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170 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
folks would gab and gossip.<br />
The young bucks<br />
would whisper to the gals,<br />
who then would try to<br />
elude their ever watchful<br />
mamas while they slipped<br />
off to where it might be<br />
peaceful and quiet, for to<br />
do a bit of courting.<br />
Shine jugs would circulate,<br />
while folks swapped<br />
lies and talked about their<br />
neighbors. Before dark, of<br />
course, there most generally<br />
would be a few fist<br />
fights, t h e n everybody<br />
would chug - chug home<br />
after having<br />
a glorious<br />
Fritz Stein (left) and Fred Greer.<br />
holiday.<br />
After we got some schoolhouses on this lake, then folks<br />
began to have square dances, since those were the o _ nly<br />
buildings with floors big enough to dance on. At one time<br />
there used to be a square dance every Saturday in Okeelanta,<br />
South Bay or Belle Glade. In Okeelanta the frolics<br />
were held in the town hall, a 30 by 60 building near the<br />
school. South Bay was half way between the other two<br />
settlements, but to get from Okeelanta to Belle Glade or<br />
the other way about, you'd have to go by way of Torry<br />
Island, a trip of eight or nine miles which would take you<br />
well over an hour. Still, I reckon there's worse ways to<br />
spend an hour than with your arm around your girl friend.<br />
Everybody, of course, came by boat. If you didn't have<br />
a boat you'd just have to stay at home. There was only one<br />
family which came to the Okeelanta dances by land. At<br />
that time Walter Greer and his wife, and his son Allen<br />
with his wife and kids lived far out in the sawgrass south<br />
of Belle Glade. On a dance night, just before dark, you'd<br />
FUN AND FROLICS 171<br />
see Allen, wrapped head and ears in a linen "duster", piloting<br />
his wide-wheeled Fordson tractor through the sawgrass.1<br />
Behind, in a flat-bodied and wide-tired wagon, were both<br />
families, partly shielded from the itching muck dust by<br />
an old tarpaulin. Allen would "yoo-hoo" like a Seminole<br />
and someone would ferry the whole flock across the canal.<br />
Then they'd all have to repair to some house for to wash<br />
off that dust so's they'd look like white folks again. And<br />
how those Greers loved to dance! You'd often see all three<br />
generations dancing on the floor at once.<br />
These dances used to break up at midnight, for folks<br />
didn't believe in dancing on the Sabbath, and especially<br />
since they'd be holding a Sunday school in the same building<br />
in just a few hours. These settlers weren't like those catfishers<br />
who danced at John Upthegrove's camp for two<br />
days and two nights without a stop for breath. With plenty<br />
of drinking liquor on hand, those catfishing boys and<br />
girls just didn't know when to quit.<br />
About the time that Belle Glade was beginning to be a<br />
town, there was a bunch of young bucks here who loved<br />
to stir up some kind of devilment. The main ones seemed<br />
to be "Slick" Kirchman, "Gator" Tillery, Paul Davidson,<br />
"Shorty" DeLaurie, all the Greer boys, and of course the<br />
town marshall (and later High Sheriff), John Kirk. Then<br />
from Chosen, roaring down that rocky road on their motor<br />
cycles, would come Hans and Fritz Stein and Dick Lefils.<br />
One of their games, whensomever some young buck<br />
would arrive in town, was to ask him if he wouldn't like<br />
to go to Mable's house. Now Mable, he'd be informed, lived<br />
just outside the settlement. If he'd slip out to her house<br />
some night, rap on the door and say, "My name's Joe",<br />
she'd likely let him in. Of course, since he couldn't find the<br />
house by himself, some of the gang would be good sports<br />
and pilot him out there.<br />
Now unbeknownst to this love sick swain, "Mable",<br />
suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda,<br />
170 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
folks would gab and gossip.<br />
The young bucks<br />
would whisper to the gals,<br />
who then would try to<br />
elude their ever watchful<br />
mamas while they slipped<br />
off to where it might be<br />
peaceful and quiet, for to<br />
do a bit of courting.<br />
Shine jugs would circulate,<br />
while folks swapped<br />
lies and talked about their<br />
neighbors. Before dark, of<br />
course, there most generally<br />
would be a few fist<br />
fights, t h e n everybody<br />
would chug - chug home<br />
after having<br />
a glorious<br />
Fritz Stein (left) and Fred Greer.<br />
holiday.<br />
After we got some schoolhouses on this lake, then folks<br />
