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Swamp 

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Sugar Bowl 

PIO NEE R D AYS IN BELLE GLADE 

PIO NEE R D AYS IN BELLE GLADE 

by Lawrence E. Will 

by Lawrence E. Will 

Cracker Historian and Author of 

Cracker Historian and Author of 

A Cracker History of Okeechobee 

A Cracker History of Okeechobee 

Okeechobee Boats and Skippers 

Okeechobee Boats and Skippers 

Okeechobee Hurricane and the Hoover Dike 

Okeechobee Hurricane and the Hoover Dike 

A Dredgeman of Cape Sable 

A Dredgeman of Cape Sable 

Okeechobee Catfishing 

Okeechobee Catfishing 

GREAT OUTDOOR S PUBLISHING 

GREAT OUTDOOR S PUBLISHING 

4747 28th Street North 

4747 28th Street North 

St. Petersburg, Florida, 33713 

St. Petersburg, Florida, 33713

:tv.tEET T 1;4 , I 

ufhor 

Lawrence E. Will, 

"Cracker Historian of 

the Everglades", writes 

with authority and understanding 

of the pioneer 

days of that region. 

The author has had an 

active and a varied part 

in its development from 

the beginning of its reclamation 

until the present. 

In 1913, he, with four 

others, came to the Everglades 

and started the 

settlement of Okeelanta, 

and were the first to try 

farming in the newly 

draine

CHAPTER ONE 

This Was the Everglades 

Now folks, I reckon there may still be some misguided 

people who picture the Everglades as a watery wilderness 

populated only by alligators, snakes and Seminoles. To be 

sure, I've seen it when it was that way, but now, by gollies, 

the Everglades is mostly pastures, and fields of vegetables 

and sugar cane. Men come from far parts of the world 

to learn our modern ways of farming. Around the shores 

of Okeechobee Lake are villages and towns and cities, and 

the biggest city of them all is Belle Glade, on the lake's 

south-eastern curve. It's got its highways, its super markets 

and its parking meters, just like any other dad blamed 

metropolis. Its population now is 21,000, leastways, so the 

Chamber of Commerce claims. 

But now folks, I'm a-fixing for to tell you a few things 

which transpired here in these woods back in those primitive 

days when this was a wild frontier, when all travel 

had to be by boat, when it would take you a dreary three 

days, or maybe even a week, just to visit the courthouse 

in the county seat. You'll learn that our post office was 

on far off Torry Island, and how the postmaster ran a 

rural free delivery by row boat. You'll hear of the gigantic 

tractor which set fire to the land it was supposed to 

LADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL THIS WAS THE EVERGLADES 9 

7

8 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

THIS WAS THE EVERGLADES 9 

10 10 BELLE BELLE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL BOWL 


8 8 BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL BOWL 

THIS THIS WAS WAS THE THE EVERGLADES 11 11 


THIS THIS WAS WAS THE THE EVERGLADES 9 9 

"Only sawgrass, as far as you could see". 

Sawgrass in in bloom. bloom. 

clear, and how our ice plant made deliveries F. 0. B., in 

other THIS words, WAS THE Flung EVERGLADES Over Board. You'll marvel at the fabulous 

tale of the meeting which incorporated the town. 

"Only sawgrass, as far as you could see". 

You'll learn how we used to fight and frolic, how Belle 

clear, Glade and was almost washed from off the face of the earth, 

"Only how "Only sawgrass, our sawgrass, ice as plant as far far as made as you you could deliveries could see". see". F. 0. B., in 

other all about words, the Flung Mystery Over Farm, Board. and You'll of the marvel Big Fire at the too. fabulous 

folks, clear, clear, tale I and reckon and of how how the you'll our meeting our ice be ice plant amazed. plant which made made incorporated deliveries F. the F. 0. 0. B., town. B., in in 

Yes 

You'll other other 

But words, learn words, 

before how Flung Flung 

we we get Over used Over 

bogged Board. to Board. fight down You'll You'll and with marvel frolic, marvel 

all at these how at the 

tales, fabulous 

you'll 

Belle fabulous 

tale nearabout was tale of almost of the the 

Glade need meeting washed meeting 

to understand from which which off incorporated their face back of ground, the the earth, town. for 

town. 

all You'll this 

You'll about country learn learn the how Mystery was 

how we a 

we 

heap used Farm, used 

different to and to fight fight of then and and Big frolic, from 

frolic, Fire what how too. how Belle it Yes Belle 

is 

folks, Glade right 

Glade 

now. I was reckon was almost Yes, 

almost you'll Lake washed washed be Okeechobee amazed. from from off and 

off the the 

the face Everglades 

face of of the the earth, were 

earth, 

all a different 

all about about the world 

the Mystery Mystery 

when Farm, reclamation 

Farm, and and of of 

started, the the Big Big 

different Fire Fire too. too. 

even Yes Yes 

But before we get bogged down with all these tales, 

folks, from 

folks, 

what I reckon I reckon 

the first you'll you'll 

settlers be be amazed. amazed. 

you'll nearabout need to understand found when their they back arrived ground, about for 

this the But time country But before of before World was we we a War get heap get bogged I, bogged different and that, down down then you with with might from all all these say, what these wasn't tales, it tales, is 

right you'll too you'll blamed now. nearabout Yes, long Lake need ago. need Okeechobee to to understand and their their back Everglades back ground, ground, were for for 

a this different this 

So, country country 

in your world was was 

mind's when a a heap heap 

eye, reclamation different just try started, then to 

then 

picture from from different what what even it this 

it is 

from right country 

right what now. now. 

was the Yes, Yes, 

like first Lake Lake 

back settlers Okeechobee then. found There and when and the was they Everglades the arrived lake about shore were were 

the a swamp, different a time and of world World there 

world when War was 

when reclamation I, the and sawgrass that, you started, started, 

Everglades, might different say, a wasn't heap even even 

too from different 

from blamed what what 

from the long the first each ago. first settlers settlers 

other. found The 

found when lake 

when 

itself they they arrived was 

arrived 

blamed about about 

Custard apple trees completely blanketed by moon vines. 

the near 

the time 

So, surrounded 

time of of World World 

in your mind's by War wide 

War I, 

eye, miles and I, and that, 

just of 

that, 

try wet you you 

to and might might 

picture boggy say, say, 

what marshes, wasn't wasn't 

too blamed long ago. 

this 

too 

country and blamed so it was was long 

like many ago. 

back years then. before There there was were the lake any roads. shore 

swamp, But So, along So, in and in your the your there shore, mind's mind's was on eye, the eye, a slight just sawgrass just try ridge, try to Everglades, to picture was picture a what jungle what a heap this of this 

different country cypress, country was rubber, from was like each like pop back back other. ash then. and then. The There cabbage There lake was itself was trees the the was lake lake thick blamed shore shore as 

near swamp, they swamp, surrounded could and and crowd. there there by That was wide was part the miles the sawgrass of of the wet woods and Everglades, along boggy the marshes, a south a heap heap 

shore different and from half from way each each up other. other. eastern The The lake side, lake itself was itself a was dense was blamed forest blamed 

of near near tropical surrounded custard by by apple wide wide miles trees. miles of For of wet wet a and mile and boggy to boggy two marshes, 

miles 

back from the water's edge they grew, and on all the 

extended forty forty or or fifty fifty miles miles in in width, and and it it came came to to 

within a a few few miles miles of of Loxahatchee, of of Ft. Ft. Lauderdale and and 

Miami. It It was was a a huge, huge, enormous scope scope of of grass, grass, and and that that 

I'll I'll have have you you know. know. 

Since Since Belle Belle Glade Glade was was partly partly in in the the custard apple apple forest forest 

and and partly partly in in the the sawgrass, I'd I'd better better tell tell you you about about them them 

both. both. For For one one thing, thing, although now now it's it's all all the the same, same, 

at at first first their their soils soils were were different. Arriving settlers discovered 

that that the the muck muck soil soil in in the the custard apple apple woods woods was was 

dis 

firm firm and and black black and and granular. In In dry dry years years it it could could crack crack 

into into chasms into into which which you you might might step step clear clear to to your your knee knee 

or or deeper. But But it it could could raise raise the the most most stupendous vegetables, 

solid solid and and delicious, and and without a a pound pound of of fertil 

fertil 

vegeizerizer. 

Sawgrass land, land, on on the the other other hand, hand, was was a a brown and and 

fibrous peat, peat, the the partly decayed residue of of generations of of 

sawgrass which which had had died died and and rotted, soft soft as as a a mattress, 

and and on on top, top, fluffy fluffy as as feathers. You'd You'd sink sink to to your your shoe shoe 

tops tops at at every every step. step. Until Until it it was was stirred and and aerated and and 

had had decomposed into into black black muck, muck, it it hardly would would raise raise 

anything, fertilizer or or no. no. 

But But suppose now now we we take take a a closer closer look look at at that that custard 

apple apple swamp, so so exotic exotic and and so so beautiful. There There was was noth- noth- 


and so it was many years before there were any roads. 

But along the shore, on a slight ridge, was a jungle of 

cypress, rubber, pop ash and cabbage trees as thick as 


they could crowd. That part of the woods along the south 

and shore so and half way up the eastern side, was a dense forest 

Custard 

it Custard was 

apple 

many apple trees trees years 

completely completely before 

blanketed blanketed there by were by moon moon any 

vines. vines. roads. 

But of tropical along the custard shore, apple on a trees. slight For ridge, a mile was to a two jungle miles of 

cypress, and back and so from so it rubber, it was the was many water's pop many years ash years edge and before before they cabbage there grew, there trees were and were as any on thick any all roads. roads. the as 

they islands But But along could along as well. crowd. the the shore, About shore, That on 33,000 part on a slight a of acres slight the ridge, woods of ridge, solid was along was custard a the a jungle jungle south apple of of 

shore cypress, trees cypress, there and rubber, half rubber, were, way pop and up pop ash that's the ash eastern and a and heap cabbage cabbage side, of woods. was trees trees a dense as as thick thick forest as as 

of they they tropical Then could could 

there crowd. custard crowd. 

was That apple the 

That part sawgrass trees. part of of the For the 

Everglades. woods a woods mile along to along 

Beyond two the the miles south the 

south 

back shore lake shore shore from and and half swamp the half way water's way and up up the stretching edge the eastern eastern they side, for grew, side, a was hundred was and a dense a on dense miles all forest forest the to 

islands of the 

of tropical state's 

tropical as well. south custard custard About tip, apple was 

apple 33,000 trees. that 

trees. acres vast For For of expanse, a solid mile a mile custard to that 

to two two 

endless apple miles miles 

trees back marsh, 

back there from from 

of knife were, the the water's edged and water's that's sawgrass, edge edge a heap they they 

growing of grew, grew, woods. and from 

and on waist 

on all all the to 

the 

head islands islands 

Then high as as 

there in well. well. 

shallow About About 

was the water. 33,000 33,000 

sawgrass I'm acres acres 

telling of of solid 

Everglades. you 

solid 

for custard custard 

Beyond a fact, apple you 

apple 

the 

could trees trees there 

lake shore travel 

there were, 

swamp from 

were, and the 

and 

and lake, that's that's 

stretching down a heap a heap 

the of 

for canal 

of woods. woods. 

a hundred to Ft. miles Lauderdale, 

Then state's and Then there from south there was the tip, was boat's the was the sawgrass high that pilot vast Everglades. expanse, house you'd that Beyond Beyond see endless noth 

the the 

to 

the 

ing marsh, lake lake on shore that shore of knife swamp day swamp long edged and trip and sawgrass, stretching but an unbroken growing for for a hundred a sea hundred from of sawgrass, waist miles miles to to 

head yes, the the state's high only state's in south sawgrass shallow south tip, tip, water. was was far that I'm that vast telling vast you expanse, you could for that a look, that fact, endless endless just you 

could sawgrass marsh, marsh, travel of of waving knife from knife edged the and edged lake, sawgrass, glistening down the growing canal growing the to sun. from from Ft. From waist Lauderdale, 

head Cypress and high high from in in shallow Swamp shallow the boat's water. to water. high the I'm I'm pilot pine telling telling house lands you you you'd for of for a the see fact, a fact, noth 

East you you 

waist the to to 

head Big 

ing Coast, could could on travel that it travel day from from long the the trip lake, lake, but down an down unbroken the the canal canal sea to to of Ft. sawgrass, Ft. Lauderdaledale, 

only and and from sawgrass from the the boat's boat's as high far high as pilot pilot you house house could you'd you'd look, see see noth 

just noth 

Lauder 

yes, 

sawgrass ing ing on on that that waving day day long long and trip trip glistening but but an an unbroken in the sea sun. sea of of From sawgrass, 

the 

Big yes, yes, Cypress only only sawgrass Swamp as to as far the far as pine as you lands you could could of look, the look, East just just 

Coast, sawgrass it waving waving and and glistening in in the the sun. sun. From From the the 

Big Big Cypress Cypress Swamp Swamp to to the the pine pine lands lands of of the the East East 

Coast, Coast, it it 

Small Small custard custard apple apple trees trees on on Torry Torry Island. Island. 

ing ing like like it it in in the the whole whole United States, nor nor in in the the whole whole 

wide wide world world either, I I reckon. Golly Golly folks, folks, I I just just wish wish you you 

could could have have been been here here then. then. That That was was a a sight sight you'd you'd not not 

forget. 

By By nature the the custard apples love love to to grow grow in in water, 

but but after after drainage started here, here, they they found found themselves 

to to be be high high and and mighty dry. dry. The The tree tree itself itself was was nothing 

much. much. It It wasn't tall, tall, it it had had no no shape, shape, you you couldn't saw saw it it 

into into boards and and you you couldn't eat eat its its fruit. fruit. But But it it grew grew in in 

the the finest finest soil soil in in all all the the state, state, and and when when settlers started 

flocking here, here, they they squatted where where they they darned well well pleaseed 

and and they they cleared off off those those custard apple apple trees trees in in a 

pleas 

a

through these gloomy and mysterious woods, the silence 

broken only by a hawk's lonely scream, was an experience 

to remember. Yes folks, I just wish that you could have 

been there and seen it too. 


10 10 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

told me he was the first to discover these 

times. When hunting, he used to camp 

Democrat River, but a wind tide had f 


11 

13 

mighty blamed few years. Now they are nearabout as 

scarce as the dodo bird, and that's a shame for sure. 

The trees weren't high, maybe fifteen or twenty feet 

I'd say, and the wood was nearabout as light as cork. Instead 

of a trunk, its crooked branches, twisting crazily, 

sprung from outreaching buttress roots. Among its green 

and glossy leaves you might glimpse big blossoms, cream 

colored and scarlet centered, or maybe you'd see the yellow, 

fragrant fruit, no bigger than an apple. Like a canteloup 

in taste it was, or something like a ripe persimmon, 

but good grief, you couldn't eat the cussed fruit, for it 

was nothing but a mass of seed in a tough inedible pulp. 

On the ground, in angles of the bracing roots, grew 

innumerable lacy ferns, while higher than a hunter's head 

rose those seed specked leaves of giant ferns, their fronds 

uncoiling in Ionic volutes. Covering this forest like a tent 

was a perfect blanket, a solid mat, of green moon vines, 

spangled at night and on cloudy days with great white 

flowers, a gorgeous sight to see. Under those leafy branches 

and their moon vine cover you might walk for miles and 

scarcely glimpse the sky. Looping from branch to branch 

in these cool and shadowy woods were vines with baseballsized, 

yellowish brown gourds. This was the "Everglades 

gourd", said to be found nowhere else but here. Just as 

numerous and as tenacious as these vines were those yellow 

strands which tried to bar your way, spun by enormous 

brown and yellow spiders. 

In the murky gloom of this strange forest you might 

chance upon a crooked pop ash tree, a lofty cypress or a 

spreading rubber. Perched on limbs and branches you'd 

espy many pineapple-like air plants blossoming in gaudy 

red and orange, while adding life to this placid scene, 

squirrels leaped from branch to branch, while gorgeous 

buntings flitted busily to here and yonder. Wandering 

through these gloomy and mysterious woods, the silence 

broken only by a hawk's lonely scream, was an experience 

to remember. Yes folks, I just wish that you could have 

been there and seen it too. 

Sawgrass in in bloom. 

extended forty or or fifty miles in in width, and and it it came to 

to 

within a a few few miles of of Loxahatchee, of of Ft. Ft. Lauderdale and 

and 

Miami. It It was was a a huge, enormous scope of of grass, and and that 

that 

I'll I'll have you you know. 

Since Belle Glade was was partly in in the the custard apple forest 

and and partly in in the the sawgrass, I'd I'd better tell tell you you about them 

both. For For one one thing, although now now it's it's all all the the same, 

at at first their soils were different. Arriving settlers dis 

discovered 

that that the the muck soil soil in in the the custard apple woods was 

was 

firm and and black and and granular. In In dry dry years it it could crack 

into into chasms into into which you you might step step clear to to your knee 

or or deeper. But But it it could raise the the most stupendous vegetables, 

solid and and delicious, and and without a a pound of of fertilizerizer. 

Sawgrass land, on on the the other hand, was was a a brown and 

and 

fibrous peat, the the partly decayed residue of of generations of 

of 

sawgrass which had had died died and and rotted, soft soft as as a a mattress, 

and and on on top, top, fluffy as as feathers. You'd sink sink to to your shoe 

tops tops at at every step. Until it it was was stirred and and aerated and 

and 

had had decomposed into into black muck, it it hardly would raise 

anything, fertilizer or or no. 

no. 

But But suppose now now we we take take a a closer look look at at that that custard 

apple swamp, so so exotic and and so so beautiful. There was was noth- 

CHAPTER TWO 

Calusas Lived Here Too 

Folks, I was a-fixing for to tell you of the first people 

who came here to live where Belle Glade is today, those 

farmers who came during World War I. But first I reckon 

it wouldn't hurt to tell of some earlier settlers, and I don't 

mean a few years earlier either, but centuries! They were 

those naked redskins who built our mounds, and they lived 

here for a right smart long time. 

In that area known as Chosen, between Belle Glade 

and the one time shore of Lake Okeechobee, there are a 

couple of Indian mounds. The big one, called the Shell 

Small Small custard apple apple trees trees on on Torry Island. 

Mound, was a place of habitation for countless generations 

of Redskins. On its top are now some of the finest homes 

in town, but the archeologists claim that it was the abode 

of a race of Indians dating from the year 1000 to about 

1700 A.D. In a pasture south-west of it and 100 yards away 

and bordered by a big clump of bamboo, is what is left 

of their Sand or Burial Mound. Old Democrat River used 

to flow between these two, forking at the Living Mound. 

ing ing like like it it in in the the whole United States, nor nor in in the the whole 

wide world either, I I reckon. Golly folks, I I just just wish you 

you 

could have been here then. That was was a a sight you'd not 

not 

forget. 

By By nature the the custard apples love love to to grow in in water, 

but but after drainage started here, they found themselves 

to to be be high and and mighty dry. dry. The The tree tree itself was was nothing 

much. It It wasn't tall, tall, it it had had no no shape, you you couldn't saw saw it 

it 

into into boards and and you you couldn't eat eat its its fruit. But But it it grew in 

in 

the the finest soil soil in in all all the the state, and and when settlers started 

flocking here, they squatted where they darned well well pleaseed 

and and they cleared off off those custard apple trees in in a 

a 

George Cason, whose father had been the first to live 

on the lake's south shore, up Ritta River at Lake Harbor, 

told me he was the first to discover these mounds in recent 

times. When hunting, he used to camp at the mouth of 

Democrat River, but a wind tide had flooded the camp 

13

31 


stating that 

than a vast mighty blamed few years. Now they are nearabout as 

for all time scarce as the dodo bird, and that's a shame for sure. 

CHAPTER TWO 

ld see them The trees weren't high, maybe fifteen or twenty feet 

I'd say, and the wood was nearabout as light as cork. Instead 

of a trunk, its crooked branches, twisting crazily, 

.from Lake 

the Everspruniami Canal and glossy leaves you might glimpse big blossoms, cream 

from outreaching buttress roots. Among its green 

colored and scarlet centered, or maybe you'd see the yellow, 

fragrant fruit, no bigger than an apple. Like a cante 

Calusas Lived Here Too 

t River was 

loup in taste it was, or something like a ripe persimmon, 

expedition 

but good grief, you couldn't eat the cussed fruit, for it 

enough, he 

was nothing but a mass of seed in a tough inedible pulp. 

iver's fork. 

hey weren't On the ground, in angles of the bracing roots, grew 

innumerable lacy ferns, while higher than a hunter's head 

rose those seed specked leaves of giant ferns, their fronds 

Folks, I was a-fixing for to tell you of the first people 

s, "ere the uncoiling in Ionic volutes. Covering this forest like a tent 

who came here to live where Belle Glade is today, those 

astir." The was a perfect blanket, a solid mat, of green moon vines, 

farmers who came during World War I. But first I reckon 

were rowed spangled at night and on cloudy days with great white 

it wouldn't hurt to tell of some earlier settlers, and I don't 

for the last flowers, a gorgeous sight to see. Under those leafy branches 

mean a few years earlier either, but centuries! They were 

iles to come. and their moon vine cover you might walk for miles and 

those naked redskins who built our mounds, and they lived 

more than scarcely glimpse the sky. Looping from branch to branch 

here for a right smart long time. 

ith a slight in these cool and shadowy woods were vines with baseballsized, 

yellowish brown gourds. This was the "Everglades 

and the one time shore of Lake Okeechobee, there are a 

In that area known as Chosen, between Belle Glade 

of the trees 

network to gourd", said to be found nowhere else but here. Just as 

couple of Indian mounds. The big one, called the Shell 

e approach numerous and as tenacious as these vines were those yellow 

strands which tried to bar your way, spun by enorm 

of Redskins. On its top are now some of the finest homes 

Mound, was a place of habitation for countless generations 

ater course 

e machetes, ous brown and yellow spiders. 

in town, but the archeologists claim that it was the abode 

journey is In the murky gloom of this strange forest you might 

of a race of Indians dating from the year 1000 to about 

on is reachchancextending spreading rubber. Perched on limbs and branches you'd 

and bordered by a big clump of bamboo, is what is left 

upon a crooked pop ash tree, a lofty cypress or a 

1700 A.D. In a pasture south-west of it and 100 yards away 

trees which espy many pineapple-like air plants blossoming in gaudy 

of their Sand or Burial Mound. Old Democrat River used 

a couple of red and orange, while adding life to this placid scene, 

to flow between these two, forking at the Living Mound. 

exists, but squirrels leaped from branch to branch, while gorgeous 

George Cason, whose father had been the first to live 

apples. Our buntings flitted busily to here and yonder. Wandering 

on the lake's south shore, up Ritta River at Lake Harbor, 

ur voyage, through these gloomy and mysterious woods, the silence 

told me he was the first to discover these mounds in recent 

tion of the broken only by a hawk's lonely scream, was an experience 

times. When hunting, he used to camp at the mouth of 

white man, to remember. Yes folks, I just wish that you could have 

Democrat River, but a wind tide had flooded the camp 

LADE FROM been SW AMP there TO and SUGAR seen it BOWL too. 

DEMOCRAT RIVER 31 13 




Big Ben tractor and experimental plow. 

I was one of them, set up camp there, and in a few years 

Okeelanta became the biggest town, except for Moore 

Haven, (a;d of course, Davie, back of Ft. Lauderdale, the 

first one of all) in the whole dad burned Everglades. At 

first, though, it looked as if Glade Crest was likely to 

eclipse Okeelanta, but floods and frosts and frontier hardships 

like to have finished them both. Glade Crest has 

vanished without a trace, but Okeelanta has survived - 

well, to a certain extent, that is. 

Holland and Butterworth, who had sold land for R. J. 

Bolles, but had a falling out, bought from the Southern 

States Land and Timber Company all of Section 20, Township 

44 and Range 38, and they christened it Glade Crest. 

This land they then sold in five and ten acre tracts, "sight 

unseen", to people in the north. When the first settlers 

arrived the land had not yet even been surveyed. However, 

the following fall a surveyor, Cleveland W. Horne arrived. 

In later years he was to have the honor of being Grand 

Master of Masons in Florida. Horne ran a line from the 

coast, arid subdivided the section into ten acre tracts. 

On this job, while burning off the sawgrass, some of 

the crew got surrounded by the raging fire and had to 

swim the canal. That wasn't so bad, but a few days later, 

GLADE CREST 35 

CHAPTER THREE 

CHAPTER THREE 

Democrat River 


Sawgrass plow with mouldboard slatted for better scouring. 

From the time the Chosen mounds were abandoned by 

the Calusas (or what ever tribe they might have been) 

right on down till the days of the Seminole War, a good 

300 years, we don't know a thing of what might have 

transpired in this Belle Glade-Chosen area. During those 

primeval days the only distinguishing f ea tu res of this location 

were those same Indian mounds, and the largest and 

longest of the lake's "dead rivers", old Democrat. The earliest 

mention of Democrat River was recorded by Lieutenant 

Henry H. Benson of the 2nd Artillery, who in 1855 had 

cruised down the Kissimmee River and along the Lake's east 

shore. Of Democrat he says, 

From the time the Chosen mounds were abandoned by 

the Calusas (or what ever tribe they might have been) 

right on down till the days of the Seminole War, a good 

300 years, we don't know a thing of what might have 

transpired in this Belle Glade-Chosen area. During those 

primeval days the only distinguishing f ea tu res of this location 

were those same Indian mounds, and the largest and 

longest of the lake's "dead rivers", old Democrat. The earliest 

mention of Democrat River was recorded by Lieutenant 

Henry H. Benson of the 2nd Artillery, who in 1855 had 

cruised down the Kissimmee River and along the Lake's east 


one of these same boys, while far from the settlement, got 

bitten by a moccasin. His ankle swelled until he couldn't 

work, so the crew abandoned surveying and began frantically 

to hack a trail through the head high sawgrass. 

They knew the direction to the settlement but with grass 

so high, couldn't see any buildings. It was pitch dark when 

they got to the canal, and they began to shout. Finally a 

settler heard the racket and rescued them with his boat. 

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing to 

medicine in the camp. The boy must have been pretty 

tough for the leg got well, but he was promoted to be camp 

cook after that. 

"At the extreme southern shore (we) entered a large outlet 

80 yards wide at the entrance and six feet deep. After 

proceeding down this outlet half a mile, creek forked, one 

prong to the southwest and the other to the southeast. This is 

the largest outlet on the southern shore." 

"At the extreme southern shore (we) entered a large outlet 

80 yards wide at the entrance and six feet deep. After 

proceeding down this outlet half a mile, creek forked, one 

prong to the southwest and the other to the southeast. This is 

the largest outlet on the southern shore." 

By the winter of 1914-15, besides Slade, there were the 

families of Baker, Daniel, Elsasser, Herndon, Garrett, Metcalf 

and two Bissell families and a Mrs. Chisolm who was 

sister to one of the Bissell ladies. Later, Shields and his 

son, who had some boats and barges, started a little store, 

and since the Hillsboro canal had just been opened, "Shorty" 

Woods, in his boat Bonnie made occasional trips 

down it to the coast. Although this route was far shorter 

than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft. 

Next to visit and describe this river and the man who 

gave it a name, was Major Archie P. WiUiams in 1883, and 

here's how that came about. A grand effort was being 

made by Hamilton Disston, a saw maker from Philadelphia, 

Next to visit and describe this river and the man who 

gave it a name, was Major Archie P. WiUiams in 1883, and 

here's how that came about. A grand effort was being 


LADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL GLADE CREST 35 

otato, but it is hotter than seven hunlthough 

I had seen men taste wampee, 

Major Williams concludes his report by stating that 

the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast 

25 

25

26 26 BELLE SW AMP TO GLADE FROM SW 

26 BELLE GLADE FROM AMP 

SW TO 

AMP SUGAR 

TO BOWL 

SUGAR BOWL 

3031 

BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

36 36 

BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL BOWL 

to to the of He had one million 

of to 25 lion 

to 

develop develop 

the the 

interior interior 

of of 

Florida. Florida. 

He He 

had had 

bought bought 

one one 

mil 

million 

acres acres 

of of 

land land 

reaching reaching 

from from 

Orlando Orlando 

to to 

25 25 

miles miles 

south 

south 

of of he had of 

Lake Lake 

Okeechobee. Okeechobee. 

Already Already 

he he 

had had 

connected connected 

Lake Lake 

Okee 

Okeechobechobee 

via the and via via 

the the 

Kissimmee Kissimmee 

River River 

and and 

some some 

intervening 

intervening 

lakes, his in the cow of lakes, 

with with 

his his 

headquarters headquarters 

in in 

the the 

cow cow 

camp camp 

of of 

Kissim 

Kissimmeemee. 

In he had also the big In In 

addition, addition, 

he he 

had had 

also also 

connected connected 

the the 

big big 

lake lake 

with 

with 

the the and the of the 

Caloosahatchee Caloosahatchee 

River River 

and and 

the the 

Gulf Gulf 

of of 

Mexico. Mexico. 

Since 

Since 

many of had many 

of of 

Disston's Disston's 

principal principal 

men men 

had had 

come come 

from from 

Louisiana, 

Louisiana, 

the the the 

New New 

Orleans Orleans 

Times-Democrat Times-Democrat 

paper paper 

became became 

interested 

interested 

in in the for of this in 

the the 

possibilities possibilities 

for for 

development development 

of of 

this this 

newly newly 

opened 

opened 

part of In this had part 

of of 

Florida. Florida. 

In In 

1882 1882 

this this 

newspaper newspaper 

had had 

sent sent 

Major 

Major 

Williams on an Williams on on 

an an 

exploring exploring 

expedition expedition 

from from 

Kissimmee Kissimmee 

down 

down 

the the to and on the the 

river 

river 

to 

to 

Lake 

Lake 

Okeechobee 

Okeechobee 

and 

and 

on 

on 

through 

through 

the 

the 

Caloosa 

Caloosahatchehatchee 

to the the to this to 

to 

the 

the 

Gulf, 

Gulf, 

the 

the 

first 

first 

boat 

boat 

ever 

ever 

to 

to 

make 

make 

this 

this 

trip. 

trip. 

The The the a The 

following 

following 

year 

year 

the 

the 

Times-Democrat 


organized 

organized 

a large 

a large 

expedition to the and expedition 

to 

to 

explore 

explore 

the 

the 

lake's 

lake's 

southern 

southern 

shore, 

shore, 

and 

and 

then 

then 

to to the of the to 

to 

strike 

strike 

south 

south 

through 

through 

the 

the 

heart 

heart 

of 

of 

the 

the 

Everglades 

Everglades 

to 

to 

Shark on the Shark 

River 

River 

on 

on 

the 

the 

Gulf. 

Gulf. 

Now this was a into and for 

Now 

this 

this 

was 

was 

a bold 

a bold 

adventure 

adventure 

into 

into 

unknown 

unknown 

and 

and 

for 

forbiddinbidding 

to be territory, 

territory, 

to 

to 

be 

be 

sure. 

sure. 

Although 

Although 

such 

such 

explorations 

explorations 

had had the had had 

been 

been 

attempted 

attempted 

during 

during 

the 

the 

Indian 

Indian 

war, 

war, 

none 

none 

had 

had 

pene 

penetratetrated 

far. As a 

far. 

far. 

As 

As 

surveyor 

surveyor 

George 

George 

Mackay 

Mackay 

testified 

testified 

before 

before 

a 

a 

committee of committee 

of 

of 

congress. 

congress. 

"Very can be of the "Very 

little 

little 

can 

can 

be 

be 

known 

known 

of 

of 

the 

the 

North 

North 

Glades. 

Glades. 

They 

They 

are are and it is to are 

uniformly 

uniformly 

saw-grass, 

saw-grass, 

and 

and 

it 

it 

is 

is 

impossible 

impossible 

to 

to 

penetrate 

penetrate 

them in and in low are 

them 

with 

with 

canoes· 

canoes· 

in 

in 

high 

high 

water, 

water, 

and 

and 

in 

in 

low 

low 

water 

water 

they 

they 

are 

are 

so so is to so 

generally 

generally 

boggy 

boggy 

that 

that 

is 

is 

impossible 

impossible 

to 

to 

explore explore 

them 

them 

on on on 

foot." 

foot." 

The The was to the 

The 



expedition 

expedition 

was 

was 

to 

to 

investigate 

investigate 

the 

the 

Everglades, to on the of it, to see 

Everglades, 

to 

to 

check 

check 

on 

on 

the 

the 

possibility 

possibility 

of 

of 

draining 

draining 

it, 

it, 

to 

to 

see 

see 

what its soil to the tion and of life of the and at the tion 

what 

crops 

crops 

its 

its 

soil 

soil 

might 

might 

produce, 

produce, 

to 

to 

ascertain 

ascertain 

the 

the 

condi 

condition 

and 

and 

manner 

manner 

of 

of 

life 

life 

of 

of 

the 

the 

Indians, 

Indians, 

and 

and 

at 

at 

the 

the 

request 

request 

of of the to on the of 

the 

the 

Western 

Western 

Union 

Union 

company, 

company, 

to 

to 

report 

report 

on 

on 

the 

the 

practi 

practicabilitcability 

of a line the of 

of 

constructing 

constructing 

a telegraph 

a telegraph 

line 

line 

through 

through 

the 

the 

Glades. 

Glades. 

The The of a The 

party, 

party, 

besides 

besides 

Major 

Major 

Williams, 

Williams, 

consisted 

consisted 

of 

of 

a civil 

a civil 

engineer, an a and Asengineer, 

an 

an 

artist, 

artist, 

a 

a 

mechanic 

mechanic 

and 

and 

Captain 

Captain 

Francis 

Francis 

As- 

As- 

stating that big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred 

firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee, 

than a vast 

for all time I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking 

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no long 

ld see them 

er showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a 

few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles, 

.from Lake 

and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that 

the Everiami 

Canal 

wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable 

tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I 

know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet 

t River was strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got 

expedition unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee 

enough, and he squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even 

iver's fork. the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up 

hey weren't sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their 

bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off. 

s, "ere the 

As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed 

astir." The 

also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence. 

were rowed "All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved 

for the last by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking 

of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alli 

les to come. 

more than gator would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression 

we cannot avoid." 

ith a slight 

of the trees As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat 

to deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their 

network 

e approach boats could float and that day they made a mile and a 

ater course half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout 

five feet square, and on the 28th their first island, 

e machetes, 

journey some is five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the 

on is reachextending 

and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles, 

islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper 

trees which and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they 

a couple then of were in Shark River, which they descended to its 

exists, but mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. Here they boarded the 

pples. Our schooner which had come to meet them for the return to 

ur voyage, civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had 

tion of the taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day 

white man, in Shark River, had been only three miles a day. 

Lauderdale, yet yet it it wasn't wasn't very very popular. popular. The The locks locks were were six six 

miles miles from from town, town, and and since since the the water water below below was was too too shoal shoal 

to to navigate, navigate, all all goods goods had had to to be be transferred from from the the locks locks 

over over a a rutted rutted sandy sandy road road through through the the piney piney woods woods to to Deer 

Deer 

field. field. But But good good gosh, gosh, when when you you got got there, there, except except for for the the 

railroad, railroad, you you still still hadn't hadn't got got nowhere! nowhere! Yet Yet by by the the spring spring 

of of 1915 1915 there there already already were were some some 72 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts 

camped camped at at Glade Glade Crest, Crest, the the most most I I wouldn't wouldn't doubt, doubt, who who 

ever ever lived lived there there at at one one time. time. But But friend, friend, they they were were having having 

their their troubles. troubles. 

Glade Glade Crest Crest was was in in the the pure pure old old peat peat of of the the sawgrass sawgrass 

Everglades, new new and and raw. raw. I I know know exactly exactly what what they they had had 

to to contend contend with, with, for for I I was was having having the the same same problems problems at at 

the the very very same same time time in in Okeelanta. Water Water no no longer longer covered covered 

the the land, land, but but it it wasn't wasn't far far below below the the surface, surface, and and clearing clearing 

that that sawgrass sawgrass was was a a terrific terrific task, task, for for no no machines machines which which 

we we had had could could do do it. it. 

The The land land salesmen salesmen had had told told us us all, all, "Just "Just mow mow off off the the 

sawgrass, sawgrass, then then plow plow the the ground ground with with a a hand hand push push plow." plow." 

Mrs. Mrs. Daniel Daniel has has said said that that they they even even had had told told her. her. "A "A familily 

of of four four could could make make a a living living on on a a single single acre, acre, since since four four 

fam 

crops crops could could be be grown grown each each year". year". Oh Oh yes, yes, they they even even said, said, 

and and backed backed it it up up with with government reports, reports, "Frost "Frost has has 

never never been been known known to to damage damage the the tenderest tenderest vegetation." 

And And gee gee whiz, whiz, they they even even claimed claimed there there were were no no mosquitoes, 

either! either! 

That That first first winter, winter, according according to to Herman Herman Herndon, Herndon, there there 

were were fifteen fifteen frosts frosts and and freezes freezes from from December till till April April 

5th. 5th. Farmers Farmers tried tried to to protect protect their their little little crops crops by by burning burning 

piles piles of of sawgrass, sawgrass, but but the the heat heat mostly mostly went went straight straight up, up, 

so so some some plants plants were were scorched scorched while while the the majority majority simply simply 

froze. froze. Anyway, Anyway, by by the the second second night, night, there there were were no no more more 

sawgrass sawgrass piles. piles. Then Then they they tried tried covering covering the the plants plants with with 

muck. muck. This This worked worked fine fine once once or or twice twice and and with with small small plants, plants, 

but but the the covering covering and and uncovering was was near near about about as as damaginaging 

as as the the frost. frost. 

dam 

Since Since the the first first tractors tractors couldn't couldn't clear clear the the sawgrass, sawgrass, all all 

this this had had to to be be done done by by hand. hand. Sawgrass Sawgrass first first was was chopped chopped 

GLADE GLADE CREST CREST 

37 37 

DEMOCRAT RIVER 31 

DEMOCRAT RIVER 


"Rim "Rim Dike. Torry at left, 

Canal" bordering Herbert Hoover Dike. Torry Island at left, 

"Rim 

with 

Canal" 

Belle Glade 

bordering Herbert Hoover 

camps 

Dike. 

and Torry Island 

at at left, 

with Belle Glade Marina. Fishing camps and bridge at center. 

Golf 

with Belle Glade at right, 

Marina. Fishing camps and bridge 

with 

at center. 

Golf course at right, bordering Hillsboro Canal, with North 

Golf New 

course 

River 

at 

Canal 

right, bordering 

off. 

Hillsboro Canal, 

gate 

with 

and 

North 

New River Canal branching off. Hurricane gate and 

New River Canal 

at 

branching 

canal off. Hurricane 

All of the 

gate 

land 

and 

pumping station 

pumping canal entrance. All of the land 

to 

station 

right of 

at 

Rim 

canal 

Canal 

entrance. 

was 

All 

lake 

of the land 

shown to 

shown right 

to of 

right Rim 

of Canal 

Rim was 

Canal lake 

was bottom. 

lake bottom. 

27 27 

27 

down down with with a a machete, machete, unless unless you you were were lucky lucky enough enough to to 



and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time 

to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them 

now! 

get get the the cussed cussed grass grass to to burn. burn. Then, Then, with with a a heavy heavy planter's planter's 

hoe, hoe, the the stubs stubs and and roots roots were were grubbed grubbed up, up, and and the the tough, tough, 

rope-like rope-like connecting runners runners were were pulled pulled up up with with a a potato potato 

rake rake and and tossed tossed behind behind to to dry. dry. After After the the sawgrass sawgrass had had been been 

grubbed grubbed up, up, then then the the soft soft ground ground could could be be plowed plowed with with a a 

And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake 

Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades, 

yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal 

was surveyed some thirty years later. 

push push plow. plow. In In a a long, long, hard hard day day (all (all our our days days were were long long 

and and hard, hard, so so it it seemed), seemed), one one man man could could grub grub up up a a patch patch 

of of saw saw grass grass about about fifty fifty feet feet square. square. That's That's one-seventeenth 

of of an an acre. acre. To To get get one one acre acre ready ready for for planting planting was was about about 

a a month's month's job job for for one one man. man. Yet Yet that that first first winter winter that's that's 

But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was 

like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition 

gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he 

never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork. 

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't 

even noticed. 

how it all was done. 

' 


' 

Worst Worst of of all, all, we we learned learned that that on on sawgrass sawgrass land land nothing nothing 

would would grow grow but but sawgrass sawgrass ! ! The The brown, brown, fibrous fibrous peat peat had had 

to to be be stirred stirred and and aerated aerated so so it it could could decompose into into black black 

muck. muck. Plants Plants would would spring spring up, up, turn turn yellow yellow and and die. die. Yet Yet 

where where Irish Irish potatoes potatoes had had been been sprayed sprayed with with lime lime and and coppeper 

sulphate sulphate to to prevent prevent blight, blight, a a second second crop crop of of potatoes, potatoes, 

cop 

or or nearly nearly anything anything else, else, would would grow grow fairly fairly well. well. So So that's that's 

how how we we learned learned that that copper copper in in this this soil soil was was essential essential and and 

we we had had to to use use commercial fertilizer, fertilizer, too. too. The The land land companiepanies 

had had insisted insisted that that this this would would not not be be necessary, since since 

com- 

analysis analysis showed showed there there was was an an excess excess of of nitrogen. nitrogen. That That 

sounded sounded fine, fine, but but what what they they didn't didn't know know was was that that this this 

nitrogen nitrogen was was in in a a form form not not available available to to plants. plants. Oh Oh boy, boy, 

there there was was a a heap heap to to learn! learn! 

