Explore More UK Summer 2020



See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2020 £3.95



Discover America’s heartland






A Nordic adventure

to experience the

northern lights

Explore the Galápagos Islands

with Ecuador, Peru & Machu Picchu

Embark on an extraordinary new journey to ancient worlds. From the Incan

mysteries of Machu Picchu and the treasures of Peru and Ecuador, sail with a

small group to the Galápagos Islands, one of the few places on Earth where

human footprint is kept to a minimum. Here, in Charles Darwin’s living

laboratory, come face to face with the unique wildlife that call these islands

home, including giant tortoises, sea lions, iguanas, blue-footed boobies and

penguins. Galápagos is one of the planet’s most isolated destinations. It is

also one of its most awe-inspiring. Join us as we explore this truly remarkable

destination, in a way that only Viking can.

13 and 15-day 2022 journeys from £7,990pp

Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on

a Wild Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru ocean cruise departing on 27 November 2022. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more

information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

VC_EM_Galapagos_A4_v5.indd 1 18/05/2020 14:23:38


Welcome to our summer edition of Explore More

We very much hope you will enjoy reading our latest edition and hope, in these unprecedented

times, it might provide you with some escapism.

To complement our expedition voyages to the Arctic and the Antarctic, we have announced

that we will be venturing to the Galápagos Islands, where you will be able to learn about the

unique flora and fauna of this fascinating region, as well as discovering Peruvian culture and the

Inca treasures of Machu Picchu. And, from 2022, we will be expanding our river voyages into

America’s heartland, along the iconic Mississippi River – featuring historical Civil War sites, rare

wildlife, arts and music and a long chain of warm and welcoming towns and cities.

For those of you who are keen cooks, we have some delicious French recipes to try at home,

as well as plenty of new books to inspire your future travels. One of our travellers recalls the

thrill of seeing the northern lights, and we delve into the history of intricate jewellery designs

dating back to the Viking Age.

We wish you all a wonderful summer ahead, and very much look forward to welcoming

you on board again soon.

With best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

P.S. We hope you’ve had a chance to look at Viking.TV – our exciting new online experience

channel where you can view a range of content specially tailored to your interests.

Tweet us:


Like us:


Follow us:


Email us:


Find out more

about the

Viking Explorer


on our website


OFC_EM20_FINAL2.indd 1 22/05/2020 10:44

08 70








See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2020 £3.95






Discover America’s heartland



A Nordic adventure

to experience the

northern lights

Cover: Decorative balconies add even

more colour to the historical buildings

of New Orleans in the USA

14 MISSISSIPPI MOMENTS History and culture unfold on

this enriching river voyage across the United States

18 BIG 15 The wildlife to spot on a Galápagos expedition

25 DISCOVER THE GALÁPAGOS We delve into the

highlights of a trip to experience the unique flora and fauna

52 SPIRIT OF THE NORTH Combine epic scenery with

Sámi legends on this iconic Norwegian adventure

58 A TASTE OF FRANCE Cook up a classic French feast

70 THE RHINE, RIVER OF LEGENDS A new series looking

at the world’s great waterways starts with a European favourite

74 MY SYDNEY The beaches, lifestyle and cuisine that

make this city one of the best-loved places on the planet


08 MISSISSIPPI MAGIC An in-depth look at America’s

great waterway to celebrate Viking’s new river voyages

26 CARIBBEAN COOL Travel writer Gabrielle Sander

reports back from her first ocean adventure

36 BRIGHT LIGHTS Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by

her parents as she seeks out the northern lights

32 VIKING JEWELLERY Uncovering the artistry of the age

44 TRUE NORTH We speak to the project curator of the

British Museum’s new exhibition about Arctic culture and climate

46 TOUR DE FORCE Lisa Small goes in search of

enlightenment on Viking’s Grand European Tour

56 A CITY TO SAVOUR What makes Lyon a must-see city

62 THE NORWEGIAN SEA A deep dive into the ocean


6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

7 YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests

16 CASUAL CHIC Mix neutrals and prints for a capsule

wardrobe that transitions from one season to the next

30 CITY GUIDE: MIAMI The self-proclaimed cruise capital

of the world wows with its art deco allure and Latin charm

42 CITY GUIDE: TROMSØ What to see and do in

Norway’s wonderful northern lights hotspot

54 VIKING BOOK CLUB Reads to transport you overseas

66 CITY GUIDE: VIENNA Baroque beauty meets cuttingedge

cool in Austria’s culture-packed capital

68 ON LOCATION WITH KARINE Executive Vice President

Karine Hagen on new ways to stay connected and inspired



Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes”

photographed by Karine in the

Umbrian Countryside



Viking NEWS

A round-up of the latest travel news and

events from the world of Viking


Dear Viking,

Thought you might like to see a copy of

a lovely birthday card I received on my

81st birthday from a grand-daughter.

The “hiking” refers to a job I did for

about 25 years,

leading walking

holidays abroad,


until I was 76!

Now hugely

enjoying being

looked after on

all your splendid

river cruises.


Anne R. Duke


We are excited to announce

that earlier this year, in March,

we launched a dedicated new

digital platform to allow you

to continue exploring the

world with us.

Daily live streaming is

organised into Museum

Mondays, Resident Historian

Tuesdays, Arts & Music


Guest Speaker


At Home at

From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on

her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of

our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen

tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary

horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and

fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.

Highclere Fridays

and Wellness

Weekends. In

addition to this,

there are filmed

messages from

Viking Chairman


2 nd Edition





Torstein Hagen, personal

videos made by onboard crew

and exclusive musical concerts

sent in from our onboard

classical musicians.

You can find recipes from

around the world from our

very own cookbook, The

Kitchen Table, as well as

a special area for children

including quizzes and

colouring activities.

The schedule for

the week ahead is

shared every Monday,

and as a result of the

fantastically positive

reception, Viking.TV

will continue to create

exciting content for

the foreseeable future.

YOUR PHOTOS #MyVikingStory


Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images


I will never forget touching a

wall of the Colosseum, closing

my eyes and listening to history. If

you haven't had an opportunity to

experience this amazing place, do.

Debbie Robles Birdsong


Stretching for 2,350 miles, from

Minnesota's Lake Itasca to the

Gulf of Mexico, our new cruises

on the “Mighty Mississippi” offer

a different type of cross-country

journey for the curious explorer –

one that allows you to be immersed

in American history and culture.

Our three new 8-day itineraries

allow you to travel a section of

the river: Heart of the Delta travels

from New Orleans up to Memphis;

America’s Heartland explores the

Upper Mississippi, and Southern

Celebration is a roundtrip from

New Orleans. Or, over 15-days,

you can explore the length of the

Mississippi, from New Orleans

to St. Paul (or in reverse), on the

America’s Great River journey,

which includes 11 guided tours.

Meanwhile, to complement our

expedition cruises to the Arctic

and Antarctica, our guests will

now be able to join small groups

sailing to the captivating Galápagos

Islands. Featuring fully guided

land excursions, you will explore

Charles Darwin’s living laboratory,

witnessing the archipelago’s unique

wildlife, including giant tortoises,

sea lions, iguanas and penguins.

The 15-day East Galápagos,

Machu Picchu & Peru trip and the

two new 13-day journeys – West

Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru

and Wild Galápagos, Machu

Picchu & Peru – all explore Peruvian

culture, Machu Picchu’s Inca

treasures, as well as the volcanic

coastline of the Galápagos region

and its fascinating flora and fauna.


Clockwise, from top left:

1. One of the most famous bridges not just

in Venice, but in the world. GeofotoF

2. Simply the best, waffles at Mamsen's on

Viking Star. djthomashome

3. Taken just before sunrise. My favourite

day in the Falkland Islands. Carol Stafford

4. They call it an Oreo cow. Photo taken in

the Falkland Islands. dianneinlv

5. Plotting our course through the Alaskan

Inside Passage on Viking Orion in June 2019.


6. Budapest, Hungary. SashaEats

Already booked the Mississippi!

Doing the 15-day America's Great

River. Only way to do it is with

Viking. So looking forward to it.

Ann Robinson Martin

The Riesling soup recipe in The

Kitchen Table cookbook is one

of the best soups I've ever made!

Kathleen Donahue Fowler

We were fortunate enough to

explore Highclere Castle as an

extension of our Prague to Paris

tour...Can't wait to get back to

seeing the world, Viking-style.

Ellie Kopnicky

Viking is a class act!

Jim Seeman

Viking.TV is wonderful. Debbie

Wiseman's composition for

Viking, ‘The Traveller’, is beautiful.

Rickie Cook




This page:

Viking Mississippi

has been purpose

built for this

magical river


As Viking announces its expansion into the American interior, we take a

look at some of the highlights that line the iconic Mississippi waterway





Torstein Hagen,

Chairman of Viking

Clockwise, from

above: An aerial

view of Memphis;

great egrets on

a misty morning;

relax and soak up

the views in the

Explorers’ Lounge

From the headwaters in

Minnesota to its delta in

the Gulf of Mexico, the

Mississippi River stretches

for 2,350 miles and winds through

America’s heartland.

The river was formed when the

last ice age ended, about 10,000

years ago. Water from the melting

ice sheet gathered in a vast network

of north-to-south channels that

carved out the Mississippi Valley.


Native Americans have lived

along the Mississippi’s banks for

thousands of years. First to use the

river for commerce, the earliest

Native Americans established a

network of trade routes; later, large

population centres, including a

metropolis across from presentday

St. Louis called Cahokia,

were formed. And it was the

Algonquian-speaking people

who named the river: Misi-ziibi,

roughly translated as the “Great

River” or “Father of waters”.

American history is bound

with the Mississippi. When the

Revolutionary War ended, the

river became the new nation’s

western border. That changed

in 1803, when the Louisiana

Purchase ceded control of the river

– and the lands west of it – to the

United States. New communities

formed, supported by paddlewheel

steamboats that facilitated

commerce and transportation.

Control of this valuable resource

was critical for both sides during

the Civil War.


Controlling the waterways that

make up the Mississippi has

challenged government leaders

and the Army Corps of Engineers

for more than 100 years. A system

of 29 locks and dams in the Upper

Mississippi help facilitate barge

traffic and regulate water levels.

And on the more heavily trafficked

Lower Mississippi, the river is

restrained by levees and dikes

to help control seasonal flooding.

Today the Mississippi remains

one of the world’s hardest-working

waterways, generating more than

$400 billion in annual revenue,

supporting 1.3 million jobs and

powering local economies. Low

barges transport cotton, grain and

other agricultural products from

the heartland. And revitalised

riverfronts along the Mississippi


No other waterway

has played such an

important role in

the country’s history,

commerce and

culture, which makes

it the perfect setting

for a collection of

exciting new Viking

itineraries which will be launching in 2022.

Growing up in Norway, Torstein Hagen –

the young boy who would one day become

Viking Chairman – was inspired by Tom Sawyer

and Huckleberry Finn’s adventures along the

Mississippi River. And as a result, the area

continued to interest him later in life.

“When I was older and moved to America

during my undergraduate studies, I became

fascinated with the Upper Mississippi and

the Midwest, a region so many Norwegian

immigrants chose as their new home,” says

Mr. Hagen. So it is fitting that Viking guests

will now be able to explore the region.

“These itineraries will offer a different kind of

cross-country journey for the curious explorer –

one that allows you to be immersed in American

history and culture,” adds Mr. Hagen.

From 2022, guests will be able to explore the

Lower Mississippi by joining the 8-day Heart of

the Delta trip, from New Orleans to Memphis,

or the 8-day Southern Celebration roundtrip

from New Orleans. The Upper Mississippi will

be served by the America’s Heartland itinerary,

an 8-day journey from St. Louis to St. Paul.

And for travellers keen to explore the length

of the waterway in its entirety, the epic 15-day

America’s Great River covers the Mississippi

from Minnesota to Louisiana.

In addition to this, a new ship, Viking

Mississippi, inspired by the award-winning Viking

Longships and ocean vessels, will be built in the

United States. Purpose-built for the Mississippi, it

will feature sleek Scandinavian design, spacious

staterooms, al fresco dining areas and extensive

viewing areas, and will cater for 386 guests as

they explore this endlessly-intriguing waterway.




Clockwise, from

far left: A wide

stretch of the

Mississippi River

in Louisiana;

colourful trolleys

are a fun way to

get around in

New Orleans


Discover these picturesque destinations that have flourished and

evolved on the banks of the mighty river

provide new opportunities for

tourism and commercial activities.

This mighty river, with its

unique history, heritage and

culture, offers the ideal backdrop

for a modern era of American

exploration and discovery. Viking’s

state-of-the-art new vessel, Viking

Mississippi, has been designed

specifically for this waterway and

is the perfect home-from-home.


As one of the world’s major river

systems in size, biological activity

and habitat diversity, it is called

the “Mighty Mississippi” for

good reason. Bisecting America’s

heartland, it serves as a natural

border for 10 states and is home to

360 species of fish, 326 species of

birds, 145 species of amphibians

and 50 species of mammals.

With an abundance of

migratory and year-round wildlife,

ornithologists will love the range

of birds to spot. The upper portion

of the river is home to beavers and

pelicans and the delta area features

many endangered species such as

the Louisiana black bear, the green

sea turtle and piping plover, a small

sand-coloured coastal bird. And

secluded swamps are the perfect

place to spot alligators.


The river’s cultural legacy has

inspired artists and writers such as

Maya Angelou, Tennessee Williams

and Mark Twain, whose depictions

of the Mississippi are a constant

companion to his iconic hero,

Huckleberry Finn.

In his memoir about life as a

steamboat pilot on the Mississippi

River before the American Civil

War, Twain observed, ‘it is not a

commonplace river, but on the

contrary is in all ways remarkable’.

