4367 | MABULARES@EXTRAORDINARY.CO.ZA<br />
WWW.MABULA.COM
Where<br />
Tranquility<br />
& Elegance<br />
originate<br />
Conferences | Weddings | Leisure | Spa<br />
BOOKINGS & ENQUIRIES:<br />
011 317 0600 | reservation@kloofzicht.co.za<br />
Central Reservations: 08611 48866 | cro@guvon.co.za | www.guvonhotels.co.za<br />
SA&BEYOND 1
EDITOR’S NOTE<br />
The season of<br />
new beginnings...<br />
Publisher/ Editor-In-Chief<br />
SUNISHA SOOKDEW<br />
Sales Team<br />
PATRICIA CHETTY<br />
+27 67 041 2606<br />
SANDRA ZACHAROPOULOS<br />
+27 82 257 6590<br />
Contributors<br />
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
RITESH SOOKDEW<br />
BRANDON ZACHAROPOULOS<br />
Design Director<br />
RAJESH MUNGROO<br />
+27 84 015 3887<br />
Production<br />
IMPRESS INVESTMENTS<br />
Distribution:<br />
MEDIA SUPPORT SERVICES (PTY) LTD<br />
’M super excited, and there’s good reason<br />
to be! Spring is finally here - a season that<br />
brings the promise of new life and renewed<br />
hope.<br />
My heart beams with pride seeing SA & BEYOND<br />
travel magazine come to life and I am extremely<br />
grateful to family, friends and the SA & BEYOND team<br />
who believed in my vision. I will be the first to admit<br />
that working on the launch issue had its challenges,<br />
however perseverance, determination and dedication<br />
saw the magazine coming together in the most<br />
beautiful way.<br />
Read about remarkable South African game<br />
reserves, get a taste of what it feels like to Live like a<br />
Local in Lisbon, Portugal and why a break to do some<br />
‘soul searching’ in Rishikesh, India may be exactly<br />
what you need. Visit the Northern Cape to experience<br />
the beauty of nature and embrace the trend of multigenerational<br />
holidays that cater for the entire family.<br />
Importantly, learn how to be a more Responsible<br />
Traveller as you find these and other features in this<br />
issue, which we hope will inspire your future travel<br />
decisions.<br />
Be sure to enter the competition on Page 6 and you<br />
could win a two night stay at a fantastic Protea Hotel.<br />
The winning story will be featured in the <strong>December</strong><br />
<strong>2019</strong> issue.<br />
I look forward to your interaction with us on our<br />
social media platforms as this will motivate us to keep<br />
our content interesting and fresh. Don’t forget to scan<br />
the QR code on the front cover of SA & Beyond – it will<br />
direct you to our website where you’ll find a digital copy<br />
of the magazine. Feel free to share our articles far and<br />
wide.<br />
I am personally committed to offering content<br />
that allows you to experience a host of memorable<br />
destinations, both in South Africa and beyond.<br />
Here’s to travel, the longevity of SA & Beyond and<br />
to taking in all the beauty that this wonderful world has<br />
to offer, together!<br />
Yours,<br />
Sunisha<br />
www.sa-beyond.co.za<br />
SA and Beyond<br />
@SAandBeyond<br />
2<br />
SA&BEYOND
the possibilities<br />
SA&BEYOND 3
IN THIS ISSUE<br />
8<br />
Soul<br />
Traveller<br />
Brett Shuttleworth<br />
Creating a Ripple Effect of<br />
Love Globally<br />
10<br />
Thanda Safari<br />
A place of wilderness<br />
and wildlife<br />
16 Marrakech<br />
Exploring<br />
Morocco’s Pink City<br />
28 Northern<br />
Cape<br />
Explore the<br />
Routes<br />
33<br />
Living Like A Local<br />
In Lisbon, Portugal<br />
A city of cobbled roads and<br />
colourful tram rides<br />
4<br />
SA&BEYOND
38<br />
Rishikesh, India<br />
The Beatles, meditation<br />
and a spiritual retreat on<br />
the banks of the holy<br />
Ganges River<br />
43<br />
Vietnam’s Ho<br />
Chi Minh City<br />
A heaving metropolis<br />
46<br />
Samara Private<br />
Game Reserve<br />
Rewilding the plains<br />
of Camdeboo<br />
54 Venice<br />
The Eternal City<br />
SA&BEYOND 5
Win<br />
a two night<br />
stay at<br />
Protea Hotel<br />
One lucky SA & BEYOND reader will win a<br />
2 night stay at a Protea Hotel valued at R2 100!<br />
All you have to do is share with us your most amazing experience at your favourite<br />
destination. Your story should be between 150 and 200 words and sent to<br />
admin@sa-beyond.co.za by no later than 15 November <strong>2019</strong>. Please include your<br />
full name, contact number and an accompanying picture in the e-mail. The winner<br />
will be contacted by 20 November <strong>2019</strong> and the winning story will be featured in<br />
the <strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> issue of SA & BEYOND Travel magazine. T&C’s apply.<br />
6<br />
SA&BEYOND
KLOOFZICHT<br />
LODGE & SPA<br />
NESTLED at the foothills of the Zwartkops Mountains<br />
in the Cradle of Humankind, Kloofzicht Lodge & Spa<br />
is a mere forty minute drive from both Sandton and<br />
Pretoria.<br />
The sixty bedroom lodge overlooks six exquisite flyfishing<br />
dams and the lower reaches of the Blaauwbank<br />
Spruit, as it meanders through the unspoilt Zwartkops<br />
gorge. Five-star hospitality and service are the<br />
benchmarks of Kloofzicht Lodge & Spa. With a wealth<br />
of experience in the hospitality and events arena, our<br />
innovative team is able to create exceptional, wellmanaged<br />
events.<br />
The small but magnificent nature reserve is<br />
home to kudu, impala, blue wildebeest, eland, red<br />
hartebeest, springbuck, gemsbok, zebra, giraffe as<br />
well as a fascinating array of bird life. Kloofzicht Lodge<br />
- where tranquility & elegance originate.<br />
www.kloofzicht.co.za<br />
SA&BEYOND 7
Soul Traveller<br />
Brett Shuttleworth:<br />
Creating<br />
a Ripple<br />
Effect<br />
of Love<br />
Globally<br />
Photos: Jarryd Hans Tiltma<br />
TRAVEL became an intrinsic part of<br />
Brett Shuttleworth’s lifestyle as a former<br />
international rugby player and exsupermodel<br />
who represented the most<br />
prestigious couture houses such as Gucci,<br />
Versace, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.<br />
Back then it was more about catching the wave of<br />
success, than creating a ripple effect of love in people’s<br />
lives, becoming at one point, the most marketable<br />
celebrity in South Africa.<br />
On the pinnacle of his success as a supermodel,<br />
Shuttleworth was getting asked by agents to act in<br />
Hollywood, seeing their profitability rise<br />
through<br />
his presence on the big screen.<br />
This<br />
led him to train as an actor and<br />
make<br />
the transition from New<br />
York to<br />
Los Angeles, and star as<br />
himself in<br />
the Blockbuster<br />
American Pie<br />
II.<br />
Even after having<br />
achieved fame, success and<br />
being celebrated globally, Brett<br />
was astounded that despite all his<br />
external achievements, his soul was still not<br />
smiling.<br />
He walked away from the glitz and glamour of<br />
Hollywood and went on a search for his true purpose,<br />
on a spiritual journey to find out what life is really<br />
about.<br />
After his intense spiritual journey, from spending<br />
time with world renowned religious and spiritual gurus,<br />
and engaging deeply with consciousness, his answers<br />
and purpose became crystal clear.<br />
Like the Beatles, he had been drawn to a small town<br />
nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, Rishikesh,<br />
known for ashrams and gurus who had sat on the holy<br />
banks of the Ganges River over generations, and said to<br />
have found enlightenment.<br />
Through the different approaches to life he had<br />
found there, Brett along with a friend from Belgium,<br />
had filmed<br />
a documentary incapsulating<br />
the<br />
wisdom shared by the<br />
world’s<br />
top spiritual leaders.<br />
This<br />
included the likes of<br />
Mooji,<br />
considered today,<br />
to be<br />
one of the most<br />
enlightened<br />
masters<br />
on the planet.<br />
Brett had also<br />
8<br />
SA&BEYOND
dedicated himself to studying Zen and Hojo, a Japanese<br />
Martial Arts sword-fighting technique.<br />
At the end of this quest, he returned to South Africa<br />
to launch Brett Shuttleworth as a transformational<br />
brand. Through a perfect blend of transformation and<br />
hands-on inspiration tools, culminating in the wisdom<br />
he found through his travels, he was on the path to<br />
inspiring a whole new generation of leaders.<br />
Brett quickly become known as the rockstar of<br />
transformation, with clients such as Virgin Active,<br />
Sanlam, Arcelor Mittal and Vodacom hiring his services<br />
to inspire their most relevant teams and forefront<br />
players.<br />
Today Brett has the freedom to create the exact life<br />
he wants to live, facilitating transformation for people<br />
globally, and has made travel an essential part of his<br />
lifestyle.<br />
This includes the launch of the Smiling Soul<br />
Retreats which are reaching people in a different way.<br />
The intention behind each Retreat is to expose a choice<br />
destination while integrating all of Brett’s teachings,<br />
through local cultural experiences, adventure, fun and<br />
travel. India was the launching pad for the Retreats and<br />
thereafter was followed by Bali and now, retreats also<br />
being hosted in South Africa.<br />
Next projects include Incentive Programmes and<br />
Customised Yatras (retreats on yachts) for professional<br />
teams who want a personalised experience designed,<br />
while having a great time.<br />
As a visionary, Brett shares his wisdom with anyone<br />
who is seeking enlightenment, peace, success and<br />
optimal happy living, from the man on the street, to<br />
corporate clients, sports teams and elite performers, to<br />
individuals who work with him through the coaching<br />
that he offers.<br />
People often ask Brett how he changes someone’s<br />
life and what he is pointing them towards.<br />
“To me crossing the river from the outside world<br />
to the inside world, is where and how you discover<br />
your true self. It is a loving intelligence and intelligent<br />
love that exists beyond the senses, beyond the mind<br />
and body. We want to make the spiritual process<br />
mainstream. Something beyond body and mind should<br />
become a living experience for everyone in the world.”<br />
“If I did not see evidence of my work changing<br />
people’s lives, I wouldn’t do it, why would I want to?<br />
I know for a fact that within each and every one of<br />
us, there is this marvellous knowing: that we are<br />
destined for greatness and the expression of our<br />
highest selves to the world. It is a self that you<br />
haven’t been trained to believe in; you’ve been<br />
trained to believe in your ordinary awareness.<br />
My mission is<br />
to guide you back<br />
to your source<br />
of extraordinary<br />
potential, thereby<br />
creating a ripple<br />
effect of love across the<br />
globe.”<br />
To book Brett Shuttleworth or join<br />
one of his retreats email info@brettshuttleworth.com<br />
or visit www.smilingsoulretreats.com<br />
SA&BEYOND 9
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Thanda Safari<br />
- a place of wilderness and wildlife<br />
10<br />
SA&BEYOND<br />
Aerial Perspective<br />
Photo: Christian Sperka Photography
DAWN JOGENSEN<br />
TIME in the bush offers a welcome reprieve<br />
from everyday life, a reconnect with nature<br />
and an opportunity to be reminded of the<br />
fragile cycle of nature, and the conservation<br />
teams set in place to protect it. Which meant<br />
that an invitation to spend a few nights at Thanda Safari<br />
in Kwa Zulu Natal was hastily accepted.<br />
Offering richly rewarding game drives, sundowners<br />
overlooking the valleys and hills, bush walks and<br />
tracking on foot - the 14,000-hectare wilderness reserve<br />
is home to a range of animals, including cheetahs,<br />
hyenas, giraffe, warthog and abundant bird and plant<br />
life. Together with a strong community and conservation<br />
commitment, Thanda is steeped in Zulu history with the<br />
Mduna Royal Reserve, part owned by the Zulu King,<br />
being part of the greater Thanda Private Game Reserve,<br />
linking conservation, history and Zulu culture.<br />
Thanda Safari Lodge Photo: Christian Sperka Photography<br />
Elephants on Game Drive Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
(Below) Traditional Zulu dancers Photo: Christian Sperka<br />
Photography<br />
Thanda Safari Accommodation<br />
Meaning ‘love’ in isiZulu, Thanda Safari offers three<br />
different styles of accommodation.<br />
Thanda Safari Lodge offers 9 suites circular in<br />
structure and reminiscent of a traditional Zulu Rondavel<br />
homestead, each with their own spacious lounge area<br />
and master bedroom with double-sided fireplace,<br />
bathroom complete with an oval shaped bath and indoor<br />
and outdoor showers. They also feature an elevated sala<br />
outdoor deck, heated plunge pool and private boma<br />
for an intimate dining experience. Here you’ll find the<br />
Thanda Spa with its two treatment rooms and range of<br />
world-class treatments.<br />
For a luxurious safari villa experience, Villa iZulu,<br />
the private bush home of the owners is available on<br />
an exclusive-use basis. Sleeping up to 10 in 5 suites,<br />
it comprises a library, wine cellar, playroom, heated<br />
swimming pool, Jacuzzi, an outdoor boma and has its<br />
own helicopter pad. Fully serviced and with dedicated<br />
staff, this magnificent villa is set within a beautiful, fully<br />
SA&BEYOND 11
fenced garden ideal for younger guests to play safely.<br />
Striking a balance between old and new, I stayed<br />
at Thanda Tented Camp with its romantic ambience<br />
reminiscent of a bygone era. Lit by paraffin lanterns, all<br />
15 Hemingway-styled canvas tents have wooden decks,<br />
whilst the Jabula Tent features a separate lounge, splash<br />
pool and its own boma. The camp has a large rim-flow<br />
pool, a waterhole sala from where to watch the animals<br />
come in to drink and a boma for dining under the<br />
African stars.<br />
Game Viewing within the Reserve<br />
Early morning and late afternoon game drives and bush<br />
walks are offered as you seek out the reserve’s resident<br />
wildlife. During my stay, my guide Buselaphi with tracker<br />
Wyneth pointed out giraffe, nyala, zebra, wildebeest,<br />
warthog, lion and elephant. On the bird front there were<br />
African hoopoe, glossy starling, hornbill, woolly necked<br />
stalks, brown snake eagle and European rollers, to name<br />
but a few.<br />
We spoke of tree species, the diverse varieties of grass<br />
and the use of rubbing posts by rhino and elephants, as<br />
well as the essential anti-poaching efforts required to<br />
protect the more vulnerable species. At Thanda all rhino<br />
is dehorned as an added precaution.<br />
On the one game drive we spent time with a bigmaned<br />
male lion who’s roar reverberated across the<br />
reserve. There’s not much that resonates more with the<br />
bush for me, than the sound of a lion’s roar. It comes<br />
from the core and once released, echoes through the<br />
plains. The intensity vibrating deep into the mind, and<br />
soul.<br />
Unique to Thanda Safari is their day ‘In the Path<br />
of Wildlife’ program that allows guests to get involved<br />
with game counts, fence checking and even assisting<br />
with necessary veterinary procedures. Those who wish<br />
to delve further into the Zulu culture will be invited by<br />
their guide to see his village, spend time with a Sangoma<br />
