Foreverglades_Valiente2019

26 26 BELLE SW AMP TO GLADE FROM SW
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to to the of He had one million
of to 25 lion
to
develop develop
the the
interior interior
of of
Florida. Florida.
He He
had had
bought bought
one one
mil­
million
acres acres
of of
land land
reaching reaching
from from
Orlando Orlando
to to
25 25
miles miles
south
south
of of he had of
Lake Lake
Okeechobee. Okeechobee.
Already Already
he he
had had
connected connected
Lake Lake
Okee­
Okeechobechobee
via the and via via
the the
Kissimmee Kissimmee
River River
and and
some some
intervening
intervening
lakes, his in the cow of lakes,
with with
his his
headquarters headquarters
in in
the the
cow cow
camp camp
of of
Kissim­
Kissimmeemee.
In he had also the big In In
addition, addition,
he he
had had
also also
connected connected
the the
big big
lake lake
with
with
the the and the of the
Caloosahatchee Caloosahatchee
River River
and and
the the
Gulf Gulf
of of
Mexico. Mexico.
Since
Since
many of had many
of of
Disston's Disston's
principal principal
men men
had had
come come
from from
Louisiana,
Louisiana,
the the the
New New
Orleans Orleans
Times-Democrat Times-Democrat
paper paper
became became
interested
interested
in in the for of this in
the the
possibilities possibilities
for for
development development
of of
this this
newly newly
opened
opened
part of In this had part
of of
Florida. Florida.
In In
1882 1882
this this
newspaper newspaper
had had
sent sent
Major
Major
Williams on an Williams on on
an an
exploring exploring
expedition expedition
from from
Kissimmee Kissimmee
down
down
the the to and on the the
river
river
to
to
Lake
Lake
Okeechobee
Okeechobee
and
and
on
on
through
through
the
the
Caloosa­
Caloosahatchehatchee
to the the to this to
to
the
the
Gulf,
Gulf,
the
the
first
first
boat
boat
ever
ever
to
to
make
make
this
this
trip.
trip.
The The the a The
following
following
year
year
the
the
Times-Democrat
Times-Democrat
organized
organized
a large
a large
expedition to the and expedition
to
to
explore
explore
the
the
lake's
lake's
southern
southern
shore,
shore,
and
and
then
then
to to the of the to
to
strike
strike
south
south
through
through
the
the
heart
heart
of
of
the
the
Everglades
Everglades
to
to
Shark on the Shark
River
River
on
on
the
the
Gulf.
Gulf.
Now this was a into and for­
Now
this
this
was
was
a bold
a bold
adventure
adventure
into
into
unknown
unknown
and
and
for­
forbiddinbidding
to be territory,
territory,
to
to
be
be
sure.
sure.
Although
Although
such
such
explorations
explorations
had had the had had
been
been
attempted
attempted
during
during
the
the
Indian
Indian
war,
war,
none
none
had
had
pene­
penetratetrated
far. As a
far.
far.
As
As
surveyor
surveyor
George
George
Mackay
Mackay
testified
testified
before
before
a
a
committee of committee
of
of
congress.
congress.
"Very can be of the "Very
little
little
can
can
be
be
known
known
of
of
the
the
North
North
Glades.
Glades.
They
They
are are and it is to are
uniformly
uniformly
saw-grass,
saw-grass,
and
and
it
it
is
is
impossible
impossible
to
to
penetrate
penetrate
them in and in low are
them
with
with
canoes·
canoes·
in
in
high
high
water,
water,
and
and
in
in
low
low
water
water
they
they
are
are
so so is to so
generally
generally
boggy
boggy
that
that
is
is
impossible
impossible
to
to
explore explore
them
them
on on on
foot."
foot."
