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farmers at first didn't own their land. They squatted persuaded him to try his luck at share cro<br />

where they pleased, clearing a few acres here and there<br />

Island. Moving his family by wagon t<br />

wherever it might suit their fancy. So now you're saying by barge across the lake, he farmed on K<br />

they had not right to rent the land to negroes, but pardnr,<br />

28 28 50 BELLE GLADE FROM SW SW AMP TO TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

DEMOCRAT RIVER 5029<br />

try his luck at share cropping on Kreamhis<br />

family by wagon to Lakeport, then<br />

he lake, he farmed on Kreamer in 1916<br />

190<br />

190<br />

BELLE<br />

BELLE GLADE GLADE<br />

FROM FROM<br />

SW SW<br />

AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

part of of this stream was dredged out out some five years later<br />

to to become a a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston<br />

had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now forms<br />

part of of the the Miami canal. As As this stream was typical of of the the<br />

lake's dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's see see what<br />

it it was like.<br />

"The river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, the the<br />

depth of of water being about eight feet. To To say say that our our<br />

little party was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We<br />

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear exclamations<br />

from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful<br />

scenery which greets the the eye eye on on every side. There is is no no<br />

perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The water is is<br />

clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with a a dense tropical<br />

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view a a solid green wall,<br />

impenetrable to to the the eye. This wall is is formed by by vines,<br />

which have twined around the the trunks and branches of of the the<br />

trees, and have interlaced and wound themselves around<br />

each other until they form a a screen which is is almost sufficient<br />

to to shut out out the the light of of day. Looking behind us us we we<br />

find that we we are are followed by by innumerable alligators, who<br />

are are swimming lazily along in in our our wake. From all all sides we we<br />

see see them plunging in in the the water, remain under for for a a few<br />

seconds, rise after we we have passed and join the the crowd behind<br />

us. us. We We do do not not go go two miles before the the river begins<br />

to to get get narrow, and we we find ourselves in in a a little stream only<br />

