Explore More UK Winter 2020-2021

EXPLORE more 

See more of the world with Viking Winter 2020/21 £3.95 

ICONIC ISLANDS 

Highlights of a voyage to the Caribbean 

POLAR 

HORIZONS 

• THE ARCTIC OCEAN 

• TRIP OF A LIFETIME 

• ISLAND STOPOVER 

CULTURAL 

CITIES 

Discover the musical 

heritage of these 

fascinating hot spots

Embark on the ultimate adventure 

to the Arctic or Antarctica 

Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign 

and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent, 

that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales. 

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a 

breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes 

to see wildlife in its natural habitat. 

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a 

world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed 

scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes. 

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378 

guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is 

limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate 

adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort. 

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our 

equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the 

Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk 

VC_Expeditions_Dec2019_A4_v7.indd 1 18/05/2020 15:21:33

WELCOME 

Welcome to our winter edition of Explore More 

We are delighted to bring you a new issue to celebrate the start of an exciting new year 

ahead – a year which will mark a return to travel and the discovery of new destinations. 

Join us as we journey to the islands of the Caribbean and try your hand at recreating regional 

recipes bursting with sugar and spice. Meanwhile, in Europe, the wine expert Bartholomew 

Broadbent shares his recollections of an early trip to Budapest as a boy, and television producer 

Fi Cotter Craig revisits her childhood memories during a stop-off in the Shetlands. 

Our online channel, Viking.TV, continues to broadcast a range of fascinating interviews, and 

in this issue we meet the eye surgeon Rob Walters, who tells us about his volunteer work with 

the eye charity Orbis, a truly life-changing charity that Viking is thrilled to support. 

For those of you who love a real-life fairytale, we round-up our favourite fortresses, castles 

and palaces around the globe. For me, Venice is hard to beat as a destination, and I take a look 

at my ongoing relationship with this magical place. 

We wish you all a wonderful year ahead, and very much look forward to welcoming you 

on board again soon. 

With best wishes, 

Managing Director, Viking UK 

Tweet us: 

@VikingCruises 

Like us: 

facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK 

Follow us: 

instagram.com/vikingcruises 

 

Email us: 

uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com 

Find out more 

about the 

Viking Explorer 

Society 

on our website 

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 3

OFC_EM22V3_kate.indd 1 16/12/2020 11:47 

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Contents 

IN THIS ISSUE... 

EXPLORE more 

See more of the world with Viking Winter 2020/21 £3.95 

ICONIC ISLANDS 

Highlights of a voyage to the Caribbean 

POLAR 

HORIZONS 

• THE ARCTIC OCEAN 

• TRIP OF A LIFETIME 

• ISLAND STOPOVER 

CULTURAL 

CITIES 

Discover the musical 

heritage of these 

fascinating hot spots 

8 INSPIRING PEOPLE A spotlight on the work of Orbis, 

the charity that works to prevent and treat blindness 

18 KITCHEN INSPIRATION Caribbean recipes to try at home 

42 THE GREAT OUTDOORS Gardening in the new year 

50 ART SHOW We catch up with the curators of the 

exhibition pairing Edvard Munch and Tracey Emin 

54 MY ARCTIC Viking’s Director of Expedition Operations 

shares his relationship with this part of the world 

FEATURES 

10 ON THE ISLANDS Travel blogger Marcas Adams 

on why the Caribbean is calling 

22 FACING THE MUSIC From London to New Orleans, 

the global destinations to tick off your musical bucket list 

26 DANUBE DISCOVERY Join travel writer John Wilmott 

as he takes a look at the highlights of a voyage on the Danube 

34 CASTLE SECRETS Fabulous fortresses across the 

world that are well worth a visit 

46 SCOTTISH ISLES Fi Cotter Craig shares her highlights 

of a trip to the Shetland and Orkeny Islands 

REGULARS 

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events as well as 

more details about the Viking Cruises British Art Prize 2021 

16 CITY GUIDE: SAN JUAN A tour of the colourful 

colonial capital of Puerto Rico 

32 CITY GUIDE: PASSAU The picturesque Germanic 

town of Passau, right on the border with Austria 

44 FASHION A selection of seasonal pieces to complement 

and enhance every wardrobe 

52 CITY GUIDE: BERGEN The majestic city that looks out 

onto the North Sea, a gateway to the fjords 

Cover: The Caribbean region is 

teeming with flora and fauna 

62 EUROPE UNCORKED Wine connoisseur Bartholomew 

Broadbent takes a tour of the continent’s vineyards 

70 DREAMY DANUBE The story of the snaking river that 

weaves through the heart of Europe 

58 SECRETS OF THE DEEP The northernmost of the 

seas, the Arctic Ocean’s landscape is a spectacle to behold 

74 POSTCARD FROM... Wendy Atkin-Smith takes a tour 

of Venice and shares a few of her favourite moments 

66 VIKING BOOK CLUB A range of non-fiction books 

to inspire your next adventure 

68 KARINE ON LOCATION Executive Vice President Karine 

Hagen shares her highlights of St. Petersburg 

4 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2020/21 


NEWS 

Viking NEWS 

A round-up of the latest travel news and events 

from the world of Viking 

2022-2023 VIKING WORLD CRUISE 

Building on the success of our previous world cruise itineraries, we are 

excited to announce the new 2022-2023 Viking World Cruise journey. 

Taking in 28 countries over the course of 138 days, guests will be able 

to experience a huge 

range of cultures and 

climates as they travel 

the world. With shore 

excursions on offer in 

every port, as well as 

exclusive performances 

and concerts, guests will 

have the opportunity to 

pursue their interests 

and learn new skills. 

THANK YOU! 

Viking has won Best River Cruise 

Holiday Company at the prestigious 

British Travel Awards 2020 for the 

12th year running. A special thanks 

goes to everyone who voted, we are 

thrilled and so proud of the team. 

BEST IN SHOW 

We are thrilled to announce that 

Viking has won not only Best Boutique 

Cruise Line but also Best River Cruise 

Operator in The Times & The Sunday 

Times Travel Awards 2020. The awards 

are voted for by readers of The Times, 

Britain’s oldest national daily newspaper, 

and its sister title The Sunday Times, 

currently the biggest selling quality print 

newspapers in the UK, with over 330,000 

votes registered overall this year. 

“This recognition demonstrates that 

our loyal guests are looking forward 

to sailing again as soon as possible 

and reflects the demand for Viking’s 

destination focus and for our smaller 

ships with spacious public areas and 

staterooms,” said Wendy Atkin-Smith, 

Managing Director of Viking UK. “We 

are looking forward to the day we can 

welcome guests back on board.” 

THE VIKING CRUISES 

BRITISH ART PRIZE 2021 

Above: Viking 

Star is the first 

ocean ship to be 

fitted with a fullscale 

PCR testing 

laboratory 

HEALTH CHECK 

Viking has become the first cruise 

line to complete the installation 

of a full-scale polymerase chain 

reaction (PCR) testing laboratory 

at sea. The laboratory on board 

Viking Star has enough capacity for 

up to daily testing of every crew 

member and guest, which provides 

flexibility to respond to COVID-19 

prevalence levels around the world. 

In the coming months, Viking will 

complete the installation of PCR 

laboratories on the remainder of 

its ocean ships – and will also have 

a strong network of shoreside 

laboratories for its river ships. 

“The recently announced CDC 

guidelines are clearly aligned with 

our public health research, and 

we welcome the agency’s push 

toward testing, as we believe this 

is the only way to safely operate,” 

said Matt Grimes, Vice President of 

Maritime Operations for Viking. 

“In our view, continuous PCR 

testing, along with our extensive 

onboard hygiene protocols, will 

lead to making Viking ships a 

safe place to get away to and 

explore the world.” 

In addition to this, Viking has 

appointed surgeon and Vice 

Admiral Raquel C. Bono as Chief 

Health Officer to oversee the 

restart of operations, with a focus 

on public health. A retired Vice 

Admiral of the United States Navy 

Medical Corps, and a trauma 

surgeon, Dr. Bono most recently 

led Washington State’s medical and 

healthcare systems response to the 

COVID-19 pandemic. 

We are proud to announce the launch of this major 

new national open art competition which will provide 

artists of all levels with a platform to gain exposure 

and recognition for their work. Whether you are 

a hobby painter, an emerging artist or a seasoned 

professional, all styles, media, ideas and techniques 

will be considered. 

Launched in conjunction with four major consumer 

magazines – Artists & Illustrators, The London 

Magazine, Britain and The English Home – the winner 

will have access to a combined audience of almost 

a million art lovers and collectors. 

In addition, there is a prize fund worth more 

than £10,000 which includes art vouchers, cash 

prizes, a Viking river cruise worth £7,000 and a 

chance to win your own solo exhibition at London 

gallery Panter & Hall. 

Viking guests can enter for free, and the deadline 

for entries is 5pm on 21 January 2021. 

www.artistsandillustrators.co.uk/britishartprize 



CHARITY 

INSPIRING PEOPLE: 

Rob Walters 

We meet the consultant ophthalmologist who is also a volunteer 

surgeon for Orbis, the international non-profit organisation 

bringing people together to treat avoidable blindness 

ensure that everybody we see is 

always treated. We choose the cases 

that we treat in the Orbis Flying 

Eye Hospital based on things 

we would like to demonstrate to 

local students and doctors – it is 

essentially a teaching hospital. 

WHAT IS THE MOST COMMON 

PROCEDURE YOU UNDERTAKE? 

Undoubtedly it must be cataracts. 

It takes 15 minutes and is very 

inexpensive. It is the most 

common operation that we teach 

because it allows the countries 

that we visit to start serving their 

own population so effectively. 

Above: The 

Orbis Flying Eye 

Hospital is a 

state-of-the-art 

medical teaching 

facility that 

also houses an 

operating theatre 

MR. WALTERS, WHAT DREW YOU 

TO SPECIALISE IN EYE SURGERY? 

