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Jo Lee Magazine - Luxury Edition 2020

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NOSTALGIA AND YOU —————————————————————————————

La Nostalgie Et Vous | Nostalgia Y Usted | Nostalgia Und Sie |

Antipodean Beginnings

By Kerry Baker

Brisbane – Australia

In 1896, cosmetics giant Helena Rubenstein, at age 24, emigrated from Poland to Australia with little

money and less English. This enterprising achiever, while waitressing at a fashionable tearoom in

Melbourne, found an affluent admirer who was prepared to back her dreams of marketing beauty creams.

Her debut product was a face cream titled “Crème Valaze”. It cost her around ten pence to manufacture and

sold for six shillings a jar. It proved hugely popular and she was soon able to open a salon. Sydney was the

next metropolis to fall under the Rubenstein spell and another store was launched there. In 1908, with her

sister Ceska at the helm of the Melbourne shop, the profits from her Australian businesses were sufficient to

open an establishment in London, the Salon de Beauté Valaze.

She also married in London that year and in 1912 she and husband Edward Titus moved to Paris where she

again opened a signature beauty store. The advent of World War One saw them move to New York City

where, in 1915, she opened a cosmetics salon that was to lead to a veritable chain throughout the United

States.

But she did not have it all her own way in the expansion of the beauty dream. Elizabeth Arden was also a

canny businesswoman who knew the value of luxurious packaging, celebrity endorsements, and the

introduction of a form of pseudoscience with cosmetics. The women remained rivals for most of their

working lives.

By the mid-1930s Rubenstein’s empire was formidable and her connections impressive. When she set up her

famous spa on Fifth Avenue, Joan Miró assisted with the decoration. Salvador Dalí, as well as doing her

portrait, also designed a powder compact. From humble beginnings selling face creams, by 1937 the full

line of Rubenstein beauty products used lanolin suffused with lavender, water lilies and pine bark.

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