Jeweller - May 2020
• Corona catch-up: news and updates on the latest COVID-19 policies, plans and goals • Rocky road: how the coronavirus crisis has shaken the international diamond trade • New perspective: managing your mindset amid uncertain times
• Corona catch-up: news and updates on the latest COVID-19 policies, plans and goals
• Rocky road: how the coronavirus crisis has shaken the international diamond trade
• New perspective: managing your mindset amid uncertain times
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REVIEW<br />
Gems<br />
L to R: Tourmaline; polished tourmaline earrings, Retrouvaí<br />
Tourmaline: a rainbow in all seasons<br />
The name tourmaline comes from the<br />
Sinhalese word turmali, which means<br />
“mixed”. Colour is the major characteristic<br />
of this gemstone, which is found in more<br />
hues, shades and nuances than any<br />
other gem.<br />
Gemmologists have various names for the<br />
different colours of tourmaline, including<br />
rubellite, verdelite, indicolite, dravite, schorl<br />
and the unique liddicoatite.<br />
Mineralogists, however, would prefer<br />
them to be called by their colour and then<br />
‘elbaite’, which is the mineralogical name<br />
for tourmaline.<br />
Tourmaline is a crystal boron silicate<br />
mineral belonging to the trigonal crystal<br />
system. It occurs as anything from long<br />
and slender to thick, prismatic and<br />
columnar crystals that are usually<br />
triangular in cross-section.<br />
A durable mineral with a hardness of seven<br />
on Mohs’s scale, tourmaline also boasts<br />
strong pleochroism, which means that iit<br />
shows different colours, or depths of colour<br />
when viewed at different angles or rotated.<br />
Tourmaline occurs in all colours, including a<br />
range of bi-colour and tri-colour specimens<br />
– the most coveted of which is the<br />
watermelon tourmaline, named for its pink<br />
centre and green edge. Top specimens are<br />
highly regarded by collectors and usually<br />
cut as slices.<br />
Tourmaline is found in various locations<br />
globally, including Brazil, the USA, Tanzania,<br />
Madagascar, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sri<br />
Lanka, and Malawi.<br />
Rubellite<br />
Rubellite tourmalines vary in<br />
colour from mid to deep reds<br />
that closely resemble ruby.<br />
The name comes from the Latin rubellus,<br />
which means reddish. Rubellite is one of the<br />
rarest and most valuable tourmalines.<br />
Many gems in the 17th-century Russian<br />
crown jewels that were originally thought to<br />
be rubies are actually rubellite tourmalines.<br />
Verdelite<br />
Verdelite is the term used by<br />
gemmologists to refer to green<br />
tourmalines and there is a broad<br />
range of shades – some are so dark that the<br />
green colour can only be recognised when<br />
the stone is held against the light.<br />
Wonderful examples of verdelite tourmaline<br />
exist in the colour range between bluegreen<br />
and dark bottle-green.<br />
The colour is the result of concentrations of<br />
iron, titanium and, occasionally, chromium<br />
in the crystal.<br />
Indicolite<br />
Indicolite occurs in bright blue<br />
hues to bluish green and good<br />
quality stones are quite rare.<br />
Perhaps the most well-known indicolite<br />
tourmalines come from Paraíba in Brazil.<br />
Paraíba tourmalines have often been<br />
described as neon, as they appear to glow.<br />
Tourmaline<br />
From the Sinhalese<br />
word turmali, meaning<br />
“mixed”, due to its<br />
many colours<br />
Colour: Multiple<br />
Found in: Various<br />
locations globally,<br />
including Brazil,<br />
the USA, Tanzania,<br />
Madagascar,<br />
Afghanistan, Pakistan,<br />
Sri Lanka, and Malawi<br />
Mohs Hardness: 7<br />
Class: Boron silicate<br />
Lustre: Vitreous<br />
Formula: Varies<br />
Dravite<br />
Dravite is found in tones of golden<br />
and tawny brown, and is another<br />
variation of tourmaline for which stones<br />
of good quality are not often available.<br />
There is a yellow tourmaline from Malawi,<br />
discovered in the autumn of 2000, that is<br />
clear and pure with just a hint of green and<br />
circulates under the trade name ‘canary’.<br />
Schorl<br />
Schorl or black tourmaline is<br />
very common, totally opaque, and<br />
inexpensive compared to other<br />
tourmaline. It can also often be found in<br />
much larger sizes –<br />
sometimes more than 70 carats!<br />
Liddicoatite<br />
Liddicoatite typically exhibits extraordinarilybeautiful,<br />
geometrically-patterned colour<br />
zoning. It was recognized as a unique<br />
mineral species in 1977, and was<br />
named in honour of American<br />
gemmologist Richard Liddicoat.<br />
When discovered, it was the sixth tourmaline<br />
species to be recognized – today, there are<br />
14 different tourmaline group members.<br />
Ultimately, tourmaline is an attractive gem<br />
that stands up to its rainbow name. In fact,<br />
the term describes tourmaline so well that<br />
one could have a collection of them in every<br />
colour and feel as though one had gathered<br />
the entire world of gems.<br />
<strong>May</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 39