FINE Wine & Champagne India - Winter 2018

WRITERS

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Volume 8 Issue 4 Q4 2018

Editor

Rajiv Singhal

Publisher

Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited

Chief Executive

Ritu Singhal

Wine Manager

Radhika Puar

Bordeaux Correspondent

Ch’ng Poh Tiong

Acknowledgements

Gyula Pethő and Annamária Somogyi

Art & Creative

Sandeep Kaul

Photographs

Shivam Bhati

Administration

Archana Burman

Cover Photograph

John Jennings on Unsplash

Editorial & Business Offices

6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001

E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in

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RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861

ISSN 2231-5098

Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India

Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi

110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra

Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any

retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior

written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees

presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the

opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their

utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its

absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or

other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any

modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India

magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

Rajiv Singhal

Rajiv Singhal is an entrepreneur who pioneered activities in the luxury sector in India. He studied

Economics at Yale, and since then has been simplifying access to the Indian market for international

clients. Among other path breaking initiatives, he helped set up the market for wine in India over the

last 20 years. Appointed Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Merite by the President of France in 2014,

Rajiv is the Ambassador of Champagne to India and loves to challenge himself.

Ritu Singhal

Ritu Singhal is co-founder of New Delhi based Group Ritu, which has diverse interests in private equity,

marketing, consulting and publishing. She trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay,

and experiments with new techniques on new media whenever she can. As voluntary work, she set up an

annual craft bazaar to empower women artisans. When not doting on her two teenaged boys, Ritu is up

for any gastronomic adventure.

Aishwarya Nair Mathew

Aishwarya Nair Mathew is Head – Corporate Food & Wine at Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts

founded by her grandfather. Having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York,

she is focussed on bringing a global offering of culinary arts to guests. She is intensely passionate about

fine wine and was felicitated with the Diplôme d’Honneur of the Corporation des Vignerons de

Champagne in 2008. Currently based in Singapore, Aishwarya is taking fashion to the next level with

her own label, Aligne.

Ch’ng Poh Tiong

Ch’ng Poh Tiong is a lawyer by training who has many decades of expertise as a consultant, judge,

writer and contributor in the wine space. Author of many books that have received international

acclaim, he specialises in Bordeaux. He studied Chinese Art at the School of Oriental & African

Studies in London and is an ambassador of the European Fine Art Foundation, Maastricht. Poh Tiong

plays the 7 string qin, the ancient Chinese instrument, and is happiest when he laughs together with

his daughter.

Stuart George

Stuart George is the founder of Vins Extraordinaires, through which he offers fine and rare wine

experiences and sales to private clients. He studied English and European literature at Warwick, holds

the WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits since 2000 and was the UK Young Wine Writer of the Year in

2003. Privileged to have tasted vintages back to 1780, he contributes to many wine publications and

judges wine competitions. Based in London, Stuart plays the guitar and follows cricket in his free time.

Mary Kae Irvin

Mary Kae Irvin is a wine educator, cheerleader, and Ambassador for Ste Michelle Wine Estates. She's

an accomplished actor and voice talent with a Master of Fine Arts in Theatre from the University of

Washington. When not evangelizing wines or treading the boards, Ms. Lindsey enjoys quality time

with friends, has never met a stranger, is a lifetime work-in-progress and committed to changing the

world for the better-one glass at a time.

8


Landmark Anniversary

We struck silver! Two thousand eighteen marked twenty-five glorious years of the

incorporation of our very first commercial enterprise in India. We very proudly

raised a very special toast to this notable landmark – Group Ritu @ 25. What made

the toast even more special is that the toast was raised at a Pinot Meunier bearing plot in the Vallée

de la Marne region of Champagne that manifests the story of a unique Indian intervention in the

year of the “legendary” harvest.

FINE Editorial

It has been a trail blazing, trend setting and path breaking journey of pioneering initiatives

throughout which we have underwritten risks to chart the unknown. Our commitment to deliver

excellence in the most challenging and constantly changing landscapes (read India) has stood

testimony to our passion, dedication and diligent hard work. The unstinted and unwavering

support of all our stake-holders has been the basis for this coveted milestone.

Through these years, we have been introduced to a cross-section of people – some academically

inclined, some worldly-wise, some masters of jugaad, some great fun, some flamboyant bon-vivants,

some hedonist sybarites, some grounded and down to earth, some bubbling with ideas, some high

achievers, some avoidable like the plague – and new relationships have been forged. Our very

successful sector-agnostic activities have been concentrated in areas that were hitherto ignored.

Early on, we struck off “impossible” as an option from the basket of choices available to us. The

rewards have been somewhat gratifying – time and again, we have been recognised as being “ahead

of the times”. Our give-back has been the encouragement

to new players to break into the “haloed” circles that we

have nurtured.

Notwithstanding the huge temptation to indulge in

self-congratulation, a landmark anniversary is an

opportunity to reflect. We have to remain motivated to

drive ourselves and to challenge ourselves to continue

to create value. We remain mindful that we cannot

afford to take our foot off the pedal. We may have come

a long way, but there is still a long way to go…

Rajiv Singhal


9

F I N E W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A

PAGE 10

FINE Event

PAGE 30

FINE Bordeaux

PAGE 44

FINE History

6


F I N E W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A

FINE Contents

PAGE 52 FINE Sport PAGE 66 FINE Lifestyle

9

FINEEDITORIAL

Landmark Anniversay

10

FINEEVENT

FINE India Seventh Anniversary

30

FINEBORDEAUX

Chateau Clerc Milon

44

FINEHISTORY

8 Wine Pool

PAGE 78

FINE TASTING

52

FINESPORT

The Perfect Start

66

FINELIFESTYLE

Corinthia - The Grand Budapest Hotel

78

FINETASTING

Experiences with Hungarian Wines

88

FINESPOTLIGHT

Budapest

96

FINEEXPERIENCE

Hungarian Table Choreographies

108

FINEIRVIN

Wine Casts a Movie

PAGE 96

FINE Experience

110

FINELUXURY

Luxury on the Bosphorus


7

The FINE Ambassadors' and

High Commissioners' Table

Seventh Anniversary Dinner

Text: RITU SINGHAL Photographs: HUNESH AJMANI

10 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Our

FINE Event

The twenty eighth day of April, two thousand eighteen. The elevator

doors of the majestic Leela Palace New Delhi don’t open on the 10th

floor to regular guests and patrons. Le Cirque is ‘closed’ for a private

dinner – a FINE occasion – something special enough to merit this..

It is the seventh anniversary of the FINE Wine &

Champagne India magazine, the first and (still) the only

officially registered wine magazine in India. It’s time for

FINE’s very unique and now much-awaited world wine

presentation – the FINE Ambassadors’ &

High Commissioners’ Table.

In this seventh edition,

the invited friends of

FINE will partake the

wines that have been so

painstakingly selected by

the 14 Heads of Mission

from the wine world, who have

extended their support this year. FINE truly appreciates that

Australia, Champagne, France and Portugal have had an

enviable perfect attendance record – seven on seven! They

are joined by Canada, Chile, Hungary, Japan, Mexico, New

Zealand, Serbia and the United States

of America. Great Britain and

Greece make their debut at

this FINE Table.

We depart from

tradition, we take a rain

check on the some very

kind offers to host the

FINE evening at an ‘Official


11

Residence’ of a Head of Mission. The European fine dining

best-in-its-class restaurant, Le Cirque, is a personal favourite.

A few iterative discussions with the General Manager, Louis

Sailer, and his team establish that the lovely wood panelled

main dining room can be re-arranged (and they are willing)

to accommodate our guests in a bespoke FINE formation.

The FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table has

a new address!

Le Cirque offers a spectacular panoramic view of the capital.

This evening, these views are accentuated by the unexpected

thunder and lightning playing in the dense cloud cover.

Showers cool the sizzling summer temperatures but are

thankfully brief enough not to disrupt the city and derail our

evening.

A visiting international celebrity chef in-residence has been

keeping the entire team at the Leela Palace quite occupied,

but they have ironed out our dinner very meticulously

and efficiently. Much like a jigsaw, various permutations

and combinations have been worked over weeks to get the

many pieces into shape, to reveal the FINE picture. And the

transformation of Le Cirque does look stunning.

All-clear from Atul, Sumit and Sahil in the dining room and

kitchen to Tanu, the Le Cirque hostess, who greets our FINE

guests at her tenth floor lobby welcome desk and hands them

their table card. The customary click is against a larger-thanlife

image of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine

cover that towers the photo wall in the majestic Boardroom.

The Reception room soon fills with a vibrant chatter. This

year, the “Reception” red stays with South America. In what

will be his last presentation to the FINE Table – it is revealed

that the “most beautiful couple” on the diplomatic circuit end

their posting in India – H.E. Andres Barbe, Ambassador of

Chile presents the easy drinking Tarapacá Cabernet Sauvignon

from the Central Valley in Chile and remains optimistic about

the reduction of duties in India. Giving Chile company is the

“Reception” rosé from old world Europe. H.E. Gyula Pethő,

Ambassador of Hungary has worked hard through the year

to move his position in the presentation order and is thrilled

that he keeps his vow from last year’s edition and makes a real

jump from the last wine presented to the first! The Hungarian

rosé wine is the very refreshingly cool and fruity Günzer Tamás

from the “Mediterranean” Villány in the southern part of

Hungary – near perfect for the summer day.

As Chief Executive of FINE, I welcome our guests and thank

all heads of missions for their continued participation. All

anniversaries are special, maybe this one a bit more. The world’s

leading fine wine magazines in Finland moved on, smitten by

digital, and in the last year we moved on to being independent,

convinced about the future of print for those who appreciate

12


FINE Event

only the FINEst in life. This year, the FINE Table covers the

largest number of wine regions ever from around the world –

14 – each carefully paired by the Leela Palace’s Executive Chef

Adrian.

The grand Le Cirque dining hall is ready to welcome us. Our

guests are guided to their pre-assigned seats at tables that take

their names from the Le Cirque restaurants locations around

the world – New York, Las Vegas, Dubai, Delhi, Mumbai and

Bengaluru.

We all sit down to the ‘novelty’ showcase and two glasses

bearing the flags of Greece and Great Britain, both of them

making their debut at the FINE Table. “I enjoy drinking

wine and am here as a humble

apprentice to learn. This is my first

initiation course”, H.E. Panos

Kalogeropoulos, Ambassador of

Greece, confesses as he presents

a 100% indigenous Greek grape

variety, ‘Malagousia’ that was

saved from extinction by Ktima

Gerovassiliou, the producer.

H.E. Sir Dominic Asquith

KCMG, British High

Commissioner, thinks that

‘novelty’ is very appropriate for the English wine that he

carried in – a good representation of what English wine is

turning out to be. A young varietal, Bacchus originated in

Germany sometime in between the world wars and settled

well in Kent where the temperatures were able to highlight

the acidity in this crisp, juicy, tropical wine – sophisticated

enough to be served at No. 10 Downing Street.

I am grateful for the generosity of the Ambassador of

Champagne to India, whose cellar I have raided for every

FINE Anniversary to bring a FINE wine for a FINE evening!

Raising a toast with the legendary bubbles from the Kingdom

of Champagne, Rajiv Singhal announces, “for the FINEst,

nothing but the FINEst will do”. The bubbles in our flutes

are from Maison Jacquart –

the flagship of the co-operative

Alliance, whose holding of

2,400Ha across over 60 crus

allows Floriane Eznack, their

Chef de Cave to create a

mosaic that lends the cuvée

its name – Brut Mosaique

which is served with a very

generous portion of the White

Asparagus Pannacotta with

Cucumber and Almond.


13

For our next course, Chef Adrian has proposed a Pea and Mint

Soup with Mascarpone Mousse, Buckwheat and Truffle which

might have ruffled some conservatives in the world of wine,

but not open minded and willing to experiment FINE guests.

H.E. Harinder Sidhu, Australian High Commissioner has

chosen a vibrant white – the O'Leary Walker Riesling Polish

Hill River Clare Valley 2016 – (instead of a bold red) to

move up the presentation order. “It’s a

certified organic wine since 2012 from

South Australia, Australia’s premier

wine growing region. The winemaker's

father, David O’Leary Sr., was Australia’s

Deputy High Commissioner to New

Delhi (1981-1983). A lovely connection

to India, to Ambassadors over the years,

and to the practice of Diplomacy. I just

had to present that here this evening”.

wine”. She describes the wine as a ‘sweetish’

and pleasant wine which carries itself well

and complements the Fresh Burrata with

Tomato Water Gel, Heritage Tomatoes,

and Air-dried Ham (without ham for the

vegetarians) as a perfect pairing for this

wine but reminds us that we have to have

this good wine with good conversation,

and very good friends! Alongside on this

flight, H.E. Vladimir Marić, Ambassador

of Serbia, is delighted to be back at the

FINE Table to present yet another wine

from Alexandrovic – the Varijanta 2014.

He skips the nose, palate, soil… and reiterates

that good wine (just like the one he

offered from Serbia) should be had with good

friends and good times.

Our FINE line-up of 14 did make Chef Adrian ponder. The

next flight is a white and a red from two regions – one in the

far far east in the Southern Hemisphere (New Zealand) and

the other in the far west in the Northern Hemisphere (USA)

– with the Pan-roasted Fillet of Red Snapper with Gnocchi,

Japan has brought a premium option

from Manns Wines, the Solaris

Koshu Old Vintage 2005. Madame

Patricia Hiramatsu is the spouse of

the Ambassador of Japan, whom “he

generally turns to when it comes to

14


Porcini and Artichokes (Artichoke

Ragout Stuffed Ravioli with Parmesan

Fondue and Artichoke Chips for the

vegetarians).

FINE Event

The New Zealand Trade Commissioner,

Jane Cunliffe, traces the success of the

Sauvignon Blanc grape in New Zealand

since it was planted first less than 50

years ago. Somewhat lesser known

than Marlborough, Martinborough

is where Palliser Estate is – just across

the hill from Wellington in the North

Island. H.E. Joanna Kempkers, the New

Zealand High Commissioner, describes

their 2017 Sauvignon Blanc as serious,

subtle and textural whilst still infusing vibrant tropical and

citrus fruit characteristics, on a brisk, racy palate.

Mary Kay Loss Carlson, Deputy Chief of Mission of the

American Embassy is presenting a very affordable and

accessible Pinot Noir – Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve

2013 – from California, which takes credit for 90% of the

fine wine produced in America. She describes the wine as a

complex blend of floral and earthy notes. Long legs, strong

and spicy.

It’s time for the mains – the Sous Vide Duck Breast with

Celeriac Choucroute, Foie Gras, Bulgar Wheat and Berries

(Quinoa and Caponata with Crisp Baby Vegetables and

Carrot Dressing for the vegetarians) – and with it, the

Encinillas Megacero Premium Blend 2015

from Mexico and the José Maria da Fonseca

Periquitta Azeitão 2015 from Portugal.

H.E. Melba Pria, Ambassador of Mexico,

teleports us to Chihuahua – where the

birthplace of the wine, La Hacienda de

Encinillas, is nestled by the Apaches and not

far from the tercentenary Camino Real de

Tierra Adentro, the historic trade tracks now

world heritage – and asks for our indulgence.

“Take your wine. Take a big sip. No, don’t

drink it! Roll your tongue on the upper palate.

Freeze just there. And start to breathe (if you

can)! Don’t drink it yet! Don’t drink it yet!

Let your tongue run dry. Now drink it. That’s

what the desert tastes like and that’s what


15

resulting wine is described as, “typically Canadian – it is

beautiful, it is seductive, it is exceptionally long...”

From the very quaint well designed and very well stocked

cellar in the French Residence, H.E. Alexandre Ziegler,

Ambassador of France, has chosen Château Coutet Premier

Cru Classé Sauternes-Barsac 1998, which is the oldest wine

this evening. But at the last minute, he has had to delegate

the task of presenting the wine to Françoise Moreau-

Lalanne, Agricultural Counsellor. A Bordelais, Françoise

shares France’s love-hate relation with its neighbour across

the channel. Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II in the

12th century and the region was forever in war since. But, as

English soldiers reached the Sauternes-Barsac region, they so

enjoyed the fresh sweet wine that they forgot about the war.

“The name of the Chateau translates to knife, but the wine

has the taste of peace”!

Mexico is.” Applause, H.E. Melba has just been nominated an

Honorary Member of the Institute of Master of Wine!

Charge de Mission of the Embassy of Portugal, Sofia Batalha,

presents a wine made by a family business that is one of the

oldest Portuguese wine producers and this wine is from the

not-so-well-known Setubal Peninsula. The eight months in

oak lend a dark ruby colour to the indigenous blend. Fruity,

well balanced acidity with soft tannins.

A sensational evening of FINE celebration that has extended

well past midnight. FINE has been blessed by each of the

presenting Heads of Mission and all guests clamour for an

encore – indeed, till the next FINE event.

