Enjoy a ComplimentaryBottle of Wine- Choose from either -Maison l`Aiglon Chardonnay or Chemin de Marquiere MerlotTo redeem, simply present this advert when diningCôte Brasserie Lewes82 HIGH STREET, LEWES, BN7 1XW01273 311 344 | www.cote.co.uk/lewesValid until 31/03/20 at Côte Lewes only. One complimentary bottle of wine when 2 or more guests dine from our À LaCarte menu. Offer can only be used once and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or Set Menu.
FOOD REVIEWPestle & MortarMalaysian LaksaPhoto by Alex LeithSometimes, when youregularly go to a restaurant,you can’t look past acertain item on the menu,and for me, at the Thainoodle bar Pestle andMortar, that’s MalaysianLaksa.I go there every Tuesday,at around midday, to avoidthe lunchtime rush-hour. That means that whenI wake up on a Tuesday morning, it’s not longbefore I think ‘wahay, it’s Malaysian Laksa day!’I’m not exaggerating, it’s that good.My favourite item on the menu used to beanother item, which I’ve written about in thismagazine before: the Bánh Mì. This consistsof spicy pork in a baguette, a legacy from theFrench colonial occupation of Vietnam; I usedto eat it sitting in the All Saints graveyard, andenjoy every bite. But not anymore. Now I finda spot at a table in the colourful café, and supa bowlful of the rich broth that is MalaysianLaksa. I order it with extra prawns, which adds aquid to the (originally £7.95) price.It usually takes about five minutes to prepare, soI’ve taken to ordering a spring roll (£1) to tempermy hunger. Chopped vegetables and dark vermicelliin a crispy batter, served with a decoratedporcelain spoon, filled with sweet chilli. I’ve takento keeping hold of this spoon to eat my laksa,instead of the steel ones on offer on the table.The broth arrives, served in a big decoratedceramic bowl, and it’s quite a looker. The dishis dominated by coconut milk and colouredand flavoured with turmeric, and there are atleast ten ingredients semi-submerged within it.These include, in reverseorder of magnitude:coriander, crispy-friedshallots, spring onions,beansprouts, shiitakemushrooms, mangetout,pickled mustard rings,Chinese cabbage, kingprawns and hunks of tofu.It’s multi-textured, then,and it takes a while to eat, which is a positivething, because every mouthful is worth savouring.The broth itself is the star of the show, characterisedby a piquant chilli-hit with notes of galangeland lemon grass. I like fishing out the bits ofvegetable and protein with chopsticks, whichsabotages my tendency of hoovering my food upwithout properly appreciating it. I accompanythe broth with a glass of tap water, which acts as apalate cleanser, between umami hits.I’d like to be able to tell you about the othersoups and broths and curries available on thecrowded menu blackboard, but I’ve hardly evennoticed they’re on offer, and won’t until I’m overthis year’s lunch crush.I normally go back to work at this point, but Ed,the front-of-house fellow who runs the place withhis partner Honey (who heads the cooking team)offers me a cup of Vietnamese coffee. It’s black,as I don’t fancy condensed milk, in the Orientalfashion, and is accompanied by a slice of homemadepineapple and rambutan upside-down cake(£2.50). Rambutan, it turns out, is a lychee-likefruit, and tastes delicious within a delicate sponge.Tuesdays just got even better.Alex Leith4 Lansdown Place73