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218 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

7,135,000 gallons of molasses. This cane was grown on<br />

30,942 acres, which produced an average of 36.9 tons of<br />

cane, or 3.66 tons of sugar per acre. The grower received<br />

from the Co-op $9.87 per ton of cane, plus possibly a bonus<br />

from the government if the sucrose content exceeded a<br />

certain amount, and he had complied with the government's<br />

strict requirements.<br />

This mill in Belle Glade has been the first to ship raw<br />

sugar by water to the main refinery in Savannah. Two<br />

1090 ton barges make round trips each week. Since the<br />

capacity of the refineries is limited, and since the government<br />

allocates the amount of sugar which can be marketed,<br />

the mills must necessarily hold considerable sugar in<br />

storage. The Belle Glade mill has two 80 foot high A­<br />

shaped warehouses which can hold 80,000 tons of sugar.<br />

At the present moment, near the end of the 1967-68 grinding<br />

season, both these warehouses are chock full.<br />

That<br />

means that there is now $11 million worth of sugar in two<br />

big heaps.<br />

Only in the Everglades, due to its long growing season,<br />

can you see sugar cane tasseling and going to seed, but<br />

this seed is used only in breeding new strains. On the<br />

farms the cane is planted by dropping short lengths of<br />

cane in furrows. Also, and different from Louisiana, the<br />

roots here never freeze, consequently cane may be cut<br />

from the same stubble for four or five years.<br />

Before being harvested, cane fields are fired to burn<br />

off the leaves (they have beards or stickers), then laborers<br />

with broad bladed cane knives cut and top the stalks and<br />

toss them into windrows. A loading machine picks up and<br />

delivers the stalks into tractor drawn wagons, four wagons<br />

to a train. These are driven onto a ramp, capable of being<br />

moved from field to field, where the cane is loaded into a<br />

highway truck holding 18 or 20 tons. At the mill this<br />

truck is automatically unloaded onto a conveyor, 40 percent<br />

going directly to the mill's crushers and rollers which<br />

extract the juice, the remainder being stockpiled for use<br />

FLORIDA'S SUGAR BOWL 219<br />

Six mill tandem crushers and rollers ( under railings) driven by<br />

1000 horsepower turbines. Glades Sugar House, Belle Glade.<br />

at night. The dry residue or bagasse is ordinarily burned<br />

for fuel, but in Belle Glade the Quaker Oats Company has<br />

an adjoining mill which extracts a chemical called furfurol,<br />

used in the manufacture of plastics and in refining<br />

lubricating oil.<br />

Cane juice, after leaving the rollers, is strained and<br />

purified, then heated and reduced to syrup which is cooked<br />

under vacuum until crystals are formed. Centrifugals separate<br />

the crystals from the molasses. The raw ugar is<br />

either loaded into waiting box cars, or is transported to<br />

the storage house, or a barge.<br />

Due to the uncertainty of getting sufficient labor at<br />

harvest time, desperate efforts are being made to perfect<br />

a machine to cut our cane. Such machines are used elsewhere,<br />

but due to our conditions, none have met here with<br />

218 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

7,135,000 gallons of molasses. This cane was grown on<br />

30,942 acres, which produced an average of 36.9 tons of<br />

cane, or 3.66 tons of sugar per acre. The grower received<br />

from the Co-op $9.87 per ton of cane, plus possibly a bonus<br />

from the government if the sucrose content exceeded a<br />

certain amount, and he had complied with the government's<br />

strict requirements.<br />

This mill in Belle Glade has been the first to ship raw<br />

sugar by water to the main refinery in Savannah. Two<br />

1090 ton barges make round trips each week. Since the<br />

capacity of the refineries is limited, and since the government<br />

allocates the amount of sugar which can be marketed,<br />

the mills must necessarily hold considerable sugar in<br />

storage. The Belle Glade mill has two 80 foot high A­<br />

shaped warehouses which can hold 80,000 tons of sugar.<br />

At the present moment, near the end of the 1967-68 grinding<br />

season, both these warehouses are chock full.<br />

That<br />

means that there is now $11 million worth of sugar in two<br />

big heaps.<br />

Only in the Everglades, due to its long growing season,<br />

can you see sugar cane tasseling and going to seed, but<br />

this seed is used only in breeding new strains. On the<br />

farms the cane is planted by dropping short lengths of<br />

cane in furrows. Also, and different from Louisiana, the<br />

roots here never freeze, consequently cane may be cut<br />

from the same stubble for four or five years.<br />

Before being harvested, cane fields are fired to burn<br />

off the leaves (they have beards or stickers), then laborers<br />

with broad bladed cane knives cut and top the stalks and<br />

toss them into windrows. A loading machine picks up and<br />

delivers the stalks into tractor drawn wagons, four wagons<br />

to a train. These are driven onto a ramp, capable of being<br />

moved from field to field, where the cane is loaded into a<br />

highway truck holding 18 or 20 tons. At the mill this<br />

truck is automatically unloaded onto a conveyor, 40 percent<br />

going directly to the mill's crushers and rollers which<br />

extract the juice, the remainder being stockpiled for use<br />

FLORIDA'S SUGAR BOWL 219<br />

Six mill tandem crushers and rollers ( under railings) driven by<br />

1000 horsepower turbines. Glades Sugar House, Belle Glade.<br />

at night. The dry residue or bagasse is ordinarily burned<br />

for fuel, but in Belle Glade the Quaker Oats Company has<br />

an adjoining mill which extracts a chemical called furfurol,<br />

used in the manufacture of plastics and in refining<br />

lubricating oil.<br />

Cane juice, after leaving the rollers, is strained and<br />

purified, then heated and reduced to syrup which is cooked<br />

under vacuum until crystals are formed. Centrifugals separate<br />