a a few yards in in width, the the sunlight completely shut out out by by<br />

be­<br />

the the branches of of trees and vines, which have interlocked<br />

and twined around each other until a a perfect roof is is formed<br />

... After going half a a mile, we we find we we are are no no longer in in<br />

ed<br />

a a stream, but but winding around in in dark, sluggish water, the the<br />

roots and branches of of the the trees forming a a barrier to to our our<br />

further progress ... As As we we return we we examine more closely<br />

the the vines which grow so so luxuriantly, and find that they are are<br />

a a species of of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from<br />

them, perfectly round, and about the the size of of a a billiard ball.<br />

The vines run all all over the the trees, and on on the the ground form<br />

a a mat two or or three feet deep."<br />

Bean pickers at work.<br />

Bean pickers at work.<br />

things<br />

things have have<br />

changed changed a<br />

heap heap<br />

since since<br />

then. then.<br />

All All<br />

farm farm<br />

laborers<br />

laborers<br />

now<br />

now go go<br />

to to<br />

work work<br />

in in<br />

busses busses<br />

which which<br />

are are<br />

not not<br />

allowed allowed<br />

to to<br />

leave<br />

leave<br />

before<br />

before seven seven<br />

o'clock o'clock<br />

in in<br />

the the<br />

morning. morning.<br />

Most Most<br />

migrant migrant<br />

work­<br />

workerers<br />

now now<br />

live live<br />

in in<br />

two two<br />

or or<br />

three three<br />

story story<br />

cement cement<br />

block block<br />

buildings<br />

buildings<br />

with<br />

with running running<br />

water water<br />

in in<br />

each each<br />

apartment. apartment.<br />

Labor Labor<br />

camps camps<br />

and<br />

and<br />

apartment<br />

apartment houses houses<br />

are are<br />

inspected inspected<br />

by by<br />

county county<br />

and and<br />

fed fed ral<br />

health inspectors. All migrants are allowed free medical ral<br />

health inspectors. All migrants are allowed free medical<br />

and<br />

and dental dental<br />

work, work,<br />

and and<br />

their their<br />

children children<br />

all all<br />

go go<br />

to to<br />

school, school,<br />

even<br />

even<br />

having<br />

having special special<br />

teachers, teachers,<br />

and and<br />

the the<br />

little little<br />

ones ones<br />

have have<br />

nursery<br />

nursery<br />

schools.<br />

schools. Yes, Yes,<br />

conditions conditions<br />

have have<br />

changed changed a<br />

right right smart smart<br />

in<br />

in<br />

recent<br />

recent years.<br />

years.<br />

But<br />

But now, just for the heck of it, let's venture down to<br />

now, just for the heck of it, let's venture down to<br />

colored<br />

colored town in those days when we lived in bean econ­<br />

town in those days when we lived in a bean economyomy.<br />

Long<br />

Long before day of this dark winter morning, the<br />

before day of this dark winter morning, the<br />

farmer<br />

farmer in his high laced boots and wide brimmed hat, has<br />

in his high laced boots and wide brimmed hat, has<br />

BEAN PICKERS NEVER SLEEP 191<br />

BEAN PICKERS NEVER SLEEP 191<br />

already<br />

already emerged emerged<br />

from from<br />

his his<br />

home, home,<br />

or or<br />

maybe maybe<br />

from from<br />

his his<br />

hotel<br />

hotel<br />

room<br />

room (for (for<br />

many many<br />

are are<br />

here here<br />

only only<br />

for for<br />

the the<br />

season), season),<br />

climbed<br />

climbed<br />

into<br />

into his his<br />

pickup pickup<br />

truck truck<br />

and and<br />

has has<br />

driven driven<br />

to to<br />

5th 5th<br />

Street. Street.<br />

His<br />

His<br />

truck<br />

truck driver driver<br />

is is<br />

probably probably<br />

already already<br />

waiting. waiting.<br />

On On<br />

each each<br />

side side<br />

of<br />

of<br />

the<br />

the street street<br />

and and<br />

its its<br />

adjoining adjoining<br />

corners, corners,<br />

high, high,<br />

slat-sided slat-sided<br />

field<br />

field<br />

trucks<br />

trucks line line<br />

the the<br />

streets.<br />

streets.<br />

From<br />

From upstairs upstairs<br />

of of<br />

frame frame<br />

apartment apartment<br />

houses, houses,<br />

from from<br />

every<br />

every<br />

street<br />

street and and<br />

alley, alley,<br />

dusky dusky<br />

figures figures<br />

emerge emerge<br />

and and<br />

mi11 mi11<br />

about about<br />

in in<br />

the<br />

the<br />

dark<br />

dark street, street,<br />

men men<br />

in in<br />

mucky mucky<br />

work work<br />

clothes, clothes,<br />

some some<br />

in in<br />

rubber<br />

rubber<br />

boots,<br />

boots, a<br />

few few<br />

clutching clutching a<br />

pair pair<br />

of of<br />

leather leather<br />

knee knee<br />

pads, pads,<br />

women<br />

women<br />

in<br />

in their their<br />

invariable invariable<br />

costume costume<br />

of of<br />

an an<br />

old old<br />

flowered flowered<br />

dress dress<br />

and<br />

and<br />

long<br />

long sleeved sleeved<br />

blouse, blouse,<br />

worn worn<br />

over over<br />

trousers trousers<br />

well well<br />

tied tied<br />

at at<br />

the<br />

the<br />

ankles<br />

ankles to to<br />

keep keep<br />

out out<br />

the the<br />

itching itching<br />

muck muck<br />

dust. dust.<br />

Their Their<br />

bandan­<br />

bandannaenaed<br />

heads heads<br />

are are<br />

crowned crowned<br />

by by a<br />

man's man's<br />

felt felt<br />

or or a<br />

wide wide<br />