or join the school children at a ‘Star for Life’ school.<br />
Owned by Swedish philanthropists Christin and Dan<br />
Olofsson who obtained the land 17 years ago taking two<br />
years to return it to wilderness before opening, Thanda<br />
Safari has grown to employ over 200 staff members,<br />
while reintroducing to the area all the wildlife that once<br />
naturally occurred here.<br />
While I was there, Wildlife Coordinator Mariana<br />
Venter, who oversees game management on the<br />
property had recently had an influx of funds put to good<br />
use increasing the number of plains game in the reserve<br />
and introducing some young cheetah to the land. I was<br />
lucky enough to be there as the one female cheetah<br />
was released into the reserve after her mandatory stay<br />
acclimatising in the boma, taking her first tentative<br />
steps into her new home. Today months later she thrives<br />
in her adopted environment.<br />
Thanda Safari offers considered accommodation and<br />
warm hospitality, an authentic wildlife experience with<br />
excellent game viewing and a sincere commitment to the<br />
Zulu culture and conservation of the environment.<br />
Here the creatures own the earth and lucky for us,<br />
we’re free to visit them anytime we choose.<br />
Thanda Tented Camp - Jabula Tent Interior<br />
Dung Beetle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
King of the jungle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
12<br />
SA&BEYOND
Thanda Tented Camp - Front view of Tents<br />
The Essential Details<br />
Contact Details: Connect with Thanda<br />
Safari for rates and additional information<br />
at reservations@thanda.co.za | Tel: +27<br />
(0) 32 586 0149 | www.thandasafari.co.za<br />
Location: Thanda Safari is situated<br />
23km north of Hluhluwe on the N2<br />
approximately 220km north of Durban<br />
and is easily accessible from the N2 by<br />
gravel road. Richards Bay is the closest<br />
commercial airport, with King Shaka<br />
International Airport, Durban being<br />
the closest international airport. Road<br />
transfers can be arranged on request.<br />
In addition: Be sure to check packages<br />
and special offers. SADC country residents<br />
enjoy year-round reduced rates. Thanda<br />
is five-star accredited and a Leading<br />
Hotels of the World member. Children are<br />
welcome.<br />
Loving cheetahs Photo: Christian Sperka Photography<br />
Thirsty water buffalo Photo: Christian Sperka Photography<br />
SA&BEYOND 13
Photo: NadyaEugene/Shutterstock<br />
The Multi-Generational<br />
Holiday Trend<br />
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
WITH the hectic pace of life and<br />
demanding schedules making for<br />
days packed with commitments as<br />
we balance work and home life, it’s<br />
no surprise that the travel industry<br />
is seeing a rise in family focussed holidays. Not only<br />
are parents wanting to spend relaxed quality time with<br />
their children, but they’re also looking to share their<br />
annual leave with the grandparents, maximising on<br />
the value of time together and turning it into a multigenerational<br />
bonding opportunity that compensates for<br />
an otherwise hectically paced existence.<br />
Off the grid safari itineraries are being requested<br />
in a bid to put families back in touch with each other –<br />
and the basics – and have the group sharing stories as<br />
they gather around the dinner table or open fire each<br />
evening, relating anecdotal accounts of both modernand<br />
early-day travels.<br />
Accommodations both in the city and in country<br />
settings are designing and adding family rooms,<br />
offering children’s programs and even having in-house<br />
babysitters. It’s recommended that you check with your<br />
tour operator the difference between ‘accepts children’<br />
and ‘child friendly’ when making your booking. In fact,<br />
exclusive home rental has been identified as one of the<br />
top travel trends for <strong>2019</strong> by Conde Nast Traveller,<br />
with families pooling together to rent homes away from<br />
home for an extended period and adventuring from<br />
there.<br />
The age dynamic may mean that matching interests<br />
14<br />
SA&BEYOND
Photo: Yuganov Konstantin/Shutterstock<br />
for all three groups can be challenging. You are<br />
likely to find the parents out on adventures while the<br />
grandparents hang out with the young grandchildren;<br />
or relaxed time for the grandparents while the parents<br />
and children head off on excursions. There’s something<br />
for everybody though, from the rich culture found in<br />
newly discovered cities, the hierarchy of nature, cultural<br />
appreciation and the breaking down of barriers, both<br />
within the family group and through the destinations<br />
they visit.<br />
Further fuelling this interest, Airbnb has launched<br />
a selection of social impact experiences, a positive to<br />
explore new communities by partaking in inspiring<br />
activities that support local non-profit causes. Ideal<br />
for families wanting to learn about wildlife or ocean<br />
conservation, spend a few hours walking shelter dogs or<br />
going trekking with a Masai guide. Incorporating the<br />
practice and lesson of giving back as they go.<br />
Whatever you opt for and wherever you’re next<br />
headed, create opportunities for quality time with<br />
your loved ones while building forever memories and<br />
being reminded of what really matters. You’ll find it<br />
adds wonder and depth to your holiday and is equally<br />
rewarding for all.<br />
Planning your family holiday?<br />
Some Useful Tips<br />
Let choosing your holiday destination be a<br />
combined effort. Talk about the places and<br />
options, and what you will do and see there. It<br />
helps build the anticipation once the decision<br />
is made and the countdown to departure<br />
begins.<br />
Look at maps, blog posts and guidebooks<br />
together to help all three generations<br />
understand where you will be travelling to<br />
in relation to home, activities on offer and<br />
accommodation choices.<br />
Encourage learning about the people and<br />
culture that you’ll be exposed to, as well as<br />
how to say, ‘thank you’ and ‘please’ in the<br />
language of the destination that you will visit.<br />
It goes a long way.<br />
Support the ‘why’. We know that travel brings<br />
many lessons and the sooner children are open to<br />
these benefits, the better. Let them ask how far,<br />
how long, names of attractions and the people they<br />
will meet each day.<br />
Give children and grandparents cameras – or<br />
phones – and encourage them to take photos<br />
of whatever interests them, whether it be the<br />
architecture, cars, food, animals or scenery – and<br />
especially each other. At the end of the trip, get<br />
together over a meal and let each photographer<br />
share what they found most interesting. There is no<br />
age limit to this method of storytelling. Printing a<br />
photo book of the best of them makes a wonderful<br />
keepsake.<br />
Write a journal, share anecdotes over dinner at<br />
the end of each day, learn new things, be open and<br />
respectful to those who will host you – and each<br />
other, and you’ll find the greatest gift of all will be<br />
the conversations and quality time with each other.<br />
SA&BEYOND 15
MOROCCO<br />
MARRAKECH<br />
Exploring Morocco’s Pink City<br />
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
Souk dried spices Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
COLOURFUL, vibrant and mystical, the<br />
very word Marrakech conjures up images<br />
of a flaming desert city; an exotic place<br />
of sensory overload with alluring sights,<br />
sounds, and flavours.<br />
One of Morocco’s oldest and most captivating<br />
cities, the former Imperial metropolis is today a major<br />
economic hub that has successfully maintained its Old-<br />
World charm.<br />
Fondly referred to as the ‘pink or red city’ due to its<br />
buildings – old and new – that have been constructed<br />
using red earth found in the surrounding hills. The<br />
shade of pink is somehow never too light or too solid,<br />
rather soft when the sun doesn’t shine, and invitingly<br />
warm in direct sunlight.<br />
At the heart of Marrakech is the walled medieval<br />
medina that dates back to the Berber Empire. Allow<br />
yourself to get lost in its maze-like alleys with its heady<br />
aromas and many market stores. Here you will find<br />
amazing deals on finely-crafted leather sandals and<br />
bags plus brightly-coloured baskets, spices, brass-<br />
16<br />
SA&BEYOND
Sunset over the Souks of Marrakech Morocco Photo: iStock (Below) Koutoubia Mosque tower Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
ware and glassware. Remember to brush up on your<br />
bargaining techniques. Shop for handwoven rugs,<br />
painted ceramics bowls, stain glass lamps, envyinducing<br />
tiles and ‘Fatima Hands’ in every shade of<br />
good luck.<br />
Savour the sounds of traditional drums on the<br />
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square and hear the muezzin’s call to<br />
prayer at the many mosques. Watch skilled<br />
craftsmen at work in the Souks and take a<br />
guide to introduce to you the school, mosque,<br />
bakery and fountains of the inner medina<br />
communities. A journey into the city takes<br />
you back in time as you scout its numerous<br />
alleys, always guided by the ochre red walls<br />
that will lead you home.<br />
Visit ‘La Maison de la<br />
Photographie’ House of Photography<br />
in Jamaa Lfna, a fascinating archive<br />
of photographs of Morocco taken by<br />
anonymous travellers and famous<br />
photographers between 1870 and<br />
1960. The House of Photography<br />
opened in 2009 and offers<br />
charming insight into the evolution<br />
of the ochre city, going up to the<br />
roof is a must.<br />
Walk the Avenue Mohammed<br />
V, Marrakech’s high street, with<br />
its luxury stores, hotels and<br />
restaurants. Enjoy endless cups<br />
of sweet mint tea and pause for<br />
a refreshing freshly squeezed<br />
orange juice from one of the many<br />
vendors.<br />
A symbol of the city is the<br />
Moorish minaret of 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque.<br />
Easily visible given a local ordinance that forbids any<br />
other building in the Medina to be taller than a palm<br />
tree, leaving the Koutoubia Mosque towering over<br />
the city. Know that non-muslims may not enter the<br />
mosque, however you are welcome to walk around the<br />
exterior and enjoy the Koutoubia gardens.<br />
Possibly one of the most visited sites in the city and<br />
the place to fall in love with true Majorelle blue, is<br />
the Jardin Marjorelle. A two-and-a-half-acre<br />
artist’s landscape garden in Marrakech that<br />
was created by the French Orientalist artist,<br />
Jacques Majorelle over a period of forty years.<br />
Acquired by him in 1923, it features a Cubist<br />
villa that was designed by the French<br />
architect, Paul Sinoir in the 1930s.<br />
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre<br />
Bergé went on to buy the Jardin<br />
Majorelle in 1980, saving it from<br />
falling victim to a real estate project<br />
and becoming a hotel complex.<br />
They decided to live in the Villa<br />
Bou Saf Saf, which they renamed<br />
Villa Oasis, and undertook the<br />
restoration of the garden in order<br />
to ‘make the Jardin Majorelle<br />
become the most beautiful garden<br />
– by respecting the vision of<br />
Jacques Majorelle.’<br />
Next to it is the impressive<br />
Musée Yves Saint Laurent<br />
Marrakech, which houses many<br />
of his designs, accessories,<br />
sketches and a collection of<br />
photos during his long and<br />
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those looking to leave behind their reality and escape to<br />
the delight that is this seductive city.<br />
Food Stall on Jemaa el-Fnaa Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
Djem al Fnaa Square Photo: jemaa-el-fna.com<br />
More of Magical Morocco<br />
One of North Africa’s most popular destinations<br />
and famous for its bustling cities, incredible history<br />
and pristine desert landscapes, there is something in<br />
Morocco for everybody with its four imperial cities<br />
namely Marrakesh, Fes, Meknes, and Rabat, the<br />
country’s capital. Although a modern city, Rabat has<br />
several interesting historical attractions such as the<br />
Kasbah of the Udayas, the Hassan Tower and gleaming<br />
Royal Mausoleum.<br />
Casablanca boasts The Hassan II Mosque, the<br />
largest mosque in Africa and the 5th largest in the<br />
world, which can accommodate as many as 25 000<br />
people. A visit to the port city would not be complete<br />
without a meal at Rick’s Café, made famous by the<br />
classic namesake film starring Humphrey Bogart and<br />
Ingrid Bergman.<br />
Morocco’s Atlas Mountains beckon escape and<br />
discovery with their ancient Berber villages and<br />
popular walking routes, while the vast and arid Sahara<br />
Desert, the world’s largest hot desert can be accessed<br />
from several places in Morocco. For the beach lover,<br />
Morocco borders both the Mediterranean Sea and<br />
the Atlantic Ocean, with Tangier and Agadir popular<br />
coastal destinations, and smaller Essaouira and<br />
Taghazout drawing avid surfers each year.<br />
Chefchaouen in northwest Morocco, is arguably<br />
the most photographed place in the Kingdom, known<br />
for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town<br />
where leather and weaving workshops line its steep<br />
cobbled lanes.<br />
18<br />
Berber Village Photo: mountains-adventure.com<br />
inspired career, as well as his connection with this city<br />
he understandably, so loved.<br />
Enjoy a sunset from a Marrakechi rooftop<br />
overlooking Djem al Fnaa Square. These rooftop bars<br />
serve mocktails and mint tea, moreish mezze platters<br />
and delicious tajine dishes. On the outskirts of the city,<br />
marked by the outline of the Atlas Mountains, discover<br />
Berber villages, occasional street art and numerous<br />
ways to relax into an otherwise busy day.<br />
A city of romance, mysticism, theatricals and<br />
royalty, Marrakesh lends a rose-tinted view to the world<br />
and is the ideal destination for adventure seekers and<br />
SA&BEYOND<br />
The Essential Details for booking<br />
your visit to Marrakech<br />
Getting there: The Marrakech Menara<br />
Airport services a multitude of airlines.<br />
From South Africa consider an easy connect<br />
via Europe, or a stopover in Casablanca,<br />
which is serviced by Qatar Airlines, SAA and<br />
Emirates. Internally Royal Air Maroc, the<br />
National carrier, is an excellent option.<br />
Accommodation: Rivalling for top spot are<br />
the Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech and<br />
Hotel La Mamounia. For a more traditional<br />
style of accommodation book into one of the<br />
charming Riads found in the heart of the<br />
Medina or consider an Airbnb apartment –<br />
some have rooftop terraces.<br />
Visas: South African Passport holders<br />
require a visa to visit Morocco.<br />
Language: The official languages are Arabic<br />
and Berber, English is widely spoken in<br />
Marrakech.<br />
Don’t miss: Sweet mint tea, locally known<br />
as Maghrebi mint tea, available throughout<br />
the city.