It is a truly extraordinary area to 

be in. After seeing my first cataract 

operation as a student I knew 

that was what I wanted to do. 

HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED 

WITH ORBIS? 

I’d heard about Orbis and I loved 

the concept of what they were 

doing in low and middle income 

countries, helping people who 

couldn’t help themselves. I was 

actually giving a lecture in Bristol 

and someone in the audience was 

working with Orbis and, after the 

lecture was over we chatted and 

they invited me to join them – it 

was like manna from heaven from 

my point of view. In 1994, I went 

on my first volunteer mission and 

I’ve worked with them ever since. 

CAN YOU TELL US A BIT 

MORE ABOUT THE WORK 

THAT ORBIS DOES? 

Orbis is a sight-saving charity, 

dedicated to the treatment and 

prevention of blindness – through 

a range of programmes, as well as 

through advocacy, instruction and 

capacity building. It is a very varied 

approach but very constructive. It 

is estimated that more than 250 

million people in the world are 

blind or have visual impairment, 

of which 75 per cent is treatable or 

preventable. Not only that but it is 

relatively cheap and easy to do. 

WHAT ROLE DOES THE ORBIS 

FLYING EYE HOSPITAL PLAY? 

The Orbis Flying Eye hospital is a 

great inspiration – it is unlike any 

plane you’ve ever seen before, and 

houses a state-of-the-art teaching 

facility complete with an operating 

room, classroom and recovery 

room. All three aircraft we’ve had 

have been donated, and the hospital 

equipment used onboard is all 

donated as well. It is extraordinary 

how generous people have been. 

HOW DOES ORBIS CHOOSE 

ITS PATIENTS? 

Many people who live in low and 

middle income countries don’t 

have access to medical care, and 

specifically eye care. We always 

HOW MANY COUNTRIES DOES 

ORBIS VISIT? 

We work in 19 different countries 

around the world – only 19 because 

we wish to work in depth for a 

long period of time and we work 

very closely with governments 

and with medical colleagues on 

the ground, with the idea that 

eventually we can withdraw and 

they can do it themselves. 

We also have a programme 

called Cybersight, which is a 

tele-medicine system (or a remote 

form of teaching) that reaches 

out to many more countries. For 

example, in 2019 we reached 

people in 183 countries. 

We could never presume to be 

able to treat the 253 million people 

needing treatment, so we always 

work at a very high level within 

the governments, with Ministers of 

Health and often Prime Ministers 

as well. We are very much working 

in partnership and often we learn 

as much as they learn from us. 

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO HELP 

PEOPLE TO SEE AGAIN? 

It is an amazing moment when the 

bandages are taken off and someone 

can see – the look of joy and 

amazement. I suppose one of my 

favourite cases was from one of my 

early trips with Orbis to Khartoum, 

in Sudan. We went to a huge 

refugee camp and I came across a 

young woman, 23 years old, being 

led by a child and totally dependent 

on other people. We examined her 

and it was evident that she had very 

dense cataracts. I operated on her 

and it went well. We saw her the 

next day, and it was the first time 

she’d seen for more than ten years, 

and she went on to lead a great life. 

Just to be able to contribute to your 

community is so important. 

To find out more and to donate, 

please visit www.orbis.org/Viking 

Above: One 

of many Orbis 

screening 

camps in the 

developing world; 

ophthalmologist 

Rob Walters with 

a patient 



TRAVEL 

ICONIC 

ISLANDS 

Travel blogger Marcus Adams sums up the charm of 

the Caribbean and recalls the highlights of his 

West Indies Explorer trip 

This page: 

St. Lucia’s famous 

Twin Pitons lit by 

sunset’s glow

TRAVEL 

There is nowhere quite like 

Caribbean. For me, it 

has always had a charm 

unique to this part of 

the world. Not only is it a treat for 

the senses with some of the mostfriendly 

people I’ve ever met, but 

it also forms crucial and important 

part of world history. 

Cruising as we know it today 

grew up very much in the waters 

of the Caribbean and those 

foundations have dramatically 

influenced the cruise ships of today. 

As the great liners of the 20th 

century were not able to compete 

with the speed and increasingly low 

cost of air travel, especially on key 

routes such as the Transatlantic, 

many ships found themselves being 

used more and more for leisure 

cruising, with the Caribbean 

welcoming guests to 365 days of 

sun, sea, sand and culture. 

Fast-forward to today and the 

Caribbean is the number one cruise 

destination in the world. It was 

the destination of my first cruise 

in 1993 and I grew up spending 

many of my summers there, either 

on cruises, or on dry land while my 

dad worked out there. Now, every 

time I visit the stunning shores 

of the Caribbean, I feel like I’m 

coming back to see an old friend. 

These days when I travel, I want 

to learn and immerse myself in 

destinations. It is one reason why I 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; GETTY IMAGES 

love travelling with Viking - sharing 

these magical experiences with likeminded 

travellers. 

The West Indies Explorer itinerary 

is no exception. This 11-day port 

intensive itinerary explores the 

southern Caribbean – 

by far my favourite 

part of the region. You 

will visit some of the 

most iconic islands in 

the world, including 

St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Antigua, 

St. Martin and to top it off, spend 

one-night in San Juan, the capital 

of Puerto Rico. I always say, if you 

are considering a cruise in a warmer 

climate, then there’s no better place 

to start than with the West Indies, 

whether you already know the 

Caribbean or if it’s your first 

time visiting. 

One of the reasons I love this 

part of the world so much is the 

different character of every island, 

Every time I visit the stunning 

shores of the Caribbean, I feel like I’m 

coming back to see an old friend 

though one thing that’s guaranteed 

everywhere is the warmth and 

welcoming atmosphere that the 

Caribbean is so well known for. 

One reason for the very different 

island-to-island atmospheres is of 

course the complex colonial history 

of the islands. I feel it is really 

important as a traveller to learn as 

much about the places you visit, 

including the history (the good, 

the bad and, of course, the ugly) 

in order to appreciate its culture. 

One reason I also 

love Viking is the 

variety of excursions 

available, and one is 

included in almost 

every port you visit. 

So, on an itinerary like this it 

really gives you the opportunity 

to immerse yourself in Caribbean 

culture. I’ve also found that on 

Viking trips, it’s fairly common 

for people to do more than one 

excursion a day. 

Clockwise, from 

far left: The 

colourful streets 

of San Juan Old 

Town; the lush 

Caribbean Sea 

lapping island 

shores; San Juan 

is a 16th-century 

capital settled 

by the Spanish; 

Viking Sea docking 

in St. Martin; 

delicious waffles 

on the menu 

at Mamsen’s 



TRAVEL 

Clockwise, 

from far left: 

Palm trees line 

a walkway to the 

beach; brightly 

painted harbourside 

buildings; 

local markets 

offer a variety 

of fresh produce 

On our adventure, we took 

part in a variety of excursions, 

including taking in the sights of 

Antigua by visiting the stunning 

Shirley Heights and learning about 

its cultural history at Nelson’s 

Dockyard. In San Juan, we donned 

our walking shoes and went on an 

immersive walking tour through 

the Old Town and learnt how 

the piña colada was invented (it 

would be rude not to sample one 

or two as well!) In Barbados, we 

enjoyed its famous pristine beaches 

and snorkelled with turtles and 

other flora and fauna in the coral 

reefs. Feeling a little more active, 

we also kayaked through tropical 

mangroves in St. Thomas. As you 

can see there’s no lack of choice 

to feed the mind, body and soul, 

depending on your preferences. 

Viking’s ocean ships are some 

of the most stunning and fabulous 

spaces, whether on land or at sea. 

They exude a comfortable scandichic, 

and are well-suited to a variety 

of destinations. But for me, it is in 

a warm climate that I find these 

ships come into their own. Imagine 

enjoying dinner with a locally 

inspired menu al fresco on the 

Aquavit Terrace watching the sunset 

over St. Martin. Or how about 

enjoying a Norwegian breakfast in 

I feel it is important as a traveller to 

learn all about the places you visit, the 

good, the bad and the ugly 

Mamsen’s in the Explorers’ 

Lounge while sailing into a new 

port-of-call? 

The Caribbean has something 

for everyone and will always be at 

the top of my list of places to visit 

again and again. Every visit brings 

new and exciting experiences. 

An 11-day 2022 West Indies 

Explorer trip starts from £3,290pp. 

HIGHLIGHT: THE KITCHEN TABLE 

This optional excursion sees you venture off the 

ship with one of the on-board chefs to explore 

and learn about the local markets and produce. 

Then, upon returning to the ship, you will spend 

time in the exclusive Kitchen Table space – an 

interactive kitchen area and culinary school – 

where you cook and prepare a meal together 

using these ingredients alongside the on-board 

chefs. It was thoroughly enjoyable and I cannot 

recommend this experience enough. 



CITY GUIDE 

San Juan 

Welcome to San Juan, where gin-clear waters lap 

sugar-soft sands and a colonial history emanates 

from colourful buildings around every corner 

Wander the 

cobbled city 

streets of 

Puerto Rico’s 

San Juan, its 

electrifying energy is palpable. 

Colourful Caribbean buildings 

and bustling markets make for an 

aesthetically appealing feast for 

the eyes, tantalising street food 

sizzles on every corner and the 

constant soundtrack of the salsa 

beat brings a certain vibrancy to the 

island’s shores. Founded in 1521, 

the capital is the second oldest 

European-founded settlement 

in the Americas and today the 

colonial buildings and fortresses 

serve as a reminder of its rich past, 

harking back to an era when this 

Puerto Rican hub was a crucial 

Spanish outpost, and pirates 

ruled the unchartered Caribbean 

waters. Today, the holiday season 

is San Juan’s busiest time of year. 

Starting at Thanksgiving and lasting 

through to Three Kings Day on 

January 6, Puerto Ricans go all out 

with celebrations, with delicious 

food and festive parrandas – a 

Puerto Rican version of caroling. 

