June-July 2020

Malaysia Mount Kota Kinabalu
There is also the chance to tarry in the Balabac islands
themselves. There is a snug anchorage in the cove near the
SE tip of Balabac Island itself, with a steep climb up the path
to the over 110 year old Spanish lighthouse at Cape Melville
with its commanding view over an open ocean. Somewhere
on the coral reef to the west lies the remains of the SS Melville
herself. It is a poignant reminder that you are entering islands
that have many wrecks some dating back
1000 years ago when Chinese mainland
Asian traders plied these waters in search
of natural products, gold and pearls. They
found an abundance of swift-spittle and
sea-slugs that are delicacies built deep
into the folk law of an ancient culture.
West coast of Palawan Island
The west coast is full of whales cruising
in the deep waters of the Palawan Passage which lies some
30 miles offshore for a safe passage all the way through
to a preferred destination. The first 100 miles are perfectly
explorable, but are guarded by semi-charted reefs that lie
close and not-so-close offshore in the shallow waters of the
continental shelf.
Ulugan Bay is the first deep indent on the west coast, with
road access to the capital city, Puerto Princesa, some 1 &
1/2 hours away, which is an entry port for the Philippines.
The Underground River
A little north of here is one of the Natural Wonders of the
36
It is a poignant
reminder that you are
entering islands that
have many wrecks
some dating back
1000 years ago...
World, The St. Paul’s Underground River. This runs over
8 kilometers into the mountain, and is a fascinating and
awesome visit. Named originally by a British sea captain
charting the area in the nineteenth century, because the
main stalactite and stalagmite cavern reminded him of his
beloved home country’s main cathedral in London town. A
paddled local boat takes you into the dank coolness of the
mountain for 3 kilometers.
Port Barton
The sail north passes a coastline with very
British chart names, such as Queen’s head,
before the pleasurable anchorage in Port
Barton, where a ‘primitive’ developed resort
scene thrives in a snug area cut off from
the open sea by several islands and reefs.
Waterfall swims, scuba dives, forest walks,
and new friendship meetings add to the pleasures of the
water journey that still lies ahead.
The Malampaya Sound cuts inland for 30 miles, and is home
to a unique pod of Irrawaddy dolphins that thrive in the
brackish waters of the sound, and have become so isolated
that they are the only recorded school of this type of
dolphin in the whole of the Philippine Islands. Now guarded
by a conservation project monitored by the local fisherfolk.
El Nido
Then there is the scenic majesty of the El Nido area, with
its wealth of sheer limestone outcrops and several majestic