The Le Cirque Classic Crème Brulée with Orange Biscotti

is offered with a choice – the traditional Sauternes or the

modern Canadian Ice Wine. Chateau des Charmes Vidal

Ice Wine Niagara-on-the-Lake 2015 is presented by Jennifer

Graham, spouse of the Canadian High Commissioner, and

Robert McCubbing, Senior Trade Commissioner. German

immigrants brought this 18th century tradition over in

the 20th century. The Vintners Quality Alliance of Canada

ensures the very high standards – vines are registered, grapes

must remain free of fungus, 35 brics and over sweetness,

freezing grapes must be picked off the vine… – and the

16


FINE Event


17

The Fine Ambassadors

and High Commissioners

FINE Event

The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners

Rajiv Singhal (Champagne) & Ritu Singhal (Fine)

Hungary Gyula Pethő & Annamari Somogyi

Japan Kenji Hiramatsu & Patricia Hiramatsu

18


FINE Event

UK Sir Dominic Asquith & Louise Asquith

New Zealand Joanna Kempkers & Dr Tim Markwell

Mexico Melba Pria

Canada Jennifer Graham

Portugal Sofia Batalha


23

Greece Panos Kalogeropoulos

Serbia Vladimir Maric & Jovanna Maric

Chile Andres Barbe & Lorena Escobar

USA MaryKay L Carlson & Aubrey Carlson

26


FINE Event

Australia Harinder Sidhu

Australia Dr Mark Morley

Canada Soyoung Park

France Françoise Moreau-Lalanne

Canada Robert McCubbing

New Zealand Jane Cunliffe


27

Fine India Seventh Anniversary

Günzer Tamás Villány Rosé 2014

Region: Villány, Hungary.

Varietal: Furmint.

Appearance: Salmon pink with onion

skin tints and ever so slight

bubbles.

Nose: Rose, cherries, red currants

with hint of pink peppercorn.

Palate: Dry juicy palate of red berries

and plums with refreshing

acidity.

Finish: Fresh and fruity wine.

Balanced acidity with

minerality.

Inside Information: The wines from the region

of Villany in the southern part of Hungary are

built on strong foundations with a respect for

tradition – the first protection of origin system in

Hungary was developed here and the treasures

on the Villány-Siklós wine route are central to

wine tourism. Wine of Villany are recognised

by the Crocus trademark – Crocus is a plant

unique to the region, found on the south

slopes of Szársomlyó Hill. Only wines that meet

the strict criteria to be classified as “Villány

Classicus” or “Villány Premium” can bear this

coveted mark.

In a nutshell: Graceful and Summery.

Tarapacá Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Region: Central Valley, Chile.

Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon and

Syrah.

Appearance: Deep ruby with purple tints,

bright and opaque.

Nose: Oaky aromas reveal ink and

red fruits with hint of bell

pepper.

Palate: Jammy blackcurrants and

some mint.

Finish: Medium bodied with rounded

tannins. Easy to drink.

Inside Information: Tarapacá wines are

‘born in a unique place’. The company was

founded in 1874 by Don Francisco de Rojas

y Salamanca, a winemaker, at the foothills

of the Andes range in the heart of the

Maipo Valley. This traditional and historical

winery crafts elegant wines with cutting-edge

technology that preserve the high seal of

quality and set the benchmark for viticulture.

A part of the Winebow Group, it was awarded

Green Company of the Year recognising

the sustainable actions across all aspects:

economic, social and environmental.

In a nutshell: A typical classic.

Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia 2017

Region: Epanomi-Thessaloniki,

Greece.

Varietal: Malagousia.

Appearance: Bright straw with greenish

hues.

Nose: Intense with matured fruit –

quince, pear, grapefruit and

mango.

Palate: Prominent flavours of lemon

peel and tropical fruit.

Finish: Crisp mouthfeel and rich

citrusy aftertaste.

Inside Information: “Malagousia” is a 100%

indigenous Greek grape variety, that was

saved from extinction in the seventies. Vangelis

Gerovassiliou is known to be the person

who planted the long-forgotten grape in an

experimental vineyard as an oenologist. He had

studied at Aristotle University of Thessaloniki's

School of Agriculture and specialised in

Oenology and Viticulture at the University of

Bordeaux in France. Buoyed by the success of his

vinifications, he later introduced this indigenous

grape to his own estate Ktima Gerovassiliou in

Epanomi that he founded in 1981.

In a nutshell: Seductive survivor.

Chapel Down Bacchus 2016

Region: Tenterden, Kent, Great

Britain.

Varietal: Bacchus.

Appearance: Pale gold.

Nose: Aromas of freshly cut

grass, elderflower, mango,

pineapple and granny smith

apples.

Palate: Citrusy, zesty and refreshing

flavours of gooseberry.

Finish: Juicy. Well balanced.

Inside Information: Named after the Roman

God of Agriculture, Wine and Fertility, the

‘Bacchus’ grape originated in Germany in the

1930s as a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner,

and Müller-Thurgau. The grape settled well

in the cool maritime climate of Kent where

the temperatures were able to highlight the

acidity best. Innovative ways of thinking and

the evolving and dynamic approach to grape

growing keeps Chapel Down ahead of the

rapidly expanding game in the British wine

industry. “Our aim is always to surprise and

delight our customers”.

In a nutshell: Sophisticated novelty.

28


Tasting Notes

FINE Event

Jacquart Brut Mosaique

Region: Reims, Champagne, France.

Varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot

Meunier.

Appearance: Pale gold with flashes of jade.

Delicate and fine bubbles.

Nose: Rich stonefruit aromas. Hints

of honey and brioche.

Palate: Fresh and Full. Honeysuckle

and spices with a touch of

nuts.

Finish: Fruity, rounded, long. Creamy

evolution. Lingering.

Inside Information: Maison Jacquart is a

dynamic 50 something year old amongst history

steeped peers in the region. The flagship of

the cooperative, Alliance, that owns around

2,400 hectares across about 60 crus, which is

a significant individual holding in this delimited

region. The young and innovative Chef de Cave,

Floriane Eznack, joined the house in 2011. She

manipulates the resources at her command in

the new facilities on Boulevard Lundy to create

an impression of a mosaic. This lends the cuvée

its name – Brut Mosaique.

In a nutshell: Generously in harmony.

O'Leary Walker Riesling 2016

Region: Polish Hill River, Clare Valley,

South Australia, Australia.

Varietal: Riesling.

Appearance: Pale straw with subtle green

hues.

Nose: Classic petroleum. Perfumed

“bath salts” and musk sticks.

Palate: Clean. Fruit forward with fine

minerality.

Finish: Dry. Vibrant and wellintegrated.

Inside Information: Since the vineyard was

planted in the 1970s, the grapes were grown

organically even though the certification of

Australia’s Organic could only be secured in

2012. The winemakers have a strong diplomat

connect and one with India. The father of one

of the winemakers, David O’Leary, was a very

prominent and senior Australian diplomat who

had many ambassadorial positions before he

retired in the 1990s. Between 1981-1983, he

was Australia’s Deputy High Commissioner to

New Delhi. The great Australian wine industry

is a melting pot of many cultures, and many,

many different backgrounds.

In a nutshell: A diplomat’s treat.

Manns Wines Solaris Koshu

Old Vintage 2005

Region: Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan.

Varietal: Koshu.

Appearance: Bright yellow with silver tints.

Nose: Complex aromas that range

from dried apricots to prunes.

Low alcohol.

Palate: Lively, velvety and pleasant.

Very ripe pears and nuts.

Finish: Multi-dimensional balance

between sweetness and

acidity with a nice aftertaste

and lingering finish.

Inside Information: Owned by Kikkoman,

the very famous makers of soy sauces, Manns

Wines Katsunuma Winery is one of the largest

in the Yamanashi Prefecture, the region that has

the longest history and tradition of making wine

in Japan. This Solaris Old Vintage wine is made

in years of good harvest. It is matured in glasslined

stainless-steel tanks that allow it to attain

a maturity as it ages for over 10 years during

which the fermentation is suspended by intense

refrigeration.

In a nutshell: Has a presence of its own.

Alexandrovic Varijanta 2014

Region: Oplenecko, Šumadija, Serbia.

Varietal: Muscat Hamburg.

Appearance: Very light brick red.

Nose: Powerful aromas of roses and

strawberries with a hint of

forest floor and spices.

Palate: Very fruity. Red berries leaping

out of the glass. Refreshing.

Finish: Mild structured with a long

aromatic finish.

Inside Information: Family Aleksandrović has

been one of the founders of Vinča Winegrowers

Cooperative back in 1903. Trijumf was one

the most sought after wines in European royal

courts before World War II. In 1991, Živan

Tadić, a famous royal cellarmaster who had

migrated to Canada following the World

Wars, learnt about the attempts of the family

Aleksandrović to revive Serbian winemaking

traditions and shared some original recipes.

This marked a new chapter in Trijumf’s long

history – which today have a place of pride at

La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux.

In a nutshell: Handiwork of handwork and

hardwork.


29

Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Region: Martinborough, New

Zealand.


Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc.

Appearance: Pale lemon yellow with green

tints.

Nose: Charming aromas of tropical

fruit and white stonefruit with

a hint of smoke.

Palate: Lush, brisk, racy. Grassy and

herbaceous, fleshy citrus with

a hint of pineapple.

Finish: Engaging and textured. Fresh

with nice minerality and

crunch.

Inside Information: Sauvignon Blanc has been

the staple of New Zealand’s wine industry in

the last four or so decades. Martinborough

is area where stones and sheep co-existed,

and Palliser are perhaps the mavericks who

gambled on turning farmland into vineyards

– a seemingly mad idea that turned out to be

ground-breaking. A small team, inspired by

Captain Cook and dead-set on following his

lead, is delivering on the promise of standing

on the edge of the world and then going that

little bit further in the search of that ‘something

great waiting’.

In a nutshell: Lazy afternoon cooler.

José Maria da Fonseca Periquita 2015

Region: Azeitão, Setúbal Peninsula,

Portugal.

Varietal: Castelão, Touriga Nacional,

Touriga Francesa.

Appearance: Ruby red with dark hues.

Nose: Voluptuous aromas of

blackberries, blackcurrants

and plums with hints of

vanilla, cassis and black

pepper.

Palate: Fruit heavy with touches of

dark cocoa. Dense. Balanced

acidity

Finish: Soft supple tannins. Persistent

finish. Strong character.

Inside Information: José da Maria da Fonseca

is a pioneer in much of what is done in

Portuguese oenology, a job that starts in the

vineyard under the guidance of Domingos

Soares Franco – the first Portuguese winemaker

to graduate from University of Davis in

California. They first created this wine, that

became so well known that it acquired a

regional notoriety. Periquita was registered as

a trademark in 1941 and remains the oldest

registered brand of Portuguese ‘table’ wines and

represents a blend between the true and original

Periquita tradition and the long term vision.

In a nutshell: Traditional view on the future.

Kendall Jackson Pinot Noir 2013

Vintner’s Reserve

Region: Monterey & Santa Barbara,

California, USA.

Varietal: Pinot Noir.

Appearance: Dark Garnet with red tinges.

Nose: Complex blend of floral and

earthy notes. Blackberry and

raspberry with strong whiff

of vanilla.

Palate: Lush dark cherries infused

with cola and spicy accents.

Finish: Soft rounded tannins. Toasty.

Smooth. Supple. Direct.

Inside Information: For over three decades,

Kendall-Jackson has remained committed to

crafting the finest quality wines from grapes

grown in California’s cool coastal vineyards.

Parcels are vinified separately so that Randy

Ullom, Winemaster and the KJ winemakers

have the ability to craft a wine that exhibits the

perfect blend of regional flavours and aromas.

Each lot is hand-crafted to create wines that

have earned a reputation around the world for

consistently exhibiting intense layers of flavour

with complexity and balance.

In a nutshell: Pure Coastal Expression.

Encinillas Megacero Premium Blend

2015

Region: Chihuahua, Mexico.

Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

and Shiraz.

Appearance: Deep dark cherry with brick

red hues.

Nose: Intense. Complex. Aromas

of blackberry, with floral and

spicy notes.

Palate: Full bodied. Mouthy.

Opulent. Velvety tannins. Well

integrated.

Finish: Long permanence and

pleasant aftertaste.

Inside Information: Encinillas wines are

punished by the cold, heat and desert winds

and are products of imagination, tenacity

and talent. They surprise oenophiles and

professionals around the world with delightful

wines that share a legacy and recreate history.

At an altitude of 1560 meters, the clay-gravel

soil and favourable climatic conditions allows

a unique quality of grape that lend themselves

to exceptional wines of great distinction.

Committed to respect nature, the vineyard

management is based on organic and

sustainable agronomic practices.

In a nutshell: A taste of the desert.

Chateau des Charmes Vidal Ice Wine

2015

Region: Niagara-on-the-lake,

Ontario, Canada.

Varietal: Vidal.

Appearance: Bright shimmering gold.

Nose: Manifestation of honey,

apricot and flower gardens in

full bloom.

Palate: A rich mouth-coating feel.

Layered texture. Apricots and

mangoes spring out.

Finish: Straight forward. Charming

balance. Citrus finish.

Inside Information: “Making wine is not what

we do, it’s who we are” – the Bosc family

traces its roots back to a winegrowing tradition

seven generations ago in Alsace France, in

Algeria, as “pied noirs” in France, and finally

in Niagara, Canada where in 1978 Chateau

de Charmes was founded. In partnership with

a lawyer, Canada’s first commercial vineyard

dedicated exclusively to European vitis vinifera

varietals was planted – the success of which was

considered impossible in Canada’s climate.

Nay-sayers were proved wrong. The fledgling

wine industry was revolutionised. Native

varietals were banned from wine under the

Wine Content Act of 1988.

In a nutshell: The perfect substitute for

dessert.

FINE Event

Chateau Coutet Premier Cru Classe

Sauternes 1998

Region: Sauternes Barsac, Bordeaux,

France.

Varietal: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc,

Muscadelle.

Appearance: Deep gold with antique tints.

Nose: Subtle mix of candied

orange, apricot liqueur,

gingerbread and a touch of

saffron.

Palate: Fleshy. Caramel and honey

with light minerality.

Finish: Syrupy. Mastering perfectly

the balance between the

fullness and the freshness

of a vintage full of flavours.

Strong personality. Fine.

Inside Information: Weather conditions were

warm and dry in the first three months of the

year and budding happened earlier than

usual. Exceptional weather in June restored

the vegetation cycle and flowering took place

early in the month. A heat wave in August

and the very ripe berries showed substantial

potential. Botrytis cinereal developed well in

the first fortnight of September. The early and

even spread of the Noble Rot made it possible

to produce very high quality musts with great

potential for aromas and flavours.

In a nutshell: The wine of peace –

disarming and old.

Inputs for tasting notes by Radhika Puar


31


Photo: M. Anglada - Saison d'Or

FINE Bordeaux

RENAISSANCE &

A NEW APPROACH

TEXT: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

Chateau Clerc Milon came to be as a result of the French Revolution (1789

- 1799). Originally part of the seigneury of Lafite, it was parcelled out

of that huge estate and sold off as a 'national asset' in 1789. The buyer was

the Clerc family who join their name with that of the hamlet of Milon to usher

in the birth of Chateau Clerc Milon.


31

Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

Text: Stuart George

32


FINE Bordeaux


33

The quality and reputation of the

wine grew with the passing vintages

and in 1855, Clerc Milon was ranked

a Fifth Growth in the Classification

of the Médoc. At that time, the size

of the vineyard was 30 hectares.

Then, phylloxera struck in the second

half of the 19th century and, in its

wake, decimated the vineyards

of France and those of the rest of

Europe. Recovery was tedious and

drawn out. Then, of course, came

World War I (1914 - 1918), the Great

Depression (1929 - 1939), and World

War II (1939 - 1945).

The modern renaissance of Chateau

Clerc Milion took place in our

lifetime. In 1970, convinced of the

wine's potential, Baron Philippe de

Rothschild bought what was by then

a pretty run down estate. At the time

of the purchase, Clerc Milon was

just 16.5 hectares, having shrunk by

almost half of its original size. The

baron knew potential when he saw

it. Clerk Milon, apart from being a

neighbour of Mouton, is practically

across the road from Lafite. On

the same side, farther up the road

is Saint-Estephe's Chateau Cos

d'Estournel.

In 1983, Clerc Milon was given a new

label which depicts a pair of dancers.

The motif is an art piece made from

precious stones by a 17th century

German goldsmith. This striking

new label is taken directly from an

intricate work of art that belongs

to Chateau Mouton Rothschild's

Museum of Wine in Art.

What Baron Philippe de Rothschild

started when he acquired Clerc

Milon, his daughter Philippine de

Rothschild completed in a series of

added investment to the physical

form of the estate. In 1988, on

the passing of Baron Philippe,

the consolidation of the vineyard

was already well under way and

the reputation of Clerc Milon on

a steady rise. On the other hand,

the technical facilities were limited

to a rudimentary vat house and

the cellars located some distance

away in the town of Pauillac. As for

the 'chateau', it was really no more

than a small village house. Baroness

Philippine de Rothschild set out

to complete what her father had

inspired when he first bought Clerc

Milon.

