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EXPLORE more<br />

See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2020</strong> £3.95<br />

MISSISSIPPI<br />

MAGIC<br />

Discover America’s heartland<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

• NEW EXPEDITIONS<br />

• TOP WILDLIFE TO SPOT<br />

BRIGHT<br />

LIGHTS<br />

A Nordic adventure<br />

to experience the<br />

northern lights


<strong>Explore</strong> the Galápagos Islands<br />

with Ecuador, Peru & Machu Picchu<br />

Embark on an extraordinary new journey to ancient worlds. From the Incan<br />

mysteries of Machu Picchu and the treasures of Peru and Ecuador, sail with a<br />

small group to the Galápagos Islands, one of the few places on Earth where<br />

human footprint is kept to a minimum. Here, in Charles Darwin’s living<br />

laboratory, come face to face with the unique wildlife that call these islands<br />

home, including giant tortoises, sea lions, iguanas, blue-footed boobies and<br />

penguins. Galápagos is one of the planet’s most isolated destinations. It is<br />

also one of its most awe-inspiring. Join us as we explore this truly remarkable<br />

destination, in a way that only Viking can.<br />

13 and 15-day 2022 journeys from £7,990pp<br />

Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk<br />

Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on<br />

a Wild Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru ocean cruise departing on 27 November 2022. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more<br />

information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.<br />

VC_EM_Galapagos_A4_v5.indd 1 18/05/<strong>2020</strong> 14:23:38


WELCOME<br />

Welcome to our summer edition of <strong>Explore</strong> <strong>More</strong><br />

We very much hope you will enjoy reading our latest edition and hope, in these unprecedented<br />

times, it might provide you with some escapism.<br />

To complement our expedition voyages to the Arctic and the Antarctic, we have announced<br />

that we will be venturing to the Galápagos Islands, where you will be able to learn about the<br />

unique flora and fauna of this fascinating region, as well as discovering Peruvian culture and the<br />

Inca treasures of Machu Picchu. And, from 2022, we will be expanding our river voyages into<br />

America’s heartland, along the iconic Mississippi River – featuring historical Civil War sites, rare<br />

wildlife, arts and music and a long chain of warm and welcoming towns and cities.<br />

For those of you who are keen cooks, we have some delicious French recipes to try at home,<br />

as well as plenty of new books to inspire your future travels. One of our travellers recalls the<br />

thrill of seeing the northern lights, and we delve into the history of intricate jewellery designs<br />

dating back to the Viking Age.<br />

We wish you all a wonderful summer ahead, and very much look forward to welcoming<br />

you on board again soon.<br />

With best wishes,<br />

Managing Director, Viking <strong>UK</strong><br />

P.S. We hope you’ve had a chance to look at Viking.TV – our exciting new online experience<br />

channel where you can view a range of content specially tailored to your interests.<br />

Tweet us:<br />

@VikingCruises<br />

Like us:<br />

facebook.com/VikingCruises<strong>UK</strong><br />

Follow us:<br />

instagram.com/vikingcruises<br />

<br />

Email us:<br />

uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com<br />

Find out more<br />

about the<br />

Viking <strong>Explore</strong>r<br />

Society<br />

on our website<br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 3


OFC_EM20_FINAL2.indd 1 22/05/<strong>2020</strong> 10:44<br />

08 70<br />

30<br />

58<br />

18<br />

16<br />

Contents<br />

IN THIS ISSUE...<br />

EXPLORE more<br />

See more of the world with Viking / <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2020</strong> £3.95<br />

MISSISSIPPI<br />

MAGIC<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

• NEW EXPEDITIONS<br />

• TOP WILDLIFE TO SPOT<br />

Discover America’s heartland<br />

BRIGHT<br />

LIGHTS<br />

A Nordic adventure<br />

to experience the<br />

northern lights<br />

Cover: Decorative balconies add even<br />

more colour to the historical buildings<br />

of New Orleans in the USA<br />

14 MISSISSIPPI MOMENTS History and culture unfold on<br />

this enriching river voyage across the United States<br />

18 BIG 15 The wildlife to spot on a Galápagos expedition<br />

25 DISCOVER THE GALÁPAGOS We delve into the<br />

highlights of a trip to experience the unique flora and fauna<br />

52 SPIRIT OF THE NORTH Combine epic scenery with<br />

Sámi legends on this iconic Norwegian adventure<br />

58 A TASTE OF FRANCE Cook up a classic French feast<br />

70 THE RHINE, RIVER OF LEGENDS A new series looking<br />

at the world’s great waterways starts with a European favourite<br />

74 MY SYDNEY The beaches, lifestyle and cuisine that<br />

make this city one of the best-loved places on the planet<br />

FEATURES<br />

08 MISSISSIPPI MAGIC An in-depth look at America’s<br />

great waterway to celebrate Viking’s new river voyages<br />

26 CARIBBEAN COOL Travel writer Gabrielle Sander<br />

reports back from her first ocean adventure<br />

36 BRIGHT LIGHTS Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by<br />

her parents as she seeks out the northern lights<br />

32 VIKING JEWELLERY Uncovering the artistry of the age<br />

44 TRUE NORTH We speak to the project curator of the<br />

British Museum’s new exhibition about Arctic culture and climate<br />

46 TOUR DE FORCE Lisa Small goes in search of<br />

enlightenment on Viking’s Grand European Tour<br />

56 A CITY TO SAVOUR What makes Lyon a must-see city<br />

62 THE NORWEGIAN SEA A deep dive into the ocean<br />

REGULARS<br />

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events<br />

7 YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests<br />

16 CASUAL CHIC Mix neutrals and prints for a capsule<br />

wardrobe that transitions from one season to the next<br />

30 CITY GUIDE: MIAMI The self-proclaimed cruise capital<br />

of the world wows with its art deco allure and Latin charm<br />

42 CITY GUIDE: TROMSØ What to see and do in<br />

Norway’s wonderful northern lights hotspot<br />

54 VIKING BOOK CLUB Reads to transport you overseas<br />

66 CITY GUIDE: VIENNA Baroque beauty meets cuttingedge<br />

cool in Austria’s culture-packed capital<br />

68 ON LOCATION WITH KARINE Executive Vice President<br />

Karine Hagen on new ways to stay connected and inspired<br />

4 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 5


Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes”<br />

photographed by Karine in the<br />

Umbrian Countryside<br />

COOKERY AND TRAVEL €20<br />

NEWS<br />

Viking NEWS<br />

A round-up of the latest travel news and<br />

events from the world of Viking<br />

STAR LETTER<br />

Dear Viking,<br />

Thought you might like to see a copy of<br />

a lovely birthday card I received on my<br />

81st birthday from a grand-daughter.<br />

The “hiking” refers to a job I did for<br />

about 25 years,<br />

leading walking<br />

holidays abroad,<br />

world-wide,<br />

until I was 76!<br />

Now hugely<br />

enjoying being<br />

looked after on<br />

all your splendid<br />

river cruises.<br />

THANK YOU!<br />

Anne R. Duke<br />

VIKING.TV<br />

We are excited to announce<br />

that earlier this year, in March,<br />

we launched a dedicated new<br />

digital platform to allow you<br />

to continue exploring the<br />

world with us.<br />

Daily live streaming is<br />

organised into Museum<br />

Mondays, Resident Historian<br />

Tuesdays, Arts & Music<br />

Wednesdays,<br />

Guest Speaker<br />

Thursdays,<br />

At Home at<br />

From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on<br />

her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of<br />

our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen<br />

tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary<br />

horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and<br />

fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.<br />

Highclere Fridays<br />

and Wellness<br />

Weekends. In<br />

addition to this,<br />

there are filmed<br />

messages from<br />

Viking Chairman<br />

The Kitchen Table A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD<br />

2 nd Edition<br />

The<br />

Kitchen<br />

Table<br />

A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD<br />

Torstein Hagen, personal<br />

videos made by onboard crew<br />

and exclusive musical concerts<br />

sent in from our onboard<br />

classical musicians.<br />

You can find recipes from<br />

around the world from our<br />

very own cookbook, The<br />

Kitchen Table, as well as<br />

a special area for children<br />

including quizzes and<br />

colouring activities.<br />

The schedule for<br />

the week ahead is<br />

shared every Monday,<br />

and as a result of the<br />

fantastically positive<br />

reception, Viking.TV<br />

will continue to create<br />

exciting content for<br />

the foreseeable future.<br />

YOUR PHOTOS #MyVikingStory<br />

YOUR MESSAGES<br />

Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images<br />

NEW<br />

I will never forget touching a<br />

wall of the Colosseum, closing<br />

my eyes and listening to history. If<br />

you haven't had an opportunity to<br />

experience this amazing place, do.<br />

Debbie Robles Birdsong<br />

FRONTIERS<br />

Stretching for 2,350 miles, from<br />

Minnesota's Lake Itasca to the<br />

Gulf of Mexico, our new cruises<br />

on the “Mighty Mississippi” offer<br />

a different type of cross-country<br />

journey for the curious explorer –<br />

one that allows you to be immersed<br />

in American history and culture.<br />

Our three new 8-day itineraries<br />

allow you to travel a section of<br />

the river: Heart of the Delta travels<br />

from New Orleans up to Memphis;<br />

America’s Heartland explores the<br />

Upper Mississippi, and Southern<br />

Celebration is a roundtrip from<br />

New Orleans. Or, over 15-days,<br />

you can explore the length of the<br />

Mississippi, from New Orleans<br />

to St. Paul (or in reverse), on the<br />

America’s Great River journey,<br />

which includes 11 guided tours.<br />

Meanwhile, to complement our<br />

expedition cruises to the Arctic<br />

and Antarctica, our guests will<br />

now be able to join small groups<br />

sailing to the captivating Galápagos<br />

Islands. Featuring fully guided<br />

land excursions, you will explore<br />

Charles Darwin’s living laboratory,<br />

witnessing the archipelago’s unique<br />

wildlife, including giant tortoises,<br />

sea lions, iguanas and penguins.<br />

The 15-day East Galápagos,<br />

Machu Picchu & Peru trip and the<br />

two new 13-day journeys – West<br />

Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru<br />

and Wild Galápagos, Machu<br />

Picchu & Peru – all explore Peruvian<br />

culture, Machu Picchu’s Inca<br />

treasures, as well as the volcanic<br />

coastline of the Galápagos region<br />

and its fascinating flora and fauna.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Clockwise, from top left:<br />

1. One of the most famous bridges not just<br />

in Venice, but in the world. GeofotoF<br />

2. Simply the best, waffles at Mamsen's on<br />

Viking Star. djthomashome<br />

3. Taken just before sunrise. My favourite<br />

day in the Falkland Islands. Carol Stafford<br />

4. They call it an Oreo cow. Photo taken in<br />

the Falkland Islands. dianneinlv<br />

5. Plotting our course through the Alaskan<br />

Inside Passage on Viking Orion in June 2019.<br />

sheiladavies_<br />

6. Budapest, Hungary. SashaEats<br />

Already booked the Mississippi!<br />

Doing the 15-day America's Great<br />

River. Only way to do it is with<br />

Viking. So looking forward to it.<br />

Ann Robinson Martin<br />

The Riesling soup recipe in The<br />

Kitchen Table cookbook is one<br />

of the best soups I've ever made!<br />

Kathleen Donahue Fowler<br />

We were fortunate enough to<br />

explore Highclere Castle as an<br />

extension of our Prague to Paris<br />

tour...Can't wait to get back to<br />

seeing the world, Viking-style.<br />

Ellie Kopnicky<br />

Viking is a class act!<br />

Jim Seeman<br />

Viking.TV is wonderful. Debbie<br />

Wiseman's composition for<br />

Viking, ‘The Traveller’, is beautiful.<br />

Rickie Cook<br />

6 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 7


TRAVEL<br />

This page:<br />

Viking Mississippi<br />

has been purpose<br />

built for this<br />

magical river<br />

MISSISSIPPI<br />

As Viking announces its expansion into the American interior, we take a<br />

look at some of the highlights that line the iconic Mississippi waterway<br />

8 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 9


TRAVEL<br />

A NEW ERA OF EXPLORATION<br />

Torstein Hagen,<br />

Chairman of Viking<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: An aerial<br />

view of Memphis;<br />

great egrets on<br />

a misty morning;<br />

relax and soak up<br />

the views in the<br />

<strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge<br />

From the headwaters in<br />

Minnesota to its delta in<br />

the Gulf of Mexico, the<br />

Mississippi River stretches<br />

for 2,350 miles and winds through<br />

America’s heartland.<br />

The river was formed when the<br />

last ice age ended, about 10,000<br />

years ago. Water from the melting<br />

ice sheet gathered in a vast network<br />

of north-to-south channels that<br />

carved out the Mississippi Valley.<br />

HISTORY<br />

Native Americans have lived<br />

along the Mississippi’s banks for<br />

thousands of years. First to use the<br />

river for commerce, the earliest<br />

Native Americans established a<br />

network of trade routes; later, large<br />

population centres, including a<br />

metropolis across from presentday<br />

St. Louis called Cahokia,<br />

were formed. And it was the<br />

Algonquian-speaking people<br />

who named the river: Misi-ziibi,<br />

roughly translated as the “Great<br />

River” or “Father of waters”.<br />

American history is bound<br />

with the Mississippi. When the<br />

Revolutionary War ended, the<br />

river became the new nation’s<br />

western border. That changed<br />

in 1803, when the Louisiana<br />

Purchase ceded control of the river<br />

– and the lands west of it – to the<br />

United States. New communities<br />

formed, supported by paddlewheel<br />

steamboats that facilitated<br />

commerce and transportation.<br />

Control of this valuable resource<br />

was critical for both sides during<br />

the Civil War.<br />

LOGISTICS<br />

Controlling the waterways that<br />

make up the Mississippi has<br />

challenged government leaders<br />

and the Army Corps of Engineers<br />

for more than 100 years. A system<br />

of 29 locks and dams in the Upper<br />

Mississippi help facilitate barge<br />

traffic and regulate water levels.<br />

And on the more heavily trafficked<br />

Lower Mississippi, the river is<br />

restrained by levees and dikes<br />

to help control seasonal flooding.<br />

Today the Mississippi remains<br />

one of the world’s hardest-working<br />

waterways, generating more than<br />

$400 billion in annual revenue,<br />

supporting 1.3 million jobs and<br />

powering local economies. Low<br />

barges transport cotton, grain and<br />

other agricultural products from<br />

the heartland. And revitalised<br />

riverfronts along the Mississippi<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

