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oll cuisine corner
heart’s delight
with dim sum
By Julie Goldstein
Women pass rolling carts to every table in the dining room and offer
guests a selection of dishes. Every cart holds a different dish, each one
equally unique and mouth-watering. Diners choose what dishes to
accept, which allows everyone at the table to sample an assortment of
delights. The process warrants a leisurely meal; in fact it is encouraged
for diners to linger, relax, and enjoy. The diner has the power to choose
as many plates of an item as he can eat, but he must be wary as the servers
count the empty plates at the end of a meal to calculate the cost. Perhaps
it is the pleasing aroma that drifts from the tiny indulgences in steamer
baskets or maybe the joy one gets from selecting which dishes to taste
that make dim sum an enchanting culinary tradition.
Dim sum can be compared to French hors d’oeuvres, Spanish tapas or
even to a buffet where diners get the privilege of opting for a variety of
dishes. With dim sum every dish is an individual portion that evokes a
sense of exclusivity to the diner. It is a fascinating Chinese custom as it
enables one to taste a selection of morsels from the myriad of offerings of
the beloved cuisine. Dim sum, literally meaning, “To touch the heart,”
originated in the Canton region of China, and is closely related to the
Chinese tradition of yum cha—drinking tea. Ancient travelers along
the Silk Road would often need a place to rest so they would stop at tea
houses and enjoy yum cha. Though it was once considered unbecoming
to enjoy food with tea, it became known that tea aided digestion, so
as teahouses started adding snacks to their menus, this custom steadily
progressed into what we now know as the delightful dim sum.
Dim sum was brought to North America in the 19th century with
Chinese immigrants, many of whom were Cantonese, and has become
a popular trend in the United States. Restaurants serving dim sum
have arisen all over the country, particularly in Manhattan and other
metropolitan areas. There is a little something for everyone to eat at
dim sum, which makes it a versatile way to eat, especially for a group
dining together. Both sweet and savory dishes are served at dim sum, the
Chinese meal equivalent to the American brunch. It includes a plethora
of fried wontons, dumplings, meatballs, steamed cakes, and puddings.
On the table sits a selection of condiments typically including sesame oil,
soy sauce, and fermented black bean sauce for dim sum dipping.
Dim sum is often served in courses beginning with lighter steamed dishes
such as har gow—delicate shrimp dumplings, carefully dipped in a bath
of soy sauce to enhance the sweetness of the shrimp . Fried wontons, pot
stickers , and spring rolls may be served in the next course—then striking
delicacies of chicken feet, crab claws, and spareribs appear. Diners often
find themselves in a whirlwind of culinary amazement as the carts roll by.
What could the next cart hold? Possibly congee, a savory rice porridge,
or char siu bao—steamed buns traditionally filled with sweet barbequed
pork. Dessert consists of steamed cakes and mini buttery tart shells filled
with smooth and sweet egg custard.
44 | rollmagazine.com
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o f t e n s e rv e d a l o n g w i t h h a r g o w , s t e a m e d d u m p l i n g s m a d e w i t h
p o r k f a t , s c a l l i o n s , a n d b a m b o o s h o o t s . sh u m a i d u m p l i n g s a r e
a c t u a l ly e a s y t o m a k e a t h o m e ; m o s t l a r g e g r o c e ry s t o r e s h av e
t h e m o r e u n u s u a l i n g r e d i e n t s n o wa d ay s , a n d s t e a m e r s a r e r e a d i ly
ava i l a b l e. th i s is a l a r g e r e c i p e, t o m a k e s u r e y o u h av e p l e n t y t o g o
a r o u n d w h e n f r i e n d s visit. an d t h e y w i l l, w h e n t h e y s m e l l t h e s e
b a b i e s c o o k i n g . ma k e s 72 o f t h e m .
i n g r e d i e n t s -
1 c u p s h i i ta k e m u s h r o o m s , s o a k e d 30 m i n. in h o t w a t e r
2¼ l b s. g r o u n d p o r k
¾ l b u n c o o k e d s h r i m p- p e e l e d, d e v e i n e d, a n d d i c e d
2¼ t s p. k o s h e r s a lt
6 t s p. g r a n u l at e d s u g a r
3 t b s p. n at u r a l p e a n u t b u t t e r
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6 t b s p. c o r n s ta r c h
3 t s p. sesame o i l
1 t s p. w h i t e p e p p e r
72 g y o z a w o n t o n s k i n s
72 p e a s
d u m p l i n g s t e a m e r
(o r w h at e v e r y o u h av e h a n d y f o r s t e a m i n g)
Combine all but last two ingredients, mix well, and refrigerate 4
hours, uncovered. Take wonton skin, and put 4 tsp. of mixture in
center . Crimp dumpling wrapper up the sides while holding the filling,
making a little basket shape. Pack down filling, smooth over the top,
and lightly tap on surface to flatten bottom. Garnish with green pea.
When ready to serve, steam dumplings 7 minutes.
Bull and Buddha, 319 Main St., Poughkeepsie, features a Dim Sum
Brunch every Sunday, 11 AM-8 PM. Visit www.bullandbuddha.com for
more information.