the crystals from the molasses. The raw ugar is<br />

either loaded into waiting box cars, or is transported to<br />

the storage house, or a barge.<br />

Due to the uncertainty of getting sufficient labor at<br />

harvest time, desperate efforts are being made to perfect<br />

a machine to cut our cane. Such machines are used elsewhere,<br />

but due to our conditions, none have met here with<br />

218 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

7,135,000 gallons of molasses. This cane was grown on<br />

30,942 acres, which produced an average of 36.9 tons of<br />

cane, or 3.66 tons of sugar per acre. The grower received<br />

from the Co-op $9.87 per ton of cane, plus possibly a bonus<br />

from the government if the sucrose content exceeded a<br />

certain amount, and he had complied with the government's<br />

strict requirements.<br />

This mill in Belle Glade has been the first to ship raw<br />

sugar by water to the main refinery in Savannah. Two<br />

1090 ton barges make round trips each week. Since the<br />

capacity of the refineries is limited, and since the government<br />

allocates the amount of sugar which can be marketed,<br />

the mills must necessarily hold considerable sugar in<br />

storage. The Belle Glade mill has two 80 foot high A­<br />

shaped warehouses which can hold 80,000 tons of sugar.<br />

At the present moment, near the end of the 1967-68 grinding<br />

season, both these warehouses are chock full.<br />

That<br />

means that there is now $11 million worth of sugar in two<br />

big heaps.<br />

Only in the Everglades, due to its long growing season,<br />

can you see sugar cane tasseling and going to seed, but<br />

this seed is used only in breeding new strains. On the<br />

farms the cane is planted by dropping short lengths of<br />

cane in furrows. Also, and different from Louisiana, the<br />

roots here never freeze, consequently cane may be cut<br />

from the same stubble for four or five years.<br />

Before being harvested, cane fields are fired to burn<br />

off the leaves (they have beards or stickers), then laborers<br />

with broad bladed cane knives cut and top the stalks and<br />

toss them into windrows. A loading machine picks up and<br />

delivers the stalks into tractor drawn wagons, four wagons<br />

to a train. These are driven onto a ramp, capable of being<br />

moved from field to field, where the cane is loaded into a<br />

highway truck holding 18 or 20 tons. At the mill this<br />

truck is automatically unloaded onto a conveyor, 40 percent<br />

going directly to the mill's crushers and rollers which<br />

extract the juice, the remainder being stockpiled for use<br />

FLORIDA'S SUGAR BOWL 219<br />

Six mill tandem crushers and rollers ( under railings) driven by<br />

1000 horsepower turbines. Glades Sugar House, Belle Glade.<br />

at night. The dry residue or bagasse is ordinarily burned<br />

for fuel, but in Belle Glade the Quaker Oats Company has<br />

an adjoining mill which extracts a chemical called furfurol,<br />

used in the manufacture of plastics and in refining<br />

lubricating oil.<br />

Cane juice, after leaving the rollers, is strained and<br />

purified, then heated and reduced to syrup which is cooked<br />

under vacuum until crystals are formed. Centrifugals separate<br />

the crystals from the molasses. The raw ugar is<br />

either loaded into waiting box cars, or is transported to<br />

the storage house, or a barge.<br />

Due to the uncertainty of getting sufficient labor at<br />

harvest time, desperate efforts are being made to perfect<br />

a machine to cut our cane. Such machines are used elsewhere,<br />

but due to our conditions, none have met here with<br />

35<br />

scouring.<br />

tlement, got<br />

he couldn't<br />

began franh<br />

sawgrass.<br />

with grass<br />

dark when<br />

t. Finally a<br />

th his boat.<br />

est thing to<br />

been pretty<br />

to be camp<br />

re were the<br />

rrett, Metm<br />

who was<br />

lds and his<br />

little store,<br />

ned, "Shorional<br />

trips<br />

far shorter<br />

anal to Ft.<br />

30 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred<br />

firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,<br />

I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking<br />

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer<br />

showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a<br />

few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,<br />

and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that<br />

wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable<br />

tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I<br />

know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet<br />

strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got<br />

unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee<br />

and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even<br />

the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up<br />

sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their<br />

bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.<br />

As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed<br />

also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.<br />

"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved<br />

by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking<br />

of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator<br />

would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression<br />

we cannot avoid."<br />

As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat<br />

deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their<br />

boats could float and that day they made a mile and a<br />

half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout<br />

five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,<br />

some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the<br />

islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper<br />

and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,<br />

and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they<br />

then were in Shark River, which they descended to its<br />

mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Here they boarded the<br />