began to have square dances, since those were the o _ nly<br />
buildings with floors big enough to dance on. At one time<br />
there used to be a square dance every Saturday in Okeelanta,<br />
South Bay or Belle Glade. In Okeelanta the frolics<br />
were held in the town hall, a 30 by 60 building near the<br />
school. South Bay was half way between the other two<br />
settlements, but to get from Okeelanta to Belle Glade or<br />
the other way about, you'd have to go by way of Torry<br />
Island, a trip of eight or nine miles which would take you<br />
well over an hour. Still, I reckon there's worse ways to<br />
spend an hour than with your arm around your girl friend.<br />
Everybody, of course, came by boat. If you didn't have<br />
a boat you'd just have to stay at home. There was only one<br />
family which came to the Okeelanta dances by land. At<br />
that time Walter Greer and his wife, and his son Allen<br />
with his wife and kids lived far out in the sawgrass south<br />
of Belle Glade. On a dance night, just before dark, you'd<br />
FUN AND FROLICS 171<br />
see Allen, wrapped head and ears in a linen "duster", piloting<br />
his wide-wheeled Fordson tractor through the sawgrass.1<br />
Behind, in a flat-bodied and wide-tired wagon, were both<br />
families, partly shielded from the itching muck dust by<br />
an old tarpaulin. Allen would "yoo-hoo" like a Seminole<br />
and someone would ferry the whole flock across the canal.<br />
Then they'd all have to repair to some house for to wash<br />
off that dust so's they'd look like white folks again. And<br />
how those Greers loved to dance! You'd often see all three<br />
generations dancing on the floor at once.<br />
These dances used to break up at midnight, for folks<br />
didn't believe in dancing on the Sabbath, and especially<br />
since they'd be holding a Sunday school in the same building<br />
in just a few hours. These settlers weren't like those catfishers<br />
who danced at John Upthegrove's camp for two<br />
days and two nights without a stop for breath. With plenty<br />
of drinking liquor on hand, those catfishing boys and<br />
girls just didn't know when to quit.<br />
About the time that Belle Glade was beginning to be a<br />
town, there was a bunch of young bucks here who loved<br />
to stir up some kind of devilment. The main ones seemed<br />
to be "Slick" Kirchman, "Gator" Tillery, Paul Davidson,<br />
"Shorty" DeLaurie, all the Greer boys, and of course the<br />
town marshall (and later High Sheriff), John Kirk. Then<br />
from Chosen, roaring down that rocky road on their motor<br />
cycles, would come Hans and Fritz Stein and Dick Lefils.<br />
One of their games, whensomever some young buck<br />
would arrive in town, was to ask him if he wouldn't like<br />
to go to Mable's house. Now Mable, he'd be informed, lived<br />
just outside the settlement. If he'd slip out to her house<br />
some night, rap on the door and say, "My name's Joe",<br />
she'd likely let him in. Of course, since he couldn't find the<br />
house by himself, some of the gang would be good sports<br />
and pilot him out there.<br />
Now unbeknownst to this love sick swain, "Mable",<br />
suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda,<br />
170 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
folks would gab and gossip.<br />
The young bucks<br />
would whisper to the gals,<br />
who then would try to<br />
elude their ever watchful<br />
mamas while they slipped<br />
off to where it might be<br />
peaceful and quiet, for to<br />
do a bit of courting.<br />
Shine jugs would circulate,<br />
while folks swapped<br />
lies and talked about their<br />
neighbors. Before dark, of<br />
course, there most generally<br />
would be a few fist<br />
fights, t h e n everybody<br />
would chug - chug home<br />
after having<br />
a glorious<br />
Fritz Stein (left) and Fred Greer.<br />
holiday.<br />
After we got some schoolhouses on this lake, then folks<br />
began to have square dances, since those were the o _ nly<br />
buildings with floors big enough to dance on. At one time<br />
there used to be a square dance every Saturday in Okeelanta,<br />
South Bay or Belle Glade. In Okeelanta the frolics<br />
were held in the town hall, a 30 by 60 building near the<br />
school. South Bay was half way between the other two<br />
settlements, but to get from Okeelanta to Belle Glade or<br />
the other way about, you'd have to go by way of Torry<br />
Island, a trip of eight or nine miles which would take you<br />
well over an hour. Still, I reckon there's worse ways to<br />
spend an hour than with your arm around your girl friend.<br />
Everybody, of course, came by boat. If you didn't have<br />