No other waterway<br />

has played such an<br />

important role in<br />

the country’s history,<br />

commerce and<br />

culture, which makes<br />

it the perfect setting<br />

for a collection of<br />

exciting new Viking<br />

itineraries which will be launching in 2022.<br />

Growing up in Norway, Torstein Hagen –<br />

the young boy who would one day become<br />

Viking Chairman – was inspired by Tom Sawyer<br />

and Huckleberry Finn’s adventures along the<br />

Mississippi River. And as a result, the area<br />

continued to interest him later in life.<br />

“When I was older and moved to America<br />

during my undergraduate studies, I became<br />

fascinated with the Upper Mississippi and<br />

the Midwest, a region so many Norwegian<br />

immigrants chose as their new home,” says<br />

Mr. Hagen. So it is fitting that Viking guests<br />

will now be able to explore the region.<br />

“These itineraries will offer a different kind of<br />

cross-country journey for the curious explorer –<br />

one that allows you to be immersed in American<br />

history and culture,” adds Mr. Hagen.<br />

From 2022, guests will be able to explore the<br />

Lower Mississippi by joining the 8-day Heart of<br />

the Delta trip, from New Orleans to Memphis,<br />

or the 8-day Southern Celebration roundtrip<br />

from New Orleans. The Upper Mississippi will<br />

be served by the America’s Heartland itinerary,<br />

an 8-day journey from St. Louis to St. Paul.<br />

And for travellers keen to explore the length<br />

of the waterway in its entirety, the epic 15-day<br />

America’s Great River covers the Mississippi<br />

from Minnesota to Louisiana.<br />

In addition to this, a new ship, Viking<br />

Mississippi, inspired by the award-winning Viking<br />

Longships and ocean vessels, will be built in the<br />

United States. Purpose-built for the Mississippi, it<br />

will feature sleek Scandinavian design, spacious<br />

staterooms, al fresco dining areas and extensive<br />

viewing areas, and will cater for 386 guests as<br />

they explore this endlessly-intriguing waterway.<br />

10 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 11


TRAVEL<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

far left: A wide<br />

stretch of the<br />

Mississippi River<br />

in Louisiana;<br />

colourful trolleys<br />

are a fun way to<br />

get around in<br />

New Orleans<br />

MISSISSIPPI CITIES<br />

Discover these picturesque destinations that have flourished and<br />

evolved on the banks of the mighty river<br />

provide new opportunities for<br />

tourism and commercial activities.<br />

This mighty river, with its<br />

unique history, heritage and<br />

culture, offers the ideal backdrop<br />

for a modern era of American<br />

exploration and discovery. Viking’s<br />

state-of-the-art new vessel, Viking<br />

Mississippi, has been designed<br />

specifically for this waterway and<br />

is the perfect home-from-home.<br />

BIODIVERSITY<br />

As one of the world’s major river<br />

systems in size, biological activity<br />

and habitat diversity, it is called<br />

the “Mighty Mississippi” for<br />

good reason. Bisecting America’s<br />

heartland, it serves as a natural<br />

border for 10 states and is home to<br />

360 species of fish, 326 species of<br />

birds, 145 species of amphibians<br />

and 50 species of mammals.<br />

With an abundance of<br />

migratory and year-round wildlife,<br />

ornithologists will love the range<br />

of birds to spot. The upper portion<br />

of the river is home to beavers and<br />

pelicans and the delta area features<br />

many endangered species such as<br />

the Louisiana black bear, the green<br />

sea turtle and piping plover, a small<br />

sand-coloured coastal bird. And<br />

secluded swamps are the perfect<br />

place to spot alligators.<br />

CULTURAL LEGACY<br />

The river’s cultural legacy has<br />

inspired artists and writers such as<br />

Maya Angelou, Tennessee Williams<br />

and Mark Twain, whose depictions<br />

of the Mississippi are a constant<br />

companion to his iconic hero,<br />

Huckleberry Finn.<br />

In his memoir about life as a<br />

steamboat pilot on the Mississippi<br />

River before the American Civil<br />

War, Twain observed, ‘it is not a<br />

commonplace river, but on the<br />

contrary is in all ways remarkable’.<br />

The concept of the river as a<br />

symbol of freedom and liberty has<br />

continued and is a theme running<br />

through many novels and historical<br />

non-fiction books today.<br />

Unique culinary traditions are<br />

also bountiful, from barbecue in<br />

St. Louis and Memphis, to Cajun<br />

and Creole in New Orleans. There<br />

are food options to delight every<br />

palate, and the welcoming fare is at<br />

the core of Mississippi culture and<br />

heritage. The community nature<br />

of the cuisine is evident in the<br />

number of heirloom recipes and<br />

family-run restaurants.<br />

And the river’s impact on<br />

American music styles – including<br />

Delta blues, jazz, gospel, country,<br />

folk and rock and roll – can be felt<br />

deep in the soul of the music which<br />

continues to evolve and delight.<br />

From 2022, Viking will operate a<br />

range of 8-day Mississippi river<br />

journeys.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY<br />

BATON ROUGE<br />

Capital of Louisiana, Baton Rouge<br />

paints a historic picture on the<br />

Mississippi’s eastern bank. Its<br />

remarkable cultural diversity is<br />

displayed in Cajun and Creole<br />

music, cuisine and arts.<br />

BURLINGTON<br />

Burlington grew into an economic<br />

powerhouse with the arrival of<br />

steamboats and the railroad.<br />

Today, it is home to numerous<br />

historic buildings including the<br />

art deco Capitol Theatre.<br />

DARROW<br />

The Lower Mississippi region is<br />

dotted with historic mansions,<br />

and Darrow is your gateway to<br />

these National Historic Landmarks<br />

renowned for their noted<br />

architecture and landscaping.<br />

DUBUQUE<br />

Dubuque is often called the<br />

“Masterpiece on the Mississippi”<br />

for its 19th-century ingenuity and<br />

modern-day cultural evolution.<br />

HANNIBAL<br />

Hannibal is the birthplace and<br />

childhood home of Samuel<br />

Langhorne Clemens, or Mark<br />

Twain, and the inspiration for his<br />

beloved stories of Tom Sawyer<br />

and Huckleberry Finn.<br />

LA CROSSE<br />

La Crosse enjoys a deep connection<br />

to the towering bluffs and rolling<br />

farmland of its Norskedalen,<br />

where a Norwegian immigrant<br />

population carved out a unique<br />

culture over generations.<br />

MEMPHIS<br />

Memphis is the celebrated<br />

birthplace of Memphis blues, a<br />

centre of civil rights history and<br />

home to Elvis Presley’s Graceland.<br />

NATCHEZ<br />

Natchez is home to one of the<br />

highest concentrations of historic<br />

Southern estates in the world;<br />

more than 200 perfectly preserved<br />

homes line its broad avenues.<br />

NEW ORLEANS<br />

Birthplace of American jazz, historic<br />

New Orleans exudes a festive<br />

atmosphere, especially in the French<br />

Quarter. The city’s French, African<br />

and other influences flavour its<br />

vibrant culture and Creole cuisine.<br />

QUAD CITIES<br />

Straddling the confluence of<br />

the Mississippi and Rock Rivers,<br />

the Quad Cities area rests amid<br />

“America’s Breadbasket” – the<br />

nation’s most expansive and<br />

scenic agricultural region.<br />

RED WING<br />

Red Wing, known for its<br />

American-made shoes and<br />

pottery, has a history of farming<br />

skills and craftsmanship brought<br />

by its New England, German, Irish<br />

and Scandinavian immigrants.<br />

ST. FRANCISVILLE<br />

Originally built on a narrow ridge<br />

overlooking the Mississippi, today<br />

St. Francisville boasts more than<br />

140 buildings on the National<br />

Register of Historic Places.<br />

ST. LOUIS<br />

Crossroads for 19th-century<br />

explorers, St. Louis is home to rich<br />

architectural treasures including<br />

the iconic Gateway Arch.<br />

ST. PAUL<br />

A base for westward settlers<br />

heading to the Dakotas, St. Paul<br />

is now a modern metropolis and<br />

the capital of Minnesota.<br />

VICKSBURG<br />

Vicksburg National Military Park<br />

commemorates the historic site of<br />

the Civil War’s most pivotal battle.<br />

The small town is the epitome of<br />

Southern heritage and charm.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

top left: Neon<br />

lights in the<br />

French Quarter<br />

of New Orleans;<br />

Jambalaya is a<br />

culinary highlight;<br />

the iconic Gateway<br />

Arch stands out<br />

in the St. Louis<br />

skyline<br />

12 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 13


ITINERARY<br />

MISSISSIPPI moments<br />

History and culture unfold as you cross the USA from<br />

north to south on this enriching river voyage<br />

Above: The<br />

downtown skyline<br />

of Minneapolis<br />

DAY 1 / ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA<br />

Arrive in St. Paul and transfer to your ship before<br />

exploring the city and its acclaimed arts scene.<br />

DAY 2 / RED WING, MINNESOTA<br />

Enjoy the scenic landscape of the Mississippi as you sail<br />

to Red Wing, the city named after a celebrated Sioux<br />

chief whose red-dyed swan wing indicated his rank.<br />

DAY 3 / LA CROSSE, WISCONSIN<br />

<strong>Explore</strong> La Crosse with its architectural landmarks and<br />

statue-lined riverfront or opt for a trip to rural Decorah.<br />

DAY 9 / LOWER MISSISSIPPI<br />

Cruising the serpentine route of the Lower Mississippi,<br />

witness an astonishing array of picturesque scenery.<br />

DAY 10 / MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE<br />

The ‘Queen City of the South’ is the birthplace of<br />

Memphis blues. Discover the music, cuisine and buzz<br />

of Beale Street and a tour of Elvis Presley’s Graceland.<br />

DAY 11 / LOWER MISSISSIPPI<br />

Enjoy another full day of scenic cruising; it’s the chance<br />

to participate in a cooking demo or attend a lecture.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

DAY 4 / DUBUQUE, IOWA<br />

Dubbed the ‘Masterpiece on the Mississippi’, this city<br />

immediately conjures up the great Steamboat Era.<br />

DAY 5 / QUAD CITIES, IOWA<br />

Straddling the Mississippi and Rock Rivers, the Quad<br />

Cities area sits amid ‘America’s Breadbasket’.<br />

DAY 6 / BURLINGTON, IOWA<br />

A Burlington tour reveals the city’s historic downtown<br />

and Snake Alley – ‘the crookedest street in the world’.<br />

DAY 7 / HANNIBAL, MISSOURI<br />

This community is best known as the birthplace of<br />

author Mark Twain and the setting of his Adventures of<br />

Tom Sawyer and Adventures of Huckleberry Finn books.<br />

DAY 8 / ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI<br />

Immerse yourself in the ‘Gateway to the West’ with<br />

its diverse array of architectural treasures.<br />

DAY 12 / VICKSBURG, MISSISSIPPI<br />

Feel the Southern tradition that flows through<br />

Vicksburg’s veins as you uncover its rich Civil War<br />

history and Southern heritage and charm.<br />

DAY 13 / NATCHEZ, MISSISSIPPI<br />

Natchez boasts an array of historic Southern mansions<br />

and is the perfect place to enjoy small-town America.<br />

DAY 14 / BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA<br />

Arrive in Baton Rouge, set on the eastern bank of the<br />

Mississippi River, and take a panoramic city tour.<br />

DAY 15 / NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA<br />

After breakfast, you’ll be escorted to the airport for<br />

your return flight.<br />

A 15-day 2023 America’s Great River journey,<br />

from St. Paul to New Orleans, or in reverse,<br />

starts from £9,590pp.<br />

14 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong>


2022<br />

DATES ARE<br />

NOW ON SALE<br />

2022 Viking river cruises now on sale.<br />

Eight days from £1,495pp<br />

With the world’s largest fleet of innovative river ships – including our multi-awardwinning<br />

Viking Longships – only Viking can promise you more. <strong>More</strong> comfort, more<br />

quality, more style and more choice of cruises across Europe, Russia and Asia. Relax in<br />

spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous, destination-inspired food<br />

and thoughtfully selected wines. <strong>Explore</strong> the cultures and customs of the places you<br />

visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.<br />

GREAT VIKING VALUE – SO MUCH INCLUDED<br />

P Return scheduled flights from London<br />

and a choice of up to 14 regional airports<br />

at no extra cost<br />

P River-view stateroom<br />

P All meals on board including wine, beer<br />

and soft drinks with lunch and dinner<br />

P Free Wi-Fi on board (connection speed<br />

may vary)<br />

P An included excursion in almost<br />

every port<br />

P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time<br />

on board<br />

P All port charges, government taxes<br />

and overseas transfers<br />

P Onboard gratuities<br />

2022 RIVER CRUISES<br />

Portugal’s River of Gold<br />

10 days, 8 guided tours<br />

Departing March to November 2022<br />

From £2,195pp<br />

Lyon & Provence<br />

8 days, 7 guided tours<br />

Departing March to November 2022<br />

From £1,595pp<br />

Rhine Getaway<br />

8 days, 6 guided tours<br />

Departing March to December 2022<br />

From £1,495pp<br />

Grand European Tour<br />

15 days, 12 guided tours<br />

Departing April to November 2022<br />

From £3,095pp<br />

Romantic Danube<br />

8 days, 5 guided tours<br />

Departing April to December 2022<br />

From £1,595pp<br />

Passage to Eastern Europe<br />

11 days, 7 guided tours<br />

Departing March to November 2022<br />

From £2,045pp<br />

Châteaux, Rivers & Wine<br />

8 days, 7 guided tours<br />

Departing March to November 2022<br />

From £1,595pp<br />

Elegant Elbe<br />

10 days, 7 guided tours<br />

Departing March to November 2022<br />

From £2,095pp<br />

Paris & the Heart of Normandy<br />

8 days, 6 guided tours<br />

Departing May to December 2022<br />

From £1,945pp<br />

Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest<br />

12 days, 9 guided tours<br />

Departing May to October 2022<br />

From £2,995pp<br />

Waterways of the Tsars<br />

13 days, 10 guided tours<br />

Departing May to October 2022<br />

From £3,095pp<br />

Pharoahs & Pyramids<br />

12 days, 11 guided tours<br />

Departing January to December 2022<br />

From £4,665pp<br />

Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk<br />

Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person<br />

and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates<br />

in 2022. Single supplements apply. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at<br />

the passengers own expense. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit<br />

vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.<br />

VC_EM_River_Multi_v2.indd 1 18/05/<strong>2020</strong> 14:45:56


Floppy hat<br />

Accessorize,<br />

£22.50<br />

Tote bag<br />

Accessorize,<br />

£29<br />

Patterned kaftan tunic<br />

Accessorize, £40<br />

Drop earrings<br />

Oliver Bonas, £29.50<br />

Hoop earrings<br />

Oliver Bonas, £24<br />

FASHION<br />

and for men...<br />

Nautical blues work well<br />

both at home and on holiday<br />

Knitted polo shirt<br />

Marks & Spencer, £35<br />

Denim shirt dress<br />

(from a selection<br />

at Bonprix)<br />

For women...<br />

Build a capsule wardrobe with a<br />

combination of neutrals and prints<br />

Messenger bag<br />

Burton, £40<br />

Saddle bag<br />

Marks & Spencer,<br />

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Shirt dress<br />

Monsoon, £60<br />

Casual<br />

Chic<br />

Invest in simple pieces that transition<br />

from one season to the next<br />

Knitted top<br />

Oliver Bonas, £49.50<br />

Shirt dress<br />

Marks & Spencer, £59<br />

Linen shorts<br />

Marks & Spencer, £29<br />

Printed shirt<br />

FatFace, £45<br />

Panama hat<br />

Marks & Spencer, £49<br />

Chinos and t-shirt<br />

(from a selection at FatFace)<br />

<strong>Summer</strong> jacket<br />

White Stuff, £65<br />

Embellished<br />

straw bag<br />

Accessorize, £40<br />

Braided belt<br />

Dune, £22<br />

Denim culottes<br />

White Stuff, £55<br />

Deck shoes<br />

Dune, £85<br />

Relaxed blouse<br />

Hobbs, £110<br />

Comfy trainers<br />

Marks & Spencer, £35<br />

Woven flats<br />

Dune, £85<br />

Casual trousers<br />

Monsoon, £45<br />

Shirt & holdall<br />

(from a selection<br />

at Barbour)


WILDLIFE<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

GIANT TORTOISE<br />

The Galápagos Giant<br />

Tortoise is a famous<br />

resident of the<br />

archipelago, with the<br />

name ‘Galápagos’ actually derived<br />

from the old Spanish word for<br />

tortoise. Arriving from South<br />

America around 2-3 million years<br />

ago, they morphed out into 15<br />

different species. The conservation<br />

status of the giant tortoise is<br />

endangered, particularly after<br />

the death of Lonesome George<br />

in 2012, the last Pinta tortoise,<br />

and now 10 live on the island.<br />

The tortoise can be divided into<br />

two main shell types, (domed and<br />

saddle-backed), and both spend a<br />

laidback life of around 16 hours a<br />

day resting, and eating grass, fruit<br />

and cactus pads.<br />

BIG 15<br />

GALÁPAGOS WILDLIFE<br />

Our pick of the Big 15 creatures to spot whilst on a<br />

voyage with Viking around the Galápagos Islands<br />

THE GALÁPAGOS<br />

ALBATROSS<br />

The Galápagos albatross is the<br />

largest bird in Galápagos with<br />

a spectacular wingspan of up to<br />

two and a half metres. Known<br />

for a brilliant yellow and almost<br />

comedic bill that appears too<br />

large for their bodies, beady eyes<br />

and a white breast, they are also<br />

nicknamed ‘the waved albatross’<br />

due to the wave-like pattern on<br />

their wings. Living high above the<br />

open waters of the surrounding<br />

ocean, the birds are fabulous<br />

gliders, but migrate around<br />

Colombia, Peru and Galápagos<br />

during the non-breeding and<br />

chick-rearing periods. Look out for<br />

their fascinating courtship dance.<br />

BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY<br />

Named for their distinctive blue webbed feet and<br />

coming from the Spanish word, ‘bobo’, meaning<br />

foolish, the blue footed booby is a much-loved marine<br />

bird native to subtropical regions of the eastern Pacific<br />

Ocean. During mating rituals, the male birds shows<br />

off their feet to potential mates with a high-step strut.<br />

The bluer the feet, the more attractive the mate! The<br />

booby also begins by presenting the female with a small<br />

stone. It is clear why the loveable bird fascinated Darwin<br />

during his 1835 Galápagos trip, with their loveable<br />

clumsiness on land and their agile swooping in the air.<br />

Research suggests that they have suffered large declines<br />

in recent years, with an estimated population of just<br />

6,400 birds in 2012. It is thought that this decline is<br />

related to a decline in clupeid fish, especially sardines,<br />

which the boobies need in large quantities.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

18 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 19


WILDLIFE<br />

RED-FOOTED BOOBY<br />

Distinguished by its bluey-purple<br />

rainbow-like beak and bright red<br />

feet, the red-footed booby is the<br />

smallest of the boobies. This seabird<br />

doesn’t migrate like its siblings, and<br />

lives year-round in tropical regions,<br />

but has an impressive ability to fly,<br />

travelling up to 90 miles in search of<br />

food. They hunt together, and have<br />

evolved to be able to snare flying fish<br />

from the air, or cleverly wrap their<br />

long wings around their bodies,<br />

enabling them to plunge into the<br />

water to hunt in search of fish.<br />

GALÁPAGOS FUR SEAL<br />

Noted for its long, humorous whiskers and slicked-back<br />

silvery fur, the Galápagos seal spends an idle life resting in<br />

the shade on the coastline, saving its reserves for hunting<br />

at night. Not to be mistaken for a Galápagos sea lion,<br />

they are far smaller with protruding eyes that make them<br />

excellent hunters – they are still able to keep a watchful<br />

eye out for sharks while seeking out their prey. They also<br />

avoid diving for food when a full moon is out, as they are<br />

more visible to sharks and their prey tends to move into<br />

deeper waters during this period of the lunar cycle.<br />

6FLIGHTLESS<br />

CORMORANT<br />

This fascinating species of<br />

seabird is one to look out for<br />

and is of particular interest to<br />

visitors to the Galápagos Islands<br />

because of its curious inability<br />

to fly. This means the species stays in the region<br />

year-round, occasionally diving to the ocean<br />

floor to hunt for food. According to scientific<br />

research, the bird has genetic anomalies which<br />

are also common among humans with rarer<br />

skeletal problems, meaning a gene mutation<br />

has left their short wings totally redundant,<br />

apart from helping them balance when hopping<br />

between rocks on the shoreline. Look out for<br />

flightless cormorant’s circular courtship dance.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

