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28 28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

36<br />

36 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

36 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six<br />

Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six<br />

miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal<br />

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks<br />

Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six<br />

miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal<br />

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks<br />

miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal<br />

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks<br />

over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield.<br />

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the<br />

over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield.<br />

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the<br />

railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring<br />

over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield.<br />

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the<br />

railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring<br />

of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts<br />

railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring<br />

of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts<br />

camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who<br />

of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts<br />

camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who<br />

ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having<br />

camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who<br />

ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having<br />

36<br />

GLADE CREST 35<br />

part of of this this stream was was dredged out out some five five years later<br />

to to become a a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston<br />

had had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now forms<br />

part of of the the Miami canal. As As this this stream was was typical of of the the<br />

lake's dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's see see what<br />

it it was was like.<br />

"The river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, the the<br />

depth of of water being about eight feet. To To say say that our our<br />

little party was was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We<br />

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear exclamations<br />

from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful<br />

scenery which greets the the eye eye on on every side. There is is no no<br />

perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The The water is is<br />

clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with a a dense tropical<br />

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view a a solid green wall,<br />

impenetrable to to the the eye. This wall is is formed by by vines,<br />

which have twined around the the trunks and and branches of of the the<br />

trees, and and have interlaced and and wound themselves around<br />

each other until they form a a screen which is is almost sufficient<br />

to to shut out out the the light of of day. Looking behind us us we we<br />

suf­<br />

find that we we are are followed by by innumerable alligators, who<br />

are are swimming lazily along in in our our wake. From all all sides we we<br />

see see them plunging in in the the water, remain under for for a a few few<br />

seconds, rise rise after we we have passed and and join join the the crowd behind<br />

us. us. We We do do not not go go two two miles before the the river begins<br />

to to get get narrow, and and we we find ourselves in in a a little stream only<br />

a a few few yards in in width, the the sunlight completely shut out out by by<br />

be­<br />

the the branches of of trees and and vines, which have interlocked<br />

and and twined around each other until a a perfect roof is is formed<br />

... ... After going half half a a mile, we we find we we are are no no longer in in<br />

ed<br />

a a stream, but but winding around in in dark, sluggish water, the the<br />

roots and and branches of of the the trees forming a a barrier to to our our<br />

further progress ... ... As As we we return we we examine more closely<br />

the the vines which grow so so luxuriantly, and and find that they are are<br />

a a species of of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from<br />

them, perfectly round, and and about the the size size of of a a billiard ball.<br />

The The vines run run all all over the the trees, and and on on the the ground form<br />