A vat room, gravity-fed, was

introduced in 2007. This had been

designed to accommodate the

patchwork of parcels in the vineyard

and to be as flexible as possible

when the manual harvest is brought

in. After further hand-sorting, the

grapes are transferred to the vats in

mobile bins. There are a total of 40

vats, all gravity fed in order to reduce

the need for handling and pumping

Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix



FINE Bordeaux


35


The proprietors of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Clerc Milon.

From left, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild

and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild.

which, in turn, makes it easier to

keep the grapes intact, thereby

retaining all their aroma and

flavour. The technical winemaking

concerns addressed, the next

stage was no less important.

In 2008, the Rothschild proprietor

family separated the winemaking

at Chateau Mouton-Rothschild,

Clerc Milon and Chateau

d'Armailhac. Prior to that, there

was one over-seeing director of

winemaking for all three properties,

and also one person overall in

charge of viticulture for those three

chateaux.

'Previously, the organisation

was horizontal,' explains Jean-

Emmanuel Danjoy, who had joined

as winemaker at Clerc Milon after

having spent 10 years at Opus One

in Napa Valley.

'The new idea was for each

chateau to be independent. And,

although part of the old team

continued to be here, my first

vintage with the new team was

2009. '

As a result of the change, Erick

Tourbier became in charge of

winemaking at Mouton; Jean-Paul

Polaert at Chateau d'Armailhac;

and Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy

at Clerc Milon. The person who

oversees all three properties is

Philippe Dhalluin, who joined in

2003 following the retirement of

Patrick Leon.

'The family realised that if they

want to have the best from the

estates, then each estate must

become entirely focussed on just its

own terrior. It's not just winemaking

that is involved because we work

in the vineyard too. Clerc Milon

alone has 247 blocks of vines.

The majority of the soil is gravel,

limestone, and with some clay.

Clerc Milon attains freshness

easily from those soils which is a

challenge because if we don't have

enough ripeness, the freshness

becomes acidity. There must be

commensurate ripeness to harness

that freshness,' elaborates Danjoy.

The consequence of the new

approach is that the new team and

regime at Clerc Milon now gets a

better picture of their terroir and

all the varietals in their vineyard.

The Pauillac Classified Growth is

36


quite special in that it is planted to the

five varieties of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon,

31% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2%

Petit-Verdot, and 1% Carmenere. Planting

density is between 8,500 and 10,000 vines

per hectare. Chateau Clerc Milon has 41

hectares of vines in the north-east of the

Pauillac appellation, on the Mousset crest

overlooking the Gironde. The gentle slope

favours natural drainage and exposure to

sunlight, while the nearby river creates a

microclimate that protects the vines from

frost in spring, reduces the risk of hail,

and brings a nippy coolness in summer.

The soil is made up of two-thirds deep

sandy gravel over a clay-limestone base.

The average age of the vines is almost 55

years, one of the highest in the Médoc.

The strive for a deeper understanding

of the vineyard has given Danjoy and his

team a clearer, crisper, more resonant

picture. It's as if they have become more

bonded with their charge.

'Our understanding of our terroir has

gone from 5,000 to 5 million pixels,' Jean-

Emmanuel Danjoy sums up.

In 2011, Chateau Clerc Milon unveiled a

striking 3,600-square metre complex

comprising a half-underground barrel

hall, a cellar, and reception and tasting

rooms. Power is provided by 300 sq m

of photovoltaic cells on the roof, such is

the concern for the environment. As for

the chateau, that's a rectangular building

in the form of a temple, encircled by a

spacious terrace giving an uninterrupted

view onto the vines and the surrounding

estates. A Pauillac classified growth was

reborn. >


FINE Bordeaux

‘The majority of the soil is gravel, limestone, and with

some clay. Clerc Milon attains freshness easily from

those soils which is a challenge because if we don’t have

enough ripeness, the freshness becomes acidity,’ Jean-

Emmanuel Danjoy spent 10 years at Opus One in Napa

before being lured back to Bordeaux.


37


38


FINE Bordeaux


39

Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

TASTING NOTES

I asked my host for me to approach the 10 wines in three flights. From experience,

you get much more from each wine this way as we are better able to focus on

three or four wines at any one time than have your mind range back and forth

10 of them. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy then asked in what order I wanted to taste

the wines. I asked to be guided by him. The tasting notes are in the sequence in

which Danjoy arranged the vintages in the tasting on Monday 8 January 2018.


Flight I

2007

This was the first vintage to be vinified

in the new cuverie. The aromatics are

delicate and include a whiff of mint,

soft sandalwood, a dab of tobacco,

and light blackcurrant fruit. Mediumplus-ish

in body, the wine shows an

early maturity. Now to 2025.

2008

More closed on the nose than 2007.

And equally tight on the palate. The

structure is in front of the fruit at the

moment. Blue/black fruit is detected.

This needs to be re-tasted in the

future when the wine will become

more expressive. No rating given.

2009

Immediate sensation of generous

fruit: blackcurrant and cassis. The

succulence is matched by ripe, rich

tannins. Still very youthful. The firm

finish is wrapped in freshness. This

buoyancy is quite remarkable given

that 2009 was a heat-ravaged

vintage. Then again, this is the

northern Médoc where Pauillac

borders St-Estephe. And, as

Danjoy alluded to in the first part

of this article, freshness is a forte

of Clerc Milon. (Chateau Clerc Milon

is located practically opposite of

Lafite-Rothschild and, just farther

up the road on the same side is St-

Estephe's Chateau Cos d'Estournel).

2010

A much more complete wine

than 2009. The intensity and

concentration of fruit - including

cherries - is cocooned in an atom of

vivacity. Bright, lifted, and with great

length. The tannins are very polished.

Incredible balance and energy.

Flight II

2011 -

Delicately smoky and vanilla on the

nose. Peppery/capsicum/blue fruit.

Fresh, fine tannins. Elegant. Mediumplus

bodied. Danjoy informs that

spring was warm and dry and the

vines struggled for water. The small

berries had thick skin and the wine

has more tannins and minerality but

is less aromatic.

2012

Considerably more aromatic than

2011. Delicious, vivacious red and

blue fruit. Lots of freshness. Texturally

not as silky as 2011 but the fruit has

more vitality. There's just a touch of

sappiness on the finish. Mediumplus

body. Danjoy informs that 2012

is the total opposite of 2011. 'Spring

was very wet and the vine grew a

lot. There is a lot less tannins which

is why it is so much more aromatic.'

2013

The red fruit, although light, is very

elegant. So too the tannins. Lovely

balance. Feminine. Danjoy informs

that some of the fruit 'was not in

good shape in 2013'. As a result,

the maceration was shorter. So too

the extraction which was also more

gentle.

Flight III

2014

Floral and whiff of violets (for

Danjoy, it's irises). Ripe red fruit and

blueberries. Silky tannins. Marvellous

texture. Very polished and classy.

Clerc Milon 2014 is truly impressive

and over delivers for the vintage

which is already regarded as a good

to very good year. Danjoy informs that

the end of August was completely

overcast and that there were small

showers. The temperatures were

not very high. The general opinion,

at the time, was that the vintage

would not be very good. Nature

then sprung a surprise. The gift was

a belated but much appreciated

long and dry Indian summer. The

harvest started on September 22nd

on a few young plots of Merlot and

only finished on October 17th for

the Carmenere. Reflecting on the

10 years he had spent in California,

Danjoy remembered that the 2014

Médoc harvest was 'like in Napa

where you could wait and not worry

about rain and come back anytime

to harvest the grapes in optimum

ripeness'.

2015

The 2015 was somewhat closed up

when I visited on January 8th. But

not entirely. The undoubted quality

of this stunning vintage simply would

be denied. On the nose and palate,

there's just richer, riper blue fruit,

and riper, richer tannins. The wine

has more density, concentration,

and power. What makes all that so

impressive is the unyielding freshness

that accompanies the bounty of fruit

and tannins.

2016

Nature smiled on Bordeaux in

2015 and 2016 and delivered two

magnificent wines. The fruit of 2016

is considerably more exuberant,

forward, and upfront. I remember,

in April 2017, tasting La Fleur

Petrus in the Pomerol chateau with

Christian Moueix, how I described it

to the proprietor as 'the Beaujolais

Nouveau vintage of Bordeaux', so

juicy was the fruit at that youthful

curve of the wine. Since then, 2016

has closed up considerably. Still,

there's the whiff of violets. Tight but

very rich fruit and tannins.The texture

is very impressive.

FINE Bordeaux


41

FLAVOURS

WITH FLAIR

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O22–our all-day-dining restaurant, presents world cuisine

ranging from of Mediterranean, Western, Indian and Asian

fare featuring an interactive sushi bar, the freshest seafood

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The Sunday Brunch here is an opulent affair created by our

master chefs offering a limitless selection of inspired global

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O22 also houses a Bar Lounge that serves

classic and signature cocktails and a twostorey

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The Sunday Brunch

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The Trident Patisserie & Delicatessen offers a selection

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8

Wine

Pool

Text: Stuart George


FINE History

It was a year that might turn even the most devout teetotaller to drink –

unless their name is Trump.


45

In 2017, we witnessed the inauguration of a Twitter-obsessed

reality TV star as US President (whose grandfather came from

the Pfalz wine region in Germany); the ongoing tragicomedy of

North Korea; shocking events in Manchester and Las Vegas; a

never-ending war in Syria; and the devastating consequences

of Hurricane Harvey and the Mexican earthquake. Compared

to these events, fermented grape juice becomes even more

insignificant.

Nonetheless, let’s try and look to 2018 with optimism and

savour the chance to enjoy some great wines with friends and

family. Vintages that end in “8” can be auspicious.

Ten years on, the 2008 Bordeaux vintage is not seen as great

but those who know what they’re doing made some good and

well-priced wines. The modest Château d’Angludet excelled in

2008 because the Sichel team, fearing the inability to ripen the

grapes so late in the season, thinned the crop twice, so that in

the end they brought in only 30 hl/ha but it was of outstanding

quality.

Rhône 2008 was tricky, with 300mm of rain – the amount

that would normally fall in six months – poured on the hill

of Hermitage in just 24 hours on 3rd-4th September. No

Hermitage La Chapelle was made this year, so if you see one

please run a mile and report it to Wine Searcher. The Chinese

milk scandal of 2008, in which milk and infant formulas were

adulterated with melamine, which can cause kidney failure, is

a reminder that wine fakes and forgeries are not just a financial

hazard but also potentially a health hazard.

Burgundy 2008 was mixed. In the Loire, yields were reduced

by spring frosts in the west and by hail in the east. Champagne

was good, if not quite as good as 2002. Barolo and Tuscany

produced wines that were built to last. It was not a widely

declared Port year, with many producers offering Single

Quinta rather than Vintage Port, but Noval released a Vintage.

California was more than ok and Australia's fine wine regions

– Coonawarra, Margaret River, and Swan Valley in particular

– did well. There’s plenty of choice for a tenth anniversary.

France won the football – that’s soccer to US readers – World

Cup in 1998, which might be an excuse for the Bordelais to

open some bottles of the magnificent Right Bank ’98s. At a

Cheval Blanc vertical tasting and seminar held by the Institute

of Masters of Wine in 2006, the 1998 was by general consensus

the wine of the day, superior to 1989, 1990, and perhaps even

1982.

It was also a fine year in Alsace, the southern Rhône, and

Champagne. Red and white Burgundy were as good as each

other. The reds were tough and charmless when young but age

has smoothed the abrasiveness.


In the Barossa, Torbreck RunRig 1998 was a superb example

of old vine Barossa Shiraz. At a stated 14.5% alcohol, it could

be enjoyed without fear of a headache in the morning, unlike

some subsequent vintages (like 2006 and 2007) of RunRig that

went to 15%+, with the prospect of high Parker scores perhaps

as much a cause of this as warm vintages.

FINE History

For 21st celebrations, Italy enjoyed a wonderful vintage almost

everywhere in 1997. It was a good vintage in the Rhône, too.

Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle 1997 was included in a

vertical tasting by a London auctioneer in May 2005 and it was

excellent, albeit atypically fruity and “sweet”.

Bordeaux ’97 was a notoriously expensive vintage when

released en primeur. The wines were charming but nowhere

near the level of the ’96s. However, some ’97s have persisted

and flourished – for example, Château Lynch-Moussas 1997,

which I tasted repeatedly in December 2016.

It was a white Burgundy vintage of plump, rich wines but

the dreaded “premox” – premature oxidation with a variety

of possible causes (higher-yielding Chardonnay vine clones,

vinification techniques, lower sulphur dioxide [SO2] levels,

faulty corks… Who knows?) – makes sourcing (and serving)

these wines a risk.

Extremely rich wines for extremely rich people were made in

Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and the Rhône in 1988.

An old tasting note by me on Vieux Château Certan ’88

reads, “Very elegant and balanced, with the exception of the

exuberant tannins, which seem rather out of place here. Lacks

the finesse of the 1998 and 2000.”

Forty year olds can enjoy great wines from Burgundy and the

Rhône in 1978 – DRC and Hermitage La Chapelle if you can

afford them. It was also a great year for Barolo and California.

Bordeaux had a challenging year, saved by a lingering summer.

Château Margaux 1978 – the first wine of the Mentzelopoulos

era – has always enjoyed a high reputation. When last

encountered it was a style of wine that would be perceived

by many nowadays as unacceptably lean and tannic. Indeed,

Margaux 1989 was harvested almost a month later than this.

Other ’78s noted on my travels include a fading Château

Pichon-Longueville-Baron and a pleasantly fruity Château

Léoville-Poyferré.

Argentina won the football World Cup in 1978 but there are

not many Argentinean wines of that age still available. They’ve

probably been drunk by Argentineans to commemorate their

first World Cup win.

Fifty year olds can compare how they’ve aged with great wines

from California and Tokaj. Old Rioja can be of exceptional


47

48


quality and value. A 1968 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva was

cedary and just starting to dry out on the finish but still a good,

mature wine a few years ago.

There’s not much to say about 1958, though it was a good year

for Barolo. Madeira of any vintage is usually a decent drink.

Cossart Bual 1958 is not a bad example of rustic, warming

Madeira in my experience.

FINE History

If you’re celebrating a 70th in 2018 then you’re in luck.

Although overshadowed by the awesome reputation of the ’47s,

1948 produced some magnificent wines in Bordeaux. Vieux

Château Certan 1948 was tasted – or rather, drunk – twice in

a short period over ten years ago. I noted it as “a monster of a

wine” because of its relentless tannins, which I suspect will keep

it going ad nauseam. It was also a great year for Vintage Port.

We will have to skip 1938, which was a poor year, but 1928

was one of those vintages when most, if not all, of the classic

regions made wonderful wines, though they are now likely to be

past their sell-by date. When last seen, Vieux Château Certan

1928 was just about hanging on in there. A better experience

was had with a deeply-coloured and still tannic 1928 CVNE

Imperial Gran Reserva. Ancient Rioja can be irresistible.

Centenarians can enjoy great Vintage Ports from 1908,

especially Cockburn’s, which was the preeminent Port producer

in the first half of the twentieth century before a long decline

that was arrested only when Symington Family Estates acquired

it from Beam Global Spirits & Wine in 2010.

The nineteenth century had several great “8” years (gr8s?). The

last pre-Phylloxera vintage was in 1878, which was also a seminal

year for literature: Thomas Hardy’s The Return of the Native,

Henry James’s Daisy Miller, and Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina

were published this year. Of course you’ve read them all.

There is a delicious reference to Chablis and oysters in chapter

ten of the first book of Anna Karenina. Levin, Oblonsky, and

Stepan Arkadyevitch are dining together:

“What shall we drink?”

“What you like, only not too much. Champagne,” said Levin.

“What! To start with? You’re right though, I dare say. Do you

like the white seal?”

“Cachet blanc,” prompted the Tatar.

“Very well, then, give us that brand with the oysters, and then

we’ll see.”

“Yes, sir. And what table wine?”

“You can give us Nuits. Oh no, better the classic Chablis.”

“Yes, sir. And your cheese, your Excellency?”

“Oh, yes, Parmesan. Or would you like another?”

“No, it’s all the same to me,” said Levin, unable to suppress a

smile.


49

Interesting to note that oysters and Chablis was already

“classic” by 1878. Chablis, oysters, and Parmesan sounds like

a decent meal to me. White Nuits-St-Georges is produced but

it’s a tiny amount of the total percentage of Nuits wine – only

about 40,000 bottles per year – and unlikely to have been

found in nineteenth century Russian restaurants. Gouges and

Chevillon make prime examples of white Nuits. But red Nuits

with oysters…?

The 1850s were a difficult period for winemakers because of

mediocre vintages and the threat of oidium (powdery mildew),

a fungus that attacks the green parts of the vine. But by 1858 an

antidote had been found: Sulphur. “Natural wine” enthusiasts

can therefore enjoy pre-1858 wines with a clear conscience.