LAND IGUANA<br />

Lizards are often spotted on Galápagos,<br />

but this large lizard in particular thrives on<br />

the arid and dry areas of the islands. This type<br />

of lizard is characterised by the yellow white<br />

hue of its skin, with patches of black and brown.<br />

They have powerful legs and claws and look slightly<br />

intimidating as they scuttle along the shoreline, but<br />

they are mostly herbivore, enjoying prickly pear and fruit<br />

over other food. The population has undergone a drastic<br />

decline over recent years, but finches help them along the<br />

way, picking ticks from between their scales. Females travel far<br />

and wide to find the ideal nesting place to bury their eggs.<br />

AMERICAN<br />

FLAMINGO<br />

Standing out from the crowd, the<br />

American Flamingo is well known<br />

for its fluorescent pink feathers<br />

and long neck. Galápagos is home<br />

to a few hundred of this particular<br />

species, breeding in the archipelago<br />

and across the Caribbean, although<br />

the Galápagos version is significantly<br />

smaller than its Caribbean cousins,<br />

with smaller eggs. The bird is loved<br />

for its dramatic pink plumage and<br />

has inky black-tipped wings only<br />

visible in light. The colouring is down<br />

to their diet, and all flamingos have<br />

evolved an impressive way of feeding,<br />

shuffling their feet to disturb the<br />

ground before picking up their food<br />

with heads upside down in the water.<br />

In Galápagos, American flamingos can<br />

be found in lagoons close to beaches,<br />

but are difficult to spot. Look out for<br />

them from March to July when they<br />

nest and when they begin foraging.<br />

NAZCA BOOBY<br />

Another member of the booby<br />

family, the Nazca booby differs<br />

in appearance from its famous<br />

blue-footed sibling, with long<br />

yellow or orange beaks and a<br />

slightly larger size. You can spot<br />

the Nazca booby high above the<br />

ocean, where they hover from<br />

heights of up to 30 metres before<br />

spectacularly plunge-diving into<br />

the waters off the coast to catch<br />

their prey. Their diets are mostly<br />

made up of small fish, but they<br />

also have an appetite for flying<br />

fish, squid and anchovies.<br />

20 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 21


WILDLIFE<br />

10<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

PENGUIN<br />

This particular type of<br />

penguin is the most<br />

northerly found penguin<br />

and one of the smallest<br />

in the world. Located<br />

only on the Galápagos<br />

Islands, they are best spotted living right up on the<br />

northern tip of Isabela Island and make their homes<br />

by burrowing in the caves and crevices in the coastal<br />

lava. They are particularly agile underwater and<br />

have an impressive swimming capacity, reaching<br />

speeds of 35 km per hour when hunting for<br />

cold-water schooling fish to eat. Galápagos<br />

penguins are a loyal breed and mate for life,<br />

with the female laying between one and two<br />

eggs which hatch into dark brown chicks.<br />

SANTA FE<br />

LAND IGUANA<br />

Endemic to Sante Fe Island in<br />

Galápagos, this is a rarer subspecies<br />

of the land iguana. Unlike the other<br />

land iguanas roaming the rest of the<br />

Galápagos, this particular iguana is a<br />

paler yellow with a longer snout. Its<br />

more obscure colouring allows the<br />

Santa Fe land iguana to blend in with<br />

its surroundings, making it a hard target<br />

for predators, and for tourists, to spot.<br />

As a cold-blooded creature, it absorbs<br />

heat from the sunshine and at night<br />

carves burrows to capture the heat.<br />

A critically endangered animal, your<br />

best chance to see them in the wild is<br />

from the island of Espanola between<br />

April to June when eggs are laid.<br />

MARINE IGUANA<br />

15<br />

This curious creature is the only lizard in the world to be able to live and forage<br />

for prey at sea thanks to their powerful claws that grip onto rocks. Endemic to<br />

the region, there are six variations of this particular species that can be found<br />

dotted across different Galápagos Islands, some larger than others and some with<br />

different mating rituals, where they turn different colours, from reds and bright<br />

greens to red and black. In the mornings they can be found enjoying the<br />

GREAT AND MAGNIFICENT<br />

sunshine and absorbing the sun’s rays to give them energy for their long swims.<br />

FRIGATE BIRD<br />

The mating season spans from January to March.<br />

GALÁPAGOS HAWK<br />

An excellent predator and hunter, the<br />

Galápagos hawk is closely related to the<br />

red-backed and white-tailed hawks. One<br />

of the world’s rarest raptors, they have a<br />

vulnerable conservation status but are an<br />

impressive spot if you manage to catch<br />

one, with an adult having a wingspan of<br />

120cm. Adults can be recognised by their<br />

dark feathers, chicks by their pale plumage,<br />

and the females are larger than their male<br />

counterparts. Famed as scavengers across<br />

the island, they feed off carcasses using their<br />

strong beaks for pecking.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

SEA LION<br />

A common sight on the Galápagos<br />

Islands, the Galápagos sea lion is<br />

widespread along the coast. Often found lazing on<br />

the shoreline, swimming just off the coast, and,<br />

thanks to their pelvic girdle, they can be spotted<br />

exhibiting their charismatic gallop at a surprisingly<br />

fast speed. They primarily breed in Galápagos and<br />

so it is from here that you can witness their sexual<br />

dimorphism first-hand. Males weigh a dramatic fourtimes<br />

that of females and use this size advantage to<br />

maintain territorial dominance, mating with various<br />

females by keeping hold of land. The mating season<br />

happens between July and December.<br />

Dubbed ‘the condor of the oceans’<br />

by Charles Darwin because of their<br />

impressive ability to spend days at<br />

a time out at sea, and with their<br />

dramatic wingspan, this seabird<br />

certainly lives up to its name.<br />

It’s the shape of this curious bird<br />

that gives them exceptional aerial<br />

manoeuvrability and allows them<br />

to glide. They are also nick-named<br />

‘pirate birds’ because of their habit<br />

of stealing food from other birds<br />

including the beloved boobies and<br />

forcing them to regurgitate their<br />

food by shaking their tail feathers<br />

vigorously. The bird’s main aesthetic<br />

attribute is its large red throat pouch<br />

which inflates during breeding season<br />

with the hope of attracting a mate.<br />

22 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 23


<strong>Explore</strong> the Great Lakes and Canada,<br />

on expedition ships designed for discovery<br />

The Great Lakes are an undiscovered treasure, boasting stunning national parks,<br />

in a region that is rich in culture and history.<br />

Here, you can experience a deep connection to nature in a genuinely remote wilderness.<br />

Watch for wildlife, from bald eagles to moose, grey wolves, bears and beavers. Reach across<br />

cultures with the First Nations’ people. Hike through pristine forests, and glide silently by<br />

kayak across Georgian Bay – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Discover Canada’s colonial past<br />

and beautiful lakeshores. Visit the majestic Niagara Falls, all accompanied by expert guides.<br />

Viking offers a choice of inspiring new journeys around the Great Lakes, as well as voyages to<br />

the Arctic and Antarctica.<br />

To enable you to best explore the Great Lakes, we have assembled a world-class expedition<br />

team to lead you on engaging shore landings and esteemed scientific partnerships to deliver<br />

enriching programmes.<br />

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis are home to just 378 guests<br />

and guild on our legacy of exploration with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we<br />

are new taking bookings for our 2022 itineraries. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard<br />

an expedition ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.<br />

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our<br />

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the<br />

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk<br />

VC_Oceans_Lakes_Jan<strong>2020</strong>_A4_v6.indd 1 18/05/<strong>2020</strong> 15:43:43


ITINERARY<br />

Andean adventure<br />

Uncover the mysteries of South America’s most captivating<br />

destinations on this immersive cruise-and-stay adventure<br />

Above: Tick<br />

Machu Picchu off<br />

your bucket list on<br />

a Viking voyage<br />

DAY 1 & 2 / LIMA, PERU<br />

Arrive in Lima and settle into your hotel. The following<br />

day, discover the capital’s colonial centre, the Baroque<br />

Lima Cathedral and the Palace of the Archbishop.<br />

DAY 3 & 4 / SACRED VALLEY, PERU<br />

Fly into the Sacred Valley and immerse yourself in local<br />

life. On day four hike to the ruins at Ollantaytambo, see<br />

Moray’s crop circle and admire the salt pans at Maras.<br />

DAY 5 / MACHU PICCHU, PERU<br />

An exciting rail journey through the Andean hills awaits<br />

today. Alight in Aguas Calientes and continue on to<br />

Machu Picchu, the iconic lost city of the Incas.<br />

DAY 6 / MACHU PICCHU & CUZCO, PERU<br />

<strong>Explore</strong> more of Machu Picchu on a hike or take a tour<br />

of a nearby tea plantation. In the afternoon, transfer<br />

via train to Cuzco, the historic capital of the Inca.<br />

DAY 10 / SAN CRISTÓBAL ISLAND,<br />

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

Visit the Cerro Colorado Tortoise Breeding Center, then<br />

cruise to Punta Pitt to see blue-footed boobies.<br />

DAY 11 / SANTA FE ISLAND & SOUTH<br />

PLAZA ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

Seek out the primeval-looking Santa Fe land iguana<br />

before cruising to South Plaza Island in the afternoon.<br />

DAY 12 / SANTA CRUZ ISLAND,<br />

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

A fascinating trip to the Charles Darwin Research<br />

Station is followed by lunch at a local farm.<br />

DAY 13 / ESPAÑOLA ISLAND,<br />

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

Keep an eye out today for Española mockingbirds, lava<br />

lizards, Darwin’s three finches and marine iguanas.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

DAY 7 / CUZCO, PERU<br />

Visit wonderful sites like Cuzco Cathedral, the Temple<br />

of Koricancha and the fortress of Sacsayhuamán.<br />

DAY 8 / GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR<br />

Catch a flight to Guayaquil, the gateway to the<br />

Galápagos Islands and a vibrant riverside city.<br />

DAY 9 / BALTRA & MOSQUERA ISLET,<br />

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

Embark the 90-guest ship Santa Cruz II and cruise to<br />

Mosquera Islet for a chance to spot sea lions.<br />

DAY 14 / EDEN ISLET & NORTH<br />

SEYMOUR ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS<br />

ISLANDS<br />

Kayak or snorkel around the marine-rich coast of Eden<br />

Islet. <strong>More</strong> wildlife awaits on North Seymour Island.<br />

DAY 15 / BALTRA, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS<br />

& QUITO, ECUADOR<br />

Disembark in Baltra before flying home from Quito.<br />

The 15-day 2021 & 2022 East Galápagos, Machu<br />

Picchu & Peru voyage starts from £8,790pp.<br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 25


TRAVEL<br />

This page, from<br />

left to right: Key<br />

West in Florida;<br />

Cuban influences<br />

are everywhere in<br />

the Florida Keys<br />

archipelago<br />

Caribbean<br />

cool<br />

Travel writer and river cruising fan<br />

Gabrielle Sander reports back from<br />

her first ocean adventure<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

It is a year since I took my<br />

first cruise; an eight-day trip<br />

along the Rhine, from Basel to<br />

Amsterdam, on board Viking<br />

Eir. It’s one I’ve waxed lyrical about<br />

to many since, as well as in this very<br />

magazine. Aside from introducing<br />

me to a generous and picturesque<br />

portion of Western Europe,<br />

it opened my eyes to a way of<br />

travelling I’d previously filed under<br />

‘things to do when I retire’.<br />

I fell in love with the ease of<br />

sailing from one port to the next; a<br />

new town, city or country each day.<br />

Such a romantic, easy way to travel.<br />

Country-hopping without having<br />

to hire a car, board planes, or lug a<br />

suitcase onto different trains.<br />

It helped that my vessel was sleek<br />

and smooth-sailing (sometimes I’d<br />

look out the window just to see if<br />

we were actually moving); quiet,<br />

with only 190 passengers, and lowlevel,<br />

so we could cruise close to<br />

land and dock moments from the<br />

sightseeing action. It also helped<br />

that everything was on point, from<br />

the initial welcome to the smooth<br />

operation of the excursions, and<br />

sweet touches such as the plump<br />

strawberries left in our stateroom<br />

one morning. Just like that, my<br />

love of cruising was sparked.<br />

So, when it came to joining<br />

my first Viking ocean cruise –<br />

Turquoise Caribbean Seas, starting<br />

and finishing in Miami – I was<br />

excited, but also unsure whether<br />

I’d enjoy it as much: how would<br />

the cosy nature of the ship work<br />

on a larger scale, and would the<br />

personable nature of the river cruise<br />

translate to an ocean cruise?<br />

Well, that hesitation passed<br />

within five minutes of boarding<br />

Viking Sky. The welcome,<br />

the sunny spaces and cool<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

FIVE TIPS<br />

FOR VIKING<br />

OCEAN<br />

CRUISERS<br />

Download the Viking<br />

Voyager app. Not only<br />

is it an easy way to<br />

keep track of activities<br />

and excursions, but<br />

you can use your<br />

headphones to follow<br />

the Viking Art Guide,<br />

a self-guided tour of<br />

the artwork on board.<br />

An apple a day<br />

keeps the doctor<br />

away, as the adage<br />

goes. Green apples<br />

are also packed<br />

with vitamins,<br />

antioxidants and<br />

fibre. You’ll find<br />

bowls of them at<br />

Guest Services.<br />

Clockwise from<br />

above: Lamanai<br />

Mayan Ruins in<br />

Belize; dine al<br />

fresco as the<br />

sun sets; the<br />

impressive Fort<br />

Jefferson in<br />

Florida; afternoon<br />

tea served in the<br />

Wintergarden<br />

Scandinavian décor – it was all<br />

comfortingly familiar, but bigger<br />

and beautifully finished. Rather<br />

than taking a couple of days to<br />

unwind into my temporary home,<br />

as is often the case when I travel,<br />

I relaxed immediately. It is of<br />

course a much larger vessel than<br />

the Viking Longship on which<br />

I traversed the Rhine, and at<br />

full 930-guest capacity, is home<br />

to considerably more people.<br />

However, with plenty of indoor<br />

and outdoor nooks to lounge in, it<br />

never felt busy, except the queue for<br />

the ice-cream at lunchtime, which<br />

is a given. It is very good ice-cream!<br />

The <strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge featured<br />

drawers of curiosities to pull open<br />

and peruse and the Atrium, with<br />

hundreds of books lining the<br />

shelves, offered up the novel I’ve<br />

been meaning to read for ages,<br />

travel tales and foodie tomes to<br />

thumb through. Like the river<br />

cruise, the library is curated to suit<br />

the audience and destinations.<br />

I sampled the various places to<br />

eat and drink, all free from the set<br />

time slots and group tables that are<br />

experienced on other ocean cruises.<br />

That I could rock up at Italian<br />

restaurant Manfredi’s at 7.30pm,<br />

book in hand, and enjoy a plate<br />

of their freshly-rolled gnocchi al<br />

gorgonzola at a table for one if I so<br />

pleased, was bliss. That there was<br />

also ample opportunity to chat<br />

to fellow guests, say, in the buzzy<br />

Wintergarden during afternoon tea,<br />

was equally lovely. As solitary or<br />

sociable as you want it.<br />

I continued my ship recce,<br />

checking out the LivNordic Spa,<br />

which looked straight out of the<br />

pages of a wellness magazine,<br />

and includes a Snow Grotto that<br />

dumps fresh powder daily to<br />

melt onto your limbs before<br />

and after the sauna (a great<br />

circulation-booster). There was<br />

also a sea-facing, floor-to-ceiling<br />

windowed gym, an outdoor<br />

infinity pool and hot tub at the<br />

back of the ship, without the rowdy<br />

pool bar, that would usually put me<br />

off. The cinema, where the smell<br />

of popcorn wafts beckoningly<br />

around movie start time, offers<br />

the latest blockbusters.<br />

Getting acquainted with the ship<br />

on that inaugural walk around, my<br />

first thought was, ‘wow, this place<br />

is amazing – like a floating 5-star<br />

hotel’; my second: ‘how am I going<br />

to find time to enjoy it all?’<br />

PHOTOS: © VIKING; ISTOCK<br />

It’s almost as if the Viking gods<br />

heard this and summoned an extra<br />

sea day. That first afternoon, not<br />

long after boarding in Miami,<br />

the captain announced that our<br />

planned port stop, Key West,<br />

scheduled for the next morning,<br />

had been cancelled. The seas were<br />

too rough for us to dock safely,<br />

so we were heading straight to<br />

planned port two, Belize, with<br />

two days at sea in between.<br />

The conch train tour of<br />

Key West and visit to Ernest<br />

Hemingway’s former home,<br />

with its polydactyl cats, would have<br />

to wait. It was an unfortunate yet<br />

understandable blip, but it<br />

did mean more time to enjoy<br />

the sleek Scandi playground, the<br />

sunshine on deck, coffee and cake<br />

at Mamsen’s, or the superb display<br />

of original art, including a<br />

large collection of Edvard Munch.<br />

I enjoyed a Nordic Hair Ritual,<br />

a blissful 80 minutes involving<br />

exquisitely-scented Swedish<br />

products featuring cloudberries<br />

and blueberries.<br />

Those sea days passed in<br />

a blissfully laid-back bubble<br />

starting with sunrise laps along<br />

the promenade and ending with<br />

sundowners and early dinners.<br />

Then, with a burst of colour<br />

came our arrival into Belize. The<br />

itinerary was back on track, with<br />

Cozumel, Merida and the Gulf of<br />

Mexico, providing the views and<br />

entertainment over the final days.<br />

As for the missed stop, we were<br />

thrilled when our captain made a<br />

surprise call into Key West on the<br />

loop back to Miami.<br />

Hidden behind<br />

bright orange<br />

doors at Manfredi’s<br />

is a private dining<br />

room. Anyone can<br />

book and have<br />

dinner in there,<br />

at no additional<br />

charge. Perfect for<br />

special occassions.<br />

Don’t miss our sushi<br />

and seafood bar<br />

in the World Café.<br />

You can pick from<br />

a variety of freshly<br />

prepared sushi and<br />

crab. Plus, an Asian<br />

wok station adds<br />

to the international<br />

flavours on offer.<br />

The enrichment<br />

talks with visiting<br />

historians and<br />

other experts are<br />

usually in the<br />

afternoon. But<br />

you can catch-up<br />

later, at a time that<br />

suits you, via your<br />

stateroom TV.<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

Miami<br />

Self-proclaimed cruise capital of the world,<br />

travellers flock to Miami to soak up the sunshine,<br />

art deco architecture and Latin American<br />

influenced culture<br />

Since the 1950s, when<br />

wealthy Cubans escaped<br />

Fidel Castro’s revolution,<br />

Miami has been a beacon<br />

for Hispanic people,<br />

earning its nickname the ‘Capital<br />

of Latin America’. A tour of Little<br />

Havana is a must and will help<br />

you find the highlights, such as the<br />

Cubaocho Museum & Performing<br />

Arts Center – a gallery and bar<br />

dedicated to the history of Cuba.<br />

Next up head to the Wynwood<br />

neighbourhood to see the incredible<br />

street art on the famous Wynwood<br />

Walls. In the evening visit the<br />

Bayside Marketplace for views of<br />

the city’s iconic skyline and port.<br />

At Miami Beach, cycle along<br />

the renowned Ocean Drive taking<br />

in art deco hotels and apartments,<br />

or join a walking tour of the art<br />

deco district around South Beach.<br />

Relax on the beautiful white sands<br />

or amble along the Miami Beach<br />

Boardwalk to appreciate the ocean<br />

view away from the buzz of traffic.<br />

Historic, Spanish-inspired Espanola<br />

Way, a pedestrianised street<br />

thronging with the Miami vibe, is a<br />

lively place to visit in the evening.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