a boat you'd just have to stay at home. There was only one<br />
family which came to the Okeelanta dances by land. At<br />
that time Walter Greer and his wife, and his son Allen<br />
with his wife and kids lived far out in the sawgrass south<br />
of Belle Glade. On a dance night, just before dark, you'd<br />
FUN AND FROLICS 171<br />
see Allen, wrapped head and ears in a linen "duster", piloting<br />
his wide-wheeled Fordson tractor through the sawgrass.1<br />
Behind, in a flat-bodied and wide-tired wagon, were both<br />
families, partly shielded from the itching muck dust by<br />
an old tarpaulin. Allen would "yoo-hoo" like a Seminole<br />
and someone would ferry the whole flock across the canal.<br />
Then they'd all have to repair to some house for to wash<br />
off that dust so's they'd look like white folks again. And<br />
how those Greers loved to dance! You'd often see all three<br />
generations dancing on the floor at once.<br />
These dances used to break up at midnight, for folks<br />
didn't believe in dancing on the Sabbath, and especially<br />
since they'd be holding a Sunday school in the same building<br />
in just a few hours. These settlers weren't like those catfishers<br />
who danced at John Upthegrove's camp for two<br />
days and two nights without a stop for breath. With plenty<br />
of drinking liquor on hand, those catfishing boys and<br />
girls just didn't know when to quit.<br />
About the time that Belle Glade was beginning to be a<br />
town, there was a bunch of young bucks here who loved<br />
to stir up some kind of devilment. The main ones seemed<br />
to be "Slick" Kirchman, "Gator" Tillery, Paul Davidson,<br />
"Shorty" DeLaurie, all the Greer boys, and of course the<br />
town marshall (and later High Sheriff), John Kirk. Then<br />
from Chosen, roaring down that rocky road on their motor<br />
cycles, would come Hans and Fritz Stein and Dick Lefils.<br />
One of their games, whensomever some young buck<br />
would arrive in town, was to ask him if he wouldn't like<br />
to go to Mable's house. Now Mable, he'd be informed, lived<br />
just outside the settlement. If he'd slip out to her house<br />
some night, rap on the door and say, "My name's Joe",<br />
she'd likely let him in. Of course, since he couldn't find the<br />
house by himself, some of the gang would be good sports<br />
and pilot him out there.<br />
Now unbeknownst to this love sick swain, "Mable",<br />
suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda,<br />
172 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
Hog hunting party, about 1920. Left to right - Negro porter,<br />
Frank O'Connell, Nelle Greer with dog, Claire Greer in rear,<br />
Loti Greer far right.<br />
would probably be Paul Davidson. But good grief, on this<br />
particular night her husband would be at home, and he<br />
would be nobody but John Kirk, the marshall ! After Mable<br />
FUN AND FROLICS 173<br />
the door and the shooting started, Jackson flopped down<br />
on his face.<br />
"Git going, Albert." he cried. "I'm hit and I think that<br />
I'm a-dying!"<br />
Albert high-tailed it back to Pahokee where some of<br />
his friends, previously tipped off, were conveniently waiting.<br />
They all drove down for to avenge their friend. In<br />
the ensuing gun battle, two more Pahokee-ites were likewise<br />
"killed", and poor Albert didn't dare go home for a<br />
week.<br />
Another game of this rough neck bunch was to initiate<br />
a newly married man by tossing him off the Main Street<br />
bridge. They didn't fail to get me either. I had gone to<br />
Tennessee to get my bride, but I left her with my parents<br />
in Ft. Lauderdale till I could get our living quarters finished.<br />
One night "Big" Pate hurried upstairs to inform me<br />
that I had a long distance call from Ft. Lauderdale. Gosh,<br />
I knew that was important, so down I rushed to dash<br />
across to the telephone in the hotel. It looked as if the<br />
whole blamed settlement was lined up in the street! I was<br />
right good at running, but not so hot at dodging, so Pate<br />
got me cornered and the whole mob then escorted me to<br />
the bridge where I had to high dive into that black, cold<br />
water.<br />
Homer Deloach had married a young widow who had<br />
a couple of girls. The boys ganged up to give him the customary<br />
dunking, but Homer decided to object. Now, Homer<br />
wasn't very tall, but he had remarkably broad shoulders<br />
28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
part of this stream was dredged out some five years later<br />
to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston<br />
had intended to continue on to Shark River. It now forms<br />