The The was to the
The
Times-Democrat
Times-Democrat
expedition
expedition
was
was
to
to
investigate
investigate
the
the
Everglades, to on the of it, to see
Everglades,
to
to
check
check
on
on
the
the
possibility
possibility
of
of
draining
draining
it,
it,
to
to
see
see
what its soil to the tion and of life of the and at the tion
what
crops
crops
its
its
soil
soil
might
might
produce,
produce,
to
to
ascertain
ascertain
the
the
condi­
condition
and
and
manner
manner
of
of
life
life
of
of
the
the
Indians,
Indians,
and
and
at
at
the
the
request
request
of of the to on the of
the
the
Western
Western
Union
Union
company,
company,
to
to
report
report
on
on
the
the
practi­
practicabilitcability
of a line the of
of
constructing
constructing
a telegraph
a telegraph
line
line
through
through
the
the
Glades.
Glades.
The The of a The
party,
party,
besides
besides
Major
Major
Williams,
Williams,
consisted
consisted
of
of
a civil
a civil
engineer, an a and Asengineer,
an
an
artist,
artist,
a
a
mechanic
mechanic
and
and
Captain
Captain
Francis
Francis
As-
As-
stating that big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred
firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,
than a vast
for all time I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking
one in several waters until the lavender liquid no long­
ld see them
er showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a
few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,
.from Lake
and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that
the Everiami
Canal
wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable
tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I
know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet
t River was strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got
expedition unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee
enough, and he squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even
iver's fork. the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up
hey weren't sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their
bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.
s, "ere the
As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed
astir." The
also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.
were rowed "All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved
for the last by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking
of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alli­
les to come.
more than gator would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression
we cannot avoid."
ith a slight
of the trees As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat
to deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their
network
e approach boats could float and that day they made a mile and a
ater course half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout
five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,
e machetes,
journey some is five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the
on is reachextending
and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,
islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper
trees which and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they
a couple then of were in Shark River, which they descended to its
exists, but mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. Here they boarded the
pples. Our schooner which had come to meet them for the return to
ur voyage, civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had
tion of the taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day
white man, in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.
Lauderdale, yet yet it it wasn't wasn't very very popular. popular. The The locks locks were were six six
miles miles from from town, town, and and since since the the water water below below was was too too shoal shoal
to to navigate, navigate, all all goods goods had had to to be be transferred from from the the locks locks
over over a a rutted rutted sandy sandy road road through through the the piney piney woods woods to to Deer­
Deer­
field. field. But But good good gosh, gosh, when when you you got got there, there, except except for for the the
railroad, railroad, you you still still hadn't hadn't got got nowhere! nowhere! Yet Yet by by the the spring spring
of of 1915 1915 there there already already were were some some 72 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts
camped camped at at Glade Glade Crest, Crest, the the most most I I wouldn't wouldn't doubt, doubt, who who
ever ever lived lived there there at at one one time. time. But But friend, friend, they they were were having having
their their troubles. troubles.
Glade Glade Crest Crest was was in in the the pure pure old old peat peat of of the the sawgrass sawgrass
Everglades, new new and and raw. raw. I I know know exactly exactly what what they they had had
to to contend contend with, with, for for I I was was having having the the same same problems problems at at
the the very very same same time time in in Okeelanta. Water Water no no longer longer covered covered
the the land, land, but but it it wasn't wasn't far far below below the the surface, surface, and and clearing clearing
that that sawgrass sawgrass was was a a terrific terrific task, task, for for no no machines machines which which
we we had had could could do do it. it.
The The land land salesmen salesmen had had told told us us all, all, "Just "Just mow mow off off the the
sawgrass, sawgrass, then then plow plow the the ground ground with with a a hand hand push push plow." plow."
Mrs. Mrs. Daniel Daniel has has said said that that they they even even had had told told her. her. "A "A familily
of of four four could could make make a a living living on on a a single single acre, acre, since since four four
fam­
crops crops could could be be grown grown each each year". year". Oh Oh yes, yes, they they even even said, said,
and and backed backed it it up up with with government reports, reports, "Frost "Frost has has
never never been been known known to to damage damage the the tenderest tenderest vegetation."
And And gee gee whiz, whiz, they they even even claimed claimed there there were were no no mosquitoes,
either! either!