In his Notes on a Cellar-Book (published in 1920), George

Saintsbury describes “the great (Bordeaux) ’58s” as “very dear,

not very plentiful, and getting a trifle old”. A bit like wine

writers, really.

With oidium cured, it was the start of a prosperous period in

Bordeaux and there was a lot of money floating around, with

châteaux bought and sold for extraordinary sums. It could be

similar in 2018.

The 1868 vintage at Lafite is less notable for the wine – which

was the highest-priced claret until the 20th century – than for

the purchase of the château by German-born James Mayer de

Rothschild, Baron de Rothschild, for the then colossal price of

4 million francs, equivalent to over $2,000,000 today, or about

600 bottles of 1982 Lafite. Henceforth it was Lafite Rothschild.

Not many vintages combine quality and quantity but 1848 did.

Château Margaux, for example, produced 12,000 cases of great

wine, which is about the same as the typical annual production

nowadays of the château’s Grand Vin, with at least as much

again of Pavillon Rouge.

The year of revolutions saw the publication of William

Makepeace Thackeray’s The Book of Snobs, which has many

references to wine, including a description of a “wine party”:

“Thirty lads round a table covered with bad sweetmeats,

drinking bad wines, telling bad stories, singing bad songs over

and over again.”

A hundred and seventy years later, snobs and lads drinking

bad wines, telling bad stories, and singing bad songs can still

be witnessed at over-hyped auctions in New York and Hong

Kong. >


Photo: Singhal 2018

52


FINE Sport

The

Perfect

Start

to…

Text: Rajiv Singhal

...the Championships Wimbledon

2018 upon the grounds of the All England Lawn Tennis

Club. This year is the 132nd – making it the oldest

and arguably the most prestigious Grand Slam tennis

tournament. This year celebrates the 150th anniversary

of the Club that was better known in the day for

croquet mallets than tennis racquets.


53

Traditions take centre-stage

at Wimbledon – lawn tennis

should be played on grass; it still

references Ladies and Gentlemen;

the all-white dress code is strictly

enforced; strawberries and cream

are gluttoned; the Royal Box is

for the monarch, nobility and

celebrities; the shade of Green

hasn’t changed and Centre Court

isn’t drowned in the clutter of ad

banners.

The Grounds in London’s SW19

neighbourhood are revered for

the soles that have tread on them

– the legendary champions who

have inscribed their names on the

prized trophies year after year –

hundreds of thousands of tennis

lovers and pros, first timers and

regulars, young and old, students

and professionals, commoners

and royals alike turn the stiles to

pay obeisance at Wimbledon with

an electric exuberance!

Played over two weeks in July,

674 matches are scheduled in 13

days to cover 16 events. In the

unfortunate event of washed

out days during the first week of

the tournament, in exceptional

years, ‘People’s Sunday’ is rolled

out with unreserved seating and

inexpensive access – last in 2004.

It’s Day 9 – the Gentlemen’s

Singles Quarter-Finals – the

formidable trio of Roger Federer,


Rafael Nadal and Novak

Djokovic will step out to

progress their bids to add a

14th Wimbledon title to their

names and claim this year’s

purse of £2.25 million.

FINE Sport

Photo: AELTC David Levenson

Our ‘prized’ Centre Court

tickets won’t let us see the

icon we have come all the way

to see – top seed Federer has

not been assigned to Centre

Court. Thankfully, a ‘swap’ is

organised and we get our space

under the Court No. 1 sun!

In a clinical display of what

has become his trademark,

Federer extends his record 32

set winning streak and swiftly

races to a match-winning lead

of two sets to love. The lanky

South African, Kevin Anderson,

serves to save match point in the

10th game of the third set. A very

casual backhand lobbed return

from the eight-time champion

drops wide of the base (and side)

lines! This is the turning point of

the match – enough to prompt

an end to my pilgrimage – I don’t

want to warrant eviction for

jeering and can’t bear to watch

further. The challenger fights

back and takes the game in a

five-setter. Game, set, match… Mr.

Anderson!

Inspired by Emperor Napoléon

Bonaparte, in ‘my’ defeat, I need

Champagne!

Lanson, the Reims-based

champagne house which has

been around for a little over 250

years, have been selected by the

All-England Club as the “Official

Champagne at Wimbledon” since

2001. At the very stylish Lanson

Marquee in the VIP Village, I

pick a smartly jacketed piccolo

(with a straw – paper not plastic)

over a flute of the Lanson Black

Label – truly refreshing and

delicious enough to overpower

my horrifying experience.

Photo: Singhal 2018

Photo: Singhal 2018


55

Photo: Ben Fisher/Lanson 2018


“Champagne Lanson embodies

excellence, innovation and

celebrates achievements. It is an

honour that our relationship has

been extended for another five

years – till 2023. Such relationships

set Lanson apart from the other

Champagne houses”, announces

Paul Beavis, the Managing Director

of Lanson UK & Export.

Continuity is the big mantra

at the All England Club for

Wimbledon, whose unique image

and character is maintained

through long-term commitments

and the decision not to

commercialise overtly.

Slazenger is “the ball that has

seen it all” – the Official Ball since

1902 – the longest partnership in

the history of sport. “A real taste of

Wimbledon”, Robinsons created

the recipe for Lemon Barley Water

to quench players’ thirst and is the

Official Still Soft Drink since 1935.

“When your traditions are known

to all, you’ve made history”, Rolex

has been the Official Timekeeper

since 1978. IBM is “making the

unmissable, unmissable” as the

Official Supplier of Information

Technology since 1990. “Since

1977, the perfect start to The

Championships, Wimbledon”,

Lanson is the Official Champagne


FINE Sport



57

Photo: Singhal 2018

since 2001 building on a

relationship since the centenary

year 1977. Ralph Lauren kit all oncourt

officials and the ball boys

and girls in navy and cream outfits

as the Official Outfitter since

2006…

In the hospitality district,

guests from around the globe are

taken through a guided tasting

experience of the Lanson labels

– from the Brut Black Label to

the Rose Label to the White Label

Sec (to meet the dress code on

the grounds) to the Green Label

Organic (that commemorates the

150th Anniversary of the Club

on its special label) to the Cuvée

Extra Age. Anton Hobbs, Export

Director, explains “Our unique

style of Champagne is liked

and enjoyed by customers. The

neoprene bottle cooler

jackets that are

fun, collectible

and cherished

were hugely

popular and have

been repeated on

demand.”

After a delectable

Champagne Lanson

Photo: AELTC


afternoon tea with the White

till the very end – Game, Set,

Till next summer, when the doors

Label, I head to Centre Court for

the Rafael Nadal – Juan Martin

Del Potro power slugfest armed

with Lanson piccolos to quench

my thirst and shades to cover

the scorching summer sun. I

didn’t anticipate that this would

be another five-setter of epic

proportions (had to go back for

my piccolos) – it hung in balance

Match… Mr. Nadal was the final

call by the chair umpire – sets him

up for the semi-finals against Mr.

Djokovic.

A very eventful day with its

own highs and lows, but thankful

for the calming influence of

delicate bubbles rising in glasses

marked with the Maltese Cross!

open again – for more Lanson,

more strawberries and cream

and more action-packed tennis

– the quintessential Wimbledon

experience! >

FINE Sport

Photo: Singhal 2018


59

H E D O N I S M W I N E S

The finest wine shop

H I D E

NEW 1 Michelin star restaurant

Corinthia - The Gra

Photographs: Corinthia Hotel Budapest


nd Budapest Hotel

FINE Lifestyle

A muse inspires your imagination towards creativity

and should make you think or want to act. A muse

could be a person, a movie, a book or a hotel…


67

Wes Anderson bagged several Oscars

for “The Grand Budapest Hotel” in 2015.

Even though he didn’t shoot the movie onlocation

and carried the disclaimer that his

movie was a purely fictional representation

with no connection to the city or hotel, the

similarities to the ‘muse’ (Corinthia Hotel

Budapest formerly known as the Grand Hotel

Royal) are uncanny – aspects of history, the

architecture and façade of the hotel and even

the requests managed by H. Gustave! It seems

that Wes’ stay and back-of-the-house tour of

his ‘muse’ in 2012 definitely played its part.

Built to celebrate the millennium during

the reign of King Franz Joseph, the Grand

Hotel Royal opened its doors to guests on

30th April 1896 and soon found favour with

the social elite to establish itself as one of the

most renowned and modern hotels of its time

in Europe – featuring en-suite bathrooms and

electricity-operated lifts.

The hotel had a glorious run till World

War II, in which it headquartered the Germans

and was partly damaged. Offices of various

departments of the Hungarian government

occupied what was left of the building till

the fifties, when someone in the government

realised the worth and a restoration program

was launched. But, in the turmoil during the

Hungarian revolution, it became another HQ

– this time for the Revolutionaries. The hotel

was re-opened (a pale shadow of its former

self) under the state-owned Hungar Hotels

on the 20th August 1961 only to shut down

in the nineties.

A new life was leased in 2003 by the

Corinthia Group founded in Malta in 1962 by

Alfred Pisani and his family with “not a lot of

money but unbending perseverance and the

vision to build a great hotel company”. Family

values, authenticity, fussing over individual

detail, passion and understanding, discrete

vs ostentatious define the Spirit of Corinthia.

The Pisanis embarked on a very ambitious

project to restore the past glory and original

splendour by retaining the best of the old,

while sensitively adding the new, respecting

the local architecture and cultural traditions

and eliminating the scars of the war-torn

decades. The doors of the newly christened


FINE Lifestyle


69


Corinthia Hotel Budapest were re-opened

yet again, this time to the new generation

traveller.

The hotel captures the spirit of the

historic city that straddles the River Danube

and where World Heritage sites and classical

architecture, dating back to the Habsburg

Empire, are the backdrop to a very modern

city with beautiful parks, designer shops, a

vibrant art scene, fine restaurants, pulsating

nightlife and thermal spas. And even though

it is not on the famed Danube waterfront, the

Corinthia is one of the grandest hotels in the

heart of the Hungarian capital.

We were appointed to meet Tibor Meskál

for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the property.

Tibor, who joined the hotel as a young

apprentice in June 1961, remains the oldest

serving employee and is a treasure chest of

stories and insights – he knows the hotel like

nobody else. “This hotel has had lives of a cat!

I have spent a total of 21 years in these walls.

It has been fascinating, interesting, exciting

and stimulating. I am the only one who has

seen the two re-openings – I am not aiming

for the third!”

Tibor explained how a historic building

has been painstakingly restored to roll out a

modern hotel with 21st century luxury. The

building was redesigned and built to fit into

the original frame that had survived the wars.

The French Renaissance style façade with its

statues of the four seasons (guardian spirits)

from the 19th century, that binds together

the three parts of the building, was left intact

as was the six-storey glass panelled atrium.

Chairman Pisani directed that the central

staircase be blended into the lobby.

A commemorative plaque of the Grand

Hotel Royal is hung on an original wall in

the arrival area to remind everyone of the

property’s glorious heritage. The flowing “R”

logo from the time has been retained and is

found scattered all over the hotel, including

on the coffee!

The property has 414 keys with an

additional block of 26 permanent tenancy

apartments with independent access but also

FINE Lifestyle


71

connected to the main building by a glass

bridge. With two official entrances, the hotel

is the only one of its kind in Budapest. At

the main entrance on Erzsébet körút, liveried

doormen usher guests, bellhops swiftly take

charge of luggage and valets manage the cars

as they roll in (380 cars and even 3 double

decker coaches can be parked in this citycentre

garage). The entrance at the back of

the building is for large groups and VVIPs,

where the check-in army discreetly go about

their duties – almost whispering and tiptoeing.

On a wall in this arrivals area are

two shields, ‘Our Most Frequently Returning

Guests’ and ‘Our Special Guests’. “Guests

stay with us because of our location and

our exemplary service. The Franz Liszt

Presidential Suite is Hungary’s largest at

240 sq.m.”, Tibor proudly announces.

The walls of the magnificent Grand

Ballroom “survived the wars, the revolution,

everything…” and are now adorned by

portraits of statesmen, politicians, composers,

artists and poets. The gilded scrolls of

Hungarian artists elevate its beauty. The

restorers chiselled out the designs and

polished up the brass. The original wooden

parquet flooring gave way to Italian limestone

and Spanish marble. The solid wood staircase

to access the Royal Balcony offers a glimpse

of a bygone age.

Around the time of the First World War,

nobody was hosting lavish dinners, fashion

parades, or weddings. As a special effort

to bring in revenue, the Lumière Brothers

from Paris, the pioneers of cinematography,

were called in to setup Europe’s first cinema

– Royal Apollo (renamed Red Star Movie

during the communist era) – outside London

and Paris in Budapest seating 1,000 people.

The chandeliers in the Ballroom were kept

very high to allow projection on the screen

and a clear sighting from the Royal Balcony.

A special hydro-electric system allowed the

splendid chandeliers to come down from

the ceiling (and stop 20 cms from the floor)

to allow for cleaning, maintenance and

replacements without ladders and vertigo.

The Ballroom can serve 240 in a sit-down

synchronised silver service by white gloved


FINE Lifestyle


73


FINE Lifestyle

waiters where all dishes are placed at the same

time – buffet layouts can accommodate more!

1000 coats can be hung in the cloakroom.

At the grand launch of the hotel in 1896,

the eight-course inaugural dinner that was

served to the city’s high heeled at the ‘Royal

Palm Court’ set the tone for the history of

gastronomy that the Royal became famous

for. Renowned restaurateur, Károly Gundel,

took the reputation well beyond Hungary’s

borders after the second World War. Tibor

recalled that people came to the Royal to

get what they couldn’t find elsewhere – the

American-style hamburgers and milkshakes

served in the sixties saw “line-ups that

stretched around the block”.

Fine dining has always been the first

passion of the Pisani family. The dining

options at all Corinthia hotels are many and

of the highest calibre. They offer fine cuisine

(with a focus on regional), inspiring wines and

classic to contemporary cocktails – Budapest

boasts a 6 in 1 “Gastro Complex” that caters

to a very diverse palate and re-establishes its

credentials as a culinary destination in its

own right.

Family-friendly Sunday brunches at

the Brasserie and Atrium restaurants are

popular with the city locals. The pan-Asian

Rickshaw brings together the many exotic

flavours of the far east. Besides acclaimed

cocktails, Le Bar serves special topping juicy

burgers and sumptuous dessert. The ‘farmto-table’

concept is embraced at the hotel and

ingredients are sourced at an Artisan Market

from local family-owned businesses with a

focus on organic.

Other dining options (not managed by

the hotel) are the Michelin recognized Bock

Bistro – Lajos Bíró’s version of Hungarian

classics in a contemporary bistro culture –

well stocked with wines of Hungarian legend,

József Bock. Caviar & Bull, the brainchild

of celebrity chef Marvin Gauci, re-inforces

the Maltese connection at the Corinthia. The

Orfeum Club evokes the cabaret glamour of

Hapsburg-era Budapest.

In keeping with its grand appeal, the

accommodation for the discerning traveller

is opulent and spacious. Stylish furnishings

meet intelligent design. An inspiration of the

branching of the River Danube at Margaret

Island adorns each room. The Mahogany-


75

decorated guestrooms have views of the

city’s stately boulevards or the impressive

atrium. The in-room entertainment systems

are state-of-the-art Bose and for those who

may have the time, a host of channels to

swap between. The doors are from the Czech

Republic and open up into beautiful spaces

furnished with Slovakian furniture and South

African carpets. This international selection

is framed in the expertise of Hungarian

craftsmen.

The Executive Club is a space which offers

business centre facilities and a boardroom, a

comprehensive library and the international

newspapers, a television room and a selection

of drinks (including some carefully chosen

local Hungarian wines), snacks and canapés

served throughout the day. Access to this

special area lent a feeling of space and was

very welcome.

The Royal Spa was conceived by the

architect Vilmos Freund in 1888 with steam

baths, wave and shower baths, electric baths, a

pneumatic chamber and a medical room with

cold water – all with thermal water. The hotel

got built to the spa and not the other way

round. History records the spa as operational

till 1944, when it became necessary to control

all the thermal water running on the main

streets in this part of the city because there

was a scare that this district will collapse.

The abandoned, obsolete spa survived a bid

to be converted into a parking lot and was

refurbished to blend tradition with modernity

– the 15 metre indoor pool is a highlight.

It seems that we had engaged well with

Tibor – he used a secret code to access

the kitchen. We got the mandatory white

coat and protectors. Well laid out and well

organised, the place is buzzing with activity

– breakfast had just ended and lunch was

being prepared. Tibor ended the tour, told us

that he shared with us more than he did with

other guests and hoped that we would carry

good memories.

Lovingly restored to its original glory,

Corinthia Hotel Budapest was brought to

life, like a phoenix rising from the ashes.