The festivities culminate with the 

Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastian, 

known as la SanSe, a street festival 

on the streets of Old San Juan. 

Don’t miss 

• Make sure you pay a visit to Old 

San Juan, where locals sit under 

palm trees on shady plazas. Home 

to the San Juan National Historic 

Site, with buildings dating back 

to the 16th century, it is here that 

you’ll find the tomb of Spanish 

explorer Juan Ponce de León. 

• Unique to the capital are the old 

city walls and forts that overlook 

the calm waters of the capital, 

including the spectacular Fort San 

Felipe del Morro, an engineering 

feat that has long stood watch over 

the entrance of San Juan Bay. 

• San Juan’s capital is lined 

with resorts and several pristine 

beaches that boast gin-clear waters 

and sugar soft sands. Playa el 

Escambron sits to the east of the 

capital and is a picturesque spot 

featuring a coral reef, palms and 

excellent snorkelling opportunities. 

• Santurce is a neighbourhood 

steeped in modern culture and has 

a raw vitality fuelled by its lively 

street art scene. 

• The city is home to a wealth of 

interesting museums such as the 

Museum of Contemporary Art, 

housed in a neoclassical building 

with a wide collection of Latin 

American and Caribbean artists. 


above: Houses 

decorated in 

vibrant colours 

line a street in the 

city of San Juan; 

street food is a 

highlight of any 

visit to the city 

Fast facts 

• Christopher Columbus arrived 

in Puerto Rico in 1493, but the 

capital of the Caribbean island was 

not founded until 1521 by its first 

governor, Juan Ponce de León, who 

named it the City of Puerto Rico 

which translates to Rich Port. 

• The city’s Puerta de San Juan, or 

San Juan Gate, was built in the late 

1700s and is one of six heavy doors 

in the wall that lines the seafront. 

For centuries, these doors were 

closed at sundown to cut off access 

to the city and protect San Juan 

from invasion, today they make for 

a fun photograph opportunity. 

• Pre-Christopher Columbus, 

the local Taíno Indians referred 

to Puerto Rico as Borikén, which 

translatates to the ‘Land of the 

Valiant and Noble Lord’ rich port. 

• In the early 16th century, San 

Juan was the departure point for 

expeditions to the New World. 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK 

Insider Tips 

RELIGIOUS PAST 

Don’t miss the second oldest 

cathedral in the Americas, 

the Cathedral of San Juan 

Bautista. In shimmering 

white, the Roman Catholic 

church stands where the 

original cathedral was built 

in timber in 1521. 

GRAND DESIGNS 

The fascinating mix of 

architecture is a result 

of four centuries of 

development, with Gothic, 

Renaissance and Baroque 

styles all jostling for position 

in amongst the old Spanish 

Colonial buildings. 

DANCE OFF 

The streets are alive with 

the energy of salsa beats 

and locals pride themselves 

on their dancing skills. The 

sound of Latin music floods 

the city in the evening, 

as people get together 

to dance and socialise. 

LOCAL TREATS 

From sweet churros to go 

with a morning coffee to 

quesitos (a cream cheese 

pastry) and alcapurrias 

(a snack made of mashed 

plantain and pork or beef), 

a great way to see the city 

is through its food. 



RECIPES 

Caribbean cuisine 

Embrace the laid-back lifestyle and transport 

yourself to the beach with these easy-to-make 

aromatic recipes bursting with flavour 

JERK CHICKEN 

Serves 4–6 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 2 scotch bonnet or jalapeño 

chilli peppers, chopped 

• 2 tbsp thyme 

• 1 tbsp ground allspice 

• 4 cloves garlic, chopped 

• 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 

• 2 tbsp honey 

• 2 tsp salt 

• 2 tsp ground black pepper 

• 1 lime, juiced 

• 45ml (1 ½ fl oz) olive oil 

• 4 chicken breasts, cubed, or a 

whole chicken, cut into pieces 

1. Place all the ingredients apart 

from the chicken in a blender 

and process until smooth. Pour 

the marinade over the chicken 

and allow to marinate for at 

least an hour. 

2. Either grill the marinated 

chicken on a barbecue until 

cooked through, or bake in 

the oven at 200°C for 25 to 

30 minutes, turning half way 

through the cooking time. Serve 

immediately with rice‘n’peas. 

RUM PUNCH 

Makes one serving 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 25ml (¾ fl oz) lime juice 

• 45ml (1 ½ fl oz) sugar cane syrup 

• 65ml (2 ¼ fl oz) dark 

Jamaican rum 

• 90ml (3 fl oz) water 

• A sprinkling of freshly 

grated nutmeg 

1. In a wide glass tumbler, combine 

all the ingredients over ice cubes 

and stir well. 


above: Jerk huts 

selling this spicy 

local dish can be 

found all over 

the Caribbean; 

many variations 

of rum punch 

have evolved 

throughout 

the region 

Opposite: 

Colourful houses 

line the whitesand 

beaches and 

are gently shaded 

by palm trees 


2. To make a larger batch, use the 

tumbler to measure each ingredient 

into a jug (one cup of lime juice, 

two cups of sugar cane syrup, 

and so on). 


For Vaishnavi’s sake, 

please don’t turn 

a blind eye 

Three quarters of 

people who are blind 

don’t need to be. With 

access to treatment their 

sight loss could have been 

prevented. 

Sign up to CatarAction by Orbis 

and help combat cataracts – the 

leading cause of blindness 

around the world. 

Just £10 a month can help offer 

surgeries to those most in need, 

giving people like Vaishnavi 

the gift of sight. In return we’ll 

send you three updates a year 

to show how you’re making a 

difference. 

“Blindness is especially cruel when you know 

it can be avoided. It’s a condition close to all 

our hearts and at Viking we are committed to 

helping Orbis bring people together across 

the world to fight avoidable blindness in their 

own communities.” 

Karine Hagen, Executive Vice President of Viking 

Sign up before 31st January 2021 and you will automatically be entered 

into a prize draw to win an eight-day river cruise on the Rhine with Viking, 

departing on any eligible date in 2021! 

Pledge your support to treat cataracts, with 

a monthly gift today. 

Visit cataraction.org/Viking 

www.orbis.org.uk • 020 7608 7269 • icare@orbis.org.uk 

Orbis, Sixth Floor, 10 Lower Thames Street, London EC3R 6AF 

Orbis Chartiable Trust, an affiliate of Orbis International, is a registered charity no. 1061352 and a company limited by guarantee no. 3303689 (England & Wales) 

CaterAction Display Ad 210x297 Final AW.indd 1 03/12/2020 11:22

ITINERARY 

Great Lakes 

Immerse yourself in the lakes’ compelling history and 

experience the power of thundering Niagara Falls in this 

fascinating region on the USA-Canada border 

Above: The 

mighty Niagara 

Falls is a group of 

three waterfalls at 

the southern end 

of Niagara Gorge 

DAY 1 / TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA 

Arriving into Canada’s largest city, you will have time to 

settle into your stateroom and to explore your ship. 

DAY 2 / WELLAND CANAL & NIAGARA 

FALLS, ONTARIO, CANADA 

Enjoy a scenic cruise through the locks of the Welland 

Canal, a man-made shipping channel that connects 

Lake Ontario to Lake Erie. From Port Colborne, head off 

to visit the mighty Niagara Falls – walk along the top of 

the gorge or get up close during a thrilling boat cruise. 

DAY 3 / POINT PELEE, ONTARIO, CANADA 

The southernmost point on the Canadian mainland, 

Point Pelee is an important stopover point for 

migratory birds; more than 350 different species have 

been spotted on this tiny sandspit that juts into the 

northwestern corner of Lake Erie. Canoe or kayak 

through the marshlands, or hike along park trails. 

DAY 4 / DETROIT, MICHIGAN, USA 

Nicknamed “Motor City” and considered by many as 

the automobile capital of the world, Detroit sits on 

the border with the US and Canada. Visit the Henry 

Ford Museum of American Innovation and tour the 

renowned Detroit Institute of Arts museum. 

DAY 5 / ALPENA, MICHIGAN, USA 

Alpena is the gateway to the Thunder Bay National 

Maritime Sanctuary, an underwater preserve that 

protects an estimated 200 sunken vessels spanning 

much of the Great Lakes’ history of shipping. Paddle 

a kayak along the shoreline and view several of these 

shipwrecks that rest in the shallows, then learn more 

about the region’s strong ties to Lake Huron during a 

visit to the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Centre. 

DAY 6 / MACKINAC ISLAND, MICHIGAN, USA 

Enjoy an exciting day on idyllic Mackinac Island, located 

in the Straits of Mackinac, which link Lake Huron and 

Lake Michigan. Motor vehicles are banned here, and 

the only way to access the island is by boat. Take a 

sightseeing excursion by horse-drawn carriage, or dine 

at the elegant Grand Hotel, a Victorian-era building 

with the world’s longest front porch. 

DAY 7 / TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN, USA 

Traverse City – the “Cherry Capital of the World” – is 

surrounded by sand dunes, beaches, rolling hills and 

clear-blue waters. Indulge in the city’s emerging culinary 

scene during a trip around the Leelanau Peninsula 

or take a hike through Sleeping Bear Dunes National 

Lakeshore which offers sweeping views of its namesake 

dunes and Lake Michigan. 

DAY 8 / MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, USA 

Disembark your ship, or extend your experience with 

a post-cruise stay in Chicago. 

An eight-day 2022 Niagra & the Great Lakes 

journey from Toronto to Milwaukee, or in reverse, 

starts from £5,495pp. 



CULTURE 

BERGEN 

Best known for his 

Piano Concerto in A 

Minor and Peer Gynt, 

Norwegian Edvard 

Grieg was a leading 

composer of the Romantic era. 

During your stay in Bergen on 

a Viking Homelands cruise, you 

can visit the composer’s historic 

home. You’ll also be treated to an 

exclusive recital of Grieg’s music, 

an unforgettable experience. 