That That first first winter, winter, according according to to Herman Herman Herndon, Herndon, there there
were were fifteen fifteen frosts frosts and and freezes freezes from from December till till April April
5th. 5th. Farmers Farmers tried tried to to protect protect their their little little crops crops by by burning burning
piles piles of of sawgrass, sawgrass, but but the the heat heat mostly mostly went went straight straight up, up,
so so some some plants plants were were scorched scorched while while the the majority majority simply simply
froze. froze. Anyway, Anyway, by by the the second second night, night, there there were were no no more more
sawgrass sawgrass piles. piles. Then Then they they tried tried covering covering the the plants plants with with
muck. muck. This This worked worked fine fine once once or or twice twice and and with with small small plants, plants,
but but the the covering covering and and uncovering was was near near about about as as damaginaging
as as the the frost. frost.
dam­
Since Since the the first first tractors tractors couldn't couldn't clear clear the the sawgrass, sawgrass, all all
this this had had to to be be done done by by hand. hand. Sawgrass Sawgrass first first was was chopped chopped
GLADE GLADE CREST CREST
37 37
DEMOCRAT RIVER 31
DEMOCRAT RIVER
DEMOCRAT RIVER
"Rim "Rim Dike. Torry at left,
Canal" bordering Herbert Hoover Dike. Torry Island at left,
"Rim
with
Canal"
Belle Glade
bordering Herbert Hoover
camps
Dike.
and Torry Island
at at left,
with Belle Glade Marina. Fishing camps and bridge at center.
Golf
with Belle Glade at right,
Marina. Fishing camps and bridge
with
at center.
Golf course at right, bordering Hillsboro Canal, with North
Golf New
course
River
at
Canal
right, bordering
off.
Hillsboro Canal,
gate
with
and
North
New River Canal branching off. Hurricane gate and
New River Canal
at
branching
canal off. Hurricane
All of the
gate
land
and
pumping station
pumping canal entrance. All of the land
to
station
right of
at
Rim
canal
Canal
entrance.
was
All
lake
of the land
shown to
shown right
to of
right Rim
of Canal
Rim was
Canal lake
was bottom.
lake bottom.
27 27
27
down down with with a a machete, machete, unless unless you you were were lucky lucky enough enough to to
Major Williams concludes his report by stating that
the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast
and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time
to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them
now!
get get the the cussed cussed grass grass to to burn. burn. Then, Then, with with a a heavy heavy planter's planter's
hoe, hoe, the the stubs stubs and and roots roots were were grubbed grubbed up, up, and and the the tough, tough,
rope-like rope-like connecting runners runners were were pulled pulled up up with with a a potato potato
rake rake and and tossed tossed behind behind to to dry. dry. After After the the sawgrass sawgrass had had been been
grubbed grubbed up, up, then then the the soft soft ground ground could could be be plowed plowed with with a a
And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake
Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,
yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal
was surveyed some thirty years later.
push push plow. plow. In In a a long, long, hard hard day day (all (all our our days days were were long long
and and hard, hard, so so it it seemed), seemed), one one man man could could grub grub up up a a patch patch
of of saw saw grass grass about about fifty fifty feet feet square. square. That's That's one-seventeenth
of of an an acre. acre. To To get get one one acre acre ready ready for for planting planting was was about about
a a month's month's job job for for one one man. man. Yet Yet that that first first winter winter that's that's
But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was
like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition
gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he
never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.
Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't
even noticed.
how it all was done.
'
how it all was done.
'
Worst Worst of of all, all, we we learned learned that that on on sawgrass sawgrass land land nothing nothing
would would grow grow but but sawgrass sawgrass ! ! The The brown, brown, fibrous fibrous peat peat had had
to to be be stirred stirred and and aerated aerated so so it it could could decompose into into black black
muck. muck. Plants Plants would would spring spring up, up, turn turn yellow yellow and and die. die. Yet Yet
where where Irish Irish potatoes potatoes had had been been sprayed sprayed with with lime lime and and coppeper
sulphate sulphate to to prevent prevent blight, blight, a a second second crop crop of of potatoes, potatoes,
cop­
or or nearly nearly anything anything else, else, would would grow grow fairly fairly well. well. So So that's that's
how how we we learned learned that that copper copper in in this this soil soil was was essential essential and and
we we had had to to use use commercial fertilizer, fertilizer, too. too. The The land land companiepanies
had had insisted insisted that that this this would would not not be be necessary, since since
com-
analysis analysis showed showed there there was was an an excess excess of of nitrogen. nitrogen. That That
sounded sounded fine, fine, but but what what they they didn't didn't know know was was that that this this
nitrogen nitrogen was was in in a a form form not not available available to to plants. plants. Oh Oh boy, boy,
there there was was a a heap heap to to learn! learn!