The concept of the river as a

symbol of freedom and liberty has

continued and is a theme running

through many novels and historical

non-fiction books today.

Unique culinary traditions are

also bountiful, from barbecue in

St. Louis and Memphis, to Cajun

and Creole in New Orleans. There

are food options to delight every

palate, and the welcoming fare is at

the core of Mississippi culture and

heritage. The community nature

of the cuisine is evident in the

number of heirloom recipes and

family-run restaurants.

And the river’s impact on

American music styles – including

Delta blues, jazz, gospel, country,

folk and rock and roll – can be felt

deep in the soul of the music which

continues to evolve and delight.

From 2022, Viking will operate a

range of 8-day Mississippi river




Capital of Louisiana, Baton Rouge

paints a historic picture on the

Mississippi’s eastern bank. Its

remarkable cultural diversity is

displayed in Cajun and Creole

music, cuisine and arts.


Burlington grew into an economic

powerhouse with the arrival of

steamboats and the railroad.

Today, it is home to numerous

historic buildings including the

art deco Capitol Theatre.


The Lower Mississippi region is

dotted with historic mansions,

and Darrow is your gateway to

these National Historic Landmarks

renowned for their noted

architecture and landscaping.


Dubuque is often called the

“Masterpiece on the Mississippi”

for its 19th-century ingenuity and

modern-day cultural evolution.


Hannibal is the birthplace and

childhood home of Samuel

Langhorne Clemens, or Mark

Twain, and the inspiration for his

beloved stories of Tom Sawyer

and Huckleberry Finn.


La Crosse enjoys a deep connection

to the towering bluffs and rolling

farmland of its Norskedalen,

where a Norwegian immigrant

population carved out a unique

culture over generations.


Memphis is the celebrated

birthplace of Memphis blues, a

centre of civil rights history and

home to Elvis Presley’s Graceland.


Natchez is home to one of the

highest concentrations of historic

Southern estates in the world;

more than 200 perfectly preserved

homes line its broad avenues.


Birthplace of American jazz, historic

New Orleans exudes a festive

atmosphere, especially in the French

Quarter. The city’s French, African

and other influences flavour its

vibrant culture and Creole cuisine.


Straddling the confluence of

the Mississippi and Rock Rivers,

the Quad Cities area rests amid

“America’s Breadbasket” – the

nation’s most expansive and

scenic agricultural region.


Red Wing, known for its

American-made shoes and

pottery, has a history of farming

skills and craftsmanship brought

by its New England, German, Irish

and Scandinavian immigrants.


Originally built on a narrow ridge

overlooking the Mississippi, today

St. Francisville boasts more than

140 buildings on the National

Register of Historic Places.


Crossroads for 19th-century

explorers, St. Louis is home to rich

architectural treasures including

the iconic Gateway Arch.


A base for westward settlers

heading to the Dakotas, St. Paul

is now a modern metropolis and

the capital of Minnesota.


Vicksburg National Military Park

commemorates the historic site of

the Civil War’s most pivotal battle.

The small town is the epitome of

Southern heritage and charm.

Clockwise, from

top left: Neon

lights in the

French Quarter

of New Orleans;

Jambalaya is a

culinary highlight;

the iconic Gateway

Arch stands out

in the St. Louis






History and culture unfold as you cross the USA from

north to south on this enriching river voyage

Above: The

downtown skyline

of Minneapolis


Arrive in St. Paul and transfer to your ship before

exploring the city and its acclaimed arts scene.


Enjoy the scenic landscape of the Mississippi as you sail

to Red Wing, the city named after a celebrated Sioux

chief whose red-dyed swan wing indicated his rank.


Explore La Crosse with its architectural landmarks and

statue-lined riverfront or opt for a trip to rural Decorah.


Cruising the serpentine route of the Lower Mississippi,

witness an astonishing array of picturesque scenery.


The ‘Queen City of the South’ is the birthplace of

Memphis blues. Discover the music, cuisine and buzz

of Beale Street and a tour of Elvis Presley’s Graceland.


Enjoy another full day of scenic cruising; it’s the chance

to participate in a cooking demo or attend a lecture.



Dubbed the ‘Masterpiece on the Mississippi’, this city

immediately conjures up the great Steamboat Era.


Straddling the Mississippi and Rock Rivers, the Quad

Cities area sits amid ‘America’s Breadbasket’.


A Burlington tour reveals the city’s historic downtown

and Snake Alley – ‘the crookedest street in the world’.


This community is best known as the birthplace of

author Mark Twain and the setting of his Adventures of

Tom Sawyer and Adventures of Huckleberry Finn books.


Immerse yourself in the ‘Gateway to the West’ with

its diverse array of architectural treasures.


Feel the Southern tradition that flows through

Vicksburg’s veins as you uncover its rich Civil War

history and Southern heritage and charm.


Natchez boasts an array of historic Southern mansions

and is the perfect place to enjoy small-town America.


Arrive in Baton Rouge, set on the eastern bank of the

Mississippi River, and take a panoramic city tour.


After breakfast, you’ll be escorted to the airport for

your return flight.

A 15-day 2023 America’s Great River journey,

from St. Paul to New Orleans, or in reverse,

starts from £9,590pp.





2022 Viking river cruises now on sale.

Eight days from £1,495pp

With the world’s largest fleet of innovative river ships – including our multi-awardwinning

Viking Longships – only Viking can promise you more. More comfort, more

quality, more style and more choice of cruises across Europe, Russia and Asia. Relax in

spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous, destination-inspired food

and thoughtfully selected wines. Explore the cultures and customs of the places you

visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.


P Return scheduled flights from London

and a choice of up to 14 regional airports

at no extra cost

P River-view stateroom

P All meals on board including wine, beer

and soft drinks with lunch and dinner

P Free Wi-Fi on board (connection speed

may vary)

P An included excursion in almost

every port

P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time

on board

P All port charges, government taxes

and overseas transfers

P Onboard gratuities


Portugal’s River of Gold

10 days, 8 guided tours

Departing March to November 2022

From £2,195pp

Lyon & Provence

8 days, 7 guided tours

Departing March to November 2022

From £1,595pp

Rhine Getaway

8 days, 6 guided tours

Departing March to December 2022

From £1,495pp

Grand European Tour

15 days, 12 guided tours

Departing April to November 2022

From £3,095pp

Romantic Danube

8 days, 5 guided tours

Departing April to December 2022

From £1,595pp

Passage to Eastern Europe

11 days, 7 guided tours

Departing March to November 2022

From £2,045pp

Châteaux, Rivers & Wine

8 days, 7 guided tours

Departing March to November 2022

From £1,595pp

Elegant Elbe

10 days, 7 guided tours

Departing March to November 2022

From £2,095pp

Paris & the Heart of Normandy

8 days, 6 guided tours

Departing May to December 2022

From £1,945pp

Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest

12 days, 9 guided tours

Departing May to October 2022

From £2,995pp

Waterways of the Tsars

13 days, 10 guided tours

Departing May to October 2022

From £3,095pp

Pharoahs & Pyramids

12 days, 11 guided tours

Departing January to December 2022

From £4,665pp

Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person

and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates

in 2022. Single supplements apply. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at

the passengers own expense. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit

vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

VC_EM_River_Multi_v2.indd 1 18/05/2020 14:45:56

Floppy hat



Tote bag



Patterned kaftan tunic

Accessorize, £40

Drop earrings

Oliver Bonas, £29.50

Hoop earrings

Oliver Bonas, £24


and for men...

Nautical blues work well

both at home and on holiday

Knitted polo shirt

Marks & Spencer, £35

Denim shirt dress

(from a selection

at Bonprix)

For women...

Build a capsule wardrobe with a

combination of neutrals and prints

Messenger bag

Burton, £40

Saddle bag

Marks & Spencer,


Shirt dress

Monsoon, £60



Invest in simple pieces that transition

from one season to the next

Knitted top

Oliver Bonas, £49.50

Shirt dress

Marks & Spencer, £59

Linen shorts

Marks & Spencer, £29

Printed shirt

FatFace, £45

Panama hat

Marks & Spencer, £49

Chinos and t-shirt

(from a selection at FatFace)

Summer jacket

White Stuff, £65


straw bag

Accessorize, £40

Braided belt

Dune, £22

Denim culottes

White Stuff, £55

Deck shoes

Dune, £85

Relaxed blouse

Hobbs, £110

Comfy trainers

Marks & Spencer, £35

Woven flats

Dune, £85

Casual trousers

Monsoon, £45

Shirt & holdall

(from a selection

at Barbour)




The Galápagos Giant

Tortoise is a famous

resident of the

archipelago, with the

name ‘Galápagos’ actually derived

from the old Spanish word for

tortoise. Arriving from South

America around 2-3 million years

ago, they morphed out into 15

different species. The conservation

status of the giant tortoise is

endangered, particularly after

the death of Lonesome George

in 2012, the last Pinta tortoise,

and now 10 live on the island.

The tortoise can be divided into

two main shell types, (domed and

saddle-backed), and both spend a

laidback life of around 16 hours a

day resting, and eating grass, fruit

and cactus pads.

BIG 15


Our pick of the Big 15 creatures to spot whilst on a

voyage with Viking around the Galápagos Islands



The Galápagos albatross is the

largest bird in Galápagos with

a spectacular wingspan of up to

two and a half metres. Known

for a brilliant yellow and almost

comedic bill that appears too

large for their bodies, beady eyes

and a white breast, they are also

nicknamed ‘the waved albatross’

due to the wave-like pattern on

their wings. Living high above the

open waters of the surrounding

ocean, the birds are fabulous

gliders, but migrate around

Colombia, Peru and Galápagos

during the non-breeding and

chick-rearing periods. Look out for

their fascinating courtship dance.


Named for their distinctive blue webbed feet and

coming from the Spanish word, ‘bobo’, meaning

foolish, the blue footed booby is a much-loved marine

bird native to subtropical regions of the eastern Pacific

Ocean. During mating rituals, the male birds shows

off their feet to potential mates with a high-step strut.

The bluer the feet, the more attractive the mate! The

booby also begins by presenting the female with a small

stone. It is clear why the loveable bird fascinated Darwin

during his 1835 Galápagos trip, with their loveable

clumsiness on land and their agile swooping in the air.

Research suggests that they have suffered large declines

in recent years, with an estimated population of just

6,400 birds in 2012. It is thought that this decline is

related to a decline in clupeid fish, especially sardines,

which the boobies need in large quantities.





Distinguished by its bluey-purple

rainbow-like beak and bright red

feet, the red-footed booby is the

smallest of the boobies. This seabird

doesn’t migrate like its siblings, and

lives year-round in tropical regions,

but has an impressive ability to fly,

travelling up to 90 miles in search of

food. They hunt together, and have

evolved to be able to snare flying fish

from the air, or cleverly wrap their

long wings around their bodies,

enabling them to plunge into the

water to hunt in search of fish.


Noted for its long, humorous whiskers and slicked-back

silvery fur, the Galápagos seal spends an idle life resting in

the shade on the coastline, saving its reserves for hunting

at night. Not to be mistaken for a Galápagos sea lion,

they are far smaller with protruding eyes that make them

excellent hunters – they are still able to keep a watchful

eye out for sharks while seeking out their prey. They also

avoid diving for food when a full moon is out, as they are

more visible to sharks and their prey tends to move into

deeper waters during this period of the lunar cycle.



This fascinating species of

seabird is one to look out for

and is of particular interest to

visitors to the Galápagos Islands

because of its curious inability

to fly. This means the species stays in the region

year-round, occasionally diving to the ocean

floor to hunt for food. According to scientific

research, the bird has genetic anomalies which

are also common among humans with rarer

skeletal problems, meaning a gene mutation

has left their short wings totally redundant,

apart from helping them balance when hopping

between rocks on the shoreline. Look out for

flightless cormorant’s circular courtship dance.



Lizards are often spotted on Galápagos,

but this large lizard in particular thrives on

the arid and dry areas of the islands. This type

of lizard is characterised by the yellow white

hue of its skin, with patches of black and brown.

They have powerful legs and claws and look slightly

intimidating as they scuttle along the shoreline, but

they are mostly herbivore, enjoying prickly pear and fruit

over other food. The population has undergone a drastic

decline over recent years, but finches help them along the

way, picking ticks from between their scales. Females travel far

and wide to find the ideal nesting place to bury their eggs.



Standing out from the crowd, the

American Flamingo is well known

for its fluorescent pink feathers

and long neck. Galápagos is home

to a few hundred of this particular

species, breeding in the archipelago

and across the Caribbean, although

the Galápagos version is significantly

smaller than its Caribbean cousins,

with smaller eggs. The bird is loved

for its dramatic pink plumage and

has inky black-tipped wings only

visible in light. The colouring is down

to their diet, and all flamingos have

evolved an impressive way of feeding,

shuffling their feet to disturb the

ground before picking up their food

with heads upside down in the water.

In Galápagos, American flamingos can

be found in lagoons close to beaches,

but are difficult to spot. Look out for

them from March to July when they

nest and when they begin foraging.


Another member of the booby

family, the Nazca booby differs

in appearance from its famous

blue-footed sibling, with long

yellow or orange beaks and a

slightly larger size. You can spot

the Nazca booby high above the

ocean, where they hover from

heights of up to 30 metres before

spectacularly plunge-diving into

the waters off the coast to catch

their prey. Their diets are mostly

made up of small fish, but they

also have an appetite for flying

fish, squid and anchovies.