Yet Yet in in spite spite of of all, all, there there were were some some vegetables raised. raised. 

'l'he 'l'he Ft. Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel Sentinel of of June June 19, 19, 1914 1914 states states that that 

J. J. W. W. Bissell Bissell of of Glade Glade Crest Crest had had sold sold some some Irish Irish potatoes potatoes 

for for $1 $1 and and $1.25 $1.25 a a hamper, hamper, and and they they had had yielded yielded at at the the 

r r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper 

te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper 

didn't didn't state state how how many many hampers hampers or or how how many many acres acres Mr. Mr. 

Bissell Bissell had, had, whether whether it it was was one one acre acre or or more more or or less. less. It It 

wouldn't wouldn't surprise surprise me me if if it it was was less. less. In In Okeelanta the the five five 

of of us, us, for for our our whole whole winter's winter's labor, labor, had had succeeded in in raisining 

and and selling selling only only 40 40 hampers hampers of of potatoes, potatoes, ten ten hampers hampers 

rais 

of of beans beans and and a a few few batches batches of of carrots carrots and and turnips. turnips. Our Our 

potatoes potatoes brought brought $1.50 $1.50 and and $1.75. $1.75. 

"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the 

first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The 

boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed 

up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last 

time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come. 

The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than 

five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight 

perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees 

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to 

bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach 

these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course 

has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes, 

axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is 

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached, 

sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending 

across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which 

reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of 

miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but 

has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our 

compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage, 

our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the 

state which has never been done before by any white man, 

bury the as 

bury 

Hendry, Hendry, 

the the 

LaBelle LaBelle 

cattle cattle 

king-five king-five 

white white 

men men 

as 

as 

well as five and as well 

as as 

five five 

negroes, negroes, 

"stalwart, "stalwart, 

strong strong 

and and 

black black 

as as 

crows". 

crows". 

Their of two and Their 

fleet fleet 

consisted consisted 

of of 

two two 

large large 

and and 

three three 

small small 

canoes 

canoes 

and and two for Ft. and 

two two 

bateaus bateaus 

for for 

provisions. provisions. 

Leaving Leaving 

from from 

Ft. Ft. 

Myers 

Myers 

they on the on 4, For they 

arrived arrived 

on on 

the the 

lake lake 

on on 

November November 

4, 4, 

1883. 1883. 

For For 

several 

several 

days and days they 

they 

battled 

battled 

stormy 

stormy 

winds 

winds 

and 

and 

high 

high 

waves 

waves 

which 

which 

soaked and and soaked 

them 

them 

continually 

continually 

and 

and 

ruined 

ruined 

their 

their 

meal 

meal 

and 

and 

grits 

grits 

and and of the To the and 

some 

some 

of 

of 

the 

the 

coffee. 

coffee. 

To 

To 

escape 

escape 

the 

the 

storm 

storm 

they 

they 

took 

took 

refuge in a of refuge 

in 

in 

a sheltered 

a sheltered 

cove 

cove 

back 

back 

of 

of 

Clewiston's 

Clewiston's 

Sand 

Sand 

Point. 

Point. 

This This 

they 

they 

named 

named 

"Kitty 

"Kitty 

Harbor". 

Harbor". 

They 

They 

discovered 

discovered 

several 

several 

large in the and large 

islands 

islands 

in 

in 

the 

the 

lake 

lake 

and 

and 

investigated 

investigated 

eight 

eight 

dead 

dead 

rivers 

rivers 

along the At day along 

the 

the 

shore. 

shore. 

At 

At 

present 

present 

day 

day 

Lake 

Lake 

Harbor 

Harbor 

they 

they 

were 

were 

enthralled by the of one of the of enthralled 

by 

by 

the 

the 

beauty 

beauty 

of 

of 

one 

one 

of 

of 

the 

the 

largest 

largest 

of 

of 

these 

these 

streams. in 

streams. 

This 

This 

they 

they 

christened 

christened 

Rita 

Rita 

River, 

River, 

although although 

in 

in 

later a was the 

later 

years 

years 

when 

when 

a 

a 

post 

post 

office 

office 

was 

was 

established 

established 

here, 

here, 

the 

the 

spelling for was to The spelling 

for 

for 

some 

some 

reason 

reason 

was 

was 

changed 

changed 

to 

to 

Ritta. 

Ritta. 

The 

The 

upper 

upper 

' 

'


part of this stream was dredged out some five years later 

to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

had intended to continue on to Shark River. It now forms 

part of the Miami canal. As this stream was typical of the 

lake's dead rivers, including the Democrat, let's see what 

it was like. 

"The river at its mouth is about 100 yards wide, the 

depth of water being about eight feet. To say that our 

little party was overjoyed would but poorly express it. We 

do not go one hundred yards before we hear exclamations 

from the members of the party in praise of the beautiful 

scenery which greets the eye on every side. There is no 

perceptible current so far as we can discern. The water is 

clear as crystal, the banks fringed with a dense tropical 

growth of trees, presenting to the view a solid green wall, 

impenetrable to the eye. This wall is formed by vines, 

which have twined around the trunks and branches of the 

trees, and have interlaced and wound themselves around 

each other until they form a screen which is almost sufficient 

to shut out the light of day. Looking behind us we 

find that we are followed by innumerable alligators, who 

are swimming lazily along in our wake. From all sides we 

see them plunging in the water, remain under for a few 

seconds, rise after we have passed and join the crowd behind 

us. We do not go two miles before the river begins 

to get narrow, and we find ourselves in a little stream only 

a few yards in width, the sunlight completely shut out by 

the branches of trees and vines, which have interlocked 

and twined around each other until a perfect roof is formed 

... After going half a mile, we find we are no longer in 

a stream, but winding around in dark, sluggish water, the 

roots and branches of the trees forming a barrier to our 

further progress ... As we return we examine more closely 

the vines which grow so luxuriantly, and find that they are 

a species of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from 


When I first came to this lake these gourds still were 

plentiful in the custard apple forest, although they then 

were less luxuriant than the moon vine, a kind of morning 

glory, which completely blanketed the tops and the exposed 

flanks of the custard apple woods, making a shadowy 

dusk at mid day. 

After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party 

arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, at the 

largest and longest of all these rivers. This they christened 

T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this 

stream to its end, they laid a course south by the compass 

for Shark River, ninety miles away by air line. Although 

water had evidently been five feet over the land not too 

long before, they found that it now was a scant five inches, 

and under that was fifteen feet, more or less, of soft mud. 

So now they are compelled to battle the sharp-edged 

sawgrass, which they had believed to be only ten miles in 

extent, but which actually persisted clear to the headwaters 

of Shark River. At times they were able to burn the sawgrass, 

but usually the way must be hacked with machetes. 

For many days they were compelled to push and lift their 

boats every foot of the way, often making only a few hundred 

yards in a day. On November 17th, a week after leaving 

the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still 

visible to the naked eye. 

Constantly they were plagued by innumerable snakes, 

though fortunately, nobody was bitten. But they were 

tortured by mosquitoes, leeches and poisonous wampee 

plants "which produce a terrible burning sensation. Its 

appearance is similar to the water lily, the leaf being from 

six to twelve inches across, the root running to a depth 

of six inches, and resembles a shallot in appearance. We 

had the curiosity to taste it. We shall do so no more!" 







it was like. 






























them, perfectly round, and about the size of a billiard ball. 

The vines run all over the trees, and on the ground form 

a mat two or three feet deep." 



































Yes, I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee 

was a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it twice! 

Indian turnip it's called up north. It's tuber looks like a 







it was like. 






































































31 

stating that 

than a vast 

for all time 

ld see them 

.from Lake 

the Everiami 

Canal 

t River was 

expedition 

enough, he 

iver's fork. 

hey weren't 

s, "ere the 

astir." The 

were rowed 

for the last 

les to come. 

more than 

ith a slight 

of the trees 

network to 

e approach 

ater course 

e machetes, 

journey is 


rees which 

a couple of 

exists, but 

pples. Our 

ur voyage, 

tion of the 

white man, 







it was like. 







































































big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred 


I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking 

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer 

showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a 






strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got 

unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee 

and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even 

the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up 

sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their 




"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved 

by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking 

of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator 

would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression 


As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat 

deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their 

boats could float and that day they made a mile and a 

half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout 


some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the 



and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they 

then were in Shark River, which they descended to its 

mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. 

Here they boarded the 

schooner which had come to meet them for the return to 

civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had 

taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day 

in Shark River, had been only three miles a day. 






now! 










even noticed. 





























it was like. 












































































it was like. 





































































Indian turnip it's called up north. It's tuber looks like a

30 28 28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

big 30 part and of of delicious this BELLE stream potato, GLADE was but dredged FROM it is SW out hotter AMP some TO than five SUGAR seven years BOWL 

hundred 

to to become firecrackers. a a part of of Although the Thirteen I had Mile seen Canal men taste which wampee, 

Disston 

big had 

later 

and intended 

delicious 

to to continue 

potato, 

on 

but 

on to to 

it is 

Shark 

hotter River. 

than 

It It 

seven now forms 

hun 

I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cookdred 

part of 

firecrackers. 

of the Miami 

Although canal. As 

I this 

had stream 

seen men was 

taste typical 

wampee, 

ing one in several waters until the lavender liquid no of longer 

showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In what 

a 

ing it it was one like. 

in several waters until the lavender liquid no long 



and the "The sensation river at at lasted 

of the 

I lake's decided dead to be 

rivers, smart including and boil the 

the Democrat, 

poison out. let's 

After see 

cook 

its its mouth until is next 

is about day. 100 Scientists yards say 

wide, that 

few the 

wampee seconds depth of of juice my water contains mouth felt being microscopic like a thousand 

about eight balls 

feet. which burning needles, 

To say expel that innumerable 

and the sensation little party tiny was needles lasted until 

our 

overjoyed with next would great day. but force. Scientists poorly Great say express grief, that 

it. We 

I 

wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel in 

know do do not that's 

go go one so, hundred and those yards needles before are we red hear hot to 

exclamations 

boot! Yet 

numerable tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I 

strangely from the enough, 

members wild of of hogs 

the party used 

in in to praise love the of of root, the beautiful 

and got 

unbelievably know that's so, scenery which fat and on 

greets it. those A the sawgrass needles are eye on on hog red every would hot side. eat to There a boot! wampee Yet 

strangely is is no no 

and perceptible squeal enough, in 

current pain, wild so but hogs 

so far then used as as he'd to 

we can root love discern. up the another. root, and The water Even got 

unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee is is 

the clear jackdaws as as crystal, which the used banks to fringed follow us 

with as a we 

a dense grubbed tropical 

up 


sawgrass growth of of roots, trees, would presenting peck on to to a 

the wampee, view a a then solid gape 

green their 

the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed wall, 

up 

bills impenetrable toward the to to sky the while eye. their 

This tongues 

wall is is cooled 

formed off. 

sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape by by their vines, 

bills which As toward the 

have party the twined sky penetrated around while their the trunks tongues Everglades and cooled branches they off. 

seemed 

of of the 

also trees, to and have have been interlaced oppressed and by the 

wound uncanny themselves silence. 


around 

each "All other around until us they reigns form a a death-like a screen which stillness is is unrelieved 


almost suf 

by ficient any sound to to shut of out animal the life light of of of any day. description. Looking behind The croaking 

find of that a frog, we the are hoot followed of an by by owl, innumerable or the bellow alligators, of an alli 

who 

us us we 


by gator any are swimming would sound be of a animal 

lazily relief." life along This of 

in in caused any description. 

our wake. a "feeling The From all all of sides depression 

of see we a 

croak 

we 

ing them cannot frog, the plunging avoid." hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator 

would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depres 

seconds, rise after we have passed and join the crowd be 

in in the water, remain under for a a few 

sion As 

we they 

cannot progressed, 

avoid." 

the water in places became somewhahind 

deeper. us. We On do do the not go 21st go two they miles found before ponds the in which river begins 

their 

to to As get they narrow, progressed, and we find the water ourselves in in places in a a little became stream some 

boats could float and that day they made a mile and only 

a 

what a a few deeper. yards in On in width, the 21st the they sunlight found completely ponds in which shut out their 

half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredbabout 


by 

boats the branches could float of of and trees that day vines, they which made have a mile interlocked 

a 

half. and On twined the around 24th the each first other dry until ground a a perfect was discovered 

some five acres in extent. However on December roof 3rd ed ed ... five After feet going square, half and a a mile, on the we 28th find we their are first no no longer island, 

islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper in in 

form 

the 

about some a a stream, five acres but winding in extent. around However in in dark, on December sluggish water, 3rd the 


the 

islands roots and were branches more numerous of of trees and the forming water a a courses barrier deeper 

on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for to to they 

our 

and further more progress plentiful. ... On As that we return day they we made examine fifteen more miles, 

then were in Shark River, which they descended to closely 

its 

and mouth the on 

vines at December the which Gulf grow 

6th of so 

they 

so Mexico. 

luxuriantly, 

travelled Here and 

thirty-five, find that 

for they 

they 

they boarded are 

then a a species were of of in gourd, Shark with River, innumerable which they gourds descended hanging to from its 


mouth them, perfectly 

the Gulf round, 

of and 

Mexico. 

about Here civilization. The entire trip from the Lake size 

they 

of Okeechobee of a a 

boarded billiard had the 

ball. 

schooner taken The vines 27 which days run and all 

had 

all their over 

come average the 

to trees, 

meet speed, them 

and on on except for the 

the for ground 

return the form 

day to 

civilization. in a a Shark mat two River, or 

The 

or three had entire been feet 

trip deep." only from three Lake miles Okeechobee a day. 

had 




30 29 29 BE B 

DEMOCRAT Major When Williams RIVER 

I I first came concludes 

to to this his lake report these by 

gourds stating still that 

were 

part 31 big of and this delic s 

the plentiful Everglades in in the "are custard nothing apple more forest, nor although less than they a vast 

to 

then 

dred become firecrac a p 


and were useless less luxuriant marsh, and than such the they moon will vine, remain a a kind for of of all morning 

time had I decided intended to 


to glory, come in 

which my estimation." 

completely blanketed Good golly, the he should 

tops and see the them part ing exposed 

flanks of of the custard apple woods, making a a shadowy 

one of the in se M 


now! 

lake's er showed, dead ri I 


dusk at at mid day. 

it few was seconds like. m 

now! 


and the sens 

Okeechobee After cruising southward the through 

south shore the for. length nine of 

days the the Ever 

party 

"The river 

And so that was the wampee juic 

glades, arrived, yes, near and the the southernmost last first one too, trip point until ever on on the made the Miami .from lake, Canal Lake 

at depth 

at the 

of wat 


yes, and the last one too, rivers. until the This Miami they christen 

Canal know that's 

numerable t 

was largest surveyed and longest some thirty of of all all years 

these later. 

little party wa 

do not go one 

was ed ed But surveyed T-D, let's or or take Times-Democrat some a closer thirty look years at River. what later. 

Democrat After traversing River was 

this strangely eno 

from the mem 

like stream in those to to its its primeval end, they days. laid a The a course scribe south of this by by expedition the compass unbelievably 

for But Shark let's take River, a closer ninety look miles at what away by Democrat by air line. River Although 

was scenery which 

gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he and squeal i 

perceptible cu 

never like water in mentions those had evidently primeval those ancient days. been five The mounds feet scribe over at of the the this land expedition 

river's not fork. 

the too jackdaws 

gives long us before, a detailed they found account, that it though it now was curiously a a scant enough, five inches, 

clear as cryst 

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't sawgrass roo 

never and under mentions that those was fifteen ancient feet, mounds more at or or the of growth of tre 

even noticed. 

less, river's of soft fork. 

mud. bills toward 

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't impenetrable 

So So now they are compelled to to battle the sharp-edged which As have the tw p 

even "On noticed. 

the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the 

first sawgrass, streaks which of dawn, they every had believed man in to camp to be be was only astir." ten miles The trees, also in in to and have ha 

extent, 

"On the 

but 10th 

which 

day actually 

of November," persisted clear 

he 

to 

relates, 

to the headwaters 

"ere the 

boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed each "All other arou un 

first up of of Shark 

streaks River. 

of dawn, 

At At times 

every they 

man were 

in camp able to 

was 

to burn 

astir." The 

the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last sawgrass, 

ficient by any to sound shu 

boats were but 

loaded usually 

and the 

for way 

a few must 

hundred 

be be hacked 

yards with 

were machetes. 

rowed 

time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come. find ing of that a frog we 

up For 

the many 

stream. days 

Then they 

the were 

oars compelled 

were stowed 

to to push 

away and 

for the 

lift last 

The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than their are gator swimming would 

time boats 

"for every 

poles foot 

will 

of of 

have the to 

way, 

be used 

often 

for making 

many only 

miles 

a a 

to few 

come. 


hundred 

see sion them we cann plun 

The river yards 

has 

in in 

narrowed 

a a day. On 

down November 

to a stream 

17th, a a not 

week 

more after 

than 


leaving 

seconds, As they rise p 

five or the 

six lake, 

feet 

a a 

in tall 

depth, cypress 

dark, 

at at 

sluggish Democrat 

and River 

with a 

was 

slight 

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to hind still what us. deeper. We 

perceptible visible to to current 

the naked 

running eye. 

north. The boughs of the bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach trees to boats get narrow could 

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course to a half. few On yards the i 

bar our Constantly progress, they and to were all appearances plagued by by innumerable when we approach 

snakes, 

has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes, the about branches five fe 

these though barriers fortunately, it seems nobody as if the was end bitten. of the But water they course 

were 

axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our and some twined five ac ar 

has tortured been reached, by by mosquitoes, but with a leeches few strokes and poisonous journey is 

of the machetes, 

wampee 

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction ed islands ... After were g 

axes plants and "which hatchets produce our way a a is terrible cleared, burning and our sensation. is reach 

journey is Its 

ed, sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending a and stream, more but ple 

resumed appearance for a is is few similar yards to to until the water next lily, obstruction the leaf being is reach 

from 

across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which roots and on and Dece bra 

ed, six sometimes to to twelve a inches sunken across, log, the the roots of running trees to extending to a a depth 

reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of further then were progr in 

across of of six the inches, whole and channel, resembles or the a a shallot branches in in of appearance. trees which 

We 

miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but the mouth vines at whi th 

reach had the surface curiosity of to to the taste water. it. We We shall have do do gone so so no no a couple more!" 

has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard of 

apples. Our a schooner species of whi g 

miles Yes, 

when 

I I 

we know 

discover blamed 

that well 

the river 

they no 

didn't! 

longer That 

exists, wampee 

but 

compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage, them, civilization. perfect 

has was 

lost 

a a itself 

hellish 

in plant, 

the dense nobody 

swamp would 

of custard our only guide. We are now penetrating ever a taste 

apples. 

it it twice! 

Our 

portion of the The taken vines 27 day run 

compass state Indian which is 

turnip 

now, has never it's 

and called 

will been up 

be 

up done until north. before the It's 

end by tuber any of our white looks 

voyage, 

man, 

like a in a mat a Shark two Riv or 


state which has never been done before by any white man,

24 BELLE 

24 BELLE 

GLADE 

GLADE 

FROM 

FROM 

SW 

SW 

AMP 

AMP 

TO 

TO 

SUGAR 

SUGAR 

BOWL 

BOWL 



and never even by Indians . . . The axes and machete are 

kept busy until 2 o'clock cutting trees and slashing vines. 

The trees become thinner, and about 3 o'clock we find our 

course has brought us to the borders of a marsh of yma 

grass, wampu or warmpea, and mixed with willow scrub. 

Ahead "there extends before us one vast marsh, in which 

even with a field glass we see no sign of water or trees 

of any description." 

As to this "marsh of yma grass" the Lord only knows 

what that was. Grass experts in our experiment station, 

and in Louisiana too, can't find it mentioned in their reference 

books. Maybe it was maiden cane, that grass with 

macaroni-like roots, for a sketch which I made in 1914 

shows that then maiden cane was growing thickly near 

here amidst the sawgrass. 

Old Democrat River has now vanished without a trace, 

but it was a famous stream in the early days. Although it 

meandered and vanished into the sawgrass, yet its channel 

seems to have connected with Brooker's Lakes near Shawano, 

and from there became part of the Gulf Stream of 

the Everglades, that water highway used by Seminoles 

and hunters, which flowed southward probably as far as 

Miami. With the help of aerial maps and the recollections 

of early settlers, I've tried to show on this book's map, 

its windings through Belle Glade. 

CHAPTER FOUR 

CHAPTER 

CHAPTER 

THREE 

THREE 

CHAPTER THREE 



Glade Crest 

Drainage and Land Clearing 

From 

From 

the 

the 

time 

time 

the 

the 

Chosen 

Chosen 

mounds 

mounds 

were 

were 

abandoned 

abandoned 

by 

by 

the 

the From Calusas 

Calusas the (or 

(or time what 

what the Chosen ever 

ever 

tribe 

tribe mounds they 

they were might 

might abandoned have 

have 

been) 

been) by 

right 

right the Calusas on 

on 

down 

down (or till 

till what the 

the 

days 

days ever of 

of tribe the 

the they Seminole 

Seminole might War, 

War, have a been) good 

good 

300 

300 right years, 

years, on down we 

we 

don't 

don't till the know 

know days a of thing 

thing the Seminole of 

of 

what 

what War, might 

might a have 

have good 

transpired 

transpired 300 years, in 

in we this 

this don't Belle 

Belle know Glade-Chosen 

Glade-Chosen a thing of area. 

area. what During 

During might those 

those have 

primeval 

primeval transpired days 

days in the 

the this only 

only Belle distinguishing 

distinguishing Glade-Chosen f ea 

ea area. tu 

tu 

res 

res During of 

of 

this 

this those location 

location 

primeval were 

were days those 

those the same 

same only Indian 

Indian distinguishing mounds, 

mounds, f and 

and ea tu the res the of largest 

largest this location 

were of 

and 

and 

longest 

longest of 

the 

the those lake's 

lake's same "dead 

"dead Indian rivers", 

rivers", mounds, old 

old 

Democrat. 

Democrat. and the The 

The largest earliest 

earliest and 

mention 

mention longest of of 

of the Democrat 

Democrat lake's "dead River 

River rivers", was 

was old recorded 

recorded Democrat. by 

by 

Lieutenant 

The Lieutenant earliest 

Henry 

Henry mention H. 

H. of Benson 

Benson Democrat of 

of 

the 

the River 2nd 

2nd was Artillery, 

Artillery, recorded who 

who by in 

in Lieutenant 

1855 

1855 

had 

had 

cruised 

cruised Henry down H. down Benson the 

the 

Kissimmee 

Kissimmee of the 2nd River 

River Artillery, and 

and 

along 

along who the 

the in Lake's 

Lake's 1855 east 

east had 

shore. 

shore. cruised Of 

Of down Democrat 

Democrat the Kissimmee he 

he 

says, 

says, River and along the Lake's east 


"At 

"At 

the 

the 

extreme 

extreme 

southern 

southern 

shore 

shore 

(we) 

(we) 

entered 

entered 

a large 

large 

outlet 

outlet 

80 

80 

yards 

yards "At the wide 

wide extreme at 

at the southern entrance 

entrance shore and 

and (we) six 

six entered feet 

feet a deep. 

deep. large After outlet After 

proceeding 

proceeding 80 yards wide down 

down at this 

this the outlet 

outlet entrance half 

half and a mile, 

mile, six creek 

creek feet forked, deep. forked, After one 

one 

prong 

prong proceeding to 

to 

the 

the down southwest 

southwest this outlet and 

and 

the 

the half other 

other a to mile, to 

the 

the creek southeast. 

southeast. forked, This 

This one is 

is 

the 

the prong largest 

largest to the outlet 

outlet southwest on 

on 

the 

the 

southern 

southern and other shore." 

shore." to the southeast. This is 

the 

Next 

largest outlet on the southern shore." 

Next 

to 

to 

visit 

visit 

and 

and 

describe 

describe 

this 

this 

river 

river 

and 

and 

the 

the 

man 

man 

who 

who 

gave 

gave Next it 

it 

a name, 

name, to visit was 

was and Major 

Major describe Archie 

Archie this P. 

P. river WiUiams 

WiUiams and the in 

in 

1883, 

1883, man and who and 

here's 

here's gave it how 

how a name, that 

that was came 

came Major about. 

about. Archie A grand 

grand P. WiUiams effort 

effort in was 

was 1883, being 

being and 

made 

made here's by 

by how Hamilton 

Hamilton that came Disston, 

Disston, about. a saw 

saw A maker 

maker grand from 

from effort Philadelphia, 

Philadelphia, 

was being 


Like I've been a-telling you folks, Belle Glade is now 

the biggest town in the whole blamed Everglades and since 

it's on the Hillsboro Canal, I reckon you'd natu;ally think 

that it was the first settlement there as well. (Of course, 

you understand that at one time everybody lived beside 

a canal, that is, if they didn't live on the lake shore itself.) 

Well, more'n likely you never heard tell of this first settlement, 

but it had already reached its wobbly peak while 

Belle Glade and Chosen were getting started. Glade Crest 

was this settlement's name. It was only a mile and a half 

below Six Mile Bend, in the pure old sawgrass Everglades. 

The first settler here, a Canadian named Slade had 

arrived in November 1913, and in December he was jined jined 

by another Canadian, J. W. Bissell. By January there were 

twenty people living here. 

Not only was this the first settlement on the canal it came 

mighty blamed close to being the first in all the swgrass swgrass 

Everglades. It had been only a month before Slade arrived 

that the first settlement, not on the lake shore, was started, 

and that had been at Okeelanta, four miles from the lake 

on the North New River Canal. In October, five men, and 

25 

25 

25 

33

26 26 

BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL BOWL 


to to develop develop the the interior interior of of Florida. Florida. He He had had bought bought one one milliolion 

acres acres of of land land reaching from from Orlando Orlando to to 25 25 miles miles south south 

mil 

of of Lake Lake Okeechobee. Already Already he he had had connected Lake Lake Okeechobechobee 

via via the the Kissimmee River River and and some some intervening 

Okee 

lakes, lakes, with with his his headquarters in in the the cow cow camp camp of of Kissimmeemee. 

In In addition, he he had had also also connected the the big big lake lake with with 

Kissim 

the the Caloosahatchee River River and and the the Gulf Gulf of of Mexico. Mexico. Since Since 

many many of of Disston's principal men men had had come come from from Louisiana, 

the the New New Orleans Orleans Times-Democrat paper paper became became interested 

in in the the possibilities for for development of of this this newly newly opened opened 

part part of of Florida. Florida. In In 1882 1882 this this newspaper had had sent sent Major Major 

Williams on on an an exploring expedition from from Kissimmee down down 

the the river river to to Lake Lake Okeechobee and and on on through through the the hatchee hatchee to to the the Gulf, Gulf, the the first first boat boat ever ever to to make make this this trip. trip. 

Caloosa 

The The following year year the the Times-Democrat organized a large a large 

expedition to to explore explore the the lake's lake's southern shore, shore, and and then then 

to to strike strike south south through through the the heart heart of of the the Everglades to to 

Shark Shark River River on on the the Gulf. Gulf. 











Now Now this this was was a bold a bold adventure into into unknown and and forbiddinbidding 

territory, to to be be sure. sure. Although such such explorations 

for 

had had been been attempted during during the the Indian Indian war, war, none none had had penetratetrated 

far. far. As As surveyor George George Mackay Mackay testified before before a a 

committee of of pene 

congress. 

"Very "Very little little can can be be known known of of the the North North Glades. Glades. They They 

are are uniformly saw-grass, and and it it is is impossible to to penetrate 

them them with with canoes· canoes· in in high high water, water, and and in in low low water water they they are are 

so so generally boggy boggy that that is is impossible to to explore explore them them 

on on foot." foot." 









The The Times-Democrat expedition was was to to investigate the the 

Everglades, to to check check on on the the possibility of of draining it, it, to to see see 

what what crops crops its its soil soil might might produce, to to ascertain the the conditiotion 

and and manner manner of of life life of of the the Indians, Indians, and and at at the the request request 

condi 

of of the the Western Union Union company, to to report report on on the the practicabilitcability 

of of constructing a a telegraph line line through through the the Glades. 

practi 

Glades. 







The The party, party, besides besides Major Major Williams, consisted of of a civil a civil 

engineer, an an artist, artist, a a mechanic and and Captain Captain Francis Francis As- As- 

DRAINAGE AND LAND CLEARING 

DEMOCRAT RIVER RIVER 















"Rim "Rim Canal" Canal" bordering bordering Herbert Herbert Hoover Hoover Dike. Dike. Torry Torry Island Island at at left, left, 

with with Belle Belle Glade Glade Marina. Marina. Fishing Fishing camps camps and and bridge bridge at at center. center. 

Golf Golf course course at at right, right, bordering bordering Hillsboro Hillsboro Canal, Canal, with with North North 

New New River River Canal Canal branching branching off. off. Hurricane Hurricane gate gate and and 

pumping pumping station station at canal canal entrance. entrance. All All of of the the land land 

shown shown to to right right of of Rim Rim Canal Canal was was lake lake bottom. bottom. 










27 27 

bury bury Hendry, Hendry, the the LaBelle LaBelle cattle cattle king-five white white men men as as 

well well as as five five negroes, negroes, "stalwart, strong strong and and black black as as crows". crows". 

Their Their fleet fleet consisted of of two two large large and and three three small small canoes canoes 

and and two two bateaus bateaus for for provisions. Leaving Leaving from from Ft. Ft. Myers Myers 

they they arrived arrived on on the the lake lake on on November 4, 4, 1883. 1883. For For several several 

days days they they battled battled stormy stormy winds winds and and high high waves waves which which 

soaked soaked them them continually and and ruined ruined their their meal meal and and grits grits 

and and some some of of the the coffee. coffee. To To escape escape the the storm storm they they took took 

refuge refuge in in a a sheltered cove cove back back of of Clewiston's Sand Sand Point. Point. 

This This they they named named "Kitty "Kitty Harbor". They They discovered several several 

large large islands islands in in the the lake lake and and investigated eight eight dead dead rivers rivers 

along along the the shore. shore. At At present present day day Lake Lake Harbor Harbor they they were were 

enthralled by by the the beauty beauty of of one one of of the the largest largest of of these these 

streams. This This they they christened Rita Rita River, River, although in in 

later later years years when when a a post post office office was was established here, here, the the 

spelling spelling for for some some reason reason was was changed to to Ritta. Ritta. The The upper upper


36 




Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six 


miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal 

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks 






over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield. 

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the 



railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring 




of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts 



camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who 



ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having 



36 


part of of this this stream was was dredged out out some five five years later 

to to become a a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

had had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now forms 

part of of the the Miami canal. As As this this stream was was typical of of the the 

lake's dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's see see what 

it it was was like. 

"The river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, the the 

depth of of water being about eight feet. To To say say that our our 

little party was was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We 

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear exclamations 

from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful 

scenery which greets the the eye eye on on every side. There is is no no 

perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The The water is is 

clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with a a dense tropical 

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view a a solid green wall, 

impenetrable to to the the eye. This wall is is formed by by vines, 

which have twined around the the trunks and and branches of of the the 

trees, and and have interlaced and and wound themselves around 

each other until they form a a screen which is is almost sufficient 

to to shut out out the the light of of day. Looking behind us us we we 

suf 

find that we we are are followed by by innumerable alligators, who 

are are swimming lazily along in in our our wake. From all all sides we we 

see see them plunging in in the the water, remain under for for a a few few 

seconds, rise rise after we we have passed and and join join the the crowd behind 

us. us. We We do do not not go go two two miles before the the river begins 

to to get get narrow, and and we we find ourselves in in a a little stream only 

a a few few yards in in width, the the sunlight completely shut out out by by 

be 

the the branches of of trees and and vines, which have interlocked 

and and twined around each other until a a perfect roof is is formed 

... ... After going half half a a mile, we we find we we are are no no longer in in 

ed 

a a stream, but but winding around in in dark, sluggish water, the the 

roots and and branches of of the the trees forming a a barrier to to our our 

further progress ... ... As As we we return we we examine more closely 

the the vines which grow so so luxuriantly, and and find that they are are 

a a species of of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from 

them, perfectly round, and and about the the size size of of a a billiard ball. 

The The vines run run all all over the the trees, and and on on the the ground form 

a a mat mat two two or or three feet feet deep." 

their troubles. 





Glade Crest was in the pure old peat of the sawgrass 

Everglades, new and raw. I know exactly what they had 

to contend with, for I was having the same problems at 

the very same time in Okeelanta. Water no longer covered 

the land, but it wasn't far below the surface, and clearing 

that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which 

we had could do it. 

The land salesmen had told us all, "Just mow off the 

sawgrass, then plow the ground with a hand push plow." 

Mrs. Daniel has said that they even had told her. "A family 

of four could make a living on a single acre, since four 

crops could be grown each year". Oh yes, they even said, 

and backed it up with government reports, "Frost has 

never been known to damage the tenderest vegetation." 

And gee whiz, they even claimed there were no mosquitoes, 

either! 

That first winter, according to Herman Herndon, there 

were fifteen frosts and freezes from December till April 

5th. Farmers tried to protect their little crops by burning 

piles of sawgrass, but the heat mostly went straight up, 

so some plants were scorched while the majority simply 

froze. Anyway, by the second night, there were no more 

sawgrass piles. Then they tried covering the plants with 

muck. This worked fine once or twice and with small plants, 

but the covering and uncovering was near about as damaging 

as the frost. 

Since the first tractors couldn't clear the sawgrass, all 

this had to be done by hand. Sawgrass first was chopped 












of Glade four Crest could was make in a the living pure on old a single peat of acre, the since sawgrass four 

crops Everglades, could be new grown and raw. each I year". know Oh exactly yes, they what even they said, had 

and to contend backed with, up for with I was government having the reports, same problems "Frost has at 

never the very been same known time to in Okeelanta. damage the Water tenderest no longer vegetation." covered 

And the land, gee whiz, but it they wasn't even far claimed below there surface, were no and mosquitoes, clearing 

either! that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which 

we That had could first winter, do it. according to Herman Herndon, there 

were The fifteen land salesmen frosts and had freezes told us from all, December "Just mow till off April the 

5th. sawgrass, Farmers then tried plow to the protect ground their with little a hand crops push by burning plow." 

piles Mrs. Daniel of sawgrass, has said but that the they heat even mostly had went told her. straight "A family 

some of four plants could were make scorched a living on while a single the majority acre, since simply four 

up, 

so 

froze. crops could Anyway, be grown by the each second year". night, Oh there yes, they were even no more said, 

sawgrass and backed piles. it up Then with they government tried covering reports, the plants "Frost with has 

muck. never This been worked known fine to damage once or twice the tenderest and with small vegetation." plants, 

but And the gee covering whiz, they and even uncovering claimed there was near were about no mosquitoes, as damaging 

either! as the frost. 

Since That first the first winter, tractors according couldn't to Herman clear the Herndon, sawgrass, there all 

this were had fifteen to be frosts done and by hand. freezes Sawgrass from December first was till chopped April 






















either! 










as the frost. 

































DEMOCRAT DRAINAGE AND RIVER LAND CLEARING 

29 29 



down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to 


When I I first came to to this this lake these gourds still still were 

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they then 

were less less luxuriant than the the moon vine, a a kind of of morning 

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops and and the the exposed 

flanks of of the the custard apple woods, making a a shadowy 

dusk at at mid mid day. 

ex 


get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's 



hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough, 



rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato 



rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been 



grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a 



push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long 



After cruising the the south shore for. for. nine days the the party 

arrived, near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, at at the the 

largest and and longest of of all all these rivers. This they christened 

T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this this 

ed 

stream to to its its end, end, they laid laid a a course south by by the the compass 

for for Shark River, ninety miles away by by air air line. Although 

water had had evidently been five five feet feet over the the land not not too too 

long before, they found that it it now was was a a scant five five inches, 

and and under that was was fifteen feet, more or or less, less, of of soft soft mud. 

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch 



of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth 




of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about 




a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's 



' 

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing 

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had 

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black 

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet 

where Irish potatoes had been sprayed with lime and copper 

sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes, 

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's 

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and 

we had to use commercial fertilizer, too. The land companies 

how it had all was insisted done. 

' 

that this would not be necessary, since 

analysis Worst showed of all, there we learned was an that excess on sawgrass of nitrogen. land nothing That 

sounded would grow fine, but but sawgrass what they ! The didn't brown, know fibrous was that peat this had 

nitrogen to be stirred was and in a aerated form not so it available could decompose to plants. into Oh black boy, 

there muck. was Plants a heap would to learn! spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet 

where Yet Irish in spite potatoes of all, had there been were sprayed some with vegetables lime and raised. copper 

Ft. sulphate Lauderdale to prevent Sentinel blight, of June a second 19, 1914 crop of states potatoes, that 

'l'he 

J. or W. nearly Bissell anything of Glade else, Crest would had grow sold fairly some Irish well. So potatoes that's 

for how $1 we and learned $1.25 that a hamper, copper in and this they soil had was yielded essential at the and 

rwe te had of 150 to use bushels commercial per acre. fertilizer, Now, to too. be sure, The the land paper companies 

state had insisted how many that hampers this would or not how be many necessary, acres since Mr. 

didn't 

Bissell analysis had, showed whether there it was was an one excess acre or of more nitrogen. or less. That It 

wouldn't sounded surprise fine, but me what if it they was didn't less. In know Okeelanta was that the five 

this 

of nitrogen us, for was our whole in a form winter's not labor, available had to succeeded plants. in Oh raising 

there and was selling a heap only to 40 learn! hampers of potatoes, ten hampers 

boy, 

of beans Yet in and spite a few of all, batches there of were carrots some and vegetables turnips. raised. Our 

potatoes 'l'he Ft. brought Lauderdale $1.50 Sentinel and $1.75. of June 19, 1914 states that 

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes 

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the 

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper 

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr. 

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. It 




' 










had insisted that this would not be necessary, since 

analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That 

sounded fine, but what they didn't know was that this 

nitrogen was in a form not available to plants. Oh boy, 

there was a heap to learn! 

Yet in spite of all, there were some vegetables raised. 

'l'he Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel of June 19, 1914 states that 






wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five 

of us, for our whole winter's labor, had succeeded in raising 

and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers 

of beans and a few batches of carrots and turnips. Our 

potatoes brought $1.50 and $1.75. 


' 




















So So now they are are compelled to to battle the the sharp-edged 

sawgrass, which they had had believed to to be be only ten ten miles in in 

extent, but but which actually persisted clear to to the the headwaters 

of of Shark River. At At times they were able able to to burn the the sawgrass, 

but but usually the the way must be be hacked with machetes. 

For For many days they were compelled to to push and and lift lift their 

boats every foot foot of of the the way, often making only a a few few hundred 

yards in in a a day. On On November 17th, a a week after leaving 

the the lake, a a tall tall cypress at at Democrat River was was still still 

ing 

visible to to the the naked eye. 

















Constantly they were plagued by by innumerable snakes, 

though fortunately, nobody was was bitten. But But they were 

tortured by by mosquitoes, leeches and and poisonous wampee 

plants "which produce a a terrible burning sensation. Its Its 

appearance is is similar to to the the water lily, lily, the the leaf leaf being from 

six six to to twelve inches across, the the root running to to a a depth 

of of six six inches, and and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We 

had had the the curiosity to to taste it. it. We We shall do do so so no no more!" 

Yes, I I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee 

was was a a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it it twice! 

Indian turnip it's it's called up up north. It's It's tuber looks like like a a 

' 

' 

' 

'

CHAPTER SIX 

that the first settlement, not on the lake sh 

and that had been at Okeelanta, four mil 

on the North New River Canal. In Octob 

THE CHOSEN PLACE 33 

51 

51 

CHAPTER FOUR 

SIX 

The Chosen Place 

The Glade Chosen Crest 

Place 

I can't tell you about Belle Glade without including 

Home of J. R. Leatherman at Chosen, 1927. 

