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quality and value. A 1968 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva wascedary and just starting to dry out on the finish but still a good,mature wine a few years ago.There’s not much to say about 1958, though it was a good yearfor Barolo. Madeira of any vintage is usually a decent drink.Cossart Bual 1958 is not a bad example of rustic, warmingMadeira in my experience.FINE HistoryIf you’re celebrating a 70th in 2018 then you’re in luck.Although overshadowed by the awesome reputation of the ’47s,1948 produced some magnificent wines in Bordeaux. VieuxChâteau Certan 1948 was tasted – or rather, drunk – twice ina short period over ten years ago. I noted it as “a monster of awine” because of its relentless tannins, which I suspect will keepit going ad nauseam. It was also a great year for Vintage Port.We will have to skip 1938, which was a poor year, but 1928was one of those vintages when most, if not all, of the classicregions made wonderful wines, though they are now likely to bepast their sell-by date. When last seen, Vieux Château Certan1928 was just about hanging on in there. A better experiencewas had with a deeply-coloured and still tannic 1928 CVNEImperial Gran Reserva. Ancient Rioja can be irresistible.Centenarians can enjoy great Vintage Ports from 1908,especially Cockburn’s, which was the preeminent Port producerin the first half of the twentieth century before a long declinethat was arrested only when Symington Family Estates acquiredit from Beam Global Spirits & Wine in 2010.The nineteenth century had several great “8” years (gr8s?). Thelast pre-Phylloxera vintage was in 1878, which was also a seminalyear for literature: Thomas Hardy’s The Return of the Native,Henry James’s Daisy Miller, and Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Kareninawere published this year. Of course you’ve read them all.There is a delicious reference to Chablis and oysters in chapterten of the first book of Anna Karenina. Levin, Oblonsky, andStepan Arkadyevitch are dining together:“What shall we drink?”“What you like, only not too much. Champagne,” said Levin.“What! To start with? You’re right though, I dare say. Do youlike the white seal?”“Cachet blanc,” prompted the Tatar.“Very well, then, give us that brand with the oysters, and thenwe’ll see.”“Yes, sir. And what table wine?”“You can give us Nuits. Oh no, better the classic Chablis.”“Yes, sir. And your cheese, your Excellency?”“Oh, yes, Parmesan. Or would you like another?”“No, it’s all the same to me,” said Levin, unable to suppress asmile.FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA49
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