•Built in 1916, Vizcaya Museum<br />

and Gardens is a mansion built<br />

in the Italian Renaissance style.<br />

Wander in the formal gardens and<br />

fountains, and enjoy the original<br />

artwork and furnishings inside.<br />

•Stroll out to the tip of South<br />

Pointe Park Pier for fabulous views<br />

of Downtown Miami’s skyline and<br />

the gleaming South Beach. Go in<br />

the late afternoon and linger for the<br />

sunset before heading to Collins<br />

Avenue for drinks and to experience<br />

that famous Miami nightlife.<br />

•Miami has the third tallest<br />

skyline in the US, so why not jump<br />

on board the free Metromover<br />

monorail for a tour through<br />

the impressive skyscrapers of<br />

Downtown. South of here is the<br />

pretty and popular Bayfront Park.<br />

•The Art Basel fair hosts a huge<br />

range of modern and contemporary<br />

art across the city every September,<br />

but works from the likes of Andy<br />

Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat,<br />

Cindy Sherman, Jeff Koons and<br />

Damien Hirst at the impressive<br />

Rubell Family Collection can be<br />

enjoyed year round.<br />

•Lincoln Road is a must-visit<br />

for travellers into shopping and<br />

culture. Architect Morris Lapidus<br />

redesigned the street in the 1960s<br />

giving it a unique style. Now a<br />

pedestrian hub, it bustles with<br />

people enjoying the sculptures,<br />

fountains, theatres and art galleries.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Miami’s<br />

South Beach has<br />

over 800 art deco<br />

buildings; one of<br />

the city’s iconic<br />

lifeguard huts<br />

Fast Facts<br />

•Miami was an obscure swampland<br />

before visionary Julia Tuttle<br />

inherited land in the southern<br />

Florida backwater and took up<br />

residence here in 1891. Through<br />

her contacts she was responsible for<br />

the arrival of the railroad.<br />

•Miami gets its name from the<br />

Mayaimi tribe who lived here in the<br />

16th and 17th centuries.<br />

•Miami has the second largest<br />

number of Spanish speakers in<br />

the US, and 70% of inhabitants<br />

are of Hispanic origin.<br />

•Locals enjoy cafecito (Cuban<br />

coffee) served from walk-up<br />

ventanitas windows. Try one<br />

yourself for a strong, sweet hit.<br />

•Man-made Neptune Memorial<br />

Reef, near Biscayne Bay, is an<br />

artistic replica of the Lost City of<br />

Atlantis. You can even go diving.<br />

•Look out for one of the many<br />

annual street festivals and parades.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Insider Tips<br />

INNOVATIVE ART<br />

Head north to the often<br />

overlooked Museum of<br />

Art and Design housed in<br />

the Freedom Tower, a 1925<br />

masterpiece built in the<br />

Mediterranean revival<br />

style and arguably a work<br />

of art itself.<br />

EASY AS PIE<br />

No trip to Florida is<br />

complete without trying<br />

some Key Lime Pie. For a<br />

slice of the best, head to<br />

Joe’s Stone Crab which,<br />

trading in the city since<br />

1913, is now something of<br />

a Miami institution.<br />

SHIP AHOY<br />

From Miami Beach to South<br />

Miami, there are plenty<br />

of local area marinas to<br />

visit. Each one has its own<br />

identity, and many offer<br />

waterside restaurants,<br />

perfect for watching the<br />

world go by.<br />

TIME TRAVEL<br />

Miami’s splendid Ancient<br />

Spanish Monastery recalls<br />

the city’s past as a Spanish<br />

territory. It was built in<br />

Spain in the 12th century,<br />

disassembled and brought<br />

to Miami by newspaper mogul<br />

William Randolph Hearst.<br />

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CULTURE<br />

VIKING<br />

JEWELLERY<br />

An intricate cultural history<br />

In celebration of our Norwegian heritage, we take a closer look at<br />

the traditional skills and artistry shown in these intricate designs<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from left: The<br />

earliest jewellery<br />

style is named<br />

after the famous<br />

Oseberg ship; an<br />

ornamental silver<br />

brooch, used here<br />

to fasten a cloak<br />

The Vikings were much<br />

more than legendary<br />

seafaring explorers.<br />

A closer look at their<br />

jewellery reveals a high level of<br />

artistic skill and a fascinating<br />

design vocabulary<br />

that evolved over<br />

the duration of the<br />

Viking Era, which<br />

historians agree is<br />

roughly the period<br />

from 789-1066 AD.<br />

The high volume of fine silver<br />

jewellery recovered from burial<br />

hordes across Europe suggests that<br />

silver coinage obtained through<br />

trade was melted down and used<br />

as adornments. Worn by men and<br />

women, these indicated social status<br />

and wealth, and may also have<br />

functioned as amulets.<br />

As the Viking Age progressed,<br />

the style of the designs changed.<br />

Historians generally classify Viking<br />

artefacts into six styles named<br />

after the area where a pivotal<br />

decorative object was unearthed.<br />

The majority of the artefacts are made of<br />

metal and stone, although rarer items made<br />

of bone and wood have been preserved<br />

Throughout the time period, design<br />

styles sometimes co-existed side<br />

by side or were even combined in<br />

a single piece and some artefacts<br />

demonstrate a melding of Viking<br />

designs with those of other cultures.<br />

The earliest recognisable<br />

style, dating to the 9th century,<br />

is known as Oseberg style and<br />

features sinuous animal forms<br />

and a gripping beast motif – a<br />

hallmark design element that<br />

appears well into the next century.<br />

The style’s name references the<br />

famous Oseberg ship, found in a<br />

large burial mound<br />

in Norway, which is<br />

currently on display<br />

at the Viking Ship<br />

Museum in Oslo.<br />

From the late<br />

9th century and<br />

continuing to the middle of the<br />

10th century, a new set of designs<br />

known as Borre style emerges. We<br />

continue to see the gripping beast,<br />

but the once-sinuous feel of the<br />

Oseberg creatures has shifted to<br />

triangular-headed animals with<br />

round eyes and protruding ears.<br />

Named for a set of bridle mounts<br />

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CULTURE<br />

recovered from a ship burial site in<br />

Borre, Norway, this style appears<br />

to be purely Norse, and shows up<br />

in finds from countries including<br />

Iceland, Russia and England.<br />

Jelling style, from the 10th<br />

century, is named after the two<br />

massive carved runestones found<br />

in Jelling, Denmark. The carvings<br />

on these huge rocks feature stylistic<br />

S-shaped, intertwined animal forms<br />

with profiled heads and spiral hips<br />

as well as pigtails.<br />

The decorated stones were<br />

commissioned by two kings as<br />

memorials – King Gorm the Old<br />

honoured his wife, Thyra, and<br />

his son, Harald Bluetooth, raised<br />

the larger stone in memory of his<br />

parents, his conquest of Denmark<br />

and Norway, and his conversion<br />

of the Danes to Christianity. The<br />

patterns were much copied, and<br />

appeared on decorative items<br />

throughout this period.<br />

Developing out of the Jelling<br />

style, the Mammen style was<br />

prominent in the last half of<br />

the 10th century, and features<br />

naturalistic lions, birds, snakes and<br />

foliate elements. The style is named<br />

after an axe head found in a burial<br />

site in Mammen, in Denmark.<br />

The first half of the 11th century<br />

is represented by Ringerike style<br />

– an era in which standing stones<br />

were often carved featuring curvy,<br />

thin animals such as lion-like beasts<br />

with almond-shaped eyes and thin,<br />

long tendrils on plant motifs and<br />

leafy, floral patterns.<br />

Finally, from 1050 to the 12th<br />

century, Urnes style becomes<br />

regarded as the ultimate expression<br />

of Viking art. Named after the<br />

carvings that adorn the northern<br />

gate of the Urnes stave church in<br />

Norway, this style boasts sinous,<br />

interlaced and interwoven animals<br />

with long eyes, serpent-like<br />

creatures, and plants.<br />

The majority of artefacts related<br />

to these chronological phases of<br />

Scandinavian jewellery art are<br />

made of metal or stone, although<br />

some rarer items fashioned from<br />

bone, wood, ivory and even textiles,<br />

have also been preserved. Ongoing<br />

archaeological finds continue to<br />

add to our understanding of this<br />

fascinating evolution of style<br />

and craftsmanship.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Bunads<br />

(national folk<br />

costumes) are<br />

adorned with<br />

traditional Viking<br />

jewellery; motifs<br />

and forms used for<br />

figureheads also<br />

appear in Viking<br />

jewellery<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

SKANE HAMMER PENDANT<br />

10th century, Skane, Sweden<br />

This clean-lined, elegant pendant is an<br />

anthropomorphic Thor’s hammer. The<br />

powerful god of thunder, Thor was one of<br />

the primary characters in Norse mythology<br />

and his hammer form appears frequently<br />

throughout the Viking Age.<br />

VÅRBY BROOCH<br />

10th century, Vårby Hoard, Sweden<br />

This disc-shaped pin from one of Sweden’s<br />

most magnificent hoards is loaded with<br />

ornamentation, complete with faces and<br />

entwined knots. These brooches appear to<br />

be an eastern Scandinavian phenomenon,<br />

used to fasten women’s cloaks.<br />

BRISINGAMEN NECKLACE<br />

11-12th century, Gotland, Sweden<br />

Viking artisans played the smoothness<br />

of rock crystal spheres off against the<br />

knubby texture of tiny granulated dots to<br />

beautiful effect in this necklace. It shows<br />

the continued use of granulation – tiny<br />

little dots created by heating metal until it<br />

clings to itself forming a ball – which is a<br />

consistent technique in Viking jewellery.<br />

The evolution of<br />

VIKING STYLE<br />

These beautiful examples of jewellery dating to the Viking Age<br />

demonstrate the progression of techniques and design<br />

DRAGON HEAD PIN<br />

circa 900 AD, Birka, Sweden<br />

Dragon head pins have been found<br />

throughout the historic Viking world, and<br />

are similar to iconic carved Viking ship<br />

figureheads. A soapstone casting mold<br />

for a similar pin was found in Sweden,<br />

suggesting that they could be reproduced.<br />

BORRE TREFOIL<br />

9-10th century<br />

Borre-style jewellery features interlacing<br />

knots or animals, like this version’s<br />

“gripping beast”design. The style was<br />

named after a group of harness mounts<br />

recovered from a ship grave<br />

near Borre, Norway.<br />

ROSCREA BROOCH<br />

late 9th century, Tipperary, Ireland<br />

This pin demonstrates the melding of<br />

Irish and Viking influences. The use of<br />

quality silver (rare in Ireland, but accessible<br />

through trade to the Vikings) and amber<br />

from the Baltic are distinctly Viking, yet<br />

the gold filigree work, abstract patterns<br />

and Book of Kells-like animals are basic<br />

to the Irish visual vocabulary.<br />

HATTEBERG BROOCH<br />

9th century, Hatteberg, Norway<br />

The penannular form is a very old style of<br />

brooch worn by both men and women.<br />

This example demonstrates Celtic<br />

influence, but the pin is Nordic in origin,<br />

suggesting that Viking Age artisans were<br />

familiar with styles across the North Sea.<br />

LUNETTE PENDANT<br />

10-11th century, Gnezdovo, Russia<br />

This crescent pendant with elaborate<br />

granulation work, a woman’s adornment,<br />

is from one of the major Varangian<br />

centres in Kievan Rus territory along<br />

the trade route from Scandinavia<br />

to the Byzantium.<br />

URNES STYLE BROOCH<br />

circa 1100 AD, Tröllaskógur, Iceland<br />

This brooch epitomises late Urnes Style<br />

in its sinuous, interwoven loops. Depicting<br />

a group of stylised, entwined serpentlike<br />

creatures with elongated eyes, it<br />

demonstrates the sophisticated styling of<br />

the late Viking Age through its interplay<br />

of writhing forms counterpointed<br />

against the negative space.<br />

34 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong>


TRAVEL<br />

Bright<br />

lights<br />

Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by her parents<br />

on an adventure to the Arctic Circle in a bid to<br />

witness the northern lights<br />

This page:<br />

The northern<br />

lights glow<br />

spectacularly<br />

over the Lofoten<br />

Islands in Norway


TRAVEL<br />

My fasther (John, 69) and I have been<br />

talking about a trip to the Arctic for<br />

the past decade, but my mother<br />

(Carole, 70) has dodgy knees so we<br />

did not think such a physically demanding expedition<br />

would be possible.<br />

However, when I learned that Viking was cruising<br />

up the coast of Norway looking for the northern lights<br />

it seemed an ideal solution, giving us all the chance<br />

to be as adventurous or relaxed as we felt like.<br />

Our 13-day journey would begin in Bergen, then<br />

cross the Arctic circle to Narvik before venturing<br />

further up to the world’s most northerly city, Alta. The<br />

return would see us pass through Tromsø, Bodø and<br />

Stavanger, before sailing home to Tilbury in London.<br />

On the first day, I spent a peaceful evening sipping<br />

bellinis in the beautiful <strong>Explore</strong>rs’ Lounge, while<br />

my parents arrived on board later that evening to<br />

Yet even without the northern lights the scenery is<br />

spectacular. We left Bergen on a sunny afternoon after<br />

spending a relaxing morning listening to a piano recital<br />

at the home of Edvard Grieg, and our first chance to<br />

explore the sleepy snow-dusted Arctic wilderness came<br />

at Narvik, the little shipping port which saw the first<br />

victory against the Nazis in the Second World War.<br />

My dad and I chose to visit the nearby 110-acre<br />

Polar Park, home to lynx, wolverine, brown bears,<br />

musk ox, elk and, most excitingly, wolves. Wolves<br />

that can be petted.<br />

So on a bitterly cold January morning, we found<br />

ourselves kneeling in their enclosure, gloveless and<br />

hatless (wolves will pilfer anything that isn’t firmly<br />

attached to your body) awaiting the pack.<br />

Sadly the wolves seemed uninterested in hanging<br />

out with a semi-circle of shivering humans, but<br />

luckily the keeper had a trick up her sleeve.<br />

Opposite: Sarah<br />

Knapton’s holiday<br />

photos capture<br />

the essence of<br />

Norway in winter,<br />

from dramatic<br />

mountain scenery<br />

and fjords to<br />

majestic reindeers<br />

and multi-coloured<br />

wooden houses<br />

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a frozen river<br />

we were served a warming bowl of reindeer stew<br />

be greeted by welcoming glasses of champagne and<br />

reviving soup and cold-cuts in Mamsen’s, the ship’s<br />

cosy deli, named after the mother of Viking<br />

Chairman Torstein Hagen.<br />

In fact, the whole ship is designed with comfort in<br />

mind. The Scandinavian-inspired lounges, with their<br />

reindeer pelt-covered chairs, are perfect for hunkering<br />

down during the star-studded Arctic nights when<br />

temperatures plummet and a cold wind blows outside.<br />

All around are bookshelves stocked with exciting<br />

tales of Shackleton, Amundsen and Nansen.<br />

The Nordic theme continues in the excellent<br />

restaurants and even the Spa, where a steam room,<br />

sauna and Snow Grotto allow for the full Scandinavian<br />

bathing ritual of fire and ice.<br />

But it is the chance to see the elusive northern lights<br />

which is the big draw to this trip.<br />

Witnessing the phenomenon is by no means<br />

guaranteed. Conditions have to be just right, with<br />

the sun ejecting enough plasma towards a cloudless,<br />

moonless night on Earth for the lights to firstly form,<br />

and then be visible from below.<br />

The whole crew is permanently on aurora-watch,<br />

with even the bridge officers poised to announce<br />

sightings via the ship’s tannoy.<br />

Cupping her hands, she howled an eerie call into the<br />

wilderness. Within seconds the wolves had answered,<br />

baying in reply and hurrying over to let us warm our<br />

frozen fingers in their fur.<br />

The next port of call was Alta, which at nearly<br />

70 degrees north is the world’s most northerly city.<br />

It is known as “The City of Northern Lights”, a good<br />

sign, if any, that the aurora may show itself.<br />

This time my mother joined us as we took a<br />

nighttime excursion into the mountains, where the<br />

sky was pitch black, offering the best chance of a<br />

glimpse of the spectacle away from the lights of town.<br />

But although we had an enjoyable evening,<br />

lounging round birch wood fires, and sipping hot<br />

chocolate under a blanket of stars, the aurora<br />

remained absent.<br />

The following day we visited the Sámi, the<br />

indigenous people who still herd reindeers in the<br />

mountains and who believe the northern lights<br />

emanate from the souls of the dead. They traditionally<br />

refused to go outside when the aurora was in the sky.<br />

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a<br />

frozen river we were served a warming bowl of bidos,<br />

or reindeer stew, inside the Sámi communal tents,<br />

called lavvu, where we were entertained with<br />

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK/SARAH KNAPTON<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

fascinating tales of life in the frozen north.<br />

Although the aurora again remained hidden, as<br />

we sailed further south towards Tromsø our hopes<br />

began to lift when the forecast showed a spike in the<br />

solar winds indicating that the light-generating plasma<br />

was on its way to Earth. We were playing Scrabble in<br />

the Atrium when the announcement everyone had been<br />

universities had been on hand in the previous days<br />

with photography tips and it had paid dividends.<br />

The lights were so bright that evening they were<br />

seen as far south as Aberdeen, in Scotland. And they<br />

returned the night after for a briefer yet similarly<br />

impressive performance.<br />

The next day we sailed to Stavanger. There is plenty<br />

Glowing streaks of green darted and swept across the sky, then vanished<br />

in an instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue and purple<br />

