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28 SW TO 128 BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

36<br />

BELLE GLADE FROM SW AMP TO SUGAR BOWL<br />

Lauderdale, yet it wasn't very popular. The locks were six<br />

part part of of this this stream was was dredged out out some some five five years later later<br />

to to become a part a part of of the the Thirteen Mile Mile Canal which Disston<br />

had had intended to to continue on on to to Shark River. It It now now forms<br />

part part of of the the Miami canal. As As this this stream was was typical of of the the<br />

lake's dead dead rivers, including the the Democrat, let's let's see see what what<br />

it it was was like. like.<br />

miles from town, and since the water below was too shoal<br />

to navigate, all goods had to be transferred from the locks<br />

over a rutted sandy road through the piney woods to Deerfield.<br />

But good gosh, when you got there, except for the<br />

railroad, you still hadn't got nowhere! Yet by the spring<br />

of 1915 there already were some 72 starry-eyed enthusiasts<br />

"The "The river river at at its its mouth is is about 100 100 yards wide, wide, the the<br />

depth of of water being about eight eight feet. feet. To To say say that that our our<br />

little little party was was overjoyed would but but poorly express it. it. We We<br />

do do not not go go one one hundred yards before we we hear hear exclamations<br />

from from the the members of of the the party in in praise of of the the beautiful<br />

scenery which greets the the eye eye on on every side. There is is no no<br />

perceptible current so so far far as as we we can can discern. The The water is is<br />

clear clear as as crystal, the the banks fringed with with a a dense tropical<br />

growth of of trees, presenting to to the the view view a solid a solid green wall, wall,<br />

impenetrable to to the the eye. eye. This This wall wall is is formed by by vines,<br />

which have have twined around the the trunks and and branches of of the the<br />

trees, and and have have Caskets interlaced near the and and Belle wound Glade bridge. themselves around<br />

each each other until until they they form form a a screen which is is almost suf­<br />

sufficient<br />

to to shut shut out out the the light light of of day. day. Looking behind us us we we<br />

find find that During that we we this are are spring followed of by 1928 by innumerable the lake was alligators, at the lowest<br />

who<br />

who<br />

are ever are swimming till then recorded. lazily along Then in in our it our began wake. to rain. From all In all the sides sides month<br />

we<br />

we<br />

see of see them August them plunging alone, the in in the lake the rose water, three remain feet. under By mid-September<br />

seconds, it was rise rise a after heap after we too we have high have for passed safety. and and Then join join the came the crowd this be­<br />

hur­<br />

for a few<br />

for a few<br />

behinri,canehind<br />

us. us. We roaring We do do not across not go go two the two Caribbean. miles before It<br />

the walloped<br />

river the river Puerto<br />

begins<br />

to Rico,<br />

get to get killing<br />

and narrow, hundreds,<br />

we find and we find then ourselves it hit<br />

in West<br />

a little in a Palm little stream Beach<br />

only<br />

only<br />

and<br />

a Lake<br />

few a few Worth.<br />

in yards in Only width, one<br />

the the died sunlight there, but<br />

completely there<br />

shut was<br />

shut out a<br />

out right<br />

by by<br />

the smart<br />

the branches of property<br />

of of trees trees damage<br />

and and for<br />

vines, sure.<br />

which have have interlocked<br />

and and Nowadays twined around we each have each other radio until until and a a radar perfect and roof roof is hurricane is ed hunting ed ... ... After planes. going They half half can a mile, a track mile, we a we find storm find we we from are are no hour no longer to hour. in in<br />

form­<br />

a But a stream, then but the but only winding information around in was in dark, dark, from sluggish a weather water, station the the<br />

roots on roots Swan and and Island branches in the of of the Caribbean, the trees trees forming and from a a such barrier passenger to to our our<br />

ships further as progress already ... ... were As As we equipped we return we with we examine radio, more so more there closely<br />

was<br />

the little the vines chance which for grow grow warnings, so so luxuriantly, as you and and can find find see. that that Saturday's they they are are<br />

a paper a species had of of told gourd, us with with that innumerable a tropical hurricane gourds hanging was due from from<br />

to<br />

strike them, perfectly the south round, end of and and Florida. about the Radio the size size reports of of a a billiard next morning<br />