TOP 10 

TOP 10 MUSICAL 

DESTINATIONS 

From traditional folk songs and Caribbean beach 

beats to the classical chords of Europe’s grand cities, 

music is a wonderful soundtrack to our travels 

THE WEST INDIES 

In the Caribbean, music 

festivals such as Carnival 

take place throughout 

the year, and every island 

has its own genres. From 

the steel pan drums in 

St. Kitts and salsa in 

Puerto Rico to calypso in 

St. Lucia, there is sure 

to be something that 

floats your boat. 

ST. PETERSBURG 

Russia’s musical culture is so precious to its people that 

even during the Soviet era, theatre companies such 

4 

the Bolshoi and the Kirov (now called Mariinsky) were 

protected. On our Waterways of the Tsars trip, you 

BARCELONA 

can enjoy a sensational performance of Tchaikovsky’s 

Spain’s most creative city is home 

Swan Lake, with champagne served on the 

to a feast of exciting music. And 

balcony in the interval. 

few music genres are more exciting 

than flamenco. On a Romantic 

Mediterranean ocean cruise, stay 

overnight in Barcelona, and have 

the opportunity to feel your spirit 

soar with an authentic footstomping, 

hand-clapping, heartracing 

flamenco performance. Olé! 

BERLIN 

This uber-cool city has influenced 

many great names in music including 

David Bowie. But Berlin is perhaps 

best loved for its classical heritage 

and on our Elegant Elbe river journey, 

a two-night hotel stay enables you to 

book concert tickets ahead. Why not 

visit the sumptuous Charlottenburg 

Palace for a wonderful performance 

by the Berlin Residence Orchestra? 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK5 



CULTURE 

6LONDON 

The English capital’s 

rich musical history has 

deep roots dating back 

to the Victorian era, 

when British music halls 

entertained the masses. 

Leaving a strong legacy in their wake, these 

halls paved the way for the London’s live music 

scene to thrive. Today, the city is known for its 

iconic venues, from The Royal Albert Hall with 

its classical concerts and the Roundhouse in 

Camden offering a wide variety of genres, to 

the many bars and venues lining the cobbled 

backstreets of Soho. Venturing north east of 

the river will take you to Abbey Road Studios, 

where Beatles fans mimic the routine pictured 

on the band’s iconic 1969 album cover. 

NEW ORLEANS 

Music fills the streets of this prominent 

Louisiana city, known as the birthplace 

of jazz. Music and history are deeply 

intertwined in New Orleans, and both 

its African heritage and the wave of 

immigrants that landed here have greatly 

inspired how music has evolved. The Big 

Easy is best known for its Mardi Gras 

celebration – a colourful brigade of 

floats, fancy dress and brass bands. 

PORTUGAL 

Born along the waterfront, 

the dramatic songs of 

fado (literally ‘fate’) speak of 

life, struggle and passion. The 

genre originated in Portugal in 

the early 1800s and quickly took 

its place as the music of the country. 

In 2011, UNESCO recognised fado 

on its Intangible Cultural Heritage 

list. Experience this soulful music as 

you dine at the historic Alpendurada 

Monastery, overlooking the beautiful 

Douro River. 

DUBROVNIK 

Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town is 

especially magical at night and 

guests on a Mediterranean Odyssey 

journey can book an optional 

excursion to the spectacular Sponza 

Palace where you can take a seat in 

the 16th-century cloistered courtyard 

for an exclusive performance of traditional music 

and dance. Dressed in colourful national costumes, 

the award-winning troupe thrill audiences with 

their talent and energy. 

10 

VIENNA 

Known as the City of Music, Vienna is a 

must for classical music fans. Many of the 

greats lived and worked here, including 

Beethoven, Brahms, Mozart, Strauss, 

Mahler, Haydn and Schubert, and the 

city holds annual festivals to celebrate 

their music. Feel your heart sing at 

an optional exclusive performance 

in a Viennese palace on a delightful 

journey along the Danube. 




TRAVEL 

This page: 

The spectacular 

view overlooking 

the Danube as it 

cuts through the 

city of Budapest 

A Spiritual Journey 

Travel writer John Wilmott admires 

the rich religious architecture on a trip 

along the Upper Danube 



TRAVEL 

Left to right: 

Göttweig Abbey 

is a Benedictine 

monastery 

near Krems, 

in Austria; 

façade detail 

of St. Peter’s 

Cathedral 

It is easy to be impressed by the 

magnificent design of Austria’s 

Göttweig Abbey, especially 

when standing under the 

luminous frescoed ceiling at the top 

of the Baroque Kaiser Staircase. 

However, if you take the time to 

absorb the stories from your guide, 

along with the friendly ambience 

of this 11th-century Benedictine 

monastery, you’ll appreciate a less 

tangible aspect of its stormy history. 

Unlike many monasteries, 

where the monks have led an 

insular, contemplative life, those 

at Göttweig have long thrown 

open their doors to the outside 

world. They have reached out to 

schools and hospitals, teaching and 

nurturing, and, more recently, have 

provided support for refugees. 

The Abbey also reaches out to its 

communities in the most manifest 

way, topping a forested hill 

overlooking Austria’s resplendent 

Wachau Valley. The view is best 

embraced with a coffee on the 

terrace, on which you can mull over 

the fact that more than 600,000 

tiles are being replaced to restore 

the giant complex’s roof. 

Göttweig, near the riverside 

town of Krems, can be explored 

on Viking’s Romantic Danube and 

Danube Waltz cruises – as can 

many other religious monuments. 

You don’t have to be devout to 

appreciate the beauty and history 

of these sacred buildings. 

If you start your journey 

in Budapest, the monumental 

Parliament Building and the 

memorable vista from Fisherman’s 

Bastion will inevitably capture 

some of your time. Close to the 

latter, in the Castle District, do 

check out Matthias Church. This 

late Gothic masterpiece boasts a 

striking bell tower and one of the 

most richly decorated interiors 

you’ll find anywhere. 

Bratislava in Slovakia will 

come as a pleasant surprise to 

those who delve into its maze 

of streets. You can’t miss the 

monolithic castle that dominates 

the city, but wander beneath to 

find St. Martin’s Cathedral. It’s not 

the most immediately impressive 

church; its significance lies in 

its use for the coronation of 

Hungarian royalty between the 

16th and 19th centuries. 

Close by, among the cobbled 

lanes, is the Holy Saviour Church, 

built at a time in the 17th century 

PHOTOS: © ALAMY; ISTOCK; GETTY 

when protestant places of worship 

where not permitted to resemble 

Catholic buildings. Unusually, it 

therefore has a tall triangular roof 

instead of a spire. 

Palace-packed Vienna is infused 

with music and 

Habsburg glory. 

It’s also the city in 

which St. Stephen’s 

Cathedral, one 

of my favourite 

churches, soars to 

446ft via its southern spire. 

Its present form is from the 

14th and 15th centuries and 

countless stories are entwined 

with its past, including those of a 

mammoth bone hung over its main 

door and how a German captain 

refused orders to destroy the 

cathedral when troops retreated in 

the Second World War. 

If you like superlatives, Linz’s 

New Cathedral is the largest 

church in Austria. This hulking 

Gothic monument, consecrated in 

1924, can accommodate 20,000 

You don’t have to be devout to 

fully appreciate the beauty and history 

of these sacred buildings 

worshippers. Make time to inspect 

the stained glass windows, one of 

which tells the history of the city. 

In colourful Passau you’ll find 

another cathedral dedicated to 

St. Stephen, a Baroque confection 

in white with green domes atop the 

towers, which opened just six years 

after its predecessor burned down 

in 1662. Its claim to fame has now 

gone; it held the world’s largest 

pipe organ record until the 1990s, 

though with a mind-boggling 

17,774 pipes it’s still a 

remarkable instrument. 

The haughty 

west façade of the 

French Gothic 

St. Peter’s Cathedral 

looms above the 

Domplatz of 

Regensburg in 

Bavaria. Its twin towers are among 

a cluster of spires that poke above 

the streets of this picturesque city. 

Close to the river, construction of 

this landmark began in the late 13th 

century but the cathedral did not 

fully open for another 250 years. 

Look out for the menacinglooking 

gargoyles on the exterior, 



TRAVEL 


A daytime 

aerial view of 

Vienna city from 

observation deck 

of St. Stephen’s 

Cathedral; an 

angel depicted 

in a stained-glass 

window at 

St. Martin’s 

Cathedral in 

Bratislava 

a contrast to the laughing angel 

statue within. The cathedral is 

also home to some of Europe’s 

most revered stained glass and a 

famed boys’ choir. 

Not far upstream is another 

significant abbey, Weltenburg. 

Unlike Göttweig it sits right by the 

water, set around a highly scenic 

bend in the Danube Narrows 

which carve a course through 

the mountains. 

Founded in the 7th century 

(though the current buildings are 

much newer), its brewery is almost 

as old and has been operating ever 

since – guests on a Viking excursion 

get to try a brew, of course! 

This formidable structure fronts 

a beach in the stunning gorge but 

the biggest delight is the Baroque 

St. George’s Church. Beneath its 

flamboyant red roof and greentopped 

spire is a clever ceiling 

fresco that makes the flat surface 

appear domed. 

Whichever of the two Upper 

Danube Viking itineraries you 

choose, you are certain to discover 

some of Europe’s finest cathedrals 

and churches – guaranteed to lift 

your spirits. 

Viking’s Danube trips include 

the eight-day Danube Waltz, 

the eight-day Romantic 

Danube and the 15-day 

Grand European Tour. 



CITY GUIDE 

Passau 

A small town in the south-eastern corner of 

Germany, Paussau is oft-overlooked, but the 

‘City of Three Rivers’ has grand historic origins 

W 

ith a history 

dating back 

to the 2nd 

century BC that 

encompasses 

an ancient Celtic tribe, then the 

Batavi people, a Roman colony, the 

diocese of Passau founded in 739, 

and more, the city is one of the 

oldest in Bavaria. 