Chosen. In one manner of speaking, Chosen is now a part 

of THE Belle CHOSEN Glade, yet PLACE in another way it's not. While the first 51 

until he was appointed to tend the locks. Here he cleared 

people were settling in the Belle Glade area, another 

elders from lake bottom and the bed of Democrat River 

colony was starting nearer to the lake. Unlike Belle Glade, 

where they had sprung up after the lake went down. Th 

Chosen Like had an active promoter, and for a while it even 

head high elders were pulled by hand and burned 

1 

I can't I've tell been you a-telling about you Belle folks, Glade Belle without Glade including is now 

then not 

Home of J. J. R. R. Leatherman at at Chosen, 1927. 

the seemed Chosen. biggest that In town one Chosen manner in the might whole of be speaking, blamed the leading Everglades Chosen town. is now Believe and a since 

part me 

bothering to plow, he disced the land, using a Ford car 

it's brother, jealousy was keen. Yet now, Belle Glade is a 

with tractor attachment until he bought a Fordson tractor 

of on Belle the Glade, Hillsboro yet in Canal, another I reckon way it's you'd not. natu;ally While the think first 

until he was appointed to tend the locks. Here he cleared 

that fair people it sized was were city, the settling while first settlement Chosen in the still Belle there is not as Glade incorporated. well. area, (Of course, 

another Those 

with elders an from Oliver lake No. bottom 3 plow. and He the was bed one of of Democrat the first River men 

you folks colony understand sure was as starting heck that don't nearer at one want to time the to be everybody lake. city Unlike slickers. lived Belle beside 

Glade, 

on where the they lake to had own sprung a Caterpillar, up after the which lake marked went down. 

him as 

Th Th Th Th 

a 

a Chosen canal, 

While 

that had the 

is, an people 

if active they 

down 

didn't promoter, the 

live 

canal 

on and the 

were for lake doing a shore while about 

itself.) 

it even 

capitalist 

and 

head high for elders sure. 

were pulled by hand and burned 1 

1 

then not 

Well, seemed getting 

more'n that organized, 

likely Chosen you 

Hans might never 

Stein, be heard the the leading tell 

original 

of this town. settler 

first Believe settlement, 

lake brother, end but of jealousy it the had canal already was was keen. reached busily Yet tending its now, wobbly to Belle his peak own Glade affairs, while 

is a 

and with daughter tractor attachment Eleese, he until had plenty he bought of help, a Fordson but after tractor the 

at the 

me 

bothering With his to boys plow, Hans he disced (Hamp), the Fritz land, and using Emil a 

Ford (Tony) 

car 

Belle locking fair sized Glade boats city, and through while Chosen Chosen from were still the getting lake is not started. with incorporated. one Glade hand Crest 

Those while 

war with he an was Oliver one No. of the 3 plow. first He to use was negroes one of the on his first farm. 

men 

was he folks this 

cleared sure settlement's as up heck elder don't name. 

land want with 

It was to the be only 

other, city a slickers. mile 

until 

and 

he 

a 

became 

half 

They on the weren't lake to hired own a hands. Caterpillar, They were which sharecroppers, marked him as and 

a 

below one of Six the Mile big Bend, farmers in the on the pure shore. old sawgrass Stein, originally Everglades. 

from 

that capitalist was a for good sure. 

While the people down the canal were doing about and 

deal for both parties. The white farmer 

getting Courland, The first organized, on settler the Baltic Hans here, sea, Stein, a Canadian had the come original named from settler Wisconsin Slade at had 

the to 

furnished With his land, boys mule, Hans seed (Hamp), and equipment Fritz and and Emil then (Tony) took 

arrived Manatee lake end in of where November the canal he was 1913, was trying and busily in to tending raise December celery, to his he until was own Wagner 

jined 

affairs, 

half and daughter of the crop Eleese, - if he any. had plenty Now to of be help, sure, but those after lake 

the 

by persuaded locking another boats Canadian, him through to try J. his W. from luck Bissell. the at share lake By January with cropping one there hand on Kreamer 

he Island. cleared people Moving up Home living elder of his here. J. land R. family Leatherman with 

were 

while 

farmers war he was at first one of didn't the first own to their use land. 

negroes They on his squatted 

farm. 

twenty by the 

wagon at other, Chosen, to until 1927. Lakeport, he became 

then 

where They weren't they pleased, hired hands. clearing They a few were acres sharecroppers, here and there 

and 

by one barge across the lake, farmed on Kreamer in 1916 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying 

Not of only the was big this farmers the first on the settlement shore. Stein, on the originally canal it came 

from 

that was a good deal for both parties. The white farmer 

until he was appointed to tend 

50 

the locks. Here he cleared 

they had not right to rent the land to negroes, but pardnr, 

mighty Courland, blamed on close the Baltic to being sea, the had first come in from all the Wisconsin swgrass to 

furnished land, mule, seed and equipment and then took 

elders from lake bottom and the bed of Democrat River 

Everglades. 

Manatee where 

It had 

he 

been 

was 

only 

trying 

a month 

to raise 

before 

celery, 

Slade 

until 

arrived 

Wagner 

half of the crop - if any. Now to be sure, those lake 

where they had sprung up after the lake went down. Th 

that persuaded the first him settlement, to try his not luck on the at share lake shore, cropping was on started, Kream 

farmers at first didn't own their land. 

They squatted 

head high elders were pulled by hand and burned 1 

then not 

and 

er 

that 

Island. 

had 

Moving 

been at 

his 

Okeelanta, 

family by 

four 

wagon 

miles 

to 

from 

Lakeport, 

the lake 

then 

where they pleased, clearing a few acres here and there 

bothering to plow, he disced the land, using a Ford car 

on by the barge North across New the River lake, Canal. he farmed In October, on Kreamer five men, 

in and 1916 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying 


pardnr, 

they had not right to rent the land to negroes, but pardnr, pardnr, pardnr, 

with an Oliver No. 3 plow. 3350 

He 50 was one of the first men 

on the lake to own a Caterpillar, 

32 

which 

BELLE 

marked 

GLADE 

him 

FROM 

as a 

SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

capitalist for sure. 

and never even by Indians . . . The axes and machete are 

With his boys Hans (Hamp), kept busy Fritz until and 2 Emil o'clock (Tony) cutting trees and slashing vines. 

CHAPTER FOUR


36 

36 

BELLE 

BELLE 

GLADE 

GLADE 

FROM 

FROM 

SW 

SW 

AMP 

AMP 

TO 

TO 

SUGAR 

SUGAR 

BOWL 

BOWL 

Lauderdale, 

Lauderdale, 

yet 

yet 

it 

it 

wasn't 

wasn't 

very 

very 

popular. 

popular. 

The 

The 

locks 

locks 

were 

were 

six 

six 



to 

to 

navigate, 

navigate, 

all 

all 

goods 

goods 

had 

had 

to 

to 

be 

be 

transferred 

transferred 

from 

from 

the 

the 

locks locks 

over 

over 

a 

a 

rutted 

rutted 

sandy 

sandy 

road 

road 

through 

through 

the 

the 

piney 

piney 

woods 

woods 

to 

to 

Deer 

Deer 

field. 

field. 

But 

But 

good 

good 

gosh, 

gosh, 

when 

when 

you 

you 

got 

got 

there, 

there, 

except 

except 

for 

for the 

the 

railroad, 

railroad, 

you 

you 

still 

still 

hadn't 

hadn't 

got 

got 

nowhere! 

nowhere! 

Yet 

Yet 

by 

by 

the 

the 

spring 

spring 

of 

of 

1915 

1915 

there 

there 

already 

already 

were 

were 

some 

some 

72 

72 

starry-eyed 

starry-eyed 

enthusiasts 

enthusiasts 

camped 

camped 

at 

at 

Glade 

Glade 

Crest, 

Crest, 

the 

the 

most 

most 

I 

I 

wouldn't 

wouldn't 

doubt, 

doubt, 

who 

who 

ever 

ever 

lived 

lived 

there 

there 

at 

at 

one 

one 

time. 

time. 

But 

But 

friend, 

friend, 

they 

they 

were 

were 

having 

having 

their 

their 

troubles. 

troubles. 

Glade 

Glade 

Crest 

Crest 

was 

was 

in 

in 

the 

the 

pure 

pure 

old 

old 

peat 

peat 

of 

of 

the 

the 

sawgrass 

sawgrass 

Everglades, 

Everglades, 

new 

new 

and 

and 

raw. 

raw. 

I 

I 

know 

know 

exactly 

exactly 

what 

what 

they 

they 

had 

had 

to 

to 

contend 

contend 

with, 

with, 

for 

for 

I 

I 

was 

was 

having 

having 

the 

the 

same 

same 

problems 

problems 

at 

at 

the 

the 

very 

very 

same 

same 

time 

time 

in 

in 

Okeelanta. 

Okeelanta. 

Water 

Water 

no 

no 

longer 

longer 

covered 

covered 

the 

the 

land, 

land, 

but 

but 

it 

it 

wasn't 

wasn't 

far 

far 

below 

below 

the 

the 

surface, 

surface, 

and 

and 

clearing 

clearing 

that 

that 

sawgrass 

sawgrass 

was 

was 

a 

a 

terrific 

terrific 

task, 

task, 

for 

for 

no 

no 

machines 

machines 

which 

which 

we 

we 

had 

had 

could 

could 

do 

do 

it. 

it. 

The 

The 

land 

land 

salesmen 

salesmen 

had 

had 

told 

told 

us 

us 

all, 

all, 

"Just 

"Just 

mow 

mow 

off 

off 

the 

the 

sawgrass, 

sawgrass, 

then 

then 

plow 

plow 

the 

the 

ground 

ground 

with 

with 

a 

a 

hand 

hand 

push 

push 

plow." 

plow." 

Mrs. 

Mrs. 

Daniel 

Daniel 

has 

has 

said 

said 

that 

that 

they 

they 

even 

even 

had 

had 

told 

told 

her. 

her. 

"A 

"A 

family 

family 

of 

of 

four 

four 

could 

could 

make 

make 

a 

a 

living 

living 

on 

on 

a 

a 

single 

single 

acre, 

acre, 

since 

since 

four 

four 

crops 

crops 

could 

could 

be 

be 

grown 

grown 

each 

each 

year". 

year". 

Oh 

Oh 

yes, 

yes, 

they 

they 

even 

even 

said, 

said, 

and 

and 

backed 

backed 

it 

it 

up 

up 

with 

with 

government 

government 

reports, 

reports, 

"Frost 

"Frost 

has 

has 

never 

never 

been 

been 

known 

known 

to 

to 

damage 

damage 

the 

the 

tenderest 

tenderest 

vegetation." 

vegetation." 

And 

And 

gee 

gee 

whiz, 

whiz, 

they 

they 

even 

even 

claimed 

claimed 

there 

there 

were 

were 

no 

no 

mosquitoes, mosquitoes, 

either! 

either! 

That 

That 

first 

first 

winter, 

winter, 

according 

according 

to 

to 

Herman 

Herman 

Herndon, 

Herndon, 

there 

there 

were 

were 

fifteen 

fifteen 

frosts 

frosts 

and 

and 

freezes 

freezes 

from 

from 

December 

December 

till 

till 

April 

April 

5th. 

5th. 

Farmers 

Farmers 

tried 

tried 

to 

to 

protect 

protect 

their 

their 

little 

little 

crops 

crops 

by 

by 

burning 

burning 

piles 

piles 

of 

of 

sawgrass, 

sawgrass, 

but 

but 

the 

the 

heat 

heat 

mostly 

mostly 

went 

went 

straight 

straight 

up, 

up, 

so 

so 

some 

some 

plants 

plants 

were 

were 

scorched 

scorched 

while 

while 

the 

the 

majority 

majority 

simply 

simply 

froze. 

froze. 

Anyway, 

Anyway, 

by 

by 

the 

the 

second 

second 

night, 

night, 

there 

there 

were 

were 

no 

no 

more 

more 

sawgrass 

sawgrass 

piles. 

piles. 

Then 

Then 

they 

they 

tried 

tried 

covering 

covering 

the 

the 

plants 

plants 

with 

with 

muck. 

muck. 

This 

This 

worked 

worked 

fine 

fine 

once 

once 

or 

or 

twice 

twice 

and 

and 

with 

with 

small 

small 

plants, 

plants, 

but 

but 

the 

the 

covering 

covering 

and 

and 

uncovering 

uncovering 

was 

was 

near 

near 

about 

about 

as 

as 

damaging 

damaging 

as 

as 

the 

the 

frost. 

frost. 

Since 

Since 

the 

the 

first 

first 

tractors 

tractors 

couldn't 

couldn't 

clear 

clear 

the 

the 

sawgrass, 

sawgrass, 

all 

all 

this 

this 

had 

had 

to 

to 

be 

be 

done 

done 

by 

by 

hand. 

hand. 

Sawgrass 

Sawgrass 

first 

first 

was 

was 

chopped 

chopped 

Hooker and West store and Chosen post office. 

that's where you're dead wrong. As settlers increased, competition 

for good lakeshore land got pretty keen. Disputes 

were frequent and now and again there might be a killing. 

A farmer had to hold his claim by squatter's rights and adverse 

possession, backed up by a Winchester. If the poor 

negro hadn't had a white boss for protection, he wouldn't 

have had a chance. 

Stein had picked some of the best land, and he knew 

how to farm this muck. Already by the war's end he was 

farming 40 acres, which made him one of the biggest farmers 

on the lake. After his death, his son Fritz took over 

the farming operations and expanded the 40 acres to several 

thousand. And now grandson Fritz, Jr. is continuing 

the farming tradition, so it looks as though Steins will 

be farming here for a right smart time to come. 

For a while lock-tender Stein and Burton, further down 

the canal, had these Chosen woods to themselves. But by 

1919 things began to pick up here, and this area got its 

promoter. J. R. Leatherman from Virginia, had moved 

from his orange grove at Wabasso, Florida, bought the 

west half of Section 30, north of the canal and east of the 

GLADE 

GLADE 

CREST 

CREST 

37 

37 




get 

get 

the 

the 

cussed 

cussed 

grass 

grass 

to 

to 

burn. 

burn. Then, with a heavy planter's 

Then, with a heavy planter's 

hoe, 

hoe, 

the 

the 

stubs 

stubs 

and 

and 

roots 

roots 

were 

were 

grubbed 

grubbed 

up, 

up, 

and 

and 

the 

the 

tough, 

tough, 

rope-like 

rope-like 

connecting 

connecting 

runners 

runners 

were 

were 

pulled 

pulled 

up 

up 

with 

with 

a 

a 

potato 

potato 



grubbed 

grubbed 

up, 

up, 

then 

then 

the 

the 

soft 

soft 

ground 

ground 

could 

could 

be 

be 

plowed 

plowed 

with 

with 

a 

a 

push 

push 

plow. 

plow. 

In 

In 

a 

a 

long, 

long, 

hard 

hard 

day 

day 

(all 

(all 

our 

our 

days 

days 

were 

were 

long 

long 

and 

and 

hard, 

hard, 

so 

so 

it 

it 

seemed), 

seemed), 

one 

one 

man 

man 

could 

could 

grub 

grub 

up 

up 

a 

a 

patch 

patch 

of 

of 

saw 

saw 

grass 

grass 

about 

about 

fifty 

fifty 

feet 

feet 

square. 

square. 

That's 

That's 

one-seventeenth 

one-seventeenth 

of 

of 

an 

an 

acre. 

acre. 

To 

To 

get 

get 

one 

one 

acre 

acre 

ready 

ready 

for 

for 

planting 

planting 

was 

was 

about 

about 

a 

a 

month's 

month's 

job 

job 

for 

for 

one 

one 

man. 

man. 

Yet 

Yet 

that 

that 

first 

first 

winter 

winter 

that's 

that's 


' 


' 

Worst 

Worst 

of 

of 

all, 

all, 

we 

we 

learned 

learned 

that 

that 

on 

on 

sawgrass 

sawgrass 

land 

land 

nothing 

nothing 

would 

would 

grow 

grow 

but 

but 

sawgrass 

sawgrass 

! 

! 

The 

The 

brown, 

brown, 

fibrous 

fibrous 

peat 

peat 

had 

had 

to 

to 

be 

be 

stirred 

stirred 

and 

and 

aerated 

aerated 

so 

so 

it 

it 

could 

could 

decompose 

decompose 

into 

into 

black 

black 

muck. 

muck. 

Plants 

Plants 

would 

would 

spring 

spring 

up, 

up, 

turn 

turn 

yellow 

yellow 

and 

and 

die. 

die. 

Yet 

Yet 

where 

where 

Irish 

Irish 

potatoes 

potatoes 

had 

had 

been 

been 

sprayed 

sprayed 

with 

with 

lime 

lime 

and 

and 

copper 

copper 

sulphate 

sulphate 

to 

to 

prevent 

prevent 

blight, 

blight, 

a 

a 

second 

second 

crop 

crop 

of 

of 

potatoes, 

potatoes, 

or 

or 

nearly 

nearly 

anything 

anything 

else, 

else, 

would 

would 

grow 

grow 

fairly 

fairly 

well. 

well. 

So 

So 

that's 

that's 

how 

how 

we 

we 

learned 

learned 

that 

that 

copper 

copper 

in 

in 

this 

this 

soil 

soil 

was 

was 

essential 

essential 

and 

and 

we 

we 

had 

had 

to 

to 

use 

use 

commercial 

commercial 

fertilizer, 

fertilizer, 

too. 

too. 

The 

The 

land 

land 

companies 

companies 

had 

had 

insisted 

insisted 

that 

that 

this 

this 

would 

would 

not 

not 

be 

be 

necessary, 

necessary, 

since 

since 

analysis 

analysis 

showed 

showed 

there 

there 

was 

was 

an 

an 

excess 

excess 

of 

of 

nitrogen. 

nitrogen. 

That 

That 

sounded 

sounded 

fine, 

fine, 

but 

but 

what 

what 

they 

they 

didn't 

didn't 

know 

know 

was 

was 

that 

that 

this 

this 

nitrogen 

nitrogen 

was 

was 

in 

in 

a 

a 

form 

form 

not 

not 

available 

available 

to 

to 

plants. 

plants. 

Oh 

Oh 

boy, boy, 

there 

there 

was 

was 

a 

a 

heap 

heap 

to 

to 

learn! 

learn! 

Yet 

Yet 

in 

in 

spite 

spite 

of 

of 

all, 

all, 

there 

there 

were 

were 

some 

some 

vegetables 

vegetables 

raised. 

raised. 

'l'he 

'l'he 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Lauderdale 

Lauderdale 

Sentinel 

Sentinel 

of 

of 

June 

June 

19, 

19, 

1914 

1914 

states 

states 

that 

that 

J. 

J. 

W. 

W. 

Bissell 

Bissell 

of 

of 

Glade 

Glade 

Crest 

Crest 

had 

had 

sold 

sold 

some 

some 

Irish 

Irish 

potatoes 

potatoes 

for 

for 

$1 

$1 

and 

and 

$1.25 

$1.25 

a 

a 

hamper, 

hamper, 

and 

and 

they 

they 

had 

had 

yielded 

yielded 

at 

at 

the 

the 

r 


te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper 

didn't 

didn't 

state 

state 

how 

how 

many 

many 

hampers 

hampers 

or 

or 

how 

how 

many 

many 

acres 

acres 

Mr. 

Mr. 

Bissell 

Bissell 

had, 

had, 

whether 

whether 

it 

it 

was 

was 

one 

one 

acre 

acre 

or 

or 

more 

more 

or 

or 

less. 

less. 

It 

It 

wouldn't 

wouldn't 

surprise 

surprise 

me 

me 

if 

if 

it 

it 

was 

was 

less. 

less. 

In 

In 

Okeelanta 

Okeelanta 

the 

the 

five 

five 

of 

of 

us, 

us, 

for 

for 

our 

our 

whole 

whole 

winter's 

winter's 

labor, 

labor, 

had 

had 

succeeded 

succeeded 

in 

in 

raising 

raising 

and 

and 

selling 

selling 

only 

only 

40 

40 

hampers 

hampers 

of 

of 

potatoes, 

potatoes, 

ten 

ten 

hampers 

hampers 

of 

of 

beans 

beans 

and 

and 

a 

a 

few 

few 

batches 

batches 

of 

of 

carrots 

carrots 

and 

and 

turnips. 

turnips. 

Our 

Our 

potatoes 

potatoes 

brought 

brought 

$1.50 

$1.50 

and 

and 

$1.75. 

$1.75. 

Schoolhouse at Chosen. 

present Chosen road, built himself a two story house at 

the canal and began to promote the settlement. With him 

came his brother Isaac, a nephew Walter Leatherman, a 

cousin Isaac W. West and West's cousin Walter R. Hooker. 

Hooker and West arrived in 1920 and the following year 

opened a store on the canal which is still being operated 

by West and his family. Hooker left during the boom to 

sell real estate in Miami, but returned to engage in the 

produce business and until his recent death, was still 

prominent in local affairs. 

Then on Section 24, a mile north of the locks and near 

the lake, a number of other people started farming, George 

W. Carter, his brother-in-law John Perry, Mrs. Jeffcoate, 

Frye, Williams and also the Schlechter family, who had 

moved here from down the canal. In the section north of 

them was Paul Johns, who had lived in 1919 in a high 

shack at the locks, but had moved to Section 13, where he 

was joined by a former townsman John Dick, and by several 

other Greek refugees from Asia Minor. All this land 

was densely forested and custard apples had to be cleared 

from every foot of it. 

' '



a plow, but none were interested. However, the Oliver company 

plow, sent but none him a were big interested. gang disc However, plow on a the barge Oliver from com 

Ft. 

a 

pany Lauderdale. sent him After a big the gang salesman disc plow had labored on a barge for half from a Ft. day 

Lauderdale. trying to make After his the plow salesman do the impossible, had labored he for condescended 

half a day 

trying to watch to make a demonstration his plow do the of my impossible, father's patched condescended up plow. 

to Nothing watch a more demonstration was heard of until my father's Fordson patched tractor up plow. came 

Nothing onto the more market. was With heard it until was the Fordson Oliver Number tractor 3 came plow 

onto which the incorporated market. With all it of was my the dad's Oliver ideas. Number Up until 3 plow very 

which recent incorporated years this Oliver all of Number my dad's 3 and ideas. the larger Up until 41B, very were 

recent the only years plows this used Oliver in Number the Everglades. 3 and the My larger dad 41B, never were got 

the a nickel only plows nor a used thank in you the from Everglades. anybody, My but dad he never was got well 

a satisfied. nickel nor The a thank Everglades you from had a anybody, plow at last. but he was well 

satisfied. Glade The Crest Everglades prospered had more a plow or less at for last. a few years, but 

the Glade obstacles Crest were prospered too great. more A or flood less for in 1920 a few caused years, most but 

the settlers obstacles to leave. were Herndon, too great. in A 1921 flood was in 1920 about caused the last. most A 

settlers couple to of leave. miles from Herndon, the settlement, in 1921 was on about the Bolles the last. Canal, A 

couple a Lauderdale of miles man, from James the settlement, E. Jones, continued the Bolles with Canal, a little 

a poultry Lauderdale farm. man, In his James big E. rowboat Jones, he'd continued carry with his chickens a little 

poultry and eggs farm. to Okeelanta In his big and rowboat take back he'd his carry poultry his chickens feed, but 

and he left eggs in to the Okeelanta flood of and 1922 take or back maybe his it poultry was in feed, '24. Then but 

he G. left I. "Dad" in the Evans flood took of 1922 over or the maybe farm it and was stayed in '24. until Then the 

G. hurricane I. "Dad" and Evans flood took in over 1926, the when farm he and came stayed to Belle until Glade the 

hurricane and became and bridge flood in tender. 1926, when Since he Dad came was to a Belle Welshman Glade 

and (you became know all bridge Welshmen tender. love Since to sing) Dad was and a also Welshman a devout 

(you church know member, all Welshmen he was truly love to "a sing) sweet and singer also before a devout the 

church Lord." member, Although he he was had truly not lived "a sweet in the singer settlement, before the Dad 

Lord." Evans Although was the last he had for not many lived years in the to live settlement, in the Glade Dad 

Evans Crest area, was the for last even for then many the settlement years to had live vanished in the Glade without 

a area, trace. for even then the settlement had vanished with 

Crest 

out a trace. 


"Say, if'n you want to take your friend Jim back with 

you tomorrow, you'd better be a-doing somethin' quick! 

Them Jinkins boys are a-beating the living tar outen him! 

If'n you don't want him killed you'd better be gittin' to 

ihim quick!" 

,_. Those Jenkins brothers were numerous and they were 

tough, and it was their sister that Jim had slipped away 

to see. Now, this girl had made the excuse that her bowels 

were powerful loose, and she had slipped out to the backhouse, 

which naturally was surrounded by a clump of bananas. 

But she overplayed her hand ! She stayed so long 

that one of the boys had gone to see if she had fallen in 

the hole. What he found was Jim and her just a loving up 

a storm! 

Jim was a great big fellow, but those Jenkinses had 

worked him over till he couldn't scarcely stand. Now, I 

lacked a heap of being brave, but I couldn't leave a friend 

in trouble. I sashayed up to the mob, fully expecting that 

they'd jump on me. 

"Is this here guy a friend of yours?" one of the buckos 

asked. 

"You're mighty right," I stammered, expecting of the 

worst. 

"Then get him away from here, and be damn sure he 

don't come back!" 

Big as he was, Jim had to lean on me as we plodded to 

the boat. And I don't know how she managed it, but that 

gal actually sneaked into the boat to console Jim before the 

night was over. So romancing on this lake was sometimes 

rough, but Jim and his girl friend later married, and lived 

happily, I reckon, ever after. 

CHAPTER FIVE 

CHAPTER FIVE 

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN 

First Settlers, Schools 

First Settlers, Schools 

and Churches 

and Churches 

Politics in the Swamps 

Just to show you how empty of human beings these Everglades 

Just to were show when you how Slade empty arrived of human at Glade beings Crest, these and Everglades 

Sam Cooper were when and Slade I and arrived three others at Glade settled Crest, at and Okeelanta, when 

when 

Sam I can Cooper near about and I name and three you all others people settled who at lived Okeelanta, on the 

I south-eastern can near about shores name of you this all the big people lake. Let who me lived see on now. the 

south-eastern Where the city shores of South of this Bay big stands lake. there Let were me see only now. Van 

Where Ness and the Henry city of Chase, South and Bay at stands Bean there City were Dowell only Van and 

Ness his wife. and Henry Ritta Chase, (now Lake and at Harbor) Bean City was were the Dowell only settlement 

wife. on Ritta the lake, (now unless Lake you Harbor) want to was include the only the few settle 

pal 

and 

his 

ment metto on shacks the lake, at Utopia unless you on the want north-east to include shore. the few At Ritta palmetto 

the Bolles shacks land at company's Utopia on two the story north-east hotel shore. was run At by Ritta Mrs. 

the Katie Bolles B. land King company's and her daughter, two story hotel Mrs. was "Bertie" run by Stroup. Mrs. 

Katie ·within B. a King mile and or so her on daughter, each side Mrs. of it "Bertie" were William Stroup. H. 

·within Cason, a the mile first or settler so on each of them side all, of it A. were V. Callahan William with H. 

Cason, his demonstration the first settler garden, of them Eugene all, A. Fortson, V. Callahan Richard with M. 

his Thomas demonstration (an uncle garden, of our "Mutt" Eugene Thomas), Fortson, Richard George Watkins, 

Jack (an Taylor, uncle of Dave our "Mutt" Burnett, Thomas), Barber, George Weaver Wat 

and 

M. 

Thomas 

kins, Sparks, Jack and Taylor, the Blakeleys Dave Burnett, who were Barber, catfishing. Weaver and 

Sparks, and the Blakeleys who were catfishing. 

On Ritta Island were Jim Mabry, father of Mrs. Ivan 

Van On Horn, Ritta Island Jim were O'Neal. Jim Mabry, Torry father Island of had Mrs. the Ivan fish 

Van camps Horn, of D. and F. "Dad" Jim O'Neal. Simmons Torry and Ross Island Winne had with the fish Emcamps 

of D. F. "Dad" Simmons and Ross Winne with Em- 

41 

41 

Trying to out figure the workings of politics is about 

like when you're in the piney woods fishing with a hooked 

wire in a gopher hole. (A gopher is a dry land turtle, in 

case some of you pink-eared Yankees may not know. He's 

right good eating, too, if you can't find nothing better.) 

So you're fishing in that gopher hole, but you never know 

whether you'll pull out a tasty gopher, or a pesky rattlesnake. 

Politics can work that way in Okeechobee's swamps 

as well as under the capitol dome. So if'n you want to 

learn what a well organized minority can do, you'll be right 

smart amused when I tell you how Belle Glade got incorporated. 

I was right there in the church house and I saw 

it all happen, yet like the rest of the crowd, I was just 

as blind as a hooty owl at high noon, as to what was a-going 

on. Politics can move in a mysterious way, its blunders to 

perform, but as it happened, this worked out O.K. in the 

end. 

Belle Glade was incorporated April 9, 1928, when the 

whole population hereabouts, I reckon, white and colored, 

couldn't have been more than two or three hundred. Of 

course, by this time we had a rock road to West Palm 

Beach, and the railroad had just arrived, yet only one year 

119 

' 

'


120 120 28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

POLITICS IN THE SW AMPS 121 

before part this, of this, the the stream business was dredged establishments out some had had five consisted years later 

of 

of 

only only to become two two stores, a part one one of gas the gas Thirteen station and and Mile one one Canal hotel. which That Disston 

was 

was 

all. all. had But But intended during to this this continue year, by on by to jingoes, Shark the River. the settlement It now had forms 

had 

begun part to of to the grow. Miami More canal. people As had had this come stream here, was and and new typical new houses of the 

and and lake's stores dead had had rivers, been including built. We We now the now Democrat, had had two two let's hotels, see three what 

gas gas it was stations like. 

(one (one of of them was was mine), and and four grocery 

stores, and and that that was was mighty convenient. When a a fellow used 

up his 

"The river at 

at one 

its mouth is about 100 yards he 

wide, the 

up his "credick" at one store, there were others he could 


go go to. 

to. 


do So So not now now go one some hundred folks were yards talking before of of we incorporating hear exclamations 

the 

the 

settlement, from the just members just to to keep of the ahead party of of in Chosen. praise of the beautiful 

scenery Now, in in which case case greets some Doubting the eye on Thomas every may may side. wonder There how 

how is no 

come perceptible it it that that I current I can can relate so far this this as story we in can in such discern. detail, The I I water reckon is 

I'll I'll clear have as to to crystal, set set you you the right. banks In In the fringed the year with of of 1949 a dense this this tropical 

town 

decided growth to to of celebrate trees, presenting its its 21st 21st anniversary to the view a with solid a a green broadcast wall, 

on on impenetrable the the First town's church new new house to the radio in Belle eye. station. Glade, This West Part wall 2nd of of is the Street the formed program and Canal. by was vines, 

was 

to to which be be a a reconstruction have twined around of of this this the incorporation trunks and meeting. branches Those of the 

still he still trees, could here here and who be who the have had had most interlaced been profane, present and most got got wound insulting together themselves several and most around 

times ef 

for fective for each to to try other try opponent to to until recollect you they the could the form events ever a hope screen of of that that not which day. to day. tangle I is I busily almost up took with. 

took suf 

notes ficient Now, and and to those wrote shut plotters, out a a script the light or from progressive of day. which, Looking on citizens, on the the behind whichever 

broadcast, us we 

you each find man want man that to could we call are repeat them, followed his had his planned original by innumerable that remarks. a good So alligators, So now way now I I can pull 

can who 

give the give are teeth it it swimming to to you of you those near lazily men about who along word opposed in for our for the wake. word. incorporation From all sides would we 

be see In to them that get them plunging elected in of into the water, town remain council. under In that for a few way few 

In that spring of 1928 there were mighty blamed few 

who they seconds, couldn't rise to buck after the we government, have passed only the and old that's join the exactly crowd the behind 

it us. M. worked We do C. out. not go two miles before the river begins 

who wanted to incorporate, only the old settlers, Walter 

way Greer, M. C. "Billy" Eggleston, and and of of course C. C. E. E. to who had There get narrow, had out been and we a a previous find ourselves acre meeting a in in little stream 

Riedel, 

hotel, only 

who had staked out a twenty acre townsite in these custard 

so 

everybody a few yards knew in width, what was was the sunlight C. B. being proposed, completely a and shut on out that by 

apple woods. Another was C. B. Lozier, a but Sunday the branches we night the of trees church and the house vines, was which 

vegetable 

jammed have Dr. with interlocked 

buyer, 

but we mustn't overlook the newcomer, Dr. William those 

J. J. 

who and wanted twined for I to around head each it off. other that Mr. until he Greer a perfect was had the been roof chairman is formed 

the ... other After meeting, going half so he a mile, took we charge find of we this are no one. longer in 

Buck, for I wouldn't doubt that he was the master mind 

of at of the whole dark plot. 

a First stream, he but made winding sure how around many in dark, were registered sluggish water, voters. the 

who of the Of roots the 

Those 

76 and who 

in branches the 

were 

settlement, 

most of the opposed 

72 trees were forming were 

now 

some 

present. a barrier of the 

He to mer 

told our 

chants, Lou C. who had a B. V. the further Lou 

purpose progress C. Betzner 

of the ... meeting As who we had 

and return a grocery, 

outlined we examine B. V. 

the boundaries more Pace closely with 

of 

a a and L. who ran a sup 

the the furniture 

proposed vines which store and 

town, grow Frank 

which so luxuriantly, L. Franz who 

as had been and rumored, find ran a that farm 

included they supply 

and also a who a 

Chosen, 

are 

ply a species place, and 

and 

of 

then 

gourd, also Roscoe 

he 

with 

called 

innumerable Braddock, a 

for discussion. 

gourds farmer hanging who lived from a 

mile mile them, away, perfectly practically round, in in and Chosen. about But But the the the size one one of a most billiard ed by 

dread 

ball. 

Pace, his the furniture was the 

man, jumped up "What's the use 

ed The by his vines opponents run all was over the vegetable trees, and buyer, on the Lewis ground Creech. 

form 

to 

When talk of boundaries? by his First let's and vote a on whether bait of we want 

a mat fortified two by three his feet education deep." and a good bait of liquor, 

to incorporate or not!" 

























POLITICS DEMOCRAT IN IN THE RIVER SW SW AMPS 121 

121 3029 

B 


big and delic 


dred firecrac 


I decided to 


ing one in se 



er showed, I 

few seconds m 


and the sens 

After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party wampee juic 

arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, at numerable the t 


T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this strangely eno 

know that's 

stream to its end, they laid a course south by the compass unbelievably 

for Shark River, ninety miles away by air line. Although and squeal i 

water had evidently been five feet over the land not the too jackdaws 

long before, they found that it now was a scant five inches, sawgrass roo 

and First First under church that house house was in in Belle fifteen Belle Glade, feet, West West more 2nd 2nd or Street less, and and of Canal. soft mud. bills toward 

he So be now the they are compelled to battle the and sharp-edged 

As the p 

he could be the most profane, most insulting and most ef 

ef 

sawgrass, which you they had ever believed not to be to only ten up miles 

also in 

to have 

fective opponent you could ever hope not to tangle up with. 

extent, but which actually persisted clear to the headwaters "All arou 

Now, those plotters, or or progressive citizens, whichever 


but usually the way must be hacked with machetes. ing of a frog 

the the teeth of of those men men who who opposed the the incorporation would 

by any sound 

you you want to to call call them, had had planned that that a a good way way to to pull 

pull 

For many days they were compelled to push and lift their gator would 

be be to to get get them elected into into the the town council. In In that that way 

way 


yards in a day. On November 17th, a week after leav 

As they p 

way way it it worked out. 

out. 

sion we cann 

they they couldn't buck the the government, and and that's exactly the 

the 

ing the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still what deeper. 

There had had been a a previous meeting in in the the hotel, so 


boats so could 

everybody knew what was was being proposed, and and on on that 

that 

half. On the 

Sunday Constantly night the they church were plagued house was was by jammed innumerable with snakes, 

those about five fe 

who who though wanted fortunately, to to head it it nobody off. off. Mr. Mr. was Greer bitten. had had been But they chairman were 

some five ac 

at at tortured the the other by meeting, mosquitoes, so so he he took leeches took charge and of poisonous of this this one. 

one. wampee 

islands were 

plants First "which he he made produce sure sure how how a terrible many were burning registered sensation. voters. and 

Its 

more ple 

Of Of appearance the the 76 76 in in the is the similar settlement, to the 72 72 water were lily, now now the present. leaf being He He told from 

told and on Dece 

the the six purpose to twelve of of the inches the meeting across, and and the outlined root running the the boundaries to a depth 

of then of were in 

the the of six proposed inches, town, and resembles which as as had had a shallot been rumored, in appearance. included We mouth at th 

Chosen, had the and and curiosity then he he to called taste for it. for We discussion. shall do so no more!" schooner whi 

Pace, Yes, the I the know furniture blamed man, well jumped they up didn't! up "What's That the the wampee 

use 

use civilization. 

to to was talk talk a of of hellish boundaries? plant, First nobody let's let's would vote vote on on ever whether taste we we it twice! 

want taken 27 day 

to to Indian incorporate turnip or or it's not!" called up north. It's tuber looks like in a Shark Riv 

I was one of t 

Okeelanta bec 

Haven, (a;d o 


first one of al 


first, though, 



eclipse Okeelan 

ships like to 


vanished witho 


well, to a cert 


settler heard the racket and rescued them with his boat. Holland an 

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing Bolles, to but ha 

medicine in the camp. The boy must have been pretty States Land an 

tough for the leg got well, but he was promoted to be camp ship 44 and R 


This land they 

unseen", to pe 

By the winter of 1914-15, besides Slade, there were the arrived the lan 



the following f 

sister to one of the Bissell ladies. Later, Shields and his Master of Mas 

son, who had some boats and barges, started a little store, coast, arid sub 



On this job 


the crew got 

than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft. swim the cana 


34 BEL 

In later years 

B


34 34 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

122 122 

122 

BELLE BELLE 

BELLE 

GLADE 122 BELLE GLADE GLADE 

FROM FROM 

FROM FROM 

SW SW 

SW SW 

AMP AMP TO BOWL 

AMP AMP 

TO 

TO TO 

SUGAR 

SUGAR SUGAR 

BOWL 

BOWL BOWL 

"I "I 

"I 

can can 

can 

see see 

see 

your your 

your 

point, point, 

point, 

Mr. Mr. 

Mr. 

Pace," Pace," 

Pace," 

Greer Greer 

Greer 

replied, replied, 

"but "but 

"I can see your point, Mr. Pace," Greer replied, "but "but 

how how 

how 

can can 

can 

we we 

we 

know know 

know 

if if 

if 

we we 

we 

want want 

want 

to to 

to 

incorporate unless unless 

unless 

we we 

how can we know if we want to incorporate unless we we 

decide decide 

first first 

first 

what what 

what 

the the 

the 

incorporation should should 

include?" 

decide first what the incorporation should include?" include?" 

Then Then 

Then 

Ross Ross 

Ross 

Winne Winne 

stood stood 

stood 

up. up. 

up. 

"You "You 

"You 

all all 

all 

know know 

know 

I I live live live 

on on 

Then Ross Winne stood up. "You all know I live on on 

Torry Torry 

Torry 

island, island, 

but but 

but 

Ike Ike 

Ike 

West West 

West 

and and 

and 

Stein Stein 

Stein 

and and several and several 

other other 

Torry island, but Ike West and Stein and several other other 

men men 

men 

in in 

in 

Chosen Chosen 

asked asked 

asked 

me me 

me 

to to 

to 

represent represent 

them them 

them 

here. here. 

here. 

They They 

They 

figureured 

fig 

men in Chosen asked me to represent them here. They figured 

you'd want to take them in and they are all, all, every every 

figured 

you'd you'd 

you'd 

want want 

want 

to to 

to 

take take 

take 

them them 

them 

in in 

in 

and and 

and 

they they 

they 

are are 

are 

all, all, every every 

one one 

one 

of of 

of 

them, them, 

them, 

opposed opposed 

to to 

to 

being being 

being 

included included 

in in 

in 

Belle Belle 

Belle 

Glade. Glade. 

Glade. 

If If 

one of them, opposed to being included Belle Glade. If If 

they they 

they 

want want 

want 

a a town town town 

they'll they'll 

they'll 

form form 

form 

one one 

one 

of of 

of 

their their 

their 

own!" own!" 

they want a town they'll form one of their own!" own!" 

Considerable warm warm 

warm 

discussion discussion 

finally finally 

set set 

set 

the the 

the 

boundary 

Considerable warm discussion finally set the boundary boundary 

on on 

on 

the the 

the 

section section 

line line 

line 

at at 

at 

Chosen's east east border Chosen's east border 

but but 

but 

excluding 

on the section line at Chosen's east border but excluding excluding 

West's West's 

store store 

store 

which which 

which 

contained contained 

the the 

the 

Chosen West's store which contained the Chosen Chosen 

post post 

post post 

office, office, office, 

and and 

and and 

happened happened happened 

to to 

to to 

be be 

be be 

on on 

on on 

the the 

the the 

wrong wrong wrong 

side side 

side side 

of of 

of of 

the the 

the the 

line. line. 

line. line. 

The The 

The The 

whole whole 

whole whole 

area area 

area area 

decided decided decided 

on on 

on on 

was was 

was was 

about about 

about about 

half half 

half half 

a square a a square square 

mile. mile. 

mile. mile. 