Clockwise from<br />

above: Endless<br />

fjords stretching<br />

to the horizon;<br />

dog sledding<br />

across the<br />

snow-blanketed<br />

landscapes<br />

of Norway<br />

PHOTOS: © ALAMY<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

hoping for came from the bridge. “The northern lights<br />

have been sighted on the starboard bow.”<br />

My dad and I headed out onto the deck.<br />

The wait was worth it. Glowing streaks of green<br />

darted and swept across the sky, then vanished in an<br />

instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue<br />

and purple. Arcs framed the mountains and great<br />

smoky waves of light drifted from the peaks like an<br />

eruption of emerald lava.<br />

Not wanting my mother to miss it, I raced back<br />

down to the lounge where she was sitting and insisted<br />

she join us outside on the deck. Her face on seeing<br />

the spectacle was worth it. The lights appeared directly<br />

above the ship for around an hour then moved off<br />

south and were gone entirely.<br />

We found my dad in a corridor comparing pictures<br />

with other delighted guests. Experts from the Royal<br />

Astronomical Society and some of Britain’s best<br />

to do on board, from yoga classes, to massages and<br />

beauty treatments, games, concerts, wine tasting,<br />

films and talks, to name but a few.<br />

By the time we reached Stavanger it felt like a<br />

gentle re-entry into real life. The ship docked right<br />

in the centre of town, and we spent an enjoyable<br />

morning pootling around the chic shops and coffee<br />

bars, before setting sail across the North Sea and<br />

back home to the <strong>UK</strong>.<br />

As we disembarked at Tilbury – unexpectedly<br />

simple compared to most cruises – we all agreed<br />

we could have stayed longer, and had made some<br />

fabulous memories. Captain Bengt Gustafson<br />

insisted on saying goodbye to each and every<br />

passenger as we left.<br />

A 13-day 2021 In Search of the Northern Lights<br />

cruise, from Bergen to London, starts at £3,990pp.<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

Tromsø<br />

Resting 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle,<br />

Tromsø is blessed with mild winters thanks to<br />

the Gulf Stream, making it an ideal destination<br />

to see the northern lights<br />

Inhabited for 10,000 years,<br />

Tromsø has a fascinating<br />

history. Sitting centrally to<br />

all the Nordic countries (as<br />

well as Russia), it became<br />

a major Arctic trade centre and<br />

the starting point for many an<br />

Arctic expedition. You can learn<br />

more of the hardships those early<br />

explorers endured at the fascinating<br />

Polarmuseet (Polar Museum).<br />

Surrounded by snow-capped<br />

peaks and subject to the midnight<br />

sun in the summer, this picturesque<br />

city is compact enough to explore<br />

by foot, but it is also well-served by<br />

local buses. Start across the famous<br />

bridge on Tromsdalen with a cable<br />

car trip to the 421-metre-tall<br />

Fjellheisen platform for stunning<br />

views across the city, and fjords,<br />

mountains and islands beyond.<br />

As you head back towards Tromsø<br />

stop at the iceberg-inspired Arctic<br />

Cathedral, built by Norwegian<br />

architect Jan Inge Hovig in 1965.<br />

Wander along the attractive<br />

harbour where the city’s oldest<br />

wooden buildings make a pretty<br />

photo backdrop, before moving<br />

on to Skansen, a customs station<br />

built in 1789 and Tromsø’s oldest<br />

house. The remains of a medieval<br />

settlement can be found here, too.<br />

Then there is Tromsø Domkirk,<br />

a wooden church and the world’s<br />

most northerly cathedral.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

•Tromsø boasts the world’s<br />

northernmost university, as<br />

well as a rich cultural calendar<br />

of music and festivals. Visit the<br />

Universitetsmuseet (University<br />

Museum) to learn more about the<br />

region’s history, art and wildlife.<br />

•The region is not only home to<br />

a Norse population but also to<br />

the Sámi people with their own<br />

unique culture. A Sámi Reindeer<br />

experience allows you to learn<br />

more about the people who herd<br />

and live with reindeer year-round,<br />

as well as a chance to meet and<br />

feed the animals.<br />

•The city is proud of its pubs, and<br />

until recently claimed the most<br />

northern commercial brewery: the<br />

Mack Brewery. If you stop for a<br />

pint at their Ølhallen (‘The Hall’),<br />

Tromsø’s oldest pub, you’ll have<br />

more than 70 beers to choose from.<br />

•Everyone wants to see the aurora<br />

borealis and they are occasionally<br />

visible from Tromsø itself, but<br />

taking an excursion to avoid the<br />

light pollution is the best option.<br />

If that’s not possible visit the<br />

Northern Norwegian Science<br />

Centre for a fantastic northern<br />

lights planetarium show.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Gorgeous<br />

views of snowcapped<br />

mountains<br />

surround the city;<br />

the northern lights<br />

are often visible<br />

from the city<br />

Fast Facts<br />

•Tromsø is pronounced trom-seh,<br />

not troms-O.<br />

•It takes its name from the island<br />

on which it is located: Tromsøya.<br />

•Tromsø hosts more pubs per<br />

capita than any other town<br />

in Norway.<br />

•Between the months of May and<br />

July the sun never dips below the<br />

horizon, while it is not visible at all<br />

from November to January.<br />

•The city is not only home to the<br />

world’s northernmost university,<br />

but also the northernmost botanical<br />

garden, brewery and planetarium.<br />

•Despite its location so far north,<br />

the city enjoys a moderate oceanic<br />

climate with relatively mild winters,<br />

making it the perfect location for<br />

outdoor activities.<br />

•There is evidence that human<br />

settlement in Tromsø dates back<br />

10,000 years, whilst the local Sámi<br />

culture is at least 2,000 years old.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

Insider Tips<br />

SPIRITUAL SPACE<br />

Tromsø is famed for its<br />

distinctive modern Arctic<br />

Cathedral, also known as<br />

Tromsdalen Church. Built<br />

in 1965 by the architect<br />

Jan Inge Hovig, it seats 600<br />

people and is made from<br />

concrete and metal.<br />

ON THE LOOKOUT<br />

Keep an eye out for the<br />

Tromsø coat of arms which is<br />

a reindeer presented against<br />

an azure blue background,<br />

sometimes topped by a<br />

crown. The stylised drawing,<br />

devised in 1870, was created<br />

by Hallvard Trætteberg.<br />

KNOCK ON WOOD<br />

Tromsø's town centre has<br />

the largest number of old<br />

wooden houses in northern<br />

Norway, dating from 1789<br />

to 1904. Common decorative<br />

features include Hound’s<br />

tooth patterns in the<br />

window frames.<br />

SKY HIGH<br />

Built in 1961 by a local<br />

shipping company, the<br />

Tromsø's Cable Car<br />

runs from Solliveien,<br />

in Tromsdalen, up to<br />

Storsteinen, a mountain<br />

ledge 421m above sea-level.<br />

The trip takes four minutes.<br />

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CULTURE<br />

Above:<br />

Kiliii Yuyan<br />

(b. 1979), Umiaq<br />

and north wind<br />

during spring<br />

whaling. Inkjet<br />

print, 2019.<br />

© Kiliii Yuyan.<br />

TRUE NORTH<br />

Dr Jan Peter Laurens Loovers, Project Curator of the<br />

Citi exhibition Arctic: culture and climate at the British Museum,<br />

shares his highlights of the upcoming show<br />

What do you hope to achieve<br />

with this ambitious exhibition?<br />

The exhibition explores the lives of<br />

around 400,000 Indigenous Arctic<br />

Peoples who have made hospitable<br />

homelands out of ecosystems of ice<br />

for over 30,000 years.<br />

These communities have been<br />

on the frontline of global climate<br />

change and have noticed how their<br />

homelands and its weather patterns<br />

are changing drastically. Weather<br />

affects every aspect of their lives –<br />

food, travel, clothing, and even<br />

love. Climate change is making<br />

generations of knowledge obsolete.<br />

Thus the exhibition shows what is<br />

at stake when the homelands of<br />

Arctic Indigenous Peoples are free<br />

from ice in 80 years, as predicted.<br />

Ice is fundamental to their lives,<br />

serving as building material for<br />

roads and temporary shelters,<br />

enabling freedom to travel widely<br />

and providing access to bountiful<br />

worlds. Permafrost – frozen soil,<br />

which acts as bedrock in the Arctic<br />

– is thawing fast. Without it, roads<br />

are sinking, structures are collapsing<br />

and solid ground is giving way. If<br />

the Arctic is ice free within 80<br />

years, what will happen to these<br />

ways of life centred on the cold?<br />

Can you tell us a bit more<br />

about the range of objects and<br />

artworks on show?<br />

The exhibition covers over 30,000<br />

years of life in the Arctic with<br />

282 objects from across the<br />

region with lenders from Alaska,<br />

Denmark, the Russian Federation,<br />

and Switzerland. Objects include<br />

clothing, transport, cooking<br />

utensils, sewing tools, ceremonial<br />

items and contemporary art. We<br />

will, of course, show quintessential<br />

Arctic objects such as snow<br />

spectacles, harpoons, parkas, masks,<br />

dog and reindeer sleds, and a kayaq,<br />

as well as 157 objects that have<br />

never been shown before.<br />

We’ve also commissioned new<br />

objects – such as a mammoth-ivory<br />

model by Sakha master carver<br />

Fedor Markov and a Kentish-stone<br />

inukshuk by Inuit leader and artist<br />

Piita Irniq – and created a number<br />

of videos that offer snapshots of<br />

Arctic Indigenous Peoples’ seasonal<br />

lives. These include films of Nenet<br />

reindeer herding in the Yamal<br />

Peninsula as well as Inuit<br />

seamstresses in Mittimatalik<br />

making boots from sealskins. It will<br />

also host photographs by Brian<br />

Adams who is an Inupiat from<br />

Alaska and an edited film by Kiliii<br />

Yüyan who is a American-Chinese-<br />

Nanai film-maker.<br />

PHOTOS: © THE BRITISH MUSEUM<br />

How is the Arctic landscape<br />

woven through the exhibition?<br />

The Arctic landscape will take a<br />

prominent place in the exhibition.<br />

We want to bring the Arctic to<br />

London so that the visitor can<br />

have an immersive experience.<br />

The land, sea, and ice are of<br />

pivotal importance to Arctic<br />

Indigenous Peoples. Inuit carvings<br />

depict various animals such as a<br />

narwhal, a polar bear, a caribou<br />

(wild reindeer), or an owl. Inuit<br />

art, likewise, emphasises the<br />

importance of the land. Perhaps<br />

nobody shows this as successfully<br />

as acclaimed Inuit artist Kenojuak<br />

Ashevak (1927-2013) in her 1992<br />

drawing Nunavut Qajanartuk<br />

(Our Beautiful Land). The circular<br />

drawing shows the seasonal lives<br />

of Inuit in Nunavut with scenes of<br />

habitation, hunting and travelling.<br />

How have you showcased the<br />

contact with outsiders?<br />

Some Arctic Indigenous Peoples<br />

met “southerner” explorers and<br />

traders in the early 19th century,<br />

but others had a much longer or<br />

shorter history with “southerners”.<br />

The exhibition highlights several<br />

drawings to show how European<br />

expansion into the Arctic often led<br />

to conflict or collaboration. Three<br />

drawings by the English artist John<br />

White, made somewhere between<br />

1585 and 1593, show the violent<br />

escapades of Sir Martin Frobisher’s<br />

1576-1578 voyages to the Hudson’s<br />

Strait to explore new lands.<br />

Arctic Indigenous Peoples also<br />

began to incorporate Southerner<br />

clothing styles and Christianity. For<br />

example, an Aleut parka made from<br />

sea-mammal gut is in the style of a<br />

Russian officer’s cloak, while another<br />

Aleutian artisan made a calendar<br />

from driftwood and walrus ivory to<br />

keep track of important Russian<br />

Orthodox days. In other cases, like<br />

a Sámi bag that includes older<br />

spiritual designs in contemporary<br />

objects, the Peoples have adjusted<br />

their spiritual objects to be<br />

“hidden” from the colonial regimes.<br />

Wildlife features heavily, too.<br />

“Southerners” are prone to speak<br />

about animal instincts but Arctic<br />

Indigenous Peoples believe an<br />

animal’s personhood is akin to that<br />

of a human, and stress the ongoing<br />

importance of nourishing respectful<br />

relations with animals.<br />

A breakdown in such relations<br />

can lead to dire consequences such<br />

as the withholding of luck for<br />

successful hunting, bad weather or<br />

even death. When looking at Inuit<br />

artist Pudlo Pudlat’s lithograph<br />

Forced Immigration, which shows a<br />

polar bear, a walrus and a muskox<br />

hanging from a military helicopter,<br />

one might ponder what such<br />

actions would have resulted in.<br />

While hunting has mainly been<br />

done by men, women play a crucial<br />

role in maintaining good relations<br />

with animals too. Animals give<br />

themselves to the hunters and their<br />

families who observe respectful<br />

relationships. Women, therefore,<br />

have moral obligations to make<br />

beautiful garments from hunted<br />

animals for the men to wear during<br />

the hunt. The processing of food<br />

also needs to be done properly to<br />

maintain the family’s wellbeing.<br />

What is your favourite item?<br />

With over 280 objects it is difficult<br />

to pinpoint one item, so allow me<br />

to highlight a few. Small beads<br />

made from mammoth ivory offer<br />

insight into how Arctic Peoples<br />

created beautiful objects as early as<br />

32,000 years ago. A reindeer-antler<br />

needle and bird-bone needle case<br />

from Zhokov Island were made<br />

about 9,000 years ago, and a piece<br />

of a willow basket from the same<br />

site and era tell us how life would<br />

have been for Arctic ancestors.<br />

Coming closer to the present<br />

day (AD500-1300), a Dorset wand<br />

with 27 faces, each with a unique<br />

expression, has been carved in a<br />

caribou antler. And a map from the<br />

Bering Strait drawn on sealskin in<br />

the 1850s shows the annual<br />

movements of the maker.<br />

Another unique object is a<br />

waterproof Kalaallit whaling suit<br />

made from sealskins. It’s the only<br />

one that remains intact and would<br />

have been used by a hunter to jump<br />

on a sleeping whale and harpoon it.<br />

Perhaps my most favourite item<br />

is an early 20th-century Gwich’in<br />

summer outfit made from caribou<br />

skin. The colourful porcupine quills<br />

set against the white reindeer skin<br />

are beautiful and the skills of the<br />

Gwich’in seamstress are exceptional.<br />

This is just a small selection of<br />

the objects that will captivate,<br />

amaze and inspire visitors.<br />

The Citi exhibition Arctic: culture<br />

and climate at the British<br />

Museum will be one of the first<br />

exhibitions after the Museum<br />

re-opens. Loans may be<br />

impacted by the Covid 19 health<br />

emergency. The accompanying<br />

book, published by Thames &<br />

Hudson in collaboration with the<br />

British Museum, will be available<br />

when the exhibition opens.<br />

Check britishmuseum.org for the<br />

updated opening details.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above:<br />

Andrew Qappik<br />

(b. 1964, Inuit,<br />

Pangnirtung,<br />

Nunavut,<br />

Canada), There’s<br />

Another One.<br />

Coloured stencil<br />

drawing, 2012.<br />

© Andrew Qappik;<br />

Child’s all-in-one<br />

suit made of<br />

caribou fur. Inuit,<br />

Igloolik, Nunavut,<br />

Canada. 1980s.<br />

© Trustees of the<br />

British Museum;<br />

Ivory model<br />

sled with dogs,<br />

Northeast Siberia,<br />

Russia. © The<br />

Trustees of the<br />

British Museum.<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

This page:<br />

Guests on a Viking<br />

Longship enjoy a<br />

closer view of the<br />

castles lining the<br />

Rhine River near<br />

the town of Kaub,<br />

in Germany<br />

Tour de<br />

FORCE<br />

Lisa Small discovers stunning<br />

architecture, delicious cuisine and vibrant<br />

culture on a Grand European Tour<br />

To get to the very heart of<br />

some of Europe’s most<br />

beautiful and historic<br />

cities there is perhaps no<br />

better way to travel than by river, as<br />

I discovered with great pleasure on<br />

my glorious Grand European Tour<br />

voyage with Viking. Just the name<br />

of the cruise was enough to stir my<br />

romantic sensibilities, conjuring<br />

up images of days gone by when<br />

wealthy young men embarked on<br />

a two-year Grand Tour of Europe<br />

in search of great enlightenment,<br />

education and inspiration.<br />

I too was hoping for all those<br />

things from my 15-day adventure<br />

exploring the cities, towns and<br />

diverse landscapes that line the<br />

banks of the Rhine, Main and<br />

Danube rivers. And I wasn’t<br />

disappointed. In fact, by the end of<br />

my journey I had gained so much<br />

more, including new friends, more<br />

luggage and a few extra pounds.<br />

Isn’t that the mark of a good trip?<br />

River cruising really is a different<br />

way of seeing the world. Every day<br />

brings new scenery and exciting<br />

destinations, from ancient rural<br />

towns to thriving cosmopolitan<br />

cities; vineyard-covered hills to<br />

mountainous forests watched over<br />

by crumbling fairy-tale castles.<br />

River cruise ships are so much<br />

smaller than ocean liners, but this<br />

means they can transport you right<br />

into the very centre of the city and<br />

moor up, putting all the sights<br />

and attractions within walking<br />

distance of your floating hotel.<br />

When you’re docked somewhere<br />

overnight, it makes it really easy to<br />

spend more time getting to know a<br />

place on your own – and the staff<br />

on board are great with directions,<br />

so I was never afraid of getting<br />

lost or missing out on a wonderful<br />

opportunity that came my way.<br />

The Viking Longship might<br />

have been smaller compared to<br />

its ocean-going cousins, but it<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