part of the Miami canal. As this stream was typical of the<br />
lake's dead rivers, including the Democrat, let's see what<br />
it was like.<br />
"The river at its mouth is about 100 yards wide, the<br />
depth of water being about eight feet. To say that our<br />
little party was overjoyed would but poorly express it. We<br />
do not go one hundred yards before we hear exclamations<br />
from the members of the party in praise of the beautiful<br />
scenery which greets the eye on every side. There is no<br />
perceptible current so far as we can discern. The water is<br />
clear as crystal, the banks fringed with a dense tropical<br />
growth of trees, presenting to the view a solid green wall,<br />
impenetrable to the eye. This wall is formed by vines,<br />
which have twined around the trunks and branches of the<br />
trees, and have interlaced and wound themselves around<br />
each other until they form a screen which is almost sufficient<br />
to shut out the light of day. Looking behind us we<br />
find that we are followed by innumerable alligators, who<br />
are swimming lazily along in our wake. From all sides we<br />
see them plunging in the water, remain under for a few<br />
seconds, rise after we have passed and join the crowd behind<br />
us. We do not go two miles before the river begins<br />
to get narrow, and we find ourselves in a little stream only<br />
a few yards in width, the sunlight completely shut out by<br />
the branches of trees and vines, which have interlocked<br />
and twined around each other until a perfect roof is formed<br />
... After going half a mile, we find we are no longer in<br />
a stream, but winding around in dark, sluggish water, the<br />
roots and branches of the trees forming a barrier to our<br />
further progress ... As we return we examine more closely<br />
the vines which grow so luxuriantly, and find that they are<br />
a species of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from<br />
them, perfectly round, and about the size of a billiard ball.<br />
The vines run all over the trees, and on the ground form<br />
a mat two or three feet deep."<br />
DEMOCRAT RIVER 29<br />
When I first came to this lake these gourds still were<br />
plentiful in the custard apple forest, although they then<br />
were less luxuriant than the moon vine, a kind of morning<br />
glory, which completely blanketed the tops and the exposed<br />
flanks of the custard apple woods, making a shadowy<br />
dusk at mid day.<br />
After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party<br />
arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, at the<br />
largest and longest of all these rivers. This they christened<br />
T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this<br />
stream to its end, they laid a course south by the compass<br />
for Shark River, ninety miles away by air line. Although<br />
water had evidently been five feet over the land not too<br />
long before, they found that it now was a scant five inches,<br />
and under that was fifteen feet, more or less, of soft mud.<br />
So now they are compelled to battle the sharp-edged<br />
sawgrass, which they had believed to be only ten miles in<br />
extent, but which actually persisted clear to the headwaters<br />
of Shark River. At times they were able to burn the sawgrass,<br />
but usually the way must be hacked with machetes.<br />
For many days they were compelled to push and lift their<br />
boats every foot of the way, often making only a few hundred<br />
yards in a day. On November 17th, a week after leaving<br />
the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still<br />
visible to the naked eye.<br />
Constantly they were plagued by innumerable snakes,<br />
though fortunately, nobody was bitten. But they were<br />
tortured by mosquitoes, leeches and poisonous wampee<br />
plants "which produce a terrible burning sensation. Its<br />
appearance is similar to the water lily, the leaf being from<br />
six to twelve inches across, the root running to a depth<br />
of six inches, and resembles a shallot in appearance. We<br />
had the curiosity to taste it. We shall do so no more!"<br />
Yes, I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee<br />
was a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it twice!<br />
Indian turnip it's called up north. It's tuber looks like a<br />
30 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred<br />
firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,<br />
I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking<br />
one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer<br />
showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a<br />