The said vines run that run all wasn't all over over the so. the Some trees, and cautious and on on the the souls ground gassed form form<br />

up<br />

ball. ball.<br />

The a their a mat mat two Model two or or T's three and feet headed feet deep."<br />

out. Others, remembering how<br />

camped at Glade Crest, the most I wouldn't doubt, who<br />

ever lived there at one time. But friend, they were having<br />

their troubles.<br />

Glade Crest was in the pure old peat of the sawgrass<br />

Everglades, new and raw. I know exactly what they had<br />

to contend with, for I was having the same problems at<br />

the very same time in Okeelanta. Water no longer covered<br />

the land, but it wasn't far below the surface, and clearing<br />

that sawgrass was a terrific task, for no machines which<br />

we had could do it.<br />

The land salesmen had told us all, "Just mow off the<br />

sawgrass, then plow the ground with a hand push plow."<br />

Mrs. Daniel has said that they even had told her. "A family<br />

of four could make a living on a single acre, since four<br />

crops could be grown each year". Oh yes, they even said,<br />

and backed it up with government reports, "Frost has<br />

never been known to damage the tenderest vegetation."<br />

And gee whiz, they even claimed there were no mosquitoes,<br />

either!<br />

That first winter, according to Herman Herndon, there<br />

were fifteen frosts and freezes from December till April<br />

5th. Farmers tried to protect their little crops by burning<br />

piles of sawgrass, but the heat mostly went straight up,<br />

so some plants were scorched while the majority simply<br />

froze. Anyway, by the second night, there were no more<br />

sawgrass piles. Then they tried covering the plants with<br />

muck. This worked fine once or twice and with small plants,<br />

but the covering and uncovering was near about as damaging<br />

as the frost.<br />

Since the first tractors couldn't clear the sawgrass, all<br />

this had to be done by hand. Sawgrass first was chopped<br />

GLADE CREST 37<br />

HURRICANE DEMOCRAT OF RIVER '28<br />

12929<br />

down with a machete, unless you were lucky enough to<br />

When I first I first came came to to this this lake lake these gourds still still were were<br />

plentiful in in the the custard apple forest, although they they then then<br />

were were less less luxuriant than than the the moon vine, vine, a kind a kind of of morning<br />

glory, which completely blanketed the the tops tops and and the the ex­<br />

exposed<br />

flanks of of the the custard apple woods, making a a shadowy<br />

dusk dusk at at mid mid day. day.<br />

get the cussed grass to burn. Then, with a heavy planter's<br />

hoe, the stubs and roots were grubbed up, and the tough,<br />

rope-like connecting runners were pulled up with a potato<br />

rake and tossed behind to dry. After the sawgrass had been<br />

grubbed up, then the soft ground could be plowed with a<br />

push plow. In a long, hard day (all our days were long<br />

and hard, so it seemed), one man could grub up a patch<br />

After cruising the the south shore for. for. nine nine days days the the party<br />

arrived, near near the the southernmost point on on the the lake, lake, at at the the<br />

largest and and longest of of all all these these rivers. This This they they ed ed T-D, T-D, or or Times-Democrat River. After traversing this this<br />

stream to to its its end, end, they they laid laid a a course south by by the the compass<br />

christen­<br />

for for Shark Avenue River, A after ninety the hurricane. miles Feuchtinger away by by air air building line. line. (left) Although<br />

water had had evidently opposite been been site five of five present feet feet City over over Hall. the the land land not not too too<br />

long well long they before, had they they survived found that that the it it now hurricane now was was a two a scant years five five before, inches,<br />

and did and nothing. under that that was was fifteen feet, feet, more more or or less, less, of of soft soft mud.<br />

So The So now now wind they they that are are Sunday compelled morning, to to battle brisk the the and sharp-edged<br />

cool, was<br />

from sawgrass, the north, which they as they it had had been believed the to day to be before. only only ten Relentlessly<br />

ten miles in in<br />

it extent, piled but but lake which water actually ever higher persisted into clear the to clear shallow the to the headwaters<br />

bay which<br />

of held of Shark the islands At River. of At Kreamer they times they and were were Torry, able able and to burn to the burn settlements the the saw­<br />

saw­<br />

of grass, Chosen, but but usually Belle Glade, the way the way South must must Bay be be and hacked Bean with with City. machetes.<br />