Wealthy since Roman times, 

Passau prospered from the salt 

trade between nearby Bohemia (the 

modern-day Czech Republic), and 

Bad Reichenhall near Salzburg. 

During the Renaissance, the city 

was renowned as a centre of sword 

manufacture, and its picturesque 

location and Italianesque 

streets make it an ever-popular 

destination, renowned for its 

Gothic and Baroque architecture. 

Today’s visitors can enjoy 

colourful markets, cobbled 

streets populated with artisan 

boutiques, spectacular views of 

the Dreiflüssestadt (City of Three 

Rivers) confluence where the 

Danube meets the Inn from the 

south and the Ilz from the north, 

and some impressive historic 

buildings and museums. 

With its centuries’ long 

association with religion, Passau 

is also a favoured pilgrimage site. 

From ancient fortresses to episcopal 

palaces, modern art to ancient 

glassware, there’s something for 

everyone in Passau. 

Don’t miss 

• Step inside Dom St. Stephan, 

a huge sparkling white baroque 

cathedral with an impressive tiled 

roof and stunning ceiling. Its 

organ is the largest in Europe 

and has almost 18,000 pipes. 

• Stroll or cycle along the 

Innpromenade or take a picnic to 

the point where the three rivers 

meet. Each river is a different 

colour and their swirling confluence 

is an intriguing sight. 

• Climb the heavenly ladder of 

321 pilgrimage steps to the 

Mariahilf Monastery and visit the 

chapel with its own interesting 

artefacts and impressive views. 

• Follow the painted cobbles 

to Artists’ Alley and check out 

work by local artists. Stop at the 

nearby Glasmuseum Passau with 

the world’s largest collection of 

European glass and visit the Alte 

Rathaus (Old Town Hall) which 

dates to the 14th century. 

• Visit the baroque St. Paul’s 

Church. Founded in 1050 it’s the 

oldest in Passau. Whilst it can’t 

boast the grandeur of St. Stephan’s, 

it holds a charm of its own. 


The riverside 

Sanctuary 

Mariahilf in 

Passau; a Viking 

Longship sails 

into the historic 

city of Passau 

Fast facts 

• The population of Passau is only 

around 50,000 people, of whom 

about 10,000 are students who 

attend the renowned University. 

• Renaissance metal smiths 

stamped their blades with the image 

of the Passau wolf. The popular 

practice of placing magical charms 

on swords to protect the wearers 

became known as ‘Passau art’. 

• In 1662, a devastating fire 

consumed most of the city's 

architecture. It was subsequently 

rebuilt in the Baroque style. 

• Passau is on the Danube bike 

trail which begins upstream and 

follows the river until it meets 

the Black Sea. 

• In early May residents attend 

the popular the Maypole festival 

(Maibaumkraxeln) in nearby 

Austria. Local men tar their hands 

and feet and attempt to race to 

the top of a very tall pole. 


Insider Tips 

TRADITIONAL WEAR 

Popular local souvenirs 

include original Bavarian 

Lederhose or Dirndl 

(traditional 19th-century 

dress) or a Bavarian hat. 

Or you could buy a selection 

of pretzels and dampfnudel 

(sweet roll). 

A LIVING MUSEUM 

The Scharfrichterhaus 

hosts a political cabaret 

for German comedians. 

Translating as ‘executioner’s 

house’, the building dates 

from 1200 and includes a 

Viennese coffeehouse as 

well as a formal restaurant. 

FOR DOG-LOVERS 

The quirky Dackelmuseum 

is home to a fine collection 

of dachshund memorabilia 

and a fun way to spend an 

afternoon. Expect to find 

an array of figurines, toys, 

pictures and books from 

around the world. 

RISING TIDE 

Because of its location on 

the three rivers, the town 

floods fairly regularly, most 

recently in 2013 when water 

levels reached 12.85 metres 

(42.2 ft). Historic high-water 

marks can be found on 

the Town Hall. 



DISCOVERY 

This page: 

Marksburg Castle 

looks over the 

town of Braubach, 

in Germany 

Fantastic 

FORTRESSES 

From fairy-tale castles to impenetrable fortresses, Oonagh Turner 

shines a light on the mesmerising buildings that you can visit on 

selected river and ocean journeys with Viking 


DISCOVERY 

MATEUS PALACE, PORTUGAL 

The house and gardens of Casa de Mateus are fine 

examples of baroque Portuguese design and thought 

to be the work of Italian-born architect Nicolau 

Nasoni. Built in the 18th Century, the exterior is 

made up of the manor, the enchanting winery and 

the chapel. Every intricacy of the building, it’s spires 

and surrounding lush greenery reflect elegantly onto 

the garden’s pond and make for the perfect photo 

opportunity. Inside, the library is home to one of the 

first illustrated editions of Luis Vaz de Camoes’ Os 

Lusiadas, Portugal’s most famous poem among other 

fascinating finds and treasures in the wine cellar. 

The Portugal’s River of Gold trip includes an 

excursion to this beautiful palace and gardens. 

MARKSBURG CASTLE, GERMANY 

A romantic 13th-century castle perched high above 

the sleepy Germanic town of Braubach, Marksburg 

stuns tourists with its magical turrets and spiralling 

towers. The castle’s location right on the Rhine means 

visitors get spectacular views as the river bends and 

arches its way through sprawling German countryside. 

Its hilltop location has proved famously impenetrable 

since its initial erection in 1117. A tour takes you 

round its Gothic hall and what was once a torture 

chamber. Today, the castle belongs to the German 

Castles Association, which carefully preserves medieval 

fortifications for future generations. 

Learn more about this landmark during an 

excursion on a Grand European Tour journey. 

Clockwise from 

above: Reichsburg 

Castle towers 

above the Moselle 

River, in Germany; 

Schönbrunn 

Palace is a 

UNESCO World 

Heritage Site and 

one of Austria’s 

most-visited 

tourist attractions; 

Mateus Palace, in 

Portugal, reflected 

in all its glory 




DISCOVERY 

CATHERINE PALACE, RUSSIA 

This spectacularly ornate Rococo palace is located 

south of St. Petersburg and was once the summer 

residence of the Tsars, who left their mark in the form 

of signature Rastrelli design. The palace was created 

under Empresses Elizabeth and Catherine the Great 

during the 18th Century and was named after Peter 

the Great’s second wife, its history pulling in tourists 

from far and wide. It boasts fabulous grounds, but it’s 

the palace’s interiors that really shine, with the Great 

Hall, the Arabesque Hall and the world-famous Amber 

Room with its decorative amber, mirror and gold leaf 

panels that leaves visitors dazzled. 

Guests travelling on the Waterways of the Tsars 

journey have the opportunity to appreciate the 

baroque architecture of Catherine Palace. 

CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE, DENMARK 

Located in the heart of Denmark’s capital, 

Copenhagen, Christiansborg Palace enchants with 

its 12th-century opulence, royal reception rooms 

exhibiting precious tapestries, expansive palace 

grounds and public galleries. At 106 metres tall, the 

Palace has the highest tower in the city – narrowly 

topping the city hall tower – offering views of the city’s 

red rooftops that visitors can climb. Once home to 

monarchy, it is now the seat of the Danish Parliament 

and the house of the Queen’s Royal Reception rooms. 

REICHSBURG CASTLE, GERMANY 

The castle that towers over the town of Cochem on the 

Moselle River has had a colourful history. Originally 

built to collect tolls from passing ships around 1100, 

it changed hands between various monarchies before 

falling victim to French troops in 1689. Standing tall 

but ruined for centuries, it wasn’t until the late-19th 

Century that a wealthy Berliner snapped it up and 

restored it to its former glory. Take a tour to discover 

the 1,000 years of varying tastes that narrate its 

fascinating history and enjoy the expansive views. 

SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE, AUSTRIA 

Once the main summer residence of the Hapsburg 

rulers, Vienna’s Schönbrunn Palace is a magnificently 

important architectural monument with a heritage 

spanning back over 300 years. Sometimes referred 

to as the Austrian Palace of Versailles, it has a certain 

renaissance feel in its lavishness and grandeur that 

is reminiscent of the Parisian palace. There is an 

impressive 435 acres of immaculate garden, the palace 

itself houses around 1,000 people, and its interiors are 

decorated with gold, mirrors and frescoes. 

BLARNEY CASTLE, IRELAND 

Cork’s Blarney Castle was built nearly 600 years 

ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftans, Cormac 

MacCarthy and still today retains its reputation as 

one of Ireland’s greatest treasures and tourist 

attractions. At the heart of the castle is the historic 

Blarney stone. Legend has it that touching the 

Blarney Stone with your lips bestows you with the 

gift of eloquence. As for the grounds and gardens, 

Blarney has a certain aura of magic and folklore with 

its wishing steps and druid’s caves. 

Clockwise, 

from far left: 

Christiansborg 

Palace in 

Copenhagen 

the façade of 

Catherine Palace 

in St. Petersburg 

Take in the exceptional views over the city 

during an optional excursion to Christiansborg 

Palace on a Viking Homelands trip. 

A visit to the ancient Reichsburg Castle is 

included on a cruise of the Moselle River with 

the Cities of Light itinerary. 

Tour the magnificent home of the Hapsburg 

dynasty as an optional excursion whilst in 

Vienna during a Romantic Danube trip. 

A sightseeing trip to Blarney Castle, near 

Cork, is an included excursion for guests on 

the Viking’s Northern Isles journey. 



TRAVEL 


above: Malbork 

Castle, in Poland, 

has a religious 

past; Hiroshima 

Castle in Japan 

HIROSHIMA CASTLE, JAPAN 

Originally built at the turn of the 16th century by 

the powerful lord Mari Terumoto, Hiroshima Castle 

was once a hugely significant seat of power in Japan. 