few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,<br />
and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that<br />
wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable<br />
tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I<br />
know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet<br />
strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got<br />
unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee<br />
and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even<br />
the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up<br />
sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their<br />
bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.<br />
As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed<br />
also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.<br />
"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved<br />
by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking<br />
of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator<br />
would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression<br />
we cannot avoid."<br />
As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat<br />
deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their<br />
boats could float and that day they made a mile and a<br />
half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout<br />
five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,<br />
some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the<br />
islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper<br />
and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,<br />
and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they<br />
then were in Shark River, which they descended to its<br />
mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.<br />
Here they boarded the<br />
schooner which had come to meet them for the return to<br />
civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had<br />
taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day<br />
in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.<br />
DEMOCRAT RIVER 31<br />
Major Williams concludes his report by stating that<br />
the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast<br />
and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time<br />
to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them<br />
now!<br />
And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake<br />
Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,<br />
yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal<br />
was surveyed some thirty years later.<br />
But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was<br />
like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition<br />
gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he<br />
never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.<br />
Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't<br />
even noticed.<br />
"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the<br />
first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The<br />
boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed<br />
up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last<br />
time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.<br />
The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than<br />
five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight<br />
perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees<br />
lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to<br />
bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach<br />
these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course<br />
has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,<br />
axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is<br />
resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,<br />
sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending<br />
across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which<br />
reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of<br />
miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but<br />
has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our<br />
compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,<br />
our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the<br />
state which has never been done before by any white man,<br />
31<br />
tating that<br />
han a vast<br />
for all time<br />
ld see them<br />
.from Lake<br />
the Everiami<br />
Canal<br />
t River was<br />
expedition<br />
enough, he<br />
iver's fork.<br />
hey weren't<br />
s, "ere the<br />
astir." The<br />
were rowed<br />
for the last<br />
les to come.<br />
more than<br />