This particular type of

penguin is the most

northerly found penguin

and one of the smallest

in the world. Located

only on the Galápagos

Islands, they are best spotted living right up on the

northern tip of Isabela Island and make their homes

by burrowing in the caves and crevices in the coastal

lava. They are particularly agile underwater and

have an impressive swimming capacity, reaching

speeds of 35 km per hour when hunting for

cold-water schooling fish to eat. Galápagos

penguins are a loyal breed and mate for life,

with the female laying between one and two

eggs which hatch into dark brown chicks.



Endemic to Sante Fe Island in

Galápagos, this is a rarer subspecies

of the land iguana. Unlike the other

land iguanas roaming the rest of the

Galápagos, this particular iguana is a

paler yellow with a longer snout. Its

more obscure colouring allows the

Santa Fe land iguana to blend in with

its surroundings, making it a hard target

for predators, and for tourists, to spot.

As a cold-blooded creature, it absorbs

heat from the sunshine and at night

carves burrows to capture the heat.

A critically endangered animal, your

best chance to see them in the wild is

from the island of Espanola between

April to June when eggs are laid.



This curious creature is the only lizard in the world to be able to live and forage

for prey at sea thanks to their powerful claws that grip onto rocks. Endemic to

the region, there are six variations of this particular species that can be found

dotted across different Galápagos Islands, some larger than others and some with

different mating rituals, where they turn different colours, from reds and bright

greens to red and black. In the mornings they can be found enjoying the


sunshine and absorbing the sun’s rays to give them energy for their long swims.


The mating season spans from January to March.


An excellent predator and hunter, the

Galápagos hawk is closely related to the

red-backed and white-tailed hawks. One

of the world’s rarest raptors, they have a

vulnerable conservation status but are an

impressive spot if you manage to catch

one, with an adult having a wingspan of

120cm. Adults can be recognised by their

dark feathers, chicks by their pale plumage,

and the females are larger than their male

counterparts. Famed as scavengers across

the island, they feed off carcasses using their

strong beaks for pecking.




A common sight on the Galápagos

Islands, the Galápagos sea lion is

widespread along the coast. Often found lazing on

the shoreline, swimming just off the coast, and,

thanks to their pelvic girdle, they can be spotted

exhibiting their charismatic gallop at a surprisingly

fast speed. They primarily breed in Galápagos and

so it is from here that you can witness their sexual

dimorphism first-hand. Males weigh a dramatic fourtimes

that of females and use this size advantage to

maintain territorial dominance, mating with various

females by keeping hold of land. The mating season

happens between July and December.

Dubbed ‘the condor of the oceans’

by Charles Darwin because of their

impressive ability to spend days at

a time out at sea, and with their

dramatic wingspan, this seabird

certainly lives up to its name.

It’s the shape of this curious bird

that gives them exceptional aerial

manoeuvrability and allows them

to glide. They are also nick-named

‘pirate birds’ because of their habit

of stealing food from other birds

including the beloved boobies and

forcing them to regurgitate their

food by shaking their tail feathers

vigorously. The bird’s main aesthetic

attribute is its large red throat pouch

which inflates during breeding season

with the hope of attracting a mate.



Explore the Great Lakes and Canada,

on expedition ships designed for discovery

The Great Lakes are an undiscovered treasure, boasting stunning national parks,

in a region that is rich in culture and history.

Here, you can experience a deep connection to nature in a genuinely remote wilderness.

Watch for wildlife, from bald eagles to moose, grey wolves, bears and beavers. Reach across

cultures with the First Nations’ people. Hike through pristine forests, and glide silently by

kayak across Georgian Bay – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Discover Canada’s colonial past

and beautiful lakeshores. Visit the majestic Niagara Falls, all accompanied by expert guides.

Viking offers a choice of inspiring new journeys around the Great Lakes, as well as voyages to

the Arctic and Antarctica.

To enable you to best explore the Great Lakes, we have assembled a world-class expedition

team to lead you on engaging shore landings and esteemed scientific partnerships to deliver

enriching programmes.

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis are home to just 378 guests

and guild on our legacy of exploration with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we

are new taking bookings for our 2022 itineraries. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard

an expedition ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

VC_Oceans_Lakes_Jan2020_A4_v6.indd 1 18/05/2020 15:43:43


Andean adventure

Uncover the mysteries of South America’s most captivating

destinations on this immersive cruise-and-stay adventure

Above: Tick

Machu Picchu off

your bucket list on

a Viking voyage

DAY 1 & 2 / LIMA, PERU

Arrive in Lima and settle into your hotel. The following

day, discover the capital’s colonial centre, the Baroque

Lima Cathedral and the Palace of the Archbishop.


Fly into the Sacred Valley and immerse yourself in local

life. On day four hike to the ruins at Ollantaytambo, see

Moray’s crop circle and admire the salt pans at Maras.


An exciting rail journey through the Andean hills awaits

today. Alight in Aguas Calientes and continue on to

Machu Picchu, the iconic lost city of the Incas.


Explore more of Machu Picchu on a hike or take a tour

of a nearby tea plantation. In the afternoon, transfer

via train to Cuzco, the historic capital of the Inca.



Visit the Cerro Colorado Tortoise Breeding Center, then

cruise to Punta Pitt to see blue-footed boobies.



Seek out the primeval-looking Santa Fe land iguana

before cruising to South Plaza Island in the afternoon.



A fascinating trip to the Charles Darwin Research

Station is followed by lunch at a local farm.



Keep an eye out today for Española mockingbirds, lava

lizards, Darwin’s three finches and marine iguanas.



Visit wonderful sites like Cuzco Cathedral, the Temple

of Koricancha and the fortress of Sacsayhuamán.


Catch a flight to Guayaquil, the gateway to the

Galápagos Islands and a vibrant riverside city.



Embark the 90-guest ship Santa Cruz II and cruise to

Mosquera Islet for a chance to spot sea lions.




Kayak or snorkel around the marine-rich coast of Eden

Islet. More wildlife awaits on North Seymour Island.



Disembark in Baltra before flying home from Quito.

The 15-day 2021 & 2022 East Galápagos, Machu

Picchu & Peru voyage starts from £8,790pp.



This page, from

left to right: Key

West in Florida;

Cuban influences

are everywhere in

the Florida Keys




Travel writer and river cruising fan

Gabrielle Sander reports back from

her first ocean adventure


It is a year since I took my

first cruise; an eight-day trip

along the Rhine, from Basel to

Amsterdam, on board Viking

Eir. It’s one I’ve waxed lyrical about

to many since, as well as in this very

magazine. Aside from introducing

me to a generous and picturesque

portion of Western Europe,

it opened my eyes to a way of

travelling I’d previously filed under

‘things to do when I retire’.

I fell in love with the ease of

sailing from one port to the next; a

new town, city or country each day.

Such a romantic, easy way to travel.

Country-hopping without having

to hire a car, board planes, or lug a

suitcase onto different trains.

It helped that my vessel was sleek

and smooth-sailing (sometimes I’d

look out the window just to see if

we were actually moving); quiet,

with only 190 passengers, and lowlevel,

so we could cruise close to

land and dock moments from the

sightseeing action. It also helped

that everything was on point, from

the initial welcome to the smooth

operation of the excursions, and

sweet touches such as the plump

strawberries left in our stateroom

one morning. Just like that, my

love of cruising was sparked.

So, when it came to joining

my first Viking ocean cruise –

Turquoise Caribbean Seas, starting

and finishing in Miami – I was

excited, but also unsure whether

I’d enjoy it as much: how would

the cosy nature of the ship work

on a larger scale, and would the

personable nature of the river cruise

translate to an ocean cruise?

Well, that hesitation passed

within five minutes of boarding

Viking Sky. The welcome,

the sunny spaces and cool








Download the Viking

Voyager app. Not only

is it an easy way to

keep track of activities

and excursions, but

you can use your

headphones to follow

the Viking Art Guide,

a self-guided tour of

the artwork on board.

An apple a day

keeps the doctor

away, as the adage

goes. Green apples

are also packed

with vitamins,

antioxidants and

fibre. You’ll find

bowls of them at

Guest Services.

Clockwise from

above: Lamanai

Mayan Ruins in

Belize; dine al

fresco as the

sun sets; the

impressive Fort

Jefferson in

Florida; afternoon

tea served in the


Scandinavian décor – it was all

comfortingly familiar, but bigger

and beautifully finished. Rather

than taking a couple of days to

unwind into my temporary home,

as is often the case when I travel,

I relaxed immediately. It is of

course a much larger vessel than

the Viking Longship on which

I traversed the Rhine, and at

full 930-guest capacity, is home

to considerably more people.

However, with plenty of indoor

and outdoor nooks to lounge in, it

never felt busy, except the queue for

the ice-cream at lunchtime, which

is a given. It is very good ice-cream!

The Explorers’ Lounge featured

drawers of curiosities to pull open

and peruse and the Atrium, with

hundreds of books lining the

shelves, offered up the novel I’ve

been meaning to read for ages,

travel tales and foodie tomes to

thumb through. Like the river

cruise, the library is curated to suit

the audience and destinations.

I sampled the various places to

eat and drink, all free from the set

time slots and group tables that are

experienced on other ocean cruises.

That I could rock up at Italian

restaurant Manfredi’s at 7.30pm,

book in hand, and enjoy a plate

of their freshly-rolled gnocchi al

gorgonzola at a table for one if I so

pleased, was bliss. That there was

also ample opportunity to chat

to fellow guests, say, in the buzzy

Wintergarden during afternoon tea,

was equally lovely. As solitary or

sociable as you want it.

I continued my ship recce,

checking out the LivNordic Spa,

which looked straight out of the

pages of a wellness magazine,

and includes a Snow Grotto that

dumps fresh powder daily to

melt onto your limbs before

and after the sauna (a great

circulation-booster). There was

also a sea-facing, floor-to-ceiling

windowed gym, an outdoor

infinity pool and hot tub at the

back of the ship, without the rowdy

pool bar, that would usually put me

off. The cinema, where the smell

of popcorn wafts beckoningly

around movie start time, offers

the latest blockbusters.

Getting acquainted with the ship

on that inaugural walk around, my

first thought was, ‘wow, this place

is amazing – like a floating 5-star

hotel’; my second: ‘how am I going

to find time to enjoy it all?’


It’s almost as if the Viking gods

heard this and summoned an extra

sea day. That first afternoon, not

long after boarding in Miami,

the captain announced that our

planned port stop, Key West,

scheduled for the next morning,

had been cancelled. The seas were

too rough for us to dock safely,

so we were heading straight to

planned port two, Belize, with

two days at sea in between.

The conch train tour of

Key West and visit to Ernest

Hemingway’s former home,

with its polydactyl cats, would have

to wait. It was an unfortunate yet

understandable blip, but it

did mean more time to enjoy

the sleek Scandi playground, the

sunshine on deck, coffee and cake

at Mamsen’s, or the superb display

of original art, including a

large collection of Edvard Munch.

I enjoyed a Nordic Hair Ritual,

a blissful 80 minutes involving

exquisitely-scented Swedish

products featuring cloudberries

and blueberries.

Those sea days passed in

a blissfully laid-back bubble

starting with sunrise laps along

the promenade and ending with

sundowners and early dinners.

Then, with a burst of colour

came our arrival into Belize. The

itinerary was back on track, with

Cozumel, Merida and the Gulf of

Mexico, providing the views and

entertainment over the final days.

As for the missed stop, we were

thrilled when our captain made a

surprise call into Key West on the

loop back to Miami.

Hidden behind

bright orange

doors at Manfredi’s

is a private dining

room. Anyone can

book and have

dinner in there,

at no additional

charge. Perfect for

special occassions.

Don’t miss our sushi

and seafood bar

in the World Café.

You can pick from

a variety of freshly

prepared sushi and

crab. Plus, an Asian

wok station adds

to the international

flavours on offer.

The enrichment

talks with visiting

historians and

other experts are

usually in the

afternoon. But

you can catch-up

later, at a time that

suits you, via your

stateroom TV.





Self-proclaimed cruise capital of the world,

travellers flock to Miami to soak up the sunshine,

art deco architecture and Latin American

influenced culture

Since the 1950s, when

wealthy Cubans escaped

Fidel Castro’s revolution,

Miami has been a beacon

for Hispanic people,

earning its nickname the ‘Capital

of Latin America’. A tour of Little

Havana is a must and will help

you find the highlights, such as the

Cubaocho Museum & Performing

Arts Center – a gallery and bar

dedicated to the history of Cuba.

Next up head to the Wynwood

neighbourhood to see the incredible

street art on the famous Wynwood

Walls. In the evening visit the

Bayside Marketplace for views of

the city’s iconic skyline and port.

At Miami Beach, cycle along

the renowned Ocean Drive taking

in art deco hotels and apartments,

or join a walking tour of the art

deco district around South Beach.

Relax on the beautiful white sands

or amble along the Miami Beach

Boardwalk to appreciate the ocean

view away from the buzz of traffic.

Historic, Spanish-inspired Espanola

Way, a pedestrianised street

thronging with the Miami vibe, is a

lively place to visit in the evening.

Don’t miss

•Built in 1916, Vizcaya Museum

and Gardens is a mansion built

in the Italian Renaissance style.

Wander in the formal gardens and

fountains, and enjoy the original

artwork and furnishings inside.

•Stroll out to the tip of South

Pointe Park Pier for fabulous views

of Downtown Miami’s skyline and

the gleaming South Beach. Go in

the late afternoon and linger for the

sunset before heading to Collins

Avenue for drinks and to experience

that famous Miami nightlife.

•Miami has the third tallest

skyline in the US, so why not jump

on board the free Metromover

monorail for a tour through

the impressive skyscrapers of

Downtown. South of here is the

pretty and popular Bayfront Park.

