13.05.2020 Views

Jeweller - May 2020

• Corona catch-up: news and updates on the latest COVID-19 policies, plans and goals • Rocky road: how the coronavirus crisis has shaken the international diamond trade • New perspective: managing your mindset amid uncertain times

• Corona catch-up: news and updates on the latest COVID-19 policies, plans and goals
• Rocky road: how the coronavirus crisis has shaken the international diamond trade
• New perspective: managing your mindset amid uncertain times

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

L to R: Tourmaline; polished tourmaline earrings, Retrouvaí<br />

Tourmaline: a rainbow in all seasons<br />

The name tourmaline comes from the<br />

Sinhalese word turmali, which means<br />

“mixed”. Colour is the major characteristic<br />

of this gemstone, which is found in more<br />

hues, shades and nuances than any<br />

other gem.<br />

Gemmologists have various names for the<br />

different colours of tourmaline, including<br />

rubellite, verdelite, indicolite, dravite, schorl<br />

and the unique liddicoatite.<br />

Mineralogists, however, would prefer<br />

them to be called by their colour and then<br />

‘elbaite’, which is the mineralogical name<br />

for tourmaline.<br />

Tourmaline is a crystal boron silicate<br />

mineral belonging to the trigonal crystal<br />

system. It occurs as anything from long<br />

and slender to thick, prismatic and<br />

columnar crystals that are usually<br />

triangular in cross-section.<br />

A durable mineral with a hardness of seven<br />

on Mohs’s scale, tourmaline also boasts<br />

strong pleochroism, which means that iit<br />

shows different colours, or depths of colour<br />

when viewed at different angles or rotated.<br />

Tourmaline occurs in all colours, including a<br />

range of bi-colour and tri-colour specimens<br />

– the most coveted of which is the<br />

watermelon tourmaline, named for its pink<br />

centre and green edge. Top specimens are<br />

highly regarded by collectors and usually<br />

cut as slices.<br />

Tourmaline is found in various locations<br />

globally, including Brazil, the USA, Tanzania,<br />

Madagascar, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sri<br />

Lanka, and Malawi.<br />

Rubellite<br />

Rubellite tourmalines vary in<br />

colour from mid to deep reds<br />

that closely resemble ruby.<br />

The name comes from the Latin rubellus,<br />

which means reddish. Rubellite is one of the<br />

rarest and most valuable tourmalines.<br />

Many gems in the 17th-century Russian<br />

crown jewels that were originally thought to<br />

be rubies are actually rubellite tourmalines.<br />

Verdelite<br />

Verdelite is the term used by<br />

gemmologists to refer to green<br />

tourmalines and there is a broad<br />

range of shades – some are so dark that the<br />

green colour can only be recognised when<br />

the stone is held against the light.<br />

Wonderful examples of verdelite tourmaline<br />

exist in the colour range between bluegreen<br />

and dark bottle-green.<br />

The colour is the result of concentrations of<br />

iron, titanium and, occasionally, chromium<br />

in the crystal.<br />

Indicolite<br />

Indicolite occurs in bright blue<br />

hues to bluish green and good<br />

quality stones are quite rare.<br />

Perhaps the most well-known indicolite<br />

tourmalines come from Paraíba in Brazil.<br />

Paraíba tourmalines have often been<br />

described as neon, as they appear to glow.<br />

Tourmaline<br />

From the Sinhalese<br />

word turmali, meaning<br />

“mixed”, due to its<br />

many colours<br />

Colour: Multiple<br />

Found in: Various<br />

locations globally,<br />

including Brazil,<br />

the USA, Tanzania,<br />

Madagascar,<br />

Afghanistan, Pakistan,<br />

Sri Lanka, and Malawi<br />

Mohs Hardness: 7<br />

Class: Boron silicate<br />

Lustre: Vitreous<br />

Formula: Varies<br />

Dravite<br />

Dravite is found in tones of golden<br />

and tawny brown, and is another<br />

variation of tourmaline for which stones<br />

of good quality are not often available.<br />

There is a yellow tourmaline from Malawi,<br />

discovered in the autumn of 2000, that is<br />

clear and pure with just a hint of green and<br />

circulates under the trade name ‘canary’.<br />

Schorl<br />

Schorl or black tourmaline is<br />

very common, totally opaque, and<br />

inexpensive compared to other<br />

tourmaline. It can also often be found in<br />

much larger sizes –<br />

sometimes more than 70 carats!<br />

Liddicoatite<br />

Liddicoatite typically exhibits extraordinarilybeautiful,<br />

geometrically-patterned colour<br />

zoning. It was recognized as a unique<br />

mineral species in 1977, and was<br />

named in honour of American<br />

gemmologist Richard Liddicoat.<br />

When discovered, it was the sixth tourmaline<br />

species to be recognized – today, there are<br />

14 different tourmaline group members.<br />

Ultimately, tourmaline is an attractive gem<br />

that stands up to its rainbow name. In fact,<br />

the term describes tourmaline so well that<br />

one could have a collection of them in every<br />

colour and feel as though one had gathered<br />

the entire world of gems.<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 39

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!