The Corinthia mission of ‘Craftsmanship of

Care’ is an aim to create made-to-measure

experiences to make guests feel special from

the moment they arrive. >


FINE Lifestyle


77

78


Experiences

with

Hungarian Wines

FINE Tasting

It is believed that the traditions

of wine-making in Hungary

predate the Roman influence.

The Hungarian word for wine ‘Bor’

does not derive from the Latin word

‘vino’ – and this makes this wine

country unique in all of Europe.

Straddled between the 46°N

and 49°N latitudes (the location

benchmark that is France) in a

land-locked country, the vines

were introduced to the fertile lands

made up mostly of volcanic soils

on the banks of the Danube. A

continental climate creates ideal

conditions for Hungarian wines to

be crafted.

The rise in the prominence of

Hungarian wines around Europe

was led by the to-die-for iconic

dessert wines from Tokaji – a region

where the world’s first vineyard

classification in the 18th century

was based on the soil, exposure to

sun, incline of the slope incline and

propensity to ‘noble rot’. Favourites

with almost all the Royal Courts of

Europe, the wines of Tokaji were

famously christened by the Sun

King Louis XIV of France “Vinum

Regum, Rex Vinorum” – the Wine of

Kings, and the King of Wines.

A ministerial decree defines the 22

wine regions in Hungary – each

having a very distinct microclimate

that produces specific styles

and tastes. The rich and diverse

native varietals originating in

Hungary such as Ezerjó, Furmint,

Hárslevelű, Juhfark, Kéknyelű,

Kadarka, Kékfrankos have

dominated in the post-phylloxera

plantings and have created a

following around the world for their

unique characteristics.

Modern wine-making is Hungary

was revived in the nineties by a

group of visionary private winery

owners who invested in modern

techniques to successfully

rehabilitate the international

reputation that had been severely

damaged by the “quantity – not

quality” mantra of communist-era

collectivisation.

The range of Hungarian wines –

from light and fresh and fruity to

robust and spicy and full bodied

to the varying degrees of sweetness

and balance – are so diverse that

those adventurous enough to dip

into the Pandora’s Box will find one

to suit their taste.

FINE presents a collection of

tasting notes from our experiences

with Hungarian wines. It was the

generosity of the Ambassador

of Hungary in India, H.E. Gyula

Pethő, that whet our appetite. And

our maiden trip to Budapest found

us being treated to gems from the

Treasure Chest!


79

rand Tokaj

Takler

Chateau Vincent Tokaj Furmint

Brut

Tasted April 2017

At Vino India Tasting, New Delhi.

Region Tokaj.

Varietal Furmint.

Appearance Pale lemon. A lovely rising

mousse.

Nose Apricots and passion fruit.

Subtle yeast.

Palate Ripe citrus fruits, honeydew

melon, pineapple and

cinnamon. Toasty.

Finish Balanced acidity. Minerally

finish.

Dosage 9 gm/l

Alcohol 12%

Verdict Fresh, with a linear domination

of fruit.

Inside Information: In 1996, Vencel Garamvári

realised a dream to make his first sparkling

wines taking the traditional French School as the

basis but clearly with the domestic consumer

as his prime target. Pre-disgorgement ageing

between 24-36 months in the bottle. The family

still manages the enterprise, which embodies the

professional experience of nearly four decades of

the founder and strives to meet his expectations

of creating value.

róf Buttler

Dúzsi Tamás Kekfrankos Rose

Szekszard 2016

Tasted June 2018

At Sky Lounge at Corinthia,

Budapest.

Region Szekszard.

Varietal 100% Kekfrankos.

Appearance A subtle salmon hue.

Nose Light. Citrusy.

Palate Crisp, fruity and juicy.

Grapefruit, strawberries and

a hint of mango. Refreshing

zestiness.

Finish Dry. Vibrant acidity.

Alcohol 13.5%

Verdict Classic. Pleasing aperitif.

Inside Information: Tamás Dúzsi is the king of

rosés in Hungary – they’re always some of the

most refreshing rosés around. His rosés are much

awarded – have won every major international

rosé contest. Aged in cool stainless steel tanks

and bottled in the Spring.

Torley Hungaria Extra Dry

Tasted June 2018

At Brasserie & Atrium at

Corinthia, Budapest.

Region Etyek-Buda.

Appearance Very sparkly. Pale yellow.

Nose Buttery. Ripe fruits and

walnuts.

Palate Green apples. Rounded acidity.

Finish Fruity. Fun.

Dosage 5.4 g/l

Alcohol 11.5%

Verdict Bubbles for fun.

Inside Information: The Torley Group is the

oldest sparkling wine producer in Hungary with

an experience of around 130 years. Since 1955,

Hungaria is a part of Torley. Only special and

unique technologies are used, majority of the

range are made in the Méthode Transvasée – a

very laborious method which is highly successful,

since this procedure ensures that the sparkling

wine contained in each and every bottle is of

the same quality. That makes it possible for the

consumer to enjoy the same refreshing sparkling

wine experience every time – to foster the claim

“indulge in the moment and reveal the evening’s

true character”.

Bock Olaszrizling Villany 2017

Tasted June 2018

At Bock Bisztro, Budapest.

Region Siklós Városi-hegy in Villany.

Varietal 100% Olaszrizling.

Appearance Bright and clear yellow.

Nose Charming. Predominantly

almonds.

Palate Fresh. Crisp celery.

Finish Neutral.

Alcohol 12.56%

Verdict Dry, easy drinking.

Inside Information: An indigenous varietal that

accounts for around 60% of the white grapes in

the country. Drawn from 36 year old vines grown

on limestone and mixed loess soil. Controlled vat

fermentation and reductive maturation. Made

under the Protected Designation of Origin.

ockSt. Andrea


ovacs Nimrod

Bodvin Aldomas Furmint Tokaj

2012

Tasted April 2017


Region Tokaj.

Varietal Furmint.

Appearance Golden.

Nose Varied. Whiff of vanilla, roasted

nuts. Strong leather (like in a

shoe store).

Palate Caramelised and woody.

Finish Balanced acidity with a

minerally finish.

Alcohol 14.5%

Verdict Heady.

Inside Information: A family business since

2000, Bodvin was founded in 1992 as a joint

venture with the Americans. A very modern winery

in the region. 10 hectares are farmed in Mád. 7

hectares are owned by Gábor Orosz. It is difficult

to separate Gábor from his winery – wine is his

hobby – he works to collect rich experiences and

shares his knowledge with peers.

Tamás Günzer

Dubicz 1014 Chardonnay Matrai

2016

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Mátra.

Varietal 100% Chardonnay.

Appearance Clear, light lemon yellow with

hints of green.

Nose Buttery. Pineapple and

gooseberries. Richly seasoned

vanilla.

Palate Citrusy. Oaky. Sweet orange,

pear, summer apple.

Finish Light and dry with good acidity.

Alcohol 13.5%

Verdict An alternative Chardonnay.

Inside Information: The labels are very unique.

They translate the natural phenomena of this

wine region into an abstract set of symbols. Each

wine has its own symbol depicting a characteristic

natural treasure reduced to a geometric form,

which then fades away vertically, much like the

slopes of the Kékes mountain range.

Dubicz

Carpinus Hárslevelű Tokaji 2015

Tasted January 2019

At Hungarian Ambassador’s

Residence, New Delhi.

Region Tokaji.

Varietal 75% Furmint, 25% Hárslevelű.

Appearance Light yellow.

Nose Pure. Complex. Floral, lime

peel, honey and hint of

elderflower.

Palate Flavourful. Structured. Peach

and ripe tropical fruit.

Finish Silky and lingering.

Alcohol 13%

Verdict Summery.

Inside Information: Edit and István Bai embrace

local values established by the wine families

as they aim to make Carpinus a leading winery

in the region that is “run sustainably without

compromise” – and preserve the natural

assets of the region. The Gyertyános vineyard

is the largest planted in 1985 with East-South

East exposure on particularly varied clay soils.

Sauska

Carpinus single vineyard wines express the

individual attributes of the vineyards.

Dubicz Sauvignon Blanc Matrai

2017

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Mátra.

Varietal 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Appearance Pale grassy yellow.

Nose Very aromatic. Wild grass,

floral and ripe fruit notes.

Palate Distinctive. Gooseberries and

bodza (elderberry) with a hint

of pear. Slightly gassy.

Finish Well balanced with medium

body. Long lasting.

Alcohol 12.5%

Verdict A very aromatic charmer.

Inside Information: A history of over 100 years,

Dubicz focus mainly on white wines from their

123 hectares of own vineyard. Mátra region is up

in the hills. Balancing the great conditions with

tradition and latest technology, Dubicz makes

quality wines that are everyday – fresh, aromatic

and fruity with excellent value for money.

FINE Tasting


81

moky

Gunzer Tamas Mont Blanc Villany

2017

Tasted June 2018

At Lounge at Ferenc Liszt

International Airport, Budapest.

Region Villany.

Varietal Ottonel Muscat, Olasrizling,

Chardonnay.

Appearance Pale green.

Nose A bit short. Reminds of

petunias.

Palate Crisp. Green apple with mild

carbonation.

Finish Rounded but bitter finish.

Alcohol 12%

Verdict Youthful.

Inside Information: Inspired by his parents and

grandparents, Gunzer Tamas was fascinated by

vines and wines. He received a 0.3 hectare plot

(with a cellar) as a graduation gift from his father,

to whom he remains grateful. The holding has

now been upped to 45 hectares. European funds

allowed investment in production facilities for

330,000 bottles. The next generation, Roland,

is already the head of wine-making and strives

to produce youthful wines in which he can show

himself.

risp

Szent Tamás Mád Hárslevelű Tokaj

2015

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Mád in Tokaji.

Varietal 100% Hárslevelű.

Appearance Lustrous pale yellow.

Nose Delicate. Lush apricots with

hints of petroleum.

Palate Ripe and fruity. Citrusy. Honey.

Finish Well-balanced sweetness and

acids. Mineral aftertaste.

Alcohol 13%

Verdict A subtle medium dry Tokay.

Inside Information: The Tokaji region borders

with Slovakia, where some were using the name.

Protection was ensured and the world-famous

Tokay wines are only from Hungary! The wines

express the local minerality and represent the

true terroir. Integrating more and more growers,

who agree to focus on quality. In wine-making the

focus is to preserve the fruitiness and prevent

even the slightest oxidation. Vinlock glass

stoppers are used as closures.

ively

Kolonics Károly Somló Juhfark 2015

Tasted April 2017

At Tea and Wine at the T Club,

New Delhi.

Region Somló.

Varietal 100% Juhfark.

Appearance Stunning yellow with gold

reflexes.

Nose Non-explosive. Complex

tarragon-lemongrass.

Palate Lovely extraction. Distinct

walnut notes. Minerally and a

touch of salt.

Finish Light petroleum aftertaste. A

bit bitter at the end.

Alcohol 14%

Verdict For the new wave wine lovers.

Inside Information: The modest family dwellings

owned by several generations are located in

Apátság-dűlő on the south-side of the Somlo

hill. The wines are made in the classical style,

following restrictions on volume. Oak is used

in the fermentation and ageing. The wines are

typical to Somló and rich in minerals. Uniquely

designed accommodation is open around the

year to soak in the beautiful landscape of the

Somló region.

Szepsy Furmint Tokaj 2016

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Tokaj.

Varietal 100% Furmint.

Appearance Yellow hues.

Nose Focussed. Smoky and

minerally.

Palate Voluptuous. Citrusy. Lots of

honey with white fruits.

Finish Bitter aftertaste.

Alcohol 13.5%

Verdict Complexity framed in oak.

Inside Information: His family has been making

wines in the region since the 16th century and

they are inseparable. István Szepsy is ageing

himself (almost 70 years old), but like his wines,

very gracefully. He is an icon in the region,

much awarded including as the Winemaker of

the Year and the Aszú King. He balances the

traditions and culture of the land with modern

influences. The 52 hectares of vineyards include

high-pitched, stony, steep slopes planted with

vines with an average age over 40 years to make

wines. Produces the best quality grapes without

compromise. Worldwide recognition for his dry

wines from the Mád village using the Furmint

that are set in mildly fired Zemplén barrels for the

40 month maturation. Some say this is the new

Golden age of the Tokaj wine region.

Voluptuous


Pleasant

Szöllősi Cserszegi Fűszeres

Neszmélyi 2016

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Ászár-Neszmély.

Varietal 100% Cserszegi Fűszeres.

Appearance Pale yellow with green tinges.

Nose Aromatic. Floral and spicy.

Palate Lightly sweet, fruity and lively

acidity. Very pleasant.

Finish Lasting. Lean and clean.

Alcohol 12%

Verdict Hungarian answer to Alsace

Gewürztraminer!

Inside Information: Hungarian Winemaker of the

Year 2015, Mihály Szöllősi, sadly passed away

soon after this wine was released. The highest

rated farm in the region – Taj Grébicshegy is the

home to the 5.5 hectare Cserszegi plantation.

Guyot plantings on clay, loess, brown forest

soil. Spring 2015 was very early in the year and

Summer 2015 was warmer than the average of

many years. Hand harvesting made gentle and

selective selection possible.

Tasted June 2018


Region Fekete-Hegy in Villany.

Varietal 100% Cabernet Franc.

Appearance Deep garnet.

Nose Expressive. Ripe cherries and

dried fruit.

Palate Fruit forward. Berries,

chocolate, tobacco. Oaky.

Finish Well rounded.

Alcohol 15.05%

Verdict A robust red.

Ripe

Inside Information: Bock produces wine only

in best vintages – not every year. 16 year old

vines are growing on limestone and mixed

loess. Cabernet France is the main grape for the

region. The wine is matured for 24 months in

Hungarian and Slovenian oak barrels. Oak is used

very elegantly – not too much in the face. This

premium red wine is a Protected Designation of

Origin. 3,800 bottles were made.

Smooth

Fruity

Bock Cabernet Franc Single

Vineyard Villany Fekete-Hegy 2014

Villa Patzay Rizling 2017

Tasted June 2018

At Veritas Winebar, Budapest.

Region Villany.

Varietal 70% Olaszrizling, 30% Riesling.

Appearance Light yellow.

Nose Green apple and green

almond. Minerally.

Palate Rich, round and creamy. White

pepper.

Finish Long finish.

Alcohol 11.5%

Verdict A pleasant on-the-go wine.

Inside Information: Patzay estate is home to the

Villa Pátzay Borhotel, which sits on the top of a

dormant volcano in Badacsony. Surrounded by

vineyards, not only are the panoramic views from

the Villa breath-taking, it has all facilities that are

expected from a modern hotel.

Bock Capella Single Vineyard Blend

Villany 2011

Tasted June 2018


Region Ördögárok, Fekete-Hegy,

Jammertal in Villany.

Varietal 60% Cabernet Franc, 30%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%

Merlot.

Appearance Glass-coating dark cherry.

Nose Concentrated. Smattering of

red fruit and hints of leather.

Palate Well-rounded smooth tannins.

Abundant ripe blackcurrant,

blueberries, black plums with

coffee and dark chocolate.

Finish Full bodied and long.

Alcohol 16%

Verdict So old world style.

Inside Information: A typical Bordeaux blend

sourced from the best estates – Cabernet Franc

from Fekete-Hegy, Cabernet Sauvignon from

Jammertál and Merlot from Ördögárok. This

wine is produced every 4th year. Usually rather

high in alcohol. Goes through 100% malolactic

fermentation. 24 months in 2nd or 3rd use

barrique and another 36 months in bottle, so

minimum 5 years before selling.


FINE Tasting

83

Cserszegi

laszrizling

Bock Libra Single Vineyard Blend

2012

Tasted June 2018


Region Ördögárok, Fekete-Hegy,

Jammertal in Villany.

Varietal 50% Cabernet Franc, 25%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%

Merlot.

Appearance Deeply intense colour – almost

verging on black.

Nose Oaky. Red berries coated with

vanilla.

Palate Full-bodied. Over ripe fruit

with tobacco and very strong

chocolate.

Finish Dominant tannins.

Alcohol 15%

Verdict Bold new worldish.

Inside Information: Another Bordeaux blend

of varying percentages made by the younger

generation. 24 months in first use French and

Hungarian oak barrels. Some experimentation

with Slovenian oak. This wine is made every 4

years. A bit closed, allow it to open up to entice

you.

uhfark

Bock Royal Cuvée Villany 2013

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Villany.

Varietal Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir.

Appearance Dark garnet.

Nose Eruption of ripe blackcurrants

and blackberries. Spicy.

Palate Complex. Herbaceous,

leathery, smoky, chocolate – a

bit rustic. Vanilla oak.

Finish Long with puckery tannins, but

stays fresh.

Alcohol 13.74%

Verdict When you mix Bordeaux and

Burgundy blends.

Inside Information: The Tokaji region borders

with Slovakia, where some were using the name.

Protection was ensured and the world-famous

Tokay wines are only from Hungary! The wines

express the local minerality and represent the

true terroir. Integrating more and more growers,

who agree to focus on quality. In wine-making the

focus is to preserve the fruitiness and prevent

even the slightest oxidation. Vinlock glass

stoppers are used as closures.

hardonnay

Bock Magnifico Single Vineyard

Selection Villany 2007

Tasted June 2018


Region Ördögárok in Villany.