@branzed87<br />
SA&BEYOND 19
Artisanal<br />
food<br />
markets<br />
a hot item<br />
in Nelson<br />
Mandela<br />
Bay<br />
PORT Elizabeth residents and visitors are<br />
spoilt for choice when it comes to artisanal<br />
food markets that provide an interactive,<br />
creative platform for them to socialise and try<br />
some new and interesting food.<br />
With markets rapidly growing in Nelson Mandela<br />
Bay in the last five years, people have an array of<br />
options to choose from that should suit their individual<br />
tastebuds and support locally made products.<br />
Bay economic development executive director<br />
Anele Qaba said on Sunday that the markets in<br />
the city provided a platform not only for smaller<br />
businesses, but also for buying local products which<br />
created opportunities for more jobs and economic<br />
opportunities.<br />
“Markets are becoming increasingly popular in<br />
Nelson Mandela Bay with more and more people<br />
finding value in buying local,” Qaba said.<br />
“The Bay’s markets cover various niches, tastes, and<br />
products – so mark your calendar,” he said.<br />
Some of the different markets found in the city include:<br />
ART IN THE PARK – Port Elizabeth’s oldest market<br />
is held on the last Sunday of every month. Stalls include<br />
art, craft, food, plants, toys, collectibles and bric-a-brac.<br />
The market takes place at St George’s Park from 9am to<br />
2pm and entry is free.<br />
LOCALLY YOURS MARKET – All about products<br />
that are handmade, grown, crafted, cooked, baked<br />
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and designed right here in the Eastern Cape by local<br />
entrepreneurs who invite residents to #supportlocal<br />
and #livelocal.<br />
Entrance is free in lieu of an optional donation<br />
to the Animal Anti-Cruelty League. It is held at the<br />
Tramways Building from 9am to 3pm on the first<br />
Saturday of the month.<br />
THE GOOD NIGHT MARKET – A monthly gathering<br />
at the Tramways Building of the metro’s top artisanal<br />
food vendors, which is open to the public on the last<br />
Thursday night of the month. Live music acts perform<br />
on selected evenings. Entry is R20 and the event is<br />
from 5pm to 9pm<br />
KINGS BEACH FLEA MARKET – The ideal spot for<br />
an enjoyable outing with the family every Sunday.<br />
Vendors sell goods ranging from books and art to<br />
toys and African curios at the beachfront, from early<br />
morning to late afternoon.<br />
THE RESECOND MARKET – An upmarket secondhand<br />
market that focuses on recycled and reused items<br />
but also exhibits local crafts and street food stalls.<br />
The market aims to create awareness around going<br />
green, being environmentally friendly and sustainable<br />
living on the last Sunday of every month at the Walmer<br />
Town Hall from 9am to 2pm.<br />
BACK TO EARTH NIGHT MARKET – At the Old<br />
Grey Sports Club, this market has stalls selling natural,<br />
hand-made clothing, gifts, jewellery, deli food and fresh<br />
produce as well as indigenous trees from 4pm-8pm.<br />
WINDSONG BOHEMIAN MARKET – A quarterly,<br />
seasonal niche that does not allow any massproduced<br />
products. Everything must be handmade, homegrown<br />
or recycled into something new, quirky and unusual.<br />
The market takes place at 142 Villiers Road in Walmer.<br />
SARDS MARKET IN THE PARK – Also called the<br />
Bark Park Market, this market features vendors with<br />
homemade items, homegrown goods, fresh food, food<br />
trucks, arts and crafts, and gifts. There is also live<br />
music, jumping castles and other activities. The market<br />
takes place on the third or fourth Saturday of the<br />
month at the Sardinia Bay Valley Sards Bark Park from<br />
9am-1pm.<br />
LADY SLIPPER FARMERS MARKET – The<br />
Greenbushes-based event boasts freshly made food,<br />
affordable custom clothes, live music and a play area for<br />
kids while parents shop away. The market takes place<br />
at the NG Kerk Vanstandensrivier grounds from 9am-<br />
1pm in winter and opens in summer from 8am-12pm<br />
THE UITENHAGE MARKET – More than 150 stalls,<br />
live music, children’s entertainment and a variety of<br />
food make for an enjoyable family outing every first<br />
Sunday of the month at Willow Dam from 9am-3pm.<br />
SA&BEYOND 21
INDIA<br />
A Coastal<br />
Adventure:<br />
Mahé opens<br />
its doors in<br />
Goa - India<br />
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ANJUNA, once a sleepy coastal village<br />
popularized by the hippie movement, is<br />
now turning into a hub for varied food<br />
and beverage experiences. At Mahé, find<br />
yourself floating in a warm, inviting new<br />
space that modernizes the coastal culinary experience.<br />
Mahé, a collaboration between Parth Timbadia<br />
and Chef Sandeep Sreedharan, brings together<br />
contemporary nuances and familiar food to pay a<br />
stunning tribute to the vast Indian coastline.<br />
Located in Anjuna, Mahé celebrates Chef Sandeep’s<br />
childhood culinary experiences in the picturesque<br />
town, formerly a French Territory. Coupled with his<br />
travel experiences and Parth Timbadia’s two-decadelong<br />
expertise in the hospitality sector, their vision<br />
at Mahé brings together the best of the coast in a<br />
carefully updated century-old Portuguese house for the<br />
perfect dining experience. “It’s all about a confluence<br />
of ingredients and techniques used in the area to bring<br />
out simple rustic dishes in a way they have not been<br />
introduced before,” say the partners about the venture.<br />
Designed by the award-winning team at OCD<br />
– Office of Cognitive Design, the space plays with<br />
modern thematic contrasts while keeping traces of<br />
the 19th Century Indo-Portuguese splendour intact.<br />
The main house offers two different spaces – the<br />
Blush (bar) & Jade (dining) rooms with light, breezy<br />
elements that create an intimate dining experience<br />
along with statement bars. Guests can also enjoy an<br />
al-fresco dining experience in a large garden space<br />
that brings out the quintessential Goa experience with<br />
white pebbles and lush, varied foliage. The inherently<br />
voluminous characteristic and painstakingly restored<br />
portion of the home lend the place a nostalgic, warm<br />
vibe. In addition, minimalist French pastel highlights,<br />
Scandinavian inspired details and modern Indian<br />
digital art bring out a fresh, modern lightness.<br />
Reflecting the same philosophy of familiarity<br />
together with contemporary lightness, the food<br />
celebrates the fresh, seasonal produce, classic favorites,<br />
and easy plating. Ease into the Mahé experience with a<br />
range of Small Plates – stuffed morels with street style<br />
potato jus, confit yam with cherry tomatoes, pickled<br />
mussels in EV coconut oil, steamed fish, red snapper<br />
ceviche, chorizo with a poached egg or slow cooked<br />
mackerel with fresh plums among others. Or opt for<br />
specialities straight off the grill where you pair your<br />
seafood – fish, prawns, lobster, & squid and vegetarian<br />
options – paneer, mushroom, baby corn & tapioca with<br />
region-specific sauces from the West Coast, East Coast<br />
and Sri Lanka.<br />
Glorifying refined regional flavours, the Large<br />
Plates at Mahé create a captivating experience. Take<br />
a trip with the slow cooked lamb with tapioca mash<br />
& consommé and the fish with moilee foam. Or enjoy<br />
classic favourites that include chicken chettinad, green<br />
Previous page clockwise: Crispy Okra with Pickles; Ossified<br />
Mrs Grundy; Mahe Goa; Preserved Aubergine Rechaedo with<br />
poie<br />
Chef Sandeep Sreedharan<br />
Parth Timbadia<br />
moong curry, fish pulimulagu and Mahé prawn curry<br />
with dosas, string hoppers, appams or rice.<br />
A coastal experience is incomplete without a<br />
complementing Bar Program that captures the essence<br />
of the location. Little details like creating clear ice<br />
blocks and perfecting an in-house vermouth elevate<br />
the Mahé cocktail experience. Signature regional<br />
favourites express and pay homage to the terroir of the<br />
land and include drinks like Negroni de Goa where<br />
chiretta leaves are infused into Campari and served<br />
along with cashew feni and house-made vermouth,<br />
Mahua Spritz, Kokum Shrub made with coconut feni,<br />
artisanal coconut vinegar and kokum and the Mallu<br />
Mai Tai made with chilli spiced rum, house velvet<br />
SA&BEYOND 23
Gimlet<br />
falernum, Malabar tamarind tincture, orgeat, fresh<br />
lime and pineapple. The creator of the bar program<br />
at Mahé, Abhishek George also brings in a selection<br />
from The Spiffy Dapper – his cocktail bar in Singapore.<br />
Experience options like Sheikh on the Level – black tea<br />
gin, cardamom, fresh lemon, brown sugar & egg whites,<br />
Glad Rags Sheela made with straight bourbon, apple &<br />
cinnamon and Ossified Mrs Grundy – a mix of cherry<br />
tomato vodka, house spiced bitters & fresh lemon.<br />
If you’re going down the classic route, everything<br />
from The Old Fashioned and The Manhattan to the<br />
Gimlet and Margarita is made with love and attentive<br />
little touches like the in-house lemon juice created<br />
from a proprietary blend of indigenous citrus fruits.<br />
Best enjoyed with curated bar bites that include Crispy<br />
Okra, Tapioca Bravas, Kerala Beef Fry and Crispy Fried<br />
Sardines, the bar experience at Mahé is sure to bring in<br />
waves of contentment.<br />
Flavours from the coast have come calling and the<br />
best way to experience them is to do so at a place where<br />
the joy flows from the kitchen right onto each and every<br />
plate. Let the inherent beauty of Goa and the magic of<br />
a coastal culinary experience take over as you go the<br />
Mahé way.<br />
Timings: 11:30 am to 3:30 pm and Dinner: 6:30 pm to<br />
11:30 pm<br />
Contact No.: +91 97658 74858<br />
Address: House 1111, Anjuna Arpora Road, Mazal<br />
Waddo, Anjuna, Goa<br />
Facebook & Instagram Handle: @mahegoa<br />
Slow cooked Mackerel with Plums<br />
Kerela Beef Fry<br />
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www.africanextracts.gr<br />
SA&BEYOND 27
28<br />
SA&BEYOND<br />
Northern Cape
Explore the Routes<br />
www.africanextracts.gr<br />
SA&BEYOND 29
Northern Cape - South Africa<br />
EXTRAORDINARY HOLIDAY EXPERIENCES FOR ALL!<br />
AN AGELESS LAND, where countless generations of desert people have left their collective footprint. Endless skies, amber dune-scapes, and a<br />
Great River, all set within a landscape brimming with dramatic beauty. And people so real, you will feel the vibration of Mother Nature when they<br />
shake your hand. This is the Northern Cape – REAL CULTURE, REAL PEOPLE AND REAL NATURE. Now come and experience it for yourselves and<br />
make memories to last a lifetime.<br />
FIVE MUST DO REASONS TO CHOOSE THE NORTHERN CAPE AS YOUR NEXT SOUTHERN AFRICAN HOLIDAY DESTINATION:<br />
REWARDING<br />
CULTURAL<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
EXPERIENCES OFF<br />
THE BEATEN TRACK<br />
FAMILY<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
EXPERIENCES<br />
NATURAL BEAUTY<br />
AND WILDLIFE<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
EXPERIENCES<br />
A FLORAL<br />
EXPERIENCE<br />
The distinct cultural groups that<br />
make up the Northern Cape are as<br />
rich as the country’s history. Unlock<br />
the secrets of the African bush in<br />
the company of the oldest human<br />
inhabitants of the region, the<br />
‡Khomani San near the Kgalagadi<br />
Transfrontier Park. Swim in the hot<br />
pools of Riemvasmaak, discover<br />
the ancient wisdom of the Nama of<br />
the Richtersveld, a world heritage<br />
site. Explore living villages, shop at<br />
craft markets, indulge in regional<br />
authentic cuisine at local eateries<br />
and be transported to the world<br />
of our ancestors through campfire<br />
storytelling and dancing. It’s the best<br />
way to experience the heartbeat of<br />
the province and to take some of the<br />
soul of the Northern Cape with you<br />
on your return journey home.<br />
For the active, it’s an ideal<br />
environment for exploration and<br />
adventure. We have an awe-inspiring<br />
setting for any enthusiast. Whether<br />
you are stargazing in Sutherland,<br />
hunting for fossils in the Karoo or<br />
searching for San rock art deep in<br />
the caves of the Diamond Fields,<br />
experiencing the world’s richest<br />
floral offering in Namakwa, camping<br />
deep in the bush surrounded by<br />
wildlife and the famed blackmaned<br />
lion of the Green Kalahari, or<br />
Kayaking down the mighty Orange<br />
River, the Northern Cape is more<br />
than an adventure, it’s an enriching<br />
life experience.<br />
The Northern Cape has always been<br />
a family- friendly destination. Its<br />
mix of culture, adventure, wildlife<br />
and wide accommodation choices,<br />
offers family fun that is both<br />
entertaining and educational. The<br />
province is home to six national<br />
parks and two of the country’s<br />
largest rivers, which makes it<br />
perfect for fun activities the entire<br />
family can enjoy. These include<br />
game safaris, bird watching and<br />
leisure hikes and walks to safaris,<br />
museum visits and archaeological<br />
discoveries to disconnect reconnect<br />
and rediscover!<br />
The Northern Cape is arguably<br />
South Africa’s most beautiful and<br />
naturally real province. Visitors are<br />
hard-pressed to choose between<br />
our UNESCO Richtersveld World<br />
Heritage Site and two Transfrontier<br />
Parks, the Kgalagadi and the |Ai-<br />
|Ais Richtersveld with its red and<br />
golden sand dunes. Share the<br />
intimate bush knowledge of a Nama<br />
or San Bushmen guide/tracker. The<br />
Northern Cape’s natural beauty is<br />
enhanced by it’s an iconic wildlife.<br />
From the small five to the big five,<br />
watching wild animals at dose range<br />
is something truly unforgettable.<br />
There are walking, horseback, 4x4,<br />
little five and many more safaris to<br />
incorporate in your trip in one of<br />
the 6 provincial reserves or any of<br />
the other four national parks and<br />
transfrontier parks.<br />
Each spring, the dormant and arid<br />
winter plains of the Northern Cape’s<br />
Namakwa region are transformed<br />
into a kaleidoscope of color with<br />
the arrival of the flower season. The<br />
wild flowers of the Namakwa are<br />
definitely a natural phenomenon<br />