schooner which had come to meet them for the return to<br />

civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had<br />

taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day<br />

in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.<br />

DEMOCRAT RIVER 31<br />

Major Williams concludes his report by stating that<br />

the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast<br />

and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time<br />

to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them<br />

now!<br />

And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake<br />

Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,<br />

yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal<br />

was surveyed some thirty years later.<br />

But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was<br />

like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition<br />

gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he<br />

never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.<br />

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't<br />

even noticed.<br />

"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the<br />

first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The<br />

boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed<br />

up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last<br />

time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.<br />

The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than<br />

five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight<br />

perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees<br />

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to<br />

bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach<br />

these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course<br />

has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,<br />

axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is<br />

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,<br />

sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending<br />

across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which<br />

reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of<br />

miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but<br />

has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our<br />

compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,<br />

our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the<br />

state which has never been done before by any white man,<br />

31<br />

tating that<br />

han a vast<br />

for all time<br />

ld see them<br />

.from Lake<br />

the Everiami<br />

Canal<br />

t River was<br />

expedition<br />

enough, he<br />

iver's fork.<br />

hey weren't<br />

s, "ere the<br />

astir." The<br />

were rowed<br />

for the last<br />

les to come.<br />

more than<br />

ith a slight<br />

of the trees<br />

network to<br />

e approach<br />

ater course<br />

e machetes,<br />

journey is<br />

on is reachextending<br />

rees which<br />

a couple of<br />

exists, but<br />

pples. Our<br />

ur voyage,<br />

tion of the<br />

white man,<br />

218 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

7,135,000 gallons of molasses. This cane was grown on<br />

30,942 acres, which produced an average of 36.9 tons of<br />

cane, or 3.66 tons of sugar per acre. The grower received<br />

from the Co-op $9.87 per ton of cane, plus possibly a bonus<br />

from the government if the sucrose content exceeded a<br />

certain amount, and he had complied with the government's<br />

strict requirements.<br />

This mill in Belle Glade has been the first to ship raw<br />

sugar by water to the main refinery in Savannah. Two<br />

1090 ton barges make round trips each week. Since the<br />

capacity of the refineries is limited, and since the government<br />

allocates the amount of sugar which can be marketed,<br />

the mills must necessarily hold considerable sugar in<br />

storage. The Belle Glade mill has two 80 foot high A­<br />

shaped warehouses which can hold 80,000 tons of sugar.<br />

At the present moment, near the end of the 1967-68 grinding<br />

season, both these warehouses are chock full.<br />

That<br />

means that there is now $11 million worth of sugar in two<br />

big heaps.<br />

Only in the Everglades, due to its long growing season,<br />

can you see sugar cane tasseling and going to seed, but<br />

this seed is used only in breeding new strains. On the<br />

farms the cane is planted by dropping short lengths of<br />

cane in furrows. Also, and different from Louisiana, the<br />

roots here never freeze, consequently cane may be cut<br />

from the same stubble for four or five years.<br />

Before being harvested, cane fields are fired to burn<br />

off the leaves (they have beards or stickers), then laborers<br />

with broad bladed cane knives cut and top the stalks and<br />

toss them into windrows. A loading machine picks up and<br />

delivers the stalks into tractor drawn wagons, four wagons<br />

to a train. These are driven onto a ramp, capable of being<br />

moved from field to field, where the cane is loaded into a<br />

highway truck holding 18 or 20 tons. At the mill this<br />

truck is automatically unloaded onto a conveyor, 40 percent<br />

going directly to the mill's crushers and rollers which<br />

extract the juice, the remainder being stockpiled for use<br />

FLORIDA'S SUGAR BOWL 219<br />

Six mill tandem crushers and rollers ( under railings) driven by<br />

1000 horsepower turbines. Glades Sugar House, Belle Glade.<br />

at night. The dry residue or bagasse is ordinarily burned<br />

for fuel, but in Belle Glade the Quaker Oats Company has<br />

an adjoining mill which extracts a chemical called furfurol,<br />

used in the manufacture of plastics and in refining<br />

lubricating oil.<br />

Cane juice, after leaving the rollers, is strained and<br />

purified, then heated and reduced to syrup which is cooked<br />

under vacuum until crystals are formed. Centrifugals separate<br />

the crystals from the molasses. The raw ugar is<br />

either loaded into waiting box cars, or is transported to<br />

the storage house, or a barge.<br />

Due to the uncertainty of getting sufficient labor at<br />

