the Galapagos by Dan Erlandson, Science 24
A N A M A Z I N G Natural Habitat Adventure Located on the equator about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, the Galapagos are synonymous with Charles Darwin, his theory of evolution and the tremendously unique biodiversity that inhabits this area of the world. Sometimes referred to as the Enchanted Isles due to the “Garua,” or mist, that often encompasses them during the dry season of July to December, these 19 volcanic islands, primarily unpopulated by people, are right in the path of the collision of two major ocean currents, the northward moving Humboldt and the southward moving Panama current. They also sit in the middle of the ENSO or El-Nino phenomenon that dominates the ocean-atmosphere interaction in this part of the world. These three things – geographic isolation, proximity to colliding ocean currents and the lack of humans – are what have allowed the Galapagos to evolve such a unique array of biodiversity. I was lucky enough to have the special opportunity to travel to the Galapagos in August on a tour operated by Natural Habitat Adventures (www.nathab.com), a company founded and run by NA alum Ben Bressler ’80. Spending seven days aboard a luxury yacht in the Eastern Pacific, traveling to eight different islands, crossing the equator I don’t know how many times, hiking around volcanic islands, snorkeling with sea lions – it was an amazing journey! Each day began with a wonderful breakfast on board the yacht, the Letty, and then a short dingy ride to an island, to which we had arrived overnight. Since each island has its own unique microclimate and set of organisms, there was always an adventure awaiting. A very knowledgeable guide led us in small groups of nine on a hike through the habitat of the island where we saw the various forms of endemic wildlife (unique to the Galapagos) such as land and marine iguanas, lava lizards, albatrosses, flightless cormorants, blue and red footed boobies, frigate birds and giant tortoises. We discussed issues of biology, evolution, geology and human population and how these things have effected and are continuing to effect the biodiversity on these islands which are acting as living laboratories. The water around these islands is in the 65- to 70-degree range during the dry season due to the Humbolt current, so after a few hours on the island we would go back to the Letty and change into our wetsuits to snorkel. The volcanic nature of these islands has created, in many cases, sheer drop offs into the water right at the edge of the island, so you can snorkel up next to the island wall and experience tropical fish, reef sharks, sea turtles, sea lions, marine iguanas and even penguins, all swimming within your sight. Pretty cool! During a delicious and plentiful lunch and often a siesta, we arrived at yet another unique location that allowed us to hike among and snorkel with the amazing endemic flora and fauna. The evenings were filled with a briefing on the day and a glimpse of the next day’s adventures; conversation with the other passengers during dinner; and perhaps a glass of wine at the captain’s table. Later in the evening I would often wander to the top deck (dressed in my warmest clothes), chat with my fellow passengers, and watch the Milky Way and the nighttime sky unfold amidst the darkness of the unpopulated Pacific. 25
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