Varietal 100% Merlot.

Appearance Deep maroon.

Nose Exuberant. Mature. Dates and

prunes with strong influence of

tobacco.

Palate Full bodied. Concentrated.

Ripe fruits steeped in rum.

Soft tannins.

Finish Enticingly long. A hint of

‘anardana churan’ (Indian

digestive).

Alcohol 16%

Verdict An explosion of superabundant

flavours.

Inside Information: The exceptional quality comes

from the special selection from the vineyard,

available only in exceptional years. The wine’s

name is inspired by Il Magnifico Lorenzo Medici.

100% malolactic fermentation and 24 months in

new first use barrique. Only 4 vintages have been

produced in 20 years. 6700 bottles only.

Gróf Buttler Egri Bikaver 2015

Tasted June 2018

At Kollazs at Four Seasons

Gresham Palace, Budapest.

Region Eger.

Varietal 27% Kékfrankos, 26% Merlot,

18% Pinot Noir, 13% Cabernet

Sauvignon, 7% Kadarka.

Appearance Deep red.

Nose Soil like. Forest fruits and

spices.

Palate Toasty. Prunes, black cherries,

cloves.

Finish Rich and lasting.

Alcohol 13%

Verdict Earthy.

Inside Information: The Gróf Buttler Winery was

founded in Eger in 1999 with the oenological

philosophy of making ‘perfect’ wine by traditional

wine-making methods and the least possible

intervention. With 36 hectares, the wines are

exclusively made from the grapes harvested

on own cultivated vineyards. The Nagy-Eged

plantation is 500 metres above sea level, making

it the highest vine plantations in Hungary –

complete southern exposure, 20-30% slope

gradient, gritty, limestone soil and the continuous

air flow – all contribute to a special microclimate

that likens this parcel to a true Grand Cru terroir.

The wines come with a guarantee of a unique,

incomparable experience of the terroir.


Hárslevelű

ekfrankos

Gunzer Zoltan Kadarka 2012

Tasted April 2017


Region Ordogarok and Bocor in Villany.

Varietal 100% Kadarka.

Appearance Light ruby.

Nose Rose and lavender. Plum and

some oaky spiciness.

Palate Red fruit preserve, bramble

and black cherry. Hints of

cedar.

Finish Bitter and nutty. Structured

acidity.

Alcohol 13.5%

Verdict An afternoon well spent.

Inside Information: Zoltan Günzer started with a

plantation of 0.5 hectare. This is now 25 hectares

that deliver 150,000 bottles per year. He insisted

on making the best use of the natural vales of

the vineyards, with attention given to the local

particularities. But keeps an eye on investments

in technology, because “really good wines require

both grapes of excellent quality and technological

perfection”.

Fűszeres

Günzer Tamás Portugieser Villany

2017

Furmint

Kovacs Nimrod Rhapsody Eger

Bikaver Monopole 2014

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Eger.

Varietal Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, Syrah,

Merlot, Cabernet Franc.

Appearance Bright garnet red.

Nose Cranberries. Oak.

Palate Vegetal and green peppers.

Cherries. Dry tannins.

Minerally.

Finish Medium finish with slightly

bitter aftertaste.

Alcohol 13%

Verdict A harmonious Hungarian

symphony.

Inside Information: Selected from own Premier

Cru terroirs, the wines owe their characters to the

granite and tufa laden soils. The microclimate

of Bogács Lake lends fresh and fruity balanced

flavours. The winery is housed in seven

continuous cellars on the historic Verőszala Street

in Eger. The wines are made in the tradition from

the 18th century – where wine press houses

were just above the cellars and once the grapes

were pressed and the juice fermented, wines

were stored in barrels in the cool cellars below –

with 21st century technology.

Tasted June 2018

At Lounge at Ferenc Liszt

International Airport, Budapest.

Region Villany.

Varietal 100% Portugieser.

Appearance Purplish.

Nose Clean. Ripe fruit. Red berries.

Palate Ripe strawberries and

raspberries.

Finish Medium bodied. Short. Some

tannins.

Alcohol 12%

Verdict Let’s have another.

Inside Information: Tamás Günzer Winery is

located in a very charming historic cellar in the

wine region of Villány and has been welcoming

guests since 1998. They put a lot of emphasis on

the Ördögárok, whose microclimate and terrain

features make it one of the best growing areas in

the region.

Sauska Cabernet Sauvignon Villany

2015

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Villany.

Varietal 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Appearance Deep purple with red hues.

Nose Aromatic. Anise, mint and dill.

Subtle oak.

Palate Black forest fruit with cherries

and chocolate. Jammy.

Finish Bold and lively. Muscular

tannins.

Alcohol 13%

Verdict An unforgettable mouthfeel.

Inside Information: Established in the year

2000 by the Hungarian entrepreneur Christian

Sauska in a historic building in Tokaj once known

as the Citizens' Casino. This family-run winery

produces wines using a blend of indigenous and

international varietals using fruit from their Tokaj

and Villány vineyards. With a young, talented

and passionate staff, the founding family fulfil

their desire to make world-class wines – that are

precise, elegant and uniquely Hungarian. Sauska

has been granted a special logo for the wine

region of Villany – just like an AOC in France – a

special flower which only grows in this region.

FINE Tasting


85

Ászár-Neszmély

zekszard

St. Andrea Áldás Egri Bikavér 2012

Tasted November 2017

At Hungarian Table

Choreographies, New Delhi.

Region Eger.

Varietal 50% Kékfrankos, 26% Merlot,

18% Cabernet Franc, 5% Pinot

Noir, 1% Menoir.

Appearance Deep dark ruby.

Nose Potpourri of black fruit and

pepper.

Palate Vibrantly fruity and spicy.

Complex. Chocolate and

tobacco.

Finish Velvety and structured. Full

bodied.

Alcohol 14%

Verdict Hold till 2022 for best drinking

potential.

Inside Information: St. Andrea Wine Estate

believe that the Eger wine region – at the foot of

the Bükk mountains in the north-east of Hungary

– is one of the most exciting wine regions of

Hungary with unique possibilities. They aim to

create terroir-specific character wines based

on traditions and, at the same time, follow the

requirements of today’s quality winemaking. Old

varieties, like Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Furmint,

Kadarka and Kékfrankos take priority here. An

effort is made to know more about the terroirs

and parcels, to improve cultivation and also to

adjust the winemaking to suit best the different

varieties. They put their heart and soul into

understand the essence of our earthly mission.

Tolna

Takler Szekszardi Bikaver Reserve

2012

Tasted April 2017


New Delhi.

Region Szekszard.

Varietal Kekfrankos, Kadarka, Merlot,

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Syrah.

Appearance Deep ruby.

Nose Opulent. Dark berries and

dates. Smoky. Spicy.

Palate Dry. Juicy berries. Hints of

cracked black pepper and

roast coffee beans. Evident

oak.

Finish Lasting. Grippy tannins.

Alcohol 14.5%

Verdict An icon of the region.

Inside Information: The Takler family been

growing vines and making wines in Szekszárd

since the 18th century alongside other wine

making families, according to the settlement of

Maria Teresia. The current winery was established

in 1987 and is controlled by the “consultative

board of three” – the father and his two sons.

The “Takler Trio” farms 58 hectares in the best

locations in the region.

Takler Görögszói Kékfrankos 2011

Tasted June 2018

At Kollazs at Four Seasons

Gresham Palace, Budapest.

Region Szekszárd.

Varietal 100% Kékfrankos.

Appearance Deep red.

Nose Concentrated bouquet of ripe

fruit with some spices.

Palate Complex. Prunes, black

cherries, cloves.

Finish Long. Soft tannins.

Alcohol 14%

Verdict Elegance in the glass.

Inside Information: The fruit is taken from one

of the best-known and most favoured Görögszó

vineyard (named after the Greek monks who

once live here) which is on the most noted slopes

of the Szekszárd wine region. Only 3570 bottles

of this single vineyard wine were produced. In

2011, the vineyards flourished at the beginning

of summer, undisturbed by wind or rain and

then received the right amount of precipitation.

Perfect maturity in the clusters for harvest in early

October.

Trieber Geza Kadarka Szekszard

2013

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Szekszard.

Varietal 100% Kadarka.

Appearance Deep ruby red.

Nose Aromatic. Redberries. Oak.

Palate Re-iteration of the intense

redberries. Some spice.

Finish Medium and balanced.

Elegant.

Alcohol 14%

Verdict A clonal miracle.

Inside Information: The estate is on the fine

slopes of the Szekszárd wine region, in which

10 clones of Kadarka are grown on the eastern

side. Currently on 5 hectares, it is expected that

3 more hectares will be acquired in the near

future. With an objective to preserve traditions,

a balance between traditional and modern

technology is struck in the cellar. This wine has

been barrel aged for 18-24 months.


Eger

Barta Oreg Kiraly Dulo Tokaj

Mátra

Szamorodni 2013

Tasted April 2017


New Delhi.

Region Tokaj.

Varietal Furmint, Harslevelu, Muscat

Blanc a Petits Grains.

Appearance Light bright gold.

Nose Orange peel, apricots and

honey with hints of sweet

spices.

Palate Sweet lime, lychee, mangoes,

honeycomb, caramel toffee

and a bit of hazelnut. Lovely

balance of ripe fruit and

nuances of botrytis.

Residual sugar 115 g/l

Alcohol 11.67%

Verdict Standout cloying sweetness.

Inside Information: In the 19th century, the

extravagant Russian Czar who was very fond

of the “wines of the gods”, rented a village in

the region of Tokaj from the Austro-Hungarian

monarchy. About a dozen officers from his military

were commissioned to stay in that village with

clear orders – choose the best wines for the

Czar. But the better part of the job was to taste

all the wines and obviously get drunk. In the 21st

century, Barta offers you a similar option. Stay in

the historic Rákóczi-Aspremont mansion on the

estate in the village of Mád and taste the wines of

the estate – to get drunk is your choice!

Grand Tokaj Tokaji Aszú 6

Puttonyos 2013

Tasted November 2017

At Hungarian Table

Choreographies, New Delhi.

Region Tokaj.

Varietal 100% Furmint base wine

with Hárslevelű, Zéta,

Kabar, Kövérszőlő, Yellow

Muscat Aszú added during

fermentation.

Appearance Golden yellow.

Nose Fresh dried apricots,

nectarines and tropical fruits.

Spring chamomile blossoms

with a hint of pepper.

Palate Seductive. Jammy. Apricots

and plums.

Finish Mouth-filling. Long lasting.

Harmonious.

Alcohol 9%

Verdict No need for dessert.

Inside Information: This wine is made from

100% aszú grapes – shrivelled berries fully

encompassed by botrytis are harvested. The

fermentation takes place in the Szegi cellar where

this wine is let to age in 136-500 litre barrels

for at least 18 months. The result is an exquisite

quality wine.

Villany

Grand Tokaji Late Harvest

Sargamuskotaly Tokaj 2015

Tasted June 2018


Budapest.

Region Mad, Tokaj.

Varietal 100% Sargamuskotaly.

Appearance Straw yellow.

Nose Locust flowers in fresh bloom

and acacia.

Palate Creamy and smooth.

Nectarines and honey. Hint of

botrytis. Apricots and mint.

Finish Unending, flavourful and

perfectly balanced.

Alcohol 9.5%

Residual Sugar 110 g/l

Verdict A truly noble wine.

Inside Information: Grand Tokaj is the leading

Hungarian winemaker in state ownership, a

guardian and protector of the national wine

making tradition. With ownership of 54 hectares

of vineyard and an astonishing 1050 hectares

under contract, this is the largest winery in the

historical Tokaj- Hegyalja wine region which

is a coveted UNESCO World Heritage site.

Modernisation of the facilities in 2013 saw a

storage tank facility of 66,000 hectoliters and a

10 million bottles bottling plant. In the vineyards,

a geographic information system allows modelling

of grape procurement and forward planning. All

to ensure that Tokaj wines regain their rightful

place.

Béres Tokaji Magita Cuvée 2016

Tasted December 2018

At Hungarian Ambassador’s

Residence, New Delhi.

Region Tokaj.

Varietal 67% Hárslevelű, 30% Furmint,

3% Sárgamuskotály.

Appearance Bright golden yellow.

Nose Enticing. Stone fruits.

Christmas cake and spice.

Palate Lush texture. Ripe apricots,

tropical fruits and honey.

Finish Lingering – almost everlasting.

Defines balance.

Residual Sugar 103 g/l

Alcohol 11%

Verdict Nectar in the glass.

Inside Information: A very prestigious family

owned, premium class, medium size winery in

the Tokaj wine region that made its debut in

2003. State-of-the-art technology and a modern

outlook works the historical plots of their estate

which is a total of 45 hectares and the wines are

outstanding – with even higher promise. “Every

single drop is Béres” conveys that the winery

upholds proven Béres values of quality, reliability

and perseverance.

FINE Tasting

opron


87

Photo: Corinthia Hotel Budapest

88


FINE Spotlight

SPOTLIGHT


89

Photo: Singhal 2018

The landmark Chain Bridge on

the River Danube links the

glory of the past on the Buda side

and that of the future on the Pest

side in Hungarian Capital Budapest

– the “Pearl of the Danube” – a

stimulating blend of tradition and

contemporary culture which is at

the heart of Hungarian creativity.

The natural setting of the city, its

inspired architecture that say their

piece, bustling and diverse culture,

glorious heritage dating back many

centuries – all string together to

create an unparalleled offer to take

a pick from.

The ‘Spa City’ for a good part of

the post war years, its world famed

thermal baths were identified by

the Roman legionaries almost

2000 years ago. It is estimated that

almost 70 million litres of thermal

waters gush out of 123 natural

hot springs and drilled wells – the

healing powers are legendary!

A culinary revolution has not

been far behind. The celebrated

creations of Hungarian cuisine

can be savoured in the fingerlicking

street food and the fusion

menus at haughty establishments.

From Michelin starred restaurants

to vibrant bars to cruise boat

restaurants on the river to pubs –

an ultitude of gastronomic delights

are precious treasures that make

the soul of the city tick. >


FINE Spotlight

BOCK BISTRO

THE NEW YORK CAFÉ

© Bock Bistro

Much awarded chef Lajos Biro is notorious for

being straight-forward and very outspoken

– his first book is titled “I’m too much”. He

leased the boulevard facing west wing of

the Corinthia Royal Budapest Hotel to set

up Bock Bistro, where the fare is a modern

take on local dishes – a fusion of Spanish

tapas inspired by traditional Hungarian

cuisine – served in a casual, inviting and

friendly ambience with an outstanding wine

list selected by the acclaimed winemaker

József Bock from only the best Hungarian

local varieties.

“No one has gone broke just because he

tried to please his guests”, the team focusses

on the basic tenets of hospitality – create

excellent dishes of high quality, use only the

finest and local ingredients, and serve them

with style. Beautifully plated, generously

large servings paired with an enjoyable

glass by the in-house Sommelier and live

accordion music wow diners. The awards

have also come through – recommended

by the Michelin Guide and Bib Gourmand

among a whole cabinet of awards – but the

“most important thing is still the guest’s

satisfaction”.

Bock Bistro

Erzsébet körút 43-49, 1073 Budapest

T: + 36 1 3210 340 • E: info@bockbisztro.hu

Dating back to the turn of the 20th century,

this eclectic Italian Renaissance-style edifice

headquartered the New York Life Insurance

company – hence the name, the New York

Palace – and was home to nobility and

artists. Restored to its original grandeur in

2006, this café on the Erzsébet Korut on the

Pest side of the city, has earned the title,

“The most Beautiful Café in the World”.

Magnificent frescoes dating back to the

mid 19th century adorn the ceiling. Venetian

glass, marble columns, rich brocade and

gilded stuccoes complete the ornate décor

– the place has a lovely Belle Époque charm

– an inspiration for intellectuals and cultural

visionaries.

Actively part of the city’s gastronomic

renaissance, the menu pays tribute to

the multi-cultural cuisine of the Austro-

Hungarian monarchy with classic dishes like

Beef Goulash, Fishermen Soup and Chicken

Leg Paprikash-style, not to forget famous

desserts such as the Eszterházy cake.

New York Café


T: +36 1-8866-167

www.newyorkcafe.hu

© The New York Café


91

Photo: Arvydas Venckus/unsplash.com

92


VERITAS WINEBAR

It could well be largest wine bar in Budapest

– 360 wine references with a wide selection

from Hungary and the world of which a

constantly changing selection of 60 wines

are offered by the glass! And to top that,

almost any bottle is opened at the request

of the guest.

FINE Spotlight

Tucked away in a vibrant district off Erzsébet

körút on the Pest side, Veritas is a cool and

stylish place. A place where wines can be

discovered by wine virgins or dissected by

wine lovers or flaunted by the wine snobs.