and best discovered on foot, which<br />
makes it ultimately appealing to<br />
hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.<br />
As the only arid hotspot in the world<br />
this region contains more than 6 000<br />
plant species, 250 species of birds,<br />
78 species of mammals, 132 species<br />
of reptiles and amphibians and an<br />
unknown number of insects, making<br />
it the world’s most diverse, arid<br />
environment. This floral diversity<br />
has also made the Namakwa the<br />
richest bulb flora arid region in the<br />
world. Best times to visit is end July<br />
to early <strong>October</strong>. A dedicated hotline<br />
in operation from 1 August to 30<br />
September will provide insights to<br />
flower hotspots and flower sighting<br />
updates, call the flower hotline on<br />
+27 (0)79 294 7260<br />
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Explore the Routes<br />
MEMORIES THAT WILL STAY WITH YOU FOREVER.<br />
SPECIFICALLY PACKAGED to give the visitor an easy do-it-yourself option to explore the province. Incredible year-round experiences coupled with<br />
warm hospitality, the peace and tranquility offered by off-the-beaten track towns and villages as well as uninterrupted spaces, allow visitors to<br />
recharge and reconnect with loved ones.<br />
CAPE TO NAMIBIA ROUTE<br />
The route meanders away from the N7<br />
and include small towns such as Garies,<br />
Kamieskroon, Springbok, Okiep, Steinkopf and<br />
Vioolsdrift. Each with its own local flavour and<br />
a story to tell. The N7 highway stretches from<br />
Cape Town all the way through the Northern<br />
Cape before heading into neighboring country<br />
Namibia. Crossing from the Western Cape into<br />
the Northern Cape, visitors will encounter<br />
towns which capture the Nama heritage of<br />
the province. Slow down and appreciate the<br />
unique stories of the people of the Northern<br />
Cape. During spring time, this route takes<br />
visitors into the core of the floral kaleidoscope<br />
that is the Namakwa floral season.<br />
Contact: +27 (0) 53 833 1434<br />
marketing@experiencenortherncape.com<br />
GO GHAAP ROUTE<br />
The Northern Cape has a fascinating new<br />
heritage route, covering everything from<br />
famous archaeological sites, historic towns,<br />
amazing architecture and excellent selection<br />
of nature and game reserves. Visitors will be<br />
drawn to fascinating historical and geological<br />
sites in and around towns such as Postmasburg,<br />
Griquatown, Campbell, Olifantshoek, Dibeng,<br />
Kathu, Danielskuil and Kuruman. Wonderwerk<br />
Caves between Kuruman and Danielskuil. The<br />
Khoisan history in Wildebeest Kuil near Barkly<br />
West. Kuruman Eye in Kuruman is a natural<br />
spring delivering about 20-million litres of<br />
clean, clear water daily to Kuruman. Donkey<br />
cart ride, great food, and unhurried wining and<br />
dining are still a reality at DoringDraad Deben<br />
Kontrei. The historical Moffat Mission station<br />
in Kuruman. The grave of early-1800s Griqua<br />
leader Andries Waterboer, with two cannons<br />
that were gifts from Queen Victoria guarding<br />
his final resting place. Mary Moffat Museum in<br />
Griquatown. Witsand Nature Reserve between<br />
Postmasburg and Kuruman.<br />
Contact: +27 (0)83 274 5461<br />
karoo@intekom.co.za<br />
KALAHARI RED DUNE ROUTE<br />
Discover the essence of the province in the<br />
heart of the Kalahari. Golden dunes, wide-open<br />
skies and flat-topped acacia trees epitomise<br />
the Kalahari Red Dune Route. Stretching from<br />
Upington right to the Namibian border, visitors<br />
traverse the villages of Ashkam, Groot and<br />
Klein Mier and Rietfontein. Adventure-loving<br />
families and adrenaline seekers can enjoy<br />
dune hikes at dawn, eagle- owl encounters,<br />
sand duning and surfing in the red sand,<br />
close encounters with meerkats and guided<br />
walks with the !Khomani San to rediscover the<br />
ancient wisdom, customs and folklore of this<br />
ancient tribe.<br />
Contact: +27 (0)82 492 3469<br />
lochmaree@absamail.co.za<br />
KAROO HIGHLANDS ROUTE<br />
This route covers the southern part of<br />
the province and the small Karoo towns<br />
of Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia, Williston,<br />
Sutherland, Fraserburg, Carnarvon, Loxton<br />
and Victoria West and forms the heart of the<br />
Great Karoo. Enjoy the peace and tranquillity<br />
of the Karoo with its wide open plains dotted<br />
with koppies (hills).<br />
The area was named by the Khoi and San<br />
people, who left their legacy as art on the rocks.<br />
Explore many unique experiences such as<br />
stargazing at the world’s largest astronomical<br />
observatory at Sutherland, the SKA radio<br />
telescopes in Carnarvon, Karoo architecture<br />
and corbelled houses, Anglo-Boer War sites,<br />
rock art, ancient Palaeo Surfaces, farm stays<br />
and great Karoo cuisine and hospitality.<br />
Contact: +27 (0) 72 018 7288,<br />
pieter.naude@hotmail.com<br />
KAROO OASIS ROUTE<br />
The route traverse through the towns of<br />
the Northern Cape along the N12 including<br />
Warrenton, Kimberley, Hopetown, Britstown<br />
and Victoria West. It is a perfect stopover<br />
for travellers between Johannesburg and<br />
Cape Town. Guests can stop at various towns<br />
for an exciting number of leisure activities<br />
and accommodation facilities. There are a<br />
variety of food stalls that travellers can enjoy<br />
and stock up on, such as home-made rusks,<br />
ginger beer to quench your thirst and a taste<br />
of local food. Experiences includes Anglo-Boer<br />
War Blockhouses, Historical Walks, Dronfield<br />
Nature Reserve, Ghost Trail Tour, McGregor<br />
Museum, Sol Plaatje Museum, Galeshewe<br />
Township tour, The Big Hole and a Tram Ride<br />
tour, William Humphrey Art Gallery, Wildebeest<br />
Kuil Rock Art Centre, Mokala National Park,<br />
Hopetown Concentration Camp, Game Safaris,<br />
and River Rafting.<br />
Contact: +27 (0)53 833 1434<br />
marketing@experiencenortherncape.com<br />
NAMAQUA COASTAL ROUTE<br />
The route includes hidden gems like Garies,<br />
Kamieskroon, Hondeklip Bay, Koiingnaas and<br />
Kleinzee. Dozens of adventure and leisure<br />
options are available, including the Namaqua<br />
National Park, nature reserves, hidden coastal<br />
hamlets and some of the most remote hiking<br />
and 4x4 trails imaginable. Go succulent<br />
sleuthing with a botanical guide, hike the<br />
Springbok Klipkoppie for a dose of Anglo-<br />
Boer War history, enjoy stargazing, explore<br />
the countless shipwrecks along the coast line<br />
or visit Namastat, a traditional matjies-hut<br />
village. Breath-taking scenes of the Atlantic<br />
Ocean with sightings of dolphins and whales<br />
combined with great vistas of mountains and<br />
veld with endemic wildlife makes travelling in<br />
this area remarkable.<br />
Contact: +27 (0)27 877 0028<br />
email: coast.of.diamonds@gmail.com<br />
RICHTERSVELD ROUTE<br />
The Richtersveld is South Africa’s only<br />
mountain desert and the route travels along<br />
rugged gravel roads to quaint towns such as<br />
Eksteensfontein, Sendelingsdrift, Lekkersing,<br />
Kuboes and Sandrift. The more challenging 4x4<br />
routes in the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier<br />
Park or in the Richtersveld World Heritage Area<br />
are best explored in a well-equipped SUV or<br />
bakkie. Pack comfortable hiking boots, extra<br />
water and guidebooks and set out along the<br />
600 km Namaqua Eco 4x4 Route. The Orange<br />
River presents a more leisurely pace with river<br />
rafting and the best wilderness fly-fishing in<br />
South Africa, while the entire Richtersveld<br />
is a mountain biker’s dream. Follow in the<br />
footsteps of a traditional goat herder and<br />
learn about the lives of the nomads. In the<br />
villages, the locals will entertain guests with<br />
storytelling and traditional Nama step dancing<br />
upon request.<br />
Contact +27 (0)78 874 1515<br />
bokka.diepotlepel@gmail.com<br />
QUIVER TREE ROUTE<br />
Named after the indigenous quiver tree, the<br />
Kokerboom Food and Wine Route stretches<br />
along the Gariep and includes towns like<br />
Upington, Kakamas, Keimoes, Augrabies,<br />
Marchand, Kanoneiland, Kenhardt and<br />
Riemvasmaak. The route will appeal to<br />
families as well as adventure and adrenaline<br />
seekers. Highlights include Augrabies Falls,<br />
Riemvasmaak hot springs, river rafting, fly<br />
fishing, kayaking and river cruises on the<br />
Orange River, numerous 4x4, hiking and MTB<br />
trails as well as excellent bird watching.<br />
Foodies will appreciate the typical Northern<br />
Cape fare and produce available from coffee<br />
shops, road stalls and restaurants as well<br />
as wine tasting at cellars along the route.<br />
Accommodation ranges from luxurious<br />
guesthouses to farm and community stayovers.<br />
Contact: +27 (0)84 244 4408<br />
bookings@kokerboomroute.co.za<br />
NorthernCapeTourism<br />
northerncapetourism<br />
@NorthernCapeSA<br />
northerncapetourism<br />
SA&BEYOND 31
@branzed87<br />
32<br />
SA&BEYOND
PORTUGAL<br />
Living Like A<br />
Local In Lisbon,<br />
Portugal<br />
– a city of cobbled roads<br />
and colourful tram rides<br />
SA&BEYOND 33
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
A<br />
place of allure with its unique charm,<br />
symmetrically laid Portuguese pavements,<br />
brightly painted buildings and viewpoints<br />
that reveal layer upon layer of terracotta<br />
rooftops intermixed with tall church<br />
steeples, you can lose your heart to this European<br />
city that effortlessly blends traditional heritage with<br />
modern design and progressive thinking.<br />
Portugal’s hilly, coastal capital city sits on the<br />
Tagus River with the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension<br />
bridge linking its banks. Its beauty takes on all shades<br />
of wonder, intrigue, architecture and history and it is<br />
famed for its many viewpoints, the most impressive<br />
being from São Jorge Castle.<br />
Sunseekers in a restaraunt, LX Factory Photo: Dawn<br />
Jorgensen (Below) Praça do Município Photo: finduslost.com<br />
(Above) Tiled houses around Barrio Alto in Lisbon and old<br />
school trams in the Almafa district Photo: finduslost.com<br />
(Opposite page) Walking the Bica Funicular Tram Street<br />
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
Long drawn to see the city, I recently bought an air<br />
ticket, booked an apartment and spent a month living<br />
like a local in the historic Alfama district, and once<br />
familiar, in more residential Santos. Arriving with no<br />
plans other than to immerse myself into local living,<br />
that is exactly what I did.<br />
Among the attractions discovered were the National<br />
Azulejo Museum displaying five centuries of decorative<br />
ceramic tiles. In trendy Belem, the Museum of Art,<br />
Architecture and Technology (MAAT) is where these<br />
three areas intertwine within a space of debate and<br />
dialogue. I took time to listen to Fado music and<br />
learn more about its origins, visited the Museu do<br />
Aljube that showcases Portugal under dictatorship<br />
and the country’s subsequent struggle for freedom and<br />
democracy, spent time in the impressive Maritime<br />
Museum and lingered in art galleries.<br />
From the imposing São Jorge Castle – which is<br />
worth walking up to – the view encompasses the old<br />
city’s pastel-coloured buildings and Tagus Estuary. Be<br />
sure to take a trip across the river to see the Cristo Rei<br />
statue – you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Rio<br />
– as well as a closer look at residential Almada.<br />
Just outside Lisbon you’ll find a string of Atlantic<br />
beaches, from Cascais to Estoril and further inland the<br />
charming royal sanctuary resort town on the foothills of<br />
Portugal’s Sintra Mountains, Sintra.<br />
I spent much time at the LX Factory, a regenerated<br />
creative island that is home to fashion, food, fine arts,<br />
34<br />
SA&BEYOND
25 de Abril Suspension Bridge<br />
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
One of the best rooftop views in Lisbon at Portas do Sol<br />
(Right) A delicious and colorful brunch at Dear Breakfast<br />
Photos: finduslost.com<br />
music, and one of the best bookshops I’ve ever seen.<br />
I walked for hours to familiarise myself with the lay<br />
of the land seeking out the best examples of alcada<br />
portuguesa pavements and photographing street art.<br />
I lingered in restaurants and cafes, shopped at local<br />
markets and ate more pasteis de nata than I care to<br />
admit to.<br />
Views across the city from the top of Elevador de<br />
Santa Justa in the heart of the city are unbeatable.<br />
On the popular Praça do Comércio you’ll find the<br />
iconic Rua Augusta Arch, a historical building and<br />
visitor attraction built to commemorate the city’s<br />
reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. Built to<br />
resemble the shape of a caravel, the massive, the<br />
angular Monument to the Discoveries is a prominent<br />
feature of the Belem waterfront well worth seeing.<br />
I’m already planning my return trip for more, and<br />
could quite easily join the half a million lucky ones<br />
who get to call Lisboa home. This is a city to live in, no<br />
matter the length of your stay, make it your home for<br />
those days and pretend you’re a local soaking up the<br />
old-fashioned laidback of this inviting European city.<br />
The Essential Details for<br />
booking your visit to Lisbon<br />
Getting there: There may not be direct flights<br />
to Lisbon from South Africa, but that shouldn’t<br />
deter as many European airlines service the<br />
Lisbon Airport, and you can get there from<br />
Cape Town or Johannesburg with just one<br />
connection. Alternately, the very affordable<br />
TAAG Angola Airlines offers easy access via<br />
Luanda.<br />
Visas: South African passport holders require a<br />
Schengen Visa to visit Portugal.<br />
Accommodation: A wide variety of<br />
accommodation options exist, be it for a luxury<br />
hotel, or Airbnb apartment. The best areas to<br />
base yourself are historic Alfama, Rossio in the<br />
heart of the city, Baixa for shopping and the<br />
charming Bairro Alto.<br />
Don’t miss: Arguably the best pastéis de nata<br />
in the city can be found at the small bustling<br />
Manteigaria, Time Out Market Lisboa.<br />
SA&BEYOND 35
48 Hours in Porto:<br />
An Emirates Guide<br />