Greer Greer 

Greer Greer 

then then 

then then 

called called 

called called 

for for 

for for 

nominations nominations for for 

for for 

mayor, mayor, mayor, 

at at which which 

at at which which 

Roscoe Roscoe Roscoe 

Braddock Braddock Braddock 

exclaimed, exclaimed, exclaimed, 

"Before "Before "Before 

we we 

we we 

start start 

start start 

voting voting voting 

for for 

for for 

a a 

a 

mayor mayor mayor 

I believe I I believe believe 

we we 

we we 

should should should 

discuss discuss discuss 

whether whether whether 

we we 

we we 

even even 

even even 

want want 

want want 

to to 

to incorporate. to 

incorporate. I've I've 

I've I've 

talked talked 

talked talked 

to to 

to a to 

a good a good 

good good 

many many 

many many 

of of 

of of 

those those 

those those 

present 

present present 

here here 

here here 

and and 

and and 

find find 

find find 

that that 

that that 

very very 

very very 

few few 

few few 

believe believe believe 

we we 

we we 

are are 

are are 

ready ready 

ready ready 

for for 

for for 

such such 

such such 

a move." a a move." 

move." 

"Billy" "Billy" "Billy" 

Eggleston Eggleston Eggleston 

answered answered answered 

by by 

by by 

pointing pointing pointing 

out out 

out out 

that that no no 

that that no no 

place place 

place place 

could could 

could could 

hope hope 

hope hope 

to to 

to to 

advance advance advance 

unless unless 

unless unless 

it it 

it had it 

had had 

had 

some some 

some some 

kind kind 

kind kind 

of of 

of of 

organization. organization. He He 

He He 

stressed stressed stressed 

the the 

the the 

need need 

need need 

for for 

for for 

rocking rocking rocking 

the the muddy 

the the muddy muddy 

streets, streets, streets, 

for for 

for for 

electricity electricity electricity 

and and 

and and 

good good 

good good 

water water 

water water 

and and 

and and 

for for 

for for 

influencing 

influencing 

the the 

the the 

county to get us more and better roads. 

county county 

to 

to to 

get 

get get 

us 

us us 

more 

more more 

and 

and and 

better 

better better 

roads. 

roads. roads. 

The The was so Greer 

The The 

resulting 

resulting resulting 

argument 

argument argument 

was 

was was 

getting 

getting getting 

nowhere, 

nowhere, nowhere, 

so 

so so 

Greer 

Greer Greer 

again again called for of a for which job he 

again again 

called 

called called 

for 

for for 

nomination 

nomination of 

of of 

a mayor, 

a mayor, mayor, 

for 

for for 

which 

which which 

job 

job job 

he 

he he 

was was easily Then he called for for town 

was was 

easily 

easily easily 

elected. 

elected. elected. 

Then 

Then Then 

he 

he he 

called 

called called 

for 

for for 

names 

names names 

for 

for for 

town 

town town 

clerk, clerk, and J. M. Kelly, Capt. book 

clerk, clerk, 

and 

and and 

J. 

J. J. 

M. 

M. M. 

Kelly, 

Kelly, Kelly, 

Capt. 

Capt. Capt. 

"Hamp" 

"Hamp" "Hamp" 

Holloway's bookkeeper 

was keeper keeper 

Holloway's Holloway's book 

book 

was 

was was 

elected. 

elected. elected. 

Meanwhile, a heap of and ing was going on. again got up, and stated in 

Meanwhile, however, 

however, however, 

a heap 

a heap heap 

of 

of of 

fidgeting 

fidgeting fidgeting 

and whispering 

and and whisperining 

whisper 

was 

was was 

going 

going going 

on. 

on. on. 

Braddock 

Braddock Braddock 

again 

again again 

got 

got got 

up, 

up, up, 

and 

and and 

stated 

stated stated 

in 

in in 

his his "Mr. Greer, as I said 

his his 

precise 

precise precise 

college-educated 

college-educated manner, 

manner, manner, 

"Mr. 

"Mr. "Mr. 

Greer, 

Greer, Greer, 

as 

as as 

I said 

I said 

said 

before, we are too with these before, before, 

we 

we we 

are 

are are 

proceeding 

proceeding proceeding 

too 

too too 

hastily 

hastily hastily 

with 

with with 

these 

these these 

elections. 

elections. elections. 

Let's Let's decide first if we want to I 

Let's Let's 

decide 

decide decide 

first 

first first 

if 

if we if 

we 

we 

want 

want want 

to 

to to 

incorporate. 

incorporate. Personally 

Personally Personally 

I 

I 

am am I live right next to the post am am 

opposed. 

opposed. opposed. 

I live 

I live live 

right 

right right 

next 

next next 

to 

to to 

the 

the the 

Chosen 

Chosen Chosen 

post 

post post 

office, 

office, office, 

which which you have just from the town which which 

you 

you you 

have 

have have 

just 

just just 

excluded 

excluded excluded 

from 

from from 

the 

the the 

town 

town town 

limits. 

limits. limits. 

Except 

Except Except 



I I was one of of them, set up up camp there, and in in a a few years 


Haven, (a;d of of course, Davie, back of of Ft. Lauderdale, the 

first one of of all) in in the whole dad burned Everglades. At At 

first, though, it it looked as as if if Glade Crest was likely to to 


like to to have finished them both. Glade Crest has 

vanished without a a trace, but Okeelanta has survived - 

well, to to a a certain extent, that is. is. 


keelanta became the biggest town, except for Moore 

aven, (a;d of course, Davie, back of Ft. Lauderdale, the 

irst one of all) in the whole dad burned Everglades. At 

irst, though, it looked as if Glade Crest was likely to 

eclipse Okeelanta, but floods and frosts and frontier hardhips 


anished without a trace, but Okeelanta has survived - 

ell, to a certain extent, that is. 

Holland and Butterworth, who had sold land for R. R. J. J. 

Bolles, but had a a falling out, bought from the Southern 

States Land and Timber Company all all of of Section 20, Township 

44 44 and Range 38, and they christened it it Glade Crest. 

This land they then sold in in five and ten acre tracts, "sight 

unseen", to to people in in the north. When the first settlers 


the following fall a a surveyor, Cleveland W. Horne arrived. 



tates Land and Timber Company all of Section 20, Township 



nseen", to people in the north. When the first settlers 

rrived the land had not yet even been surveyed. However, 


In In later years he he was to to have the honor of of being Grand 

Master of of Masons in in Florida. Horne ran a a line from the 





On this job, while burning off the sawgrass, some of of 

the crew got surrounded by by the raging fire and had to to 

swim the canal. That wasn't so so bad, but a a few days later, 


he crew got surrounded by the raging fire and had to 

wim the canal. That wasn't so bad, but a few days later, 


POLITICS POLITICS 

IN IN 

POLITICS IN IN 

THE THE 

THE THE 

SW SW AMPS 123 

SW SW 

AMPS 123 

AMPS AMPS 123 123 

GLADE CREST 35 35 

for for 

for 

a a store store store 

near near 

near 

the the 

the 

depot depot 

depot 

there there 

there 

are are 

are 

only only 

only 

two two 

two 

houses houses 

betweetween 

be 

for a store near the depot there are only two houses between 

me and the Belle Glade bridge. That's a mile of of 

between 

me me 

me 

and and 

and 

the the 

the 

Belle Belle 

Belle 

Glade Glade 

Glade 

bridge. bridge. 

That's That's 

a a mile mile 

mile 

of of 

open open 

open 

farm farm 

farm 

land land 

land 

that that 

that 

will will 

will 

be be 

be 

taxed taxed 

taxed 

as as 

as 

city city 

city 

property." 

open farm land that will be taxed as city property." property." 

Then Then 

Then 

Lou Lou 

Lou 

Betzner Betzner 

rose, rose, 

rose, 

"For "For 

"For 

once once 

once 

I agree I agree agree 

with with 

with 

Roscoe. 

Then Lou Betzner rose, "For once I agree with Roscoe. Roscoe. 

We We 

We 

are are 

are 

certainly certainly 

not not 

not 

ready. ready. 

ready. 

We We 

We 

don't don't 

don't 

have have 

have 

the the 

the 

population, 

We are certainly not ready. We don't have the population, 

nor nor 

nor 

any any 

any 

immediate immediate 

chance chance 

of of 

of 

getting getting 

it, it, 

it, 

and and we we 

and we 

don't don't want want 

nor any immediate chance of getting it, and we don't don't want want 

any any 

any 

more more 

more 

taxes taxes 

taxes 

than than 

than 

what what 

what 

we've we've 

we've 

already already 

got. got. 

got. 

Let's Let's vote vote 

Let's vote 

it it 

any more taxes than what we've already got. Let's vote it it 

down down 

down 

and and 

and 

adjourn!" 

down and adjourn!" adjourn!" 

Greer Greer 

Greer 

replied, replied, 

"As "As 

"As 

to to 

to 

taxes, taxes, 

taxes, 

Lou, Lou, 

Lou, 

we we 

we 

propose propose 

to to 

to 

incorporate 

Greer replied, "As to taxes, Lou, we propose to incorporate 

under what is known as the 'village act', under which which 

incorporatorate 

under under 

under 

what what 

what 

is is 

is 

known known 

as as 

as 

the the 

the 

'village 'village 

act', act', 

act', 

under under 

under 

which which 

we we 

we 

would would 

would 

not not 

not 

be be 

be 

allowed allowed 

to to 

to 

levy levy 

levy 

any any 

any 

taxes. taxes. 

taxes. 

Necessary Necessary 

expensepenses 

ex 

we would not be allowed to levy any taxes. Necessary expenses 

would be paid by fines and and 

ex 

would would 

would 

be be 

be 

paid paid 

paid 

by by 

by 

fines fines 

fines 

and and forfeitures, forfeitures, by by 

by by 

assessments 

assessmentments 

assessments 

for for 

for for 

special special special 

benefits benefits benefits 

or or 

or or 

by by 

by by 

voluntary voluntary voluntary 

contributions, contributions, so so 

so so 

there there 

there there 

is is 

is no is 

no no 

no 

need need 

need need 

to to 

to to 

worry worry worry 

about about taxes." 

about about taxes." taxes." 

"Then "Then 

"Then "Then 

that that 

that that 

settles settles settles 

it," it," 

it," it," 

shouted shouted shouted 

Louis Louis 

Louis Louis 

Creech. Creech. Creech. 

"We'd "We'd 

"We'd "We'd 

be be 

be be 

no no 

no no 

better better 

better better 

off off 

off off 

than than 

than than 

we we 

we we 

are are 

are are 

right right 

right right 

now. now. 

now. now. 

I say I say 

I say say 

let's let's 

let's let's 

adjourn. 

adjourn. adjourn. 

We We 

We We 

don't don't 

don't don't 

need need 

need need 

any any 

any any 

damn damn 

damn damn 

corporation, corporation, and and 

and and 

I'm I'm 

I'm I'm 

against against against 

it it 

it it 

from from 

from from 

now now 

now now 

till till 

till till 

hell hell 

hell hell 

freezes freezes freezes 

over over 

over over 

!" !" 

!" !" 

"Well, "Well, 

"Well, "Well, 

gentlemen," gentlemen," said said 

said said 

Greer, Greer, 

Greer, Greer, 

"it "it 

"it "it 

may may 

may may 

be be 

be be 

that that 

that that 

you you 

you you 

are are 

are are 

right, right, 

right, right, 

but but 

but but 

some some 

some some 

of of 

of of 

us us 

us us 

have have 

have have 

given given 

given given 

this this matter this this matter matter 

a a great great 

a great great 

deal deal 

deal deal 

of of 

of of 

thought thought thought 

and and 

and and 

believe believe believe 

that that 

that that at least at 

least least 

least 

it it should it should it should 

be be considered. 

be be considered. 

Now Now 

Now Now 

since since 

since since 

we we 

we we 

have have 

have have 

started started started 

this, this, 

this, this, 

and and 

and and 

while while 

while while 

you you 

you you 

all all 

all all 

are are 

are are 

here, here, 

here, here, 

let's let's 

let's let's 

just just 

just just 

go go 

go go 

ahead ahead 

ahead ahead 

and and 

and and 

see see 

see see 

who who 

who who 

we we 

we we 

would would 

would would 

consider consider consider 

suitable 

suitable suitable 

members members members 

for for 

for for 

a a town town in case we decide to 

a town town 

council 

council council 

in 

in in 

case 

case case 

we 

we we 

should 

should should 

decide 

decide decide 

to 

to to 

incorporate." 

incorporate." 

Slips Slips were with to write 

Slips Slips 

were 

were were 

passed 

passed passed 

around 

around around 

with 

with with 

instructions 

instructions to 

to to 

write 

write write 

five five for There was five five 

names 

names names 

for 

for for 

commissioners. There 

commissioners. 

There There 

was 

was was 

considerable 

considerable 

challenging of One man, Gay, was challenging of 

of of 

voters. 

voters. voters. 

One 

One One 

man, Murray 

man, man, Murray Murray 

Gay, 

Gay, Gay, 

was 

was was 

caught 

caught caught 

in in the act of nine into the hat, 

in in 

the 

the the 

act 

act act 

of 

of of 

dropping 

dropping dropping 

nine 

nine nine 

complete 

complete complete 

ballots 

ballots ballots 

into 

into into 

the 

the the 

hat, 

hat, hat, 

and and he lived in South Bay at that. 

and and 

he 

he he 

lived 

lived lived 

in 

in in 

South 

South South 

Bay 

Bay Bay 

at 

at that. 

that. that. 

Pace Pace again the floor. these are 

Pace Pace 

again 

again again 

claimed 

claimed claimed 

the 

the the 

floor. "While 

floor. floor. "While "While 

these 

these these 

ballots 

ballots ballots 

are 

are are 

being being I call for more on this being being 

counted 

counted counted 

I call 

I call call 

for 

for for 

more 

more more 

discussion 

discussion discussion 

on on 

this incorporation." 

was what he asked for and that's what 

this this incorporation.ation." 

incorpor 

Discussion 

Discussion Discussion 

was 

was was 

what 

what what 

he 

he he 

asked 

asked asked 

for 

for for 

and 

and and 

that's 

that's that's 

what 

what what 

he he got, from and others who to 

he he 

got, 

got, got, 

mostly 

mostly mostly 

from 

from from 

Eggleston 

Eggleston Eggleston 

and 

and and 

others 

others others 

who 

who who 

wanted 

wanted wanted 

to 

to to 

see see it done, till Greer cut them off with, "I see that the 

see see 

it 

it done, it 

done, 

done, 

till 

till till 

Greer 

Greer Greer 

cut 

cut cut 

them 

them them 

off 

off off 

with, 

with, with, 

"I 

"I "I 

see 

see see 

that 

that that 

the 

the the 

tellers are ready. Mrs. which five tellers tellers 

are 

are are 

ready. 

ready. ready. 

Mrs. 

Mrs. Mrs. 

Lanham, 

Lanham, Lanham, 

which 

which which 

five 

five five 

names 

names names 

received 

received received 

the the most the the 

most 

most most 

votes?" 

votes?" votes?" 


Okeelanta bec 

Haven, (a;d o 

one of of these same boys, while far from the settlement, got 


bitten by by a a moccasin. His ankle swelled until he he couldn't 


work, so so the crew abandoned surveying and began fran 


tically to to hack a a trail through the head high sawgrass. 

ships like to 

They knew the direction to to the settlement but with grass 


so so high, couldn't see any buildings. It It was pitch dark when 


they got to to the canal, and they began to to shout. Finally a a 


Holland an 

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing Bolles, to to but ha 

medicine in in the camp. 

The boy must have been pretty 

States Land an 

tough for the leg got well, but he he was promoted to to be be camp 

ship 44 and R 




By the winter of of 1914-15, besides Slade, there were the arrived the lan 

families of of Baker, Daniel, Elsasser, Herndon, Garrett, Met 


calf and two Bissell families and a a Mrs. Chisolm who was 

sister to to one of of the Bissell ladies. Later, Shields and his Master of Mas 

son, who had some boats and barges, started a a little store, 

coast, arid sub 


Woods, in in his boat Bonnie made occasional trips 

On this job 

down it it to to the coast. Although this route was far shorter 

the crew got 

than by by way of of Torry Island and down the canal to to Ft. swim the cana 

Sawgrass plow with mouldboard slatted for for better scouring. 























34 BEL 


B


36 


124 SW AMP TO 124 124 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

36 


She 

She She announced, announced, "Lewis "Lewis Creech, Creech, Lou 

Lou Lou Betzner, Betzner, Frank 

Frank 

Franz, Franz, B. 

B. B. V. 

V. V. Pace Pace and 

and and Dr. 

Dr. Dr. Buck." 

Buck." 

"Well, "Well, gentlemen gentlemen you 

you you have have heard heard the 

the the names names of 

of of those 

those 

you 

you you have have approved approved as 

as as a a town town council council and 

and and I I think think you 

you you have 

have 

made made mighty mighty good good selections. selections. Now Now who who would would make make a a good 

good 

town town marshall marshall ?" 

?" 

?" 

While While ballots ballots on 

on on marshall marshall were were being being counted counted Betzner 

Betzner 

spoke spoke up 

up up again. again. "Before "Before we 

we we go 

go go any 

any any farther farther with with this 

this this fiasco, 

fiasco, 

let's let's vote vote once once and 

and and for 

for for all 

all all on 

on on whether whether we 

we we want want to 

to to incorp 

incorporatorate 

Belle Belle Glade. Glade. This This nominating nominating and 

and and balloting balloting is 

is is getting 

getting 

nowhere. nowhere. We're We're only only wasting wasting our 

our our time! time! I I make make a a motion 

motion 

that that we 

we we don't don't incorporate. incorporate. 

That's the reason we're here 

That's the the reason we're here 

anyway." 

anyway." 

At 

At At which which the 

the the carpenter, carpenter, "Blondy" "Blondy" Newman, Newman, slightly 

slightly 

high, high, staggered staggered to 

to to his 

his his feet 

feet feet to 

to to make make this 

this this classic classic statement. 

statement. 

"Le's "Le's deschide deschide if 

if if we 

we we are 

are are men men or 

or or mouse. mouse. If 

If If we're we're men men let's 

let's 

kill 

kill kill zis 

zis zis perposition, perposition, but 

but but if 

if if we're we're mice mice let's let's go 

go go crawl crawl in 

in in a 

a 

hole!" 

hole!" 

Greer Greer had 

had had to 

to to pound pound like 

like like mad mad to 

to to stop stop the 

the the applause 

applause 

while while he 

he he announced announced that that Clarence Clarence Everett, Everett, the 

the the Ford Ford sub 

subdealerdealer, 

had 

had had been been elected elected marshal]. marshal]. Then Then rising rising to 

to to his 

his his full 

full 

full 

six 

six six feet 

feet feet of 

of of blacksmith's blacksmith's bone bone and 

and and muscle muscle he 

he he sprung sprung the 

the 

the 

trap. 

trap. 

"Ladies "Ladies and 

and and gentlemen, gentlemen, you 

you you being being a a representative 

representative 

group group comprising comprising more more than than two 

two two thirds thirds of 

of of the 

the the qualified 

qualified 

electors electors residing residing in 

in in the 

the the proposed proposed town, town, have have elected elected a 

a 

mayor, mayor, a a town town clerk, clerk, a a board board of 

of of councilmen councilmen and 

and and a a law 

law law en 

en 

enforcemenforcement 

officer. officer. Having Having complied complied with with Public Public Law Law No. 

No. 

No. 

1825 1825 of 

of of the 

the the Revised Revised Statutes Statutes of 

of of Florida, Florida, you 

you you have have duly 

duly 

incorporated incorporated the 

the the Town Town of 

of of Belle Belle Glade, Glade, and 

and and I I do 

do do now now declare 

declare 

it 

it it to 

to to be 

be be legally legally incorporated!" 

incorporated!" 

Creech Creech jumped jumped up 

up up like 

like like a a wildcat, wildcat, "That's "That's illegal! illegal! You 

You 

can't can't do 

do do that! that! I I object object to 

to to the 

the the whole whole blankety-blank blankety-blank proceed 

proceedinging! 

It's 

It's It's a a subterfuge! subterfuge! I'm 

I'm I'm going going to 

to to take take it 

it it to 

to to court! court! I'll 

I'll 

I'll 

get 

get get an 

an an injunction!" 

injunction!" 

"Mr. "Mr. Creech," Creech," said said Greer Greer smiling smiling like 

like like a a gator gator slipping 

slipping 

up 

up up on 

on on a a rabbit, rabbit, "didn't "didn't you 

you you take take part part in 

in in voting voting for 

for for these 

these 

men men who who were were elected?" 

elected?" 




































either! 










as the frost. 


















either! 










as the frost. 






























POLITICS IN IN IN THE THE SW SW SW AMPS 125 

125 

125 



"You're "You're mighty mighty blankety-blank blankety-blank right right I I did, 

did, did, and 

and and every 

every 

man man I I voted voted for 

for for was 

was was elected, elected, too," too," shouted shouted Creech, Creech, who who was 

was 

was 

bald bald as 

as as a a cooter, cooter, and 

and and whose whose shining shining pate pate was 

was was getting getting red 

red 

red 

enough enough to 

to to catch catch ablaze. ablaze. "But "But I I tell 

tell tell you 

you you we 

we we are 

are are not 

not not ready 

ready 

to 

to 

to form 

form a a damn 

damn town. 

town. Why, 

Why, we 

we 

we are 

are 

are still 

still 

still only 

only a a bunch 

bunch of 

of 

of 

country 

country muck 

muck rats 

rats with 

with sawgrass 

sawgrass in 

in 

in our 

our 

our hair!" hair!" 

"Thash 

"Thash right, 

right, Mr. 

Mr. 

Mr. Creesh," 

Creesh," stammered 

stammered Blondy, 

Blondy, "some 

"some 

of 

of 

of us 

us 

us muck 

muck rats 

rats do 

do 

do have 

have shawgrash 

shawgrash in 

in 

in our 

our 

our hair, 

hair, but 

but 

but where 

where 

in 

in 

in tarnation 

tarnation are 

are 

are you 

you 

you gonna 

gonna put 

put 

put your 

your shawgrash 

shawgrash ?" 

?" 

?" 

Above 

Above the 

the 

the resulting 

resulting laughter, laughter, Greer 

Greer pounded 

pounded for 

for 

for order 

order 

and 

and 

and then 

then called 

called on 

on 

on Newman 

Newman T. 

T. 

T. Miller, 

Miller, a a prominent 

prominent attorney attorney 

from 

from West 

West Palm 

Palm Beach, 

Beach, who 

who by 

by 

by some 

some sort 

sort 

sort of 

of 

of coincidence 

coincidence 

just 

just accidently 

accidently happened 

happened to 

to 

to be 

be 

be seated 

seated in 

in 

in the 

the 

the rear rear pew. 

pew. 

Miller 

Miller assured 

assured them 

them all 

all 

all that 

that the 

the 

the town 

town was 

was 

was indeed 

indeed now 

now lawfully 

lawfully 

organized, 

organized, and 

and 

and just 

just 

just as 

as 

as soon 

soon as 

as 

as the 

the 

the elected 

elected officials 

officials 

were 

were sworn 

sworn in, 

in, 

in, it 

it 

it could 

could proceed 

proceed to 

to 

to function. 

function. 

Mister, 

Mister, that 

that was 

was 

was a a mad 

mad bunch 

bunch of 

of 

of country 

country muck 

muck rats 

rats 

who 

who swarmed 

swarmed out 

out 

out of 

of 

of the 

the 

the church 

church house 

house door, 

door, and 

and 

and for 

for 

for a 

a 

while 

while the 

the 

the new 

new mayor 

mayor was 

was 

was not 

not 

not the 

the 

the most 

most popular 

popular man 

man in 

in 

in 

town. 

town. He 

He 

He had 

had 

had three 

three days 

days in 

in 

in which 

which to 

to 

to take 

take the 

the 

the oath 

oath of 

of 

of 

office, 

office, but 

but 

but rather 

rather than 

than risk 

risk any 

any 

any accidents, 

accidents, he 

he 

he took 

took off 

off 

off that 

that 

same 

same night 

night for 

for 

for West 

West Palm 

Palm Beach 

Beach and 

and 

and hopped 

hopped the 

the 

the train 

train for for 

for 

Jacksonville. 

Jacksonville. (He 

(He 

(He said 

said he 

he 

he needed 

needed to 

to 

to attend 

attend the 

the the Baptist 

Baptist 

Convention.) 

Convention.) But, 

But, anyway, 

anyway, he 

he 

he took 

took good 

good care 

care to 

to 

to be 

be 

be sworn 

sworn 

in 

in 

in before 

before he 

he 

he got 

got 

got back 

back home. 

home. 

So 

So 

So now 

now you 

you 

you see 

see 

see what 

what an 

an 

an organized 

organized minority 

minority can 

can 

can do. 

do. 

do. 

That's 

That's what 

what I I call 

call 

call politics 

politics in 

in 

in the 

the 

the swamps. 

swamps. 






















' 
















' 















I was one of th 

Okeelanta beca 

one of these same boys, while 

Haven, 

far from the settlement, got 

(a;d of 


first one of all 






ships like to h 





settler heard the racket and rescued them with his boat. Holland and 

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing Bolles, to but had 

medicine in the camp. The boy must have been pretty States Land an 

tough for the leg got well, but he was promoted to be camp ship 44 and Ra 





arrived the lan 





Master of Mas 

son, who had some boats and barges, started a little store, coast, arid sub 


Woods, in his boat Bonnie made occasional trips On this job 

down it to the coast. Although this route was far shorter the crew got s 

than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft. swim the cana 


























' 

' 

34 BEL 


B


for a visit. Believe me brother, in those days when most 

people had to be satisfied with a six or eight mile boat, 

the Elizabeth Adams was the envy of every boatman and 

every settler on this lake! 

So now let's hear about the murder of this boat, a sad 

story it is, for sure. When Moore and Adams decided to 

abandon their Mystery Farm, most of the farm's equipment 

was shipped to Iowa, a few pieces were sold, and 

everything remaining was completely destroyed, even to 

burning down the buildings. 

Meanwhile, it seems, the owner's niece, the original 

Elizabeth Adams, had died. W. P. Adams then determined 

that no one should ever possess her namesake boat. Accordingly, 

and following the usual detailed instructions from 

Iowa, Hiverly and Eggleston towed the launch six miles 

offshore in Lake Okeechobee. Then, with an axe, they 

demolished the lamps, the search light and all the fittings, 

and smashed in the decks and lockers. Not yet satisfied, 

they drenched the hull from stem to stern with gasoline, 

chopped a hole in her bottom, touched a match, and stood 

by to watch until the blazing hulk sunk beneath the waves. 

Eggleston told me that his conscience haunte:i him with 

the recollection from that day on. 

But that, my friend, was the final wind up of the famous 

Mystery Farm ! 

LADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

CHAPTER CHAPTER SEVENTEEN SIX 

Romance The Chosen in the Place Woods 

In those days when settlers were few and scattered 


and there were no towns to speak of, romancing used to 


be right tolerably difficult. A few married women could 

of Belle Glade, yet in another way it's not. While the first 

be found in some of the fish camps and settlers' cabins, 


but of single girls there were mighty few, and with so 


many 

Chosen 

single 

had an 

men 

active 

about, 

promoter, 

competition 

and 

could 

for a 

be 

while 

right 

it 

keen. 

even 

Getting a chance to do some courting was a problem in 

seemed that Chosen might be the leading town. Believe me 

itself, even if the lady was willing, which she likely was. 

brother, jealousy was keen. Yet now, Belle Glade is a 

You 

fair sized 

could 

city, 

crank 

while 

up 

Chosen 

your pop-pop 

still is not 

launch, 

incorporated. 

travel a 

Those 

mile 

or 

folks 

two, 

sure 

or 

as 

maybe 

heck 

ten, 

don't 

drop 

want 

your 

to be 

anchor 

city slickers. 

before you ran 

aground, then roll up your best pants and wade ashore. 

Then, While not forgetting the people to down put the on your canal shoes, were you'd doing tramp about the and 

trail getting through organized, the elder Hans thicket Stein, to the the original clearing settler around at the 

house. lake end of the canal was busily tending to his own affairs, 

locking Of course, boats if through your girl from was the outside lake with picking one beans, hand while that 

was he cleared practically up elder perfect. land You with could the other, get a hamper until he and became go 

to one picking of the right big farmers along side on the of her. shore. But Stein, more'n originally likely she'd from 

be Courland, inside the on house, the Baltic washing sea, had dishes come or from some Wisconsin such chore. to 

Then Manatee you'd where have he to was chew trying the fat to with raise the celery, old man until or Wagner maybe 

persuaded with big him brother to try for his a luck spell, at hoping share cropping to goodness on Kreamer 

Island. a chance Moving to converse his family with by the wagon object to Lakeport, of your visit, then 

you'd 

get 

which by barge seldom across happened. the lake, Worst he farmed of all, on there Kreamer was no in place 1916 

DEMOCRAT RIVER 113 29 50 

34 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO 

was dredged out some five years later 

the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 


plentiful in the custard apple forest, although they then

scouring. 


35 


114 114 BELLE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

to to to go. go. You You couldn't take take a a quiet quiet stroll stroll at at night. The The mos 

mosquitoes 

would eat eat you you up! up! And And there there was was no no place place to to to go 

go 

in in in the the boat, boat, even even if if if if her her father would permit it, it, which he 

he 

wouldn't. That That made made romancing rather rough. 

big and delicious potato, but it it is is hotter than seven hundred 

firecrackers. Although I I had seen men taste wampee, 

I I decided to to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking 

one in in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer 

showed, I I took one cautious bite and spit it it out. In a 




tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I I 

know that's so, and those needles are red hot to to boot! Yet 

strangely enough, wild hogs used to to love the root, and got 


and squeal in in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even 

the jackdaws which used to to follow us as we grubbed up 




also to to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence. 


by any sound of animal life of of any description. The croaking 




As they progressed, the water in in places became somewhat 

deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in in which their 




some five acres in in extent. However on December 3rd the 




then were in Shark River, which they descended to to its 

mouth at at the Gulf of Mexico. 


schooner which had come to to meet them for the return to to 



in in Shark River, had been only three miles a day. 

There was was one one time time when when I I thought I I I had I had that that situation 

licked, although of of course, in in the the Everglades nothing ever 

ever 

turned out out the the way way you'd you'd expect it it it it to. to. I I I was was running the 

the 

big big tow tow boat boat Leviathan and and had had to to to pick pick up up an an empty barge 

at at at Belle Belle Glade. Now Now it it it it so so happened that that there there was was a a right 

right 

pretty and and a a very very friendly girl girl in in that that settlement that that I 

I 

I 

takened a a notion to to to shine shine up up to. to. Her Her name name wasn't Ada Ada May 

May 

but but that's what what I'll I'll call call her her here. here. Since Since I I I didn't have have to 

to 

leave leave till till next next day day I I I suggested to to to this this lady lady that that a a moonlighlight 

ride ride on on the the lake lake would be be a a right right fitting way way for for to 

to 

to 

spend the the evening. 




lement, got 


he couldn't 



egan fransawgrass. 



with grass 


dark when 


. Finally a 

h his boat. Holland and Butterworth, who had sold land for R. J. 

st thing Bolles, to but had a falling out, bought from the Southern 

een pretty States Land and Timber Company all of Section 20, Township 


to be camp 



e were the 


rrett, Metwho 

was 


s and his 


ittle store, coast, arid subdivided the section into ten acre tracts. 

ed, "Shoronal 

trips On this job, while burning off the sawgrass, some of 

ar shorter the crew got surrounded by the raging fire and had to 

nal to Ft. swim the canal. That wasn't so bad, but a few days later, 

"Oh, "Oh, I'd I'd be be glad glad to to to go," go," she she said, said, "but "but my my folks folks wouldn't 

let let me me go go alone. Would it it it it be be alright if if if if my my friend Betty 

Betty 

comes along?" 

"Sure, and and tell tell Betty Betty to to to bring bring who who ever ever she she wants for 

for 

company." Good Good grief, grief, little little did did I I realize I what what I'd I'd said! 

said! 

I I I ate ate supper in in in the the hotel, hotel, then then sashayed over over to to to Ada 

Ada 

May's. She She was was ready, in in her her Sunday dress, complete with 

with 

shoes shoes and and stockings. As As we we approached the the boat boat I I exclaimeded, 

"Good gracious! Look Look at that that mob mob of of people at at at the 

the 

canal. Do Do you you reckon that that somebody has has got got drowned?" 

We We were were greeted with with joyous shouts, "Betty says says you 

you 

invited us us all all to to to go go to to to the the lake. lake. All All aboard for for a a moonlight 

ride!" 

Well, Well, I I I couldn't back back out out now, now, so so instead of of a a cozy 

cozy 

cruise with with Ada Ada May May and and Betty Betty I I I had had to to to carry carry half half the 

the 

blamed settlement and and in in in passing through the the Chosen 

locks locks we we picked up up a a few few more more there. 

The The night night was was clear, clear, the the lake lake was was smooth and and the the moon 

moon 

was was shining bright. Laughing, talking and and singing, the 

I the 




ROMANCE IN IN THE THE WOODS 115 

115 




to to come in in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them 

now! 


Okeechobee southward through the length of of the Everglades, 



But let's take a closer look at at what Democrat River was 

like in in those primeval days. The scribe of of this expedition 


never mentions those ancient mounds at at the river's fork. 


even noticed. 

Tow Tow boat boat "Leviathan" and and Bryan Bryan & & Holloway dredge. 

dredge. 

people crowded the the decks decks and and the the cabin cabin roof, roof, yet yet in in in spite 

spite 

of of it it it it being being so so fine fine a a night, some some couples seemed to to to prefer 

being being down down inside the the cabin. Now Now why why should they they want 

want 

to to to do do that, that, you you reckon? 


"On the 10th day of of November," he relates, "ere the 

first streaks of of dawn, every man in in camp was astir." The 



time "for poles will have to to be used for many miles to to come. 

The river has narrowed down to to a stream not more than 

five or six feet in in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight 


lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to to 

bar our progress, and to to all appearances when we approach 

these barriers it it seems as if if the end of of the water course 

has been reached, but with a few strokes of of the machetes, 

axes and hatchets our way is is cleared, and our journey is is 

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is is reached, 





has lost itself in in the dense swamp of of custard apples. Our 

compass is is now, and will be until the end of our voyage, 















We We cruised past past Torry Island and and half half way way past past Kreameer 

before I I turned I around. Somebody must must have have smuggled 

a a jug jug of of shine shine aboard and and now now some some of of those those young bucks 

were were beginning to to to show show its its effects. Allen Allen Greer wasn't 

much much of of a a hand hand for for drinking, but but now now he he was was in in the the notion 

to to to make make a a speech. Of Of course, this this was was long long before Belle 

Belle 

Glade Glade was was incorporated, but but he he decided to to get get political. 

Climbing onto onto the the cabin cabin top, top, he he waved his his arms arms and and de 

declaimed, 

"I'm "I'm a-going to to to run run for for office, folks. folks. I I want I want to to to be be mayor 

of of Belle Belle Glade. Now, Now, if if if if you you folks folks will will elect elect me me mayor of 

of 

Belle Belle Glade-" here here his his steam was was running low. low. Before 

collapsing on on the the deck deck he he weakly gurgled, "then "then I'll I'll be 

bemayor 

of of Belle Belle Glade!" and and he he passed out. 

out. 

And And so so so I I I got got the the whole menagerie back back to to the the settlement, 

all all right right smart happy and and mostly sober, but but that 

that 

was was one one moonlight ride ride that that didn't turn turn out out as as I I had I had plan 

plannedned. 

And And I I I never never saw saw that that girl girl again. 









than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft.

CHAPTER SEVEN 

CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT 

CHAPTER SIX 

Bean Pickers Never Sleep 

The Chosen Place 

Belle Glade's Wandering 

Post Office 

Although other vegetables were likewise raised, yet 

following the Big Freeze of 1927, most Glades farmers 


turned to raising string beans, for they matured in only 


55 days. For years we lived in a bean economy. When prices 

of Belle Glade, yet in another way it's not. While the first 

were good everybody was happy. Farmers bought new cars 


and bean pickers purchased used jallopies and cash regis 


ters jingled a merry tune. But let there come a general 

Chosen had an active promoter, and for a while it even 

frost or a torrential rain, then all business slowed to a 

seemed that Chosen might be the leading town. Believe me 

grinding halt. Farmers quit paying their store accounts 

brother, jealousy was keen. Yet now, Belle Glade is a 

and bean pickers took their bamboo poles and began fish 

fair sized city, while Chosen still is not incorporated. Those 

ing for their rations. 

folks sure as heck don't want to be city slickers. 

Everybody had a stake in beans. Most every merchant, 

store While clerk the or people carpenter down had the a canal share were in the doing crop about of some and 

farmer, getting organized, either white Hans or black. Stein, Most the bean original farms settler were at small, the 

lake yet market end of the reports canal showed was busily that tending the south to his eastern own affairs, 

shores 

of locking Lake boats Okeechobee through were from the the greatest lake with string one bean hand producing 

cleared section up of elder the nation. land with During the other, winter until before he became 

the 

Hurricane one of the big of 1928 farmers some on 1520 the shore. cars were Stein, shipped, originally but from 

the 

following Courland, season, the despite Baltic sea, the had storm, come there from were Wisconsin 2692. The to 

peak Manatee was where reached was in 1946 trying with to 4088 raise carloads celery, until of beans. Wagner 

while 

he 

persuaded Beans were him to quick try his and luck easy at to share raise, cropping but the harvesting on Kreamer 

required Island. a Moving heap of his laborers, family for by wagon beans, to Lakeport, be top quality, then 

by barge across the lake, he farmed on Kreamer in 1916 

It all began on the shores of Torry Island where Emmett 

McLaughlin had his fish camp on a creek which 

wound through the swamp on the island's south end. The 

islands and the newly exposed lake bottom between the 

Hillsboro canal and South Bay were attracting settlers, 

so, in 1916, Howard Stowe built a store across the creek 

from the fish camp and on March 31, 1917 he opened a 

post office there. However, the lake kept on going down. 

Boats couldn't get up the creek. So, since the canal was 

being extended from South Bay, armed with a permit from 

the War Department, Stowe dredged up an artificial island, 

bulkheaded round about, in the open lake at the junction 

of the channels leading to the Hillsboro and the Ft. Lauderdale 

canals. This was about half a mile from Torry and 

north of little Rabbit Island, not far from the present 

Hurricane Gate. At this location, sometimes called Rabbit 

Island or otherwise The Dump, he erected a story and a 

half store building and moved his store and post office. On 

a cold night in the fall of 1917 he celebrated by holding 

a dance, complete with fiddler and jugs of "custard apple 

dew". But the post office kept the name "Torry Island". 

188 

50 

55 

36 




persuaded him to try his luck at share cro 

er Island. Moving his family by wagon t 

by barge across the lake, he farmed on K 

BEAN PICKERS NEVER SLEEP 189 50 172 BE 


must be picked when they reach a certain stage. One day 

too early or too late affects the price. Although vines were 

usually picked over twice, yet when prices were high, they 

might be picked four, even five times. These last were of 

sorry quality, "dogs" the farmers called them, but there 

was a saying that the biggest money came from the sorriest 

beans. 

In the early days, pickers were paid 15 cents or 25 

cents a hamper, but for a long time the price was 60 to 70 

cents. A picker could average twelve to fourteen hampers 

a day, though a woman with a couple of young'uns could 

double that, and take home $15 to $20, a heap of money 

then. The Everglades News in March of 1929 says, "Negro 

women picking beans are making as much money as a 

union brick layer in a big city, $8 to $12 for less than 

eight hours." During the war years, when labor was scarce 

and independent, the Home of J. 

rate jumped to $1 and $1.10, yet even 

R. Leatherman at Chosen, 1927. 

that didn't prevent the sorry jigaboos from throwing in 

leaves until he and was vines, appointed and refusing to tend to the fill locks. the hampers. Here he It cleared 

was 

estimated elders from that lake during bottom that and war the 16,000 bed of workers Democrat were River 

employed 

where on they Glades had sprung farms, up of after which the three-fourths lake went down. were migrants, 

head high here elders only were for the pulled harvesting. by hand This and burned caused a then whop 

Th 

1 

not 

ping bothering increase to plow, in Belle he Glade's disced negro the land, population, using a 

which Ford car 

at 


Hog huntin 

one time outnumbered the whites here two or three to one. 

Frank O'C 

with The an negro Oliver population No. 3 plow. was He divided was one into of definite the first levels men 

of on social the lake classes, to own of which a Caterpillar, the first which in importance marked him and as respect 

were the physician, the lawyer, the undertaker, school 

With his boys Hans (Hamp), Fritz and Emil (Tony) 

particular ni 

capitalist for sure. 

would probab 

principals, ministers and all big property owners. Next 

would be nob 

were and daughter teachers, Eleese, foremen, he had store plenty owners of help, or operators, but after and the opened the d 

farmers. war he was Third one in of rank the first were to mechanics, use negroes tractor on his drivers farm. stomp and sh 

or They other weren't skilled hired workers. hands. Lowest They on were the sharecroppers, social scale were and got away fr 

the that migrant was a good laborers, deal and for both of course, parties. the The "fast white buck" farmer 

boys 

ditch or two 

and furnished girls, land, the bootleggers mule, seed and and gamblers equipment who and helped then took 

the 

laborers half of the get crop shut of - their if any. earnings. Now to be sure, those lake Sometime 

farmers at first didn't own their land. They squatted Jackson, fro 

where they pleased, clearing a few acres here and there brought dow 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying right pleasur 


So now I'd like to take you to the bean fields of twenty 

or thirty years ago. Let's watch those bean pickers at work. 