The owner, István Pátzay, believes that

“frequenting a wine bar is a lifestyle

choice..”, and has tried to make sure that

prices don’t come in the way of vinos

becoming regulars at any time of the day.

Keeping up with modern and healthy eating

trends, the food offer is mostly curated with

local, artisan and organic ingredients.

© Veritas Winebar

Veritas Wine Bar

Dohány utca 58-62, 1074 Budapest VII

T: + 36 30 471 0748 • E: info@veritaswinebar.hu

www.veritaswinebar.hu

GERBEAUD

Gerbeaud is among the most treasured

gastronomic assets of Hungary. Traditions

have been preserved through the two wars,

a revolution and many owners, even if the

business has required evolution from when

it was founded in 1858. Gilded interiors,

lavish chandeliers, polished marble and

intricately carved wooden features adorn

the Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty tér

which was reopened in 2010 following a

grand make-over.

This is where Budapest converges to sin on

finger-licking desserts at the opulent café

on the square or the laidback terrace or onthe-go.

Hailing from a family of pâtissiers, Emile

Gerbeaud, made his brand a landmark – the

cakes were immortalized by popular songs

and the packaging was a work of art. The

name-sake Gerbeaud cake is synonymous

with the city. No visit is complete without it.

Not content to sit on laurels, current

owners Katalin Pintér and Anna Niszkács

have carried forward the spirit of innovation

and introduce new flavours and textures to

their patrons. The signature Gerbeaud 160

created by Chef Tamás László – for the 160th

Anniversary – was such a creation.

Gerbeaud Confectionery

Vörösmarty Square 7-8, 1051 Budapest

T: +36 1 429 9000

© Gerbeaud


93

KOLLAZS – BRASSERIE

AND BAR

Vibrant and inspiring. Glamorous and

timeless. Relaxed and very affordable.

These adjectives would usually not be taken

in the same breath. Kollázs Brasserie & Bar

is the contemporary brasserie at the Four

Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace. Derived

from the Hungarian word for “collage”, the

understated experience mirrors the creative

permutations in the warm welcoming design

that bridges the old and the new, the eclectic

blend of local and international flavours, and

the presentations that span authentic rustic

to contemporary. All well thought of, by the

chef, Árpád Győrff.

Photo: Csaba Barbay

The Gresham Palace was built in a

“Secession” style for the aristocracy at the

turn of the century. A near perfect site at the

foot of, and almost in alignment with, the

Chain Bridge on the east bank of the Danube

River. The palace embodies historic grandeur

and youthful exuberance. Diligently restored

to bring together almost two million mosaic

tiles, an ornate Preciosa chandelier, grand

stairways and winter gardens, it opened as

a Four Seasons Hotel in 2004.

Kollazs – Brasserie & Bar

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest

Széchenyi István Tér 5-6, 1051 Budapest

T +36 1 268 5408 • E: reservations@kollazs.hu

www.kollazs.hu

© Kollazs – Brasserie and Bar

The Funicular

Photo: Singhal 2018

94


CAVIAR & BULL

The most recent entrant has taken the

Budapest restaurant scene by storm. “The

minute you stand still, you automatically

move back”, very thoughtful words of the

very eminent Maltese Chef Marvin Gauci

who has focussed on successfully raising

the bar, ‘one incredible dish at a time’ – and

seized the lease to open in the Corinthia

Royal Budapest Hotel.

FINE Spotlight

Marvin hops tables, engaging his guests in

tales about his restaurants and capturing

valuable feedback from them – careful to sit

down with only those who might be keen to

share a conversation. An insider view of the

kitchen is the special treat for a seat at the

Chef’s Table.

The menu is a delicious combination of

colour, texture, scent and taste. Largely

Mediterranean, it has a strong Hungarian

imprint and is based on local produce as it

targets the coveted Michelin rating. Served

in a fine fine-dining setting, one is advised

to ignore the cutlery and enjoy eating with

hands! A unique experience that is based on

views, hues and symphony of taste.

© Caviar & Bull

Caviar & Bull


T: +36 30 8 32 32 32

www.caviarandbull.com

ONYX

Onyx Restaurant was born when Katalin

Pintér of the Gerbeaud Gasztronómia Kft.

set out to give Hungary a haute cuisine

restaurant of international acclaim. The 55

cover restaurant is housed on the first floor

of Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square.

The interiors share a glimpse into the cuisine

– the ornate palatial interiors blend with the

modern cabinets showcasing the wine.

Building on the legendary traditions, Chef

Ádám Mészáros, focusses on innovation and

new techniques to create the dishes on the

menu using the finest regional ingredients.

The “Within Our Borders” menu emphasizes

the highest quality domestic components

and the “Beyond Our Borders” menu

focusses on the creativity and imaginations

of the chefs.

A unique culinary indulgence and adventure

through re-interpreted, extravagantly

executed Hungarian dishes. Onyx was

awarded the first Michelin star in 2011 (and

every year since). The second star in 2018

made it uniquely the very first Two Michelin

Star restaurant in Hungary.

© Onyx

Onyx Restaurant

Vörösmarty tér 7-8, 1051 Budapest

T: +36 30 508 0622 • E: onyx@onyxrestaurant.hu

www.onyxrestaurant.hu


95

Hungarian

Table Choreographies

Text: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal

Photographs: Embassy of Hungary New Delhi


FINE Experience

A

winter afternoon at the Residence of Hungary. The

tea was served in the most exquisite eye-catching

porcelain. And rather quickly, our conversation with

H.E. The Ambassador of Hungary to India, Gyula

Pethő, and his wife, Annamária Somogyi, moved

from wine… The piece of art was from Zsolnay – one

in the prized collection of traditional chinaware from

Hungary at the Residence.


97

Chinaware has a very special connect for both of us.

Rajiv grew up dining in the finest from Great Britain

that would be elaborately laid out on the dining table

and Ritu received an enviable collection from her

mother-in-law. This might have been our inspiration

to create a market for luxury tableware in India, which

was hitherto non-existent, with Churchill China and

Villeroy & Boch. We must have done something right –

H.M. Queen Elizabeth II graced our launch on her last

state visit to New Delhi in 1997!

A few months later, we received a very special

invitation from Gyula and Annamária for the Hungarian

Table Choreographies – a unique dinner to showcase

the products and traditions of porcelain makers

alongside a cultural feast from Hungary – that was

laid out at the Residence of Hungary in New Delhi with

Judit Merkler-Szántó, Founder and Managing Director

of Art Around the Table with the help of Dr. Zoltan

Wilhelm, Director of the Hungarian Information and

Cultural Centre.

98


FINE Experience

We were welcomed with a flute of Hungarian sparkling

wine, Chateau Vincent, a furmint based Methode

Traditionnelle non-vintage from the Tokaj region. A

card with a floral pattern is handed to each guest as

we were shown around the spectacular pop-up display

of Hungarian porcelain curated from the various

collections in the Residence.

In the dining area, four table settings had been laid

out for us. Each one was based on a dinner set from

the iconic Hungarian porcelain companies – Kalocsa,

Zsolnay and Herend – that been beautifully laid out.

The table settings were perfectly co-ordinated with

napkins, centre appointments and menu cards that

were designed and painted in the same pattern of the

dinner set especially for this occasion by talented,

young Hungarian artists and designers. One noticed

how even the invitation cards had been designed to

carry the dinner set patterns.


99

The napkins on each table were different

from the other one. They mirrored the

dinner set design and were hand-painted,

embroidered and folded in an origami style

– quite stunning! The centre-pieces on

each table were handcrafted to combine

the elements of the dinner set design and

painted flowers designed especially for this

occasion.

Some of us had managed to misplace the

little card that was handed to us – it was the

code to the table assigned to us. Annamaria

was kind enough to allow us to pick another

one and all guests were seated so that the

story for the evening could unfold.

As we toasted to the aesthetics, our hosts

shared with us that porcelain-making in

Hungary dates back to the late 18th century

– Hollóháza was founded in 1777 – and the


FINE Experience

traditions are very closely guarded. Many

makers are still able to produce collections

that involve intense intricate hand work from

master artists even today. Entire patterns are

unique and can’t be duplicated – every stroke

is hand done – and most orders are made to

order for the customer!

The main aim of the evening was to give

the selected guests a unique experience

that would evoke the common elements of

Indian and Hungarian culture through the

installations, music and menu. The four

showcase tables were bound together by a

special mark of outstanding quality – each

one is a “Hungarikum”.

A “Hungarikum” is a unique registry

that classifies Hungarian natural values

and national products including those that

should be preserved and protected. It is a

collective term for those values/ products that


101

are worthy of distinction and are considered

an outstanding value of the Hungarian

people thanks to their typically Hungarian

attribute, uniqueness, specialty and quality.

It is a repository that reinforces the sense of

togetherness, unity and national awareness

and presents Hungarian values/ products in

Hungary and abroad.

Dinner was served. Annamaria had planned

an elaborate menu, in which the ingredients

and flavours common to India and Hungary

were combined to present a feast, with The

Executive Chef Jay Kumar of the Residence and

his team. Red Paprika is the most commonly

used spice in Hungarian cuisine and it was

the key seasoning in the dishes we savoured

through the evening.


FINE Experience

If the plates were beautiful, the plating was not far

behind – a feast for the eyes. Gyula prized out some

special Hungarian wines from his cellar and we were

treated to some really lovely bottles and even more

special digestives.

A delightful evening that was so well choreographed

by Annamaria – the special installations on the table,

the creations from the kitchen, the wine forms that

included liquid gold, the magnificent residence – all

blended in perfectly.

Gyula summed up the evening, “in this digital age,

in the virtual world that we have created around us,

there is a real need to spend real time together at the

same place and same time. We are very grateful that

you spent this evening with us. This is not the end. We

will continue to do this.” We had our invite for another

special Hungarian evening from very gracious hosts. >


103

P o r c e l a i n H u n g a r i k u m

A

pearl of Hungarian Culture. This ancient

town was founded in the year 1001 by

Saint Stephen, the first king of Hungary, and

became an important cultural centre even though

most of its inhabitants work in agriculture.

Folk-art originating from this region is inspired

by the famous Hungarian Red Paprika motif –

strings of which are left to dry on the walls before

grinding to powder – this is complemented by

flowers in very simple compositions. Women

specialized in drawing – or as it is called in

Hungary – ‘writing’ the patterns paint the walls

of their houses with decorative patterns and

make embroideries. Of late, Kalocsa patterns

have inspired the fashion world.

The Kalocsa Porcelain Manufacturing

domiciled in the historical town of Kalocsa has

been producing high-quality, richly decorated,

hand-painted porcelain products since 1971. A

tradition of several hundreds of years and the

colourful folklore of the region that is so beautifully

combined with the art of porcelain painting has

been preserved. Colourful and cheerful, this

folk art is easy to recognise. When privatised in

1996, its workers acquired ownership, and they

continue to hand paint the porcelainware that is

much-sought-after internationally. The designs

and lines have remained unchanged for years,

which makes it possible to reorder the same

products years later.


The history of the very talented Zsolnay

family is intertwined with that of Pécs, a

very old town in south-west Hungary that was

founded by the Romans in the 2nd century under

the name Sopiane. The porcelain factory was

founded in 1852 by Miklos Zsolnay, but it was his

multi-faceted son, Vilmos – businessman, artist,

ceramist, inventor – who made the brand world

famous. Driven by, “I always want to replace the

good with the better”, Vilmos was also decorated

by the French Government with the order of the

Légion d’Honneur in 1878.

At the 1878 Paris World Fair, innovative products

like ‘pirogranite’ and ‘porcelain faience’ were

shown and won the Grand Prix Gold Medal

– pirogranite pieces were used by architects

and artists in their commissions that decorate

famous buildings built in the Austro-Hungarian

monarchy and Central Europe. Zsolnay’s bestknown

and most carefully guarded invention

(still made only by Zsolnay) is the ‘eosin’ glaze

– a unique opal metallic lustre that resembles

the shining dawn light – named after the Greek

Goddess of the Dawn, Eos.

The brand has upheld tradition and artistic value

even as it pioneered technological advances in its

age. Zsolnay's unique glaze and dye technology,

are unique. The base ivory color and the rich

color tones in the décor make each creation

unrepeatable, unique and unique!

FINE Experience


105


P o r c e l a i n H u n g a r i k u m

FINE Experience

The legendary Hungarian porcelain

maker was founded in 1826 by

Vince Stingl and christened in the

town where it was born, an agricultural

district not far from Lake Balaton, the

largest lake in Central Europe. Herend

balances tradition and innovation that

transitioned into the 21st Century.

The values of skills passed through

generations, time tested traditions of

porcelain making, secret recipes that

bring the ingredients to life, the drive

for outstanding quality and continuous

renewal are embodied. Focussing on

tableware, ornaments and figurines,

Herend creations have been inspired

by numerous artistic styles to create

the very unique and very characteristic

Herend world.

Widely awarded, Herend found

international acclaim and patronage

of the royals. The title of Supplier to

the Imperial and Royal Court, the

highest recognition from the Imperial

Court, was awarded by Emperor

Francis Joseph, who also bestowed

the Certificate of Nobility on the owner,

Mór Fischer. The pace that powered

the Herend story, as it is known today,

was set under his management who

took over the reins of the indebted

company in 1839.

Extremely large orders were

placed by Emperor Francis Joseph.

The tableware for the personal use

of Emperor was set in gold with the

imperial seal, his military officers

got pink, and his courtsmen got

lilac. Hungarian Statesman from the

19th Century, Count Albert Apponyi

inspired the Apponyi pattern. The set

that incorporated his suggestion of

the enlarged main motif of the ‘Indian

Basket of Flowers’ pattern found its

way onto the tables of the Elysée

Palace at the state reception in honour

of Emperor Francis Joseph.

A special dinner set decorated with

orientally-inspired butterflies, flowers

and blooming branches was ordered by

Queen Victoria at the Great Exhibition

in London in 1851 and is known since

as the Victoria pattern. A modern

interpretation of this pattern – Royal

Garden – was specially created for the

Hungarian State as a gift for the Royal

Wedding of the Duke of Cambridge,

Prince William. Gift pieces to mark

the christening of Prince George and

Princess Charlotte Elizabeth Diana

were created to extend the set.

At the turn of the millennium, Herend

managed to ward off acquisition

threats from global tableware majors

and re-structured itself into a very

unique ownership structure in which

almost three-fourths of the shareholding

is held by its employees. The

company has grown to become the

world's largest porcelain manufacturer

that operates as a profitable enterprise

that is proudly Hungarian.


107

COLUMN

MARY KAE IRVIN

MOVIES AND

WINES

When I was first introduced to the wine industry in the United States, the year was 1985.

I was a newly minted 21 year old – just barely legal to enjoy alcohol. On route to a job

interview, I took a wrong turn (both literally and figuratively) that led me to what would

become a major change of course in my life. I stopped for directions in a beautiful park like setting surrounded

by fountains, flower, trout ponds, beautiful trees and a French Empire style Chateau. “Now this,” I thought, “is

lovely! I’d love to work in a place like this!” The place was the Chateau Ste Michelle Winery, a fairly young and

upcoming enterprise at the time. They offered me a job, and my wine journey began.

Though I was a quick study, there was much to

learn. What better way to catalogue information

in my newfound interest than to marry it to

things I already knew? I loved movies and acting

so in an effort to help myself better understand

and remember wine styles I set about casting a

movie with wine:

Chardonnay is my Leading Lady (Best

Actress) – smart, sophisticated and sexy. She

might be curvy and voluptuous like Marilyn

Monroe – think barrel fermented California

ageing ‘sur lees’. She might be lean and sinewy

a la Natalie Portman – think French Chablis.

But, showcasing her varietal character with or

without the mantle of oak – she’s typically the

most complex of the Divas – she’s Meryl Streep,

Susan Sarandon, Katherine Hepburn, Audrey

Hepburn... Elegantly crafted and intelligent,

she has warranted the most care and attention

to detail in her handling.

Sauvignon Blanc would be my Best

Supporting Actress – along with Semillon,

Pinot Gris, and Viognier – not quite as complex

or layered. She’s the best friend, witty side-kick


FINE Irvin

and likeable support – she’s Allison Janney,

Laurie Metcalf, Helena Bonham Carter CBE.

When you burn out on Chardonnay, she’s the

company you long for, the welcome respite.

Which leaves us our ingenues – Riesling,

Chenin and Gewurztraminer – the Sweet-

Young-Things. They are Baywatch Babes of the

wine industry – simple, lovely, vivacious – enjoy

them now as they may not last the test of time.

My Leading Man (Best Actor) is Cabernet

Sauvignon or any wines using ‘Cab’ as a

backbone in the blend. Again, he is sexy,

muscular, assertive, a bit of swagger, hair-onhis-chest,

yet elegant – he’s Harrison Ford, Paul

Newman, Anthony Hopkins, Sean Connery

– they age gracefully. Just when you thought

they’d hit their peak, they just continued to get

better. Granted, not every Cabernet is going

to be George Clooney in a tux – some might

present more like Jeff Bridges in True Grit – so

find your aesthetic, and run with it. For me,

a well crafted ‘Cab’ is one you’d love to have

dinner with today, but would be even sexier and

desirable in 20 years.

