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TRAVEL<br />
and draining into the North Sea.<br />
Several tributaries feed the<br />
Rhine, among them is the Necker,<br />
overlooked by the quaint university<br />
city of Heidelberg, and the Moselle,<br />
which twists and turns along a<br />
narrow, forest-clad valley.<br />
The Main flows through<br />
Frankfurt, Germany’s financial<br />
powerhouse but with a lovely old<br />
centre, the Römerberg (Roman<br />
Hill), where a series of elegant<br />
patrician houses have been joined<br />
to create the Rathaus (town hall).<br />
Then in nearby Würzburg, the<br />
Bishop’s Residenz is one of Europe’s<br />
finest baroque palaces, with ornate<br />
frescoes and immaculate gardens.<br />
Throughout history, the Rhine<br />
has defined borders and empires.<br />
Caesar’s armies reached what is<br />
now Cologne in 51 BC and built<br />
the first bridge, giving them access<br />
to the right bank and the hostile<br />
territories beyond. The waterway<br />
is dotted with former Roman<br />
settlements, vestiges of which<br />
remain in the form of ancient walls<br />
and watchtowers. By the Middle<br />
Ages, the Rhine was a treacherous<br />
route for sailors; every bend was<br />
guarded by a castle and bribes and<br />
taxes had to be paid to sail past.<br />
Passenger shipping in a much<br />
more civilised form began with the<br />
evolution of the paddle steamer in<br />
1836, returning after the war until<br />
the 1960s, when more modern<br />
hotel ships started to appear.<br />
Shipping on the river changed<br />
forever in 1992 with the opening<br />
of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal,<br />
an engineering masterpiece that<br />
allowed ships, for the first time, to<br />
sail all the way from the North Sea,<br />
along the Rhine, through the canal<br />
to join the Main, into the Danube<br />
and east to the Black Sea.<br />
There are many highlights of<br />
a Rhine voyage, from the rolling<br />
hills of the Black Forest to the<br />
half-timbered houses and market<br />
squares of Strasbourg, where hours<br />
can be whiled away in a street café,<br />
sampling fruity Alsace wines.<br />
For the length of the Rhine<br />
Gorge, the scenery is dominated<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
by imposing castles perched on<br />
impossibly sheer rocky outcrops,<br />
each one hiding stories and legends<br />
of dynastic battles and evil-doing.<br />
At St. Goarshausen, the river twists<br />
around jagged rocks in a series<br />
of deep whirlpools; it is here that<br />
the Lorelei nymph, according to<br />
legend, lured sailors to their deaths<br />
with her voice’s haunting beauty.<br />
The pretty little town of<br />
Boppard reveals layer upon layer<br />
of history; here, you can see the<br />
remains of what was once a series<br />
of 28 Roman watchtowers, and<br />
the town’s original medieval gates.<br />
In Cologne, ships moor close<br />
to the heart of the city, which is<br />
dominated by the magnificent<br />
Dom (Cathedral). Bonn and<br />
Düsseldorf, meanwhile, have a<br />
wealth of superb art museums and<br />
some of Germany’s finest shopping.<br />
Amsterdam, the final port on<br />
many Rhine voyages (or the first,<br />
depending on the direction of<br />
the trip), is packed with sights,<br />
from the graceful canals to the<br />
magnificent and newly re-opened<br />
Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank<br />
House and the Maritime Museum.<br />
Each season on the Rhine has<br />
its own charm. Spring is the time<br />
for admiring the glorious Dutch<br />
bulb fields, swathes of scarlet, blue,<br />
yellow and orange forming vast<br />
stripes across the landscape, and<br />
Keukenhof Gardens putting on a<br />
beautiful display of colours.<br />
<strong>Summer</strong> is the season of festivals,<br />
of long afternoons in riverside beer<br />
gardens and lazy days on deck as<br />
the ship drifts gently through lush<br />
vineyards and sunny meadows.<br />
In autumn, the woodlands in the<br />
Middle and Upper Rhine turn<br />
yellow and gold and the wine<br />
harvest comes in, which is always<br />
a cause for celebration. December<br />
is the season for Advent cruises,<br />
exploring a new Christmas market<br />
every day, shopping for handmade<br />
gifts and sampling mulled wine.<br />
Whatever the time of year, a<br />
voyage along the Rhine is a glimpse<br />
into the way this waterway has<br />
shaped European history.<br />
Clockwise, from<br />
far left: Viking<br />
guests are able to<br />
enjoy lunch whilst<br />
appreciating the<br />
landscape of the<br />
Rhine region;<br />
Strasbourg comes<br />
to life at sunrise<br />
72 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />
SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 73