straw<br />

straw<br />

hat<br />

hat tied tied<br />

beneath beneath<br />

the the<br />

chin.<br />

chin.<br />

Silent<br />

Silent at at<br />

first, first,<br />

the the<br />

mob mob<br />

soon soon<br />

comes comes<br />

to to<br />

life, life,<br />

and and<br />

such such a<br />

bedlam<br />

bedlam of of<br />

jabbering jabbering<br />

and and<br />

laughing laughing<br />

you'd you'd<br />

scarcely scarcely<br />

ever ever<br />

see.<br />

see.<br />

Men<br />

Men wander wander<br />

about, about,<br />

looking looking<br />

over over<br />

the the<br />

trucks. trucks.<br />

Buxom Buxom<br />

wench­<br />

wenchees<br />

gossip gossip<br />

and and<br />

giggle giggle<br />

shrilly. shrilly.<br />

Here Here a<br />

white white<br />

headed headed<br />

patriarch<br />

patriarch<br />

watches<br />

watches in in<br />

silent silent<br />

dignity, dignity,<br />

while while<br />

over over<br />

yonder yonder<br />

an an<br />

exuberant<br />

exuberant<br />

young<br />

young buck buck<br />

in in a<br />

striped striped<br />

jacket, jacket,<br />

prances, prances,<br />

gestures gestures<br />

and and<br />

ges­<br />

gesticulateticulates<br />

from from<br />

the the<br />

pure pure<br />

old old<br />

joy joy<br />

of of<br />

living. living.<br />

The The<br />

sandwich sandwich<br />

man<br />

man<br />

with<br />

with his his<br />

tray, tray,<br />

and and<br />

the the<br />

peanut peanut<br />

man man<br />

with with<br />

his his<br />

paper paper<br />

sacks<br />

sacks<br />

("PeeNUTS<br />

("PeeNUTS !<br />

Boiled and parched! Gittem while they're<br />

Boiled and parched! Gittem while they're<br />

hot!")<br />

hot!") circulate through the gathering crowd. The noise<br />

circulate through the gathering crowd. The noise<br />

abates<br />

abates only when some farmer (or contractor in later days)<br />

only when some farmer (or contractor in later days)<br />

beside<br />

beside his truck, raises his voice in hoarse shout,<br />

his truck, raises his voice in a hoarse shout,<br />

"First<br />

"First picking! Bountifuls Good stand! Fifty cents!"<br />

picking! Bountifuls ! Good stand! Fifty cents!"<br />

If<br />

If this sounds like favorable offer, and if the pickers<br />

this sounds like a favorable offer, and if the pickers<br />

know<br />

know that the beans are good, that there are no sticker<br />

that the beans are good, that there are no sticker<br />

weeds<br />

weeds in the rows and the foreman is not too mean (they<br />

in the rows and the foreman is not too mean (they<br />

always<br />

always seem to know, don't ask me how) few men and<br />

seem to know, don't ask me how) a few men and<br />

women<br />

women grudgingly drift towards his truck. Nobody, of<br />

grudgingly drift towards his truck. Nobody, of<br />

course,<br />

course, is ever in hurry to climb on.<br />

is ever in a hurry to climb on.<br />

Another<br />

Another farmer offers, "Tendergreens, second picking,<br />

farmer offers, "Tendergreens, second picking,<br />

good<br />

good yield! Sixty cents!"<br />

yield! Sixty cents!"<br />

When I I first came to to this lake these gourds still were<br />

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they then<br />

were less luxuriant than the the moon vine, a a kind of of morning<br />

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops and the the exposed<br />

flanks of of the the custard apple woods, making a a shadowy<br />

dusk at at mid day.<br />

ex­<br />

After cruising the the south shore for. nine days the the party<br />

arrived, near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, at at the the<br />

largest and longest of of all all these rivers. This they christened<br />

T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this<br />

stream to to its its end, they laid a a course south by by the the compass<br />

for for Shark River, ninety miles away by by air air line. Although<br />

water had evidently been five feet over the the land not not too too<br />

ed<br />

long before, they found that it it now was a a scant five inches,<br />

and under that was fifteen feet, more or or less, of of soft mud.<br />

So So now they are are compelled to to battle the the sharp-edged<br />

sawgrass, which they had believed to to be be only ten ten miles in in<br />

extent, but but which actually persisted clear to to the the headwaters<br />

of of Shark River. At At times they were able to to burn the the sawgrass,<br />

but but usually the the way must be be hacked with machetes.<br />

For many days they were compelled to to push and lift lift their<br />

boats every foot of of the the way, often making only a a few hundred<br />

yards in in a a day. On On November 17th, a a week after leaving<br />

the the lake, a a tall tall cypress at at Democrat River was still<br />

visible to to the the naked eye.<br />

ing Constantly they were plagued by by innumerable snakes,<br />

though fortunately, nobody was bitten. But they were<br />

tortured by by mosquitoes, leeches and poisonous wampee<br />

plants "which produce a a terrible burning sensation. Its Its<br />

appearance is is similar to to the the water lily, the the leaf being from<br />

six six to to twelve inches across, the the root running to to a a depth<br />

of of six six inches, and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We<br />

had the the curiosity to to taste it. it. We We shall do do so so no no more!"<br />

Yes, I I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee<br />

was a a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it it twice!<br />

Indian turnip it's it's called up up north. It's It's tuber looks like a a

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