Best Supporting Actors – each have a

personality of their own. Take Merlot. He’s

Albert Brooks, James Corden, John Goodman –

he’s got the love handles, is approachable, nonthreatening,

congenial and almost everybody

likes him – he’s the “fun guy” in the room.

Other Best Supporting’s include wonderful

blenders – like Malbec – alone he’s very Johnny

Depp – a chameleon – depending on where the

grape is grown, it presents differently subject

to terroir. In a blend, it fills in all the gaps like

grout on a mosaic. Then there’s Cabernet Franc.

He’s Gregory Peck with a firm tannin core – he

gives gravitas and depth just like the grape to the

Bordeaux blends. Pinot Noir is the stand-alone

Supporting Actor and while temperamental to

both grow and craft, we’re always in search of

the memorable ones. At its best, he is a perfectly

suave and easy – he’s Mathew McConaughey

complete with polished shoes. A spicy, smoky

and hedonistic Syrah – think Antonio Banderas

in Zorro – offers a mealtime sizzle factor while

never taking itself too seriously.

Rosé is my Disney Channel young adult star

of the day – simple and certainly palatable at

“that” moment on a picnic or on the water, but

not a lot of depth – unlikely that some years

from now, you will remember the name.

Of course, there are many other wines that

don’t show up on this cast list, but an overview

for those folks just logging wine styles into their

mental rolodex (if you’re my generation) or

smartphones. I find this very helpful. Hope you

do to! >

109


Luxury

on the

Bosphorus

Text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal

Photographs: Çirağan Palace Kempinski


T he shimmering clear blue waters of the famed Bosphorus caress the

political boundaries of Europe and Asia as they flow through the heart of

FINE Luxury

Istanbul – the city that was the seat of the mighty Byzantine and Ottoman

empires for over 1500 years and is now a bustling cosmopolitan metropolis

where a ferry ride from Europe to Asia (and back) is just under a euro!


111

to restore the Palace and

execute the plans for a new

luxury hotel in the traditional

Turkish architecture that

were whetted by the Council

of Historic Buildings. The

Kempinski Group would

manage the property which

opened its historic gates in

1992.

Istanbul Classic

Many phases of modernisation

and renovations later, the

Çirağan Palace Kempinski

Istanbul is the jewel on the

European shores of the

Bosphorus that mirrors the

glamorous life of ultimate

luxury of an Ottoman Sultan

for its guests.

A Legend

The only Ottoman Imperial Palace on the Bosphorus where

the Sultan’s once lived, the Çirağan Palace has a heritage

that dates back to the 17th century. The Sultan’s daughter

hosted lamp-lit celebrations or “Çirağan Festivals”, in the

lush gardens that extended from Ortaköy to Beşiktaş. The

Persian word Çirağan meaning “lamps” became synonymous

with the Bosphorus shore-line.

Sultan Abdülaziz completed the Palace in an “Eastern” style

with North African influence and moved in in

1871. No expense was spared to pander to his

opulent tastes – the finest marbles, motherof-pearl,

rare woods and special craftsmen

were brought in from all over the world. The

final bill – 2.5 million Ottoman gold coins!

We are celebrating a landmark

anniversary. Our dear friends,

H.E. Şakir Özkan Torunlar

(Ambassador of Turkey to

India) and his wife Leyla, have

weighed in on our choice of

Istanbul as a destination. It is going to be our first ever

visit to the historic Eurasian city. As regards our lodgings,

it seems that there is no choice – Çirağan Palace it has

to be!

Bookings done, the concierge Sinan shares details of the

special Çirağan Welcome Service – we could choose to

arrive by helicopter at the helipad at the Palace entrance

on the Bosphorus, by yacht at the Palace jetty or by

A devastating fire in 1910 reduced the splendour

to ashes. During the post-war occupation

of Istanbul, the charred ruins of the Palace

were barracks for the French Military and the

grounds were home to the Beşiktaş Football

Team.

After many decades of neglect, the Turkish

Ministry of Culture and Tourism took on a

very ambitious project to bring back the

glory of the Çirağan and its gardens – the

R. H. Sanbar Group secured the mandate


limousine. The service is a

very strong recommend – we

are welcomed by the CWS

team at the aircraft door and

zipped out (with all our bags)

of the very busy Istanbul

Atatürk Airport extremely

swiftly to our designated

Bimmer 7.

FINE Luxury

As we purr through the

boulevards of Istanbul on a

bright sunny day, we soak

in the sights of an imposing

skyline that juxtaposes the

conservative past with the

modern present. As we drive

past the Yildiz Park, once

the hunting grounds for the

Sultans (now the green lung

in Beşiktaş), we manage to

translate the message flashed

by our chauffeur, that we are

approaching our destination.

The Indian flag has a position

of prominence at the entrance of the Çirağan Palace. The

doormen in coattails usher us through the mandatory

security checks and the front office team in their very

smart Turkish red finery offer a lovely bunch of Palace

garden flowers and a traditional welcome in the cheerfully

bright plush lobby – where floor to ceiling artworks are

accentuated by the imposing flower arrangements and

locally crafted kilims.

Majestic Bosphorus

Expecting to be trans-continental haggards on arrival,

we have requested an express check-in to our room. Of

course, it’s the must-have Bosphorus-view but it’s quite

literally on the Bosphorus – just some metres from it!

We raise a toast with Champagne Louis Roederer Brut

Premier on our private balcony with a panoramic view on

the imposing suspension bridge, the city’s Asian shore, the

historic peninsula, Maiden’s Tower and some glimpses of

the old city. The magnificence of the ancient waters of the

Bosphorus is simply stunning…

Most of the Çirağan’s 310 rooms are designed to offer a

Bosphorus view – glorified by travel reviews through the

centuries – and almost every spot in the complex offers

a special view. The rooms that harmoniously tie-in the

European influence on Asian heritage are luxuriously large

and very comfortable – we have six pillows on the bed

to choose from and an additional menu just in case! The

amenities are Tuscan Soul by Salvatore Ferragamo with

special fragrances for his & hers – how very thoughtful.

The soaps are handmade from a selection of natural

products – sealed with the Turkish Nazar Boncugu (evil

eye charm).

German Workhorse

Ralph Radtke, the highly decorated General Manager,

welcomes us at the Bosphorus Grill, and thanks us for

choosing his Palace for our special celebration. We raise

another glass of Louis Roederer – the Palace’s chosen

champagne. Ralph has worked in 17 countries on all

continents over several decades. At the Çirağan Palace

Kempinski Istanbul since 2011, he is rather matter-offact.

“Çirağan has a place in the history of Turkey. Three

sultans lived in the Palace. These are the very walls of the

Sultan’s Palace”.

Ralph is a bundle of energy and has a hawk-eye for detail

– he quietly alerts staff to a missing fork on the wobbling

table. He is distracted as he spots a flurry of activity –

a busload of grammar

school valedictorians

are taking their time

to pass through the

private gardens to

board their sunset

cruise at the Çirağan

pier. Ralph admits to

being a showman – an

actor – the hotel is his

stage. Just that the play

changes every day!

113



FINE Luxury

115


Fairy-Tale Weddings

In recent years, travel advisories were issued by

governments of many countries, that constitute important

markets for the hotel, following the events of unrest in

Turkey. And, the devaluation of the Turkish Lira is putting

the luxurious environs of the Çirağan Palace out of bounds

for the locals. In these trying times, Ralph tells us, “we try

not to put all our eggs in one basket. We are focussing on

emerging markets like China and India and on weddings.”

Under this direction, the Çirağan’s team of wedding

professionals vests itself in the latest international

trends and popular

themes. The historic

architecture,

the glory of the

Bosphorus, the

famous marble

staircase, the

grand ballrooms

piece together the

unparalleled settings

for epic dreamscome-true

weddings

for anything upto

1200 guests. The

breath-taking

decorations, cherrypicked

menus across

several international

cuisines, doting

service, personal bridesmaids and butlers – all bring the

human touch to create a lasting memory. The bride’s and

groom’s wishes are the team’s command – the team put

their best foot forward to ensure that expectations are met,

and the couple can enjoy the ceremonies without a care.

Ottoman Treat

Tuğra is the signature restaurant of the Çirağan Palace

that revives the glamour of an era – rich velvet curtains,

intricately carved woodwork, extravagant paintings and

gold gilded glassware are complemented by the customised

plates crowned with the flourish of the “Sultan’s signature”.

Based on historical

references, Chef

Hüseyin Ulaş and his

team have created

dishes just the way

they were served to

the Sultans – for the

“ultimate Ottoman

dining experience”

– and this has been

widely recognised

in international

awards.

Our table is booked

for 7pm. A rose

sherbet in an ornate

gold rimmed crystal

glass is served as


we arrive at

the Tuğra

Terrace. From

our table,

we see the

Bosphorus

gleaming in

the sun and

glittering

under the

lights as day

transitions

to night. Our

menu for

the evening

allows us to

sample the classics – the “Testi Lamb Casserole” cooked

in the traditional Anatolian clay pot and “Sebzavat Aşi”

a special vegetarian casserole with produce from the

Palace gardens. Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Palmes d'Or Brut

Millesime are our bubbles for the evening. Sommelier Yücel

insists on suggesting a bold Turkish red that shares the

name, Tuğra, based on the Öküzgözü grape from the Denizli

wine region.

Pièce de Résistance

We take up Neslihan Sen, Director of Public Relations, and

her colleague, Cansu Baş, on their offer to take us on a guided

tour of the property. “Çirağan Palace is an Ambassador of

Turkish hospitality”. The autographed photographs of

the heads of state, government delegates, billionaires,

royal families,

film stars, artists

and celebrities on

large walls in the

reception area

are testimony

to the countless

eminent figures

that have come

through the

Çirağan doors.

A black and

gold iron grill

separates the

new from the old.

The Palace is uniquely steeped in history! Neslihan walks

us through the incredibly well documented and preserved

archives of the Çirağan Palace. And draws our attention to

the carving on the remains of a stone pillar, “this ancient

pattern is the inspiration for our logo”.

The towering ceilings, glorious chandeliers, opulent wall

embellishments, grand staircases and stone pillars have

been pain-stakingly restored. Not surprisingly, awards

galore. “These recognitions re-iterate that the Çirağan

Palace is timeless. The awards offer comfort to guests, who

expect nothing but the best”. The Palace and its grounds

are buzzing with activity – a film crew is shooting with

a celebrity – and Neslihan very discreetly upholds guest

privacy.

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Wine philosophy

The Turkish Republic decreed in 1927 that the government

monopoly would take control of the production of all

alcoholic beverages – but private production of wine and

vineyard development was permitted – with a view to

protect and develop the local wine industry.

The cellar at the Çirağan Palace – inspired by the Ottoman

patronage – stores treasures from around the world for

their well-heeled guests – from vintage champagne to

first growth Bordeaux from exceptional vintages. Not

unexpectedly, though.

Extremely proud of the many millenniums of wine-making

in Turkey, Director of Food & Beverage Marie Grosyeux,

believes that it is critical to be respectful of the local

culture and showcase local wines. Turkish wines may

not be very popular in the city, but this didn’t deter the

Çirağan from taking the lead to create a focus on this

novelty category – 77 references from white to red to rose

to sweet… and 9 wines by the glass! Doluca Tugra Okuzgozu 2015

Region Denizli.

Sevilen Premium Chardonnay

2014

Region Sevilentepe, Menderes.

Varietal Chardonnay.

Appearance Light golden yellow.

Nose Subtle. Ananas. Hints of vanilla.

Palate Buttery. Creamy. Citrusy.

Finish Dry. Full. Good acidity.

When to drink Now.

Ageing 12 months.

Verdict Exotic.

Sarafin Cabernet Sauvignon

2015

Region Saroz.

Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon.

Appearance Dark violet.

Nose Cherries and carnations.

Palate Tightly textured. Nuances of bitter

chocolate.

Finish Intense. Layers open up. Appreciable

tannins.

When to drink Now to 2025.

Ageing 14 months.

Barrels 225 litre French.

Alcohol 14.5%

Verdict Bold and beautiful.

Varietal Öküzgözü.

Appearance Deep ruby with a purple rim.

Nose Closed and shy. Fruity.

Palate Menthol. Dark fruits. Strong and

fleshy. Soft tannins.

Finish Medium bodied. Well balanced. Good

length.


Ageing 5 months on lees and 7 months

without lees.

Barrels 70% French and 30% American.

Alcohol 14.96%

Verdict An excellent expression of the

varietal.

Sarafin Merlot 2016

Region Saroz.

Varietal Merlot.

Appearance Dark ruby.

Nose Complex. Nuances of vanilla.

Palate Black fruits. Hint of spice.

Finish Soft. Lightly oaky. Long.


Ageing 12 months.

Barrels 225 litres French.

Verdict Plumpish.

Karma Shiraz Bogazkere 2014

Region Denizli and Diyarbakir.

Varietal Shiraz and Bogazkere.

Appearance Deep ruby with bluish tinges.

Nose Fruity. Hints of tobacco.

Palate Fruit forward. Puckery tannins.

Finish Jammy. Vibrant acidity. Powerful.

Lasting.


Ageing 8 months.

Barrels French and American.

Verdict Immaculate.


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The Restaurants

A royal repast is laid out at the

Çirağan Palace with a multitude

of culinary delights. Istanbul

socialites have discovered the

place “to see and to be seen”.

The Gazebo Lounge reflects

an elegant Turkish style in

the elevation, rugs and the

stoneware. A few bottles of

Turkish wine gems are always

kept for those guests who might

want to be adventurous. The

Turkish coffee is an absolute

must – even if just for the

aesthetics of the presentation.

A more than elaborate breakfast

of around 250 dishes is set in

the Laledan Restaurant. Basis

organic, the options range

from regional specialities to health foods to international

favourites. Enjoy a king’s breakfast with a glass (or more)

of champagne and a relaxing view of the palm courts and

the 17th century gate in the gardens.

Executive Chef Sezai Erdogan brought together skilled

chefs from the holy land of Baklava in Anatolia to create the

Çirağan Palace’s own Baklava Room – a first for a luxury

hotel in Istanbul. More than 15 types of finger-licking

Baklava are on offer.

Le Fumoir & Pavilion is very popular with the city socialites

and guests. Set in the lush green gardens amidst the

palm trees, it as the “only place to have hookah and

shisha in style” while enjoying the refreshing breeze of

the Bosphorus.

“On the mystical waters” would best describe the al-fresco

Bosphorus Grill that is operational in summers. Spectacular

panoramic views complement the Turkish cuisine and large

selection of seafood. Don’t miss the ice-cream cart!

Stay Healthy

The "Infinity Pool" takes centre-stage in the Çirağan

Gardens. A dip is rewarded with spectacular views and

it seems that one is floating on the Bosphorus from the

European side to the Anatolian side. A relaxing cool-off

in the summer and the pleasure of swimming in a pool

surrounded by snow in the winter.

For the health freaks, a very well-fitted gym for the

international traveller, gender specific sauna-steam rooms

and an indoor pool and jacuzzi for those who prefer


ambient temperature. The Çirağan Palace Kempinski Spa

is managed by Sanitas. “Indulge your spirit and restore

balance in your mind, body and soul”, the treatment

offerings are quite elaborate.

Hammams were culturally significant and very popular in

the local context – not just for cleansing and relaxing the

body but also socializing and celebrating – thankfully the

tradition survived. Sanitas recreated the authentic and

luxurious atmosphere of Turkish baths. Carefully prepped

by the masseuse for the “Pasha Treatment” and asked to lie

on the central platform in

the marble clad hammam

room, the body is rubbed

down with a textured

mitt and covered with the

fragrant froth of soap to

cleanse and revitalise the

skin. End-result – a feeling

of relaxation and wellbeing.

Anticipating needs

From the private lounge

area in the rooms, one

can sit and indulge in the

Bosphorus views. It seems

that the straits are rather

busy – the international

ships (oil tankers, tramp

steamers, container

vessels, cruise liners),

the local boats (ferries,

taxis, yachts, dinghies,

motor launches, fishing

caiques) and even a

submarine – a thrilling

seascape of sea vessels

on display.

Despite the array of

dining options in the

Palace, we are spoilt silly

by the generous servings

of the choicest Baklavas,

insanely juicy fruits,

cakes and chocolates

and savoury local

delicacies in decorative

silver platters that

appear in our room

every time we step

out. Not content with

bulging our waist-lines

during our stay, a lovely

replica of the façade of

the Çirağan Palace in

chocolate was offered as our take-away memory – we

are already carrying so many more.

The Çirağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul is a paradise for

those who enjoy the good things in life – where every

guests’ wish is a command.

Our special getaway was crowned with a royal flair – we

lived moments of history. >

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FINE Wine & Champagne India - Winter 2018

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