•The Art Basel fair hosts a huge

range of modern and contemporary

art across the city every September,

but works from the likes of Andy

Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat,

Cindy Sherman, Jeff Koons and

Damien Hirst at the impressive

Rubell Family Collection can be

enjoyed year round.

•Lincoln Road is a must-visit

for travellers into shopping and

culture. Architect Morris Lapidus

redesigned the street in the 1960s

giving it a unique style. Now a

pedestrian hub, it bustles with

people enjoying the sculptures,

fountains, theatres and art galleries.

Clockwise, from

above: Miami’s

South Beach has

over 800 art deco

buildings; one of

the city’s iconic

lifeguard huts

Fast Facts

•Miami was an obscure swampland

before visionary Julia Tuttle

inherited land in the southern

Florida backwater and took up

residence here in 1891. Through

her contacts she was responsible for

the arrival of the railroad.

•Miami gets its name from the

Mayaimi tribe who lived here in the

16th and 17th centuries.

•Miami has the second largest

number of Spanish speakers in

the US, and 70% of inhabitants

are of Hispanic origin.

•Locals enjoy cafecito (Cuban

coffee) served from walk-up

ventanitas windows. Try one

yourself for a strong, sweet hit.

•Man-made Neptune Memorial

Reef, near Biscayne Bay, is an

artistic replica of the Lost City of

Atlantis. You can even go diving.

•Look out for one of the many

annual street festivals and parades.


Insider Tips


Head north to the often

overlooked Museum of

Art and Design housed in

the Freedom Tower, a 1925

masterpiece built in the

Mediterranean revival

style and arguably a work

of art itself.


No trip to Florida is

complete without trying

some Key Lime Pie. For a

slice of the best, head to

Joe’s Stone Crab which,

trading in the city since

1913, is now something of

a Miami institution.


From Miami Beach to South

Miami, there are plenty

of local area marinas to

visit. Each one has its own

identity, and many offer

waterside restaurants,

perfect for watching the

world go by.


Miami’s splendid Ancient

Spanish Monastery recalls

the city’s past as a Spanish

territory. It was built in

Spain in the 12th century,

disassembled and brought

to Miami by newspaper mogul

William Randolph Hearst.






An intricate cultural history

In celebration of our Norwegian heritage, we take a closer look at

the traditional skills and artistry shown in these intricate designs



from left: The

earliest jewellery

style is named

after the famous

Oseberg ship; an

ornamental silver

brooch, used here

to fasten a cloak

The Vikings were much

more than legendary

seafaring explorers.

A closer look at their

jewellery reveals a high level of

artistic skill and a fascinating

design vocabulary

that evolved over

the duration of the

Viking Era, which

historians agree is

roughly the period

from 789-1066 AD.

The high volume of fine silver

jewellery recovered from burial

hordes across Europe suggests that

silver coinage obtained through

trade was melted down and used

as adornments. Worn by men and

women, these indicated social status

and wealth, and may also have

functioned as amulets.

As the Viking Age progressed,

the style of the designs changed.

Historians generally classify Viking

artefacts into six styles named

after the area where a pivotal

decorative object was unearthed.

The majority of the artefacts are made of

metal and stone, although rarer items made

of bone and wood have been preserved

Throughout the time period, design

styles sometimes co-existed side

by side or were even combined in

a single piece and some artefacts

demonstrate a melding of Viking

designs with those of other cultures.

The earliest recognisable

style, dating to the 9th century,

is known as Oseberg style and

features sinuous animal forms

and a gripping beast motif – a

hallmark design element that

appears well into the next century.

The style’s name references the

famous Oseberg ship, found in a

large burial mound

in Norway, which is

currently on display

at the Viking Ship

Museum in Oslo.

From the late

9th century and

continuing to the middle of the

10th century, a new set of designs

known as Borre style emerges. We

continue to see the gripping beast,

but the once-sinuous feel of the

Oseberg creatures has shifted to

triangular-headed animals with

round eyes and protruding ears.

Named for a set of bridle mounts




recovered from a ship burial site in

Borre, Norway, this style appears

to be purely Norse, and shows up

in finds from countries including

Iceland, Russia and England.

Jelling style, from the 10th

century, is named after the two

massive carved runestones found

in Jelling, Denmark. The carvings

on these huge rocks feature stylistic

S-shaped, intertwined animal forms

with profiled heads and spiral hips

as well as pigtails.

The decorated stones were

commissioned by two kings as

memorials – King Gorm the Old

honoured his wife, Thyra, and

his son, Harald Bluetooth, raised

the larger stone in memory of his

parents, his conquest of Denmark

and Norway, and his conversion

of the Danes to Christianity. The

patterns were much copied, and

appeared on decorative items

throughout this period.

Developing out of the Jelling

style, the Mammen style was

prominent in the last half of

the 10th century, and features

naturalistic lions, birds, snakes and

foliate elements. The style is named

after an axe head found in a burial

site in Mammen, in Denmark.

The first half of the 11th century

is represented by Ringerike style

– an era in which standing stones

were often carved featuring curvy,

thin animals such as lion-like beasts

with almond-shaped eyes and thin,

long tendrils on plant motifs and

leafy, floral patterns.

Finally, from 1050 to the 12th

century, Urnes style becomes

regarded as the ultimate expression

of Viking art. Named after the

carvings that adorn the northern

gate of the Urnes stave church in

Norway, this style boasts sinous,

interlaced and interwoven animals

with long eyes, serpent-like

creatures, and plants.

The majority of artefacts related

to these chronological phases of

Scandinavian jewellery art are

made of metal or stone, although

some rarer items fashioned from

bone, wood, ivory and even textiles,

have also been preserved. Ongoing

archaeological finds continue to

add to our understanding of this

fascinating evolution of style

and craftsmanship.

Clockwise, from

above: Bunads

(national folk

costumes) are

adorned with

traditional Viking

jewellery; motifs

and forms used for

figureheads also

appear in Viking




10th century, Skane, Sweden

This clean-lined, elegant pendant is an

anthropomorphic Thor’s hammer. The

powerful god of thunder, Thor was one of

the primary characters in Norse mythology

and his hammer form appears frequently

throughout the Viking Age.


10th century, Vårby Hoard, Sweden

This disc-shaped pin from one of Sweden’s

most magnificent hoards is loaded with

ornamentation, complete with faces and

entwined knots. These brooches appear to

be an eastern Scandinavian phenomenon,

used to fasten women’s cloaks.


11-12th century, Gotland, Sweden

Viking artisans played the smoothness

of rock crystal spheres off against the

knubby texture of tiny granulated dots to

beautiful effect in this necklace. It shows

the continued use of granulation – tiny

little dots created by heating metal until it

clings to itself forming a ball – which is a

consistent technique in Viking jewellery.

The evolution of


These beautiful examples of jewellery dating to the Viking Age

demonstrate the progression of techniques and design


circa 900 AD, Birka, Sweden

Dragon head pins have been found

throughout the historic Viking world, and

are similar to iconic carved Viking ship

figureheads. A soapstone casting mold

for a similar pin was found in Sweden,

suggesting that they could be reproduced.


9-10th century

Borre-style jewellery features interlacing

knots or animals, like this version’s

“gripping beast”design. The style was

named after a group of harness mounts

recovered from a ship grave

near Borre, Norway.


late 9th century, Tipperary, Ireland

This pin demonstrates the melding of

Irish and Viking influences. The use of

quality silver (rare in Ireland, but accessible

through trade to the Vikings) and amber

from the Baltic are distinctly Viking, yet

the gold filigree work, abstract patterns

and Book of Kells-like animals are basic

to the Irish visual vocabulary.


9th century, Hatteberg, Norway

The penannular form is a very old style of

brooch worn by both men and women.

This example demonstrates Celtic

influence, but the pin is Nordic in origin,

suggesting that Viking Age artisans were

familiar with styles across the North Sea.


10-11th century, Gnezdovo, Russia

This crescent pendant with elaborate

granulation work, a woman’s adornment,

is from one of the major Varangian

centres in Kievan Rus territory along

the trade route from Scandinavia

to the Byzantium.


circa 1100 AD, Tröllaskógur, Iceland

This brooch epitomises late Urnes Style

in its sinuous, interwoven loops. Depicting

a group of stylised, entwined serpentlike

creatures with elongated eyes, it

demonstrates the sophisticated styling of

the late Viking Age through its interplay

of writhing forms counterpointed

against the negative space.





Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by her parents

on an adventure to the Arctic Circle in a bid to

witness the northern lights

This page:

The northern

lights glow


over the Lofoten

Islands in Norway


My fasther (John, 69) and I have been

talking about a trip to the Arctic for

the past decade, but my mother

(Carole, 70) has dodgy knees so we

did not think such a physically demanding expedition

would be possible.

However, when I learned that Viking was cruising

up the coast of Norway looking for the northern lights

it seemed an ideal solution, giving us all the chance

to be as adventurous or relaxed as we felt like.

Our 13-day journey would begin in Bergen, then

cross the Arctic circle to Narvik before venturing

further up to the world’s most northerly city, Alta. The

return would see us pass through Tromsø, Bodø and

Stavanger, before sailing home to Tilbury in London.

On the first day, I spent a peaceful evening sipping

bellinis in the beautiful Explorers’ Lounge, while

my parents arrived on board later that evening to

Yet even without the northern lights the scenery is

spectacular. We left Bergen on a sunny afternoon after

spending a relaxing morning listening to a piano recital

at the home of Edvard Grieg, and our first chance to

explore the sleepy snow-dusted Arctic wilderness came

at Narvik, the little shipping port which saw the first

victory against the Nazis in the Second World War.

My dad and I chose to visit the nearby 110-acre

Polar Park, home to lynx, wolverine, brown bears,

musk ox, elk and, most excitingly, wolves. Wolves

that can be petted.

So on a bitterly cold January morning, we found

ourselves kneeling in their enclosure, gloveless and

hatless (wolves will pilfer anything that isn’t firmly

attached to your body) awaiting the pack.

Sadly the wolves seemed uninterested in hanging

out with a semi-circle of shivering humans, but

luckily the keeper had a trick up her sleeve.

Opposite: Sarah

Knapton’s holiday

photos capture

the essence of

Norway in winter,

from dramatic

mountain scenery

and fjords to

majestic reindeers

and multi-coloured

wooden houses

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a frozen river

we were served a warming bowl of reindeer stew

be greeted by welcoming glasses of champagne and

reviving soup and cold-cuts in Mamsen’s, the ship’s

cosy deli, named after the mother of Viking

Chairman Torstein Hagen.

In fact, the whole ship is designed with comfort in

mind. The Scandinavian-inspired lounges, with their

reindeer pelt-covered chairs, are perfect for hunkering

down during the star-studded Arctic nights when

temperatures plummet and a cold wind blows outside.

All around are bookshelves stocked with exciting

tales of Shackleton, Amundsen and Nansen.

The Nordic theme continues in the excellent

restaurants and even the Spa, where a steam room,

sauna and Snow Grotto allow for the full Scandinavian

bathing ritual of fire and ice.

But it is the chance to see the elusive northern lights

which is the big draw to this trip.

Witnessing the phenomenon is by no means

guaranteed. Conditions have to be just right, with

the sun ejecting enough plasma towards a cloudless,

moonless night on Earth for the lights to firstly form,

and then be visible from below.

The whole crew is permanently on aurora-watch,

with even the bridge officers poised to announce

sightings via the ship’s tannoy.

Cupping her hands, she howled an eerie call into the

wilderness. Within seconds the wolves had answered,

baying in reply and hurrying over to let us warm our

frozen fingers in their fur.

The next port of call was Alta, which at nearly

70 degrees north is the world’s most northerly city.

It is known as “The City of Northern Lights”, a good

sign, if any, that the aurora may show itself.

This time my mother joined us as we took a

nighttime excursion into the mountains, where the

sky was pitch black, offering the best chance of a

glimpse of the spectacle away from the lights of town.

But although we had an enjoyable evening,

lounging round birch wood fires, and sipping hot

chocolate under a blanket of stars, the aurora

remained absent.

The following day we visited the Sámi, the

indigenous people who still herd reindeers in the

mountains and who believe the northern lights

emanate from the souls of the dead. They traditionally

refused to go outside when the aurora was in the sky.

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a

frozen river we were served a warming bowl of bidos,

or reindeer stew, inside the Sámi communal tents,

called lavvu, where we were entertained with





fascinating tales of life in the frozen north.

Although the aurora again remained hidden, as

we sailed further south towards Tromsø our hopes

began to lift when the forecast showed a spike in the

solar winds indicating that the light-generating plasma

was on its way to Earth. We were playing Scrabble in

the Atrium when the announcement everyone had been

universities had been on hand in the previous days

with photography tips and it had paid dividends.

The lights were so bright that evening they were

seen as far south as Aberdeen, in Scotland. And they

returned the night after for a briefer yet similarly

impressive performance.

The next day we sailed to Stavanger. There is plenty

Glowing streaks of green darted and swept across the sky, then vanished

in an instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue and purple

Clockwise from

above: Endless

fjords stretching

to the horizon;

dog sledding

across the



of Norway



hoping for came from the bridge. “The northern lights

have been sighted on the starboard bow.”

My dad and I headed out onto the deck.

The wait was worth it. Glowing streaks of green

darted and swept across the sky, then vanished in an

instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue

and purple. Arcs framed the mountains and great

smoky waves of light drifted from the peaks like an

eruption of emerald lava.

Not wanting my mother to miss it, I raced back

down to the lounge where she was sitting and insisted

she join us outside on the deck. Her face on seeing

the spectacle was worth it. The lights appeared directly

above the ship for around an hour then moved off

south and were gone entirely.