It managed to avoid the demolition that other Japanese 

castles faced during the Meiji Restoration, but like the 

rest of Hiroshima, was destroyed by the eponymous 

bombing in 1945. The castle has since been rebuilt, 

and today stands as a stunning replica of the original, 

in traditional Japanese style and surrounded by 

colourful trees. It also houses a museum of Hiroshima’s 

pre-WWII history. 

Experience the beauty of Hiroshima Castle 

during a Far Eastern Horizons journey in Asia. 

PHOTOS: © ALAMY 


MALBORK CASTLE, POLAND 

Sitting on the banks of the Nogat River is the 

impressive red-bricked fortress of Malbork Castle. 

The second largest castle in the world measured by 

land area, Malbork is a pristine example of a toweirng 

medieval fortress, unpassable by enemies attempting 

to invade it over the centuries. Construction began 

in the 13th Century by the Teutonic Knights – a 

German Catholic religious order of crusaders – and 

the castle remained their headquarters for almost 

150 years. Today it houses a castle museum with an 

array of informative resources and exhibitions and 

visitors come from far and wide to marvel and take 

photographs of the castle and its exquisite reflection 

in the Nogat River. 

Guests on the Baltic Jewels & the Midnight Sun 

trip can visit Malbork Castle for a guided tour. 



GARDENING 


top left: A frosty 

landscape view on 

a winter morning; 

Chimonanthus 

flowers; Paul 

Hervey-Brookes is 

an award-winning 

garden designer; 

snow-covered 

gardening tools 

WINTER wonderland 

Get your garden ready for the year ahead with award-winning 

garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes 

Once the 

dazzling 

flowers of 

summer 

and the rich colours 

of autumn have 

faded, it is easy to 

think the garden 

sleeps in a blanket 

of mist until March. 

But, that is certainly 

not the case and 

there are plenty of 

ways to keep outdoor interest 

alive during the lean months. 

First things first, enjoying 

our outdoor spaces in winter 

takes a little more planning but 

there is nothing like sitting by 

a fire – under a thick blanket 

with a mug of something hot – 

watching the silhouettes of trees 

and shrubs come to life in a 

way which is impossible at any 

other time of year. In winter, we 

are more aware of the magical 

silence of the garden and 

therefore appreciate birdsong 

and other sounds more fully. 

Extending our desire to 

be in the garden during these 

seemingly long months is the 

trick. It is an ideal time to take 

stock, look at the bare bones 

of the garden and think about 

projects – new beds, enlarging 

existing planting or making 

vegetable areas as an example. 

There are also a number of 

winter flowering plants that 

combine simple elegant flowers 

and heady scents which will 

draw you outside. 

For me, there is nothing 

like the winter honeysuckle, 

Lonicera ‘Winter Beauty’, a selfsupporting 

woody shrub form 

of honeysuckle which came to 

us from China in the mid-18th 

century. Its miniature creamy 

white flowers pack quite a 

punch fragrance-wise. It can 

reach up to 1.6m so is an ideal 

shrub to place at the back of 

the border, and somehow takes 

us by surprise every winter. A 

single small stem cut for a vase 

and brought into a warm room 

can fill the space with its rich 

‘of summer’ scents, with the 

flowers lasting up to two 

weeks in water. 

I like to couple this with 

winter flowering box, as both 

can be grown in a border or in 

large pots. Winter box, Sarcocca 

Hookeriana, comes from the 

mighty Himalayas, so at least 

we know it is hardy! Its narrow 

glossy foliage is evergreen, 

making it a very useful garden 

plant, but in December and 


January it really comes into 

its own, covered in hundreds 

of jewel-like white highly 

fragrant flowers. It makes 

a wonderful potted specimen 

placed near the porch. 

If you have a little more 

space then Chimonanthus, 

the winter sweet, is a sure 

winner, a large lax shrub 

which doesn’t mind being cut 

for flowering stems to bring 

indoors. Chimonanthus was 

first cultivated but the Song 

Dynasty (960-1279) in China, 

where it was used to dress the 

hair of courtiers due to the fact 

it flowered over the traditional 

Chinese New Year period. It 

was also dried and used to 

scent clothes in cupboards. In 

fact, it is said that a piece of the 

plant fell from a clothes chest 

being transported from China 

to Japan and this is how, in 

the 1600s, the plant found its 

way to Japan. By 1699 it had 

become popular enough to be 

given to the Earl of Coventry, 

and so it reached mainstream 

European horticulture. 

WINTER TASKS 

If you fancy being a little more 

hands on, there are a few useful 

jobs worth doing at this time 

of year. Don’t let leaf litter go 

to waste, collect it now and 

store it in a pile if space allows 

or in bags without restricted 

airflow to mulch down for 

use next year. 

Once the leaves have fallen 

it means the sap inside the 

branches of wood trees and 

shrubs has stopped flowing. 

Essentially this dormant period 

is an ideal time to carry out 

the pruning of larger trees, and 

shrubs to bring them back into 

shape. If you have fruit trees, 

such as apples, pears and plums, 

now is an ideal time to open 

the canopy by removing twiggy 

growth which will allow air to 

circulate and therefore reduce 

the chances of fungus and pest 

issues next year. 

Traditionally, it is also a good 

time to dig the soil in vegetable 

gardens and raised vegetable 

beds to allow the frost in to 

break down the soil and kill any 

surface weed seedlings. I am in 

two minds about this technique. 

If you are making new vegetable 

beds then I would recommend 

it but, if the beds are in use and 

you don’t have an issue with 

weeds, then I would much rather 

sow a green manure to cover the 

soil, for example mustard, and 

stop the chances of wind and 

rain causing the soil to erode. 

Whatever you do, do give 

yourself a little time to just 

stop and spend a few minutes 

surrounded by nature in the 

garden, appreciating the changes 

in light and the small wonders 

that the season has to offer. 

WINTER VISTAS 

For me, winter gardens are all about large 

landscapes and breathtaking views. If you live near 

one of these beautiful places why not take a stroll 

to blow away the cobwebs. 

STOWE PARK, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 

Created by a multitude of famous gardeners, 

architects and artists, Stowe Park is a prime 

example of gardening on a grand scale, featuring 

landscaped splendour and formal gardens. 

nationaltrust.org.uk 

PETWORTH PARK, SUSSEX 

Landscaped by famed garden designer 

Capability Brown, the sweeping views and 

ornamental lake provide the perfect backdrop to 

the impressive 17th-century country house. 

nationaltrust.org.uk 

RICHMOND PARK, LONDON 

One of London’s eight Royal Parks, this area 

was once used for deer hunting by Charles I. 

Today, it is a nature reserve that is home to 

ancient trees and protected wildlife. 

royalparks.org.uk 



Linen shirt 

Pure, £90 

FASHION 

and for men... 

A flash of tartan is a smart 

addition to a neutral outfit 

Sustainable padded coat 

Monsoon at Very, £125 

Wellington boots 

Regatta, £40 

Cashmere polo neck 

F & F Clothing, £79 

For women... 

Mix luxurious knitwear with 

softer prints for a lighter look 

Messenger bag 

Accessorize, £39 

WinterChic 

Beat the chill in style with a range of 

timeless winter classics that will 

complement your existing wardrobe 

Reversible coat and knitwear 

(from a selection 

at Celtic & Co.) 

Cashmere hoodie 

Figleaves, £160 

Printed scaft 

Oliver Bonas, £25 

Adventurer hat 

National Trust, £35 

Glasses case 

Getting Personal, £59.99 

Padded shirt 

Joe Browns, £80 

Duffle coat 


at Celtic & Co.) 

Cashmere beanie hat 

M&S Autograph, £35 

Leather gloves 

Accessorize, £22 

Khaki chinos 

FatFace, £45 

Gold-plated hoops 

Oliver Bonas, £42 

Padded gilet 

Burton, £35 

Faux shearling bag 

Dune, £70 

Ray Ban sunglasses 

Vision Express, £125 

Boots 

Dune, £120 

Quilted jacket 

Dilli Grey, £139 

Tartan cape 

Joules, £129 

Knitwear 


at Joe Browns) 

Denim joggers 

White Stuff, 

£49.95 

Corduroy trousers 

Phoebe Grace, £175 

High top trainers 

M&S, £49.50 

Chelsea boots 

Hunter x National Trust, £95

TRAVEL 

This page: 

Hermaness 

National Nature 

Reserve, a clifftop 

setting and a 

refuge to seabirds 

Opposite: 

An old anchor 

makes a good spot 

for a seat 

Island 

Exploration 

Scottish television producer Fi Cotter Craig 

shares her memories of an enlightening trip 

to Shetland and Orkney 


If you haven’t ever seen the 

midnight sun, what have 

you been doing every July 

and August? It’s the visual 

equivalent of being in St. Paul’s 

Cathedral with the best choir in the 

world performing Bach’s Mass in 

B Minor, or at La Scala watching 

multiple Pavarottis out-tenoring 

each other belting out Puccini’s 

Greatest Hits. Really, it’s that good. 

Any Viking cruise brings 

anticipation and excitement even 

before you’ve set foot on board, but 

there was one destination on our 

Into the Midnight Sun itinerary I 

wasn’t entirely sure about: Shetland. 

In general, I love an island, but 

thanks to two emotionally scarring 

childhood experiences, I’ve never 

really had any warm feelings 

towards those forbidding and 

far-flung stepping stones in the seas 

between Scotland and Norway. 

In the 1960s there was no global 

warming, and therefore no summer 

in Scotland. Winter clothes were 

mandatory all year round and until 

I could choose my own clothes I 

was trapped inside itchy-scratchy 

Shetland sweaters. The itchy 

scratching was bad enough, but 

there was a far, far worse design 

flaw – the size of the neck opening. 

Always way too small. Putting 

them on was a struggle, but taking 

them off was torture, and I’m as 

sure as I can be that my ears are 



TRAVEL 


top left: Kirkwall’s 

St. Magnus, 

Britain’s northerly 

cathedral; wild 

Shetland ponies; 

an ancient burial 

stone; the Ring of 

Brodgar, majestic 

standing stones 


above: Scalloway 

town and its 

picturesque 

harbour; Fi’s 

childhood pony, 

Hamish, is on 

the far right 

about two inches further up my 

head than they would have been 

without that daily tug of war. 