a a mat mat two two or or three feet feet deep."<br />

their troubles.<br />

ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having<br />

their troubles.<br />

their troubles.<br />

BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

Glade Crest was in the pure old peat of the sawgrass<br />

Everglades, new and raw. I know exactly what they had<br />

to contend with, for I was having the same problems at<br />

the very same time in Okeelanta. Water no longer covered<br />

the land, but it wasn't far below the surface, and clearing<br />

that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which<br />

we had could do it.<br />

The land salesmen had told us all, "Just mow off the<br />

sawgrass, then plow the ground with a hand push plow."<br />

Mrs. Daniel has said that they even had told her. "A family<br />

of four could make a living on a single acre, since four<br />

crops could be grown each year". Oh yes, they even said,<br />

and backed it up with government reports, "Frost has<br />

never been known to damage the tenderest vegetation."<br />

And gee whiz, they even claimed there were no mosquitoes,<br />

either!<br />

That first winter, according to Herman Herndon, there<br />

were fifteen frosts and freezes from December till April<br />

5th. Farmers tried to protect their little crops by burning<br />

piles of sawgrass, but the heat mostly went straight up,<br />

so some plants were scorched while the majority simply<br />

froze. Anyway, by the second night, there were no more<br />

sawgrass piles. Then they tried covering the plants with<br />

muck. This worked fine once or twice and with small plants,<br />

but the covering and uncovering was near about as damaging<br />

as the frost.<br />

Since the first tractors couldn't clear the sawgrass, all<br />

this had to be done by hand. Sawgrass first was chopped<br />

Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six<br />

Glade Crest was in the pure old peat of the sawgrass<br />

Everglades, new and raw. I know exactly what they had<br />

to contend with, for I was having the same problems at<br />

the very same time in Okeelanta. Water no longer covered<br />

the land, but it wasn't far below the surface, and clearing<br />

that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which<br />

we had could do it.<br />

The land salesmen had told us all, "Just mow off the<br />

sawgrass, then plow the ground with a hand push plow."<br />

Mrs. Daniel has said that they even had told her. "A family<br />

of Glade four Crest could was make in a the living pure on old a single peat of acre, the since sawgrass four<br />

crops Everglades, could be new grown and raw. each I year". know Oh exactly yes, they what even they said, had<br />

and to contend backed with, up for with I was government having the reports, same problems "Frost has at<br />

never the very been same known time to in Okeelanta. damage the Water tenderest no longer vegetation." covered<br />

And the land, gee whiz, but it they wasn't even far claimed below there surface, were no and mosquitoes, clearing<br />

either! that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which<br />

we That had could first winter, do it. according to Herman Herndon, there<br />

were The fifteen land salesmen frosts and had freezes told us from all, December "Just mow till off April the<br />

5th. sawgrass, Farmers then tried plow to the protect ground their with little a hand crops push by burning plow."<br />

piles Mrs. Daniel of sawgrass, has said but that the they heat even mostly had went told her. straight "A family<br />

some of four plants could were make scorched a living on while a single the majority acre, since simply four<br />

up,<br />

so<br />

froze. crops could Anyway, be grown by the each second year". night, Oh there yes, they were even no more said,<br />

sawgrass and backed piles. it up Then with they government tried covering reports, the plants "Frost with has<br />

muck. never This been worked known fine to damage once or twice the tenderest and with small vegetation." plants,<br />

but And the gee covering whiz, they and even uncovering claimed there was near were about no mosquitoes, as damaging<br />

either! as the frost.<br />

Since That first the first winter, tractors according couldn't to Herman clear the Herndon, sawgrass, there all<br />

this were had fifteen to be frosts done and by hand. freezes Sawgrass from December first was till chopped April<br />