PORTO is a vibrant coastal city in northwest<br />
Portugal situated along the Douro River.<br />
World famous for its Port wine production and<br />
historical city centre, the must-see destination<br />
is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site that<br />
offers a rich cultural legacy and a variety of tourist<br />
attractions. The genuine hospitality of the local people<br />
is another reason to visit, especially for South Africans<br />
who have had a taste of a well-integrated and highly<br />
active Portuguese community back home.<br />
Travelling to different parts of Portugal for leisure,<br />
business, and visiting family and relatives, Portuguese<br />
South Africans are no stranger to the country, with<br />
Johannesburg identified as a feeder market for Porto.<br />
From 2 July <strong>2019</strong>, Emirates will launch a four times<br />
weekly service between Portugal’s second largest city,<br />
Porto, and Dubai – offering this community added<br />
services and better connectivity.<br />
So, for first-time visitors looking to experience the<br />
best Porto has to offer, we’ve got a two-day itinerary<br />
showcasing its top activities courtesy of Emirates:<br />
DAY ONE:<br />
Drink and be merry<br />
A visit to one of Porto’s Port Wine Cellars is a must.<br />
You’re spoilt for choice with just how many there are<br />
available, but one thing’s for sure – your taste buds<br />
are in for a treat either way. Espaço Porto Cruz is a<br />
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SA&BEYOND
generations of the city’s residents are buried in its<br />
catacombs. If ancient architecture is your thing, you’ll<br />
also enjoy the ‘Medieval Walls’, which were built during<br />
the reign of King Fernando and exhibit breath-taking<br />
views of Ribeira and the surrounding areas. The famous<br />
Livraria Lello bookshop is another must-see for its<br />
stunning architecture, which is said to have inspired<br />
author J.K. Rowling’s depictions of Harry Potter’s<br />
Hogwarts.<br />
Porto Boardwalk. (Below) Dom Luís I Bridge<br />
(Previous page) Sunset in Porto Photos: Unsplash<br />
fan favourite because, besides sampling world-famous<br />
Ports, there’s also chocolate and cheese tastings on<br />
offer and a gorgeous terrace to enjoy the view of the city<br />
while you’re at it.<br />
Neighbourhood strolls<br />
Spend the evening walking through the riverside<br />
neighbourhoods of Ribeira and Miragaia. The narrow,<br />
cobbled streets are lined with bars, night clubs and<br />
eateries serving some of Portugal’s most authentic<br />
dishes. For the shopping enthusiasts – 43 Branco is<br />
a haven for Portuguese crafts, fashion and interior<br />
design, a new concept store that’s quickly gaining<br />
popularity among both local and international tourists.<br />
Traditional tunes<br />
Visit Calem Port House for its 6 pm English tour,<br />
which culminates in a 30-minute Fado show. Fado is a<br />
traditional Portuguese style of music. For more music<br />
and a night to remember, make your way to the Hard<br />
Club located in a renovated former marketplace. The<br />
DJs here play everything from hip-hop and rap to metal<br />
and alternative music.<br />
Flavours of Porto<br />
Porto boasts some of the world’s best eateries with<br />
dishes that revolve mainly around fresh sea produce<br />
and delectable local meats. With restaurants aplenty,<br />
and only two days to try it all – food tours are the way<br />
to go. With plenty to choose from, each promise to<br />
expose you to the real flavours of Porto as you eat your<br />
way through the city, privately guided by a friendly<br />
local and expert in the best authentic dishes to try.<br />
Porto will become Emirates’ second destination in<br />
Portugal after its capital, Lisbon. The flight between<br />
Dubai and Porto, operated by a Boeing 777-300ER<br />
aircraft, will be available four times a week with a<br />
schedule that enables South African travellers to easily<br />
and conveniently connect Emirates’ flights from Dubai<br />
International Airport to other popular destinations.<br />
The Dubai to Porto route will operate on Tuesdays,<br />
Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Emirates flight EK<br />
197 will depart Dubai at 9:15 am and arrive in Porto<br />
at 14:30 pm local time. The return flight, EK 198, will<br />
depart Porto 17:35 pm and arrive in Dubai at 4:15 am<br />
the next morning.<br />
In South Africa, two of the four daily Emirates<br />
flights to Johannesburg are served by the iconic Airbus<br />
A380 to cater to the growing demand for the airline’s<br />
successful, customer-orientated experience. Emirates<br />
also operates two daily flights to Cape Town and a<br />
daily flight to Durban using Boeing 777s. To book, or<br />
for more information and terms and conditions, please<br />
visit https://www.emirates.com/za/english/ or visit the<br />
local Emirates office or your travel agent.<br />
Fly Better with Emirates.<br />
DAY TWO:<br />
Creative spirit<br />
Dubbed the Arts Block – Rua Miguel Bombarda is<br />
known for its dynamic artwork mostly done by the<br />
owners of the art galleries dotted throughout the<br />
area. Every two months, Bombarda comes alive with<br />
contemporary art displays that beautifully represent a<br />
culture-packed city. Entry into the art galleries is free.<br />
Adventure time<br />
Take a tour of the last Gothic monument built in<br />
Porto, the opulent Church of São Francisco, where<br />
SA&BEYOND 37
Rishikesh, India<br />
The Beatles, meditation and a<br />
spiritual retreat on the<br />
banks of the holy<br />
Ganges River<br />
38<br />
The Ganges river or goddess Ganga that the river is named after is considered to be<br />
the purest and most sacred river in India Photo: Pinterest<br />
SA&BEYOND
The Beatles Ashram Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
IT was the month I was born, February ‘68, that<br />
The Beatles travelled to Rishikesh in northern<br />
India to take part in an advanced Transcendental<br />
Meditation training course at the ashram of the<br />
Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, a Hindu Guru who’s<br />
seductive anti-establishment stance drew the group<br />
to visit at a time when they were questioning their<br />
existence.<br />
They were joined by singers Donovan and the<br />
Beach Boys’ Mike Love, as well as actress Mia Farrow<br />
while their – with the visit receiving widespread media<br />
attention. The stayed between three and ten weeks,<br />
meditating, playing music, and reportedly writing<br />
as many as 30 songs, including most of those on the<br />
“White Album”. Their relationship with the Maharishi<br />
was not to last, but the lessons and influence from their<br />
time in India, would remain with them.<br />
The Beatles Ashram – or Chaurasi Kutia, was<br />
abandoned in the 1990’s and engulfed by the Rajaji<br />
National Park, a place where wild elephants and tigers<br />
roam in the tree thick wilderness.<br />
After lying derelict for years, with many of the<br />
buildings overtaken by nature, the ashram was<br />
converted into an eco-friendly tourism destination,<br />
reopening to the public in early <strong>December</strong> 2015.<br />
While in Rishikesh on a ten day detox and<br />
transformational retreat, I ventured out there to walk<br />
the grounds, climb the meditation chambers and<br />
linger in the rooms where these musical greats had<br />
once been, visualising them there. The place is in a<br />
state of disrepair with the walls covered in murals and<br />
graffiti, yet the magic prevails and the rooftop domes<br />
make ideal photo ops with the Himalayan foothills as a<br />
backdrop.<br />
There is an undeniable spiritual air about the place.<br />
As though all the visitors over the years have left a part<br />
of themselves there. A place of expression, these words<br />
scribbled on the walls, resonated: ‘You are the love you<br />
seek’.<br />
Rishikesh, birthplace of yoga and soul seekers<br />
Rishikesh in India’s northern state of Uttarakhand<br />
is a 40 minute drive from the Dehradun Airport.<br />
Reached by winding road through thick forest, you’ll<br />
pass brightly decorated trucks and tuk-tuks, passenger<br />
laden motorbikes and the occasional roadside monkey<br />
en route.<br />
A place of ancient spiritual practices and thousands<br />
of years of meditation and Ayurveda, the city is built<br />
up on the banks of the Holy Mother Ganga river, on<br />
the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains. Known as<br />
the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ it is said to be one of the<br />
holiest of Hindu places and sages, saints and pilgrims<br />
have visited here since ancient times in search of higher<br />
knowledge.<br />
The most recognisable image of Rishikesh is the<br />
view across the Lakshman Jhula hanging bridge to<br />
the huge 13-storey temple of Swarg Niwas and Shri<br />
Trayanbakshwar, which resembles a fairytale castle and<br />
has dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level,<br />
SA&BEYOND 39
Lakshman Jhula Bridge Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
interspersed with jewellery and textile shops.<br />
Walking along the east bank of the Ganges you’ll<br />
find ashrams, an incredible bazaar, and the bathing<br />
ghats – or steps leading down to the Ganges River<br />
where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise<br />
and sunset each day.<br />
Walking the streets richly rewarded, from Baba’s<br />
reading the newspaper to women in their bright saris<br />
chatting on the streets, endless gorgeous items for<br />
sale and food prepared by hand at the various stalls,<br />
everywhere I looked there was something to pause<br />
and appreciate. Throughout sacred cows and attention<br />
seeking dogs roamed free, all tended and fed by the<br />
local community.<br />
Today most of the ashrams and retreats are found<br />
north of the main town, on the banks of the fastflowing<br />
Ganges, surrounded by forested hills. In the<br />
evening, an almost supernatural breeze blows down<br />
the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus – holy<br />
men, pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly<br />
ganga aarti – the river worship ceremony.<br />
I have no doubt that the Rishikesh of today differs<br />
vastly from the one The Beatles encountered 50 years<br />
ago, but the soulful connection, introspection, selflove,<br />
seeing and being that the city brings, remains.<br />
Like them, after a visit there on my personal spiritual<br />
journey, I will never be the same.<br />
15 Days Yoga Detox Retreat Photo: retreat.guru<br />
40<br />
SA&BEYOND
Banks of the Ganges River Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
Booking your Trip to Rishikesh<br />
Getting there: Emirates and Ethiopian<br />
Airlines offer convenient connections from<br />
Cape Town and Johannesburg to Delhi.<br />
From there book a flight to Dehradun on<br />
Air India or IndiGo Airlines. A driver can<br />
meet you on arrival and transfer you the 40<br />
minutes to Rishikesh.<br />
Visas: South African passport holders require<br />
visas for India and an e-Tourist Visa can be<br />
conveniently applied for online - https://<br />
indianvisaonline.gov.in/<br />
Booking Details: Namaste Retreats India<br />
offer numerous transformational retreats<br />
in India each year. Their packages include<br />
accommodation, meals, workshops, meditation,<br />
yoga and activities. www.namasteretreatsindia.com<br />
Where to stay: Dewa Retreat Hotel https://<br />
www.dewaretreat.com/ Don’t miss a delicious<br />
coconut masala chai latte at their Pure Soul organic<br />
restaurant.<br />
Getting Around: From Rishikesh, take a Tuk-Tuk to<br />
the Beatles Ashram or rent a bike and self-navigate<br />
the surrounding area. I booked one with Sharma<br />
Adventure Bikers. Beyond that, walking the streets,<br />
the bridges and the banks of the holy Ganges River,<br />
is the best option.<br />
NOTE: Rishikesh is an alcohol free and entirely<br />
vegetarian city.<br />
SA&BEYOND 41
Why choose TGCSA<br />
star-graded resorts?<br />
SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM<br />
WHEN going on holiday, booking<br />
accommodation can be a daunting<br />
experience. Images of rooms and<br />
facilities may shimmer online, but in<br />
reality, you could be staying in the sticks. But looking<br />
for accommodation has never been easier thanks to the<br />
Tourism Grading Council of South Africa’s (TGCSA)<br />
star-grading system – the hospitality industry’s mark of<br />
quality.<br />
New grading criteria keeps up with trends<br />
The grading criteria was recently augmented to keep up<br />
with the latest global tourism and technological trends.<br />
Three new categories have been added: apartment<br />
hotels, small hotels and boutique hotels.<br />
The grading criteria was recently augmented<br />
to keep up with the latest global tourism and<br />
technological trends. Three new categories have been<br />
added: apartment hotels, small hotels and boutique<br />
hotels.<br />
According to TGCSA’s Chief Quality Assurance<br />
Officer, the new criteria is to ensure South Africa<br />
remains internationally benchmarked and thus<br />
competitive as a destination. “One of the key reasons<br />
behind the triennial review of our criteria, is the impact<br />
that technological enhancements are having on the<br />
hospitality sector and the overall guest experience.<br />
For instance, the provision and access to Wi-Fi is fast<br />
becoming a very basic need and guest prerequisite at<br />
any category of accommodation.”<br />
Guests will be guaranteed that higher graded<br />
establishments have technological capabilities to suit<br />
both business and leisure travellers. Tech developments<br />
in the hospitality industry allow guests to connect<br />
with the hotel service outlets using new platforms and<br />
applications as well as the ability to make outgoing calls<br />
using applications linked to Wi-Fi.<br />
Rewarding responsible establishments<br />
With over 5,200 properties graded across the country,<br />
there are a variety of options with availability seldom<br />
an issue. In addition, TGCSA has introduced the<br />
Responsible Tourism accolade for establishments that<br />
abide by sustainable responsible tourism practices.<br />
“We are of the opinion that limiting the impact<br />
of tourism on the environment is in the interest of<br />
all concerned and it was on this premise that the<br />
TCGSA undertook to include an accolade to recognise<br />
