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TRAVEL<br />

and draining into the North Sea.<br />

Several tributaries feed the<br />

Rhine, among them is the Necker,<br />

overlooked by the quaint university<br />

city of Heidelberg, and the Moselle,<br />

which twists and turns along a<br />

narrow, forest-clad valley.<br />

The Main flows through<br />

Frankfurt, Germany’s financial<br />

powerhouse but with a lovely old<br />

centre, the Römerberg (Roman<br />

Hill), where a series of elegant<br />

patrician houses have been joined<br />

to create the Rathaus (town hall).<br />

Then in nearby Würzburg, the<br />

Bishop’s Residenz is one of Europe’s<br />

finest baroque palaces, with ornate<br />

frescoes and immaculate gardens.<br />

Throughout history, the Rhine<br />

has defined borders and empires.<br />

Caesar’s armies reached what is<br />

now Cologne in 51 BC and built<br />

the first bridge, giving them access<br />

to the right bank and the hostile<br />

territories beyond. The waterway<br />

is dotted with former Roman<br />

settlements, vestiges of which<br />

remain in the form of ancient walls<br />

and watchtowers. By the Middle<br />

Ages, the Rhine was a treacherous<br />

route for sailors; every bend was<br />

guarded by a castle and bribes and<br />

taxes had to be paid to sail past.<br />

Passenger shipping in a much<br />

more civilised form began with the<br />

evolution of the paddle steamer in<br />

1836, returning after the war until<br />

the 1960s, when more modern<br />

hotel ships started to appear.<br />

Shipping on the river changed<br />

forever in 1992 with the opening<br />

of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal,<br />

an engineering masterpiece that<br />

allowed ships, for the first time, to<br />

sail all the way from the North Sea,<br />

along the Rhine, through the canal<br />

to join the Main, into the Danube<br />

and east to the Black Sea.<br />

There are many highlights of<br />

a Rhine voyage, from the rolling<br />

hills of the Black Forest to the<br />

half-timbered houses and market<br />

squares of Strasbourg, where hours<br />

can be whiled away in a street café,<br />

sampling fruity Alsace wines.<br />

For the length of the Rhine<br />

Gorge, the scenery is dominated<br />

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />

by imposing castles perched on<br />

impossibly sheer rocky outcrops,<br />

each one hiding stories and legends<br />

of dynastic battles and evil-doing.<br />

At St. Goarshausen, the river twists<br />

around jagged rocks in a series<br />

of deep whirlpools; it is here that<br />

the Lorelei nymph, according to<br />

legend, lured sailors to their deaths<br />

with her voice’s haunting beauty.<br />

The pretty little town of<br />

Boppard reveals layer upon layer<br />

of history; here, you can see the<br />

remains of what was once a series<br />

of 28 Roman watchtowers, and<br />

the town’s original medieval gates.<br />

In Cologne, ships moor close<br />

to the heart of the city, which is<br />

dominated by the magnificent<br />

Dom (Cathedral). Bonn and<br />

Düsseldorf, meanwhile, have a<br />

wealth of superb art museums and<br />

some of Germany’s finest shopping.<br />

Amsterdam, the final port on<br />

many Rhine voyages (or the first,<br />

depending on the direction of<br />

the trip), is packed with sights,<br />

from the graceful canals to the<br />

magnificent and newly re-opened<br />

Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank<br />

House and the Maritime Museum.<br />

Each season on the Rhine has<br />

its own charm. Spring is the time<br />

for admiring the glorious Dutch<br />

bulb fields, swathes of scarlet, blue,<br />

yellow and orange forming vast<br />

stripes across the landscape, and<br />

Keukenhof Gardens putting on a<br />

beautiful display of colours.<br />

<strong>Summer</strong> is the season of festivals,<br />

of long afternoons in riverside beer<br />

gardens and lazy days on deck as<br />

the ship drifts gently through lush<br />

vineyards and sunny meadows.<br />

In autumn, the woodlands in the<br />

Middle and Upper Rhine turn<br />

yellow and gold and the wine<br />

harvest comes in, which is always<br />

a cause for celebration. December<br />

is the season for Advent cruises,<br />

exploring a new Christmas market<br />

every day, shopping for handmade<br />

gifts and sampling mulled wine.<br />

Whatever the time of year, a<br />

voyage along the Rhine is a glimpse<br />

into the way this waterway has<br />

shaped European history.<br />

Clockwise, from<br />

far left: Viking<br />

guests are able to<br />

enjoy lunch whilst<br />

appreciating the<br />

landscape of the<br />

Rhine region;<br />

Strasbourg comes<br />

to life at sunrise<br />

72 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> | SUMMER <strong>2020</strong><br />

SUMMER <strong>2020</strong> | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.<strong>UK</strong> 73

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