5th. Farmers tried to protect their little crops by burning<br />

piles of sawgrass, but the heat mostly went straight up,<br />

so some plants were scorched while the majority simply<br />

froze. Anyway, by the second night, there were no more<br />

miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal<br />

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks<br />

Glade Crest was in the pure old peat of the sawgrass<br />

Everglades, new and raw. I know exactly what they had<br />

to contend with, for I was having the same problems at<br />

the very same time in Okeelanta. Water no longer covered<br />

the land, but it wasn't far below the surface, and clearing<br />

that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which<br />

we had could do it.<br />

The land salesmen had told us all, "Just mow off the<br />

sawgrass, then plow the ground with a hand push plow."<br />

Mrs. Daniel has said that they even had told her. "A family<br />

of four could make a living on a single acre, since four<br />

crops could be grown each year". Oh yes, they even said,<br />

and backed it up with government reports, "Frost has<br />

never been known to damage the tenderest vegetation."<br />

And gee whiz, they even claimed there were no mosquitoes,<br />

either!<br />

That first winter, according to Herman Herndon, there<br />

were fifteen frosts and freezes from December till April<br />

5th. Farmers tried to protect their little crops by burning<br />

piles of sawgrass, but the heat mostly went straight up,<br />

so some plants were scorched while the majority simply<br />

froze. Anyway, by the second night, there were no more<br />

sawgrass piles. Then they tried covering the plants with<br />

muck. This worked fine once or twice and with small plants,<br />

but the covering and uncovering was near about as damaging<br />

as the frost.<br />

Since the first tractors couldn't clear the sawgrass, all<br />

this had to be done by hand. Sawgrass first was chopped<br />

over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield.<br />

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the<br />

railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring<br />

Sawgrass plow with mouldboard slatted for better scouring.<br />

of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts<br />

one of these same boys, while far from the settlement, got<br />

bitten by a moccasin. His ankle swelled until he couldn't<br />

work, so the crew abandoned surveying and began frantically<br />

to hack a trail through the head high sawgrass.<br />

They knew the direction to the settlement but with grass<br />

so high, couldn't see any buildings. It was pitch dark when<br />

they got to the canal, and they began to shout. Finally a<br />

settler heard the racket and rescued them with his boat.<br />

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing to<br />

medicine in the camp. The boy must have been pretty<br />

tough for the leg got well, but he was promoted to be camp<br />

cook after that.<br />

camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who<br />

ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having<br />

their troubles.<br />

By the winter of 1914-15, besides Slade, there were the<br />

families of Baker, Daniel, Elsasser, Herndon, Garrett, Metcalf<br />

and two Bissell families and a Mrs. Chisolm who was<br />

sister to one of the Bissell ladies. Later, Shields and his<br />

son, who had some boats and barges, started a little store,<br />

and since the Hillsboro canal had just been opened, "Shorty"<br />

Woods, in his boat Bonnie made occasional trips<br />

down it to the coast. Although this route was far shorter<br />

than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft.<br />

GLADE CREST 37<br />

DEMOCRAT DRAINAGE AND RIVER LAND CLEARING<br />

29 29<br />

GLADE CREST 37<br />

GLADE CREST 37<br />

down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to<br />

down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to<br />

When I I first came to to this this lake these gourds still still were<br />

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they then<br />

were less less luxuriant than the the moon vine, a a kind of of morning<br />

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops and and the the exposed<br />

flanks of of the the custard apple woods, making a a shadowy<br />

dusk at at mid mid day.<br />

ex­<br />

down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to<br />

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's<br />

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's<br />

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's<br />

hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough,<br />

hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough,<br />

hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough,<br />

rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato<br />

rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato<br />

rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato<br />

rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been<br />

rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been<br />

rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been<br />

grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a<br />

grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a<br />

grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a<br />

push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long<br />

push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long<br />

push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long<br />

After cruising the the south shore for. for. nine days the the party<br />

arrived, near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, at at the the<br />

largest and and longest of of all all these rivers. This they christened<br />

T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this this<br />

ed<br />

stream to to its its end, end, they laid laid a a course south by by the the compass<br />

for for Shark River, ninety miles away by by air air line. Although<br />

water had had evidently been five five feet feet over the the land not not too too<br />

long before, they found that it it now was was a a scant five five inches,<br />

and and under that was was fifteen feet, more or or less, less, of of soft soft mud.<br />

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch<br />

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch<br />

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch<br />

of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth<br />

GLADE CREST 37<br />

of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth<br />

of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth<br />

of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about<br />

of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about<br />

of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about<br />

down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to<br />

a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's<br />

a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's<br />

how it all was done.<br />

'<br />

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing<br />

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had<br />

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black<br />

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet<br />

where Irish potatoes had been sprayed with lime and copper<br />

sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes,<br />

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's<br />

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and<br />

we had to use commercial fertilizer, too. The land companies<br />

how it had all was insisted done.<br />

'<br />

that this would not be necessary, since<br />

analysis Worst showed of all, there we learned was an that excess on sawgrass of nitrogen. land nothing That<br />

sounded would grow fine, but but sawgrass what they ! The didn't brown, know fibrous was that peat this had<br />

nitrogen to be stirred was and in a aerated form not so it available could decompose to plants. into Oh black boy,<br />

there muck. was Plants a heap would to learn! spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet<br />

where Yet Irish in spite potatoes of all, had there been were sprayed some with vegetables lime and raised. copper<br />

Ft. sulphate Lauderdale to prevent Sentinel blight, of June a second 19, 1914 crop of states potatoes, that<br />