Then there was Hamish. He was 

a birthday present, a pony from the 

Shetland Islands, I was three, what 

could be more perfect? 

Almost anything actually. 

Hamish had more tricks 

up his sleeve for dealing 

with under fives than 

a whole battalion of 

Norland Nannies. He was also 

more determined to do things his 

way than even Frank Sinatra. We 

never had a battle he didn’t win, 

these dual formative experiences 

taught me that Shetland should be 

treated with caution. 

I couldn’t have been more 

wrong. Shetland is magnificent. 

It’s architecturally and emotionally 

strong, no frills, muscular and 

enduring – the perfect creation 

of form and function for a 

challenging environment. Suddenly 

the sweaters and Hamish’s 

Shetland is magnificent – the perfect 

creation of form and function for a 

challenging environment 

intransigence began to make sense. 

The treeless landscape is sparse and 

spectacular, soaring cliffs, hundreds, 

possibly thousands of fabulous 

seabirds swirling through Spitfire 

skies, rising and falling on Atlantic 

thermals, houses huddling into the 

landscape and mile after mile of 

fields dotted with the providers of 

those childhood sweaters. So far so 

Shetland, but the music however, 

was a complete revelation. Turns 

out that Lerwick is basically the 

Nashville of Scottish fiddle music; 

on the High Street in Lerwick, a 

couple of teenagers in 

jeans and t-shirts, not 

busking, but competing 

with each other for fun – 

a joyous pair of Duelling 

Fiddles, toe-tapping 

doesn’t do them justice. Everywhere 

modern, melodic music with an 

ancient soul drifted out of shops, 

bars, pubs, open windows and 

created an unforgettable soundtrack 

to my Shetland experience. 

I may have finally made friends 

with Shetland, but with Orkney, 

it was love at first sight. The 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; CATHERINE COLLINS 

polar opposite of its Presbyterian 

northern cousin, Orkney is a 

low-lying riot of wild flowers, wide 

open spaces and greenery. So lushly, 

verdantly green, the landscape 

is enhanced by the soft rolling 

curves of gentle hills. In July the 

fields were filled with softly waving 

ancient grains, bere barley should 

you be interested, which has been 

grown there since the original 

Vikings first paid a visit. 

I’m not sure that I have 

ever been more aware of being 

surrounded by thousands of years 

of history than I was during my 

brief time in Orkney. Within a few 

miles of each other are Skara Brae 

(a perfectly preserved Neolithic 

settlement built 5,000 years ago), 

the scuttled WWI German High 

Seas Fleet rusting below the waters 

of Scapa Flow, the four WWII 

causeways known as the Churchill 

Barriers, and an exquisite chapel 

built by Italian prisoners of war. 

Meanwhile, the standing stones 

of the Ring of Brodgar made me 

stop in my tracks and weep at their 

simplicity and allmighty presence. 

There’s something unique 

about Orkney itself that helps 

you sense the humans who made 

and lived all this history – it’s not 

just a collection of old or even 

ancient things, everything carried 

something of its creators, tens, 

hundreds or thousands of years 

in a future they couldn’t possibly 

begin to imagine. 

And there’s more, at the very 

heart of Kirkwall, there is the 

mighty St. Magnus, Britain’s most 

northerly cathedral. Whatever your 

relationship with God please pay 

a visit. Building began in 1137 

and finished 300 years later. It is 

as humbling now as it must have 

been then. I got the sense that 

while Orkney is rightly proud 

of its history, it has its eyes very 

much on the future, and perhaps 

that self-reliance is the secret of 

its continuing evolution. Today, it 

leads the UK’s drive to a carbonfree 

future, and is developing 

clean energy technology that will 

harness the power of the wind and 

the surrounding seas. 

A 15-day 2022 British Isles 

Explorer trip from London to 

Bergen starts from £4,840pp. 



CULTURE 

Above: Gallery 

view of ‘Tracey 

Emin/Edvard 

Munch: The 

Loneliness of 

the Soul’, at the 

Royal Academy 

of Arts, London 

© David Parry 

The LONELINESS 

of the SOUL 

We find out more about the Royal Academy exhibition 

showcasing the work of contemporary British artist, Tracey Emin, 

alongside pieces by the Norwegian expressionist, Edvard Munch 

EDITH DEVANEY 

Contemporary Curator at 

the Royal Academy of Arts, 

Edith has originated and 

co-curated many headline 

exhibitions. In her capacity as 

Head of Summer Exhibition 

at the Royal Academy of Arts, 

she has worked with many 

international contemporary 

artists on special projects. 

KARI J. BRANDTZÆG 

Curator at MUNCH, the 

museum dedicated to Edvard 

Munch’s work, Kari has also 

worked as an art historian and 

curator at several international 

art institutions. As an art 

critic she contributed articles 

to publications at home and 

abroad, and was a doctoral 

fellow at the Freie Universität 

Berlin, the Norwegian Institute 

in St.Petersburg and the 

University of Oslo. 

We go behind the 

scenes with cocurators 

Kari 

Brandtzæg, of the 

MUNCH in Oslo, Norway, and 

Edith Devaney, from the Royal 

Academy of Arts, to find out more 

about the new exhibition. 

How did the idea for the 

exhibition come about? 

Kari: When I started working 

at the MUNCH five years ago I 

knew my dream project would 

be a Tracey Emin exhibition. In 

1997, I had been completely blown 

away by Emin’s solo exhibition 

‘I Need Art Like I Need God’ and 

had spent many hours just looking 

and reading her texts on blankets, 

furniture and neons. In a strange 

way there was something very 

familiar about Tracey’s art, with the 

references to a Nordic melancholy, 

trolls, expressionism and Edvard 

Munch. They both create art from 

memories – from past experiences, 

and from loss, desire and loneliness. 

How are the works displayed? 

Edith: The exhibition is arranged 

across three galleries and it 

comprises, roughly, one third 

Munch works, both paintings and 

watercolours, and two thirds Emin 

works, which are mainly paintings, 

along with two neon works and 

five sculptures. Rather than works 

by Munch and Emin being paired, 

there is more of an organic fluidity 

between the two artists’ works, 

with the relationship between their 

works building as the show unfolds. 

How did Emin go about 

choosing the pieces to display 

alongside her own work? 

Kari: At the time of his death in 

January 1944, Munch had already 

bequeathed all the art in his 

possession to the City of Oslo. This 

was the foundation of the Munch 

Museet which opened in 1963. 

For Tracey, this exhibition was an 

opportunity to satisfy a long-held 

wish to peruse Munch’s paintings, 

works on paper and private objects. 

Do you think Munch would be 

experimenting with new media 

if he was alive today? 

Kari: Yes, I think Munch 

would have experimented. He 

bought his first Kodak camera 

in 1902, and loved to play with 

photography and film. He didn’t 

believe in photography as an 

artistic expression but he loved to 

photograph himself and today he is 

seen as the inventer of the selfie! 

How does the show explore 

themes of grief, loss and longing? 

Edith: There can be no doubt that 

the artists, Emin and Munch, 

were either describing or reliving 

a personal experience of grief or 

loss; or had a complete empathy 

of understanding of being in the 

grip of such overwhelming feelings. 

The psychological states which 

they describe are authentic and 

as a result, deeply engaging. 

Emin once said of Munch “I’ve 

been in love with this man 

since I was eighteen”. What do 

you think drew her to him? 

Kari: Tracey became aware of 

Munch when looking for a book 

about Egon Schiele. It was the 

emotional expressiveness of 

Munch’s art that struck her. I 

believe that gave her the courage 

to express difficult feelings often 

related to painful incidents from 

her youth in Margate. 

Munch’s work often 

highlighted his complex 

relationship with women, how 

did this inspire Emin’s work? 

Edith: On discovering Munch at 

an early age, Emin became a very 

keen student of his work and with 

the passage of time she has built a 

very comprehensive knowledge of 

his oeuvre, his life and his impulses. 

She has traced his depiction of 

women throughout his career and 

is aware that many of his portrayals 

of women are linked to his own 

experiences and chart his emotional 

responses. Losing his mother to 

illness when he was still a young 

child, then a few years later, a 

sister to whom he was particularly 

close, all find expression in his 

work, as do his series of doomed 

romantic relationships with 

women. Interestingly, Emin notes 

that Munch’s depictions of women 

are respectful, and although they 

are, at times, illustrating anguished 

emotions, they do so in a way that 

carefully navigates both judgment 

and voyeurism. As a female artist, 

Emin’s approach is different and 

her presence implicit in the subject 

of her works. But, like Munch she 

does not shy away from a deep 

interrogation of the female inner life. 

Are these two artists are linked 

by a sense of fearlessness? 

Edith: There is much in common 

between Emin and Munch and one 

of the most important similarities 

is their fearlessness or bravery. To 

display one’s own emotions, to 

describe the pain suffered as a result 

of an experience, is an unbelievably 

difficult and courageous thing to 

do. Both are true to themselves 

and have disregarded most passing 

artistic trends and norms of their 

time to present what is important 

to them. Emin both gives and 

reveals so much of herself in her 

work. To lay oneself bare like that 

takes a great deal of courage and 

is something which Munch would 

have applauded. 

How do you think Munch 

would have perceived this show? 

Kari: I think Munch would have 

been proud to know that he is still 

relevant and inspires artists all over 

the world, especially female artists 

like Tracey Emin. It’s about our 

modern soul, how we are alone 

from cradle to grave, and about our 

desires and sorrows along the way. 

The show runs from 7th December 

2020 until 28th February 2021, at the 

Royal Academy of Arts, London, and is 

organised in partnership with MUNCH, 

Oslo. www.royalacademy.org.uk 

Above: Tracey 

Emin, I whisper 

to my past do 

I have another 

choice, 2013, on 

display at the 

Royal Academy 

of Arts, London. 