properties that have adopted and are practicing<br />
Responsible Tourism practices,” said Erasmus.<br />
Travel agents trust the grading system<br />
When booking for clients, travel agents look for tried<br />
and trusted establishments that have TGCSA star<br />
grading.<br />
Erasmus said the grading level awarded to<br />
properties annually are by far the most important for<br />
travel agents when recommending an establishment to<br />
a customer.<br />
This indicates the type of product that will be<br />
encountered as well as the levels of product quality,<br />
variety of facilities and service standards to be expected<br />
by your guests.<br />
“We are invigorated to see that our contribution,<br />
through the provision of our world-class grading<br />
system, continues to assist trade in improving the<br />
collective positioning of South Africa as a quality<br />
destination and a leading player on the global stage,”<br />
said Erasmus.<br />
42<br />
SA&BEYOND
VIETNAM<br />
Vietnam’s<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY<br />
- a heaving metropolis<br />
Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple<br />
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
SA&BEYOND 43
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
THE first thing to strike you about Ho Chi<br />
Minh City will be how the streets teem with<br />
family laden scooters, and how bicycles,<br />
cars and carts weave seamlessly between<br />
pedestrians as they go about their business<br />
with colourful determination. Yet beyond this frenetic<br />
welcome is a city brimming with a wealth of history,<br />
art and culture, one that is home to a distinct blend of<br />
Southeast Asian, Chinese and French influences.<br />
More commonly known as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh<br />
is located in southeast Vietnam and has a population<br />
of just under 9 million. The capital of South Vietnam<br />
from 1955 to 1975, Saigon played a pivotal role in the<br />
Vietnam War when it served as the headquarters of<br />
U.S. military operations. Today a place where timeless<br />
incense-infused temples sit alongside chic designer<br />
malls and sleek 21st-century skyscrapers, it offers a<br />
dizzying adrenaline-fuelled assault on the senses that<br />
instantly commands attention.<br />
The heart of the city is adorned with elegant<br />
tree-lined roads and historic French colonial<br />
buildings. The main sites in the city centre include the<br />
Reunification Palace, City Hall, the Opera House and<br />
City People’s Court. Independence Palace, also known<br />
as Reunification Palace, built on the site of the former<br />
Norodom Palace, is an impressive landmark in Saigon.<br />
Downtown you’ll find the Notre-Dame Cathedral<br />
Basilica of Saigon, the most impressive cathedral in<br />
Vietnam and modelled on Notre-Dame Paris. Built<br />
between<br />
1863 and 1880 by<br />
French colonists<br />
using<br />
materials<br />
shipped<br />
over<br />
from<br />
(Above) Aerial view of Ho Chi Minh City Photo: nomadicmatt.com<br />
(Below) Temple dragon detail Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
France, the cathedral is the religious centre for<br />
Vietnam’s 6.2 million Catholics.<br />
Adjacent is the Ho Chi Minh City Post Office, one of<br />
the city’s most photographed tourist<br />
destinations. Inside, if you’re<br />
lucky, you’ll find 88-yearold<br />
Duong Van Ngo,<br />
the only remaining<br />
public writer who<br />
for almost 30<br />
years has<br />
44<br />
SA&BEYOND
The Essential Details for booking<br />
your visit to Ho Chi Minh City<br />
Getting there: There are no direct flights to Ho<br />
Chi Minh City from South Africa, but convenient<br />
connections with Emirates, Qatar and Singapore<br />
Airlines make travelling there easy. On the<br />
ground, Vietnam remains a very affordable option<br />
for South Africans.<br />
Visas: South African passport holders can apply<br />
online to receive a 30 or 90 day single or multiple<br />
entry visa on arrival. This must be done in<br />
advance.<br />
Accommodation: You will find a variety of<br />
accommodation that ranges from top end hotels<br />
to hostels and self-catering apartments. The most<br />
popular districts with tourists are District 1, 2, 3<br />
and 7.<br />
Getting around: Tickets can be purchased for the<br />
local bus and there’s an app that shows you their<br />
routes and running times. That said, Grab (South<br />
East Asia’s Uber) is likely the best way.<br />
Don’t miss: A Vietnamese Egg Coffee from Little<br />
HaNoi Egg Coffee Goc Ha Noi in District 1.<br />
penned letters for those who cannot write themselves.<br />
You may even ask him to help you pen yours.<br />
A special find is the Ho Chi Minh City Book Street<br />
located in District 1, a pedestrianised alley lined with<br />
libraries, photo displays and book stores. Seek out<br />
the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas in District 5,<br />
a secluded, off-the-beaten-path attraction renowned<br />
for its enormous display of ornate statues of Buddhist<br />
deities. For a treat, head to the Saigon Skydeck at the<br />
Bitexco Financial Tower, the tallest building in Ho Chi<br />
Minh City that offers spectacular 360-degree views<br />
from the bar on the 49th-floor.<br />
But eating is what you’ll want to do in Saigon<br />
and the city boasts some of the best street food in the<br />
world. Try typical Vietnamese dishes such as Pho soup<br />
and French-influenced Banh Mi. For a glimpse of the<br />
city’s nightlife visit Bui Vien Backpacker Street, which<br />
is lined with bars, food stalls and nightclubs. The<br />
Ben Thanh Market is the place to go if shopping for<br />
clothes, spices and locally handcrafted souvenirs is your<br />
interest.<br />
Whichever it is, drink in this pulsating city from<br />
every available angle, it certainly warrants an in-depth<br />
look and appreciation and will very quickly have you<br />
swept up in its infectious energy.<br />
Photo: Wikimedia Commons<br />
Not to be overlooked is the War Remnants<br />
Museum which comprises a series of themed<br />
rooms and exhibits with graphic photographs<br />
and accounts documenting the atrocities of<br />
the Vietnam War. In the grounds American<br />
tanks, bombs and aircraft are displayed, as<br />
well as a mock-up of a POW prison. This is the<br />
most visited site in the city for good reason<br />
and offers sobering insight into a difficult<br />
and prolonged war, as well as a better<br />
understanding of the history of the city.<br />
SA&BEYOND 45
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Samara<br />
Private Game<br />
Reserve<br />
Rewilding the Plains<br />
of Camdeboo<br />
46<br />
SA&BEYOND<br />
Seated cheetah<br />
Photo: Dawn Jorgensen
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
AS I turned onto the dirt track that leads to<br />
the Karoo Lodge I caught sight of a tower<br />
of giraffe feeding in the last of the evening<br />
light, their curious expressions visible<br />
above the tall acacia trees. In the distance<br />
vervet monkey played in puddles left by the recent rain.<br />
The setting was complete and I could barely believe<br />
that l was back at beautiful Samara Private Game<br />
Reserve.<br />
Flying into Port Elizabeth and making the drive<br />
to Samara near Graff-Reinet, I was warmly welcomed<br />
and shown to my room in the Karoo Lodge, a perfectly<br />
appointed old farmstead with wrap-around verandah,<br />
that is surrounded by thousands of hectares of land rich<br />
in protected wildlife.<br />
During my three night stay I was taken on game<br />
drives by my guide Benedict, who with the assistance<br />
of his tracker Rowan pointed out waterbuck, red<br />
hartebeest, zebra and baboon, amongst others. We<br />
tracked cheetah on foot, were fortunate enough to see<br />
rhino and elephant, and on the one evening drove to<br />
the very highest plateau to take in the views towards<br />
the Plains of Camdeboo.<br />
There were lessons in conservation, insight into the<br />
long term vision of Samara and toasts to the pink skies<br />
with chilled G&T’s. Nights were enjoyed snug next to<br />
the roaring fire in the Karoo Lodge lounge, evening<br />
Have we forgotten<br />
that wilderness is not a<br />
place, but a pattern of<br />
soul where every tree,<br />
every bird and beast is a<br />
soul maker?<br />
- Ian McCallum<br />
Scenic sunset<br />
meals taken in the dining room and brunch savoured<br />
in the warm Winter sun. Throughout the service was<br />
impeccable, authentically warm and in true Karoo style.<br />
Cosy interior<br />
The Story of Samara Private Game Reserve<br />
The story of Samara is one of determination,<br />
perseverance and commitment. It follows owners Mark<br />
and Sarah Tompkins’ dream to painstakingly return 11<br />
former livestock farms to wilderness over a period of 20<br />
years.<br />
Located on 27,000 hectares of wilderness in the<br />
Great Karoo, Samara Private Game Reserve is the<br />
leader in its area and a catalyst for change in the<br />
area. The abundant land here preserves a complex<br />
and diverse ecosystem with four vegetation biomes<br />
providing habitat for over 60 mammal species,<br />
including: lion, elephant, cheetah, black and white<br />
rhino, buffalo, Cape mountain zebra, giraffe, eland,<br />
gemsbok and aardvark to name but a few.<br />
One of many things that Samara Private Game<br />
Reserve is renowned for is their successful wild cheetah<br />
conservation project that started with a female cheetah<br />
Sibella, who had been rescued from a pack of farm<br />
dogs and patiently nursed back to health before being<br />
released back into the wild here.<br />
She went on to be the mother of generations of<br />
cheetah to come who have gone on to live across<br />
Southern Africa.<br />
On the one day I trekked on foot into her daughter<br />
SA&BEYOND 47
Samara Private Game Reserve (Below) View across the<br />
reserve from the game vehicle Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
Chilli and her five 7-month-old very fluffy cubs, who<br />
affectionately played and pounced around her, before<br />
settling down in the morning sun.<br />
The Arrival of the Lions<br />
Earlier this year Samara Private Game Reserve<br />
successfully released a founder pride of lions – restoring<br />
a species that last roamed the Plains of Camdeboo over<br />
180 years ago. Their release forms part of a pioneering<br />
project to return the Karoo to the state of true<br />
biodiversity it once enjoyed, marking a major milestone<br />
not only for Samara, but also for South African wildlife<br />
conservation.<br />
The reintroduction is critical for several reasons.<br />
Firstly, there is an urgent need for conservation<br />
initiatives targeting lions, the species has dwindled by<br />
43% in the past 20 years. A sobering fact is that there<br />
are only an estimated 3 000 wild lions left in South<br />
Africa<br />
The new lion population means that the ecosystem<br />
has an apex predator, and positions Samara one step<br />
closer to achieving its ultimate goal of establishing<br />
a series of ecological corridors and public-private<br />
partnerships that will see the region become South<br />
Africa’s third largest protected area.<br />
An area that was once home to<br />
the largest migration on earth:<br />
the springbok migration.<br />
The Essential Details<br />
Contact Details: For more information,<br />
visit www.samara.co.za and email<br />
reservations@samara.co.za. Be sure to<br />
enquire about SA resident special offers.<br />
Location: Situated approximately<br />
270km from Port Elizabeth and 53km<br />
from the nearest town of Graaff Reinet,<br />
Samara offers easy access to visitors. I’d<br />
recommend flying into Port Elizabeth and<br />
driving the 2,5 scenic hours from there.<br />
Road and air transfers can be arranged on<br />
request.<br />
Accommodation: Accommodating<br />
a maximum of 26 guests in two, fivestar<br />
luxury lodges: the Karoo Lodge<br />
– a renovated farmstead overlooking<br />
an amphitheatre of mountains and The<br />
Manor – a luxury villa with private pool,<br />
chef, butler and ranger that can be booked<br />
exclusively or by private individuals.<br />
Activities: Samara activities include<br />
game drives, guided walks, a luxury<br />
star bed experience, wilderness picnics,<br />
birding, mountain hikes, indoor and<br />
outdoor dining and conservation activities.<br />
Children of all ages are welcome and<br />
there’s a dedicated children’s programme.<br />
In addition: This is a malaria free area. A<br />
minimum of three nights is recommended.<br />
Manage your expectations when booking your stay at<br />
Samara Private Game Reserve. If all you’re interested in<br />
is ticking animals off a must-see safari list, this may not<br />
be the place for you. Samara is more for those seeking<br />
a soulful retreat to the bush, where all life matters<br />
and the effort that goes into preserving the area and<br />
wilderness, is appreciated.<br />
Samara is about the big skies, the views across the<br />
Camdeboo plains, the impressive landscape and diverse<br />
vegetation. Warm Karoo hospitality, fine food and<br />
luxury and the excellent guides that bring the reserve to<br />
life. A visit there supports Samara’s conservation vision<br />
and I already look forward to my return.<br />
48<br />
SA&BEYOND
https://umustsee.net/RUU5SQ<br />
Contact:<br />
Charles Reddy on 0835541424<br />
mail: charles.reddy@redmps.com<br />
Nesan Govender on 0815403104<br />
mail: nesan.govender@redmps.com<br />
Vijay Govender on 0614403714<br />
mail: vijay.govender@redmps.com<br />
SA&BEYOND 49
How to<br />
be a more<br />
Responsible<br />
Tourist<br />
Photo: adventuretravelnews.com<br />
50<br />
SA&BEYOND
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
WITH climate change affecting all of us,<br />
tourists are becoming more aware of<br />
the potentially negative impact they’re<br />
having on the environment and are<br />
seeking out more responsible options when they travel.<br />
This means not only examining their own carbon<br />
footprints, but also the economic and social influence<br />
they may have on the destinations they visit.<br />
Aligned to this, everything from human rights and<br />
equality, to improved working conditions come into<br />
play for the tourist who doesn’t want to be perceived<br />
to be supporting ‘controversial countries’ on their<br />
travels. Safety, regardless of gender, ethnicity or<br />