ith a slight<br />
of the trees<br />
network to<br />
e approach<br />
ater course<br />
e machetes,<br />
journey is<br />
on is reachextending<br />
rees which<br />
a couple of<br />
exists, but<br />
pples. Our<br />
ur voyage,<br />
tion of the<br />
white man,<br />
30 BE<br />
big and delici<br />
dred firecrack<br />
I decided to b<br />
ing one in sev<br />
er showed, I<br />
few seconds m<br />
and the sensa<br />
wampee juice<br />
numerable tin<br />
know that's s<br />
strangely eno<br />
unbelievably f<br />
and squeal in<br />
the jackdaws<br />
sawgrass root<br />
bills toward t<br />
As the pa<br />
also to have b<br />
"All aroun<br />
by any sound<br />
ing of a frog,<br />
gator would b<br />
sion we canno<br />
As they pr<br />
what deeper.<br />
boats could f<br />
half. On the<br />
about five fee<br />
some five acr<br />
islands were m<br />
and more plen<br />
and on Decem<br />
then were in<br />
mouth at the<br />
schooner whic<br />
civilization. T<br />
taken 27 days<br />
in Shark Rive<br />
30 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
big and delicious potato, but it is hotter than seven hundred<br />
firecrackers. Although I had seen men taste wampee,<br />
I decided to be smart and boil the poison out. After cooking<br />
one in several waters until the lavender liquid no longer<br />
showed, I took one cautious bite and spit it out. In a<br />
few seconds my mouth felt like a thousand burning needles,<br />
and the sensation lasted until next day. Scientists say that<br />
wampee juice contains microscopic balls which expel innumerable<br />
tiny needles with great force. Great grief, I<br />
know that's so, and those needles are red hot to boot! Yet<br />
strangely enough, wild hogs used to love the root, and got<br />
unbelievably fat on it. A sawgrass hog would eat a wampee<br />
and squeal in pain, but then he'd root up another. Even<br />
the jackdaws which used to follow us as we grubbed up<br />
sawgrass roots, would peck on a wampee, then gape their<br />
bills toward the sky while their tongues cooled off.<br />
As the party penetrated the Everglades they seemed<br />
also to have been oppressed by the uncanny silence.<br />
"All around us reigns a death-like stillness unrelieved<br />
by any sound of animal life of any description. The croaking<br />
of a frog, the hoot of an owl, or the bellow of an alligator<br />
would be a relief." This caused a "feeling of depression<br />
we cannot avoid."<br />
As they progressed, the water in places became somewhat<br />
deeper. On the 21st they found ponds in which their<br />
boats could float and that day they made a mile and a<br />
half. On the 24th the first dry ground was discoveredabout<br />
five feet square, and on the 28th their first island,<br />
some five acres in extent. However on December 3rd the<br />
islands were more numerous and the water courses deeper<br />
and more plentiful. On that day they made fifteen miles,<br />
and on December 6th they travelled thirty-five, for they<br />
then were in Shark River, which they descended to its<br />
mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.<br />
Here they boarded the<br />
schooner which had come to meet them for the return to<br />
civilization. The entire trip from Lake Okeechobee had<br />
taken 27 days and their average speed, except for the day<br />
in Shark River, had been only three miles a day.<br />
DEMOCRAT RIVER 31<br />
Major Williams concludes his report by stating that<br />
the Everglades "are nothing more nor less than a vast<br />
and useless marsh, and such they will remain for all time<br />
to come in my estimation." Good golly, he should see them<br />
now!<br />
And so that was the first trip ever made .from Lake<br />
Okeechobee southward through the length of the Everglades,<br />
yes, and the last one too, until the Miami Canal<br />
was surveyed some thirty years later.<br />
But let's take a closer look at what Democrat River was<br />
like in those primeval days. The scribe of this expedition<br />
gives us a detailed account, though curiously enough, he<br />
never mentions those ancient mounds at the river's fork.<br />
Maybe the jungle growth was so dense that they weren't<br />
even noticed.<br />
"On the 10th day of November," he relates, "ere the<br />
first streaks of dawn, every man in camp was astir." The<br />
boats were loaded and for a few hundred yards were rowed<br />
up the stream. Then the oars were stowed away for the last<br />
time "for poles will have to be used for many miles to come.<br />
The river has narrowed down to a stream not more than<br />
five or six feet in depth, dark, sluggish and with a slight<br />
perceptible current running north. The boughs of the trees<br />