But first I want to emphasize, and please don't forget, 

GLADE CREST 

down with a machete, unless you were 

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with

farmers at first didn't own their land. They squatted persuaded him to try his luck at share cro 


Island. Moving his family by wagon t 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying by barge across the lake, he farmed on K 


28 28 50 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 


try his luck at share cropping on Kreamhis 

family by wagon to Lakeport, then 

he lake, he farmed on Kreamer in 1916 

190 

190 

BELLE 

BELLE GLADE GLADE 

FROM FROM 

SW SW 

AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

part of of this stream was dredged out out some five years later 

to to become a a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now forms 

part of of the the Miami canal. As As this stream was typical of of the the 

lake's dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's see see what 

it it was like. 

"The river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, the the 

depth of of water being about eight feet. To To say say that our our 

little party was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We 

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear exclamations 

from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful 


perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The water is is 

clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with a a dense tropical 

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view a a solid green wall, 

impenetrable to to the the eye. This wall is is formed by by vines, 

which have twined around the the trunks and branches of of the the 


each other until they form a a screen which is is almost sufficient 

to to shut out out the the light of of day. Looking behind us us we we 

find that we we are are followed by by innumerable alligators, who 

are are swimming lazily along in in our our wake. From all all sides we we 

see see them plunging in in the the water, remain under for for a a few 

seconds, rise after we we have passed and join the the crowd behind 

us. us. We We do do not not go go two miles before the the river begins 

to to get get narrow, and we we find ourselves in in a a little stream only 

a a few yards in in width, the the sunlight completely shut out out by by 

be 

the the branches of of trees and vines, which have interlocked 

and twined around each other until a a perfect roof is is formed 

... After going half a a mile, we we find we we are are no no longer in in 

ed 

a a stream, but but winding around in in dark, sluggish water, the the 

roots and branches of of the the trees forming a a barrier to to our our 

further progress ... As As we we return we we examine more closely 

the the vines which grow so so luxuriantly, and find that they are are 

a a species of of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from 

them, perfectly round, and about the the size of of a a billiard ball. 

The vines run all all over the the trees, and on on the the ground form 

a a mat two or or three feet deep." 

Bean pickers at work. 

Bean pickers at work. 

things 

things have have 

changed changed a 

heap heap 

since since 

then. then. 

All All 

farm farm 

laborers 

laborers 

now 

now go go 

to to 

work work 

in in 

busses busses 

which which 

are are 

not not 

allowed allowed 

to to 

leave 

leave 

before 

before seven seven 

o'clock o'clock 

in in 

the the 

morning. morning. 

Most Most 

migrant migrant 

work 

workerers 

now now 

live live 

in in 

two two 

or or 

three three 

story story 

cement cement 

block block 

buildings 

buildings 

with 

with running running 

water water 

in in 

each each 

apartment. apartment. 

Labor Labor 

camps camps 

and 

and 

apartment 

apartment houses houses 

are are 

inspected inspected 

by by 

county county 

and and 

fed fed ral 

health inspectors. All migrants are allowed free medical ral 

health inspectors. All migrants are allowed free medical 

and 

and dental dental 

work, work, 

and and 

their their 

children children 

all all 

go go 

to to 

school, school, 

even 

even 

having 

having special special 

teachers, teachers, 

and and 

the the 

little little 

ones ones 

have have 

nursery 

nursery 

schools. 

schools. Yes, Yes, 

conditions conditions 

have have 

changed changed a 

right right smart smart 

in 

in 

recent 

recent years. 

years. 

But 

But now, just for the heck of it, let's venture down to 

now, just for the heck of it, let's venture down to 

colored 

colored town in those days when we lived in bean econ 

town in those days when we lived in a bean economyomy. 

Long 

Long before day of this dark winter morning, the 

before day of this dark winter morning, the 

farmer 

farmer in his high laced boots and wide brimmed hat, has 

in his high laced boots and wide brimmed hat, has 

BEAN PICKERS NEVER SLEEP 191 


already 

already emerged emerged 

from from 

his his 

home, home, 

or or 

maybe maybe 

from from 

his his 

hotel 

hotel 

room 

room (for (for 

many many 

are are 

here here 

only only 

for for 

the the 

season), season), 

climbed 

climbed 

into 

into his his 

pickup pickup 

truck truck 

and and 

has has 

driven driven 

to to 

5th 5th 

Street. Street. 

His 

His 

truck 

truck driver driver 

is is 

probably probably 

already already 

waiting. waiting. 

On On 

each each 

side side 

of 

of 

the 

the street street 

and and 

its its 

adjoining adjoining 

corners, corners, 

high, high, 

slat-sided slat-sided 

field 

field 

trucks 

trucks line line 

the the 

streets. 

streets. 

From 

From upstairs upstairs 

of of 

frame frame 

apartment apartment 

houses, houses, 

from from 

every 

every 

street 

street and and 

alley, alley, 

dusky dusky 

figures figures 

emerge emerge 

and and 

mi11 mi11 

about about 

in in 

the 

the 

dark 

dark street, street, 

men men 

in in 

mucky mucky 

work work 

clothes, clothes, 

some some 

in in 

rubber 

rubber 

boots, 

boots, a 

few few 

clutching clutching a 

pair pair 

of of 

leather leather 

knee knee 

pads, pads, 

women 

women 

in 

in their their 

invariable invariable 

costume costume 

of of 

an an 

old old 

flowered flowered 

dress dress 

and 

and 

long 

long sleeved sleeved 

blouse, blouse, 

worn worn 

over over 

trousers trousers 

well well 

tied tied 

at at 

the 

the 

ankles 

ankles to to 

keep keep 

out out 

the the 

itching itching 

muck muck 

dust. dust. 

Their Their 

bandan 

bandannaenaed 

heads heads 

are are 

crowned crowned 

by by a 

man's man's 

felt felt 

or or a 

wide wide 

straw 

straw 

hat 

hat tied tied 

beneath beneath 

the the 

chin. 

chin. 

Silent 

Silent at at 

first, first, 

the the 

mob mob 

soon soon 

comes comes 

to to 

life, life, 

and and 

such such a 

bedlam 

bedlam of of 

jabbering jabbering 

and and 

laughing laughing 

you'd you'd 

scarcely scarcely 

ever ever 

see. 

see. 

Men 

Men wander wander 

about, about, 

looking looking 

over over 

the the 

trucks. trucks. 

Buxom Buxom 

wench 

wenchees 

gossip gossip 

and and 

giggle giggle 

shrilly. shrilly. 

Here Here a 

white white 

headed headed 

patriarch 

patriarch 

watches 

watches in in 

silent silent 

dignity, dignity, 

while while 

over over 

yonder yonder 

an an 

exuberant 

exuberant 

young 

young buck buck 

in in a 

striped striped 

jacket, jacket, 

prances, prances, 

gestures gestures 

and and 

ges 

gesticulateticulates 

from from 

the the 

pure pure 

old old 

joy joy 

of of 

living. living. 

The The 

sandwich sandwich 

man 

man 

with 

with his his 

tray, tray, 

and and 

the the 

peanut peanut 

man man 

with with 

his his 

paper paper 

sacks 

sacks 

("PeeNUTS 

("PeeNUTS ! 

Boiled and parched! Gittem while they're 

Boiled and parched! Gittem while they're 

hot!") 

hot!") circulate through the gathering crowd. The noise 

circulate through the gathering crowd. The noise 

abates 

abates only when some farmer (or contractor in later days) 

only when some farmer (or contractor in later days) 

beside 

beside his truck, raises his voice in hoarse shout, 

his truck, raises his voice in a hoarse shout, 

"First 

"First picking! Bountifuls Good stand! Fifty cents!" 

picking! Bountifuls ! Good stand! Fifty cents!" 

If 

If this sounds like favorable offer, and if the pickers 

this sounds like a favorable offer, and if the pickers 

know 

know that the beans are good, that there are no sticker 

that the beans are good, that there are no sticker 

weeds 

weeds in the rows and the foreman is not too mean (they 

in the rows and the foreman is not too mean (they 

always 

always seem to know, don't ask me how) few men and 

seem to know, don't ask me how) a few men and 

women 

women grudgingly drift towards his truck. Nobody, of 

grudgingly drift towards his truck. Nobody, of 

course, 

course, is ever in hurry to climb on. 

is ever in a hurry to climb on. 

Another 

Another farmer offers, "Tendergreens, second picking, 

farmer offers, "Tendergreens, second picking, 

good 

good yield! Sixty cents!" 

yield! Sixty cents!" 

When I I first came to to this lake these gourds still were 

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they then 

were less luxuriant than the the moon vine, a a kind of of morning 

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops and the the exposed 


dusk at at mid day. 

ex 

After cruising the the south shore for. nine days the the party 

arrived, near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, at at the the 

largest and longest of of all all these rivers. This they christened 

T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this 

stream to to its its end, they laid a a course south by by the the compass 

for for Shark River, ninety miles away by by air air line. Although 

water had evidently been five feet over the the land not not too too 

ed 

long before, they found that it it now was a a scant five inches, 

and under that was fifteen feet, more or or less, of of soft mud. 

So So now they are are compelled to to battle the the sharp-edged 

sawgrass, which they had believed to to be be only ten ten miles in in 

extent, but but which actually persisted clear to to the the headwaters 

of of Shark River. At At times they were able to to burn the the sawgrass, 

but but usually the the way must be be hacked with machetes. 

For many days they were compelled to to push and lift lift their 

boats every foot of of the the way, often making only a a few hundred 

yards in in a a day. On On November 17th, a a week after leaving 

the the lake, a a tall tall cypress at at Democrat River was still 

visible to to the the naked eye. 

ing Constantly they were plagued by by innumerable snakes, 


tortured by by mosquitoes, leeches and poisonous wampee 

plants "which produce a a terrible burning sensation. Its Its 

appearance is is similar to to the the water lily, the the leaf being from 

six six to to twelve inches across, the the root running to to a a depth 

of of six six inches, and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We 

had the the curiosity to to taste it. it. We We shall do do so so no no more!" 

Yes, I I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee 

was a a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it it twice! 

Indian turnip it's it's called up up north. It's It's tuber looks like a a



36 


part That's That's of this more more stream money, money, was to to 

to dredged be be sure, but very few drift toward 

to become him, him, since since a part first first of pickings the pickings Thirteen are pref erred. By this time 

sure, out but some very five few years drift toward 

later 

are pref 

Mile erred. 

Canal By 

which this 

Disston 

time 

other other had growers intended growers and to and continue foremen foremen on have to have Shark added added River. their their It cries, now cries, forms 

but 

but 

this this part morning morning of the Miami the the pickers pickers canal. seem As seem this to to 

to stream be be hanging hanging was typical back. back. Two of Two the 

or or lake's three three dead trucks trucks rivers, get get loaded, 

including loaded, the the the young young Democrat, and and agile agile let's vaulting 

vaulting see what 

to to 

to it the was the truck's like. truck's deck, deck, while while older older ones ones are are hauled hauled up, up, or 

or 

ascend ascend by a With 30, 40 or 50 jammed 

like and with some be 

"The by a river rickety at ladder. its mouth With is 30, about 40 or 100 50 yards pickers wide, jammed 

the 

depth like of sardines, water being and with about some eight young'uns feet. To peering say that betweetween 

the these a great little the party sideboards, was overjoyed these trucks, would amidst but poorly a great express whining it. We 

of of 

our 

of and and of 

of roar 

do gears, not go and one laughing hundred and yards cackling before of we passengers, hear exclamations 

roar 

off off 

in 

in a cloud 

of 

of dust. 

from in a the cloud members of dust. of the party in praise of the beautiful 

scenery The The remaining remaining which greets trucks trucks the are are eye empty, empty, on every so so 

so the the side. farmers farmers There now 

is now 

must must perceptible use use their their current heads. heads. so If If 

far If the the as pickers 

we pickers can can 

discern. can just just The be be got 

water got to to 

to is 

clear as the crystal, the will banks be much fringed with And a dense now tropical 

laughing the loading will be much easier. And now a a good 

good 

example example growth is is 

of is coming trees, coming presenting up. up. One One negro, negro, to the very view very drunk, a drunk, solid stumbling 

green stumbling wall, 

and impenetrable to the eye. This wall a is formed After by vines, 

and stammering, lurches towards a truck. After several 

weak which tries, have he twined around a the trunks sack and 

of 

of branches of the 

weak tries, he heaves a croker sack of oranges aboard 

while trees, the and have looks interlaced on and wound He themselves around 

while the crowd looks on intently. He finally manages to to 

to 

climb each other until they form a only screen to 

to which fall, is almost and sufficient 

to shut on out his the sack light of 

climb the makeshift ladder, only to fall, sprawled and 

of of day. Looking The behind roars us its we 

spread-eagled on his sack of oranges. The crowd roars its 

find that we The are followed by innumerable his alligators, and right who 

appreciation. The foreman resumes his chant, and right 

soon are swimming the truck lazily 

is 

is filled along and in gone. our wake. From all sides we 

soon the truck is filled and gone. 


Since ever to 

to be the first the 

seconds, Since nobody rise after ever we wants have passed to be the and first join the aboard, crowd the be 

farmer farmer often gets a of 

of his to 

to be the 

hind us. often We gets do not a couple go two of his miles regular before hands the river to be begins the 

first. One too to 

to pick gets her wine 

first. to get One narrow, woman, and too we shiftless find ourselves to pick beans, in a little gets stream her wine only 

by on an act. Some may slip her a 

money a few by yards putting width, on an the act. sunlight Some farmer completely may slip shut her out a by 

quarter quarter or two, then gaily she the 

the branches or two, then of trees laughing and gaily vines, she which pushes have through interlocked the 

crowd. crowd. With a great show of 

of and singing, 

and twined With a around great show each other of laughing, until a perfect shouting roof and is singing, 

formed 

she ... she climbs After climbs 

going aboard, aboard, 

half while while 

a mile, others, others, 

we find like like 

we a a flock are 

flock 

no of of 

of 

longer sheep, 

sheep, 

in 

soon soon pack the a stream, pack the but truck. winding around in dark, sluggish water, the 

roots Now and that's branches fine to 

to of be the sure, trees but forming right a barrier to our 

Now that's fine to be sure, but right alongside there's 

further truck progress ... As a we soul return we The examine more closely 

another truck without a soul aboard. The owner, whispers 

to 

to the his vines which grow so who luxuriantly, also and find that the they loaded 

a species truck. of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from 

are 

to his driver's helper who also clambers aboard the loaded 

truck. 

them, perfectly round, and "Who is 

is y'all for?" 

about the he size of a billiard ball. 

The "Who vines is y'all run all pickin' over for?" the trees, he innocently and on the enquires. ground form 

a mat two or Joe three "Mistuh Joe Johnson," feet deep." 

someone someone answers. 

answers. 


























either! 










as the frost. 




BEAN BEAN DEMOCRAT PICKERS PICKERS RIVER NEVER NEVER SLEEP SLEEP 193 

3029 

B 

193 


The The has a fit. He goes hog wild! 

When stooge I first immediately came to has this a lake fit. He these goes gourds hog wild! still were 

big and deli 

plentiful in Joe the custard apple No, no, forest, not dat although Joe they Johnson! 

were Let less me luxuriant git off'n than dis the moon Let vine, me git a kind out of 

then 

dred firecrac 

"Mistuh Joe Johnson? No, no, not dat Mistuh Joe John 

of of morning I decided to 

son! Let me git off'n dis truck! Let me git out of HERE!" 

glory, which completely blanketed the tops and the 

ing 

exposed 

In a flanks flash of that the truck custard is 

one in se 

is apple woods, and so making so it 

it a shadowy 

the er showed, I 

In a flash that truck is emptied, and so it remains the 

rest dusk of 

of that mid day. day. 

few seconds 

rest of that day. 

and the sens 

Over Over After yonder yonder cruising is a the a stranger's stranger's south shore truck. truck. for. Maybe Maybe nine days he he has has the only 

party only 

wampee juic 

four four arrived, or or five five near acres, acres, the or southernmost or maybe maybe he's he's point from from on Pahokee Pahokee the lake, or or Lake at Lake 

numerable the t 

Harbor, Harbor, largest anyway and anyway longest nobody nobody of all seems seems these to to 

to rivers. want want This to to 

to pick pick they for for christen 

him, 

him, 

know that's 

yet yet ed his T-D, his little little or patch Times-Democrat patch is is 

is as as important important River. to to 

to After him him as traversing as some some other 

other this strangely en 

man's man's stream 100 100 to acres, its acres, end, so so 

so they decides decides laid a to course to 

to raise raise south the the bid. 

bid. by the compass unbelievably 


"Good best you ever saw, and yours and squeal i 

for 

water "Good had Bountifuls, evidently best cents a 

been you five ever feet saw, over and the they're land yours not the too jackdaw 

for long fifty-five before, cents they found a hamper!" that it now was a scant five inches, sawgrass roo 

and The The under remaining remaining that was trucks trucks fifteen disgorge disgorge feet, more their their or loads loads less, and of and soft his his begingins 

to to 

mud. 

be 

bills toward 

to fill. But most near the they 

have 

So fill. left, 

now But they most news 

are pickers compelled linger may soon 

to near be 

battle the the trucks Sure 

sharp-edged they As the p 

have sawgrass, left, better which news they may had soon believed coming. to be only Sure ten enough, miles also in to have 

the the raise the bid and 

soon 

extent, remaining all 

but which truckers are 

actually raise persisted the bid for the clear another to are 

the nickel in 

in 

headwaters and "All arou 

soon a tight. 

Win 

of Shark all trucks or lose, 

River. are those 

At filled, beans 

times for must 

they the were farmers be able are to burn in a the tight. 

So now 

sawgrass, 

or lose, but have 

by any sound 

Win the 

usually those beans left, 

the the 

way must must be be picked and 

hacked today. with So men 

machetes. now ing of a frog 

the move 

off, 

For trucks and 

many have the 

days left, 30 or 

they the 40 were sandwich compelled and to peanut push who 

and men have 

lift move 

jobs 

their gator would 

off, in 

in 

town, 

boats and or 

every the 30 who 

foot or 40 just 

of negroes don't 

the way, remaining, feel 

often like 

making who only have a jobs few hundred 

or yards who away. 

in sion we cann 

town, in just a day. don't On feel November like working 17th, a week today, after slowly leaving 

the away. lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still what deeper. 

As they p 

straggle 

visible And And that's to that's the the naked the way way eye. 

it it 

it is is 

is when when beans beans are are plenty, plenty, but 

but boats could 

it's it's a a when the beans are and 

that's 

Constantly different picture for sure. 

they were when the 

plagued the beans by may 

innumerable are scarce, offer no 

snakes, and half. On the 

that's more 

than 

though for 30 or 

fortunately, sure. Although 40 his 

nobody the farmer truck 

was will soon 

bitten. may offer be But no they more about five fe 

were 

than • 

• ing 

tortured 30 40 by cents, jam 

mosquitoes, his truck it 

it to 

to the last 

leeches will soon and be inch. 

poisonous loaded. Jabber- some five ac 

Men are 

wampee 

• ing ed 

plants pickers on the 

"which jam it produce to the last a terrible crowded the 

burning inch. Men hood and 

sensation. are perched 

and more pl 

ing 

islands were 

even hang 

Its 

appearance on the fenders, to 

to the 

is similar sprawled to from 

the across water the lily, hood the and This 

leaf even being hanging 

has and on Dece 

six to to the twelve sideboards floor inches across, from outside. 

the 

from 

the tires 

root until 

running This weight the truck 

to a can't 

depth has 

pressed 

then were i 

move 

of six floor an 

inches, boards inch. The 

and against resembles the a tires shallot until then, 

in the with 

appearance. truck can't 

a stout piece 

We 

move 

mouth at th 

of 

of 

had an the inch. curiosity The driver's to taste helper and 

it. We then, shall with the do so a no stout more!" piece 

of board, circles round and round the truck, banging and 

and schooner wh 

framming framming Yes, I 

on on know the the stowaways blamed stowaways well until until they they they didn't! reluctantly reluctantly That wampee 

drop 

drop civilization. 

off, was and a so 

hellish so the plant, can nobody turn, would the ever taste and it twice! jeers taken 27 day 

off, and so the wheels can turn, amids the laughs and jeers 

of of 

of Indian those those already turnip already it's safely safely called inside. 

inside. up north. It's tuber looks like in a Shark Riv 












' Glade Cres 

Everglades, n 

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing to contend wi 

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had the very same 

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black the land, but 

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet that sawgrass 



we had could 

The land s 


sawgrass, the 

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and Mrs. Daniel h 



ily of four cou 

crops could b 

analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That and backed i 


never been k 


And gee whiz 


either! 

Yet in spite of all, there were some vegetables raised. That first 

'l'he Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel of June 19, 1914 states that were fifteen 

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes 5th. Farmers 

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the piles of sawg 

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper so some plan 

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr. froze. Anywa 

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. sawgrass It pile 

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five muck. This w 


and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers aging as the 

but the cover 

of beans and a few batches of carrots and turnips. Our Since the 


this had to b 

' 

36 

BEL 

Lauderdale, ye 

miles from tow 

to navigate, al 

over a rutted s 

field. But goo 

railroad, you 

of 1915 there 

camped at Gl 

ever lived ther 

their troubles.

Now all this is transpiring, you'll remember, in the unlighted 

streets long before day on this winter morning, yet 

beans are never picked before the often reluctant sun has 

dried off all the dew, and this may be nine or ten, or even 

later. And so you ask, what's the big rush to load? Well 

I reckon Now you've all this already is transpiring, figured out you'll the remember, answer. The in farmer the un 

wants lighted to streets get his long crew before loaded day before on this some winter bidding morning, might 

yet 

start. beans weather Although are almost never farmers impassible. picked before used Except to the solemnly often for the reluctant agree highways, on sun a there cer 

has 

tain dried are price, no off rock all there roads, often dew, so and would often this be the may somebody field be nine truck in or a hauls ten, tight or who'd only even a 

raise later. partial the And load bid. so to you In the later ask, highway. what's years Here the police big they rush are took to re-loaded charge load? Well and onto 

allowed I another reckon no you've truck trucks for already town. leave figured Sometimes until out their a tractor siren answer. blew pulls The at the farmer seven field 

o'clock, wants truck. to If but it's get before really his crew that, bad, loaded it those may before trucks pull a sled. some would Repairing bidding start leaving 

might axles, 

at start. transmissions six or Although even five. and farmers clutches It was used a keeps rat to solemnly race the repair and agree a shops circus, on busy. 

a to certain 

After price, there pickers often would have finished be somebody and gone, in a tight there who'd 

be 

sure. 

may 

raise still be the rows bid. of In filled later hampers, years the maybe police four took deep charge and 1000 and 

allowed 

And so 

feet long, no 

the 

waiting trucks 

trucks to be leave 

would 

hauled until 

leave 

in their 

directly 

after siren 

for 

dark. blew 

their 

For at 

fields, 

example, 

seven 

a o'clock, 

mile or 

one day but 

maybe 

during before 

ten 

the that, 

miles 

war those 

away. 

years trucks 

Always 

when would 

though, 

pickers start 

there'd 

were leaving 

be 

some scarce 

at and six 

which 

independent, or even 

would five. 

need 

the It pickers was 

some a 

tire rat had race 

repairs. 

worked and 

During 

until a circus, 

the 

dusk to 

depression 

dark. 

be 

sure. 

years tires were always run until worn into the 

fabric, Toters so had tire carried trouble hampers, was routine. and wired The trucks on the might lids have until 

been their And hauling hands so the 

were beans trucks 

getting from would the sore, leave field so directly until they midnight all for 

left with their or fields, later, the 

and a 

pickers. mile anyway, or 

There maybe there still ten was were 

miles no half away. hurry a dozen 

Always about batches getting though, 

of pickers there'd 

hampers, 

to be 

the some 

each field. a 

which 

couple The would main of hundred need thing some was feet to tire 

long get repairs. 

and the six crew. During 

to When ten hampers 

the I was 

de 

living pression 

deep. over The years my contractor, service tires were station, his always 

foreman my run family and until 

his used worn 

truck to be into 

drivers wak 

the 

ened fabric, 

headed, every so 

loaded tire morning trouble 

and hauled by was the routine. jabbering them all The 

to of the 

trucks one, packing two, might or house, 

even have 

three been 

finishing hauling loads at of 2 beans 

A.M. hilarious The 

from 

drivers pickers, the field 

caught their until 

naps heads midnight 

in nearly their or 

trucks 

later, even 

with and 

while anyway, the the window packing there sills, house 

was as no my crews hurry men unloaded, about worked getting on for the they pickers tires. had to 

to 

the 

be at field. 

the The 

loading main 

zone thing 

before was to 

six. 

get the crew. When I was 

At the bean field the pickers string out along the ends 

living Field over workers my service all were station, negroes, my family but the used packing to be house 

wakened 

crews, every except morning for a short by the time jabbering war of years, one, two, were or white. 

even 

of rows, resting, eating, or huddled by little fires which invariably 

ignited the muck, but that is no concern of theirs. 

three Most loads of them of hilarious lived in the pickers, government their heads migratory nearly labor 

even 

At the foreman's signal they start down the rows, kneeling 

camp with the nearby. window Women, sills, from as my young men girls worked to grandmas, on the tires. graded 

the beans on moving belts, while men moved the 

in the soft and itching muck, with both hands expertly 

plucking 

finished 

At the mature bean field beans, the filling pickers a hamper string out as they along go. the When 

ends 

hampers to waiting refrigerated trucks or railroad cars. 

it of is rows, filled, resting, the toter, eating, after or huddled shaking by little down, fires presents which invariably 

and ignited then carries the muck, the but hamper that to is no the concern row's end. of theirs. Some 

a 

Although they never began work till noon, they worked 

ticket, 

until the last beans arrived, far into the night. Since pack 

of At these foreman's tickets may signal be traded they start at the down sandwich the rows, wagon kneeling for 

ing houses had no walls, that northwest wind on a win 

a in bottle the soft cold and drink itching or muck, a sandwich. with both The hands remainder expertly are 

ter's night could get most ungodly cold. 

cashed plucking in mature some beans, certain filling store a in hamper town. 

as they go. When 

it is But filled, how the about toter, those after bean shaking pickers, it after down, they presents return 

a 

to ticket, town? and They then jam carries the the dim hamper streets to of the the row's negro end. section, 

Some 

reluctant of these tickets to crawl may into be the traded cubby at holes the sandwich which contain wagon their 

for 

bed a bottle and suitcase. of cold drink In the or street a sandwich. the crowd The drifts remainder about, some 

are 

cashed in at some certain store in town. 

36 





Soon trucks begin to haul filled hampers to the packing 

house near the depot in town, if they can make it, for 


field roads at the very best are soft and rutted in wet 

























either! 










as the frost. 




























silent with fatigue ( or wine), others are laughing, flirting, 

hugging or squabbling, for as the negro author, Zora Hurston, 

said of these bean pickers, they "work all day for 

money and fight all night for love". At street corners some 

huddle around fires in trash barrels for a modicum of 

' 

persuaded him to try his luck at share cro 

196 BELLE GLADE FROM er Island. SW AMP Moving TO SUGAR his family BOWL by wagon 

by barge across the lake, he farmed on 

silent 196 with BELLE fatigue GLADE ( or wine), FROM others SW AMP are laughing, TO SUGAR flirting, BOWL 


said with of fatigue these ( bean or wine), pickers, others they are "work laughing, all flirting, day for 

50 

silent 

hugging money and or fight squabbling, all night for for as love". the negro At street author, corners Zora Hurston, 

said around of these fires bean in trash pickers, barrels they for "work a modicum all day for of 

some 

huddle 

money warmth. and Lunch fight rooms, all night pool for halls love". and At jook street joints corners are some jammed. 

huddle Dark around figures fires sip in wine trash at barrels the for in front, a modicum tables of in 

warmth. the rear are Lunch well rooms, occupied pool by halls card and players jook joints at their are games jammed. 

of "skin" Dark and figures the piano sip wine bangs at the loudly bar for in front, a few tables dancing 

couples, the rear and are everybody well occupied is having by card fun, players I reckon. at their games 

of "skin" and the piano bangs loudly for a few dancing 

Long after midnight the mob begins to drift away, 

couples, and everybody is having fun, I reckon. 

some to their dingy rooms, others, after waiting until the 

places Long close, after stretch midnight out the on benches mob begins and to floors drift in away, pool 

rooms some to and their jooks. dingy One rooms, time others, I remonstrated after waiting with until a labor the 

contractor, places close, himself stretch a out negro, on benches that the and jook floors joints in should pool 

rooms close earlier and jooks. so those One poor time bean I remonstrated pickers could with get a labor more 

sleep, contractor, but he himself replied, a negro, that the jook joints should 

close earlier so those poor bean pickers could get more 

"Mistuh Will, dese nigguhs picks beans all day, and 

sleep, but he replied, 

dey jooks all night. Dey don't neveh git no sleep. De best 

bean "Mistuh pickers Will, in Belle dese Glade nigguhs don't picks never beans sleep from all day, N ovember 

until jooks May!" all night. Dey don't neveh git no sleep. De best 

and 

dey 

bean And pickers I reckon in Belle he was Glade telling don't the never stomped sleep down from truth! N ovember 

until May!" 





weather almost impassible. Except for the highways, there 

are no rock roads, so often the field truck hauls only a 

partial load to the highway. Here they are re-loaded onto 

another truck for town. Sometimes a tractor pulls the field 

truck. If it's really bad, it may pull a sled. Repairing axles, 

transmissions weather almost and impassible. clutches keeps Except the for repair the highways, shops busy. 

there 

are 

After no rock 

the roads, 

pickers so 

have often 

finished the field 

and truck 

gone, hauls 

there only 

may 

a 

still partial load to the highway. Here they are re-loaded onto 

be rows of filled hampers, maybe four deep and 1000 

another truck for town. Sometimes a tractor pulls the field 

feet long, waiting to be hauled in after dark. For example, 

truck. If it's really bad, it may pull a sled. Repairing axles, 

one day during the war years when pickers were scarce 

transmissions and clutches keeps the repair shops busy. 

and independent, the pickers had worked until dusk dark. 

Toters After had the carried pickers hampers, have finished and wired and gone, the there lids until 

may 

their still be hands rows were of filled getting hampers, sore, maybe so they four all deep left with and 1000 the 

pickers. feet long, There waiting still to were be hauled half a in dozen after batches dark. For of hampers, 

example, 

each one day a couple during of hundred the war feet years long when and pickers six to ten were hampers 

scarce 

deep. and independent, The contractor, the pickers his foreman had worked and his until truck dusk drivers 

dark. 

headed, Toters had loaded carried and hauled hampers, them and all wired to the on packing the lids house, 

until 

finishing their hands at 2 were A.M. getting The drivers sore, caught so they naps all in left their with trucks 

the 

while pickers. the There packing still house were crews half a unloaded, dozen batches for they of hampers, had to 

be each at a the couple loading of hundred zone before feet six. long and six to ten hampers 

deep. 

Field The 

workers contractor, 

all were his negroes, 

foreman but 

and 

the his 

packing truck drivers 

house 

headed, loaded and hauled crews, except for a short time 

them 

in 

all 

war 

to 

years, 

the packing house, 

were white. 

Most 

finishing 

of them at 2 A.M. 

lived The 

in drivers 

the government caught naps 

migratory in their trucks 

labor 

camp while 

nearby. the packing 

Women, house 

from crews unloaded, young girls to grandmas, 

for they had 

graded 

the beans on moving belts, while men moved the finished 

to 

be at the loading zone before six. 

hampers Field to workers waiting all refrigerated were negroes, trucks but the or railroad packing house cars. 

Although crews, except they for never a short began time work in war till noon, years, they were worked 

white. 

until Most the of last them beans lived arrived, in the far government into the night. migratory Since pack 

labor 

ing camp houses nearby. had Women, no walls, from that young northwest girls to wind grandmas, on a graded 

the night beans could on moving get most belts, ungodly while men cold. 

moved the finished 

hampers to waiting refrigerated trucks or railroad cars. 

winter's 

But how about those bean pickers, after they return 

Although they never began work till noon, they worked 

to town? They jam the dim streets of the negro section, 

reluctant until the to 

last 

crawl beans 

into arrived, 

the far into the cubby holes which 

night. 

contain 

Since 

their 

packing 

bed and houses 

suitcase. had no 

In walls, 

the street that 

the northwest 

crowd drifts wind 

about, on a 

some 

winter's 

night could get most ungodly cold. 


















' Glade Cres 

Everglades, ne 

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing to contend wi 


to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black the land, but i 



sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes, The land s 

we had could 

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's sawgrass, then 

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and Mrs. Daniel h 


had insisted that this would not be necessary, since crops could be 


analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That and backed i 


never been k 


And gee whiz, 


either! 





r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper so some plan 


Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. It sawgrass pile 

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five muck. This w 


and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers aging as the 

but the cover 



this had to b 














And I reckon he was telling the stomped down truth! 










But how about those bean pickers, after they return 

to town? They jam the dim streets of the negro section, 

reluctant to crawl into the cubby holes which contain their 

bed and suitcase. In the street the crowd drifts about, some 

CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE 

' 

'' 

' 

36 

BEL 



to navigate, al 


field. But goo 

railroad, you s 

of 1915 there a 

camped at Gl 


their troubles.

CHAPTER NINETEEN 

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN 

Politics in the Swamps 

Hurricane of '28 

Trying to out figure the workings of politics is about 

like when you're in the piney woods fishing with a hooked 

wire in a gopher hole. (A gopher is a dry land turtle, in 

case some of you pink-eared Yankees may not know. He's 

right good eating, too, if you can't find nothing better.) 

So you're fishing in that gopher hole, but you never know 

whether you'll pull out a tasty gopher, or a pesky rattlesnake. 

Politics can work that way in Okeechobee's swamps 

as well as under the capitol dome. So if'n you want to 

learn what a well organized minority can do, you'll be right 

smart amused when I tell you how Belle Glade got incorporated. 

I was right there in the church house and I saw 

it all happen, yet like the rest of the crowd, I was just 

as blind as a hooty owl at high noon, as to what was a-going 

on. Politics can move in a mysterious way, its blunders to 

perform, but as it happened, this worked out O.K. in the 

end. 

Belle Glade was incorporated April 9, 1928, when the 

whole population hereabouts, I reckon, white and colored, 

couldn't have been more than two or three hundred. Of 

course, by this time we had a rock road to West Palm 

Beach, and the railroad had just arrived, yet only one year 

Life in these Everglades wasn't easy in those early 

days, what with floods, freezes, muck fires, mosquitoes and 

thieving buyers in New York. These things could be right 

unpleasant, but they were not calamities. But we did have 

one calamity. Oh brother! And that one was a humdinger! 

It like to have wiped Belle Glade, Chosen and South Bay 

off the map, and killed nearabout 2000 people. I'm speaking 

of that Big Storm of September 16, 1928. Y'all have 

heard tell of hurricanes and you've heard of tidal waves, 

and you know blamed well that they are no trifling matters. 

We were hit by the dead center of this hurricane, and 

we had a right good imitation of a tidal wave as well. 

Water surged seven feet deep in the streets of Belle Glade 

in the black darkness of that September night. 

The books tell us of a hurricane in 1900 which drowned 

five or six thousand in the island city of Galveston, and 

you can read of the 2200 who died when a mountain dam 

broke at Johnstown, Pennsylvania. Well, for loss of life 

in a peace-time disaster our hurricane ranks right next 

to them. More died here that night then even in the sinkings 

of the Titanic or the Lusitania. I was right spang in 

126 

36 36 

119 


Lauderdale, yet it it wasn't very popular. The locks were six 


HURRICANE OF '28 127 

Belle Glade's business district after the storm. 

the midst of this hurricane, so I'm a-fixing for to tell you 

what that catastrophe was like. 

Now as you'll admit, a 150 mile wind is quite a breeze, 

and can do a right smart of damage, yet it wasn't the wind, 

it was the water which killed so many people here, water 

piled high against that flimsy lakeshore levee. Now, this 

levee had been built along the lake's south shore so that 

wind tides couldn't drown out the farmers' crops. It was 

never intended to withstand a hurricane, but then, no 

hurricane had struck this lake since 1910 and maybe never 

would again, so what the heck! This dike extended from 

Bacorn Point along the south shore to beyond Moore Haven. 

It was only six to eight feet high and was made of muck, 

in places, of sand, whatever the land there happened to be. 

Of course, the "Miami hurricane" in 1926 had broken the 

dike, and like to have washed Moore Haven away, but 

maybe nothing like that would happen again, so the dike 

was patched up and people went on about their business. 

GLADE CREST 

down with a a machete, unless you were 

get the cussed grass to to burn. Then, with 

hoe, th 

36 

BEL 

172 BE 



to navigate, all 


field. But good 



camped at Gla 



Glade Cres 


to contend wi 

the very same 

the land, but i 

that sawgrass 

we had could d 

The land s 

sawgrass, then 

Mrs. Daniel h 


crops could be 

and backed it 

never been k 

And gee whiz, 

either! 

That first 

were fifteen 

5th. Farmers 

piles of sawg 

so some plant 

froze. Anywa 

sawgrass pile 

muck. This wo 

but the cover 

aging as the f 

Since the 

this had to b 

Hog huntin 

Frank O'C 

would probab 

particular ni 

would be nob 

opened the d 

stomp and sh 

got away fr 

ditch or two 

Sometime 

Jackson, fro 

brought dow 

right pleasur

28 SW TO 128 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

36 



part part of of this this stream was was dredged out out some some five five years later later 

to to become a part a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Mile Canal which Disston 

had had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now now forms 

part part of of the the Miami canal. As As this this stream was was typical of of the the 

lake's dead dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's let's see see what what 

it it was was like. like. 







"The "The river river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, wide, the the 

depth of of water being about eight eight feet. feet. To To say say that that our our 

little little party was was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We 

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear hear exclamations 

from from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful 


perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The The water is is 

clear clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with with a a dense tropical 

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view view a solid a solid green wall, wall, 

impenetrable to to the the eye. eye. This This wall wall is is formed by by vines, 

which have have twined around the the trunks and and branches of of the the 

trees, and and have have Caskets interlaced near the and and Belle wound Glade bridge. themselves around 

each each other until until they they form form a a screen which is is almost suf 

sufficient 

to to shut shut out out the the light light of of day. day. Looking behind us us we we 

find find that During that we we this are are spring followed of by 1928 by innumerable the lake was alligators, at the lowest 

who 

who 

are ever are swimming till then recorded. lazily along Then in in our it our began wake. to rain. From all In all the sides sides month 

we 

we 

see of see them August them plunging alone, the in in the lake the rose water, three remain feet. under By mid-September 

seconds, it was rise rise a after heap after we too we have high have for passed safety. and and Then join join the came the crowd this be 

hur 

for a few 

for a few 

behinri,canehind 

us. us. We roaring We do do not across not go go two the two Caribbean. miles before It 

the walloped 

river the river Puerto 

begins 

to Rico, 

get to get killing 

and narrow, hundreds, 

we find and we find then ourselves it hit 

in West 

a little in a Palm little stream Beach 

only 

only 

and 

a Lake 

few a few Worth. 

in yards in Only width, one 

the the died sunlight there, but 

completely there 

shut was 

shut out a 

out right 

by by 

the smart 

the branches of property 

of of trees trees damage 

and and for 

vines, sure. 

which have have interlocked 

and and Nowadays twined around we each have each other radio until until and a a radar perfect and roof roof is hurricane is ed hunting ed ... ... After planes. going They half half can a mile, a track mile, we a we find storm find we we from are are no hour no longer to hour. in in 

form 

a But a stream, then but the but only winding information around in was in dark, dark, from sluggish a weather water, station the the 

roots on roots Swan and and Island branches in the of of the Caribbean, the trees trees forming and from a a such barrier passenger to to our our 

ships further as progress already ... ... were As As we equipped we return we with we examine radio, more so more there closely 

was 

the little the vines chance which for grow grow warnings, so so luxuriantly, as you and and can find find see. that that Saturday's they they are are 

a paper a species had of of told gourd, us with with that innumerable a tropical hurricane gourds hanging was due from from 

to 

strike them, perfectly the south round, end of and and Florida. about the Radio the size size reports of of a a billiard next morning 

The said vines run that run all wasn't all over over the so. the Some trees, and cautious and on on the the souls ground gassed form form 

up 

ball. ball. 

The a their a mat mat two Model two or or T's three and feet headed feet deep." 

out. Others, remembering how 



















either! 










as the frost. 




HURRICANE DEMOCRAT OF RIVER '28 

12929 


When I first I first came came to to this this lake lake these gourds still still were were 

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they they then then 

were were less less luxuriant than than the the moon vine, vine, a kind a kind of of morning 

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops tops and and the the ex 

exposed 


dusk dusk at at mid mid day. day. 