harvest time, desperate efforts are being made to perfect<br />

a machine to cut our cane. Such machines are used elsewhere,<br />

but due to our conditions, none have met here with<br />

34 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

Big Ben tractor and experimental plow.<br />

I was one of them, set up camp there, and in a few years<br />

Okeelanta became the biggest town, except for Moore<br />

Haven, (a;d of course, Davie, back of Ft. Lauderdale, the<br />

first one of all) in the whole dad burned Everglades. At<br />

first, though, it looked as if Glade Crest was likely to<br />

eclipse Okeelanta, but floods and frosts and frontier hardships<br />

like to have finished them both. Glade Crest has<br />

vanished without a trace, but Okeelanta has survived -<br />

well, to a certain extent, that is.<br />

Holland and Butterworth, who had sold land for R. J.<br />

Bolles, but had a falling out, bought from the Southern<br />

States Land and Timber Company all of Section 20, Township<br />

44 and Range 38, and they christened it Glade Crest.<br />

This land they then sold in five and ten acre tracts, "sight<br />

unseen", to people in the north. When the first settlers<br />

arrived the land had not yet even been surveyed. However,<br />

the following fall a surveyor, Cleveland W. Horne arrived.<br />

In later years he was to have the honor of being Grand<br />

Master of Masons in Florida. Horne ran a line from the<br />

coast, arid subdivided the section into ten acre tracts.<br />

On this job, while burning off the sawgrass, some of<br />

the crew got surrounded by the raging fire and had to<br />

swim the canal. That wasn't so bad, but a few days later,<br />

GLADE CREST 35<br />

Sawgrass plow with mouldboard slatted for better scouring.<br />

one of these same boys, while far from the settlement, got<br />

bitten by a moccasin. His ankle swelled until he couldn't<br />

work, so the crew abandoned surveying and began frantically<br />

to hack a trail through the head high sawgrass.<br />

They knew the direction to the settlement but with grass<br />

so high, couldn't see any buildings. It was pitch dark when<br />

they got to the canal, and they began to shout. Finally a<br />

settler heard the racket and rescued them with his boat.<br />

The leg was doctored with turpentine, the nearest thing to<br />

medicine in the camp.<br />

The boy must have been pretty<br />

tough for the leg got well, but he was promoted to be camp<br />

cook after that.<br />

By the winter of 1914-15, besides Slade, there were the<br />

families of Baker, Daniel, Elsasser, Herndon, Garrett, Metcalf<br />

and two Bissell families and a Mrs. Chisolm who was<br />

sister to one of the Bissell ladies. Later, Shields and his<br />

son, who had some boats and barges, started a little store,<br />

and since the Hillsboro canal had just been opened, "Shorty"<br />

Woods, in his boat Bonnie made occasional trips<br />

down it to the coast. Although this route was far shorter<br />

than by way of Torry Island and down the canal to Ft.<br />

30 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred<br />

firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,<br />

I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking<br />

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer<br />

showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a<br />

few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,<br />

and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that<br />

wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable<br />

tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I<br />

know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet<br />

strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got<br />

unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee<br />

and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even<br />

the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up<br />

sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their<br />

bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.<br />

As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed<br />

also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.<br />

"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved<br />

by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking<br />

of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator<br />

would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression<br />

we cannot avoid."<br />

As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat<br />

deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their<br />

boats could float and that day they made a mile and a<br />

half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout<br />

five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,<br />

some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the<br />

islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper<br />

and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,<br />

and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they<br />

then were in Shark River, which they descended to its<br />

mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Here they boarded the<br />

schooner which had come to meet them for the return to<br />

civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had<br />

taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day<br />

in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.<br />

DEMOCRAT RIVER 31<br />

Major Williams concludes his report by stating that<br />

the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast<br />

and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time<br />

to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them<br />

now!<br />

And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake<br />

Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,<br />

yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal<br />

was surveyed some thirty years later.<br />

But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was<br />

like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition<br />

gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he<br />

never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.<br />