Yet Yet in in spite spite of of all, all, there there were were some some vegetables raised. raised.
'l'he 'l'he Ft. Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel Sentinel of of June June 19, 19, 1914 1914 states states that that
J. J. W. W. Bissell Bissell of of Glade Glade Crest Crest had had sold sold some some Irish Irish potatoes potatoes
for for $1 $1 and and $1.25 $1.25 a a hamper, hamper, and and they they had had yielded yielded at at the the
r r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper
te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper
didn't didn't state state how how many many hampers hampers or or how how many many acres acres Mr. Mr.
Bissell Bissell had, had, whether whether it it was was one one acre acre or or more more or or less. less. It It
wouldn't wouldn't surprise surprise me me if if it it was was less. less. In In Okeelanta the the five five
of of us, us, for for our our whole whole winter's winter's labor, labor, had had succeeded in in raisining
and and selling selling only only 40 40 hampers hampers of of potatoes, potatoes, ten ten hampers hampers
rais­
of of beans beans and and a a few few batches batches of of carrots carrots and and turnips. turnips. Our Our
potatoes potatoes brought brought $1.50 $1.50 and and $1.75. $1.75.
"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the
first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The
boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed
up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last
time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.
The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than
five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight
perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees
lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to
bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach
these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course
has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,
axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is
resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,
sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending
across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which
reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of
miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but
has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our
compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,
our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the
state which has never been done before by any white man,
bury the as
bury
Hendry, Hendry,
the the
LaBelle LaBelle
cattle cattle
king-five king-five
white white
men men
as
as
well as five and as well
as as
five five
negroes, negroes,
"stalwart, "stalwart,
strong strong
and and
black black
as as
crows".
crows".
Their of two and Their
fleet fleet
consisted consisted
of of
two two
large large
and and
three three
small small
canoes
canoes
and and two for Ft. and
two two
bateaus bateaus
for for
provisions. provisions.
Leaving Leaving
from from
Ft. Ft.
Myers
Myers
they on the on 4, For they
arrived arrived
on on
the the
lake lake
on on
November November
4, 4,
1883. 1883.
For For
several
several
days and days they
they
battled
battled
stormy
stormy
winds
winds
and
and
high
high
waves
waves
which
which
soaked and and soaked
them
them
continually
continually
and
and
ruined
ruined
their
their
meal
meal
and
and
grits
grits
and and of the To the and
some
some
of
of
the
the
coffee.
coffee.
To
To
escape
escape
the
the
storm
storm
they
they
took
took
refuge in a of refuge
in
in
a sheltered
a sheltered
cove
cove
back
back
of
of
Clewiston's
Clewiston's
Sand
Sand
Point.
Point.
This This
they
they
named
named
"Kitty
"Kitty
Harbor".
Harbor".
They
They
discovered
discovered
several
several
large in the and large
islands
islands
in
in
the
the
lake
lake
and
and
investigated
investigated
eight
eight
dead
dead
rivers
rivers
along the At day along
the
the
shore.
shore.
At
At
present
present
day
day
Lake
Lake
Harbor
Harbor
they
they
were
were
enthralled by the of one of the of enthralled
by
by
the
the
beauty
beauty
of
of
one
one
of
of
the
the
largest
largest
of
of
these
these
streams. in
streams.
This
This
they
they
christened
christened
Rita
Rita
River,
River,
although although
in
in
later a was the
later
years
years
when
when
a
a
post
post
office
office
was
was
established
established
here,
here,
the
the
spelling for was to The spelling
for
for
some
some
reason
reason
was
was
changed
changed
to
to
Ritta.
Ritta.
The
The
upper
upper
'
'