lap over the water, the vines form a perfect network to<br />
bar our progress, and to all appearances when we approach<br />
these barriers it seems as if the end of the water course<br />
has been reached, but with a few strokes of the machetes,<br />
axes and hatchets our way is cleared, and our journey is<br />
resumed for a few yards until the next obstruction is reached,<br />
sometimes a sunken log, the roots of trees extending<br />
across the whole channel, or the branches of trees which<br />
reach the surface of the water. We have gone a couple of<br />
miles when we discover that the river no longer exists, but<br />
has lost itself in the dense swamp of custard apples. Our<br />
compass is now, and will be until the end of our voyage,<br />
our only guide. We are now penetrating a portion of the<br />
state which has never been done before by any white man,<br />
28 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
part of this stream was dredged out some five years later<br />
to become a part of the Thirteen Mile Canal which Disston<br />
had intended to continue on to Shark River. It now forms<br />
part of the Miami canal. As this stream was typical of the<br />
lake's dead rivers, including the Democrat, let's see what<br />
it was like.<br />
"The river at its mouth is about 100 yards wide, the<br />
depth of water being about eight feet. To say that our<br />
little party was overjoyed would but poorly express it. We<br />
do not go one hundred yards before we hear exclamations<br />
from the members of the party in praise of the beautiful<br />
scenery which greets the eye on every side. There is no<br />
perceptible current so far as we can discern. The water is<br />
clear as crystal, the banks fringed with a dense tropical<br />
growth of trees, presenting to the view a solid green wall,<br />
impenetrable to the eye. This wall is formed by vines,<br />
which have twined around the trunks and branches of the<br />
trees, and have interlaced and wound themselves around<br />
each other until they form a screen which is almost sufficient<br />
to shut out the light of day. Looking behind us we<br />
find that we are followed by innumerable alligators, who<br />
are swimming lazily along in our wake. From all sides we<br />
see them plunging in the water, remain under for a few<br />
seconds, rise after we have passed and join the crowd behind<br />
us. We do not go two miles before the river begins<br />
to get narrow, and we find ourselves in a little stream only<br />
a few yards in width, the sunlight completely shut out by<br />
the branches of trees and vines, which have interlocked<br />
and twined around each other until a perfect roof is formed<br />
... After going half a mile, we find we are no longer in<br />
a stream, but winding around in dark, sluggish water, the<br />
roots and branches of the trees forming a barrier to our<br />
further progress ... As we return we examine more closely<br />
the vines which grow so luxuriantly, and find that they are<br />
a species of gourd, with innumerable gourds hanging from<br />
them, perfectly round, and about the size of a billiard ball.<br />
The vines run all over the trees, and on the ground form<br />
a mat two or three feet deep."<br />
DEMOCRAT RIVER 29<br />
When I first came to this lake these gourds still were<br />
plentiful in the custard apple forest, although they then<br />
were less luxuriant than the moon vine, a kind of morning<br />
glory, which completely blanketed the tops and the exposed<br />
flanks of the custard apple woods, making a shadowy<br />
dusk at mid day.<br />
After cruising the south shore for. nine days the party<br />
arrived, near the southernmost point on the lake, at the<br />
largest and longest of all these rivers. This they christened<br />
T-D, or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this<br />
stream to its end, they laid a course south by the compass<br />
for Shark River, ninety miles away by air line. Although<br />
water had evidently been five feet over the land not too<br />
long before, they found that it now was a scant five inches,<br />
and under that was fifteen feet, more or less, of soft mud.<br />
So now they are compelled to battle the sharp-edged<br />
sawgrass, which they had believed to be only ten miles in<br />
extent, but which actually persisted clear to the headwaters<br />
of Shark River. At times they were able to burn the sawgrass,<br />
but usually the way must be hacked with machetes.<br />
For many days they were compelled to push and lift their<br />
boats every foot of the way, often making only a few hundred<br />
yards in a day. On November 17th, a week after leaving<br />