We found my dad in a corridor comparing pictures

with other delighted guests. Experts from the Royal

Astronomical Society and some of Britain’s best

to do on board, from yoga classes, to massages and

beauty treatments, games, concerts, wine tasting,

films and talks, to name but a few.

By the time we reached Stavanger it felt like a

gentle re-entry into real life. The ship docked right

in the centre of town, and we spent an enjoyable

morning pootling around the chic shops and coffee

bars, before setting sail across the North Sea and

back home to the UK.

As we disembarked at Tilbury – unexpectedly

simple compared to most cruises – we all agreed

we could have stayed longer, and had made some

fabulous memories. Captain Bengt Gustafson

insisted on saying goodbye to each and every

passenger as we left.

A 13-day 2021 In Search of the Northern Lights

cruise, from Bergen to London, starts at £3,990pp.





Resting 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle,

Tromsø is blessed with mild winters thanks to

the Gulf Stream, making it an ideal destination

to see the northern lights

Inhabited for 10,000 years,

Tromsø has a fascinating

history. Sitting centrally to

all the Nordic countries (as

well as Russia), it became

a major Arctic trade centre and

the starting point for many an

Arctic expedition. You can learn

more of the hardships those early

explorers endured at the fascinating

Polarmuseet (Polar Museum).

Surrounded by snow-capped

peaks and subject to the midnight

sun in the summer, this picturesque

city is compact enough to explore

by foot, but it is also well-served by

local buses. Start across the famous

bridge on Tromsdalen with a cable

car trip to the 421-metre-tall

Fjellheisen platform for stunning

views across the city, and fjords,

mountains and islands beyond.

As you head back towards Tromsø

stop at the iceberg-inspired Arctic

Cathedral, built by Norwegian

architect Jan Inge Hovig in 1965.

Wander along the attractive

harbour where the city’s oldest

wooden buildings make a pretty

photo backdrop, before moving

on to Skansen, a customs station

built in 1789 and Tromsø’s oldest

house. The remains of a medieval

settlement can be found here, too.

Then there is Tromsø Domkirk,

a wooden church and the world’s

most northerly cathedral.

Don’t miss

•Tromsø boasts the world’s

northernmost university, as

well as a rich cultural calendar

of music and festivals. Visit the

Universitetsmuseet (University

Museum) to learn more about the

region’s history, art and wildlife.

•The region is not only home to

a Norse population but also to

the Sámi people with their own

unique culture. A Sámi Reindeer

experience allows you to learn

more about the people who herd

and live with reindeer year-round,

as well as a chance to meet and

feed the animals.

•The city is proud of its pubs, and

until recently claimed the most

northern commercial brewery: the

Mack Brewery. If you stop for a

pint at their Ølhallen (‘The Hall’),

Tromsø’s oldest pub, you’ll have

more than 70 beers to choose from.

•Everyone wants to see the aurora

borealis and they are occasionally

visible from Tromsø itself, but

taking an excursion to avoid the

light pollution is the best option.

If that’s not possible visit the

Northern Norwegian Science

Centre for a fantastic northern

lights planetarium show.

Clockwise, from

above: Gorgeous

views of snowcapped


surround the city;

the northern lights

are often visible

from the city

Fast Facts

•Tromsø is pronounced trom-seh,

not troms-O.

•It takes its name from the island

on which it is located: Tromsøya.

•Tromsø hosts more pubs per

capita than any other town

in Norway.

•Between the months of May and

July the sun never dips below the

horizon, while it is not visible at all

from November to January.

•The city is not only home to the

world’s northernmost university,

but also the northernmost botanical

garden, brewery and planetarium.

•Despite its location so far north,

the city enjoys a moderate oceanic

climate with relatively mild winters,

making it the perfect location for

outdoor activities.

•There is evidence that human

settlement in Tromsø dates back

10,000 years, whilst the local Sámi

culture is at least 2,000 years old.


Insider Tips


Tromsø is famed for its

distinctive modern Arctic

Cathedral, also known as

Tromsdalen Church. Built

in 1965 by the architect

Jan Inge Hovig, it seats 600

people and is made from

concrete and metal.


Keep an eye out for the

Tromsø coat of arms which is

a reindeer presented against

an azure blue background,

sometimes topped by a

crown. The stylised drawing,

devised in 1870, was created

by Hallvard Trætteberg.


Tromsø's town centre has

the largest number of old

wooden houses in northern

Norway, dating from 1789

to 1904. Common decorative

features include Hound’s

tooth patterns in the

window frames.


Built in 1961 by a local

shipping company, the

Tromsø's Cable Car

runs from Solliveien,

in Tromsdalen, up to

Storsteinen, a mountain

ledge 421m above sea-level.

The trip takes four minutes.





Kiliii Yuyan

(b. 1979), Umiaq

and north wind

during spring

whaling. Inkjet

print, 2019.

© Kiliii Yuyan.


Dr Jan Peter Laurens Loovers, Project Curator of the

Citi exhibition Arctic: culture and climate at the British Museum,

shares his highlights of the upcoming show

What do you hope to achieve

with this ambitious exhibition?

The exhibition explores the lives of

around 400,000 Indigenous Arctic

Peoples who have made hospitable

homelands out of ecosystems of ice

for over 30,000 years.

These communities have been

on the frontline of global climate

change and have noticed how their

homelands and its weather patterns

are changing drastically. Weather

affects every aspect of their lives –

food, travel, clothing, and even

love. Climate change is making

generations of knowledge obsolete.

Thus the exhibition shows what is

at stake when the homelands of

Arctic Indigenous Peoples are free

from ice in 80 years, as predicted.

Ice is fundamental to their lives,

serving as building material for

roads and temporary shelters,

enabling freedom to travel widely

and providing access to bountiful

worlds. Permafrost – frozen soil,

which acts as bedrock in the Arctic

– is thawing fast. Without it, roads

are sinking, structures are collapsing

and solid ground is giving way. If

the Arctic is ice free within 80

years, what will happen to these

ways of life centred on the cold?

Can you tell us a bit more

about the range of objects and

artworks on show?

The exhibition covers over 30,000

years of life in the Arctic with

282 objects from across the

region with lenders from Alaska,

Denmark, the Russian Federation,

and Switzerland. Objects include

clothing, transport, cooking

utensils, sewing tools, ceremonial

items and contemporary art. We

will, of course, show quintessential

Arctic objects such as snow

spectacles, harpoons, parkas, masks,

dog and reindeer sleds, and a kayaq,

as well as 157 objects that have

never been shown before.

We’ve also commissioned new

objects – such as a mammoth-ivory

model by Sakha master carver

Fedor Markov and a Kentish-stone

inukshuk by Inuit leader and artist

Piita Irniq – and created a number

of videos that offer snapshots of

Arctic Indigenous Peoples’ seasonal

lives. These include films of Nenet

reindeer herding in the Yamal

Peninsula as well as Inuit

seamstresses in Mittimatalik

making boots from sealskins. It will

also host photographs by Brian

Adams who is an Inupiat from

Alaska and an edited film by Kiliii

Yüyan who is a American-Chinese-

Nanai film-maker.


How is the Arctic landscape

woven through the exhibition?

The Arctic landscape will take a

prominent place in the exhibition.

We want to bring the Arctic to

London so that the visitor can

have an immersive experience.

The land, sea, and ice are of

pivotal importance to Arctic

Indigenous Peoples. Inuit carvings

depict various animals such as a

narwhal, a polar bear, a caribou

(wild reindeer), or an owl. Inuit

art, likewise, emphasises the

importance of the land. Perhaps

nobody shows this as successfully

as acclaimed Inuit artist Kenojuak

Ashevak (1927-2013) in her 1992

drawing Nunavut Qajanartuk

(Our Beautiful Land). The circular

drawing shows the seasonal lives

of Inuit in Nunavut with scenes of

habitation, hunting and travelling.

How have you showcased the

contact with outsiders?

Some Arctic Indigenous Peoples

met “southerner” explorers and

traders in the early 19th century,

but others had a much longer or

shorter history with “southerners”.

The exhibition highlights several

drawings to show how European

expansion into the Arctic often led

to conflict or collaboration. Three

drawings by the English artist John

White, made somewhere between

1585 and 1593, show the violent

escapades of Sir Martin Frobisher’s

1576-1578 voyages to the Hudson’s

Strait to explore new lands.

Arctic Indigenous Peoples also

began to incorporate Southerner

clothing styles and Christianity. For

example, an Aleut parka made from

sea-mammal gut is in the style of a

Russian officer’s cloak, while another

Aleutian artisan made a calendar

from driftwood and walrus ivory to

keep track of important Russian

Orthodox days. In other cases, like

a Sámi bag that includes older

spiritual designs in contemporary

objects, the Peoples have adjusted

their spiritual objects to be

“hidden” from the colonial regimes.

Wildlife features heavily, too.

“Southerners” are prone to speak

about animal instincts but Arctic

Indigenous Peoples believe an

animal’s personhood is akin to that

of a human, and stress the ongoing

importance of nourishing respectful

relations with animals.

A breakdown in such relations

can lead to dire consequences such

as the withholding of luck for

successful hunting, bad weather or

even death. When looking at Inuit

artist Pudlo Pudlat’s lithograph

Forced Immigration, which shows a

polar bear, a walrus and a muskox

hanging from a military helicopter,

one might ponder what such

actions would have resulted in.

While hunting has mainly been

done by men, women play a crucial

role in maintaining good relations

with animals too. Animals give

themselves to the hunters and their

families who observe respectful

relationships. Women, therefore,

have moral obligations to make

beautiful garments from hunted

animals for the men to wear during

the hunt. The processing of food

also needs to be done properly to

maintain the family’s wellbeing.

What is your favourite item?

With over 280 objects it is difficult

to pinpoint one item, so allow me

to highlight a few. Small beads

made from mammoth ivory offer

insight into how Arctic Peoples

created beautiful objects as early as

32,000 years ago. A reindeer-antler

needle and bird-bone needle case

from Zhokov Island were made

about 9,000 years ago, and a piece

of a willow basket from the same

site and era tell us how life would

have been for Arctic ancestors.

Coming closer to the present

day (AD500-1300), a Dorset wand

with 27 faces, each with a unique

expression, has been carved in a

caribou antler. And a map from the

Bering Strait drawn on sealskin in

the 1850s shows the annual

movements of the maker.

Another unique object is a

waterproof Kalaallit whaling suit

made from sealskins. It’s the only

one that remains intact and would

have been used by a hunter to jump

on a sleeping whale and harpoon it.

Perhaps my most favourite item

is an early 20th-century Gwich’in

summer outfit made from caribou

skin. The colourful porcupine quills

set against the white reindeer skin

are beautiful and the skills of the

Gwich’in seamstress are exceptional.

This is just a small selection of

the objects that will captivate,

amaze and inspire visitors.

The Citi exhibition Arctic: culture

and climate at the British

Museum will be one of the first

exhibitions after the Museum

re-opens. Loans may be

impacted by the Covid 19 health

emergency. The accompanying

book, published by Thames &

Hudson in collaboration with the

British Museum, will be available

when the exhibition opens.

Check britishmuseum.org for the

updated opening details.

Clockwise, from


Andrew Qappik

(b. 1964, Inuit,



Canada), There’s

Another One.

Coloured stencil

drawing, 2012.

© Andrew Qappik;

Child’s all-in-one

suit made of

caribou fur. Inuit,

Igloolik, Nunavut,

Canada. 1980s.

© Trustees of the

British Museum;

Ivory model

sled with dogs,

Northeast Siberia,

Russia. © The

Trustees of the

British Museum.




This page:

Guests on a Viking

Longship enjoy a

closer view of the

castles lining the

Rhine River near

the town of Kaub,

in Germany

Tour de


Lisa Small discovers stunning

architecture, delicious cuisine and vibrant

culture on a Grand European Tour

To get to the very heart of

some of Europe’s most

beautiful and historic

cities there is perhaps no

better way to travel than by river, as

I discovered with great pleasure on

my glorious Grand European Tour

voyage with Viking. Just the name

of the cruise was enough to stir my

romantic sensibilities, conjuring

up images of days gone by when

wealthy young men embarked on

a two-year Grand Tour of Europe

in search of great enlightenment,

education and inspiration.

I too was hoping for all those

things from my 15-day adventure

exploring the cities, towns and

diverse landscapes that line the

banks of the Rhine, Main and

Danube rivers. And I wasn’t

disappointed. In fact, by the end of

my journey I had gained so much

more, including new friends, more

luggage and a few extra pounds.

Isn’t that the mark of a good trip?

River cruising really is a different

way of seeing the world. Every day

brings new scenery and exciting

destinations, from ancient rural

towns to thriving cosmopolitan

cities; vineyard-covered hills to

mountainous forests watched over

by crumbling fairy-tale castles.

River cruise ships are so much

smaller than ocean liners, but this

means they can transport you right

into the very centre of the city and

moor up, putting all the sights

and attractions within walking

distance of your floating hotel.

When you’re docked somewhere

overnight, it makes it really easy to

spend more time getting to know a

place on your own – and the staff

on board are great with directions,

so I was never afraid of getting

lost or missing out on a wonderful

opportunity that came my way.

The Viking Longship might

have been smaller compared to

its ocean-going cousins, but it





was actually surprisingly spacious

once you stepped on board. The

lovely Sun Deck was a great place

to sit and soak up the scenery with

a glass of something chilled, the

comfortable and surprisingly airy

lounge was where it all happened

before and after dinner and as for

my stateroom…well it was more

like a hotel room.

Arriving in Amsterdam, the

thought of a whole 15 days

stretching ahead of me seemed like

a deliciously long time, though I

wanted to be sure to do justice to

the rich history and culture of The

Netherlands, Germany, Austria and

Hungary. There’s something about

being on the river, about gliding

silently through the countryside,

that is truly relaxing and feels a

million miles from home and work.