After cruising the the south shore for. for. nine nine days days the the party 

arrived, near near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, lake, at at the the 

largest and and longest of of all all these these rivers. This This they they ed ed T-D, T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this this 

stream to to its its end, end, they they laid laid a a course south by by the the compass 

christen 

for for Shark Avenue River, A after ninety the hurricane. miles Feuchtinger away by by air air building line. line. (left) Although 

water had had evidently opposite been been site five of five present feet feet City over over Hall. the the land land not not too too 

long well long they before, had they they survived found that that the it it now hurricane now was was a two a scant years five five before, inches, 

and did and nothing. under that that was was fifteen feet, feet, more more or or less, less, of of soft soft mud. 

So The So now now wind they they that are are Sunday compelled morning, to to battle brisk the the and sharp-edged 

cool, was 

from sawgrass, the north, which they as they it had had been believed the to day to be before. only only ten Relentlessly 

ten miles in in 

it extent, piled but but lake which water actually ever higher persisted into clear the to clear shallow the to the headwaters 

bay which 

of held of Shark the islands At River. of At Kreamer they times they and were were Torry, able able and to burn to the burn settlements the the saw 

saw 

of grass, Chosen, but but usually Belle Glade, the way the way South must must Bay be be and hacked Bean with with City. machetes. 

By mid 

For morning days For many low days angry they were they clouds were compelled hurried to southward, push and lift to push and dropping lift their their 

occasional boats every showers foot of the foot of of way, the rain. way, By often early making afternoon only a few only the a few winds hundred 

became dred yards stronger, in in a day. a day. and On On drenching November 17th, rain 17th, a squalls week a week after were after leav 

more leav 

huning 

frequent. ing the the lake, lake, Just a a before tall tall cypress the wires at at went Democrat down, River telephone was was still 

calls still 

came visible to to the all the lake naked towns, eye. eye. 

announcing that the edge of the 

hurricane had already reached the coast and was certain 

to hit Constantly the lake. they Our they were new were mayor, plagued Walter by by innumerable Greer, with several snakes, 

others, though drove fortunately, to Chosen nobody to was observe was bitten. the But lake. But they Returning, they were were 

soaking tortured by wet, by mosquitoes, they informed leeches the and crowd and poisonous assembled wampee 

in the 

drug plants store "which that produce lake water a a terrible was high, burning but they sensation. didn't Its 

believe 

appearance it would is is similar overflow to to the the water dike. lily, lily, Although the the leaf leaf not being advising from from 

Its 

six others, six to to twelve Greer announced inches across, that the the root intended root running to stay to to a here. a depth 

of of six six inches, and and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We 

And that was nearabout the only decision that he could 

had had the the curiosity to to taste taste it. it. We We shall shall do do so so no no more!" 

make, for shucks, by that time it was too blamed late to 

leave. Yes, Yes, Trying I I know to outrun blamed well the well storm they they in didn't! an open That That boat wampee 

would 

was be was inviting a a hellish disaster. plant, To nobody drive a would car away ever ever taste from taste it the it storm, twice! 

to Indian the south turnip or it's it's to the called west up up was north. impossible. It's It's tuber There looks looks were like like a 

no a 




36 

BEL 



to navigate, all 


field. But good 



camped at Gla 



Glade Cres 


' 


Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing to contend wit 


to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black the land, but i 




we had could d 

The land s 


sawgrass, then 


Mrs. Daniel h 




crops could be 


and backed it 


never been kn 


And gee whiz, 


either! 





r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper so some plant 


Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. sawgrass It pile 

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five muck. This wo 


and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers aging as the f 

but the cover 



this had to be 

'









it was like. 











which have twined Burning around bodies after the trunks the hurricane. and branches of the 

Burning bodies after the hurricane. 


roads ! Going toward West Palm Beach would be heading 

each other until they form a screen which is almost suf 

dead into the center of the hurricane! If you drove north, 

ficient to shut out the light of day. Looking behind us we 

that 

find meant 

that we skirting 

are followed the shore 

by of 

innumerable the much feared 

alligators, lake and 

who 

bucking into the wind head on! There was no alternative 


but to stay at home. 


seconds, Hog On hearing hunting rise after party, Greer's about we report have 1920. passed Left I returned to right and -join to Negro my the unfinished crowd porter, be 

two hind 

Frank story us. 

O'Connell, 

We Pioneer do not Service Nelle 

go 

Greer 

two Station with 

miles 

dog, building, before 

Claire Greer 

the where, river 

in with rear, 

begins 

my 

carpenter Loti Greer far right. 

to get narrow, and my and young we find mechanic, ourselves I in had a little been stream batching. only 

This would a few building's 

probably yards in lower 

be width, floor 

Paul the Davidson. sunlight was well 

But completely occupied by 

good grief, shut my 

on out service 

particular the station branches and 

this 

by 

night of living 

her trees room, 

husband vines, a barber 

would which shop, 

be at have a hand 

home, interlocked laundry 

would and and twined a bakery. 

and he 

be nobody around The 

but each unpartitioned 

John other Kirk, until the marshall a upper perfect floor 

! After roof we is Mable form 

had 

braced opened ... well 

the After that 

door going morning, 

for half the a and 

poor mile, so 

guy, we effectively find John we would are that no the 

begin longer walls 

to in 

were stomp a stream, never 

and shout but warped winding an inch 

and fire around from 

off his in plumb. 

six dark, shooter! sluggish If that water, fellow the 

got roots Darkness away and from branches came there early, of without the and trees with getting forming it vicious half a drowned barrier gales which to in our a 

ditch eventually further or two progress hauled he could ... around As say we that to return the he northwest. was examine lucky. 

We more three closely 

sat 

in the silence vines as which surges grow of so wind luxuriantly, driven rain, and like find ocean that they waves, are 

dashed a species Sometimes against of gourd, they'd windows. with elaborate innumerable Our on this electric stunt gourds light a hanging little. went Young from 

out. 

Jackson, The them, building perfectly from groaned Pahokee, round, and who about shuddered. had the already size With of been a billiard a initiated, 

rending ball. 

brought crash The vines the down run roof his all departed. friend over the Albert, trees, Presently, who and allowed on torrents the that ground seeping he'd form be 

right through a mat pleasured two the or ceiling three for extinguished to feet visit deep." Mable. our When kerosene Albert lamp, rapped so fin- on 

roads ! Going toward West Palm Beach would be heading 

dead into the center of the hurricane! If you drove north, 

that meant skirting the shore of the much feared lake and 

bucking into the wind head on! There was no alternative 

but to stay at home. 

On hearing Greer's report I returned to my unfinished 

two story Pioneer Service Station building, where, with my 

carpenter and my young mechanic, I had been batching. 

This building's lower floor was well occupied by my service 

station and living room, a barber shop, a hand laundry 

and a bakery. The unpartitioned upper floor we had 

braced well that morning, and so effectively that the walls 

were never warped an inch from plumb. 

Darkness came early, and with it vicious gales which 

eventually hauled around to the northwest. We three sat 

in silence as surges of wind driven rain, like ocean waves, 

dashed against the windows. Our electric light went out. 

The building groaned and shuddered. With a rending 

crash the roof departed. Presently, torrents seeping 

through the ceiling extinguished our kerosene lamp, so fin- 

FUN HURRICANE DEMOCRAT AND FROLICS OF RIVER '28 172 131 173 3029 

BEL B 


the door and the shooting started, Jackson flopped down 


big and delic 

on his face. 


dred firecrac 

were 

I decided to 

"Git less going, luxuriant Albert." than he the cried. moon "I'm vine, hit a and kind I of think morning that 

ing one in se 

I'm glory, a-dying!" which completely blanketed the tops and the exposed 


er showed, I 

dusk Albert at mid high-tailed day. it back to Pahokee where some few of seconds m 

his friends, previously tipped off, were conveniently waiting. 

After They cruising all drove the down south for shore to avenge for. nine their days friend. the party wampee In juic 

and the sens 

the arrived, ensuing near gun the battle, southernmost two more point Pahokee-ites on the lake, were at likewise 

largest "killed", and longest and poor of all Albert these didn't rivers. dare This go they home christen 

for know a that's 

numerable the t 

week. ed T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this strangely eno 

stream to its end, they laid a course south by the compass unbelievably 

for 

Another 

Shark River, 

game of 

ninety 

this rough 

miles away 

neck bunch 

by air 

was 

line. 

to 

Although 

initiate 

and squeal i 

a 

water 

newly 

had 

married 

evidently 

man 

been 

by tossing 

five feet 

him 

over 

off the 

the 

Main 

land not 

Street 

the too jackdaws 

bridge. 

long before, 

They 

they 

didn't 

found 

fail 

that 

to get 

it now 

me 

was 

either. 

a scant 

I had 

five 

gone 

inches, sawgrass 

to 

roo 

Tennessee 

and under 

to 

that 

get 

was 

my 

fifteen 

bride, but 

feet, 

I left 

more 

her 

or 

with 

less, of 

my 

soft 

parents 

mud. bills toward 

in Ft. Lauderdale till I could get our living quarters finished. 

One So now night they "Big" are Pate compelled As the p 

hurried to upstairs battle the to sharp-edged 

inform me 

also to have 

that sawgrass, I had a which long distance they had call believed from to Ft. be Lauderdale. only ten miles Gosh, in 

I extent, knew Drill but that barge which was on actually important, which the persisted author so rode down clear out I the to rushed hurricane. the headwaters to dash "All arou 

across of Shark to the River. telephone At times in they were hotel. able It looked to burn as the if sawgrass, 

blamed but usually settlement the way was must lined be up hacked in the with street! machetes. I was ing of a frog 

stopped. The air was practically calm! We now were gator in 

the by any sound 

ally we ventured outside. To our amazement the rain had 

whole 

right For many good days at running, they were but compelled not so hot to at push dodging, and lift so Pate their would 

the eye, the very center of the hurricane! 

got boats me every cornered foot of and the the way, whole often mob making then escorted only a few me hundred 

bridge yards where in a day. I had On to November high dive 17th, into a that week black, after cold leavHog As they huntingp 

what 

sion to we cann 

the 

Frank 

deeper. 

O'Co 

water. ing the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still 


boats could 

Homer Deloach had married a young widow who had 

would half. On probab the 

a couple Constantly of girls. they The were boys plagued ganged up by to innumerable give him the snakes, customary 

though dunking, fortunately, but Homer nobody decided was bitten. to object. But Now, they Homer were particular about five nig fe 

would some be five nobo ac 

wasn't tortured very by tall, mosquitoes, but he had leeches remarkably and poisonous broad shoulders wampee 

opened islands the were do 

and plants powerful "which arms. produce Besides a terrible he had burning six fingers sensation. each Its 

stomp and more and sho ple 

hand, appearance which is gave similar him to good the gripping water lily, power. the leaf As being he landed from 

got and away on Dece fro 

his six swings to twelve and inches punches, across, all hands the root backed running away. to All a depth that 

ditch then or were two in 

is, of except six inches, for Loti and Greer, resembles who was a shallot much in bigger, appearance. and much We 

mouth at th 

of had a the man curiosity himself. to They taste wrestled it. We shall and do pounded so no more!" on each schooner Sometimes whi 

other Yes, all I the know way blamed to the bridge. well they The didn't! bride and That her wampee half Jackson, civilization. from 

grown was a daughter hellish plant, joined nobody in, beating would poor ever Loti taste with twice! shoe brought taken 27 down day 

heels Indian and turnip sticks it's till called he was up plumb north. give It's tuber out. Nobody looks like else right in a Shark pleasure Riv 

Drill barge on which the author rode out the hurricane. 

ally we ventured outside. To our amazement the rain had 

stopped. The air was practically calm! We now were in 

the eye, the very center of the hurricane! 

A neighbor came begging us to help search for a missing 

child. Hardly had we started when the gale returned, 

A neighbor came begging us to help search for a missing 

child. Hardly had we started when the gale returned, 

from southwest this time, stronger than before. A blast 

funnelled between the hotel and the drug store sent me 

from southwest this time, stronger than before. A blast 

funnelled between the hotel and the drug store sent me 

spinning. Mindful now of rising water, we proceeded to the 

spinning. Mindful now of rising water, we proceeded to the 

bridge, the highest ground in town. Lodged against the 

bridge we saw the steel drill barge of Captain Hamp Holloway, 

which had drifted down from Chosen. Voices hailed 

bridge, the highest ground in town. Lodged against the 

bridge we saw the steel drill barge of Captain Hamp Holloway, 

which had drifted down from Chosen. Voices hailed 

us. Huddled on top of the water tank and beneath the roof, 

were my dredging friend Bill Hunt, with his bride Lois 

us. Huddled on top of the water tank and beneath the roof, 

were my dredging friend Bill Hunt, with his bride Lois 

and a man named White. The breaking of the lake shore 

and a man named White. The breaking of the lake shore 

dike had already washed their house into the canal. Diving 

dike had already washed their house into the canal. Diving 

through the windows and clambering to the roof, they had 

ridden their house to here, where it had broken up against 

through the windows and clambering to the roof, they had 

ridden their house to here, where it had broken up against 

the bridge. Also on this perilous ride had been J. H. Elliott, 

the bridge. Also on this perilous ride had been J. H. Elliott,




from Torry Island, but he had made his way to the hotel, 

where he reported that the other three had drowned. 

The water here was not yet noticeably above the ground, 

but it it didn't take long to come. Locking arms, my whiteheaded 

carpenter and I now attempted to retrace our steps 

to Tedder's hotel. Water rushing like a mill race, forced 

us to return. The rising canal had caused the barge to lift 

the bridge from its anchor pins. Just as we were stepping 

onto it, the bridge swung open. The barge drifted through, 

but a cable fouled on a piling halted it it in mid stream. 

House tops, barges, houseboat hulls, trees and wreckage 

jammed the gap. Lighting each other's way with our flash 

lights, we scrambled over the surging wreckage to the drill 

barge, where, soaked and shivering, the others descended 

into the stygian hold, now knee deep in water. I, I, electing 

to stay on deck, salvaged a bilge pump from a wrecked 

houseboat, and tried to get warm by pumping, for a good 

sized hole had been punched just above the water line, and 

no telling if if another might be below. 

The wind, like a thousand devils, howled its hollow 

roar. Horizontal rain, stinging like sleet, dashed in unceasing 

deluge. Wind in demoniac gusts threatened to 

snatch the roof from off our barge. Black, raging waves 

hid all Hog the hunting land. party, Furious about blasts 1920. Left hurled to right rain - in Negro torrents porter, 

in 

Frank O'Connell, Nelle Greer with dog, Claire Greer in rear, 

to the blackness of that wild night. Truly, "the fountains 

Loti Greer far right. 

of the great deep were broken up and the windows of 

heaven would probably were opened!" 

be Paul Davidson. But good grief, on this 

particular Above the night bedlam her might husband be heard would the be despairing at home, and shout 

he 

of would some be desperate nobody but swimmer. John Kirk, By my the flash marshall light's ! After dim beam Mable 

I opened watched the appalled door for as the poor water guy, rose-above John would the begin bridge 

to 

deck-above stomp and shout its rails. and fire It rose off his an inch six shooter! a minute, If that according 

fellow 

to got watchers away from in the there hotel. without After a getting grand final half surge, drowned it it sub 

in a 

sided ditch long or two enough he could to leave say a that water he mark was lucky. 

a full seven :feet 

above the ground. 

About Sometimes ten that they'd night elaborate the fury on of this the stunt tempest a little. seemed Young 

to 

reach Jackson, its peak. from Very Pahokee, slowly who the had wind, already the rain, been and 

initiated, 

the 

waves brought abated, down until his friend about Albert, 4 :30 I who saw allowed lights, that as several 

he'd be 

hardy right souls pleasured ventured for to from visit the Mable. hotel. When Through Albert knee-deep 

rapped on 

























persuaded him to try his luck at share cr 

er Island. Moving his family by wagon 

by barge across the lake, he farmed on 

FUN AND FROLICS 172 BEL 

HURRICANE OF '28 

173 

133 

50 


water the door we all and hastened the shooting to the started, hotel where Jackson we relapsed flopped wetdown 

Jy on to his sleep face. 

on the floor until a murky day revealed the 

wreckage "Git going, on every Albert." hand. 

he cried. "I'm hit and I think that 

I'm Familiar a-dying!" 

buildings were. missing. Houses leaned drunkenly 

where no houses had stood before. A later check showed 

that Albert on the high-tailed south side it of back the to canal, Pahokee where where most some of the 

of 

town his friends, was situated, previously only six tipped buildings off, were remained conveniently in place wait 

on 

their ing. foundations. They all drove The down only for undamaged to avenge building their friend. in town 

In 

was the the ensuing hotel gun on Main battle, Street two more of George Pahokee-ites E. Tedder were (now 

like 

Fears wise "killed", Hotel) . . This and poor had been Albert constructed didn't dare from go home material 

for a 

from week. 

one of the wings of the famous Royal Poinciana 

Hotel Another 

in Palm game 

Beach, of this 

reputed rough 

to neck 

have bunch 

been was 

the to 

largest 

initiate 

wooden a newly 

building married 

in man 

the world. 

by tossing him off the Main Street 

bridge. The houses They of didn't E. C. fail Everett, to get M. me C. either. Eggleston I had and gone Willie 

to 

D. Tennessee Motes, had to get been my carried bride, eastward but I left across her with the my highway, 

parents 

across in Ft. the Lauderdale canal and till onto I could the get bank our on living the quarters far side. finished. 

One of night Motes, "Big" with Pate thirty-eight hurried people, upstairs had to inform travelled 

me 

three-quarters that I had a long of a distance mile. Water call from still Ft. covered Lauderdale. the ground, 

Gosh, 

and I knew would that remain was for important, weeks to so come. 

down I rushed to dash 

The 

house across In places to the the telephone lakeshore in levee the hotel. was now It looked only as half if its 

the 

former whole height. blamed In settlement other spots was huge lined gaps, up in a the hundred street! yards 

I was 

in right length, good had at been running, leveled but to not the so ground. hot at On dodging, Torry Island, so Pate 

when got me Aunapu's cornered packing and the house whole collapsed, mob then only escorted twelve me of 

to 

the the twenty-three bridge where people I had there to high survived. dive At into Chosen. that black, of nine 

cold Hog hunting 

teen Frank O'C 

water. in the families of Pat and Ray Burke, only two saw 

daylight, and in the family of Emmanuel Schlechter, nearby, 

only Homer one Deloach of eight. had In married South Bay, a young except widow for some who 150 

had 

would probab 

or a more couple who of girls. huddled The in boys a substantial ganged up quarterboat to give him moored 

the customary 

the locks, dunking, nearly but the Homer whole decided population to object. was Now, wiped Homer 

out. 

would be nobo 

Bean wasn't City very and tall, Miami but Locks he had (now remarkably Lake Harbor) broad suffered 

particular nig 

at shoulders 

opened the d 

likewise. and powerful State engineers 

arms. Besides later he established had six fingers that at on South 

each 

stomp and sho 

Bay, hand, Chosen which and 

gave on him Torry good Island, 

gripping the power. lake As waters he landed 

had 

got away fro 

reached his swings the unbelievable and punches, depth all hands of eleven backed feet away. eight All inches. 

that 

ditch or two 

is, except for Loti Greer, who was much bigger, and much 

Altogether, some two thousand people were drowned, 

of a man himself. They wrestled and pounded on each 

about three-fourths of whom were negroes, many being 

Sometime 

other all the way to the bridge. The bride and her half 

laborers from the Bahamas. 

Jackson, from 

grown daughter joined in, beating poor Loti with shoe 

Outboard motor boats searched the flooded fields, the 

brought down 

heels and sticks till he was plumb give out. Nobody else 

sawgrass marshes and willow and elder clumps. Bodies 

right pleasur 






















than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft.


172 28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 






it was like. 



















seconds, Hog hunting rise after party, we about have 1920. passed Left to and right join - Negro the crowd porter, behind 

Frank 

us. We 

O'Connell, 

do not 

Nelle 

go two 

Greer 

miles 

with dog, 

before 

Claire 

the 

Greer 

river 

in rear, 

begins 



would a few yards probably in width, be Paul the Davidson. sunlight But completely good grief, shut on out this 

by 

particular the branches night of her trees husband vines, would which be at have home, interlocked and he 

would and twined be nobody around but each John other Kirk, until the marshall a perfect ! roof After is Mable formed 

... After the door going for half the a poor mile, we guy, find John we would are no begin longer to in 

opened 

stomp a stream, and but shout winding and fire around off his in six dark, shooter! sluggish If that water, fellow the 

got roots away and from branches there of without the trees getting forming half a barrier drowned to in our a 

ditch further or progress two he could ... As say we that return he we was examine lucky. more closely 


a species Sometimes of gourd, they'd with elaborate innumerable on this gourds stunt a hanging little. Young from 

them, Jackson, perfectly from Pahokee, round, and who about had the already size of been a billiard initiated, ball. 

The brought vines down run his all over friend the Albert, trees, who and allowed on the ground that he'd form be 

right a mat pleasured two or three for to feet visit deep." Mable. When Albert rapped on 

Break in Iake shore levee. 

were brought in, half a dozen at a time, each with a turn 

of rope about its neck, like a ghastly bunch of grapes. At 

the Belle Glade bridge they were stacked like cord wood, 

waiting for trucks to haul them into town, where they were 

buried in trenches dug by steam shovels. After a couple 

of weeks, the bodies, too decomposed to be shipped, were 

were heaped brought in piles in, where half found, a dozen doused at a time, with fuel each oil with and a burned, 

rope a dozen, about even its neck, two dozen like a in ghastly one heap. bunch Yet of many grapes. were At 

turn 

of 

the overlooked. Belle Glade For bridge years, farmers they were clearing stacked new like land cord discovered 

waiting skeletons for trucks far to out haul in them sawgrass. into town, where they were 

wood, 

buried During trenches the ensuing dug years, by steam at every shovels. warning After of a a couple hurricane, 

of weeks, lake the shore bodies, towns too and decomposed settlements to would be shipped, be deserted were 

heaped villages, in as piles the where inhabitants found, fled doused for with safety. fuel But oil now, and burned, 

the a massive dozen, even Herbert two Hoover dozen in Dike one encircling heap. Yet the many lake, were a 

with 

hurricane overlooked. causes For years, scant alarm. farmers This clearing dike has new been land well discovereed 

several skeletons times, far so out I don't in the reckon sawgrass. we'll never, ever have 

test 

another During such the disaster ensuing ! years, at every warning of a hurricane, 

So this, lake shore folks, towns is a nut and shell settlements story of would the Big be Storm deserted of 

villages, '2, the greatest as the inhabitants event Belle fled Glade's for safety. history. But But now, if with you 

the still massive crave to Herbert learn more Hoover of this Dike horrendous encircling hurricane the lake, in a 

hurricane its grisly causes details, scant you'll alarm. just have This to dike read has my been "Okeechobee well tested 

Hurricane" several times, and my so "Cracker I don't reckon History we'll of never, Okeechobee" ever have for 

another I'll be good such and disaster dad burned ! if I want to rehash it all aain. 

So this, folks, is a nut shell story of the Big Storm of 

'2, the greatest event in Belle Glade's history. But if you 

still crave to learn more of this horrendous hurricane in 

its grisly details, you'll just have to read my "Okeechobee 


DEMOCRAT FUN AND FROLICS RIVER 173 29 



on his face. 


were "Git less going, luxuriant Albert." than the cried. moon "I'm vine, hit a kind and I of think morning that 

glory, I'm a-dying!" which completely blanketed the tops and the exposed 


dusk Albert at mid high-tailed day. it back to Pahokee where some of 


After They cruising all drove the down south for shore to avenge for. nine their days friend. the party In 

arrived, the ensuing near gun the battle, southernmost two more point Pahokee-ites on the lake, were at likewise 

"killed", and longest and poor of all Albert these didn't rivers. dare This go they home christen 

for a 

the 

largest 

ed week. T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this 


for 

Another 

Shark River, 

game 

ninety 

of this 

miles 

rough 

away 

neck 

by 

bunch 

air line. 

was to 

Although 

initiate 

water 

a newly 

had 

married 

evidently 

man 

been 

by tossing 

five feet 

him 

over 

off 

the 

the 

land 

Main 

not 

Street 

too 

long 

bridge. 

before, 

They 

they 

didn't 

found 

fail 

that 

to 

it get 

now 

me 

was 

either. 

a scant 

I had 

five 

gone 

inches, to 

and Tennessee under that to get was my fifteen bride, feet, but I more left her or less, with of my soft parents mud. 


So One now night they "Big" are compelled Pate hurried to battle upstairs the to sharp-edged inform me 

sawgrass, that I had which a long they distance had believed call from to Ft. be Lauderdale. only ten miles Gosh, in 

extent, I knew but that which was actually important, persisted so down clear I to rushed the headwaters to dash 

of across Shark to River. the telephone At times in they the were hotel. able It to looked burn as the if sawgrass, 

whole but blamed usually settlement the way was must lined be up hacked in the with street! machetes. I was 

the 

For right many good days at running, they were but compelled not so hot to at push dodging, and lift so their Pate 

boats got me every cornered foot of and the the way, whole often mob making then only escorted a few me hundred 

the bridge yards in where a day. I had On November to high dive 17th, into a week that black, after leav 

cold 

to 

ing water. the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still 



a couple Constantly of girls. they The were boys plagued ganged by up innumerable to give him the snakes, customary 

dunking, fortunately, but nobody Homer decided was bitten. to object. But Now, they Homer were 

though 

tortured wasn't very by tall, mosquitoes, but he had leeches remarkably and poisonous broad shoulders wampee 

plants and powerful "which arms. produce Besides a terrible he had burning six fingers sensation. each Its 

appearance hand, which is gave similar him to good the water gripping lily, power. the leaf As being he landed from 

six his to swings twelve and inches punches, across, all the hands root backed running away. to All a depth that 

of is, six except inches, for Loti and Greer, resembles who a was shallot much in bigger, appearance. and much We 

had of a the man curiosity himself. to They taste it. wrestled We shall and do pounded so no more!" on each 

other Yes, all I the know way blamed to the well bridge. they The didn't! bride That and her wampee half 

was grown a hellish daughter plant, joined nobody in, beating would poor ever Loti taste with twice! shoe 

Indian heels and turnip sticks it's till called he was up north. plumb It's give tuber out. Nobody looks like else a 

CHAPTER TWENTY 


He Made the Women Walk 


Sometimes I wonder how Doc Buck would make out 

today among these new jet-age fee-sicians. You know, 

they cure you with a needle in one hand, a receipt book 

in the other and half a dozen prescriptions in between. 

When Doc came to Belle Glade in the winter of 1927-28 

he was the only doctor between Pahokee and Moore Haven. 

Of course, Sometimes we already I wonder had how a drugstore Doc Buck here, would a plumb make good out 

one today too. among Even before these new K. C. jet-age (Casey) fee-sicians. Alston put You in his know, prescription 

they cure counter you with you a needle could get in one Epson hand, salts, a receipt Sloan's book liniment 

in the and other Three and Sixes half a and dozen most prescriptions anything a in body between. would 

need. When Doc came to Belle Glade in the winter of 1927-28 

he was I reckon the only Doc doctor had a between hypodermic Pahokee needle and Moore but he Haven. didn't 

Of scarcely course, ever we use already it. He had didn't a drugstore even send here, out a bills plumb till good just 

a one few too. years Even before he K. died. C. (Casey) He figured Alston that put people in his would prescription 

him sooner counter or you later could and get I reckon Epson most salts, of Sloan's them lini 

did, 

pay 

though ment and a heap Three of Sixes times and it was most later. anything For instance, a body if would Jim 

need. Jones was to come sloshing through the rain some night 

and I say reckon "Doc, Doc my old had lady's a hypodermic a-fixing for needle to have but a he young'un didn't 

before scarcely day. ever I'd use be it. mighty He didn't proud even if'n send you out could bills come till over just 

to a few Little years Bare before Beach he and died. kind He of figured help out. that My people boat's would down 

to pay the him canal sooner bridge." or later Do you and suppose I reckon Doc most would of have them asked did, 

though him "Why a heap in the of times blazes it didn't was later. you pay For me instance, for that if Jim last 

Jones was to come sloshing through the rain some night 

and say "Doc, my old lady's a-fixing for to have a young'un 

before day. I'd be mighty proud if'n you could come over 

to Little Bare Beach and kind of help out. My boat's down 

to the canal bridge." Do you suppose Doc would have asked 

135

Day by day now, the hordes of workers 

poured in. Some came limping in 

with their shoes and sore feet from 

walking. It’s hard trying to follow 

your shoe instead of your shoe following 

you. They came in wagons 

from way up in Georgia and they 

came in truck loads from east, west, 

north and south. Permanent transients 

with no attachments and tired 

looking men with their families and 

dogs in flivvers. All night, all day, 

hurrying in to pick beans. Skillets, 

beds, patched up spare inner tubes 

all hanging and dangling from the 

ancient cars on the outside and 

hopeful humanity, herded and hovered 

on the inside, chugging on to 

the muck.

All night now the jooks 

clanged and clamored.

Pianos living three lifetimes in one. 

Blues made and used right on the 

spot. Dancing, fighting, singing, 

crying, laughing, winning and losing 

love every hour. Work all day for 

money, fight all night for love.

Louder and higher and lower and 

wider the sound and motion spread, 

mounting, sinking, darking. It woke 

up old Okeechobee and the monster 

began to roll in his bed.

The wind came back with triple fury, 

and put out the light for the last time. 

They sat in company with the others 

in other shanties, their eyes straining 

against crude walls and their souls 

asking if He meant to measure their 

puny might against His. They seemed 

to be staring at the dark, but their 

eyes were watching God.


silent with fatigue ( or wine), others are laughing, flirting, 


said of these bean pickers, they "work all day for 

money and fight all night for love". At street corners some 

huddle around fires in trash barrels for a modicum of 

warmth. Lunch rooms, pool halls and jook joints are jammed. 

Dark figures sip wine at the bar in front, tables in 

the rear are well occupied by card players at their games 

of "skin" and the piano bangs loudly for a few dancing 

couples, and everybody is having fun, I reckon. 

Long after midnight the mob begins to drift away, 

some to their dingy rooms, others, after waiting until the 

places close, stretch out on benches and floors in pool 

rooms and jooks. One time I remonstrated with a labor 

contractor, himself a negro, that the jook joints should 

close earlier so those poor bean pickers could get more 

sleep, but he replied, 

"Mistuh Will, dese nigguhs picks beans all day, and 

dey jooks all night. Dey don't neveh git no sleep. De best 

bean pickers in Belle Glade don't never sleep from N ovember 

until May!" 

And I reckon he was telling the stomped down truth! 

GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE 

Harvest of Shame 

You, I reckon, like most folks, just because it's in print, 

believe everything you read in the papers and magazines, 

and if you see a "documentary" on the television you know 

blamed well it must be gospel truth. So now let me tell you 

about a documentary that was filmed right here in Belle 

Glade! On November 25, 1960, mililons of people in the 

United States watched a documentary film called "Harvest 

of Shame". It was on the TV network of Columbia Broadcasting 

System. It was made by Edgar R. Murrow and it 

was sponsored by the Philip Morris Cigarette Company, 

and so naturally you would believe every word of it. 

This broadcast was made to show the sad predicament 

of migrant agricultural workers, mostly negroes, whom it 

called "slaves" in the "sweat shop of the soil". A horrible 

indictment it was of our farmers and citizens here who 

allowed such terrible conditions to exist. 

I saw only a part of this broadcast, but the Palm Beach 

Post on February 8, 1961 published a 20-page supplement 

which exposed the half truths and the outright lies portrayed 

in this show. While in West Palm Beach I had stepped 

into a store in time to hear the name Belle Glade on 

197 


CHAPTER NINETEEN 

Hurricane of '28 

Life in these Everglades wasn't easy in those early 

days, what with floods, freezes, muck fires, mosquitoes and 

thieving buyers in New York. These things could be right 

unpleasant, but they were not calamities. But we did have 

one calamity. Oh brother! And that one was a humdinger! 

It like to have wiped Belle Glade, Chosen and South Bay 

off the map, and killed nearabout 2000 people. I'm speaking 

of that Big Storm of September 16, 1928. Y'all have 

heard tell of hurricanes and you've heard of tidal waves, 

and you know blamed well that they are no trifling matters. 

We were hit by the dead center of this hurricane, and 

we had a right good imitation of a tidal wave as well. 

Water surged seven feet deep in the streets of Belle Glade 

in the black darkness of that September night. 

The books tell us of a hurricane in 1900 which drowned 

five or six thousand in the island city of Galveston, and 

you can read of the 2200 who died when a mountain dam 

broke at Johnstown, Pennsylvania. Well, for loss of life 

in a peace-time disaster our hurricane ranks right next 

to them. More died here that night then even in the sinkings 

of the Titanic or the Lusitania. I was right spang in 

126 

, but he had made his way to the hotel, 

that the other three had drowned. 

water we all hastened to the hotel where we relapsed wet 

Jy to sleep on the floor until a murky day revealed the


CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE 

CHAPTER TEN 


Fun and Frolics 


Country Store 


were brought in, half a dozen at a time, each with a turn 

of rope about its neck, like a ghastly bunch of grapes. At 

the Belle Glade bridge they were stacked like cord wood, 

waiting for trucks to haul them into town, where they were 

buried in trenches dug by steam shovels. After a couple 

of weeks, the bodies, too decomposed to be shipped, were 

heaped in piles where found, doused with fuel oil and burned, 

a dozen, even two dozen in one heap. Yet many were 

overlooked. For years, farmers clearing new land discovered 

skeletons far out in the sawgrass. 

During the ensuing years, at every warning of a hurricane, 

lake shore towns and settlements would be deserted 

villages, as the inhabitants fled for safety. But now, with 

the massive Herbert Hoover Dike encircling the lake, a 

hurricane causes scant alarm. This dike has been well tested 

several times, so I don't reckon we'll never, ever have 

another such disaster ! 

So this, folks, is a nut shell story of the Big Storm of 

'2, the greatest event in Belle Glade's history. But if you 

still crave to learn more of this horrendous hurricane in 

its grisly details, you'll just have to read my "Okeechobee 

Hurricane" and my "Cracker History of Okeechobee" for 

I'll be good and dad burned if I want to rehash it all aain. 

In the early days out here in these custard apple 

swamps everybody had to work as hard as hell just trying 

for to make an honest living. Between having rabbits eating 

your rows of vegetables, wild hogs rooting them up, 

frosts every now and again, and thieving buyers in New 

York, it was a right rough job to keep some grits and 

bacon on the table. Yet still, whensomever there was a 

chance, people managed to have a little amusement in spite 

of all. 

Belle Glade's first store, as I was telling you, was run 

by Mr. Badger, but while the road from West Palm Beach 

was being built another store was started up, owned and 

run by Festus Stallings. This was located on a mucky 

trail across the street from where the City Hall now stands. 

As an emporium it wasn't much, just big enough in which 

to cuss a good sized cat, but it somehow seemed to do a 

right good business. Still, I might have forgot this store 

if I hadn't got hold of an old letter written by a dredgeboat 

man in June 11, 1923 and mailed at the Chosen post office. 

It seems as how this writer, with another man from the 

dredge, had come to Belle Glade where he says, "We stuck 

around and killed time till after dark. Part of this time 

we waited in a new store which seems to be a popular loafing 

place, mostly, I suppose on account of the storekeeper's 

two pretty daughters who work there. One of them is a 

"grass widow" with two babies, while the other is one of 

the few single girls to be found around the lake. There are 

plenty of young girls here but most of them are married 

or widows it seems, mostly grass widows at that. 

"The store was lighted by one smoky kerosene lamp 

and like all one-horse stores, was in an awful mess, with the 

Sometimes I wonder how Doc Buck would make out 

today among these new jet-age fee-sicians. You know, 

they cure you with a needle in one hand, a receipt book 

in the other and half a dozen prescriptions in between. 

When Doc came to Belle Glade in the winter of 1927-28 

he was the only doctor between Pahokee and Moore Haven. 

Of course, we already had a drugstore here, a plumb good 

one too. Even before K. C. (Casey) Alston put in his prescription 

counter you could get Epson salts, Sloan's liniment 

and Three Sixes and most anything a body would 

need. 

I reckon Doc had a hypodermic needle but he didn't 

scarcely ever use it. He didn't even send out bills till just 

a few years before he died. He figured that people would 

pay him sooner or later and I reckon most of them did, 

though a heap of times it was later. For instance, if Jim 

Jones was to come sloshing through the rain some night 

and say "Doc, my old lady's a-fixing for to have a young'un 

before day. I'd be mighty proud if'n you could come over 

to Little Bare Beach and kind of help out. My boat's down 

to the canal bridge." Do you suppose Doc would have asked 

him "Why in the blazes didn't you pay me for that last 

One form of amusement, or pastime, if you want to 

call it that, was to do a little hunting. Not hunting for deer 

and turkeys for they weren't found around this part of 

the lake though bears were sometimes seen around Moore 

Haven. There were an ample plenty of ducks in winter 

time, and coots the year around, if'n you wanted to mess 

with them, but ducks and coots were so numerous that 

shooting them wasn't scarcely classed as pastime, excepting 

by those city slickers who'd come to the lake for nothing 

else. 

1 

And of course, there was an ample plenty of raccoons, 

and brown swamp rabbits by blue millions, and we had 

168 

72 

135


folks would gab and gossip. 

The young bucks 

would whisper to the gals, 

who then would try to 

elude their ever watchful 

mamas while they slipped 

off to where it might be 

peaceful and quiet, for to 

do a bit of courting. 

Shine jugs would circulate, 

while folks swapped 

lies and talked about their 

neighbors. Before dark, of 

course, there most generally 

would be a few fist 

fights, t h e n everybody 

would chug - chug home 

after having 

a glorious 

Fritz Stein (left) and Fred Greer. 

holiday. 

After we got some schoolhouses on this lake, then folks 

began to have square dances, since those were the o _ nly 

buildings with floors big enough to dance on. At one time 

there used to be a square dance every Saturday in Okeelanta, 

South Bay or Belle Glade. In Okeelanta the frolics 

were held in the town hall, a 30 by 60 building near the 

school. South Bay was half way between the other two 

settlements, but to get from Okeelanta to Belle Glade or 

the other way about, you'd have to go by way of Torry 

Island, a trip of eight or nine miles which would take you 

well over an hour. Still, I reckon there's worse ways to 

spend an hour than with your arm around your girl friend. 

Everybody, of course, came by boat. If you didn't have 

a boat you'd just have to stay at home. There was only one 

family which came to the Okeelanta dances by land. At 

that time Walter Greer and his wife, and his son Allen 

with his wife and kids lived far out in the sawgrass south 

of Belle Glade. On a dance night, just before dark, you'd 

FUN AND FROLICS 171 

see Allen, wrapped head and ears in a linen "duster", piloting 

his wide-wheeled Fordson tractor through the sawgrass.1 

Behind, in a flat-bodied and wide-tired wagon, were both 

families, partly shielded from the itching muck dust by 

an old tarpaulin. Allen would "yoo-hoo" like a Seminole 

and someone would ferry the whole flock across the canal. 

Then they'd all have to repair to some house for to wash 

off that dust so's they'd look like white folks again. And 

how those Greers loved to dance! You'd often see all three 

generations dancing on the floor at once. 

These dances used to break up at midnight, for folks 

didn't believe in dancing on the Sabbath, and especially 

since they'd be holding a Sunday school in the same building 

in just a few hours. These settlers weren't like those catfishers 

who danced at John Upthegrove's camp for two 

days and two nights without a stop for breath. With plenty 

of drinking liquor on hand, those catfishing boys and 

girls just didn't know when to quit. 

About the time that Belle Glade was beginning to be a 

town, there was a bunch of young bucks here who loved 

to stir up some kind of devilment. The main ones seemed 

to be "Slick" Kirchman, "Gator" Tillery, Paul Davidson, 

"Shorty" DeLaurie, all the Greer boys, and of course the 

town marshall (and later High Sheriff), John Kirk. Then 

from Chosen, roaring down that rocky road on their motor 

cycles, would come Hans and Fritz Stein and Dick Lefils. 

One of their games, whensomever some young buck 

would arrive in town, was to ask him if he wouldn't like 

to go to Mable's house. Now Mable, he'd be informed, lived 

just outside the settlement. If he'd slip out to her house 

some night, rap on the door and say, "My name's Joe", 

she'd likely let him in. Of course, since he couldn't find the 

house by himself, some of the gang would be good sports 

and pilot him out there. 

Now unbeknownst to this love sick swain, "Mable", 

suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda, 



















after having 

a glorious 


holiday. 










































































after having 

a glorious 


holiday. 

























































Hog hunting party, about 1920. Left to right - Negro porter, 

Frank O'Connell, Nelle Greer with dog, Claire Greer in rear, 


would probably be Paul Davidson. But good grief, on this 

particular night her husband would be at home, and he 

would be nobody but John Kirk, the marshall ! After Mable 



on his face. 

"Git going, Albert." he cried. "I'm hit and I think that 

I'm a-dying!" 

Albert high-tailed it back to Pahokee where some of 


They all drove down for to avenge their friend. In 

the ensuing gun battle, two more Pahokee-ites were likewise 

"killed", and poor Albert didn't dare go home for a 

week. 