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TRAVEL<br />

was actually surprisingly spacious<br />

once you stepped on board. The<br />

lovely Sun Deck was a great place<br />

to sit and soak up the scenery with<br />

a glass of something chilled, the<br />

comfortable and surprisingly airy<br />

lounge was where it all happened<br />

before and after dinner and as for<br />

my stateroom…well it was more<br />

like a hotel room.<br />

Arriving in Amsterdam, the<br />

thought of a whole 15 days<br />

stretching ahead of me seemed like<br />

a deliciously long time, though I<br />

wanted to be sure to do justice to<br />

the rich history and culture of The<br />

Netherlands, Germany, Austria and<br />

Hungary. There’s something about<br />

being on the river, about gliding<br />

silently through the countryside,<br />

that is truly relaxing and feels a<br />

million miles from home and work.<br />

Life happens at a much slower pace<br />

somehow, despite being able to take<br />

so much of Europe in.<br />

I don’t know how Viking does it,<br />

but it really does work.<br />

Our adventure started on the<br />

Rhine with a tour of the charming<br />

17th-century streets and canals<br />

of old Amsterdam. I had visited<br />

From left to<br />

right: Majestic<br />

houses reflect in<br />

the canal waters<br />

in Amsterdam;<br />

watch the sunrise<br />

over a spot of<br />

breakfast on the<br />

Aquavit Terrace<br />

It doesn’t matter how far you have travelled...<br />

nothing quite prepares you for the jaw-dropping<br />

natural beauty of the Middle Rhine<br />

PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK<br />

BENEDICTINE TREASURES<br />

Melk Abbey, perched on dramatic cliffs high<br />

above the Danube, is perhaps the most graceful<br />

landmark of the Wachau Valley. The interior of the<br />

Abbey’s church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange<br />

and gold, and a highlight is the Imperial Staircase<br />

which leads off the impressive library.<br />

the city before, but this time there<br />

was something really special about<br />

being on the water and a real part<br />

of the whole city scene. Whilst in<br />

The Netherlands, we went to see<br />

the famous Kinderdijk windmills.<br />

It was a great opportunity to take<br />

some photographs and learn more<br />

about why these brilliant structures<br />

formed such an integral part of<br />

the Dutch landscape, which is<br />

criss-crossed with waterways.<br />

The Rhine continued its<br />

natural course into Germany and<br />

we went with it, spending the<br />

next eight fantastic days cruising<br />

through some of Europe’s most<br />

utterly breathtaking scenery, all<br />

while making the most of Viking’s<br />

wonderful hospitality, excellent<br />

facilities and delicious food.<br />

It doesn’t matter how old you<br />

get, or how far you have travelled<br />

across the many countries of the<br />

world, nothing quite prepares you<br />

for the jaw-dropping natural beauty<br />

of the Middle Rhine. Dramatic<br />

cliffs, hilltop castles straight from<br />

the pages of Sleeping Beauty and<br />

quaint riverside towns boasting<br />

gabled houses and cobbled squares<br />

really do still exist in this magical<br />

land that time appears to have<br />

forgotten. It’s a place I, and my<br />

fellow travellers, will certainly<br />

not forget in a hurry.<br />

Sharing the experiences of each<br />

day with other guests on board<br />

48 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 49


TRAVEL<br />

was one of the lovely things about<br />

my cruise. I met some wonderful,<br />

like-minded people and thanks<br />

to the intimacy of our Viking<br />

Longship, I had the opportunity to<br />

enjoy their friendly and interesting<br />

company throughout the voyage.<br />

There were no fixed seating plans<br />

at dinner so we were free to share<br />

the fabulous food and conversation<br />

with different people on different<br />

nights, which kept the atmosphere<br />

really informal and gave everyone<br />

the opportunity to meet and get<br />

to know new people.<br />

Other notable German<br />

highlights for me were stopping<br />

off for a beer in Germany’s oldest<br />

inn – ‘The Inn of the Giant’ – in<br />

Miltenberg; seeing the magnificent<br />

I had a glass of wine in my hand, and was looking<br />

up at the inky black night sky, illuminated by a thousand<br />

stars, as we sailed into beautiful Budapest<br />

WINDMILLS OF<br />

KINDERDIJK<br />

Much of this part of The<br />

Netherlands is actually below sea<br />

level. As the original technological<br />

marvels of historic Kinderdijk, these<br />

19 windmills have been designated<br />

a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />

Built in the mid-18th century, these<br />

structures stand like sentinels on<br />

a hushed landscape.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from above:<br />

The rooftops of<br />

beautiful Vienna;<br />

the Hungarian<br />

Parliament is a<br />

sight to behold on<br />

the Danube; dining<br />

with a view is one<br />

of the benefits of<br />

sailing with Viking<br />

frescoes in the Bishop’s Residenz in<br />

Würzburg; tucking into sausages<br />

and sauerkraut at the Old Sausage<br />

Kitchen in Regensburg and<br />

shopping for gingerbread and<br />

pink pepper chocolate in Passau.<br />

Once on the Danube, we sailed<br />

into Austria where we encountered<br />

countless ‘camera-ready’ moments<br />

between Melk and Krems and a<br />

fabulous tour of the culturally rich<br />

and history-packed capital, Vienna.<br />

The end of this most memorable<br />

of journeys was marked by a<br />

moment I will cherish forever...<br />

standing out on the top deck of our<br />

Longship, there was music playing<br />

gently in the background, I had<br />

a glass of wine in my hand,<br />

and was looking up at the inky<br />

black night sky, illuminated by<br />

a thousand twinkling stars, as<br />

we sailed into the beautiful and<br />

historic city of Budapest. It was a<br />

truly magical experience and an<br />

absolutely wonderful way to end<br />

our 15-day adventure cruising<br />

through Europe’s majestic and<br />

enthralling waterways.<br />

A 15-day 2022 Grand European<br />

Tour river cruise, sailing from<br />

Amsterdam to Budapest, starts<br />

from £2,895pp.<br />

50 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 51


ITINERARY<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Spirit<br />

of the north<br />

This illuminating cruise combines epic scenery<br />

and snow-dusted landscapes with Sámi legends<br />

and rock carvings<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from top left:<br />

colourful houses<br />

in UNESCO-listed<br />

Bryggen wharf,<br />

in Bergen; the<br />

Sámi have herded<br />

reindeer for<br />

centuries; the<br />

Arctic Cathedral<br />

is one of Norway’s<br />

landmarks<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

DAY 1 / LONDON<br />

Arrive in Tilbury, London, and take some time to settle<br />

into the ship – your home for the next 13 days.<br />

DAY 2 / CRUISE THE NORTH SEA<br />

Setting sail for the North Sea, you’ll have ample time to<br />

learn about this vast body of water and its importance<br />

throughout history, as well as take in panoramic views.<br />

DAY 3 / STAVANGER, NORWAY<br />

You’ll have a day to explore the old town, Gamle<br />

Stavanger, known for its charming cobbled walkways<br />

and white wooden buildings. You might also like<br />

to cruise along the Lysefjord to spot the remarkable<br />

Preikestolen rock or visit the museum for some history.<br />

DAY 4 / CRUISE THE NORWEGIAN SEA<br />

Cruising the Norwegian Sea to your next port of call,<br />

you’ll have lots of time to make the most of your ship’s<br />

amenities, from The Spa to the Scandinavian eateries.<br />

DAY 5 / BODØ, NORWAY<br />

Lying just north of the Arctic Circle is Bodø, a city<br />

rebuilt after experiencing unprecedented destruction<br />

in World War II. From here you’ll be able to enjoy<br />

an included tour to see the Customs House, the<br />

Norwegian Aviation Museum and Gothic Bodø<br />

Cathedral with its dramatic 36-metre clock tower.<br />

DAYS 6 & 7 / TROMSØ, NORWAY<br />

Your next port of call is the northern city and island of<br />

Tromsø with its quaint historic centre and surrounding<br />

snowcapped peaks. Be sure to visit its Arctic Cathedral,<br />

famed for its striking triangular shape. Another<br />

highlight is the Tromsø Wilderness Centre, while a<br />

once-in-a-lifetime glacier trek to discover Norway’s<br />

wilderness is the perfect way to spend day two here.<br />

DAY 8 / ALTA, NORWAY<br />

Spend the next two days on the shores of Altafjord,<br />

the gateway to the Arctic and a great place to spot the<br />

northern lights. You can also visit rock carvings telling<br />

stories of Norwegian culture, something you can learn<br />

more about at the Alta Museum, or take a trip to the<br />

Northern Lights Cathedral with its flame-like steeple.<br />

DAY 10 / NARVIK, NORWAY<br />

Narvik is situated on the innermost shores of Ofotfjord<br />

and enjoys a dramatic backdrop of mountains and a<br />

huge glacier that tumbles right down to the water’s<br />

edge. <strong>Explore</strong> the Polar Park, where you can spot Arctic<br />

wolves in their natural habitat as well as other wildlife.<br />

DAY 11 / CRUISE THE NORWEGIAN SEA<br />

After departing from Narvik, you’ll have another chance<br />

to discover your ship’s highlights. Try out the Viking Art<br />

App installed on your mobile device, where you can<br />

learn all about the Scandinavian-inspired art on board.<br />

DAYS 12 & 13 / BERGEN, NORWAY<br />

Be greeted in Bergen by UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf,<br />

a harbour lined with cute 18th-century houses. Spend<br />

your last night on board before returning home.<br />

The 13-day 2022 In Search of the Northern Lights<br />

trip around Norway starts at £3,990pp.<br />

52 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SPRING <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 53


BOOK CLUB<br />

Viking<br />

JOIN OUR<br />

BOOK CLUB<br />

BOOK CLUB<br />

Here we select a few of our favourite books…<br />

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club<br />

THE MUSEUM<br />

OF BROKEN<br />

PROMISES BY<br />

ELIZABETH<br />

BUCHAN<br />

Atlantic Books,<br />

£14.99<br />

Split between<br />

modern day Paris<br />

and Prague in<br />

the heady summer of 1985, the<br />

narrative follows Laure who, today,<br />

owns and curates her own museum<br />

in the French capital. Every object<br />

has been donated – a cake tin,<br />

a wedding veil, a baby’s show.<br />

And each represents a moment of<br />

grief or betrayal. Yet hidden away<br />

are artefacts from Laure’s own<br />

painful youth – secrets that hint at<br />

her brush with life with dissident<br />

politics behind the Iron Curtain.<br />

As Laure faces up to the love<br />

that has shaped her life, the novel<br />

also reveals some of the darkest<br />

moments in European history.<br />

OLD GLORY:<br />

AN AMERICAN<br />

VOYAGE BY<br />

JONATHAN<br />

RABAN<br />

Eland Publishing,<br />

£14.99<br />

Ever since<br />

reading The<br />

Adventures of<br />

Huckleberry Finn as a seven year<br />

old, British author Jonathan Raban<br />

dreamt of navigating the waters<br />

of the Mississippi in a spartan 16ft<br />

motorboat. Thirty years later, in the<br />

late 1970s, he turned his childhood<br />

dream into a reality to create this<br />

masterpiece of contemporary<br />

American travel writing.<br />

During the course of his voyage,<br />

Raban records all the mercurial<br />

caprices of the river and the varied<br />

lives of the people who live along<br />

its banks, all with a dose of wry<br />

humour. He is an expert observer<br />

of the hospitality, energy and<br />

charm of America’s heartland as he<br />

finds himself, at times, vulnerable,<br />

curious, angry and foolishly in love<br />

THE SHADOW<br />

OF THE WIND<br />

BY CARLOS<br />

RUIZ ZAFÓN<br />

Orion Publishing<br />

Co, £8.99<br />

Hidden in the<br />

heart of the old<br />

city of Barcelona<br />

is the ‘Cemetery<br />

of Lost Books’, where a man brings<br />

his 10-year-old son Daniel one cold<br />

morning in 1945. He is allowed to<br />

choose one book from the shelves<br />

and pulls out ‘The Shadow of the<br />

Wind’ by Julian Carax.<br />

As he grows up, several people<br />

seem inordinately interested in his<br />

find, igniting Daniel to launch his<br />

own investigation into the author’s<br />

life. What begins as curiosity soon<br />

turns into a race to find out the<br />

truth behind the life and death of<br />

Julian Carax. This stunning literary<br />

thriller will have you hooked.<br />

GALÁPAGOS<br />

BY KURT<br />

VONNEGUT<br />

HarperCollins,<br />

£8.99<br />

This madcap<br />

classic takes<br />

readers back<br />

one million<br />

years to 1986.<br />

The plot follows a mismatched<br />

cast of characters who set off on<br />

holiday to the fictional island of<br />

Santa Rosalia in the Galápagos<br />

archipelago. When an apocalypse<br />

then ensues, a small group of<br />

survivors end up stranded on<br />

Santa Rosalia and find themselves<br />

the progenitors of a brand new<br />

and totally transformed human<br />

race – think thick fur, flipper-like<br />

hands and streamlined skulls.<br />

Full of Vonnegut’s trademark<br />

satire, dark humour and originality,<br />

his 11th novel questions the merit<br />

of the human brain from an<br />

evolutionary point of view as he<br />

uses Darwin’s theory to reach his<br />

conclusions and reveal all that is<br />

worth saving in the world.<br />

THE BAT BY<br />

JO NESBO<br />

Vintage<br />

Publishing, £8.99<br />

The first in the<br />

bestselling Harry<br />

Hole series, this<br />

thriller transports<br />

Nordic noir to<br />

sunny Sydney.<br />

Following the murder of a young<br />

Norwegian backpacker, Harry is<br />

sent to Australia to investigate, and<br />

soon unearths a string of unsolved<br />

murders and disappearances.<br />

Nothing will stop the detective<br />

from finding out the truth and the<br />

hunt for a serial killer is on, but the<br />

murderer will talk only to Harry.<br />

The evocation of Australia itself<br />

has Nesbo’s customary expertise<br />

in this addictive read as the stellar<br />

plot keeps readers guessing until<br />

the final pages.<br />

A THEATRE<br />

FOR<br />

DREAMERS<br />

BY POLLY<br />

SAMSON<br />

Bloomsbury<br />

Publishing,<br />

£14.99<br />

Escape to<br />

Greece in<br />

this new novel about the stormy<br />

undercurrents of an idyllic artist<br />

community on the island of Hydra.<br />

Living tangled lives, the group of<br />

poets, painters and musicians are<br />

ruled by the writers Charmian Clift<br />

and George Johnston, troubled<br />

king and queen of bohemia.<br />

Forming within this circle is a<br />

triangle: the magnetic, destructive<br />

writer Axel Jensen, his dazzling<br />

wife Marianne Ihlen, and a young<br />

Canadian poet named Leonard<br />

Cohen. Into their midst arrives<br />

teenage Eric who, settling on the<br />

periphery, watches, entranced and<br />

disquieted, as paradise unravels.<br />

The spellbinding book is a tale<br />

of innocence lost and the wars<br />

waged between men and women<br />

on the battlegrounds of genius.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

54 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 55


TRAVEL<br />

A CITY<br />

to savour<br />

Cassie Wilcox celebrates the rich history,<br />

forward-thinking spirit and culinary culture of the<br />

welcoming French city of Lyon<br />

PHOTOS: © ALAMY / ISTOCK / AWL<br />

Divided by two rivers,<br />

the Saône and Rhône,<br />

Lyon’s topography first<br />

attracted the Romans,<br />

who founded the city’s predecessor,<br />

Lugdunum, on the steep slopes of<br />

Fourvière Hill in 43BC. Today, the<br />

basilica-crowned hill offers pretty<br />

views over the terracotta roofs of<br />

Vieux-Lyon (the Old Town), one<br />

of the world’s largest Renaissance<br />

neighbourhoods.<br />

From Fourvière, you can walk<br />

(or take the funicular) downhill to<br />

the cobbled Croix-Rousse district<br />

in Vieux-Lyon and explore its<br />

warren of traboules – passages and<br />

tunnels created through houses and<br />

courtyards to offer silk workers a<br />

shortcut to market. And silk has<br />

had a key role to play in Lyon’s<br />

economy and culinary traditions.<br />

Lyon boasts many titles, such<br />

as the silk capital and the ancient<br />

capital of the Gauls. But its most<br />

famous is the capital of gastronomy.<br />

The city’s culinary heritage is the<br />

legacy of its mères, mothers who,<br />

when dismissed from the homes<br />

of bourgeois families during<br />

the economic crisis of 1929, set<br />

up their own restaurants called<br />

bouchons. Here, silk workers sat<br />

alongside businessmen and dined<br />

on simple, hearty dishes, washed<br />

down with a carafe of Beaujolais or<br />

CÔtes du RhÔne.<br />

Pork is a menu staple in Lyon’s<br />

bouchons. Quenelles are another<br />

typical dish; light and airy<br />

dumplings, almost like a soufflé,<br />

made with creamed fish or meat.<br />

For something lighter, try the Salade<br />

Lyonnaise, a green salad with bacon<br />

lardons, croutons, mustard dressing<br />

and a poached egg.<br />

These mères taught many of<br />

Lyon’s now famous chefs, including<br />

Paul Bocuse who went on to<br />

establish his three Michelin-star<br />

restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de<br />

Collonges, and his Lyon brasseries:<br />

Le Nord, L’Ouest, Le Sud and<br />

L’Est, each specialising in a<br />

different region of French cuisine.<br />

In a city of more than 2,000<br />

restaurants, there is no shortage<br />

of innovative chefs and you could<br />

happily spend your days sampling<br />

the many delicious wares available.<br />

At the epicentre of Lyon’s food<br />

culture is Les Halles de Lyon,<br />

the almost mythical indoor food<br />

market, with an international<br />

reputation for selling the finest<br />

produce available, anywhere.<br />

It is an ideal place to taste the<br />

best of French and Lyonnaise<br />

cuisine, with over 50 vendors<br />

selling a vast diversity of produce.<br />

Butchers, charcutiers, fromagers,<br />

pastry chefs and wine specialists<br />

have all set up shop, and once<br />

inside, you can wander around and<br />

enjoy a meal or choose a sampler<br />

plate. Among the culinary treasures<br />

are Lyon’s signature brioches au<br />

pralines, and an extraordinary array<br />

of cheeses made with cow, goat<br />

and sheep’s milk. Chocolates make<br />

a wonderful gift to take home, as<br />

do macarons, in flavours such as<br />

strawberry and tarragon, and lemon<br />

and cassis. One thing is certain, it is<br />

impossible to leave empty handed.<br />

Few things sum up a destination<br />

as honestly as its cuisine and<br />

culinary traditions. Food is at the<br />

heart of every culture. But in Lyon,<br />

food is more than the heart, it is the<br />

very soul of the city.<br />

Viking offers a variety of<br />

excursions in Lyon, including<br />

Flavours of Lyon, on its 8-day<br />

Lyon & Provence river cruise.<br />

2021 & 2022 prices from £1,595pp.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

above: Al fresco<br />

dining abounds<br />

in Lyon; many of<br />

the historical sites<br />

in Lyon overlook<br />

the two rivers<br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 57


RECIPES<br />

A Taste of France<br />

Conjure up a delightful reminder of French<br />

cuisine with these classic dishes from our<br />

recipe book, The Kitchen Table<br />

French cuisine has long been<br />

the envy of the world. No<br />

matter whether it’s the rich<br />

flavours of the southern<br />

regions, with their Mediterranean<br />

influences, or the country-style<br />

dishes of the north, sophisticated<br />

tastes, elegant presentation and<br />

local produce can be guaranteed.<br />

The recipes below include a classic<br />

Provençal fish stew, coq au vin – a<br />

a hearty, rustic dish with regional<br />

variations across France – and a<br />

traditional French apple tart.<br />

BOUILLABAISSE<br />

TOULONNAISE<br />

Serves 4<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• Olive oil<br />

• 125g (4 ½ oz) fennel, sliced<br />

• 2 red onions, chopped<br />

• 1 tsp sea salt<br />

• 1 tbsp tarragon, chopped<br />

• ½ tsp black pepper<br />

• Fish heads, bones and offcuts<br />

• 1kg (2.2 lb) tomatoes, roughly<br />

chopped<br />

• 2 tbsp tomato purée<br />

• 1 pinch saffron threads<br />

• 1 lemon, juiced<br />

• 2 tbsp butter<br />

FOR THE ROUILLE:<br />

• 3 egg yolks<br />

• Salt and pepper<br />

• ½ lemon, juiced<br />

• Pinch saffron<br />

• Pinch cayenne pepper<br />

• 200ml (6 ¾ fl oz) olive oil<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, crushed<br />