'l'he<br />

J. or W. nearly Bissell anything of Glade else, Crest would had grow sold fairly some Irish well. So potatoes that's<br />

for how $1 we and learned $1.25 that a hamper, copper in and this they soil had was yielded essential at the and<br />

rwe te had of 150 to use bushels commercial per acre. fertilizer, Now, to too. be sure, The the land paper companies<br />

state had insisted how many that hampers this would or not how be many necessary, acres since Mr.<br />

didn't<br />

Bissell analysis had, showed whether there it was was an one excess acre or of more nitrogen. or less. That It<br />

wouldn't sounded surprise fine, but me what if it they was didn't less. In know Okeelanta was that the five<br />

this<br />

of nitrogen us, for was our whole in a form winter's not labor, available had to succeeded plants. in Oh raising<br />

there and was selling a heap only to 40 learn! hampers of potatoes, ten hampers<br />

boy,<br />

of beans Yet in and spite a few of all, batches there of were carrots some and vegetables turnips. raised. Our<br />

potatoes 'l'he Ft. brought Lauderdale $1.50 Sentinel and $1.75. of June 19, 1914 states that<br />

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes<br />

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the<br />

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper<br />

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr.<br />

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. It<br />

a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's<br />

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's<br />

how it all was done.<br />

'<br />

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing<br />

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had<br />

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black<br />

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet<br />

where Irish potatoes had been sprayed with lime and copper<br />

sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes,<br />

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's<br />

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and<br />

we had to use commercial fertilizer, too. The land companies<br />

had insisted that this would not be necessary, since<br />

analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That<br />

sounded fine, but what they didn't know was that this<br />

nitrogen was in a form not available to plants. Oh boy,<br />

there was a heap to learn!<br />

Yet in spite of all, there were some vegetables raised.<br />

'l'he Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel of June 19, 1914 states that<br />

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes<br />

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the<br />

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper<br />

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr.<br />

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. It<br />

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five<br />

of us, for our whole winter's labor, had succeeded in raising<br />

and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers<br />

of beans and a few batches of carrots and turnips. Our<br />

potatoes brought $1.50 and $1.75.<br />

how it all was done.<br />

'<br />

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing<br />

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had<br />

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black<br />

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet<br />

where Irish potatoes had been sprayed with lime and copper<br />

sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes,<br />

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's<br />

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and<br />

we had to use commercial fertilizer, too. The land companies<br />

had insisted that this would not be necessary, since<br />

analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That<br />

sounded fine, but what they didn't know was that this<br />

nitrogen was in a form not available to plants. Oh boy,<br />

there was a heap to learn!<br />

hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough,<br />

rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato<br />

rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been<br />

grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a<br />

push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long<br />

So So now they are are compelled to to battle the the sharp-edged<br />

sawgrass, which they had had believed to to be be only ten ten miles in in<br />

extent, but but which actually persisted clear to to the the headwaters<br />

of of Shark River. At At times they were able able to to burn the the sawgrass,<br />

but but usually the the way must be be hacked with machetes.<br />

For For many days they were compelled to to push and and lift lift their<br />

boats every foot foot of of the the way, often making only a a few few hundred<br />

yards in in a a day. On On November 17th, a a week after leaving<br />

the the lake, a a tall tall cypress at at Democrat River was was still still<br />

ing<br />

visible to to the the naked eye.<br />

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch<br />

of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth<br />

of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about<br />

a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's<br />

Yet in spite of all, there were some vegetables raised.<br />

'l'he Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel of June 19, 1914 states that<br />

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes<br />

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the<br />

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper<br />

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr.<br />

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. It<br />

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five<br />

of us, for our whole winter's labor, had succeeded in raising<br />

and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers<br />

of beans and a few batches of carrots and turnips. Our<br />

potatoes brought $1.50 and $1.75.<br />

Constantly they were plagued by by innumerable snakes,<br />

though fortunately, nobody was was bitten. But But they were<br />

tortured by by mosquitoes, leeches and and poisonous wampee<br />

plants "which produce a a terrible burning sensation. Its Its<br />

appearance is is similar to to the the water lily, lily, the the leaf leaf being from<br />

six six to to twelve inches across, the the root running to to a a depth<br />

of of six six inches, and and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We<br />

had had the the curiosity to to taste it. it. We We shall do do so so no no more!"<br />

Yes, I I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee<br />

was was a a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it it twice!<br />

Indian turnip it's it's called up up north. It's It's tuber looks like like a a<br />

'<br />

'<br />

'<br />

'

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