sexual orientation are of increased importance, while<br />
destinations that support women travelling alone,<br />
remain popular.<br />
In summary, if you are turning a blind eye to<br />
exploited communities, leave the air-conditioner on<br />
when you leave the room, aren’t carrying a reusable<br />
water bottle and think that interacting with wild<br />
animals is acceptable, you’re not a responsible tourist.<br />
Here are some ways to help you travel more<br />
responsibly:<br />
1. Fly Smarter and Lighter<br />
Airlines produce fossil fuels, which are harmful to the<br />
environment. Be smart and select a greener airline<br />
with a newer fleet of planes modernised to produce less<br />
emissions. Book direct flights where possible to reduce<br />
flying time. Once cruising at altitude, lower the window<br />
shades, it keeps the aircraft a few degrees cooler, which<br />
saves energy. Bring your own in-flight gear such as a<br />
headset and blanket. Pack light, the more weight on a<br />
plane, the more fuel it requires.<br />
2. Choose Greener Accommodation<br />
Be selective in your choice of accommodation. Look<br />
to family run businesses with a strong eco feel, or<br />
sustainable tourism endorsement, which ensures<br />
that environmental, economic and social values are<br />
being upheld. Get to the core of responsible tourism<br />
by eating locally sourced food, in turn supporting<br />
resident farmers and creating job opportunities for the<br />
community, while getting a real taste of the homegrown<br />
cuisine. Green travel trends in the hotel sector include<br />
simple things such as reusing towels, keeping your<br />
linen for 2-3 days, low flow shower heads and the use of<br />
solar power.<br />
3. Choose an Eco-Friendly Tour<br />
Seek experiences that have meaning and create<br />
memories, from cultural and heritage experiences<br />
that speak of the traditions and history of a place to<br />
adventure activities or travel with a purpose, where<br />
tourists can contribute to a greater cause or even get<br />
involved in local conservation efforts. Research what<br />
is available in your chosen destination and remember<br />
the old adage – take only photographs, leave only<br />
footprints.<br />
4. Under Tourism, not Over Tourism<br />
The increased awareness around over tourism in cities<br />
such as Venice and Dubrovnik, Paris and Barcelona,<br />
has tourists thinking about the impact their visits<br />
have on tourism hotspots. Consider travelling to lesser<br />
known, eco-friendly destinations, from East Europe<br />
to India, Portugal and Slovenia. Should the popular<br />
hotspots be irresistible, consider visiting during offpeak<br />
periods in a bid to avoid the worst of the crowds.<br />
5. You Don’t Need that Animal Interaction<br />
Gone are the days when elephant back riding or<br />
petting lion cubs was acceptable. Attractions to avoid<br />
in the name of responsible tourism include visiting<br />
circuses with large animals, bullfighting, walking with<br />
lions or other big cats, petting cubs, ostrich riding,<br />
swimming with dolphins, orca shows, dancing bears<br />
and performing monkeys. Humans need to adjust their<br />
attitude and accept that animals belong in the wild and<br />
should not be exploited. Educate yourself about the<br />
torture most of the animals in tourism undergo.<br />
6. Go Plastic Free<br />
Tireless efforts by environmentalists have greatly<br />
increased awareness of plastic’s negative impact on the<br />
ocean, and the planet and many tourism bodies have<br />
pledged to take action, aiming to end the use of plastic<br />
straws, plastic water bottles and single use plastic.<br />
Carry a shopping bag and your own reusable water<br />
bottle, don’t use disposable toiletries, carry a cloth<br />
napkin or two. Don’t buy unnecessary cheap plastic<br />
souvenirs, opt for the real thing made locally and<br />
ideally with a story that inspires telling.<br />
7. Be kind and respectful<br />
Be respectful and aware of your surrounds, be they<br />
urban or wilderness. Be gracious to all who host and<br />
serve you. Tip well. Be present. Think about what you<br />
post on social media. Remember that you are a guest,<br />
and that travel is a privilege.<br />
Photo: Table Mountain Cableway<br />
SA&BEYOND 51
Discover a<br />
new side<br />
to your<br />
favourite<br />
local<br />
destination<br />
TRAVEL trends across the world are seeing<br />
travellers shying away from the overcrowded<br />
sights, rather looking for unique experiences<br />
in their destinations. But avoiding the crush<br />
of tourists doesn’t mean you should skip<br />
visiting some of South Africa’s most well-loved cities.<br />
“Many of our guests are looking to engage with their<br />
destination in a new way, with the focus on experiences<br />
rather than sites,” explains Danny Bryer, Area Director,<br />
Sales and Marketing, Protea Hotels by Marriott,<br />
Marriott International, Middle East and Africa.<br />
“Our visitors are looking for activities that help<br />
them to connect with their destination in an authentic<br />
way and experience the destination as locals do. We’ve<br />
noticed a trend of moving away from merely spending<br />
a few hours sightseeing as a passenger, and towards<br />
seeking out unusual experiences and sites that tell a<br />
different South African story.”<br />
Next time you’re holidaying in one of our major<br />
cities, why not try a new experience instead of following<br />
the well-worn path of hordes of other sightseers.<br />
Johannesburg<br />
One of the City of Gold’s attractions is the sense of<br />
nostalgia that coats the city, hinting at an old-world<br />
charm and the glamour which followed the gold rush.<br />
Revisit the time of great riches and devastating<br />
losses through a trip to the one of the oldest gold mines<br />
in the province, the Kromdraai Gold Mine.<br />
Embrace the vintage era with a glimpse into<br />
the past at the James Hall Museum of Transport in<br />
Johannesburg – not only will you be left feeling just a<br />
little bit “Gatsby”, you’ll also have a view of the most<br />
comprehensive museum of transport in South Africa.<br />
To another mode of transport, indulge in a sense of<br />
nostalgia by tying on your roller-skates and taking a<br />
few laps at a 1970s-styled disco roller-skating rink at<br />
RollEgoli in Bryanston.<br />
Pretoria<br />
Older than its sister city of Johannesburg, the capital<br />
has retained the feeling of an edgy, urban setting.<br />
Tap into this culture through experiencing urban<br />
outdoor art installations, such as the Urban Being<br />
Sculpture by Marco Cianfanelli and The Spirit of<br />
Tshwane by Anton Smit.<br />
While away the afternoon with up-and-coming<br />
talent at one of the many outdoor music events in<br />
Pretoria, such as Park Acoustics, which is held at the<br />
Voortrekker Monument.<br />
Cool off from the Highveld heat at a hip and<br />
happening pool party, such the rooftop infinity pool<br />
parties at the Protea Hotel by Marriott Fire & Ice!<br />
Pretoria Menlyn.<br />
Cape Town<br />
The Mother City forms the intersection of where<br />
much of South African culture, history and art meet<br />
– bringing the sea and the mountain together in<br />
spectacular scenery.<br />
52<br />
SA&BEYOND
Take on some of Cape Town’s oldest scenic roads,<br />
with the wind in your hair and the roar of a Harley<br />
Davidson engine, or the V8 burble of a classic Cobra<br />
sportscar, as your soundtrack; either through a selfdriven<br />
tour or with a tour guide.<br />
Explore the history of one of Cape Town’s most<br />
established suburbs through the lens of young artists.<br />
Guided walking tours through Woodstock will allow<br />
you to view over 40 street art works by both local and<br />
international graffiti artists.<br />
Immerse yourself in local culture through a visit<br />
to the Guga S’Thebe Arts & Cultural Centre, where<br />
you can shop for handmade pottery or view a musical<br />
performance by local musicians.<br />
Durban<br />
With an abundance of sea, sun and sand, Durban is the<br />
perfect destination to get away from the rat race and<br />
reconnect with nature.<br />
Take a walk on the wild side with a hike in the<br />
Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve. This hidden<br />
wilderness is home to a wetland, and coastal and dune<br />
forest, along with a number of indigenous birds and<br />
animals, such as bushbuck and duiker.<br />
Beyond the breakers lies an underwater world for<br />
you to explore. Snorkelling allows you to view marine<br />
creatures in calmer waters, without the necessity<br />
of diving gear and training. You may even have an<br />
encounter with larger mammals, such as dolphins.<br />
For a relaxing change of pace, take in the<br />
countryside through the classic mode of transport from<br />
yesteryear. A steam train will take you on a leisurely<br />
puff through the Valley of a Thousand Hills, giving<br />
you an immersive experience of the beautifully verdant<br />
province.<br />
SA&BEYOND 53
ITALY<br />
Venice needs to be seen. No book, film<br />
or photograph can prepare one for<br />
the beauty of this eternal city.<br />
Gondola on the Grand Canal Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
Venice, the<br />
Eternal City<br />
DAWN JORGENSEN<br />
54<br />
SA&BEYOND
Punta della Dogana Photo: Dawn Jorgensen<br />
SURREAL in every way, the capital of<br />
northern Italy’s Veneto region is built on<br />
more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in<br />
the Adriatic Sea. There are no roads, just a<br />
network of canals lined with Renaissance<br />
buildings and Gothic palaces. In the central square is<br />
Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Basilica, one of the<br />
finest examples of Byzantine architecture in the world,<br />
and the Campanile bell tower that offers unsurpassed<br />
aerial views of the city.<br />
The story of Venice begins in the 5th century<br />
after the fall of the Western Roman Empire when the<br />
Venetian population on the mainland escaped to the<br />
nearby marshes to find refuge on the sandy islands.<br />
Although the settlements were initially temporary,<br />
the Venetians gradually inhabited the islands on a<br />
permanent basis, driving wooden stakes into the<br />
sandy ground on which they were to construct their<br />
impressive buildings.<br />
By then a trip to Venice had become a rite of<br />
passage for upper class northern Europeans who<br />
congregated in the lagoon city as part of the Italian<br />
Grand Tour. Writers and artists soaked up inspiration<br />
from the commanding architecture that reflected in<br />
the gleaming waters, and the city fast became a symbol<br />
for Italian romance. Today Venice is divided into<br />
six neighbourhoods, each with a distinctly different<br />
character.<br />
Not to be missed city highlights<br />
Venice’s most iconic attraction and one of the most<br />
easily recognised sites in the world is St. Mark’s<br />
Basilica, originally built as the Doge’s private chapel.<br />
Beyond it Saint Mark’s Square, the largest and most<br />
significant square in Venice and a place where people<br />
gather to see and be seen, and where brazen pigeons<br />
wait to be fed.<br />
St. Mark’s Basilica Photo: travelade.com<br />
SA&BEYOND 55
Accademia Fine Arts Museum Photo: Wikipedia<br />
Doges’ Palace Photo: erinatlarge.com<br />
Adjacent is the Doges’ Palace, built in Venetian<br />
Gothic style, and another of the city’s landmark<br />
attractions. The palace was once the residence of the<br />
Doge of Venice, the authority of the former Venetian<br />
Republic. Between the Doge’s Palace and the Marciana<br />
Library are two marble and granite pillars overlooking<br />
the lagoon. They house the statues of the city’s two<br />
patrons saints; the Column of San Marco is topped<br />
with a winged lion while the Column of San Teodoro<br />
holds up a statue of Saint Theodore.<br />
Allow yourself time to appreciate the Peggy<br />
Guggenheim Collection of modernist and surrealist art,<br />
including major works by Picasso, Magritte, Max Ernst,<br />
Giacometti and Jackson Pollock that are exhibited at<br />
the museum. Also for the art lovers is the Accademia<br />
Fine Arts Museum, a must visit for its comprehensive<br />
collection of 15th-18th-century Venetian paintings.<br />
The Grand Canal remains the most prominent<br />
address in Venice and the water reflects the glorious<br />
Venetian architecture of family palaces, Gothic and<br />
Early Renaissance facades. It follows a natural channel<br />
that traces a reverse-S course from San Marco Basilica<br />
to Santa Chiara Church and divides the city into two.<br />
A trip along the canal by vaporetto – or water taxi – is<br />
the best way to enjoy it, although no visit to Venice<br />
would be complete without a Gondola ride, especially<br />
by night.<br />
Allow yourself to get lost as you walk the enchanting<br />
narrow streets and passageways, pause alongside the<br />
inky blue canals and cross over some of the city’s 400<br />
bridges as you seek out the secret gardens for which<br />
the Venice known. No matter how far you venture, it’s<br />
always easy to find your way back to the Grand Canal.<br />
Rialto Market Photo: Venice Tourism<br />
Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop Photo: pegsontheline.com<br />
56<br />
SA&BEYOND
The mad coloured houses of Burano Photo: Oliver Clarke (Flickr)<br />
This lagoon city has a long and glorious culinary<br />
tradition based on fresh seafood and the stalls of the<br />
Rialto and Chioggia markets offer fresh product ready<br />
for the local kitchens. Most Venetians agree that the<br />
city’s best gelato is served in Boutique del Gelato, a<br />
tiny outlet on busy salizzada San Lio. Try the Venetian<br />
tapas, but do save space for a proper sit-down Venetian<br />
meal at one of the canal side bistros.<br />
Special city finds include the Libreria Acqua Alta<br />
bookshop, a treasure trove and home to three very<br />
characterful attention-seeking cats. The books are<br />
charmingly stored in repurposed gondolas, bathtubs,<br />
and elevated shelves to protect them during flooding.<br />
Consider touring Lido on foot or by bicycle to get a<br />
closer look at the Art Nouveau villas and hotels. The<br />
long strip of sand there that separates the Venetian<br />
lagoon from the Adriatic Sea was Europe’s first real<br />
beach resort and at the turn of the 20th century,<br />
Europe’s most fashionable watering hole.<br />