By mid<br />

For morning days For many low days angry they were they clouds were compelled hurried to southward, push and lift to push and dropping lift their their<br />

occasional boats every showers foot of the foot of of way, the rain. way, By often early making afternoon only a few only the a few winds hundred<br />

became dred yards stronger, in in a day. a day. and On On drenching November 17th, rain 17th, a squalls week a week after were after leav­<br />

more leav­<br />

huning<br />

frequent. ing the the lake, lake, Just a a before tall tall cypress the wires at at went Democrat down, River telephone was was still<br />

calls still<br />

came visible to to the all the lake naked towns, eye. eye.<br />

announcing that the edge of the<br />

hurricane had already reached the coast and was certain<br />

to hit Constantly the lake. they Our they were new were mayor, plagued Walter by by innumerable Greer, with several snakes,<br />

others, though drove fortunately, to Chosen nobody to was observe was bitten. the But lake. But they Returning, they were were<br />

soaking tortured by wet, by mosquitoes, they informed leeches the and crowd and poisonous assembled wampee<br />

in the<br />

drug plants store "which that produce lake water a a terrible was high, burning but they sensation. didn't Its<br />

believe<br />

appearance it would is is similar overflow to to the the water dike. lily, lily, Although the the leaf leaf not being advising from from<br />

Its<br />

six others, six to to twelve Greer announced inches across, that the the root intended root running to stay to to a here. a depth<br />

of of six six inches, and and resembles a a shallot in in appearance. We We<br />

And that was nearabout the only decision that he could<br />

had had the the curiosity to to taste taste it. it. We We shall shall do do so so no no more!"<br />

make, for shucks, by that time it was too blamed late to<br />

leave. Yes, Yes, Trying I I know to outrun blamed well the well storm they they in didn't! an open That That boat wampee<br />

would<br />

was be was inviting a a hellish disaster. plant, To nobody drive a would car away ever ever taste from taste it the it storm, twice!<br />

to Indian the south turnip or it's it's to the called west up up was north. impossible. It's It's tuber There looks looks were like like a<br />

no a<br />

of saw grass about fifty feet square. That's one-seventeenth<br />

of an acre. To get one acre ready for planting was about<br />

a month's job for one man. Yet that first winter that's<br />

36<br />

BEL<br />

Lauderdale, ye<br />

miles from tow<br />

to navigate, all<br />

over a rutted s<br />

field. But good<br />

railroad, you s<br />

of 1915 there a<br />

camped at Gla<br />

ever lived ther<br />

their troubles.<br />

Glade Cres<br />

how it all was done.<br />

'<br />

Everglades, ne<br />

Worst of all, we learned that on sawgrass land nothing to contend wit<br />

would grow but sawgrass ! The brown, fibrous peat had the very same<br />

to be stirred and aerated so it could decompose into black the land, but i<br />

muck. Plants would spring up, turn yellow and die. Yet that sawgrass<br />

where Irish potatoes had been sprayed with lime and copper<br />

sulphate to prevent blight, a second crop of potatoes,<br />

we had could d<br />

The land s<br />

or nearly anything else, would grow fairly well. So that's<br />

sawgrass, then<br />

how we learned that copper in this soil was essential and<br />

Mrs. Daniel h<br />

we had to use commercial fertilizer, too. The land companies<br />

had insisted that this would not be necessary, since<br />

ily of four cou<br />

crops could be<br />

analysis showed there was an excess of nitrogen. That<br />

and backed it<br />

sounded fine, but what they didn't know was that this<br />

never been kn<br />

nitrogen was in a form not available to plants. Oh boy,<br />

And gee whiz,<br />

there was a heap to learn!<br />

either!<br />

Yet in spite of all, there were some vegetables raised. That first<br />

'l'he Ft. Lauderdale Sentinel of June 19, 1914 states that were fifteen<br />

J. W. Bissell of Glade Crest had sold some Irish potatoes 5th. Farmers<br />

for $1 and $1.25 a hamper, and they had yielded at the piles of sawg<br />

r te of 150 bushels per acre. Now, to be sure, the paper so some plant<br />

didn't state how many hampers or how many acres Mr. froze. Anywa<br />

Bissell had, whether it was one acre or more or less. sawgrass It pile<br />

wouldn't surprise me if it was less. In Okeelanta the five muck. This wo<br />

of us, for our whole winter's labor, had succeeded in raising<br />

and selling only 40 hampers of potatoes, ten hampers aging as the f<br />

but the cover<br />

of beans and a few batches of carrots and turnips. Our Since the<br />

potatoes brought $1.50 and $1.75.<br />

this had to be<br />

'

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