• 200g (7 oz) salmon<br />

• 200g (7 oz) pollock<br />

• 200g (7 oz) monkfish<br />

• 450g (1 lb) mussels, scrubbed,<br />

beards removed<br />

1. To make the broth, heat 4<br />

tablespoons of olive oil in a large<br />

pan over a medium heat. Add the<br />

fennel and cook for 3 to 4 minutes<br />

without it colouring, then add the<br />

red onion, sea salt, tarragon and<br />

black pepper.<br />

2. Add the fish bones and offcuts<br />

and the tomatoes, then cover with<br />

water. Bring to a simmer, skimming<br />

off any residue that rises to the<br />

surface. Add the tomato purée and<br />

saffron and bring back to a simmer.<br />

Cook for about 1 ½ hours, or until<br />

it has reduced by about a third.<br />

3. Sieve the broth, pressing down<br />

the contents of the sieve with a<br />

ladle to extract as much liquid as<br />

possible, then add the lemon juice<br />

and whisk in the butter. Check the<br />

seasoning, then cool and refrigerate.<br />

4. To make the rouille, whisk the<br />

egg yolks with the seasoning,<br />

lemon juice, saffron and cayenne<br />

pepper. Slowly add the oil in a thin<br />

stream, whisking continuously,<br />

then stir in the garlic. Add a little<br />

warm water if it is too thick. Set<br />

aside until needed.<br />

5. Bring the reserved broth up<br />

to a simmer, then add all the fish.<br />

Poach until just tender, adding the<br />

firmest fillets first, then remove<br />

and place on a serving platter.<br />

Ladel over the broth. Serve with<br />

the rouille on the side and some<br />

garlic croutons.<br />

Above:<br />

Bouilleabaisse was<br />

first created by<br />

French fisherman<br />

with unwanted fish<br />

from their catch<br />

58 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 59


Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes”<br />

photographed by Karine in the<br />

Umbrian Countryside<br />

COOKERY AND TRAVEL €20<br />

2 nd Edition<br />

RECIPES<br />

COQ AU VIN<br />

SERVES 6<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• 2 tbsp plain (all purpose) flour<br />

• 1 large chicken, jointed<br />

• 2 tbsp butter<br />

• 125g (4 ½ oz) bacon lardons<br />

• 1 medium onion, chopped<br />

• 1 medium carrot, chopped<br />

• 1 bottle full-bodied red wine<br />

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced<br />

• 1 tsp sugar<br />

• 1 bouquet garni (bundle of<br />

parsley, bay leaves and thyme)<br />

• Olive oil<br />

• 225g (8 oz) baby onions, peeled<br />

• 225g (8 oz) small button<br />

mushrooms, trimmed<br />

• Small bunch of fresh parsley<br />

From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on<br />

her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of<br />

our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen<br />

tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary<br />

horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and<br />

fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

The Kitchen Table A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD<br />

METHOD:<br />

1. Season the flour generously,<br />

then toss the chicken pieces in the<br />

seasoned flour until well coated.<br />

2. In a heavy-based casserole pot,<br />

melt a tablespoon of the butter. Fry<br />

the chicken pieces, turning around<br />

until they are golden brown.<br />

Remove the chicken pieces and set<br />

aside. Add in the bacon, onion and<br />

carrot and fry for around 5 minutes.<br />

3. Pour in the wine, de-glazing the<br />

pan and scraping any caramelised<br />

bits stuck to the bottom. Add the<br />

chicken back in along with the<br />

garlic, sugar and bouquet garni.<br />

Cover and simmer for an hour.<br />

4. Before serving, melt another<br />

tablespoon of butter in a frying<br />

pan along with a tablespoon of<br />

olive oil. Add in the baby onions<br />

and mushrooms, season with salt<br />

and pepper and fry until golden.<br />

Stir in to the chicken.<br />

5. Remove the bouquet garni<br />

and garnish the coq au vin with<br />

chopped fresh parsley. Serve<br />

straight from the casserole.<br />

The<br />

Kitchen<br />

Table<br />

A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD<br />

THE KITCHEN TABLE<br />

Join Viking’s Karine Hagen<br />

as she explores dishes that<br />

represent some of the world’s<br />

most interesting destinations.<br />

All recipes included here<br />

are featured in The Kitchen<br />

Table, which is now available<br />

to view on Viking.TV<br />

TARTE FINE<br />

AUX POMMES<br />

SERVES 6<br />

INGREDIENTS:<br />

• Plain (all purpose) flour, for<br />

dusting<br />

• 320g (11 ¼ oz) all-butter puff<br />

pastry<br />

• 4-6 apples<br />

• 1 lemon<br />

• 2 tbsp butter<br />

• 4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar<br />

METHOD:<br />

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/<br />

400°F. On a flour-dusted surface,<br />

roll out the pastry as thinly as you<br />

can (around 3-5mm is ideal) and<br />

cut out a 22cm circle using an<br />

upturned cake tin or plate as a<br />

template. Place on a baking sheet<br />

lined with baking paper and chill in<br />

the refrigerator until you’re ready<br />

to assemble the tart.<br />

2. Peel, core and thinly slice the<br />

apples. To prevent them going<br />

brown, place in a bowl of cold<br />

water with a squeeze of lemon.<br />

3. Arrange the apple slices in<br />

overlapping, concentric circles<br />

around the pastry base, leaving<br />

a small border. In a small<br />

saucepan, melt the butter<br />

and 3 tbsp sugar together and<br />

brush generously all over the<br />

apples and pastry border.<br />

4. Bake for 20 minutes, then<br />

brush again with the butter and<br />

sugar mixture and dust with the<br />

remaining tablespoon of sugar.<br />

Bake for another 5-10 minutes,<br />

or until golden on top. Serve at<br />

room temperature.<br />

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OCEANS<br />

The<br />

NORWEGIAN SEA<br />

To celebrate World Oceans Day in June, we bring to life<br />

the geography, resources and discoveries<br />

related to this northern ocean<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

If you pulled Norway’s crinkled<br />

coastline out into a straight<br />

line, it would circle the<br />

planet two and a half times.<br />

From north to south, the country<br />

measures less than 1,100 miles, but<br />

its coastline is a huge 63,000 miles<br />

of fjords, bays and island shores.<br />

This glorious natural wonder<br />

was shaped during the last Ice Age<br />

when glaciers several miles high<br />

pushed into the land, resulting in<br />

dramatic soaring peaks, like those<br />

seen on the Lofoten Islands.<br />

A RICH SOURCE OF FOOD<br />

Stretching out into the Norwegian<br />

Sea, the remote Lofoten archipelago<br />

shows off the sculpting power of<br />

nature. The islands are home to the<br />

world’s greatest cod harvest. Each<br />

winter, the icy Arctic Ocean meets<br />

the Gulf Stream, attracting Arctic<br />

cod from the Barents Sea. These<br />

relatively warm waters are why the<br />

sea here remains ice-free all year.<br />

Tørrfisk or stockfish is dried and<br />

salted fish (usually cod), made in<br />

Norway for centuries. Traditionally<br />

dried outdoors by the wind and sun<br />

as a way to preserve nutrients, row<br />

upon row of fish hang on wooden<br />

racks along the shores of Lofoten,<br />

as it has done for 500 years.<br />

These waters are also rich in<br />

herring, and the abundance of fish<br />

in turn attracts an abundance of<br />

other animals. Minke, humpback,<br />

sei and orca come to feed, while the<br />

cries of puffin, kittiwake, gannets,<br />

gulls and guillemot pierce the sky.<br />

Until the 20th century, the<br />

coast was sparsely populated,<br />

although the coastal Sámi, who first<br />

colonised the land, have been living<br />

here for up to 4,000 years.<br />

BEYOND THE HORIZON<br />

From the deck of a ship, you sense<br />

a timelessness about the land,<br />

which is both wild and resilient.<br />

You can understand the pull of<br />

the sea that Norwegian explorers<br />

like Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof<br />

Nansen felt. For many years, the<br />

Norwegian Sea was thought to<br />

be the edge of the known world.<br />

To sail across the sea was an act<br />

of daring. It was also a great<br />

achievement of navigation.<br />

By the eighth century, the only<br />

European seafarers to dare sail<br />

far enough to lose sight of land<br />

were the Vikings. Waiting for<br />

favourable winds, and armed with<br />

plenty of provisions (like stockfish)<br />

they ventured in all directions,<br />

to create new settlements and<br />

forge new trading routes. They<br />

navigated by the position of the<br />

stars, and the sun. West, towards<br />

the sunset, meant they were headed<br />

for England; east (towards the<br />

sunrise) meant home to Norway.<br />

Symbolic of the Viking age, the<br />

Viking longships were sophisticated<br />

beyond their time, recognised,<br />

respected and imitated the world<br />

Opposite:<br />

Traditional homes<br />

perch on wooden<br />

stilts in the<br />

Lofoten Islands<br />

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SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 63


OCEANS<br />

TRAVEL<br />

Clockwise, from top left: A sperm<br />

whale breaches the Norwegian<br />

waters; fish dries on wooden racks<br />

along the coast; sea travel has always<br />

been vital to the Norwegian way of<br />

life; seagulls soar over the fjords; a<br />

traditional Viking ship; the Lofoten<br />

Islands attract thousands of puffins<br />

each year; the archipelago wows with<br />

its snow-capped mountain backdrop;<br />

Stavanger’s pretty old town<br />

over. Built not for comfort but for<br />

speed, agility and endurance, the<br />

ships’ innovative design allowed<br />

the Vikings unparalleled access to<br />

lands beyond their own.<br />

Exploration is part of the<br />

Norwegian DNA. By exploring<br />

beyond the horizon, Norwegians<br />

have mastered the sea and, in<br />

turn, depend on it for transport,<br />

resources and trade. The 14th<br />

century was Norway’s Golden<br />

Age, a time of peace and growing<br />

international trade with Britain and<br />

Germany. This period of trade was<br />

controlled by the Hanseatic League<br />

who established a trading centre<br />

in Bergen. On Bergen’s Bryggen<br />

(wharf) the preserved buildings<br />

of the Hanseatic League are a<br />

World Heritage Site and serve as<br />

a reminder of the country’s<br />

enduring link to the sea.<br />

OIL EXPLORATION<br />

Today, the most important product<br />

of the Norwegian Sea is not fish,<br />

but oil and gas. Oil was first found<br />

in the Norwegian sector of the<br />

North Sea in 1969 and by 1990<br />

the country was Europe’s largest<br />

oil producer. By 2000, oil and<br />

gas production accounted for 20<br />

percent of Norway’s economy, and<br />

it had become one of the world’s<br />

most prosperous countries. The oil<br />

industry not only created jobs in<br />

production, but also in the supply<br />

chain and technology.<br />

To sail the Norwegian Sea is<br />

to witness life along an eons-old<br />

coastline that is as mesmerising as<br />

the sea itself. Under the dusky<br />

light of the midnight sun or<br />

the mid-winter blanket of<br />

darkness, the coast reveals tiny<br />

settlements in sheltered hills that<br />

appear unchanged through time.<br />

The cities along the coast, from<br />

Bergen to Tromsø and, in the far<br />

north, Honningsvåg, were built<br />

on fishing, trade and exploration<br />

and they wear their heritage<br />

proudly. Wooden buildings from<br />

the 17th and 18th centuries line<br />

the harbour, where the fish markets<br />

sell the day’s catch. Deep, yawning<br />

fjords, offer a route inland to<br />

mountains and glaciers.<br />

Many countries have a history<br />

and culture firmly anchored to<br />

the sea. None more so than the<br />

people of Norway.<br />

Above: Fishing<br />

boats docked<br />

in Henningsvær,<br />

a village in the<br />

Lofoten Islands<br />

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SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 65


TRAVEL<br />

Vienna<br />

Old and new fuse beautifully in Vienna, where<br />

classical music, Sigmund Freud and baroque sit<br />

alongside hipster coffee shops, cutting-edge<br />

cuisine and an artsy bohemian vibe<br />

In Vienna, you feel the<br />

weight of the Imperial City’s<br />

important history at every<br />

turn, with its impressive<br />

palaces, Baroque ballrooms and<br />

opulent opera houses, which<br />

still uphold the grand traditions.<br />

When the Habsburg monarchy,<br />

who reigned in the 16th century,<br />

brought their wealth and influence<br />

to Vienna, the city was put on the<br />

map for its ornate Baroque style.<br />

Then came the musical and artistic<br />

pioneers; it’s no coincidence that<br />

four of the top classical musicians<br />

in the world – Beethoven, Mozart,<br />

Strauss and Haydn – lived in<br />

Vienna, as did Sigmund Freud,<br />

and artists Schiele and Klimt.<br />

Today the historic centre still<br />

draws crowds, and rightly so. The<br />

impressive Gothic St. Stephen’s<br />

Cathedral is seen as the symbol of<br />

Vienna with its tower stretching<br />

heavenwards for 136 metres. Don’t<br />

miss the eerie, dimly lit catacombs<br />

studded with skulls. Nearby the<br />

high-baroque Winter Palace borders<br />

Ringstrasse, the 19th-century<br />

boulevard that is home to many of<br />

Vienna's best-known sights, such<br />

as the Imperial Palace, the Vienna<br />

State Opera and Parliament.<br />

However, Vienna is so much<br />

more than its rich past. Today it’s a<br />

bold and vibrant capital city. You’ll<br />

find maverick artists experimenting<br />

with street art along the banks of<br />

the Danube River and museums<br />

packed with Old Masters and<br />

imperial art, as well as showing<br />

exhibitions by contemporary talent<br />

such as Rachel Whiteread. Hip<br />

new coffee shops sit happily beside<br />

Kaffeehaus, and new architecture<br />

breathes fresh air into the city,<br />

including Zaha Hadid’s modernist<br />

library. To get the best out of<br />

Vienna its crucial to take in both<br />

of its equally enthralling sides.<br />

Don’t miss<br />

•MuseumsQuartier at the Imperial<br />

Stables is Vienna’s largest art<br />

complex housing an astonishing<br />

ten museums. Look out for Art<br />

Nouveau heroes Klimt and Schiele.<br />

•Coffee and cake is a Viennese<br />

institution. Fuel up at traditional<br />

Vollpension café or try innovative<br />

das Möbel, where design pieces<br />

from its showroom are on display.<br />

•Follow the locals in summer and<br />

spend time on the Danube. There’s<br />

a hop-on-hop-off boat, bicycles to<br />

hire or simply stroll along the river.<br />

•Take a whirl on Vienna’s vintage<br />

Ferris wheel, the oldest in the<br />

world. Reserve a private cabin for a<br />

candlelit dinner to accompany the<br />

stunning Vienna skyline.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

this image:<br />

Vienna's Baroque<br />

Belvedere Palace;<br />

the elegant<br />

surroundings<br />

of the Café<br />

Sacher Wien<br />

•Visit Vienna’s summer palace,<br />

Schönbrunn, with its elaborate<br />

Rococo interior spread throughout<br />

1,440 rooms. Linger in the<br />

wonderfully landscaped park to<br />

explore the maze and fountains.<br />

Fast Facts<br />

•Pez, the colourful sweetie<br />

dispensers beloved by children,<br />

were invented in Vienna in 1927.<br />

•Every year from New Year’s Eve to<br />

Easter is Viennese Ball Season, and<br />

over 450 balls take place during this<br />

period of time resulting in more<br />

than 2,000 hours of dancing.<br />

•In 2018, Vienna was crowned the<br />

most liveable city in the world.<br />

•The dazzling roof of St. Stephen’s<br />

Cathedral features 230,000 glazed<br />

mosaic tiles arranged in various<br />

patterns including a double-headed<br />

eagle – the symbol of the Austrian<br />

empire when it was ruled by<br />

the Habsburg dynasty.<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES<br />

Insider Tips<br />

GREAT MUSICIANS<br />

Enjoy classical music at<br />

traditional concert hall<br />

Musikverein, then retrace<br />

the footsteps of composers<br />

such as Beethoven, Strauss,<br />

Haydn and Mozart by visiting<br />

the houses they once lived<br />

in around Vienna.<br />

MARKET FINDS<br />

Spend an afternoon at<br />

Vienna’s multi-cultural food<br />

and flea market. Known as<br />

Naschmarkt, it spans over a<br />

mile and there are plenty of<br />

traditional sausage stands<br />

where visitors can stop for<br />

a Bratwurst and a beer.<br />

OPERATIC WONDER<br />

This stunning 1,709-seat<br />

building is the home of the<br />

Vienna State Opera and<br />

features an impressive central<br />

chandelier. It also hosts the<br />

annual Vienna Opera Ball,<br />

which attracts attendees<br />

from all over the world.<br />

HERITAGE HORSES<br />

The Spanish Riding School,<br />

home to the world-famous<br />

Lipizzaner stallions, is based<br />

at the Hofburg, a former<br />

imperial palace. The horses<br />

perform in the opulent<br />

baroque hall, in perfect<br />

unison with their riders.<br />

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SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 67