Islands to visit from Venice<br />
Beyond the city of Venice, you’ll find a scattered<br />
collection of islands, each with their own history and<br />
significance. These can be visited by private tour or<br />
ferry. Murano Island is famous for its glass making<br />
craft and the most popular Venetian island among<br />
tourists. Burano with its enchanted colourful painted<br />
houses and picturesque canals is well worth a trip.<br />
Famous for artisan lace, a leaning tower on one of its<br />
churches and a selection of very good restaurants.<br />
The Venetian lagoon’s smaller islands often<br />
had more specific functions. These are Lazzaretto<br />
Nuovo, once a quarantine island, and San Lazzaro<br />
degli Armeni, home to an Armenian monastery. For<br />
something very different, take the hourly ferry to<br />
Sant’Erasmo, the largest island in the lagoon and<br />
sometimes referred to as the Garden of Venice, which is<br />
purely agricultural and produces much of the fresh fruit<br />
and vegetables sold in the city.<br />
Staying in Venice may be more expensive than<br />
staying on the outskirts, but there’s an undeniable<br />
magic to walking the streets late at night and taking in<br />
the views of the gondolas on the canals first thing in the<br />
morning, before the day visitors arrive.<br />
The Essential Details for<br />
booking your visit to Venice<br />
Getting there: There are numerous flights<br />
from South Africa via European hubs into<br />
the Venice Marco Polo Airport. You could<br />
consider combining Venice with an Italian<br />
road trip, as driving time from Rome to<br />
Venice is only 6 hours.<br />
Visas: South African passport holders<br />
require a Schengen Visa to visit Italy.<br />
Accommodation: Recommended hotels<br />
include Al Ponte Antico http://www.<br />
alponteantico.com/ and family run Bellini<br />
Venezia Hotel http://boscolobellini.<br />
hotelinvenice.com/.<br />
Getting around: The ATVO express offers<br />
direct, non-stop transfers from the airport<br />
to the Piazzale Roma square in just 20<br />
minutes. On arrival take a Vaporetto to<br />
the Grand Canal and from there use a<br />
water taxi service. Be sure to use a licensed<br />
one with a yellow stripe and number on<br />
the side.<br />
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Spier Light Art to delight<br />
visitors at this historic<br />
Stellenbosch wine farm<br />
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Written in the Stars Photo: Berco Wilsenach<br />
THE popular annual Spier Light Art will be<br />
presented again from 8 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> to<br />
19 January 2020. Each night, visitors will<br />
experience a dazzling array of light and sound<br />
artworks throughout this historic Stellenbosch farm.<br />
18 diverse artworks will be scattered across the<br />
Spier farm. Some are playful and interactive, while<br />
others invite poignant contemplation. The installations<br />
include:<br />
Lyall Sprong’s Bergson’s Misting Circle – a 4<br />
metre vertical circle of light and mist<br />
Goldendean’s Breathe Goldendean – an<br />
interactive inflatable sculpture that allows you to<br />
lie on it whilst it gently glows and breathes<br />
around you<br />
David Brits’s massive 70 metre glowing shape,<br />
suspended high in one of the oldest oaks living<br />
on the Spier Werf (farmyard)<br />
Themba Stewart and Qondiswa James’s astute<br />
and profound Keep the Lights On, which<br />
reminds us that light in the everyday is a<br />
sociopolitical issue that cannot be taken for<br />
granted<br />
Spier Light Art is free and guests can explore the farm<br />
at their own leisurely pace. The best time is at dusk, to<br />
catch the beautiful sunset and the switching on of the<br />
lights. Be sure to book a dinner or picnic in advance.<br />
Spier Light Art <strong>2019</strong>/2020 builds on the success<br />
of the inaugural festival, held on the estate during the<br />
2018/<strong>2019</strong> festive season. Over this period, thousands<br />
of visitors to Spier were enthralled by an astonishing<br />
array of light art installations conceptualised and<br />
created by some of South Africa’s leading artists and<br />
designers.<br />
Spier Light Art is one of Spier’s Growing for Good initiatives, which empower communities to create positive social and environmental change.<br />
www.spier.co.za<br />
SA&BEYOND 59
Plettenberg Bay<br />
HAPPENINGS GUIDE<br />
PLETT HIGH FIVE<br />
The boss of adventure destinations, Plett, is bringing out<br />
the big guns for a season of adventure in nature. Plett is the<br />
crosscountry of adventure destinations in SA, arguably the<br />
world. With more than 30 adventures across the region, from<br />
the forests of Harkerville to the mountains of Tsitsikamma,<br />
Plett is the ultimate base camp from which to tackle the<br />
toughest, most insane adventures to be found. Canyoning,<br />
abseiling, zip-lining, scuba and skydiving, swimming with seals,<br />
quad biking, blackwater tubing and, of course, leaping off the<br />
world’s highest bungy bridge provide endless exhilaration in<br />
the exquisite wilderness of Plett. Throttle down with a select<br />
mix of unforgettable activities to balance out the thrill: horse<br />
and hiking trails, stand-up paddling, kayaking, surfing, deepsea<br />
angling, marine safaris and animal sanctuaries.<br />
Date: 21 - 28 September<br />
Contact: Plett Tourism | 0445334065<br />
Website: pletttourism.com<br />
ROBBERG XPRESS TAIL RUN<br />
Take flight on Plett’s favourite mountain – Robberg<br />
peninsula, during the Robberg Xpress Trail Run.<br />
The run includes a 10km Robberg Express Tough<br />
Run and a shorter 5km Shy Shark Scenic Run.<br />
Registration at 7am, race starts at 8am. R150 for<br />
the 10km Run and R80 for the 5km Run.<br />
Date: 29 September<br />
Contact: 0827833138<br />
Website: otter.run<br />
AFRICAN OTTER TRAIL RUN<br />
The Otter African Classic Trail Run separates<br />
the men from the boys, so to speak. Each year<br />
The Otter African Trail Run takes place in an<br />
alternating direction, so boring ‘same old same<br />
old’ here! It’s the same route but different climbs<br />
to conquer and all new spectacular views to look<br />
forward to. 2018 will see the event run from West<br />
to East, starting at Nature’s Valley and finishing<br />
at Storms River Mouth Rest Camp. Marathon<br />
Distance. Four river crossings. Over 2600 meters<br />
of elevation gain and 11 significant climbs. This is<br />
what makes The Otter ‘The Grail of Trail’.<br />
Date: 9 - 12 <strong>October</strong><br />
Contact: 0443822932<br />
Website: otter.run<br />
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SEEF TOUR DE PLETT<br />
Scores of local MTB fans strut their stuff, compare<br />
bling, all the while keeping a beady eye on the<br />
competition and at the end of the race a frosty or two<br />
are enjoyed while the ‘war stories’ are shared with<br />
great enthusiasm. This is the 9th Tour de Plett MTB<br />
race, and it caters to all tastes by offering multiple<br />
distances (70km, 45km and a 16km fun ride). The<br />
route showcases Plett and will include Keurbooms<br />
Lagoon Caravan Park for the <strong>2019</strong> race.<br />
Date: 12 <strong>October</strong><br />
Contact: Colin Shave | 0767742435<br />
Website: tourdeplett.co.za<br />
THE WILD CORRIDOR MTB TOUR <strong>2019</strong><br />
The Wild Corridor is not just a ride, it’s a life<br />
experience – true to its routes following elephant<br />
migratory corridors between the Knysna Forests<br />
and Baviaanskloof. This 4 day is hosted by riding<br />
legend Kevin Evans. The race is an experience<br />
of a lifetime, where not only will you experience<br />
some of the most unique mountain biking, but<br />
you’ll also create amazing new friendships and be<br />
a part of a very important conservation effort.<br />
Date: 15 – 19 <strong>October</strong><br />
Contact: The Worx | 0445330816<br />
Website: wildcorridor.co.za<br />
SUNSHINE TOUR SA SENIOR OPEN<br />
This prestigious event is hosted by Bitou<br />
Municipality and will take place at the<br />
Plettenberg Bay Country Club. Mark McNulty<br />
will once again return to defend his crown. There<br />
will also be a 2-day Pro-Am whereby amateurs<br />
will have an opportunity to play side-by-side<br />
with the best senior professional golfers in South<br />
Africa.<br />
WITTEDRIFT BIRDING FESTIVAL<br />
The quiet village of Wittedrift lies at the centre of one<br />
of SA’s best ecotourism regions and is just a few kms<br />
from the famous beaches and tourist attractions of<br />
Plett. Led by qualifi ed guides, visitors can enjoy nine<br />
different bird-watching trails, by car, on foot and<br />
even on horseback. Activities include a birdringing<br />
demonstration by the Nature’s Valley Trust and<br />
evening dinner lectures by leading bird-watching<br />
authorities. You can bird watch, hike, follow running<br />
and horse-riding trails through the bush and forest,<br />
take a game drive, try canoeing and paddle-boarding,<br />
enjoy a family picnic or enjoy the local beaches and<br />
restaurants.<br />
Date: 19 - 27 <strong>October</strong><br />
Contact: 0741266775<br />
Website: wittedriftway.co.za<br />
Date: 22 – 25 <strong>October</strong><br />
Contact: 0712391489<br />
Website: acceleratesport.com<br />
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Photos: Marinus Haakman<br />
Rare opportunity to<br />
visit one of Gauteng’s<br />
most beautiful gardens<br />
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SA&BEYOND
THE magnificent gardens of Mulligatawny<br />
Farm will be open to the public on the<br />
weekend of 12-13 <strong>October</strong> <strong>2019</strong> from 0900<br />
until 1700.<br />
Situated on a private estate near to<br />
Skeerpoort in the Cradle of Humankind, the gardens<br />
were last open in 2017. This year’s open garden is once<br />
again in aid of St George’s Turning Point Foundation,<br />
which helps young people obtain vocational training.<br />
Clubs and special-interest groups can also visit the<br />
gardens on Friday 11 <strong>October</strong>.<br />
“These gardens are rarely open to the public, so we<br />
advise people to take advantage of the opportunity to<br />
see one of Gauteng’s most original - and beautiful -<br />
gardens, while supporting a good cause,” says Marianne<br />
MacRobert, Chair of the St George’s Turning Point<br />
Foundation.<br />
“Because of the distances involved, and the extent of<br />
the grounds, people should plan to spend several hours<br />
there. Food and drink will be on sale, and there are<br />
plenty of places to sit and drink in the beauty, and chat<br />
to friends.”<br />
About a 70 minute drive north of Johannesburg,<br />
and 40 minutes from Lanseria Airport, this 16-hectare<br />
garden is the brainchild of its owner, Michael Hogan,<br />
who drew his inspiration from European landscapes<br />
and Monet’s Water Gardens at Giverny, France. A keen<br />
gardener all his life, Hogan is also an interior decorator<br />
and artist, and he has created a garden full of surprises<br />
and eccentricities, with an air of whimsy and romance.<br />
“My garden is a place where fantasy becomes reality,<br />
so it’s constantly evolving,” he says. “There is always<br />
something new being planned.”<br />
It features a matchless collection of waterlilies,<br />
thousands of roses and irises, a lakeside folly, a garden<br />
cathedral, an orchid house and much else. Other<br />
highlights include sculptures, murals and a potager<br />
(walled vegetable or kitchen garden) with hand-painted<br />
tiles depicting exotic birds.<br />
And talking of birds the garden is exceptionally<br />
rich in birdlife - blue cranes and Cape vultures visit<br />
regularly.<br />
This year, a flower meadow stretching down to<br />
the Skeerpoort River will be on view for the first time,<br />
while the thatched structure alongside the lake has<br />
been converted into an Indian pavilion, featuring a<br />
magnificent peacock mural made by Hogan.<br />
The garden offers many hours of exploration:<br />
visitors are advised to wear comfortable walking shoes,<br />
and to bring a hat and sunscreen. One only needs to be<br />
moderately fit, and there are benches throughout the<br />
garden for rest and contemplation. Much of the garden<br />
is also wheelchair-friendly. Keep in mind that with<br />
many lakes and streams children must be under adult<br />
supervision at all times.<br />
Plants, food and drink will be on sale at the venue.<br />
All proceeds will go to the St George’s Turning Point<br />
Foundation, which was established to assist young<br />
people from disadvantaged backgrounds to obtain<br />
marketable skills through vocational training.<br />
Venue: Farm S86, Skeerpoort, Cradle of Humankind;<br />
GPS coordinates: 25°49’03.7”S 27°46’09.3”E;<br />
Dates: Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 <strong>October</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
- 09h00 to 17h00 (Friday 11 <strong>October</strong> for groups,<br />
clubs only - no food, drinks and plants will be on<br />
sale; pre-bookings only); Tickets: R200 / R100<br />
- children and students / R150 - groups of four or<br />
more; Booking: Webtickets - webtickets.co.za or at<br />
the gate; Safe parking with a shuttle service to the<br />
farm gate is provided. For more info: call James on<br />
083 326 4493 / info@turningpointfoundation.org.<br />
za; https://www.facebook.com/MulligatawnyFarm;<br />
www.turningpointfoundation.org.za; Twitter: @<br />
TPFOpenGarden<br />
About St George’s Turning Point Foundation<br />
The St George’s Turning Point Foundation (TPF) began as a<br />
home for vulnerable children. After running for more than<br />
a decade the house was sold and a foundation established<br />
to provide funding to help disadvantaged young people<br />
acquire the skills they need to obtain jobs. The focus is<br />
on vocational training to produce artisan and other skills<br />
needed by business and industry, and that are within the<br />
reach of the majority. Our belief is that without the realistic<br />
prospect of a job, our young people are condemned to a<br />
life of frustration. We are currently funding students at<br />
Sparrow FET College and St Anthony’s Education Centre in<br />
Boksburg.<br />
For more information, please visit<br />
www.turningpointfoundation.org.za<br />
SA&BEYOND 63
@branzed87<br />
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SA&BEYOND
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