the lake, a tall cypress at Democrat River was still<br />
visible to the naked eye.<br />
Constantly they were plagued by innumerable snakes,<br />
though fortunately, nobody was bitten. But they were<br />
tortured by mosquitoes, leeches and poisonous wampee<br />
plants "which produce a terrible burning sensation. Its<br />
appearance is similar to the water lily, the leaf being from<br />
six to twelve inches across, the root running to a depth<br />
of six inches, and resembles a shallot in appearance. We<br />
had the curiosity to taste it. We shall do so no more!"<br />
Yes, I know blamed well they didn't! That wampee<br />
was a hellish plant, nobody would ever taste it twice!<br />
Indian turnip it's called up north. It's tuber looks like a<br />
170 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />
folks would gab and gossip.<br />
The young bucks<br />
would whisper to the gals,<br />
who then would try to<br />
elude their ever watchful<br />
mamas while they slipped<br />
off to where it might be<br />
peaceful and quiet, for to<br />
do a bit of courting.<br />
Shine jugs would circulate,<br />
while folks swapped<br />
lies and talked about their<br />
neighbors. Before dark, of<br />
course, there most generally<br />
would be a few fist<br />
fights, t h e n everybody<br />
would chug - chug home<br />
after having<br />
a glorious<br />
Fritz Stein (left) and Fred Greer.<br />
holiday.<br />
After we got some schoolhouses on this lake, then folks<br />
began to have square dances, since those were the o _ nly<br />
buildings with floors big enough to dance on. At one time<br />
there used to be a square dance every Saturday in Okeelanta,<br />
South Bay or Belle Glade. In Okeelanta the frolics<br />
were held in the town hall, a 30 by 60 building near the<br />
school. South Bay was half way between the other two<br />
settlements, but to get from Okeelanta to Belle Glade or<br />
the other way about, you'd have to go by way of Torry<br />
Island, a trip of eight or nine miles which would take you<br />
well over an hour. Still, I reckon there's worse ways to<br />
spend an hour than with your arm around your girl friend.<br />
Everybody, of course, came by boat. If you didn't have<br />
a boat you'd just have to stay at home. There was only one<br />
family which came to the Okeelanta dances by land. At<br />
that time Walter Greer and his wife, and his son Allen<br />
with his wife and kids lived far out in the sawgrass south<br />
of Belle Glade. On a dance night, just before dark, you'd<br />
FUN AND FROLICS 171<br />
see Allen, wrapped head and ears in a linen "duster", piloting<br />
his wide-wheeled Fordson tractor through the sawgrass.1<br />
Behind, in a flat-bodied and wide-tired wagon, were both<br />
families, partly shielded from the itching muck dust by<br />
an old tarpaulin. Allen would "yoo-hoo" like a Seminole<br />
and someone would ferry the whole flock across the canal.<br />
Then they'd all have to repair to some house for to wash<br />
off that dust so's they'd look like white folks again. And<br />
how those Greers loved to dance! You'd often see all three<br />
generations dancing on the floor at once.<br />
These dances used to break up at midnight, for folks<br />
didn't believe in dancing on the Sabbath, and especially<br />
since they'd be holding a Sunday school in the same building<br />
in just a few hours. These settlers weren't like those catfishers<br />
who danced at John Upthegrove's camp for two<br />
days and two nights without a stop for breath. With plenty<br />
of drinking liquor on hand, those catfishing boys and<br />
girls just didn't know when to quit.<br />
About the time that Belle Glade was beginning to be a<br />
town, there was a bunch of young bucks here who loved<br />
to stir up some kind of devilment. The main ones seemed<br />
to be "Slick" Kirchman, "Gator" Tillery, Paul Davidson,<br />
"Shorty" DeLaurie, all the Greer boys, and of course the<br />
town marshall (and later High Sheriff), John Kirk. Then<br />
from Chosen, roaring down that rocky road on their motor<br />
cycles, would come Hans and Fritz Stein and Dick Lefils.<br />
One of their games, whensomever some young buck<br />
would arrive in town, was to ask him if he wouldn't like<br />
to go to Mable's house. Now Mable, he'd be informed, lived<br />
just outside the settlement. If he'd slip out to her house<br />
some night, rap on the door and say, "My name's Joe",<br />
she'd likely let him in. Of course, since he couldn't find the<br />
house by himself, some of the gang would be good sports<br />
and pilot him out there.<br />
Now unbeknownst to this love sick swain, "Mable",<br />
suitably dressed in the clothes of Shorty's wife Frieda,