COLUMN<br />

For the love of books<br />

Books are another window<br />

to the world, and are a<br />

wonderful way to help<br />

minds stay stimulated<br />

during times of isolation. Our<br />

new Viking.TV site hosts a<br />

variety of recommended books<br />

(as well as films and music)<br />

relevant to each itinerary.<br />

ON LOCATION with Karine<br />

A<br />

more appropriate title<br />

to this month’s edition<br />

might be At Home with<br />

Karine, which is, of<br />

course true for all of us. I hope<br />

you are staying well and safe.<br />

These extraordinary times may<br />

have put a pause on travel, but we<br />

are looking at new ways in which<br />

we can stay connected, and share<br />

information – and inspiration – for<br />

when we can once again explore<br />

our wonderful world.<br />

WELCOME TO VIKING TV<br />

At the end of March, we launched<br />

Viking.TV, a new experience<br />

channel designed to be an<br />

uplifting place where we can<br />

all continue to virtually explore<br />

the world together – online.<br />

As well as daily live stream<br />

sessions, you’ll discover lots of<br />

additional programming at your<br />

fingertips on Viking.TV from short<br />

68 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

documentaries to reading lists<br />

and filmographies and classical<br />

music concerts, and much more.<br />

VIKING.TV WEEKLY<br />

SCHEDULE<br />

Museum Mondays<br />

The Munch Museum director,<br />

curator and conservationists<br />

host Museum Mondays behind<br />

closed doors for Privileged<br />

Access to one of the world's<br />

most interesting artists.<br />

Resident Historian Tuesdays<br />

Viking Resident Historians provide<br />

lectures on iconic milestones in<br />

world history and live Q&As.<br />

Arts & Music Wednesdays<br />

World-leading composers,<br />

conductors, photographers,<br />

artists, singers and musicians<br />

share insights into their creative<br />

worlds with you.<br />

Guest Speaker Thursdays<br />

Renowned journalist Anne<br />

Diamond interviews guests<br />

who have led or are leading<br />

extraordinary lives.<br />

At Home at Highclere Fridays<br />

Join the Earl and Countess of<br />

Carnarvon from their home,<br />

Highclere Castle, the historic<br />

country house that is the setting<br />

for the television series and film,<br />

Downton Abbey, every Friday.<br />

Wellness Weekends<br />

Mona Therese takes us through<br />

gentle yoga exercises to balance<br />

the mind and body during these<br />

extraordinary times.<br />

Exploring <strong>More</strong> with Karine<br />

Karine shares some of her<br />

favourite insights into world<br />

cultures through these awardwinning<br />

short documentaries.<br />

Clockwise,<br />

from above:<br />

Karine hosting<br />

Viking.TV at<br />

home; Heywood<br />

Hill bookshop;<br />

Karine gets lost<br />

in a book; inside<br />

Libreria Acqua<br />

Alta in Venice; the<br />

weekly schedule<br />

on Viking.TV<br />

HEYWOOD HILL<br />

One of the world’s leading<br />

literary collectors and influential<br />

booksellers, Heywood Hill,<br />

shares with Viking a curiosity<br />

and interest in the world’s many<br />

fascinating people and places.<br />

Together, we have curated<br />

an exclusive selection of books<br />

to enhance the experiences of<br />

Viking guests on board our ships.<br />

On Viking.TV you can listen to<br />

Heywood Hill Chairman, Nicky<br />

Dunne’s engaging talk entitled<br />

“Confessions of a Bookseller”,<br />

which was so popular that he<br />

returned for another episode<br />

where he interviewed the<br />

proprietor of the shop (and<br />

Nicky’s father-in-law) the Duke<br />

of Devonshire, who gave us<br />

Privileged Access and insights<br />

into his home, Chatsworth<br />

House, one of Britain’s finest<br />

great homes.<br />

DISCOVER TWO OF<br />

MY OTHER FAVOURITE<br />

BOOKSHOPS<br />

When I travel, I love to discover,<br />

sometimes by accident, some of the<br />

more unusual independent bookshops.<br />

These are invariably places where the<br />

owner is passionate about books.<br />

A UNIQUE, PERSONALISED GIFT<br />

Heywood Hill also provides a subscription service for individuals, where<br />

you can gift a year of books to friends and family based on their interests.<br />

I love the idea of book subscriptions, which I gave to my father and other<br />

special people in my life last Christmas, and now they get a surprise book<br />

in the mail every month, tailored to their interests!<br />

Libreria Acqua Alta<br />

This hidden treasure in Venice is<br />

an extraordinary shop run by the<br />

charismatic Luigi Frizzo, who believes<br />

that books “make your soul come<br />

alive”. A book lover’s paradise,<br />

Libreria Acqua Alta is a truly unique<br />

interpretation of what a book store<br />

should be. It reflects Luigi’s playful<br />

spirit and his unwavering passion<br />

for the written word. Libreria Acqua<br />

Alta has an eclectic collection of<br />

nearly 100,000 titles and includes<br />

a staircase made entirely of books!<br />

Shakespeare & Co.<br />

One of my favourite bookshops in the<br />

world is Shakespeare & Co. on Paris’s<br />

Left Bank. This literary haven was<br />

started in 1919 by a formidable woman<br />

and American idealist called Sylvia<br />

Beach, and it soon became a centre<br />

for American<br />

expats like Ernest<br />

Hemingway and<br />

F. Scott Fitzgerald.<br />

After the war,<br />

the bookshop<br />

was bought<br />

by American<br />

writer George<br />

Whitman and<br />

it became<br />

home to what<br />

he called<br />

tumbleweeds; aspiring writers who for<br />

years were able to work and live in the<br />

shop. The second floor is the library<br />

and has a room with beds for the<br />

tumbleweeds, as well as a piano. I’ve<br />

been to Shakespeare & Co. on several<br />

occasions when talented young<br />

pianists have been performing, and<br />

it’s been absolutely magical.<br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 69


TRAVEL<br />

THE RHINE,<br />

river of legends<br />

In the first of a new series looking at the great rivers of<br />

the world, we focus on the Rhine – a waterway that is as<br />

commercially important as it is picturesque<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

History rarely repeats<br />

itself on the Rhine.<br />

Every town, every<br />

castle, and just about<br />

every rock has its own story to tell.<br />

It’s a river blessed with fairytale<br />

castles, vineyard-strewn hills, deep<br />

forests and picture-book towns.<br />

One that the Romans defined as the<br />

edge of their empire. One where<br />

the Prussians built an innovative<br />

pontoon bridge to stop Napoleon’s<br />

advancing army. And one where,<br />

despite Hitler’s best efforts, US<br />

troops found a bridge still standing<br />

at Remagen, allowing Allied forces<br />

to enter the heart of Europe.<br />

Old Father Rhine, as the<br />

Germans fondly call it, is Europe’s<br />

busiest river, although there is<br />

little sense of this on a sunny day,<br />

drifting slowly past mile after mile<br />

of steep vineyards guarded by<br />

craggy castles and the occassional<br />

sleepy town basking on its banks.<br />

Although the Rhine is generally<br />

associated with Germany, the river<br />

flows through or along the border<br />

of several other countries, including<br />

Austria, Lichtenstein, France and<br />

the Netherlands. The river rises<br />

in the Swiss Alps, making its way<br />

through the great expanse of Lake<br />

Constance, emerging at one end to<br />

cascade 21 metres over the foaming<br />

Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen.<br />

Beyond Basel, the Rhine is<br />

navigable for river cruise vessels,<br />

which sail all the way between here<br />

and Amsterdam. The most famous<br />

(and most beautiful) stretch is the<br />

Romantic Rhine, or the Middle<br />

Rhine, where the river forces<br />

its way through a series of steep<br />

gorges, crossing the hilly heart of<br />

Germany’s wine-growing country.<br />

Beyond the city of Bonn,<br />

the landscape flattens out into<br />

what has become the country’s<br />

industrial heartland, the now<br />

broad and powerful river flowing<br />

through cities such as Cologne and<br />

Düsseldorf before splitting into<br />

several arms in the Netherlands<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

far left: Viking<br />

Mani sails along<br />

the picturesque<br />

Rhine; vineyards<br />

are a common<br />

feature in the hilly<br />

Middle Rhine area<br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 71


TRAVEL<br />

and draining into the North Sea.<br />

Several tributaries feed the<br />

Rhine, among them is the Necker,<br />

overlooked by the quaint university<br />

city of Heidelberg, and the Moselle,<br />

which twists and turns along a<br />

narrow, forest-clad valley.<br />

The Main flows through<br />

Frankfurt, Germany’s financial<br />

powerhouse but with a lovely old<br />

centre, the Römerberg (Roman<br />

Hill), where a series of elegant<br />

patrician houses have been joined<br />

to create the Rathaus (town hall).<br />

Then in nearby Würzburg, the<br />

Bishop’s Residenz is one of Europe’s<br />

finest baroque palaces, with ornate<br />

frescoes and immaculate gardens.<br />

Throughout history, the Rhine<br />

has defined borders and empires.<br />

Caesar’s armies reached what is<br />

now Cologne in 51 BC and built<br />

the first bridge, giving them access<br />

to the right bank and the hostile<br />

territories beyond. The waterway<br />

is dotted with former Roman<br />

settlements, vestiges of which<br />

remain in the form of ancient walls<br />

and watchtowers. By the Middle<br />

Ages, the Rhine was a treacherous<br />

route for sailors; every bend was<br />

guarded by a castle and bribes and<br />

taxes had to be paid to sail past.<br />

Passenger shipping in a much<br />

more civilised form began with the<br />

evolution of the paddle steamer in<br />

1836, returning after the war until<br />

the 1960s, when more modern<br />

hotel ships started to appear.<br />

Shipping on the river changed<br />

forever in 1992 with the opening<br />

of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal,<br />

an engineering masterpiece that<br />

allowed ships, for the first time, to<br />

sail all the way from the North Sea,<br />

along the Rhine, through the canal<br />

to join the Main, into the Danube<br />

and east to the Black Sea.<br />

There are many highlights of<br />

a Rhine voyage, from the rolling<br />

hills of the Black Forest to the<br />

half-timbered houses and market<br />

squares of Strasbourg, where hours<br />

can be whiled away in a street café,<br />

sampling fruity Alsace wines.<br />

For the length of the Rhine<br />

Gorge, the scenery is dominated<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

by imposing castles perched on<br />

impossibly sheer rocky outcrops,<br />

each one hiding stories and legends<br />

of dynastic battles and evil-doing.<br />

At St. Goarshausen, the river twists<br />

around jagged rocks in a series<br />

of deep whirlpools; it is here that<br />

the Lorelei nymph, according to<br />

legend, lured sailors to their deaths<br />

with her voice’s haunting beauty.<br />

The pretty little town of<br />

Boppard reveals layer upon layer<br />

of history; here, you can see the<br />

remains of what was once a series<br />

of 28 Roman watchtowers, and<br />

the town’s original medieval gates.<br />

In Cologne, ships moor close<br />

to the heart of the city, which is<br />

dominated by the magnificent<br />

Dom (Cathedral). Bonn and<br />

Düsseldorf, meanwhile, have a<br />

wealth of superb art museums and<br />

some of Germany’s finest shopping.<br />

Amsterdam, the final port on<br />

many Rhine voyages (or the first,<br />

depending on the direction of<br />

the trip), is packed with sights,<br />

from the graceful canals to the<br />

magnificent and newly re-opened<br />

Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank<br />

House and the Maritime Museum.<br />

Each season on the Rhine has<br />

its own charm. Spring is the time<br />

for admiring the glorious Dutch<br />

bulb fields, swathes of scarlet, blue,<br />

yellow and orange forming vast<br />

stripes across the landscape, and<br />

Keukenhof Gardens putting on a<br />

beautiful display of colours.<br />

<strong>Summer</strong> is the season of festivals,<br />

of long afternoons in riverside beer<br />

gardens and lazy days on deck as<br />

the ship drifts gently through lush<br />

vineyards and sunny meadows.<br />

In autumn, the woodlands in the<br />

Middle and Upper Rhine turn<br />

yellow and gold and the wine<br />

harvest comes in, which is always<br />

a cause for celebration. December<br />

is the season for Advent cruises,<br />

exploring a new Christmas market<br />

every day, shopping for handmade<br />

gifts and sampling mulled wine.<br />

Whatever the time of year, a<br />

voyage along the Rhine is a glimpse<br />

into the way this waterway has<br />

shaped European history.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

far left: Viking<br />

guests are able to<br />

enjoy lunch whilst<br />

appreciating the<br />

landscape of the<br />

Rhine region;<br />

Strasbourg comes<br />

to life at sunrise<br />

72 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 73


TRAVEL<br />

My SYDNEY<br />

Viking’s Cassie Wilcox lived in Sydney for 17 years. She shares<br />

what she loves most about the Australian city<br />

There is so much to love<br />

about Sydney, where<br />

do you start? Perhaps<br />

with Sydney Harbour,<br />

where Viking begins its Australia<br />

& New Zealand voyage.<br />

The most beautiful harbour<br />

in the world (yes, really), I never<br />

tired of gazing at it. Sydney has<br />

grown up around its harbour, bays<br />

and coves, and exploring its pretty<br />

harbourside parks and suburbs is<br />

easy. From Circular Quay next to<br />

Sydney Opera House, catch one of<br />

the little ferries in any direction:<br />

west to Glebe or Balmain, north<br />

to Kirribilli or east to Manly. In<br />

all these places, you can sit on the<br />

waterfront admiring the views or<br />

stop at a café for a coffee break.<br />

Speaking of which, the coffee<br />

in Australia is second to none, no<br />

doubt because of the huge wave of<br />

Italian migrants who now call ‘The<br />

Lucky Country’ home. Food and<br />

drink are a highlight of this city.<br />

The best Italian food I’ve eaten was<br />

here, often in little local restaurants<br />

where Mamma supervises the<br />

kitchen. The same is true for Thai<br />

and Vietnamese cuisine. Again, an<br />

enduring reward of immigration.<br />

Australian chefs are creative, and<br />

make the most of the abundant<br />

fresh produce, including fish and<br />

shellfish. For melt-in-your-mouth<br />

sashimi, visit Sydney Fish Market<br />

in Pyrmont, choose your fish<br />

(tuna is a favourite) and watch the<br />

fishmonger slice it for you before<br />

feasting on it by the harbour. Joy.<br />

Living in Sydney, I never took<br />

for granted the fact that I could<br />

finish work and head to the beach.<br />

There are lots to choose from:<br />

big, small, quiet, busy, surf or<br />

harbourside. My favourite was<br />

Clovelly – a tiny arc of sand framed<br />

by huge rocks in the city’s eastern<br />

suburbs. Bondi is of course the<br />

most iconic and you can explore it<br />

on one of Viking’s optional tours.<br />

Another Viking excursion takes<br />

you to the Blue Mountains, west<br />

of Sydney. Named for the natural<br />

blue haze from the eucalyptus trees<br />

that carpet the region, its lush<br />

forests are staggeringly beautiful,<br />

and offer great walking. I used to<br />

love visiting the Blue Mountains,<br />

especially in wintertime in July<br />

when the weather is cold and they<br />

celebrate Christmas, complete with<br />

a traditional Christmas lunch!<br />

Within the city, the Royal<br />

Botanic Gardens is a wonderful<br />

oasis of plants and trees with<br />

inspiring views over the harbour.<br />

The natural world and the great<br />

outdoors are never far away. This<br />

is a city that has public barbeques<br />

on the beaches and in the parks,<br />

and where dining al fresco is the<br />

norm, not the exception. Maybe<br />

the sunshine is why Sydneysiders<br />

are generally more relaxed and<br />

carefree. That sense of fun cannot<br />

help but rub off on you, and that is<br />

what I love – and miss<br />

– most about Sydney.<br />

The optimism, the<br />

humour and the<br />

freedom that is part<br />

of a can-do culture.<br />

Fun and carefree,<br />

Sydney is a city that<br />

never takes itself too<br />

seriously. It is a breath<br />

of fresh air, in more<br />

ways than one.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

below: Ferries<br />

berth in Circular<br />

Quay; Sydney<br />

excels with its<br />

fresh fish and<br />

shellfish; Cassie<br />

never tired of the<br />

iconic harbour<br />

PHOTOS: © I STOCK/ ADOBE STOCK<br />

74 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong>


<strong>Explore</strong> the mighty Mississippi,<br />

with Viking<br />

Celebrated in history and culture, the Mississippi River winds its way through<br />

America’s heartland, and Viking’s much-anticipated journeys along ‘Old Man<br />

River’ bring you the best of this exciting region. Experience St. Louis’s pioneer<br />

spirit and Natchez’ historic houses and southern hospitality. Stir your soul with<br />

Delta blues and New Orleans jazz. Retrace the steps of Cherokee pathfinders,<br />

Civil War soldiers and civil rights heroes. Savour Memphis barbeque, Gulf<br />

seafood and Creole cuisine. Inspired by our Viking Longships® and ocean<br />

ships, the brand-new Viking Mississippi is the most modern ship on the river.<br />

Mark Twain said the Mississippi has ‘a new story to tell every day.’ Come and<br />

create your own story with us, along this fabled river.<br />

Eight-day 2022 & 2023 Mississippi river journeys from £3,990pp<br />

Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk<br />

Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom<br />

on Heart of the Delta departing on 21 or 28 January 2023. Single supplements apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit<br />

vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.<br />

VC_EM_Mississippi_A4_v4.indd 1 18/05/<strong>2020</strong> 14:20:48


Embark on the ultimate adventure<br />

to the Arctic or Antarctica<br />

Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign<br />

and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent,<br />

that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.<br />

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic <strong>Explore</strong>r reveal a<br />

breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes<br />

to see wildlife in its natural habitat.<br />

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a<br />

world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed<br />

scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.<br />

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378<br />

guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is<br />

limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate<br />

adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.<br />

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our<br />

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the<br />

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk<br />

VC_Expeditions_Dec2019_A4_v7.indd 1 18/05/<strong>2020</strong> 15:21:33

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