Style Magazine April 2020

Deer Park Creek /
Rocklin Quarry
4 LOCAL CRAGS
WE LOVE
1 // Auburn Quarry
Situated a short 40-minute
hike from Highway 49 and the
North Fork of the American
River, this is a great place for
a beginning lead climber to
practice their lead climbing
skills. There are plenty of
easy to moderate routes
with good protection. We
recommend starting out
on the first wall you see
on your left side as you
approach the crag, known
as “scale wall.” It can also be
accessed from the top to
easily set up a top rope.
Favorite climbs on the “scale
wall:” M+M (5.8), Scooby
Snacks (5.9), and Scale Wall
(5.10)
2 // Sugarloaf
Sitting just across Highway
50 in Kyburz, Sugarloaf
offers traditional and sport
climbing routes on smooth, 350-foot-tall
granite. Park on the south side of Highway
50 and start across the street toward the
phone company building. A steep approach
leads you to Sugarloaf, the most prominent
formation on the hillside. You can’t miss it.
3 // Deer Park Creek/Rocklin Quarry
With over 70 boulder problems ranging
TOP TIPS
1. Use your feet.
The key to becoming
good at climbing
is trusting your
feet and your legs
to push you up the wall, while only
using your arms to keep you on the
wall.
2. Straighten your arms. By keeping
your arms straight and relaxed when
possible, you’ll save much-needed
energy to get you to the top.
3. Keep your hips close. This will help
keep your center of gravity close to
the wall and, more importantly, over
your feet where you should have
most of your weight (see “Tip #1).
4. Climb smarter, not harder. Climbing
is as much a mental activity as it is
physical. If something is feeling really
hard, sit back for a few minutes and
think about the best way to climb up.
It’s more like solving a puzzle than it
is about brute strength.
from V easy to V10, Deer Park Creek
(or the Rocklin Quarry) is a great
option for a quick climbing escape.
Situated alongside Pacific Street,
accessing this old granite quarry is
as easy as it comes. Bring a “crash
pad,” some chalk, and high vibes for
an awesome outing on some short
but quality rocks.
Hop on “The Warm Up” (V0),
“Desperado” (V2), “Nemesis”(V3), and
“Thin Traverse” (V4) for an epic day.
4 // Lover’s Leap
“The leap” is one of the best trad
climbing areas in the state, and
by far the best local spot if you’re
looking for some real exposure.
With the cliffs rising
up to 600 feet, to
say that this is a
bold adventure
is understating it.
There are very few
“sport” routes, mostly
above 5.10+.
If you’re new to trad
climbing, start on
“Hog’s Back,” which
has routes from
5.5 for you to learn
to place gear and
become comfortable
with the systems. For
those who are already
comfortable leading
traditional routes,
some of the classics
are “Bear’s Reach” (5.7),
“Corrugation Corner”
(5.7), “Haystack” (5.8),
and “The Line” (5.9).
MUST-HAVE APP
Mountain Project, Climbers use this app to
share information on climbing areas and how to
access them, route information and grades, and
“beta,” or specific route information helping
climbers find key holds, protection points, and
anchors.
INDOOR
CLIMBING GYMS:
PREPARE FOR
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
The growth of indoor rock
climbing has quickly become
the fastest-growing market
in the fitness industry, and for
good reason. Climbing is an
incredibly complete training
incorporating strength,
flexibility, endurance, and
mental focus into a single
activity. For the first time
in history, a climbing film
won an Oscar for best
documentary (Free Solo) and
the sport is even making its
debut in this year’s Summer
Olympics. Indoor climbing
gyms are the best place to
learn important skills and
meet experienced climbers
before venturing outdoors.
What’s even better, they’re
accessible to the entire
family, even the little ones!
GET TO KNOW THE ROPES
(PUN INTENDED):
Granite Arch Climbing Center
11335 Folsom Boulevard,
Suite G
Rancho Cordova
916-852-7625
granitearch.com
The Boulder Field
8425 Belvedere Avenue,
Suite 100
Sacramento
916-329-8994
theboulderfield.com
Sacramento Pipeworks
Climbing and Fitness
116 N 16th Street
Sacramento
916-341-0100
touchstoneclimbing.com/
pipeworks
Blue Granite Climbing Gym
1259 Emerald Bay Road
South Lake Tahoe
530-600-2761
bluegraniteclimbing.com
APRIL 2020 | stylemg.com 47