Another game of this rough neck bunch was to initiate 

a newly married man by tossing him off the Main Street 

bridge. They didn't fail to get me either. I had gone to 

Tennessee to get my bride, but I left her with my parents 


One night "Big" Pate hurried upstairs to inform me 

that I had a long distance call from Ft. Lauderdale. Gosh, 

I knew that was important, so down I rushed to dash 

across to the telephone in the hotel. It looked as if the 

whole blamed settlement was lined up in the street! I was 

right good at running, but not so hot at dodging, so Pate 

got me cornered and the whole mob then escorted me to 

the bridge where I had to high dive into that black, cold 

water. 


a couple of girls. The boys ganged up to give him the customary 

dunking, but Homer decided to object. Now, Homer 

wasn't very tall, but he had remarkably broad shoulders 







it was like. 



















































































































now! 










even noticed. 























31 

tating that 

han a vast 

for all time 

ld see them 

.from Lake 

the Everiami 

Canal 

t River was 

expedition 

enough, he 

iver's fork. 

hey weren't 

s, "ere the 

astir." The 

were rowed 

for the last 

les to come. 

more than 

ith a slight 

of the trees 

network to 

e approach 

ater course 

e machetes, 

journey is 


rees which 

a couple of 

exists, but 

pples. Our 

ur voyage, 

tion of the 

white man, 

30 BE 

big and delici 

dred firecrack 

I decided to b 

ing one in sev 

er showed, I 

few seconds m 

and the sensa 

wampee juice 

numerable tin 

know that's s 

strangely eno 

unbelievably f 

and squeal in 

the jackdaws 

sawgrass root 

bills toward t 

As the pa 

also to have b 

"All aroun 

by any sound 

ing of a frog, 

gator would b 

sion we canno 

As they pr 

what deeper. 

boats could f 

half. On the 

about five fee 

some five acr 

islands were m 

and more plen 

and on Decem 

then were in 

mouth at the 

schooner whic 

civilization. T 

taken 27 days 

in Shark Rive 














































now! 










even noticed. 





























it was like. 
























































































after having 

a glorious 


holiday. 























































suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda,


A VEG ET ABLE EMPIRE 209 

DEMOCRAT A VEG ET ABLE RIVER EMPIRE 31 

20930 B 

34 BEL 


Major Williams concludes his report by stating that big and delic 

firecrackers. Although CHAPTER I had THIRTY-ONE 

ELEVEN seen men taste wampee, 

the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast dred firecrac 

I decided to be smart CHAPTER and boil THIRTY-ONE 

the poison out. After cooking 

and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time I decided to 

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no long 

to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them ing one in se 


now! 

er showed, I 


few seconds m 



and the sens 





numerable ti 

Vegetable Empire 


wampee juic 

know that's so, A 

Ice 

and Vegetable those 

Delivery 

needles are Empire 

F.O.B. 

red hot to boot! Yet 

know that's 


But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was strangely eno 


like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition unbelievably 


gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he and squeal i 


never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork. the jackdaws 

A fleet of tractors turning the muck. 


Maybe the jungle A growth fleet of tractors was so turning dense the that muck. they weren't sawgrass roo 

bills toward Farms the here sky in while these their Everglades tongues nowadays cooled off. are large. 

even ground noticed. as fast as it could be pumped off, and dikes collapsed. 

as 

bills toward 

Large? Farms After all 

Good here these 

golly, in these years 

they're Everglades I reckon everybody 

huge! Right nowadays has 

near Belle are forgotten 

large. 

ground 

Glade 

You fast 

could as it 

pump could 

water be pumped 

off your off, 

land and dikes 

but there 

collapsed. 

"On the You 10th could day pump of November," water off he your relates, land "ere but there 


alone, just to name a few, we have the farms of Mrs. Ruth 

were not sufficient outlets for it to reach the sea. Water 

As the p 

Large? Captain Good F. M. golly, Benjamin, they're which huge! is Right not strange near Belle to be Glade sure, 


Wedgeworth, Sam Senter, Sam Knight and Double D. Each 

ran into windows in homes on the coast, cattle drowned 

also to have 

alone, for his just solitary to name claim a few, to fame we have was the his farms one premature of Mrs. Ruth attempt 

at progress. 

first were streaks not sufficient of dawn, outlets every man for in it to camp reach was the astir." sea. Water The 


Wedgeworth, one is over 5000 Sam acres, Senter, Belle Glade 

and Sam A. Duda Knight in those 

and and days, 

Sons Double and 

farm D. Chosen 

18,000. 

Each 

boats ran were 

or starved. into loaded windows and 

It was in for 

a homes a few 

tragic situation, hundred the coast, yards 

to be cattle were 

sure. 

drowned rowed "All arou 

by any sound of animal life of any description. The croak 

They all diversify with cane, cattle and vegetables, and of 

Two years later the Central and Southern by any sound 

one too, is back over in 5000 1922 acres, were and nothing A. Duda but and the Sons scattered farm clearings 18,000. 

up or the starved. stream. It Then was the a tragic oars were situation, stowed to away be sure. for the last 

Florida 

ing of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alli 

course, there are thousands of acres of sod farms which 

Flood Control District was organized. It immediately ing of a frog 

They of a all few diversify brave souls with in cane, this cattle custard and apple vegetables, swamp. and Roads of 

time "for Two poles years will later have the to be Central used for and many Southern miles to come. Florida went 

gator would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depres 

also raise cattle. 

to work, enlarging our main canals, erecting dikes, and gator would 

course, and railroads there are weren't thousands thought of acres of yet of but sod still farms there which were 

The Flood river Control has narrowed District down was organized. to a stream It immediately not more than went installing 

many enormous pump stations, one being the larg 

sion we cann 

sion we cannot avoid." 

The present prosperity of the Glades is due to two 

also some raise women, cattle. and those women craved for ice. Across the 

five to or work, six feet enlarging depth, our main dark, canals, sluggish erecting and with dikes, a slight and installing 

lake As 

events The they in 

which present Okeechobee progressed, 

followed prosperity and the in water 

those of Moore 

disasters the in Haven places Glades became were 

of floods, is due big somewhat 

events for deeper. icing 

high to plants 

taxes 

two 

perceptible est in the many current 

world. enormous running 

Now the pump north. 

Distict stations, The boughs 

is at work one being of the 

in the the trees 

Kissim 

largest 

over 

As they p 

and the which catfish, On 

Great followed the 21st but 

Depression, those they no 

which disasters fish found were ponds 

I mentioned of ever floods, in which shipped 

earlier. high their 

taxes from 

lap First 

mee in River the world. water, 

Valley, Now the 

the the vines 

source Distict form 

of most is a at perfect work of our in network 

flood the Kissimmee 

our 

to what deeper. 

waters. 

boats and was 

Belle the could 

the 

Glade, Great float 

Murphy 

which Depression, and 

Law, 

should that day 

by which have they 

which I stopped mentioned made 

large 

his a mile 

tracts earlier. dream and 

could First right a 

bar be 

In the River progress, 

Upper Valley, and 

Glades the to all source appearances 

600,000 of 

acres most when 

have of our we 

been flood approach 

set waters. boats could 

apart 

half. was there, On 

bought the but the 

for Murphy Captain 24th the 

very little. Law, Benjamin first 

The by dry which had ground a notion 

other large was 

was the tracts that discoveredabout 

bought in Belle five 

an 

first could ice plant 

compre 

be 

these In 

and the barriers 

protected Upper it seems Glades as 

for farming, 600,000 if the 

while acres end of 

1325 have the water 

square been set course 

miles apart half. On the 

beyond 

protected reached, 

hensive for feet Glade 

and very square, might 

practical little. and make 

flood The on him 

control other the an 28th was honest their 

plan. the buck. first 

Those first island, 

big comprehensive 

five 

has and been 

developers 

who and acres 

are reserved for but 

to farming, with a few 

conserve while strokes 

water 1325 of 

for cities square the machetes, 

on miles the coast, 

beyond 

and 

about five fe 

some bought practical in extent. 

under flood However 

the control 

on 

Murphy plan. December 

Act Those had big 3rd 

to developers 

who bought under the Murphy Act had to install 

resumed for 

the 

axes install 

for recreation, are hatchets reserved our 

and to way conserve is cleared, 

incidentally, water 

to for and 

keep cities our journey 

the on 

muck the coast, is some five ac 

from 

islands Just were why 

their own more he 

water numerous was called 

control systems, and Captain the water nobody 

ditches, courses rightly 

dikes and deeper seemed 

pumping 

stations, plentiful. Of course and On he that had 

burning. recreation, for a few 

And too, and yards 

the incidentally, until the next 

great Herbert to obstruction keep Hoover the Dike muck is reached, 

burning. sometimes 

now from islands were 

encircles 

the And a 

and to more know. 

they thought day a boat, they a 

that made thirty-six 

they fifteen foot 

were miles, cabin 

their own water control systems, ditches, dikes and safe. pumping 

stations, and they thought that they were of safe. 

But 

lake too, sunken 

to the prevent great log, the 

another Herbert roots 

hurricane Hoover of trees Dike extending 

disaster. now encircles 

the 

and more ple 

So 

and cruiser on 

bless December named Lil, 

goodness, 6th 

in they but heck, 

1947 travelled unless 

South Florida thirty-five, was had one for a licensed they 

the worst 

But 

across now the the whole 

flood lake channel, 

problem to prevent or the 

seems another branches 

to be hurricane of trees 

licked. 

disaster. which 

So and on Dece 

then steamboat were in man Shark or River, at least which the skipper they descended of a mailboat, to its a 

bless floods goodness, in its history. in 1947 In South the Glades Florida and had on one the of coast, the worst 

reach now the 

water 

If the surface 

you're flood problem of the water. 

interested seems We 

in farming, to be have licked. gone a couple of then were in 

and who isn't, let's 

mouth man at didn't the scarcely Gulf of rate Mexico. that title Here here. they But boarded regardless, the 

floods stood in over its the history. land In for the weeks. Glades It and was on four the coast, feet deep water 

miles when 

at 

take If a you're we discover 

look at interested that 

how these in the farming, river no 

Glades farmers and longer who exists, 

operate. isn't, but 

let's mouth at th 

You 

schooner Captain which he was, had a come sour to old meet bachelor them with for a the sad return moustache to 

stood Okeelanta, over the where land I for was weeks. desperately It was trying four feet to save deep my 

at 

has take lost 

might a itself 

get look in 

a at the 

few how dense 

surprises. 

these swamp Glades of farmers custard apples. operate. Our 

You schooner whi 

civilization. who lived aboard The entire his Lil, trip and from what Lake times Okeechobee he wasn't making had 

Okeelanta, 

1000 acres where of farm I land was and desperately pasture. trying Water seeped to save under 

my 

compass might is 

Don't get now, 

take a few and 

my surprises. will be until the end of our voyage, civilization. 

word for it, just look through the files 

taken a trip 27 days to Lauderdale and their with average a jag speed, of eggplants except for or the potatoes day 

our only of guide. 

U. S. We 

Fruit are 

and now 

Vegetable penetrating Market a 

News. portion of 

You'll the 

1000 acres of farm land and pasture. Water seeped under 

Don't take my word for it, just look through the files taken 27 day 

find 

in Shark River, had been only 31208 

three 28 miles a BELLE day. GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR state of BOWL which U. S. has Fruit never and been Vegetable done before DEMOCRAT Market by News. any RIVER white You'll man, 

find in Shark Riv 

208 75 

concludes his report by stating that part of this stream was dredged out some five years later 

When I first came to this lake thes 

re nothing more nor less than a vast to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

plentiful in the custard apple forest, 

and such they will remain for all time had intended to continue on to Shark River. It now forms 

were less luxuriant than the moon vine 

34 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL GLADE CREST 

B 


Okeelanta bec 

Haven, (a;d o 




ships like to 



Holland an 

Bolles, but ha 


ship 44 and R 






Master of Mas 


On this job 

the crew got 

swim the cana

34 34 34 BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL BOWL 

3031 

214 BELLE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

tating that big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hun 

One of our local farmers, and one who came up the 

han a vast dred firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee, 

hard way, is a woman, rather I should say a petite and 

for all time I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cook 

modest lady, Mrs. Ruth S. Wedgworth. In 1930 she came 

ld see them ing one in several waters until the lavender liquid no long 

to Belle Glade with her husband, Herman H., a patholer 


ogist at the Experiment Station, who was experimenting 


.from Lake 

with celery. Herman decided that he'd rather try raising 


the Ever 

it, so he resigned his job, and with little money but an 



crop was a total loss. The next was not much better. With 


some luck, plenty of borrowing and much sweat (Ruth 


admits that she once was reduced to picking beans), they 


gradually increased their acreage, and eventually built a 


packing house, a farm supply store and a fertilizer plant. 


In 1938, while installing an ice machine in his packing 


house, Herman was fatally injured. Ruth then took hold 


to run the heavily mortgaged farm and business ventures. 

s, "ere the As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed 

She seems to have done right well, for now her farm, 

astir." The also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence. 

packing house, and fertilizer factory are among the larg 

were rowed 

est "All in around the Glades. us reigns Meanwhile a death-like though, stillness she didn't unrelieved 

neglect 

for the last by her any family, sound of raising animal two life fine of any girls description. and a son, The George croak 

H., 

les to come. ing who of a helped frog, to the organize, hoot of an and owl, is now or the president bellow of the an alli 

Sugar 

more than gator Cane would Growers be a relief." Co-op, and This has caused held a other "feeling important of depres 

posi 

ith a slight sion tions we cannot besides. avoid." 

Ruth also has been active in civic affairs, 

of the trees 

having As they been progressed, a bank the director, water in member places of became the Hospital 

someiami 

Canal 

ample plenty of determination, he began to farm. The first 

network what to 

Board, deeper. and On one the of 21st the main they found supporters ponds of in her which church. 

their 

e approach boats could float and that day they made a mile and a 

ater course half. On Of the thirty 24th the or first more dry mule ground trains was in the discovered 

Glades, nine 

e machetes, about are owned five feet by square, A. Duda and and on Sons, the despite 28th their first fact that island, 

their 

journey some is 

packing five acres house in is extent. the largest However and on most December modern 3rd in the 

the 


and company more plentiful. are the largest On that celery day they growers made in fifteen the nation, miles, 

and 

rees which and one on of December the largest 6th farmers they travelled in the thirty-five, world. Besides for having they 

a couple then of 

five were farms, in ranches Shark River, and groves which in they Florida, descended they lease to its 

two 

exists, but mouth and a at half the million Gulf of acres Mexico. 

of land Here in Australia. they boarded This the 

Belle 

pples. Our schooner Glade operation which had alone come employs to meet them from for 300 the to return 500 people 

to 

islands Glades. were The more three numerous generations and of the Dudas water who courses comprise deeper 

this 

ur voyage, civilization. every day, The although entire to trip be sure, from these Lake migratory Okeechobee laborers 

had 

tion of the taken shift 27 from days job and to their job so average often speed, that the except annual for labor the day 

turn 

white man, in over Shark is River, some 700 had percent. 

been only three miles a day. 

Big Big Ben Ben tractor tractor and and experimental experimental plow. plow. 

I was I I was one one of of them, of them, set set up up up camp camp there, there, and and in in a in a few a few years years 

Okeelanta Okeelanta became became the the biggest biggest town, town, except except for for Moore Moore 

Haven, Haven, (a;d (a;d of of course, of course, Davie, Davie, back back of of of Ft. Ft. Lauderdale, the the 

first first one one of of all) of all) in in the in the whole whole dad dad burned burned Everglades. At At At 

first, first, though, though, it it looked it looked as as as if if if Glade Glade Crest Crest was was likely likely to to to 

eclipse eclipse Okeelanta, Okeelanta, but but floods floods and and frosts frosts and and frontier frontier hardshipships 

like like to to to have have finished finished them them both. both. Glade Glade Crest Crest has has 

vanished vanished without without a a trace, a trace, but but Okeelanta Okeelanta has has survived survived -- 

well, well, to to to a a certain a certain extent, extent, that that is. is. 

hard 

is. 

Holland Holland and and Butterworth, who who had had sold sold land land for for R. R. R. J. J. J. 

Bolles, Bolles, but but had had a a falling a falling out, out, bought bought from from the the Southern 

Southern 

States States Land Land and and Timber Timber Company Company all all all of of Section of Section 20, 20, Townshiship 

44 44 44 and and Range Range 38, 38, and and they they christened christened it it Glade it Glade Crest. Crest. 

This This land land they they then then sold sold in in five in five and and ten ten acre acre tracts, tracts, "sight "sight 

unseen", unseen", to to to people people in in in the the north. north. When When the the first first settlers 

settlers 

Town 

arrived arrived the the land land had had not not yet yet even even been been surveyed. surveyed. However, 

However, 

the the following following fall fall a a surveyor, a surveyor, Cleveland Cleveland W. W. Horne Horne arrived. 

arrived. 

In In In later later years years he he he was was to to to have have the the honor honor of of of being being Grand Grand 

Master Master of of of Masons Masons in in in Florida. Florida. Horne Horne ran ran a a line a line from from the the 

coast, coast, arid arid subdivided the the section section into into ten ten acre acre tracts. tracts. 

On On this this job, job, while while burning burning off off the the sawgrass, sawgrass, some some of of of 

the the crew crew got got surrounded by by by the the raging raging fire fire and and had had to to to 

swim swim the the canal. canal. That That wasn't wasn't so so bad, so bad, but but a a few a few days days later, later, 

GLADE GLADE CREST CREST 35 35 35 

DEMOCRAT A VEGETABLE RIVER EMPIRE 31 

215 

Major The Williams founder of concludes this clan his is report Andrew by Duda stating who that 

first 

the came Everglades to Slavia, "are near nothing Orlando, more where nor he less started than a farming 

vast 

and with useless one marsh, mule. When and such he they finally will acquired remain for a tractor all time 

his 

to gasoline come my was estimation." bought one Good drum golly, at a time-for he should see cash. them 

Now 

now! 

it's no uncommon thing for him to borrow a million or 

two at one clip. 


Okeechobee Everybody southward may not through want to the be length a big farmer, of the Everglades, 

see that yes, it and can the be last done, one even too, by until starting the Miami at the Canal 

bottom 

was rung surveyed on the some ladder. 

thirty years 

but you 

later. 







Okeelanta bec 

one one of of these of these same same boys, boys, while while far far from from the the settlement, got Haven, 

got 

(a;d o 

bitten bitten by by by a a moccasin. a moccasin. His His ankle ankle swelled swelled until until he he he couldn't 


couldn't 

work, work, so so so the the crew crew abandoned abandoned surveying surveying and and began began franticalltically 

to to to hack hack a a trail a trail through through the the head head high high sawgrass. eclipse Okeelan 

sawgrass. 


fran 

They They knew knew the the direction direction to to the to the settlement settlement but but with with grass ships like to 

grass 

so so high, so high, couldn't couldn't see see any any buildings. buildings. It It was It was pitch pitch dark dark when 


when 

they they got got to to the to the canal, canal, and and they they began began to to shout. to shout. Finally well, Finally a to a cert 

a a 

settler settler heard heard the the racket racket and and rescued rescued them them with with his his boat. boat. 

Holland an 

The The leg leg was was doctored doctored with with turpentine, the the nearest nearest thing thing to Bolles, to to but ha 

medicine medicine in in in the the camp. camp. 

The The boy boy must must have have been been pretty pretty 


tough tough for for the the leg leg got got well, well, but but he he he was was promoted promoted to to be to be be camp camp 

ship 44 and R 

cook cook after after that. that. 



By By the the winter winter of of 1914-15, of 1914-15, besides besides Slade, Slade, there there were were the 

arrived 

the 

the lan 

families families of of Baker, of Baker, Daniel, Daniel, Elsasser, Elsasser, Herndon, Herndon, Garrett, Garrett, Metcalcalf 

and and two two Bissell Bissell families families and and a a Mrs. a Mrs. Chisolm Chisolm who who was was 

sister sister to to to one one of of of the the Bissell Bissell ladies. ladies. Later, Later, Shields Shields and and his 

Met 


Master 

his 

of Mas 

son, son, who who had had some some boats boats and and barges, barges, started started a a little a little store, store, 


and and since since the the Hillsboro Hillsboro canal canal had had just just been been opened, opened, "Shortyty" 

Woods, Woods, in in in his his boat boat Bonnie Bonnie made made occasional occasional trips trips 

On this job 

"Shor 

down down it it to it to the to the coast. coast. Although Although this this route route was was far far shorter 

shorter the crew got 

than than by by by way way of of of Torry Torry Island Island and and down down the the canal canal to to to Ft. Ft. swim the cana 

even noticed. 

Sawgrass Sawgrass plow plow with with mouldboard mouldboard slatted slatted for for for better better scouring. scouring. 























34 BEL 


B


DEMOCRAT FLORIDA'S RIVER SUGAR BOWL 31 

217 29 

34 BEL 

big part and of delicious this stream potato, was but dredged it is out hotter some than five seven years hundred 

to become firecrackers. a part of Although the Thirteen I had Mile seen Canal men taste which wampee, Disston 

the plentiful 

later 

Major 

When 

Williams 

I first came 

concludes 

to this 

his 

lake 

report 

these 

by 

gourds 

stating 

still 

that 

were 

Everglades 

in the 

"are 

custard 

nothing 

apple 

more 

forest, 

nor 

although 

less than 

they 

a vast 

then 

I had decided intended to be to smart continue CHAPTER and on boil to THIRTY-TWO 

the 

TWELVE 

Shark poison River. out. It After now cooking 

part one of in the several Miami waters canal. until As this the stream lavender was liquid typical no of long 

the 

to 

forms 

and were useless luxuriant marsh, and than such the they moon will vine, remain 

a kind 

for 

of 

all 

morning time 

glory, 

come in 

which 

my estimation." 

completely blanketed 

Good golly, 

the 

he 

tops 

should 

and 

see 

the 

them 

exposed 


er lake's showed, dead I rivers, took one including cautious the bite Democrat, and spit let's it out. see In what a 

now! 

few it was seconds like. my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles, 

dusk And at so mid that day. was the first trip ever made .from Lake 



Okeechobee 

After cruising 

southward 

the 

through 

south shore 

the 

for. 

length 

nine 

of 

days 

the 

the 

Everglades, 



at the 

party 


arrived, 

yes, 

near 

and 

the 

the 

southernmost 

last one too, 

point 

until 

on 

the 

the 

Miami 

lake, 

Canal 


was largest 

surveyed 

and longest 

some thirty 

of all 

years 

these 

later. 


rivers. This they christened 

But T-D, let's or take Times-Democrat a closer look at River. what Democrat After traversing River was this 

do Travel not go one Florida's Could hundred yards Be Sugar 

before a Bold we hear Adventure 

Bowl 

exclamations 




like stream in those to its primeval end, they days. laid The a course scribe south of this by expedition the compass 



gives for Shark us a detailed River, ninety account, miles though away curiously by air line. enough, Although he 



never water mentions had evidently those ancient been five mounds feet over at the the river's land not fork. too 



Maybe long before, the jungle they growth found that was it so now dense was that a scant they five weren't inches, 



even and noticed. under that was fifteen feet, more or less, of soft mud. 


which As Travel Brother, 

the have party in if these you're 

twined penetrated Everglades, addicted to 

around the the trunks Everglades back using in sugar the and branches they old you seemed boating 

should 

of the 

"On So the now 10th they day are of compelled November," to battle he relates, the sharp-edged "ere the 

also days, come 

trees, to and have never here have been was to these so 

interlaced oppressed very Everglades. fast and by and the it Sugar 

wound uncanny sure as and heck molasses themselves silence. was seldom 

bring 

around 

first sawgrass, streaks which of dawn, they every had believed man in camp to be was only astir." ten miles The in 

comfortable. in $110 million 

each "All other around 

A until us 

trip to these they reigns 

to anywhere Glades each form a death-like 

might year, a screen which stillness 

turn so is unrelieved 

out let's 

to take 

be a 

almost sufficient 

any 

boats extent, were but loaded which and actually for a persisted few hundred clear yards to the were headwaters rowed 

by 

bold quick 

adventure, look at this 

sound to shut of out animal 

for you sugar 

the life 

never bowl. 

light of of any 

knew Back 

day. description. 

just in 

what 1922 Looking behind The 

might at Moore 

croaking 

happen 

Haven, 

us we 

up of the Shark stream. River. Then At the times oars they were were stowed able away to burn for the last 

sawgrass, 

"for but poles usually will have the way to be must used be for hacked many miles with to machetes. come. 

find of 

next, the 

that a frog, 

though first we the are hoot 

you feeble 

followed of 

could attempt 

an by owl, 

be pretty was 

innumerable or the 

dad made 

bellow 

blamed at producing 

alligators, of an 

sure alligator 

that 

Sugar-Cane Growers Cooperative of Florida mill. Left to rightwho 

time 

it sugar, more but 

are swimming would 

than the be a 

likely following 

lazily relief." 

wouldn't year 

along This in caused be pleasant. Canal Point 

our wake. a "feeling So when the first From all of sides depression 

I got successful 

a 

Offices, molasses tanks, A-shaped sugar storage warehouse 

we 

The For river many has days narrowed they were down compelled to a stream to push not and more lift than their 

chance see we them cannot 

to mill 

ride began plunging avoid." 

a railroad to operate. 

train I figured This company 

I'd get some was 

rapid 

taken 

( another has been built later) , sugar mill facing truck 

in the water, remain under for a few 

five boats or six every feet unloading foot of depth, ramp. the way, dark, Shop often for sluggish rolling 

making stock and only with at right. 

a a few slight hundred 

yards current in a day. running On November north. The 17th, boughs a week of the after trees leavwhahind 

This deeper. us. We was On do when the not 21st the go two they state miles found was before building ponds the in that which river old begins their muck 

lap miles, 

and over 

deluxe by the 

transportation. 

Southern Sugar Company, now the U. S. Sugar 

seconds, Corporation, As they rise progressed, after which we ground have the water passed its first in and places cane join became in the Clewiston crowd some 

be 

in 

perceptible 

ing over the the or a 

lake, water, block 

a tall the 171/2 

cypress vines miles 

at form on each 

Democrat a perfect side. 

River network Of this, 

was to 

270 

1929. Although this company owned some 100,000 acres 

still 

boats to levee get could narrow, along float the and whole and we that find south day ourselves shore they of in made the a little lake. a mile stream At the and only job's 

a 

bar square 

visible our progress, miles is 

to the naked and in 

to Palm 

eye. all appearances Beach County. 

of the best land around the lake, yet under the U. S. government's 

few On yards the 24th regulations, along in width, the the first southeast sunlight dry state ground shore, of completely Florida was I had discovered 

was shut operated permitted out by a 

these barriers Sugar is it now seems our as second if the largest end of agricultural the water crop, course 

em 

when we approach 

half. a beginning, Constantly they were plagued by innumerable snakes, 

about the floating to branches produce five clamshell feet only of square, trees nine-tenths dredge and for on vines, of the Captain one 28th which percent Scott their have of Holloway, first interlocked 

this island, 

nation's but 

has ploying been reached, 13,000 but workers with a during few strokes the harvest. of the In machetes, 

the Everglades 

and hatchets there are our nine way sugar is cleared, mills, and plus our one journey refinery is 

of 

some 

though fortunately, nobody was bitten. 

and twined five acres around in extent. each other However until a perfect December roof 3rd is formed 

so ... I was were After running more going numerous half the big a mile, towboat and we the find Leviathan water we courses are no for longer deeper him. On in 

resumed crystallized, for a few and yards one until of liquid the next sugar, obstruction and one is mill reach 

which 

the 

axes 

But they were 

now needs. his brother Hamp had the contract for the west end, 


islands 


and a our stream, more dipper plentiful. but dredge, winding On Hubie that around Boree day in they dark, was made craning sluggish fifteen for water, the miles, digger, 

on Gus and December Roberts. branches 6th Hubie of they craved travelled trees to forming go thirty-five, to West a barrier Palm for to Beach, they our 

across are the whole mills of channel, the United or the States branches Sugar of Corporation trees which 

in 

the 

ed, produces sometimes both. a sunken Largest log, in the the roots continental of trees United extending 

States 

and 


roots 

then 


further while were I progress wanted in Shark to ... visit River, As we my return which folks in we they Ft. examine Lauderdale, descended more to closely so its Cap 

reach Clewiston, the surface and of of the the water. Sugar We Cane have Growers gone a couple Cooperative of 

mouth 


the gave vines us at few the which days Gulf grow off so for Mexico. luxuriantly, Christmas. Here and they find boarded that they the are 

miles of when Florida, we in discover Belle Glade. that the The river Belle no Glade longer company, exists, but 

owned 

by fifty-two local farmers, is worth, together with its 

schooner a species which of gourd, had with come innumerable to meet them gourds for the hanging return from to 

has 


lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our 

The dredge's launch took us to the docks by the old 

civilization. them, perfectly The round, entire and trip about from the Lake size Okeechobee of a billiard had ball. 

compass Yes, is I now, know and blamed will be well until they the didn't! end of That our voyage, wampee 

taken 

Flat 

The vines 27 

Top 

days 

Cypress 

run and all their 

in Moore 

over average 

Haven. 

the trees, speed, 

From 

and on except 

here 

the ground for 

we 

the 

walked 

fleet of trucks and harvesting equipment, some $25 million. 

Last season (1966-67) it ground 1,142,000 tons of 

form day 

our was only a guide. hellish We plant, are nobody now penetrating would ever a portion taste it of twice! the 

in 

half 

a Shark 

a mile 

mat two River, 

to the 

or three had 

depot. 

been feet deep." only 

The 

three 

locomotive 

miles 

was 

a day. 

hooked on to 

state Indian cane, which turnip which has never it's produced called been up 113,312 done north. before tons It's by of tuber any raw white looks sugar, man, like and a 

79 

216 



However, when Fidel Castro took over Cuba, the Everglades 

reaped the benefit. For a short time our government 

permitted the unrestricted planting of sugar cane. 

Oh Brother, you should have seen how cow pastures and 

vegetable fields were plowed up and planted! Now we 

have 189,500 acres of sugar cane in these Glades. How 

many square miles is that? Well, even if you leave out all 

roads, ditches and pump stations, this would be 306 square 

34 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL GLADE CREST 

B 


Okeelanta bec 

Haven, (a;d o 




ships like to 

vanished with 


Holland an 

Bolles, but ha 


ship 44 and R 






Master of Mas 


On this job 

the crew got 

swim the cana 

concludes his report by stating that part of this stream was dredged out some five years later 

e nothing more nor less than a vast to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

When I first came to this lake these 

plentiful in the custard apple forest, al


7,135,000 gallons of molasses. This cane was grown on 

30,942 acres, which produced an average of 36.9 tons of 

cane, or 3.66 tons of sugar per acre. The grower received 

from the Co-op $9.87 per ton of cane, plus possibly a bonus 

from the government if the sucrose content exceeded a 

certain amount, and he had complied with the government's 

strict requirements. 

This mill in Belle Glade has been the first to ship raw 

sugar by water to the main refinery in Savannah. Two 

1090 ton barges make round trips each week. Since the 

capacity of the refineries is limited, and since the government 

allocates the amount of sugar which can be marketed, 

the mills must necessarily hold considerable sugar in 

storage. The Belle Glade mill has two 80 foot high A 

shaped warehouses which can hold 80,000 tons of sugar. 

At the present moment, near the end of the 1967-68 grinding 

season, both these warehouses are chock full. 

That 

means that there is now $11 million worth of sugar in two 

big heaps. 

Only in the Everglades, due to its long growing season, 

can you see sugar cane tasseling and going to seed, but 

this seed is used only in breeding new strains. On the 

farms the cane is planted by dropping short lengths of 

cane in furrows. Also, and different from Louisiana, the 

roots here never freeze, consequently cane may be cut 

from the same stubble for four or five years. 

Before being harvested, cane fields are fired to burn 

off the leaves (they have beards or stickers), then laborers 

with broad bladed cane knives cut and top the stalks and 

toss them into windrows. A loading machine picks up and 

delivers the stalks into tractor drawn wagons, four wagons 

to a train. These are driven onto a ramp, capable of being 

moved from field to field, where the cane is loaded into a 

highway truck holding 18 or 20 tons. At the mill this 

truck is automatically unloaded onto a conveyor, 40 percent 

going directly to the mill's crushers and rollers which 

extract the juice, the remainder being stockpiled for use 

FLORIDA'S SUGAR BOWL 219 

Six mill tandem crushers and rollers ( under railings) driven by 

1000 horsepower turbines. Glades Sugar House, Belle Glade. 

at night. The dry residue or bagasse is ordinarily burned 

for fuel, but in Belle Glade the Quaker Oats Company has 

an adjoining mill which extracts a chemical called furfurol, 

used in the manufacture of plastics and in refining 

lubricating oil. 

Cane juice, after leaving the rollers, is strained and 

purified, then heated and reduced to syrup which is cooked 

under vacuum until crystals are formed. Centrifugals separate 

the crystals from the molasses. The raw ugar is 

either loaded into waiting box cars, or is transported to 

the storage house, or a barge. 

Due to the uncertainty of getting sufficient labor at 

harvest time, desperate efforts are being made to perfect 

a machine to cut our cane. Such machines are used elsewhere, 

but due to our conditions, none have met here with 



















That 


big heaps. 























































That 


big heaps. 





































35 

scouring. 

tlement, got 

he couldn't 

began franh 

sawgrass. 

with grass 

dark when 

t. Finally a 

th his boat. 

est thing to 

been pretty 

to be camp 

re were the 

rrett, Metm 

who was 

lds and his 

little store, 

ned, "Shorional 

trips 

far shorter 

anal to Ft. 














































now! 










even noticed. 























31 

tating that 

han a vast 

for all time 

ld see them 

.from Lake 

the Everiami 

Canal 

t River was 

expedition 

enough, he 

iver's fork. 

hey weren't 

s, "ere the 

astir." The 

were rowed 

for the last 

les to come. 

more than 

ith a slight 

of the trees 

network to 

e approach 

ater course 

e machetes, 

journey is 


rees which 

a couple of 

exists, but 

pples. Our 

ur voyage, 

tion of the 

white man, 



















That 


big heaps. 









































































medicine in the camp. 

The boy must have been pretty 

























































now! 










even noticed. 




































































now! 










even noticed. 






















state which has never been done before by any white man,

try his luck at share cropping on Kreamg 

his family by wagon to Lakeport, then 




the lake, he farmed on Kreamer in 1916 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying by barge across the lake, he farmed on K 

3031 

220 5028 BELLE 


BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM FROM SW SW AMP SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR TO SUGAR BOWL 

BOWL BOWL 

DEMOCRAT FLORIDA'S DEMOCRAT RIVER SUGAR RIVER BOWL 31 

221 5030 29 B 

stating that big and part delicious of this stream potato, was but dredged it is hotter out some than five seven years hunlatedred 

to firecrackers. become a part Although of the Thirteen I had seen Mile men Canal taste which wampee, Disston 

than a vast 

for all time I decided had intended to be smart to continue and boil on the to poison Shark out. River. After It now cooking 

one part in of several the Miami waters canal. until As the this lavender stream liquid was typical no long 

of the 

forms 

ld see them 

er showed, lake's dead I took rivers, one cautious including bite the and Democrat, spit it let's out. see In a what 

few seconds it was like. my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles, 

.from Lake 


the Everiami 

Canal depth of water being about eight feet. To say that our 









expedition unbelievably Machine picking fat on up it. cane A sawgrass and loading hog into would wagons. eat Man a wampee 

walking in 


enough, and he squeal in pain, rear but picks then up the he'd stalks root missed. up another. Even 




hey weren't sawgrass complete roots, 

growth success. would 

of trees, Consequently, peck a wampee, 

presenting to all 

the cane 

view is then 

a cut gape 

solid by imported their 

green wall, 

bills labor toward impenetrable from the Jamaica, sky while 

to the under their 

eye. contract tongues 

This wall with, cooled 

is formed and off. 

under the 

by vines, 

s, "ere the 

supervision As 

which 

the 

have 

party of 

twined the penetrated British 

around government. the 

the 

Everglades 

trunks These 

and 

they 

branches men seemed 

are 

of understandably 

the 

astir." The also trees, 

to have 

and 

been 

have quite oppressed 

interlaced proud of by their 

and uncanny nationality. 

wound themselves 

silence. 

"I am British 

"All each ob-ject. around other I 

around 

were rowed 

until us belong reigns they to a form de death-like queen. 

a screen My stillness home 

which in unrelieved is Jam-aica, 

almost sufficient 

!" sound to of shut animal out the life light of any of description. day. Looking The behind croak 

us we 

for the last by mon any 

iles to come. ing of find a frog, that the we are hoot followed of an owl, by or innumerable the bellow alligators, of an alli 

At home in Jamaica these cane cutters would earn $14 who 

more than gator are would swimming be a relief." lazily This along caused in our a wake. "feeling From of all depres 

a week. Here the average for all cane cutters was $57.17. sides we 

ith a slight sion we see cannot them plunging avoid." 

However, those who in worked the water, full time remain earned under $80. for The a few 

of the trees 

average 

As seconds, they for 

progressed, rise the after five month's we the have water season passed in places is and between join became the $1500 

somewhat 

to 

$1640, hind deeper. but us. On We the 

crowd and be 

network the do champion not 21st go they two cane 

found miles cutter 

ponds before earned 

in the which $2191, river their begins 

for 

e approach boats which 

to could get he narrow, float was presented 

and that we find with 

day ourselves they a silver 

made in plated a little mile cane stream and knife 

a only 

ater course half. and a On few a $100 the yards 24th bill. in the width, first the dry sunlight ground completely was discoveredabout 

the five branches feet square, of trees and and on the vines, 28th which their have first island, interlocked 

shut out by 

e machetes, 

journey some is and A five year twined acres ago, around in due extent. to each pressure However other from until on certain December a perfect labor roof 3rd unions is the formed 

the were ... National After more going numerous Council half of a and mile, Churches, the we water find Secretary we courses are no deeper 

of longer Agri 

in 


and culture more a stream, plentiful. Willard but winding Wirtz On that refused around day they to in dark, certify made sluggish fifteen sufficient miles, water, imthe 

trees which and ported on roots December labor. and branches Farmers 6th they in of the travelled far trees West forming thirty-five, who had a barrier been for they 

using to our 

islands a couple then of 

Mexicans, further were in were progress Shark nearly ... River, ruined. As we which return Some they even we descended examine transferred more to their its closely 

exists, but mouth farming the at vines the operations which Gulf grow of to Mexico. so luxuriantly, The Here ban they and struck find boarded that here they near are 

apples. Our schooner the a end species which of the of had gourd, cane come harvest. with to innumerable meet In spite them of for gourds frantic the return hanging and wide to from 

ur voyage, civilization. spread them, efforts perfectly The to entire recruit round, trip and domestic from about Lake labor, the size Okeechobee local of negroes a billiard had 

refused 

The 27 to days vines do and this run their strenuous all over average the work. trees, speed, It and was except on much the for ground the easier day 

to form 

ball. 

tion of the taken white man, in live Shark a on mat relief. River, two or The had three result been feet only was deep." three that our miles mills a day. 

couldn't oper- 

ate Major at capacity, When 

Williams cane 

I first 

concludes damaged 

came to this 

his by report frost 

lake these 

by could stating not be 

gourds still 

that 

cut 

were 

big and delic 

the before Everglades it soured, plentiful in 

"are and 

the 

nothing some cane 

custard apple 

more was 

forest, 

nor left less standing 

although 

than a 

they 

vast 

in the 

then 

dred firecrac 

and fields. useless 

were The 

less 

marsh, Belle 

luxuriant 

and Glade such 

than Co-op they 

the estimated 

moon 

will remain 

vine, that a 

for this 

kind 

all had 

of 

time 

cost 

morning I decided to 

to its come 

glory, growers in my 

which 

estimation." nearly 

completely half Good a million 

blanketed 

golly, dollars. he 

the 

should 

tops However, see 

and 

them 

the this ing 

exposed 

flanks of the custard apple woods, making cutters of 

one in se 

now! 

past season Secretary Wirtz relented, but for a shadowy 

er showed, I 

cane 

dusk only, 

at not 

mid for 

day. 

celery. Consequently our mill has broken few seconds m 


some world's records, both for a single day's grinding and and the sens 

Okeechobee southward through the length of the Ever 

for a week's. After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party wampee juic 

glades, yes, and the last one too, until the Miami 

arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, 

Canal 

at numerable the t 

was surveyed Now our some cane thirty growers years are later. 

faced with another threat. 

largest and longest of all these rivers. This they christen 

Under the terms of the Sugar Act, quotas are established 

know that's 

But ed let's T-D, take or a Times-Democrat closer look what River. Democrat After traversing River was this 

for all domestic sugar producing areas, which include 

strangely eno 

like in stream those to primeval its end, days. they laid The a scribe course of south this expedition by the compass unbelievably 

Florida, Louisiana, Hawaii, Puerto Rico and twenty-four 

gives for us a Shark detailed River, account, ninety though miles away curiously by air enough, line. Although he and squeal i 

beet sugar states. These areas normally receive about 65 % 

never water mentions had those evidently ancient been mounds five feet at over the river's the land fork. not the too jackdaws 

of the U. S. market, although last year domestic produc 

Maybe long the before, jungle they growth found was that so it dense now was that a they scant weren't five inches, sawgrass roo 

tion supplied only 57 % . Puerto Rico has consistently fail 

even and noticed. under that was fifteen feet, more or less, of soft mud. bills toward 

ed to fill its quota, but instead of allocating this and other 

deficits "On the So to now 10th mainland they day of are producers, November," compelled it is to he being battle relates, given the "ere to sharp-edged foreign 

the As the p 

first countries. streaks sawgrass, of Yet which dawn, due to they every better had man believed growing camp to methods, was be only astir." improved 

ten The miles also in to have 

boats strains extent, were and loaded but good which and weather, for actually a few Florida persisted hundred growers clear yards to have were the increased 

headwaters 

rowed "All arou 

up their of stream. per-acre Shark Then River. production the At oars times until were they there stowed were is away able a surplus to for burn the of last the sugar 

sawgrass, 

"for hand. poles but But will usually instead have the to of be way reducing used must for be imports many hacked miles from with to come. foreign 

machetes. ing of a frog 

by any sound 

time on The nations, river For many has the narrowed Florida days they and down were Louisiana to compelled a stream cane to growers not push more and (but than lift not 

their gator would 

five Hawaii or boats six nor every feet the in foot depth, beet of growers) the dark, way, sluggish often are being making and with penalized. 

only a a slight few hundred 

yards current in a running day. On north. November The boughs 17th, a of week the after trees leavAs they p 

sion we cann 

perceptible 

Since 1964, the last year of unrestricted planting, the 

lap over ing the water, lake, a the tall vines cypress form at a Democrat perfect network River was to what still deeper. 

bar 

Florida our visible progress, 

growers to the and 

had naked to all 

to eye. appearances 

reduce acreage when 

by we 

16 approach 

% in 1967, 

boats could 

these by 5 

barriers % in 1968, 

it seems and a 

as further 

if the cut 

end of 

of 22.5 

the % 

water is threatened 

course half. On the 

has for 

been 1969, Constantly 

reached, which 

but means they 

with 

were that a few 

plagued an strokes original by 

of 

innumerable planting the machetes, 

of snakes, 

100 

about five fe 

axes acres and 

though would hatchets 

fortunately, be reduced our way 

nobody to is only cleared, 

was 62. 

and 

bitten. 

our journey 

But they 

is 

were 

some five ac 

resumed 


Transferring for a few yards Puerto until Rico's the next deficit obstruction to foreign is reach 

nations, 

islands were 

ed, 


while sometimes cutting a sunken back on log, domestic the roots acreage of trees would extending 

result in 

and more ple 

across 


more the money whole being channel, spent or in the foreign branches countries, of trees while which 

less 

and on Dece 

reach 


would the be surface collected of the in taxes water. here. We have It would gone result a couple also, of 

in 

then were in 

miles 


further when migration we discover of that farm the labor river to no the longer cities, exists, but but 

worst 

mouth at th 

has 


of lost all, itself many in farmers the dense who swamp have of invested custard heavily apples. in Our 

land 

schooner whi 

compass and machinery Yes, is now, I know and as will well blamed be as until in well the the they sugar end didn't! of mills, our That would voyage, wampee 

un 

civilization. 

our doubtedly only was guide. a face hellish We ruin, are plant, and now in nobody penetrating all probability would a ever portion some taste mills, of it the 

both 

twice! taken 27 day 

state in Indian which Louisiana has turnip and never it's here, been called would done up before north. forced by It's any to tuber close. 

white looks man, like in a Shark Riv

222 222 BELLE BELLE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL BOWL 

But But Big Big Brother knows knows best, best, so so what what the the heck! heck! Maybe 

we'll we'll all all get get a a Guaranteed Minimum Wage Wage and and then then nobodbody 

will will have have to to worry worry ! 

no 

! 

CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE 

CHAPTER CHAPTER FIFTEEN SIX 

Drainage, 

The Chosen 

Roads and 

Place 

Taxes 

From Swamp to to Sugar Bowl 

LADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL 

otato, but it is hotter than seven hunlthough 

I had seen men taste wampee, 

I've done told you how those first settlers met under 

the 

I 

trees 

can't 

to 

tell 

hold 

you 

their 

about 

Sunday 

Belle 

school. 

Glade 

Well, 

without 

a side 

including 

result 

Chosen. 

of these 

In 

Sunday 

one manner 

get togethers 

of speaking, 

was the 

Chosen 

formation 

is now 

of a 

part 

civic 

of 

organization. 

Belle Glade, yet 

They 

in another 

called it 

way 

the 

it's 

Hillsboro 

not. While 

Community 

the first 

people Council, were and settling it was more in the important Belle Glade than you area, might 

another suspect. 

It 

colony was 

had 

starting 

a heap 

nearer 

to do 

to 

with 

the lake. 

getting 

Unlike 

that 

Belle 

first 

Glade, 

school 

Chosen 

and the 

had 

post 

an 

office, 

active 

even 

promoter, 

an experiment 

and for a 

station, 

while it 

and 

even 

the 

seemed 

first drainage 

that Chosen 

district 

might 

and 

be the 

also 

leading 

the highway 

town. Believe 

from 

me 

the 

brother, 

coast. Why, 

jealousy 

it even 

was 

originated 

keen. Yet 

the 

now, 

slogan, 

Belle 

"Her 

Glade 

Soil is 

is 

Her 

a 

fair 

Fortune," 

sized city, 

still 

while 

used 

Chosen 

by the 

still 

city 

is 

till 

not 

this 

incorporated. 

day. 

Those 

folks 

At 

sure 

one 

as 

of 

heck 

the 

don't 

meetings 

want 

of 

to 

the 

be city slickers. 

Hillsboro Community 

Council, While Henry the people F. Pierce down announced the canal were that he'd doing read about that and the 

getting state was organized, considering Hans the Stein, establishment the original of an settler agricultural at the 

lake experiment end of the station canal was in the busily south tending part to of his the own state. affairs, Why 

locking not, asked boats Mr. through Pierce, from have the that lake built with right one here hand in while Belle 

he Glade? cleared This up idea elder seemed land with so farfetched the other, that until he he was became ridiculed, 

of the but big he farmers persisted. on Pierce the shore. and Stein, Greer originally then composed from 

one 

Courland, a letter, which on the was Baltic written sea, had by come the Council's from Wisconsin secretary, to 

Manatee young Bill where Walters, he was and trying mailed to raise off to celery, the governor. until Wagner This 

persuaded epistle stated him that to try since his the luck Everglades at share cropping was rapidly on Kreamer 

settled, Island. that Moving it had his a family great potential, by wagon but to since Lakeport, there then were 

getting 

by so barge many across unsolved the problems lake, he in farmed farming on this Kreamer sawgrass in 1916 coun- 

After After reading the the first first part part of of this this chronicle you you might might 

get get the the mistaken idea idea that that Belle Belle Glade Glade is is still still a a frontier 

town town in in the the custard apple apple woods, but but folks, folks, it's it's come come a a 

far far piece piece since since those those old old days. days. Now Now it's it's a right a right peart, peart, good good 

sized sized city, city, with with all all the the modern inconveniences and and every every 

discomfort of of civilization. The The Chamber of of Commerce 

boasts boasts that that this this city's city's population is is 21,000 21,000 people, though 

a couple a couple of of thousand more more get get their their mail mail at at the the post post office office 

here. here. We We have have mighty fine fine city city water, water, for for it's it's pumped 

directly from from the the big big lake, lake, and and since since it's it's nary nary a bit a bit of of 

trouble on on this this muck muck to to have have a a beautiful lawn, lawn, attractive 

homes homes on on well well paved paved streets are are everywhere. This This really really 

is is a right a right nice nice city, city, neither too too large large nor nor yet yet too too small. small. 

Let Let me me tell tell you you what what it's it's like. like. 

Schools we we have have in in plenty, and and churches too, too, seven seven of of them them at latest latest count. count. The The City City Hall Hall houses a a 

twenty 

police police department of of thirty-two members, also also the the fire fire de 

department, 

whose whose four four pumper trucks trucks and and a a station wagon wagon 

are are manned by by twelve paid paid men men plus plus a crew a crew of of volunteers. 

223 223 


172 98 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP T 


the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast

try his luck at share cropping on Kreamg 

his family by wagon to Lakeport, then 




the lake, he farmed on Kreamer in 1916 

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying by barge across the lake, he farmed on 

3028 3128 50 BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL they had not right to rent the land to negroes, but pardnr, 

BOWL 

DEMOCRAT RIVER RIVER 3129 

50 29 

226 BELLE GLADE FROM SWAMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 

226 226 BELLE BELLE GLADE GLADE FROM FROM SWAMP SWAMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL BOWL 

stating that big part part and of of delicious this this stream potato, was was but dredged it is out hotter out some some than five five seven years years hundred 

to to firecrackers. become a part a part of Although of the the Thirteen I had Mile seen Mile Canal men Canal taste which wampee, 

Disston 

later later 

than a vast 

for all time I had decided had intended to be to smart to continue and on boil on to the to Shark Shark poison River. out. It After It now now cook 

forms 

ld see them ing part part one of in of the several the Miami waters canal. until As As this the this lavender stream was was liquid typical no of longer 

lake's showed, lake's dead dead I took rivers, one including cautious the bite the Democrat, and spit let's it let's out. see see In what what a 

of the the 

few it was it seconds was like. like. my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles, 

.from Lake 


the Everiami 

Canal depth depth of of water water being being about about eight eight feet. feet. To To say say that that our 

"The "The river river at at its its mouth is is about about 100 100 yards yards wide, wide, the the 



our 

little little party party was was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We 


do do not not go go one one hundred yards yards before we we hear hear exclamations 


from from the the members of of the the party party in in praise of of the the beautiful 


scenery which which greets the the eye eye on on every every side. side. There There is is no no 


perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The The water water is 


is 

iver's fork. 

clear clear as as crystal, the the banks banks fringed with with a a dense dense tropical 


growth of of trees, trees, presenting to to the the view view a solid a solid green green wall, wall, 


impenetrable to to the the eye. eye. This This wall wall is is formed by by vines, vines, 

s, "ere the which which 

As the have have 

party twined 

penetrated around the the 

the Everglades 

trunks and and they 

branches 

seemed of of the the 

astir." The also 

trees, trees, 

to 

and 

have 

and have 

been 

have oppressed 

interlaced and 

by 

and 

the wound 

uncanny themselves 

silence. 

around 

were rowed each each "All other around other until until us they reigns they form form a death-like a a screen stillness which is is unrelieved almost suf 

sufficient 

sound to to shut shut of out animal out the the light life light of of any of day. day. description. Looking The behind croak 

us us we we 

for the last by any 

iles to come. ing find find of that a that frog, we we the are are hoot followed of an by owl, by innumerable or the bellow alligators, of an alligator 

are are would swimming be a lazily relief." lazily along along This in in caused our our wake. a "feeling From From all of all sides depres 

sides we we 

who who 

more than 

ith a slight sion see see we them them cannot plunging avoid." 

in the the water, remain under under for for a few a few 

of the trees 

As seconds, they rise progressed, rise after after we we have the have water passed in and places and join join became the the crowd somewhat 

to hind hind deeper. us. us. We We On do do the not not 21st go go two they two miles found miles ponds before the in the which river river their begins 

be 

be 

network 

e approach boats to to get get could narrow, float and and we we that find find day ourselves they in made in a little a a little mile stream and only a only 

ater course half. a few a few On yards the yards 24th in in the width, first the the dry sunlight ground completely was discoveredabout 

the the five branches feet of square, of trees trees and and on vines, vines, the 28th which their have have first interlocked island, 

shut shut out out by by 

e machetes, 

journey some is and and five twined acres around in extent. each each other However other until until on a a December perfect roof roof 3rd is is formeed 

... ... were After After more going going numerous half half a mile, a mile, and we the we find water find we we are courses are no no deeper longer in in 

the form 


and a a more stream, plentiful. but but winding On that around day in they in dark, dark, made sluggish fifteen water, miles, the the 

islands 

trees which and roots roots on and December and branches 6th of they of the trees travelled trees forming thirty-five, a a barrier for to they to our our 

a couple then of 

further were progress in Shark ... ... River, As As we we which return we they we examine descended more more to closely its 

exists, but mouth the the vines vines at the which Gulf grow grow of so Mexico. so luxuriantly, Here and and they find find boarded that that they they are are 

apples. Our schooner a a species which of of gourd, had with come with to innumerable meet them gourds for the hanging return from to from 

ur voyage, civilization. them, them, perfectly The entire round, and trip and about from about the Lake the size size Okeechobee of of a a billiard had ball. ball. 

tion of the taken The The vines 27 vines days run run and all all their over over average the the trees, trees, speed, and and on except on the the for ground the form day form 

white man, in a Shark mat a mat two River, two or or three had three been feet feet only deep." three miles a day. 

Glades branch of of the the County Court Court House. 

Glades branch of the County Court House. 

Glades branch of the County Court House. 

he soars for hours with nary a flap of his outstretched 

he he soars soars for for hours hours with with nary nary a a flap flap of of his his outstretched 

wings, and nothing escapes his observation. outstretched 

wings, wings, and and nothing nothing escapes escapes his his observation. observation. 

Just imagine soaring on a buzzard's wings above the 

Just Just imagine imagine soaring soaring on on a a buzzard's buzzard's wings wings above above the 

Everglades in the endless sky of time. Looking backward, the 

Everglades Everglades in in the the endless endless sky sky of of time. time. Looking Looking backward, 

you can see those naked Calusas as they build their backward, 

mounds 

you you can can see see those those naked naked Calusas Calusas as as they they build build their their mounds 

and carve those objects of wood and bone. You watch mounds 

as 

and and carve carve those those objects objects of of wood wood and and bone. bone. You You watch watch as 

the clanking, roaring dredge boats dig canals from Lake as 

the the clanking, clanking, roaring roaring dredge dredge boats boats dig dig canals canals from from Lake Lake 

Okeechobee to the coast, through the bordering woods and 

Okeechobee Okeechobee to to the the coast, coast, through through the the bordering bordering woods woods and 

the boundless watery sawgrass. Then come the gator hunters, 

and the first venturesome settlers who built their hunt 

tar 

and 

the the boundless boundless watery watery sawgrass. sawgrass. Then Then come come the the gator gator huntersers, 

and and the the first first venturesome venturesome settlers settlers who who built built their their tar 

paper shacks and cleared tar 

paper 

patches for their vegetables. You 

paper shacks shacks and and cleared cleared patches patches for for their their vegetables. vegetables. You You 

may see some sweaty farmer battling his tractor which 

may may see see some some sweaty sweaty farmer farmer battling battling his his tractor tractor which 

refuses to run, or maybe it's bogged down in some which gator 

refuses refuses to to run, run, or or maybe maybe it's it's bogged bogged down down in in some some gator gator 

hole. Giant pigweeds, twenty feet in height shut off the 

hole. hole. Giant Giant pigweeds, pigweeds, twenty twenty feet feet in in height height shut shut off off the 

breeze while mosquitoes stab and sting, and swarms the 

breeze of 

breeze while while mosquitoes mosquitoes stab stab and and sting, sting, and and swarms swarms of 

gnats buzz in his eyes, his nose and ears as the summer of 

gnats gnats buzz buzz in in his his eyes, eyes, his his nose nose and and ears ears as as the the summer 

sun beams down with fervent heat. You watch the summer freight 

sun sun beams beams down down with with fervent fervent heat. heat. You You watch watch the the freight 

boat man as he wrestles drums of gasoline, 200 freight pound 

boat boat man man as as he he wrestles wrestles drums drums of of gasoline, gasoline, 200 200 pound pound 

sacks sacks of potatoes or lumber for a house. Sleep is a com 

sacks of of potatoes potatoes or or lumber lumber for for a a house. house. Sleep Sleep is is a a commodity 

the 

modity he dreams about while trying to stay awake at commodity 

he he dreams dreams about about while while trying trying to to stay stay awake awake at at the the 

steering steering wheel. 

steering wheel. wheel. 

FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL 227 

FROM FROM SW SW AMP AMP TO TO SUGAR SUGAR BOWL 227 

BOWL 227 

While over the lake you'll watch the crews of catfish 

While While over over the the lake lake you'll you'll watch watch the the crews crews of of catfish 

men as they haul their seines, chest deep in that catfish 

chilly 

men men as as they they haul haul their their seines, seines, chest chest deep deep in in that that chilly chilly 

water, at dawn and at first dark. And the women too, you'll 

water, water, at at dawn dawn and and at at first first dark. dark. And And the the women women too, too, you'll 

see them fill their lamps with kerosene and contrive you'll 

to 

see see them them fill fill their their lamps lamps with with kerosene kerosene and and contrive contrive to 

cook a meal's victuals from rations that won't to 

cook cook a a meal's meal's victuals victuals from from rations rations that that won't spoil, in 

won't spoil, spoil, in 

those days of no ice and no refrigeration. You'll observe, in 

those those days days of of no no ice ice and and no no refrigeration. You'll You'll observe, 

amazed, as seventy-two voters incorporate the town observe, 

when 

amazed, amazed, as as seventy-two seventy-two voters voters incorporate incorporate the the town town when 

they didn't intend to do so, and you'll be horrified to when 

see 

they they didn't didn't intend intend to to do do so, so, and and you'll you'll be be horrified horrified to to see 

new town devastated see 

the the new new town town devastated when a hurricane-lashed lake 

devastated when when a a hurricane-lashed lake 

breaks down the levee. 

lake 

breaks breaks down down the the levee. levee. 

And then you'll observe little settlements spring up 

And And then then you'll you'll observe observe little little settlements settlements spring spring up up 

around the lake. Railroads and highways are built and settlements 

grow into towns and cities. Floods and ground 

set 

around around the the lake. lake. Railroads Railroads and highways highways are are built built and and settlementtlements 

grow grow into into towns towns and and cities. cities. Floods Floods and and groundburninburning 

droughts droughts at at last last are are controlled. controlled. Vegetable Vegetable patches 

groundburning 

droughts at last are controlled. Vegetable patches 

now are farms of many thousand acres. patches 

now now are are farms farms of of many many thousand thousand acres. acres. 

All this you've seen while soaring on buzzard's wings 

All All this this you've you've seen seen while while soaring soaring on on buzzard's buzzard's wings wings 

in the endless sky of time. Yes, and I have seen it too, 

in in the the endless endless sky sky of of time. time. Yes, Yes, and and I I have have seen seen it it too, 

from those days when the first canal was being dug where too, 

from from those those days days when when the the first first canal canal was was being being dug dug where where 

Belle Glade is, and when this country was nearabout inaccessible. 

When it was inhabited only by varmints inac 

and 

Belle Belle Glade Glade is, is, and and when when this this country country was was nearabout nearabout inaccessiblecessible. 

When When it it was was inhabited inhabited only only by by varmints varmints and and 

mosquitoes, right up till now when Belle Glade is a right 

mosquitoes, mosquitoes, right right up up till till now now when when Belle Belle Glade Glade is is a a right 

nice city, and these Everglades are the bread basket right 

and 

nice nice city, city, and and these these Everglades Everglades are are the the bread bread basket basket and 

the sugar bowl of the nation. Things have changed a right and 

the the sugar sugar bowl bowl of of the the nation. nation. Things Things have have changed changed a a right 

smart in just one lifetime, and that's for sure. right 

smart smart in in just just one one lifetime, lifetime, and and that's that's for for sure. sure. 

So 

So nowadays we labor only for eight hours in air-conditioned 

So nowadays nowadays we we labor labor only only for for eight eight hours hours in in air-conditioned 

comfort, with TV and radio for our amuseditioned 

comfort, comfort, with with TV TV and and radio radio for for our our amuse 

air-conment. 

Insteac1 of a six-mile-an-hour motor boat, we amusement. 

Insteac1 Insteac1 of of a a six-mile-an-hour motor motor boat, boat, we we travel travel 

with 

travel 

ment. 

with the speed of wind, and each year we take a few weeks 

with the the speed speed of of wind, wind, and and each each year year we we take take a a few few weeks 

off for recreation. 

weeks 

off off for for recreation. recreation. 

But 

But brother, let's not forget those muck-covered pioneers 

But brother, brother, let's let's not not forget forget those those muck-covered pioneers 

who made these conditions possible, those bold men, 

neers who who made made these these conditions conditions possible, possible, those those bold bold men, 

pio 

and women too, who ventured into this unknown wilderness. 

They experimented with one crop and another, wilder 

men, 

and and women women too, too, who who ventured ventured into into this this unknown unknown wilderness. 

with 

ness. They They experimented with with one one crop crop and and another, another, with 

this method and that, until they learned to farm these with 

this this method method and and that, that, until until they they learned learned to to farm farm these these 

Glades. 

Glades. From early dawn till dark they labored, with hoes 

Glades. From From early early dawn dawn till till dark dark they they labored, labored, with with hoes 

and push plows and machetes, with experimental plows hoes 

and push push plows plows and and machetes, machetes, with with experimental plows 

and homemade tractors. 

plows 

and and homemade homemade tractors. tractors. 

Major 

When When 

Williams 

I first I first came 

concludes 

came to to this this 

his 

lake lake 

report 

these these 

by gourds 

stating 

still still 

that 

were were 

the plentiful 

Everglades 

in in the the 

"are custard 

nothing 

apple apple 

more forest, 

nor less 

although 

than 

they 

a 

they 

vast 

then then 

and 

were were 

useless 

less less marsh, 

luxuriant 

and 

than than 

such 

the the 

they 

moon moon 

will 

vine, vine, 

remain 

a kind a kind 

for 

of 

all 

of morning 

time 

to 

glory, 

come 

glory, 

in 

which which 

my estimation." completely Good 

blanketed 

golly, 

the 

he 

the tops 

should 

tops and 

see 

and the 

them 

the exposeposed 

flanks of of the the custard apple apple woods, making a a shadowy 

ex 

now! 

dusk And dusk at so at mid that mid day. day. was the first trip ever made .from Lake 

Okeechobee 

After southward 

the 

through 

south shore 

the 

for. 

length 

nine 

of 

days 

the 

the 

Everglades, 

yes, and the last one too, until the Miami near the point on the lake, 

After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party party 

Canal 

arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, at at the the 


largest and and longest of of all all these these rivers. This This they they ed But ed T-D, T-D, let's or take or Times-Democrat a closer look what River. Democrat After After traversing River was this this 

christen 

like stream in those to to its primeval its end, end, they they days. laid laid The a a scribe course south of south this by by the expedition the compass 

gives for for Shark us Shark a detailed River, account, ninety miles miles though away away curiously by by air air line. enough, line. Although he 

never water water mentions had had evidently those ancient been been five mounds five feet feet over at over the the the river's land land not fork. not too too 

Maybe long long the before, jungle they they growth found found that was that it so it now now dense was was that a scant a scant they five weren't five inches, 

even and and noticed. under under that that was was fifteen feet, feet, more more or less, less, of soft soft mud. mud. 

"On So So the now now 10th they they day are are of compelled November," to to battle he battle relates, the the "ere sharp-edged the 

first sawgrass, streaks which of which dawn, they they every had had man believed in camp to to be be was only only astir." ten ten miles miles The in in 

boats extent, were but but loaded which which and actually for a few persisted hundred clear clear yards to to the were the headwaters rowed 

up of the of stream. Shark River. Then At the At times times oars they were they were stowed were able able away to to burn for burn the the last sawgrassgrass, 

"for but poles but usually will have the the way to way be must used must be for be many hacked miles with with to machetes. come. 

saw 

time 

The For For river many many has days days narrowed they they were were down compelled to a stream to to push push not and more and lift lift than their their 

five boats boats or six every every feet foot in foot of depth, of the the way, dark, way, often sluggish often making and only with only a few a slight few hundredred 

yards yards current in in a day. a running day. On On north. November The 17th, 17th, boughs a week a week of the after after trees leav 

leav 

hun 

perceptible 

lap ing ing over the the the lake, lake, water, a a tall tall the cypress vines at form at Democrat a perfect River River network was was still to still 

bar visible our progress, to to the the naked and naked to eye. all eye. appearances when we approach 


has been Constantly 

reached, 

they 

but 

they were 

with 

were 

a few 

plagued 

strokes 

by by of 

innumerable 

the machetes, 

snakes, 

axes though 

and hatchets fortunately, 

our way 

nobody 

is cleared, 

was was bitten. 

and our 

But But 

journey 

they they were 

is 

were 

by and resumed 

tortured 

for a 

by 

few 

mosquitoes, 

yards until the 

leeches 

next 

and 

obstruction 

poisonous 

is reached, 

sometimes 

wampee 

plants "which 

a sunken 

produce 

log, 

a a the 

terrible 

roots burning 

of trees sensation. 

extending 

Its Its 

across appearance 

the whole 

is is channel, 

similar to to the 

or 

the 

the 

water water 

branches 

lily, lily, the the 

of 

leaf 

trees 

leaf being being 

which 

from from 

reach 

six six to 

the 

to surface 

twelve inches 

of the water. 

across, the 

We 

the root 

have 

root gone 

running 

a 

to 

couple 

to a a depth 

of 

depth 

miles 

of of six 

when 

six inches, 

we discover 

and and resembles 

that the 

a 

river a shallot 

no 

in 

longer 

in appearance. 

exists, but 

We We 

has 

had had lost 

the the itself curiosity in the 

to 

dense to taste taste swamp 

it. it. We We shall 

of 

shall 

custard 

do do so so no 

apples. 

no more!" 

Our 

compass Yes, Yes, is I now, I know know and blamed will be well until well they they end didn't! of That our That voyage, 

wampee 

our was was only a a guide. hellish We plant, plant, are now nobody penetrating would would ever ever a portion taste taste it of it the twice! 

state Indian which turnip has never it's it's called been called up done up north. before It's by It's tuber any tuber white looks looks man, like like a a

31 


36 



tating that part of this stream was dredged out some five years later 

han a vast to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston 

for all time had intended to continue on to Shark River. It now forms 

ld see them part of the Miami canal. As this stream was typical of the 


it was like. 

.from Lake 

the Everiami 

Canal depth of water being about eight feet. To say that our 




t River was 


expedition 


enough, he 


iver's fork. 


ey weren't 



s, "ere the which have twined around the trunks and branches of the 

astir." The trees, and have interlaced and wound themselves around 

were rowed each other until they form a screen which is almost sufficient 


for the last 

les to come. find Floods 

that and 

we are freezes, 

followed wild 

by hogs 

innumerable and coons, 

alligators, muck fires, 

who 

more than 

gnats 

are swimming and mosquitoes, 

lazily slow 

along transportation 

in our wake. and 

From greedy 

all sides New 

we 

ith a slight York see them 

buyers, plunging 

all these in 

discouraged the water, 

many. remain 

But under 

always, for a 

oth 

few 

of the trees ers seconds, 

came and rise 

stayed. after we 

Those have 

old passed 

boys and 

were join 

a the 

determined 

crowd behind 

network to breed. They us. We 

had do 

a not 

fierce go two 

pride miles 

and before 

independence. the river 

"If begins 

an 

e approach other to get 

man narrow, 

can do and 

it, we 

by find 

gosh, ourselves 

I can too!" in a 

That little stream 

was their 

only 

ater course motto a few 

which yards 

I've in width, 

often heard. the sunlight 

Only the completely 

threat of shut 

starva 

out by 

e machetes, tion the 

could branches 

make of 

them trees 

leave. and 

But vines, my friends, which have it wasn't interlocked 

easy. 

journey is It and 

was twined 

rough. around 

These each 

Everglades other until 

were a 

no perfect 

place roof 

for is 

ary formed 

with ... After a fainty going heart, half or a mile, 

a 

on is reachmaextendiners. a stream, Folks, that's but winding a stomped around down in fact! 

dark, sluggish water, the 

for one we with find we lace are on no his longer draw 

in 

rees which roots and branches of the trees forming a barrier to our 

a couple of further progress ... As we return we examine more closely 

exists, but the vines which grow so luxuriantly, and find that they are 

pples. Our a species of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from 

ur voyage, them, perfectly round, and about the size of a billiard ball. 

tion of the The vines run all over the trees, and on the ground form 

white man, a mat two or three feet deep." 

























either! 










as the frost. 





INDEX 

BELLE GLADE 


Adams, When W. P., I 108 first came to this Burke, lake Pat, these Ray, 133 gourds still were 

Alderman, plentiful Horace, in the 178 custard apple Burnett, forest, Dave, although 41 they then 

Allison, were 

Dr. 

less 

R. 

luxuriant 

V., 185 

Burton, Horace N., 43, 44, 47, 52 

than the moon vine, a kind of morning 

Alston, K. C., 135 

Buxton, Ben, 44 

American glory, Legion, which 137 completely ff blanketed the tops and the ex 

Aunapu, posed Frede, flanks 67 of ff, the 110 custard Callahan, apple woods, A. V., making 41 a shadowy 

Aunapu, dusk John, at mid 178 day. 

Calusa ( Calos) Indians, 13 ff 

Canal Point, 176, 216 

Bacorn After Point, 22, cruising 42 the south Capone, shore Al, for. 178 nine days the party 

Badger, arrived, Warren, near 77 the southernmost Carter, point George on W., the 53 lake, at the 

Badger, William H., 43, 56, 58 ff, 

Carter, J. E., 57 

largest 64, 72, 

and 77, 105 

longest of all these Carver, 

rivers. Nathaniel, 

This 204 

they christen 

Barco, ed G. T-D, C., 105 or Times-Democrat Cason, River. George, After 13 traversing this 

Baker, stream J. M., to 57 its end, they laid Cason, a course William south H., by 41 the compass 

Baker for (Glade Shark Crest), River, 35, ninety 38 miles Castro, away Fidel, by 216 air line. Although 

Barber (Ritta), 41 

Catfishing, 42 


Barwick, Henry, 177 

Central & Southern Florida Flood 

Bean long City, before, 41 ff, they 42 found that it now Control was District, a scant 209 five inches, 

Belasario, and under Gladys, that 24 was fifteen Champion, feet, more T. or J., 103 less, of soft mud. 

Bell, Bennett, 56 

Chase, Henry, 41 

Bell, Emily, So now 59 they are compelled Chosen, to 13, battle 44, 48, the 50 ff, sharp-edged 

59, 

Benjamin, sawgrass, Capt. which F. M., 73,75 they ff had believed 133, 137 to be only ten miles in 

extent, 82 ff but which actually persisted Churches, clear 48 ff to the headwaters 

Bense!, George F. 105 

Clark, William C., 43, 44, 47, 63, 

Betzner, 

of Shark Lou C., 

River. 120, 122, 

At times 124 

they 94, were 141, able 142 to burn the saw 

Bissell, grass, J. W., but 33, usually 35, 37 the way Clewiston, must be hacked 27, 80, 81, with 90 machetes. 

Bissell, For Ezra many E., days Olive they J ., 38 were compelled Connors Highway, to push 61 and lift their 

Bishop, boats P. every G., 182 foot of the way, Connally, often making Rev. E. F., only 47 a few hun 

Blakeley dred yards 

family, 

in 

41 

Collins, Leroy, 202 

a day. On November 17th, a week after leav 

Bolles, R. J., 34 

Collins, S. W., 88 

Bonnie, ing the 35 lake, a tall cypress Columbia at Democrat Broadcasting River System, was still 

Boree, visible Hubie, to 79 the ff,101, naked 161, 164 eye. 

197 ff 

Braddock, Lee, 58 

Coast Guard, U. S., 139, 178 

Braddock, Constantly Roscoe, 120, they 122 were plagued Creech, Lewis, by innumerable 120 ff, 166, 167 snakes, 

Brandon, though W. fortunately, L., 96 nobody was bitten. But they were 

Bradey, tortured Hugh by J., 146 mosquitoes, leeches Dahlberg, and Bror, poisonous 157 wampee 

British plants 

Broadcasting 

"which 

Corp., 

produce 

201, 202 Daniel, William E., Rinda, 

a terrible burning sensation. Its 

Brown, Orton B., 184 

Broward M., 35, 36, 38 

Brown appearance Peanut Farm, is similar 160, 182 to ff the Davidson, water lily, Paul, the 171, leaf 172 being from 

Brown six Paper to twelve Company, inches 182 ff, across, 187 

Davie, the 34, root 39, running 107, 108, 142 to a depth 

Brunson, of six James, inches, 204 and resembles Davis, a shallot Frank, 182 in appearance. We 

Bryan, had Joe, the 42 curiosity to taste it. Deerfield, We shall 36 do so no more!" 

Bush, Paul, 157, 161 

DeLaurie, Shorty, 171 

Burguieres, Yes, Jules I know M., 105 blamed well Deloach, they Homer, didn't! 173 That wampee 

Buck, was Dr. a William hellish J., plant, 120, 124, nobody DePamphilis, 

would ever Neil, 186 

taste it twice! 

135 ff, 152 

Denton, V. C., 161 


229 












' 



























'

165 

165 

Selected Captions 

Selected Captions 

8. Antonio, local resident, caught rabbit as it tried to escape 

from the burning fields. Ag companies set the sugar 

8. Antonio, a local resident, caught a rabbit as it tried to escape 

from the burning fields. Ag companies set the sugar 

cane on fire to remove excess waste before harvesting. 

cane on fire to remove excess waste before harvesting. 

Rabbits are sold in town. 

Rabbits are sold in town. 

14. From the Lawrence E. Will Museum archives, photograph 

of dredge boat circa the early 1900's. 

14. From the Lawrence E. Will Museum archives, a photograph 

of a dredge boat circa the early 1900's. 

20. The Disston dredge boat, whose shipwreck can be seen, 

20. The Disston dredge boat, whose shipwreck can be seen, 

was the first attempt at digging canal from Lake Okeechobee 

to Miami. The goal of early pioneers was making the 

was the first attempt at digging a canal from Lake Okeechobee 

to Miami. The goal of early pioneers was making the 

swamplands inhabitable by draining them. Hamilton Disston 

was an early investor and the first who took on the task 

swamplands inhabitable by draining them. Hamilton Disston 

was an early investor and the first who took on the task 

of draining South Florida. 

of draining South Florida. 

27. photograph of Willie Lee and his parents at their home 

27. A photograph of Willie Lee and his parents at their home 

on Torry Island. His family was among the first to establish 

on Torry Island. His family was among the first to establish 

homestead on the island. They spent generations clearing 

the land to make it productive for farming and decades 

a homestead on the island. They spent generations clearing 

the land to make it productive for farming and decades 

later were forced to sell it to the South Florida Water 

later were forced to sell it to the South Florida Water 

Management District who raised the level of the lake. 

Management District who raised the level of the lake. 

34. Sonny Stein keeps retired farming equipment on his land 

34. Sonny Stein keeps retired farming equipment on his land 

the very first tractors and draglines used. The coins were 

- the very first tractors and draglines used. The coins were 

the currency of laborers who earned them for each crate 

the currency of laborers who earned them for each crate 

of vegetable they picked; they could be spent at the Hooker 

of vegetable they picked; they could be spent at the Hooker 

and West local store for goods. 

and West local store for goods. 

40. Belle Glade Mayor Steve Wilson and City Manager 

40. Belle Glade Mayor Steve Wilson and City Manager 

Lomax Harrelle. 

Lomax Harrelle. 

52. nightclub in Immokalee is frequented by immigrant 

52. A nightclub in Immokalee is frequented by immigrant 

farmworkers on their night off. Women are paid $5 dance 

farmworkers on their night off. Women are paid $5 a dance 

to join them. 

to join them.

166 

58. Workers arrive hours before sunrise for buses bound for 

the fields. 

67. Hurricane Irma rain floods the low-lying areas of Belle 

Glade. 

70. The Schelecter Tree survived the Storm of 1928. It 

marks the spot where the Schelecter home used to be and 

where several members of the family perished during the 

hurricane. 

79. A medicine cabinet inside the Osceola Housing Authority 

project in Belle Glade. The complex was built in the 1930s, 

following the Great Depression, to provide housing for migrant 

farmworkers. 

86. A rooming house is an apartment building with single 

rooms for rent and shared communal bathrooms. They 

were constructed to house the large number of agriculture 

workers, foreign and domestic, who flocked to the Glades 

for seasonal farm work. There are still some in use. 

92. "The Sara Lee Doll" was the first anatomically accurate 

black doll produced in the United States. It was made by 

Sara Creech of Belle Glade. Author Zora Neale Hurston, 

who was friends with Ms. Creech, also played a role in its 

production. Mary Evans, featured in the photo, was one of 

the original models for the doll. 

94. T.I. cared for his dog Gator as he ran a laundromat in down 

town Belle Glade. 

98. After work, Ms. Balla's place is the gathering spot for old 

friends in downtown Belle Glade. 

102. The Sunday domino tournaments rotate from bar to bar 

each week so that each club owner can make a profit. 

105. Participants compete for first place and $40. Scores are 

tallied to see who wins the domino tournament. 

108. Dreddy and David at Dee's Lounge. 

167 

109. Fish for sale. 

112. Mourners at Cowboy's Deadyard (funeral celebration). 

118. Uncle Bill was known for his dancing and for being Belle 

Glade's best pool player. 

126. A shrine honors a Belle Glade man who was shot and killed. 

131. Tape keeps bugs from climbing in through a bullet hole in 

my wall. 

134. Kids hone their shooting skills around Thanksgiving by 

aiming at targets for a chance to win a turkey. 

136. From the Lawrence E. Will Museum archives, the first 

Harvest Queen contestants in Belle Glade. 

138. High school students practice for a tractor driving competition 

at Glades Day, a private school in Belle Glade. 

139. Kids in the FFA (Future Farmers of America) program 

learn to care for livestock, which they then sell at the annual 

South Florida Fair. 

145. Business pioneer George Wedgworth founded the Sugar 

Cane Growers Cooperative of Florida in the 1960s by proposing 

that many smaller farmers join to pool their resources. 

Together, these pioneer farming families were able 

to compete and survive. 

150. Sugarcane harvesting is is done by heavy machinery, but 

planting sugarcane is is still done by hand. 

154. Former farmworkers from Jamaica have taken root in 

Lake Harbor. J aniaicans were originally selected to come 

work under contract in America and cut sugarcane by 

hand. Heavy machinery has replaced that work but some 

Jamaicans have stayed and built their lives in the Glades. 

158. Local Historian Butch Wilson at the Clewiston Museum. 

160. Angie and her family spend time together outside a motel 

room they rented out in Belle Glade.

168 

169 

For decades after Western Expansion, South Florida was.still a 

wilderness. Only once pioneers dredged canals and redirected the 

flow of Lake Okeechobee did this area become habitable. These once 

considered "useless" territories of marshes and swamps ultimately 

gave way to development and industry. 

On the southern tip of the lake lies Belle Glade, a small agricultural 

town that one might pass on a road trip today, just a couple of 

stoplights and it's gone. It hides a rich history that leads to how we 

arrived here to Florida. 

In 2015, I moved to Belle Glade to a former rooming house apartment 

and soon after came across books by Lawrence E. Will and 

Zora Neale Hurston. Will painted a picture of the pioneers who 

developed the area through persistence and foresight, and for me, 

Hurston gave a voice to the workers who built the Glades with their 

bare hands. 

Their writing became my framework for exploring the past and 

looking at its contemporary parallels. In this time capsule; history is 

present. Roots run deep and the pioneer spirit can still be felt. 

Thank Yous and Credits 

Jose Jesus Zaragoza for living this with me. 

-Sofia Valiente 

David Wallace, Ms. Balla and Loretta, for introducing me to my 

friends in downtown Belle Glade, and inviting me to all of their parties. 

They are nothing but love. 

Lawrence E. Will, for taking it upon himself it upon himself to 

record local history and collect countless stories. 

My neighbors Pookie and Sugarmama, for having my back and 

defending me. 

Butch Wilson, for our long talks about history, life and society. 

Sonny Stein and Willie Lee, for providing me with the closest experience 

I'll have to meeting a pioneer. 

Boots Boyer, for taking me out on his airboat to explore the Custard 

Apple Woods. 

Jennifer Earnest, Barbara Boswell and The H.E. Hill Foundation, 

for their support of the project. 

The entire Glades community that will always be a piece of my 

heart. 

Adam Ganuza and The Knight Foundation, for their commitment 

and generous support to empowering artists and their visions. 

And thank you always to my mom Malaica, and three brothers 

Jigme, Nico and Mati for their unconditional love. 

Photography and Concept by Sofia Valiente 

Design by Bonnie Briant 

Text, halftone images and maps were appropriated from SWAMP 

TO SUGAR BOWL, PIONEER DAYS IN BELLE GLADE by 

LAWRENCE ELMER WILL, 1968. 

Five brief quotations from THEIR EYES WERE WATCHING 

GOD by ZORA NEALE HURSTON. Copyright (c) 1937 by Zora 

Neale Hurston. Renewed (c) 1965 by John C. Hurston and Joel 

Hurston. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers. 

The publishing of this book was made possible by funding from 

the John S. and James L. Knight Foundation's 2017 Knight Arts 

Challenge. 

m KNIGHT 

DIii FOUNDATION 

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced 

or transmitted in any form, electronic or mechanical, without 

prior permission in writing from the publisher. 

© Foreverglades by Sofia Valiente 2019 

© all color photography by Sofia Valiente 2019 

© all text by the authors 

First edition self-published by Sofia Valiente 2019 

ISBN: 978-0-578-55230-9

Foreverglades_Valiente2019

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