Life happens at a much slower pace

somehow, despite being able to take

so much of Europe in.

I don’t know how Viking does it,

but it really does work.

Our adventure started on the

Rhine with a tour of the charming

17th-century streets and canals

of old Amsterdam. I had visited

From left to

right: Majestic

houses reflect in

the canal waters

in Amsterdam;

watch the sunrise

over a spot of

breakfast on the

Aquavit Terrace

It doesn’t matter how far you have travelled...

nothing quite prepares you for the jaw-dropping

natural beauty of the Middle Rhine



Melk Abbey, perched on dramatic cliffs high

above the Danube, is perhaps the most graceful

landmark of the Wachau Valley. The interior of the

Abbey’s church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange

and gold, and a highlight is the Imperial Staircase

which leads off the impressive library.

the city before, but this time there

was something really special about

being on the water and a real part

of the whole city scene. Whilst in

The Netherlands, we went to see

the famous Kinderdijk windmills.

It was a great opportunity to take

some photographs and learn more

about why these brilliant structures

formed such an integral part of

the Dutch landscape, which is

criss-crossed with waterways.

The Rhine continued its

natural course into Germany and

we went with it, spending the

next eight fantastic days cruising

through some of Europe’s most

utterly breathtaking scenery, all

while making the most of Viking’s

wonderful hospitality, excellent

facilities and delicious food.

It doesn’t matter how old you

get, or how far you have travelled

across the many countries of the

world, nothing quite prepares you

for the jaw-dropping natural beauty

of the Middle Rhine. Dramatic

cliffs, hilltop castles straight from

the pages of Sleeping Beauty and

quaint riverside towns boasting

gabled houses and cobbled squares

really do still exist in this magical

land that time appears to have

forgotten. It’s a place I, and my

fellow travellers, will certainly

not forget in a hurry.

Sharing the experiences of each

day with other guests on board




was one of the lovely things about

my cruise. I met some wonderful,

like-minded people and thanks

to the intimacy of our Viking

Longship, I had the opportunity to

enjoy their friendly and interesting

company throughout the voyage.

There were no fixed seating plans

at dinner so we were free to share

the fabulous food and conversation

with different people on different

nights, which kept the atmosphere

really informal and gave everyone

the opportunity to meet and get

to know new people.

Other notable German

highlights for me were stopping

off for a beer in Germany’s oldest

inn – ‘The Inn of the Giant’ – in

Miltenberg; seeing the magnificent

I had a glass of wine in my hand, and was looking

up at the inky black night sky, illuminated by a thousand

stars, as we sailed into beautiful Budapest



Much of this part of The

Netherlands is actually below sea

level. As the original technological

marvels of historic Kinderdijk, these

19 windmills have been designated

a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built in the mid-18th century, these

structures stand like sentinels on

a hushed landscape.



from above:

The rooftops of

beautiful Vienna;

the Hungarian

Parliament is a

sight to behold on

the Danube; dining

with a view is one

of the benefits of

sailing with Viking

frescoes in the Bishop’s Residenz in

Würzburg; tucking into sausages

and sauerkraut at the Old Sausage

Kitchen in Regensburg and

shopping for gingerbread and

pink pepper chocolate in Passau.

Once on the Danube, we sailed

into Austria where we encountered

countless ‘camera-ready’ moments

between Melk and Krems and a

fabulous tour of the culturally rich

and history-packed capital, Vienna.

The end of this most memorable

of journeys was marked by a

moment I will cherish forever...

standing out on the top deck of our

Longship, there was music playing

gently in the background, I had

a glass of wine in my hand,

and was looking up at the inky

black night sky, illuminated by

a thousand twinkling stars, as

we sailed into the beautiful and

historic city of Budapest. It was a

truly magical experience and an

absolutely wonderful way to end

our 15-day adventure cruising

through Europe’s majestic and

enthralling waterways.

A 15-day 2022 Grand European

Tour river cruise, sailing from

Amsterdam to Budapest, starts

from £2,895pp.






of the north

This illuminating cruise combines epic scenery

and snow-dusted landscapes with Sámi legends

and rock carvings


from top left:

colourful houses

in UNESCO-listed

Bryggen wharf,

in Bergen; the

Sámi have herded

reindeer for

centuries; the

Arctic Cathedral

is one of Norway’s




Arrive in Tilbury, London, and take some time to settle

into the ship – your home for the next 13 days.


Setting sail for the North Sea, you’ll have ample time to

learn about this vast body of water and its importance

throughout history, as well as take in panoramic views.


You’ll have a day to explore the old town, Gamle

Stavanger, known for its charming cobbled walkways

and white wooden buildings. You might also like

to cruise along the Lysefjord to spot the remarkable

Preikestolen rock or visit the museum for some history.


Cruising the Norwegian Sea to your next port of call,

you’ll have lots of time to make the most of your ship’s

amenities, from The Spa to the Scandinavian eateries.


Lying just north of the Arctic Circle is Bodø, a city

rebuilt after experiencing unprecedented destruction

in World War II. From here you’ll be able to enjoy

an included tour to see the Customs House, the

Norwegian Aviation Museum and Gothic Bodø

Cathedral with its dramatic 36-metre clock tower.


Your next port of call is the northern city and island of

Tromsø with its quaint historic centre and surrounding

snowcapped peaks. Be sure to visit its Arctic Cathedral,

famed for its striking triangular shape. Another

highlight is the Tromsø Wilderness Centre, while a

once-in-a-lifetime glacier trek to discover Norway’s

wilderness is the perfect way to spend day two here.


Spend the next two days on the shores of Altafjord,

the gateway to the Arctic and a great place to spot the

northern lights. You can also visit rock carvings telling

stories of Norwegian culture, something you can learn

more about at the Alta Museum, or take a trip to the

Northern Lights Cathedral with its flame-like steeple.


Narvik is situated on the innermost shores of Ofotfjord

and enjoys a dramatic backdrop of mountains and a

huge glacier that tumbles right down to the water’s

edge. Explore the Polar Park, where you can spot Arctic

wolves in their natural habitat as well as other wildlife.


After departing from Narvik, you’ll have another chance

to discover your ship’s highlights. Try out the Viking Art

App installed on your mobile device, where you can

learn all about the Scandinavian-inspired art on board.


Be greeted in Bergen by UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf,

a harbour lined with cute 18th-century houses. Spend

your last night on board before returning home.

The 13-day 2022 In Search of the Northern Lights

trip around Norway starts at £3,990pp.








Here we select a few of our favourite books…







Atlantic Books,


Split between

modern day Paris

and Prague in

the heady summer of 1985, the

narrative follows Laure who, today,

owns and curates her own museum

in the French capital. Every object

has been donated – a cake tin,

a wedding veil, a baby’s show.

And each represents a moment of

grief or betrayal. Yet hidden away

are artefacts from Laure’s own

painful youth – secrets that hint at

her brush with life with dissident

politics behind the Iron Curtain.

As Laure faces up to the love

that has shaped her life, the novel

also reveals some of the darkest

moments in European history.






Eland Publishing,


Ever since

reading The

Adventures of

Huckleberry Finn as a seven year

old, British author Jonathan Raban

dreamt of navigating the waters

of the Mississippi in a spartan 16ft

motorboat. Thirty years later, in the

late 1970s, he turned his childhood

dream into a reality to create this

masterpiece of contemporary

American travel writing.

During the course of his voyage,

Raban records all the mercurial

caprices of the river and the varied

lives of the people who live along

its banks, all with a dose of wry

humour. He is an expert observer

of the hospitality, energy and

charm of America’s heartland as he

finds himself, at times, vulnerable,

curious, angry and foolishly in love





Orion Publishing

Co, £8.99

Hidden in the

heart of the old

city of Barcelona

is the ‘Cemetery

of Lost Books’, where a man brings

his 10-year-old son Daniel one cold

morning in 1945. He is allowed to

choose one book from the shelves

and pulls out ‘The Shadow of the

Wind’ by Julian Carax.

As he grows up, several people

seem inordinately interested in his

find, igniting Daniel to launch his

own investigation into the author’s

life. What begins as curiosity soon

turns into a race to find out the

truth behind the life and death of

Julian Carax. This stunning literary

thriller will have you hooked.






This madcap

classic takes

readers back

one million

years to 1986.

The plot follows a mismatched

cast of characters who set off on

holiday to the fictional island of

Santa Rosalia in the Galápagos

archipelago. When an apocalypse

then ensues, a small group of

survivors end up stranded on

Santa Rosalia and find themselves

the progenitors of a brand new

and totally transformed human

race – think thick fur, flipper-like

hands and streamlined skulls.

Full of Vonnegut’s trademark

satire, dark humour and originality,

his 11th novel questions the merit

of the human brain from an

evolutionary point of view as he

uses Darwin’s theory to reach his

conclusions and reveal all that is

worth saving in the world.




Publishing, £8.99

The first in the

bestselling Harry

Hole series, this

thriller transports

Nordic noir to

sunny Sydney.

Following the murder of a young

Norwegian backpacker, Harry is

sent to Australia to investigate, and

soon unearths a string of unsolved

murders and disappearances.

Nothing will stop the detective

from finding out the truth and the

hunt for a serial killer is on, but the

murderer will talk only to Harry.

The evocation of Australia itself

has Nesbo’s customary expertise

in this addictive read as the stellar

plot keeps readers guessing until

the final pages.









Escape to

Greece in

this new novel about the stormy

undercurrents of an idyllic artist

community on the island of Hydra.

Living tangled lives, the group of

poets, painters and musicians are

ruled by the writers Charmian Clift

and George Johnston, troubled

king and queen of bohemia.

Forming within this circle is a

triangle: the magnetic, destructive

writer Axel Jensen, his dazzling

wife Marianne Ihlen, and a young

Canadian poet named Leonard

Cohen. Into their midst arrives

teenage Eric who, settling on the

periphery, watches, entranced and

disquieted, as paradise unravels.

The spellbinding book is a tale

of innocence lost and the wars

waged between men and women

on the battlegrounds of genius.






to savour

Cassie Wilcox celebrates the rich history,

forward-thinking spirit and culinary culture of the

welcoming French city of Lyon


Divided by two rivers,

the Saône and Rhône,

Lyon’s topography first

attracted the Romans,

who founded the city’s predecessor,

Lugdunum, on the steep slopes of

Fourvière Hill in 43BC. Today, the

basilica-crowned hill offers pretty

views over the terracotta roofs of

Vieux-Lyon (the Old Town), one

of the world’s largest Renaissance


From Fourvière, you can walk

(or take the funicular) downhill to

the cobbled Croix-Rousse district

in Vieux-Lyon and explore its

warren of traboules – passages and

tunnels created through houses and

courtyards to offer silk workers a

shortcut to market. And silk has

had a key role to play in Lyon’s

economy and culinary traditions.

Lyon boasts many titles, such

as the silk capital and the ancient

capital of the Gauls. But its most

famous is the capital of gastronomy.

The city’s culinary heritage is the

legacy of its mères, mothers who,

when dismissed from the homes

of bourgeois families during

the economic crisis of 1929, set

up their own restaurants called

bouchons. Here, silk workers sat

alongside businessmen and dined

on simple, hearty dishes, washed

down with a carafe of Beaujolais or

CÔtes du RhÔne.

Pork is a menu staple in Lyon’s

bouchons. Quenelles are another

typical dish; light and airy

dumplings, almost like a soufflé,

made with creamed fish or meat.

For something lighter, try the Salade

Lyonnaise, a green salad with bacon

lardons, croutons, mustard dressing

and a poached egg.

These mères taught many of

Lyon’s now famous chefs, including

Paul Bocuse who went on to

establish his three Michelin-star

restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de

Collonges, and his Lyon brasseries:

Le Nord, L’Ouest, Le Sud and

L’Est, each specialising in a

different region of French cuisine.

In a city of more than 2,000

restaurants, there is no shortage

of innovative chefs and you could

happily spend your days sampling

the many delicious wares available.

At the epicentre of Lyon’s food

culture is Les Halles de Lyon,

the almost mythical indoor food

market, with an international

reputation for selling the finest

produce available, anywhere.

It is an ideal place to taste the

best of French and Lyonnaise

cuisine, with over 50 vendors

selling a vast diversity of produce.

Butchers, charcutiers, fromagers,

pastry chefs and wine specialists

have all set up shop, and once

inside, you can wander around and

enjoy a meal or choose a sampler

plate. Among the culinary treasures

are Lyon’s signature brioches au

pralines, and an extraordinary array

of cheeses made with cow, goat

and sheep’s milk. Chocolates make

a wonderful gift to take home, as

do macarons, in flavours such as

strawberry and tarragon, and lemon

and cassis. One thing is certain, it is

impossible to leave empty handed.

Few things sum up a destination

as honestly as its cuisine and

culinary traditions. Food is at the

heart of every culture. But in Lyon,

food is more than the heart, it is the

very soul of the city.

Viking offers a variety of

excursions in Lyon, including

Flavours of Lyon, on its 8-day

Lyon & Provence river cruise.

2021 & 2022 prices from £1,595pp.

Clockwise, from

above: Al fresco

dining abounds

in Lyon; many of

the historical sites

in Lyon overlook

the two rivers



A Taste of France

Conjure up a delightful reminder of French

cuisine with these classic dishes from our

recipe book, The Kitchen Table

French cuisine has long been

the envy of the world. No

matter whether it’s the rich

flavours of the southern

regions, with their Mediterranean

influences, or the country-style

dishes of the north, sophisticated

tastes, elegant presentation and

local produce can be guaranteed.