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't<br />

even noticed.<br />

"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the<br />

first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The<br />

boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed<br />

up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last<br />

time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.<br />

The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than<br />

five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight<br />

perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees<br />

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to<br />

bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach<br />

these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course<br />

has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,<br />

axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is<br />

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,<br />

sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending<br />

across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which<br />

reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of<br />

miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but<br />

has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our<br />

compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,<br />

our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the<br />

state which has never been done before by any white man,<br />

30 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred<br />

firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,<br />

I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking<br />

one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer<br />

showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a<br />

few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,<br />

and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that<br />

wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable<br />

tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I<br />

know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet<br />

strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got<br />

unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee<br />

and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even<br />

the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up<br />

sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their<br />

bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.<br />

As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed<br />

also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.<br />

"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved<br />

by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking<br />

of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator<br />

would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression<br />

we cannot avoid."<br />

As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat<br />

deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their<br />

boats could float and that day they made a mile and a<br />

half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout<br />

five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,<br />

some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the<br />

islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper<br />

and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,<br />

and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they<br />

then were in Shark River, which they descended to its<br />

mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Here they boarded the<br />

schooner which had come to meet them for the return to<br />

civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had<br />

taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day<br />

in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.<br />

DEMOCRAT RIVER 31<br />

Major Williams concludes his report by stating that<br />

the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast<br />

and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time<br />

to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them<br />

now!<br />

And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake<br />

Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,<br />

yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal<br />

was surveyed some thirty years later.<br />

But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was<br />

like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition<br />

gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he<br />

never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.<br />

Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't<br />

even noticed.<br />

"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the<br />

first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The<br />

boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed<br />

up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last<br />

time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.<br />

The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than<br />

five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight<br />

perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees<br />

lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to<br />

bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach<br />

these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course<br />

has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,<br />

axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is<br />

resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,<br />

sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending<br />

across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which<br />

reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of<br />

miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but<br />

has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our<br />

compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,<br />

our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the<br />

state which has never been done before by any white man,

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