The recipes below include a classic

Provençal fish stew, coq au vin – a

a hearty, rustic dish with regional

variations across France – and a

traditional French apple tart.



Serves 4


• Olive oil

• 125g (4 ½ oz) fennel, sliced

• 2 red onions, chopped

• 1 tsp sea salt

• 1 tbsp tarragon, chopped

• ½ tsp black pepper

• Fish heads, bones and offcuts

• 1kg (2.2 lb) tomatoes, roughly


• 2 tbsp tomato purée

• 1 pinch saffron threads

• 1 lemon, juiced

• 2 tbsp butter


• 3 egg yolks

• Salt and pepper

• ½ lemon, juiced

• Pinch saffron

• Pinch cayenne pepper

• 200ml (6 ¾ fl oz) olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, crushed

• 200g (7 oz) salmon

• 200g (7 oz) pollock

• 200g (7 oz) monkfish

• 450g (1 lb) mussels, scrubbed,

beards removed

1. To make the broth, heat 4

tablespoons of olive oil in a large

pan over a medium heat. Add the

fennel and cook for 3 to 4 minutes

without it colouring, then add the

red onion, sea salt, tarragon and

black pepper.

2. Add the fish bones and offcuts

and the tomatoes, then cover with

water. Bring to a simmer, skimming

off any residue that rises to the

surface. Add the tomato purée and

saffron and bring back to a simmer.

Cook for about 1 ½ hours, or until

it has reduced by about a third.

3. Sieve the broth, pressing down

the contents of the sieve with a

ladle to extract as much liquid as

possible, then add the lemon juice

and whisk in the butter. Check the

seasoning, then cool and refrigerate.

4. To make the rouille, whisk the

egg yolks with the seasoning,

lemon juice, saffron and cayenne

pepper. Slowly add the oil in a thin

stream, whisking continuously,

then stir in the garlic. Add a little

warm water if it is too thick. Set

aside until needed.

5. Bring the reserved broth up

to a simmer, then add all the fish.

Poach until just tender, adding the

firmest fillets first, then remove

and place on a serving platter.

Ladel over the broth. Serve with

the rouille on the side and some

garlic croutons.


Bouilleabaisse was

first created by

French fisherman

with unwanted fish

from their catch



Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes”

photographed by Karine in the

Umbrian Countryside


2 nd Edition





• 2 tbsp plain (all purpose) flour

• 1 large chicken, jointed

• 2 tbsp butter

• 125g (4 ½ oz) bacon lardons

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 medium carrot, chopped

• 1 bottle full-bodied red wine

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

• 1 tsp sugar

• 1 bouquet garni (bundle of

parsley, bay leaves and thyme)

• Olive oil

• 225g (8 oz) baby onions, peeled

• 225g (8 oz) small button

mushrooms, trimmed

• Small bunch of fresh parsley

From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on

her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of

our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen

tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary

horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and

fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.




1. Season the flour generously,

then toss the chicken pieces in the

seasoned flour until well coated.

2. In a heavy-based casserole pot,

melt a tablespoon of the butter. Fry

the chicken pieces, turning around

until they are golden brown.

Remove the chicken pieces and set

aside. Add in the bacon, onion and

carrot and fry for around 5 minutes.

3. Pour in the wine, de-glazing the

pan and scraping any caramelised

bits stuck to the bottom. Add the

chicken back in along with the

garlic, sugar and bouquet garni.

Cover and simmer for an hour.

4. Before serving, melt another

tablespoon of butter in a frying

pan along with a tablespoon of

olive oil. Add in the baby onions

and mushrooms, season with salt

and pepper and fry until golden.

Stir in to the chicken.

5. Remove the bouquet garni

and garnish the coq au vin with

chopped fresh parsley. Serve

straight from the casserole.






Join Viking’s Karine Hagen

as she explores dishes that

represent some of the world’s

most interesting destinations.

All recipes included here

are featured in The Kitchen

Table, which is now available

to view on Viking.TV





• Plain (all purpose) flour, for


• 320g (11 ¼ oz) all-butter puff


• 4-6 apples

• 1 lemon

• 2 tbsp butter

• 4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar


1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/

400°F. On a flour-dusted surface,

roll out the pastry as thinly as you

can (around 3-5mm is ideal) and

cut out a 22cm circle using an

upturned cake tin or plate as a

template. Place on a baking sheet

lined with baking paper and chill in

the refrigerator until you’re ready

to assemble the tart.

2. Peel, core and thinly slice the

apples. To prevent them going

brown, place in a bowl of cold

water with a squeeze of lemon.

3. Arrange the apple slices in

overlapping, concentric circles

around the pastry base, leaving

a small border. In a small

saucepan, melt the butter

and 3 tbsp sugar together and

brush generously all over the

apples and pastry border.

4. Bake for 20 minutes, then

brush again with the butter and

sugar mixture and dust with the

remaining tablespoon of sugar.

Bake for another 5-10 minutes,

or until golden on top. Serve at

room temperature.






To celebrate World Oceans Day in June, we bring to life

the geography, resources and discoveries

related to this northern ocean


If you pulled Norway’s crinkled

coastline out into a straight

line, it would circle the

planet two and a half times.

From north to south, the country

measures less than 1,100 miles, but

its coastline is a huge 63,000 miles

of fjords, bays and island shores.

This glorious natural wonder

was shaped during the last Ice Age

when glaciers several miles high

pushed into the land, resulting in

dramatic soaring peaks, like those

seen on the Lofoten Islands.


Stretching out into the Norwegian

Sea, the remote Lofoten archipelago

shows off the sculpting power of

nature. The islands are home to the

world’s greatest cod harvest. Each

winter, the icy Arctic Ocean meets

the Gulf Stream, attracting Arctic

cod from the Barents Sea. These

relatively warm waters are why the

sea here remains ice-free all year.

Tørrfisk or stockfish is dried and

salted fish (usually cod), made in

Norway for centuries. Traditionally

dried outdoors by the wind and sun

as a way to preserve nutrients, row

upon row of fish hang on wooden

racks along the shores of Lofoten,

as it has done for 500 years.

These waters are also rich in

herring, and the abundance of fish

in turn attracts an abundance of

other animals. Minke, humpback,

sei and orca come to feed, while the

cries of puffin, kittiwake, gannets,

gulls and guillemot pierce the sky.

Until the 20th century, the

coast was sparsely populated,

although the coastal Sámi, who first

colonised the land, have been living

here for up to 4,000 years.


From the deck of a ship, you sense

a timelessness about the land,

which is both wild and resilient.

You can understand the pull of

the sea that Norwegian explorers

like Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof

Nansen felt. For many years, the

Norwegian Sea was thought to

be the edge of the known world.

To sail across the sea was an act

of daring. It was also a great

achievement of navigation.

By the eighth century, the only

European seafarers to dare sail

far enough to lose sight of land

were the Vikings. Waiting for

favourable winds, and armed with

plenty of provisions (like stockfish)

they ventured in all directions,

to create new settlements and

forge new trading routes. They

navigated by the position of the

stars, and the sun. West, towards

the sunset, meant they were headed

for England; east (towards the

sunrise) meant home to Norway.

Symbolic of the Viking age, the

Viking longships were sophisticated

beyond their time, recognised,

respected and imitated the world


Traditional homes

perch on wooden

stilts in the

Lofoten Islands





Clockwise, from top left: A sperm

whale breaches the Norwegian

waters; fish dries on wooden racks

along the coast; sea travel has always

been vital to the Norwegian way of

life; seagulls soar over the fjords; a

traditional Viking ship; the Lofoten

Islands attract thousands of puffins

each year; the archipelago wows with

its snow-capped mountain backdrop;

Stavanger’s pretty old town

over. Built not for comfort but for

speed, agility and endurance, the

ships’ innovative design allowed

the Vikings unparalleled access to

lands beyond their own.

Exploration is part of the

Norwegian DNA. By exploring

beyond the horizon, Norwegians

have mastered the sea and, in

turn, depend on it for transport,

resources and trade. The 14th

century was Norway’s Golden

Age, a time of peace and growing

international trade with Britain and

Germany. This period of trade was

controlled by the Hanseatic League

who established a trading centre

in Bergen. On Bergen’s Bryggen

(wharf) the preserved buildings

of the Hanseatic League are a

World Heritage Site and serve as

a reminder of the country’s

enduring link to the sea.


Today, the most important product

of the Norwegian Sea is not fish,

but oil and gas. Oil was first found

in the Norwegian sector of the

North Sea in 1969 and by 1990

the country was Europe’s largest

oil producer. By 2000, oil and

gas production accounted for 20

percent of Norway’s economy, and

it had become one of the world’s

most prosperous countries. The oil

industry not only created jobs in

production, but also in the supply

chain and technology.

To sail the Norwegian Sea is

to witness life along an eons-old

coastline that is as mesmerising as

the sea itself. Under the dusky

light of the midnight sun or

the mid-winter blanket of

darkness, the coast reveals tiny

settlements in sheltered hills that

appear unchanged through time.

The cities along the coast, from

Bergen to Tromsø and, in the far

north, Honningsvåg, were built

on fishing, trade and exploration

and they wear their heritage

proudly. Wooden buildings from

the 17th and 18th centuries line

the harbour, where the fish markets

sell the day’s catch. Deep, yawning

fjords, offer a route inland to

mountains and glaciers.

Many countries have a history

and culture firmly anchored to

the sea. None more so than the

people of Norway.

Above: Fishing

boats docked

in Henningsvær,

a village in the

Lofoten Islands





Old and new fuse beautifully in Vienna, where

classical music, Sigmund Freud and baroque sit

alongside hipster coffee shops, cutting-edge

cuisine and an artsy bohemian vibe

In Vienna, you feel the

weight of the Imperial City’s

important history at every

turn, with its impressive

palaces, Baroque ballrooms and

opulent opera houses, which

still uphold the grand traditions.

When the Habsburg monarchy,

who reigned in the 16th century,

brought their wealth and influence

to Vienna, the city was put on the

map for its ornate Baroque style.

Then came the musical and artistic

pioneers; it’s no coincidence that

four of the top classical musicians

in the world – Beethoven, Mozart,

Strauss and Haydn – lived in

Vienna, as did Sigmund Freud,

and artists Schiele and Klimt.

Today the historic centre still

draws crowds, and rightly so. The

impressive Gothic St. Stephen’s

Cathedral is seen as the symbol of

Vienna with its tower stretching

heavenwards for 136 metres. Don’t

miss the eerie, dimly lit catacombs

studded with skulls. Nearby the

high-baroque Winter Palace borders

Ringstrasse, the 19th-century

boulevard that is home to many of

Vienna's best-known sights, such

as the Imperial Palace, the Vienna

State Opera and Parliament.

However, Vienna is so much

more than its rich past. Today it’s a

bold and vibrant capital city. You’ll

find maverick artists experimenting

with street art along the banks of

the Danube River and museums

packed with Old Masters and

imperial art, as well as showing

exhibitions by contemporary talent

such as Rachel Whiteread. Hip

new coffee shops sit happily beside

Kaffeehaus, and new architecture

breathes fresh air into the city,

including Zaha Hadid’s modernist

library. To get the best out of

Vienna its crucial to take in both

of its equally enthralling sides.

Don’t miss

•MuseumsQuartier at the Imperial

Stables is Vienna’s largest art

complex housing an astonishing

ten museums. Look out for Art

Nouveau heroes Klimt and Schiele.

•Coffee and cake is a Viennese

institution. Fuel up at traditional

Vollpension café or try innovative

das Möbel, where design pieces

from its showroom are on display.

•Follow the locals in summer and

spend time on the Danube. There’s

a hop-on-hop-off boat, bicycles to

hire or simply stroll along the river.

•Take a whirl on Vienna’s vintage

Ferris wheel, the oldest in the

world. Reserve a private cabin for a

candlelit dinner to accompany the

stunning Vienna skyline.

Clockwise, from

this image:

Vienna's Baroque

Belvedere Palace;

the elegant


of the Café

Sacher Wien

•Visit Vienna’s summer palace,

Schönbrunn, with its elaborate

Rococo interior spread throughout

1,440 rooms. Linger in the

wonderfully landscaped park to

explore the maze and fountains.

Fast Facts

•Pez, the colourful sweetie

dispensers beloved by children,

were invented in Vienna in 1927.

•Every year from New Year’s Eve to

Easter is Viennese Ball Season, and

over 450 balls take place during this

period of time resulting in more

than 2,000 hours of dancing.

•In 2018, Vienna was crowned the

most liveable city in the world.

•The dazzling roof of St. Stephen’s

Cathedral features 230,000 glazed

mosaic tiles arranged in various

patterns including a double-headed

eagle – the symbol of the Austrian

empire when it was ruled by

the Habsburg dynasty.


Insider Tips


Enjoy classical music at

traditional concert hall

Musikverein, then retrace

the footsteps of composers

such as Beethoven, Strauss,

Haydn and Mozart by visiting

the houses they once lived

in around Vienna.


Spend an afternoon at

Vienna’s multi-cultural food

and flea market. Known as

Naschmarkt, it spans over a

mile and there are plenty of

traditional sausage stands

where visitors can stop for

a Bratwurst and a beer.


This stunning 1,709-seat

building is the home of the

Vienna State Opera and

features an impressive central

chandelier. It also hosts the

annual Vienna Opera Ball,

which attracts attendees

from all over the world.


The Spanish Riding School,

home to the world-famous

Lipizzaner stallions, is based

at the Hofburg, a former

imperial palace. The horses

perform in the opulent

baroque hall, in perfect

unison with their riders.




For the love of books

Books are another window

to the world, and are a

wonderful way to help

minds stay stimulated

during times of isolation. Our

new Viking.TV site hosts a

variety of recommended books

(as well as films and music)

relevant to each itinerary.

ON LOCATION with Karine


more appropriate title

to this month’s edition

might be At Home with

Karine, which is, of

course true for all of us. I hope

you are staying well and safe.

These extraordinary times may

have put a pause on travel, but we

are looking at new ways in which

we can stay connected, and share

information – and inspiration – for

when we can once again explore

our wonderful world.


At the end of March, we launched

Viking.TV, a new experience

channel designed to be an

uplifting place where we can

all continue to virtually explore

the world together – online.

As well as daily live stream

sessions, you’ll discover lots of

additional programming at your

fingertips on Viking.TV from short


documentaries to reading lists

and filmographies and classical

music concerts, and much more.



Museum Mondays

The Munch Museum director,

curator and conservationists

host Museum Mondays behind

closed doors for Privileged

Access to one of the world's

most interesting artists.

Resident Historian Tuesdays

Viking Resident Historians provide

lectures on iconic milestones in

world history and live Q&As.

Arts & Music Wednesdays

World-leading composers,

conductors, photographers,

artists, singers and musicians

share insights into their creative

worlds with you.

Guest Speaker Thursdays

Renowned journalist Anne

Diamond interviews guests

who have led or are leading

extraordinary lives.

At Home at Highclere Fridays

Join the Earl and Countess of

Carnarvon from their home,

Highclere Castle, the historic

country house that is the setting

for the television series and film,

Downton Abbey, every Friday.

Wellness Weekends

Mona Therese takes us through

gentle yoga exercises to balance

the mind and body during these

extraordinary times.

Exploring More with Karine

Karine shares some of her

favourite insights into world

cultures through these awardwinning

short documentaries.


from above:

Karine hosting

Viking.TV at

home; Heywood

Hill bookshop;

Karine gets lost

in a book; inside

Libreria Acqua

Alta in Venice; the

weekly schedule

on Viking.TV


One of the world’s leading

literary collectors and influential

booksellers, Heywood Hill,

shares with Viking a curiosity

and interest in the world’s many

fascinating people and places.

Together, we have curated

an exclusive selection of books

to enhance the experiences of

Viking guests on board our ships.

On Viking.TV you can listen to

Heywood Hill Chairman, Nicky

Dunne’s engaging talk entitled

“Confessions of a Bookseller”,

which was so popular that he

returned for another episode

where he interviewed the

proprietor of the shop (and

Nicky’s father-in-law) the Duke

of Devonshire, who gave us

Privileged Access and insights

into his home, Chatsworth

House, one of Britain’s finest

great homes.




When I travel, I love to discover,

sometimes by accident, some of the

more unusual independent bookshops.

These are invariably places where the

owner is passionate about books.


Heywood Hill also provides a subscription service for individuals, where

you can gift a year of books to friends and family based on their interests.

I love the idea of book subscriptions, which I gave to my father and other

special people in my life last Christmas, and now they get a surprise book

in the mail every month, tailored to their interests!

Libreria Acqua Alta

This hidden treasure in Venice is

an extraordinary shop run by the

charismatic Luigi Frizzo, who believes

that books “make your soul come

alive”. A book lover’s paradise,

Libreria Acqua Alta is a truly unique

interpretation of what a book store

should be. It reflects Luigi’s playful

spirit and his unwavering passion

for the written word. Libreria Acqua

Alta has an eclectic collection of

nearly 100,000 titles and includes

a staircase made entirely of books!

Shakespeare & Co.

One of my favourite bookshops in the

world is Shakespeare & Co. on Paris’s

Left Bank. This literary haven was

started in 1919 by a formidable woman

and American idealist called Sylvia

Beach, and it soon became a centre

for American

expats like Ernest

Hemingway and

F. Scott Fitzgerald.

After the war,

the bookshop

was bought

by American

writer George

Whitman and

it became

home to what

he called

tumbleweeds; aspiring writers who for

years were able to work and live in the

shop. The second floor is the library

and has a room with beds for the

tumbleweeds, as well as a piano. I’ve

been to Shakespeare & Co. on several

occasions when talented young

pianists have been performing, and

it’s been absolutely magical.




river of legends

In the first of a new series looking at the great rivers of

the world, we focus on the Rhine – a waterway that is as

commercially important as it is picturesque


History rarely repeats

itself on the Rhine.

Every town, every

castle, and just about

every rock has its own story to tell.

It’s a river blessed with fairytale

castles, vineyard-strewn hills, deep

forests and picture-book towns.

One that the Romans defined as the

edge of their empire. One where

the Prussians built an innovative

pontoon bridge to stop Napoleon’s

advancing army. And one where,

despite Hitler’s best efforts, US

troops found a bridge still standing

at Remagen, allowing Allied forces

to enter the heart of Europe.

Old Father Rhine, as the

Germans fondly call it, is Europe’s

busiest river, although there is

little sense of this on a sunny day,

drifting slowly past mile after mile

of steep vineyards guarded by

craggy castles and the occassional

sleepy town basking on its banks.

Although the Rhine is generally

associated with Germany, the river

flows through or along the border

of several other countries, including

Austria, Lichtenstein, France and

the Netherlands. The river rises

in the Swiss Alps, making its way

through the great expanse of Lake

Constance, emerging at one end to

cascade 21 metres over the foaming

Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen.

Beyond Basel, the Rhine is

navigable for river cruise vessels,

which sail all the way between here

and Amsterdam. The most famous

(and most beautiful) stretch is the

Romantic Rhine, or the Middle

Rhine, where the river forces

its way through a series of steep

gorges, crossing the hilly heart of

Germany’s wine-growing country.

Beyond the city of Bonn,

the landscape flattens out into

what has become the country’s

industrial heartland, the now

broad and powerful river flowing

through cities such as Cologne and

Düsseldorf before splitting into

several arms in the Netherlands

Clockwise, from

far left: Viking

Mani sails along

the picturesque

Rhine; vineyards

are a common

feature in the hilly

Middle Rhine area



and draining into the North Sea.

Several tributaries feed the

Rhine, among them is the Necker,

overlooked by the quaint university

city of Heidelberg, and the Moselle,

which twists and turns along a

narrow, forest-clad valley.

The Main flows through

Frankfurt, Germany’s financial

powerhouse but with a lovely old

centre, the Römerberg (Roman

Hill), where a series of elegant

patrician houses have been joined

to create the Rathaus (town hall).

Then in nearby Würzburg, the

Bishop’s Residenz is one of Europe’s

finest baroque palaces, with ornate

frescoes and immaculate gardens.

Throughout history, the Rhine

has defined borders and empires.

Caesar’s armies reached what is

now Cologne in 51 BC and built

the first bridge, giving them access

to the right bank and the hostile

territories beyond. The waterway

is dotted with former Roman

settlements, vestiges of which

remain in the form of ancient walls

and watchtowers. By the Middle

Ages, the Rhine was a treacherous

route for sailors; every bend was

guarded by a castle and bribes and

taxes had to be paid to sail past.

Passenger shipping in a much

more civilised form began with the

evolution of the paddle steamer in

1836, returning after the war until

the 1960s, when more modern

hotel ships started to appear.

Shipping on the river changed

forever in 1992 with the opening

of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal,

an engineering masterpiece that

allowed ships, for the first time, to

sail all the way from the North Sea,

along the Rhine, through the canal

to join the Main, into the Danube

and east to the Black Sea.

There are many highlights of

a Rhine voyage, from the rolling

hills of the Black Forest to the

half-timbered houses and market

squares of Strasbourg, where hours

can be whiled away in a street café,

sampling fruity Alsace wines.

For the length of the Rhine

Gorge, the scenery is dominated


by imposing castles perched on

impossibly sheer rocky outcrops,

each one hiding stories and legends

of dynastic battles and evil-doing.

At St. Goarshausen, the river twists

around jagged rocks in a series

of deep whirlpools; it is here that

the Lorelei nymph, according to

legend, lured sailors to their deaths

with her voice’s haunting beauty.

The pretty little town of

Boppard reveals layer upon layer

of history; here, you can see the

remains of what was once a series

of 28 Roman watchtowers, and

the town’s original medieval gates.

In Cologne, ships moor close

to the heart of the city, which is

dominated by the magnificent

Dom (Cathedral). Bonn and

Düsseldorf, meanwhile, have a

wealth of superb art museums and

some of Germany’s finest shopping.

Amsterdam, the final port on

many Rhine voyages (or the first,

depending on the direction of

the trip), is packed with sights,

from the graceful canals to the

magnificent and newly re-opened

Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank

House and the Maritime Museum.

Each season on the Rhine has

its own charm. Spring is the time

for admiring the glorious Dutch

bulb fields, swathes of scarlet, blue,

yellow and orange forming vast

stripes across the landscape, and

Keukenhof Gardens putting on a

beautiful display of colours.

Summer is the season of festivals,

of long afternoons in riverside beer

gardens and lazy days on deck as

the ship drifts gently through lush

vineyards and sunny meadows.

In autumn, the woodlands in the

Middle and Upper Rhine turn

yellow and gold and the wine

harvest comes in, which is always

a cause for celebration. December

is the season for Advent cruises,

exploring a new Christmas market

every day, shopping for handmade

gifts and sampling mulled wine.

Whatever the time of year, a

voyage along the Rhine is a glimpse

into the way this waterway has

shaped European history.

Clockwise, from

far left: Viking

guests are able to

enjoy lunch whilst

appreciating the

landscape of the

Rhine region;

Strasbourg comes

to life at sunrise





Viking’s Cassie Wilcox lived in Sydney for 17 years. She shares

what she loves most about the Australian city

There is so much to love

about Sydney, where

do you start? Perhaps

with Sydney Harbour,

where Viking begins its Australia

& New Zealand voyage.

The most beautiful harbour

in the world (yes, really), I never

tired of gazing at it. Sydney has

grown up around its harbour, bays

and coves, and exploring its pretty

harbourside parks and suburbs is

easy. From Circular Quay next to

Sydney Opera House, catch one of

the little ferries in any direction:

west to Glebe or Balmain, north

to Kirribilli or east to Manly. In

all these places, you can sit on the

waterfront admiring the views or

stop at a café for a coffee break.

Speaking of which, the coffee

in Australia is second to none, no

doubt because of the huge wave of

Italian migrants who now call ‘The

Lucky Country’ home. Food and

drink are a highlight of this city.

The best Italian food I’ve eaten was

here, often in little local restaurants

where Mamma supervises the

kitchen. The same is true for Thai

and Vietnamese cuisine. Again, an

enduring reward of immigration.

Australian chefs are creative, and

make the most of the abundant

fresh produce, including fish and

shellfish. For melt-in-your-mouth

sashimi, visit Sydney Fish Market

in Pyrmont, choose your fish

(tuna is a favourite) and watch the

fishmonger slice it for you before

feasting on it by the harbour. Joy.

Living in Sydney, I never took

for granted the fact that I could

finish work and head to the beach.

There are lots to choose from:

big, small, quiet, busy, surf or

harbourside. My favourite was

Clovelly – a tiny arc of sand framed

by huge rocks in the city’s eastern

suburbs. Bondi is of course the

most iconic and you can explore it

on one of Viking’s optional tours.

Another Viking excursion takes

you to the Blue Mountains, west

of Sydney. Named for the natural

blue haze from the eucalyptus trees

that carpet the region, its lush

forests are staggeringly beautiful,

and offer great walking. I used to

love visiting the Blue Mountains,

especially in wintertime in July

when the weather is cold and they

celebrate Christmas, complete with

a traditional Christmas lunch!

Within the city, the Royal

Botanic Gardens is a wonderful

oasis of plants and trees with

inspiring views over the harbour.

The natural world and the great

outdoors are never far away. This

is a city that has public barbeques

on the beaches and in the parks,

and where dining al fresco is the

norm, not the exception. Maybe

the sunshine is why Sydneysiders

are generally more relaxed and

carefree. That sense of fun cannot

help but rub off on you, and that is

what I love – and miss

– most about Sydney.

The optimism, the

humour and the

freedom that is part

of a can-do culture.

Fun and carefree,

Sydney is a city that

never takes itself too

seriously. It is a breath

of fresh air, in more

ways than one.

Clockwise, from

below: Ferries

berth in Circular

Quay; Sydney

excels with its

fresh fish and

shellfish; Cassie

never tired of the

iconic harbour



Explore the mighty Mississippi,

with Viking

Celebrated in history and culture, the Mississippi River winds its way through

America’s heartland, and Viking’s much-anticipated journeys along ‘Old Man

River’ bring you the best of this exciting region. Experience St. Louis’s pioneer

spirit and Natchez’ historic houses and southern hospitality. Stir your soul with

Delta blues and New Orleans jazz. Retrace the steps of Cherokee pathfinders,

Civil War soldiers and civil rights heroes. Savour Memphis barbeque, Gulf

seafood and Creole cuisine. Inspired by our Viking Longships® and ocean

ships, the brand-new Viking Mississippi is the most modern ship on the river.

Mark Twain said the Mississippi has ‘a new story to tell every day.’ Come and

create your own story with us, along this fabled river.

Eight-day 2022 & 2023 Mississippi river journeys from £3,990pp

Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom

on Heart of the Delta departing on 21 or 28 January 2023. Single supplements apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit

vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

VC_EM_Mississippi_A4_v4.indd 1 18/05/2020 14:20:48

Embark on the ultimate adventure

to the Arctic or Antarctica

Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign

and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent,

that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a

breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes

to see wildlife in its natural habitat.

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a

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scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378

guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is

limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate

adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

VC_Expeditions_Dec2019_A4_v7.indd 1 18/05/2020 15:21:33

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