© Tracey Emin. 

All rights reserved, 

DACS 2020. Photo: 

© David Parry. 

Left: Tracey Emin 

in front of This is 

life without you – 

You made me Feel 

Like This, 2018, 

on display at the 

Royal Academy 

of Arts, London. 

Loan courtesy of 

Collection Majudia 

© Tracey Emin. 

All rights reserved, 

DACS 2020. Photo: 

© David Parry. 


WINTER 20/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 51

CITY GUIDE 

Bergen 

Discover the colourful settlement of the ancient 

Norwegian city of Bergen, framed by an 

enchanting mountainous landscape 

The charming city of 

Bergen looks out 

onto the tumbling 

archipelagos of land 

that fall away into the 

North Sea, making it the ultimate 

stepping-stone from which to 

discover the icy fjords and the 

Arctic beyond. With its coloured 

houses casting a pristine reflection 

onto the calm waters of the North 

Sea as it meanders inland, and with 

a mystical mountainous backdrop, 

the second largest of Norway’s cities 

is a spectacle to behold in itself. 

Settled originally by the Vikings, 

the city went on to flourish and 

was once a centre of the Hanseatic 

League’s trading empire. For four 

centuries, merchants worked on the 

Bryggen wharf. Today the buildings 

that remain are part of a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site. 

Don’t miss 

• An exciting trip up the Fløibanen 

Funicular takes you high above the 

rooftops, up to Mt. Fløien. Here 

you will rewarded with panoramic 

views of Bryggen and the harbour 

and you will gain access to a 

network of hiking trails. 

• For history aficionados, the 

Hanseatic Museum provides 

a comprehensive insight into 

medieval life in Bergen when the 

Hanseatic League was the centre 

of life in the city. The museum is 

located in a beautiful building, 

once owned by a merchant. 

• A spectacular example of modern 

Norwegian architecture is Grieg 

Hall, designed and dedicated to 

the Bergen-born composer with 

a spectacular exterior that takes 

inspiration from the surrounding 

landscape and from some of his 

own compositions. 

• Bergen has a trio of beautiful old 

churches that serve as reminders of 

the city’s heritage and are uniquely 

Arctic in design: Domkirken, 

Bergen Cathedral, and Korskirken. 

• Bergenhus Fortress is one of 

the oldest and best-preserved of 

Norway’s castles, and harks back 

to the 13th century, when it 

served as a royal residence. Many 

of Bergen’s buildings date back 

to the 1240s, and one excavation 

has revealed structures from 

1100, remnants of the Viking 

Age. Discover the gardens, the 

neighbouring 13th century tour 

with splendid harbour views, 

and the spectacular 13th-century 

Håkon’s Hall – the largest surviving 

medieval secular building in 

Norway. It was once the banqueting 

hall of King Håkon IV, one of the 

most important kings in Norway’s 

history, and is now a museum and 

still in use for events. 


above: Bergen 

is famed for its 

colourful houses 

and mountainous 

scenery; Fløibanen 

funicular offers 

great views over 

the city of Bergen 

Fast Facts 

• The original name for Bergen 

was Bjørgvin, which dates back to 

when it was a Viking trading city. 

In Icelandic, the city is still given 

this old Viking title. 

• Bergen stood as Norway’s 

capital during the 13th Century 

after its setting meant it was 

the perfect location for trade, 

displacing Trondheim as the 

kingdom’s capital. 

• Bergen locals have developed 

their own regional dialect and it 

is one of the most difficult for 

foreigners and other Norwegians 

to tap into. Often described as 

‘throaty’, this version of Norwegian 

differs with a guttural ‘r’ sound 

and various colloquialisms. 

• Today the city has a population 

of around 283,000, many of 

whom are students who attend 

the various universities dotted 

around the city. 


Insider Tips 

ESCAPE TO THE WILD 

Head out of the city centre 

to Hardangerfjord, located 

near Bergen and known for 

its stunning Vøringsfossen 

waterfall and the 78-square 

mile Folgefonna glacier, 

the third largest on 

Norway’s mainland. 

STREET ART 

Although Bergen is 

fantastically walkable, try 

renting a city bike or electric 

scooter and take in the city’s 

thriving art scene. Works by 

Bergen’s answer to Banksy, 

Dolk, can be spotted if you 

keep your eyes peeled. 

HERITAGE HOTSPOT 

Troldhaugen was the home 

of Nina and Edvard Grieg 

for 22 years, and provides 

a cultural narrative to the 

history of Bergen. The villa 

on the outskirts of Bergen is 

where Grieg composed some 

of his famous works. 

FOOD FOR THOUGHT 

The outdoor Fish Market in 

the middle of the city is a 

timeless place where market 

traders show off their 

produce. Food stalls offer 

street food, and a glass 

of aquavit (Scandinavian 

spirit) is a delicious treat. 



DISCOVERY 

SÁMI: A TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE 

The Sámi are an indigenous people inhabiting 

Sápmi, which encompasses northern parts of 

Finland, Sweden, Norway and the Kola Peninsula 

of Russia. Descended from nomadic groups that 

once roamed northern Scandinavia, the Sámi 

are known for their close relationship with the 

natural world, in which reindeer herding, fishing 

and farming are all important traditional ways 

of life. Today, Sámi parliaments protect and 

promote the cultural autonomy and political 

interests of the Sámi at an international level. 


above: Jørn 

Henriksen; the 

Arctic landscape; 

a polar bear with 

her three cubs 

spotted by Jørn 

at Wilhelmøya in 

Svalbard; Jørn’s 

great grandfather, 

Gustav Johannes, 

is the little boy 

in the upper left, 

alongside a group 

of Dutch tourists 

in Gibostad, North 

Norway, in 1893 

I’m Norwegian, born 

and bred in the city of 

TromsØ. Whilst many 

people consider the 

Arctic a romantic area – full of 

mysticism, legends and struggles 

in harsh conditions, expressed 

by phenomena like the Northern 

Lights, Santa Claus and stories 

about explorers attempting to 

reach an extremity – I call the 

Arctic home. It is the foundation 

both for my work and for my 

family. I have previously headed 

many expeditions across the 

My ARCTIC 

Jørn Henriksen, Director of Expedition Operations 

at Viking Expeditions, discusses his relationship with 

the Arctic – the place he calls ‘home’ 

Arctic throughout my career, and 

it is a real privilege to be part of 

the Viking Expeditions team. 

My family is embedded in 

the Arctic, and via a branch on 

my fathers side, rooted in the 

indigenous Sámi people. The Sámi 

populate Fenno-Scandinavia (the 

northern part of Norway, Finland 

and Sweden) and they are perhaps 

best known for being reindeer 

herders. My great grandfather was 

Sámi, but during his lifetime his 

community was under an immense, 

state-driven pressure to assimilate 

and become ‘Norwegian’. As a 

result, he was given the name 

Henriksen instead of taking the 

family name of Omma. 

This part of my family history 

was ‘watered out’ and our Sámi 

identity became more distant 

with each passing generation. 

However, I’m immensely proud of 

my ancestors – they were Arctic 

experts, living in harmony with 

nature and exercising their ancient 

traditions, whilst the rest of the 

world was speeding into 

the Industrial Revolution. 

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK 

If there is one thing that stands 

out for me about the Arctic, it must 

be the midnight sun and the endless 

days of summer, when I can wander 

into nature without thinking of it 

getting dark. I also love the pitchblack 

mid-winter days when the sun 

is below the horizon, even at noon, 

and the aurora borealis dance across 

the sky in the evening. 

These seasonal variations really 

dictate how I spend my spare time. 

They also make it a fantastic place 

to visit, both in summer and winter. 

I love the treeless tundra, featuring 

colourful high-alpine flora – a place 

that is so robust, yet subtle and 

delicate at the same time. 

I have been so lucky to spend 

parts of my professional life as an 

expedition leader in what I call 

‘The High Arctic’ – areas between 

74° and 81° North. The archipelago 

of Svalbard and the north-eastern 

part of Greenland have really been 

etched into my mind. As opposed 

to the Arctic part of the Norwegian 

mainland, these are areas where 

polar bears, muskox, polar wolves, 

arctic fox and the all-white version 

of peregrine falcon roam. 

These are extreme places where 

travelling in nature requires 

particular skills, places where you 

quickly learn that, if you attempt to 

defy nature, you may put your life 

in danger. For many inhabitants of 

the Arctic, being in the wilderness 

is second nature and nothing to talk 

about. However, I believe that my 

appreciation of the fact that I come 

from a place that is inhospitable 

to many is something I have been 

able to harness in my choice of 

profession. Above all, I love seeing 

visitors mesmerised by the immense 

beauty of the Arctic. 



ITINERARY 

Antarctic frontier 

This adventure takes you to the Antarctic peninsula, where 

towering glaciers and immense icebergs provide the backdrop 

for a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife viewing opportunity 

Above: The 

mighty mountains 

of Antarctica 

provide the 

perfect backdrop 

for a polar sunset 

DAY 1 / BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA 

Arriving into the Argentinian capital, you’ll check 

into your hotel and meet your fellow guests at an 

expedition briefing. If time permits, you may want to 

explore the city’s culture – catch live tango performed 

in the city’s cobbled backstreets, or relax with a glass of 

Argentinian red wine. 

DAY 2 / USHUAIA, ARGENTINA 

Departing via Argentina’s southernmost tip and the 

world’s southernmost city, you’ll embark and get a feel 

for your expedition team. As you leave, take in the 

views of the sub-Antarctic forests as and snow-capped 

mountains as they fade from view. 

DAY 3 / CRUISE DRAKE PASSAGE 

Named after the discoverer Sir Francis Drake, this 

route takes you into the Antarctic Convergence, with 

your vessel hurtling through the freezing gin clear 

waters. It’s here you might spot your first iceberg up 

close. Explore the ship and take advantage of the 

many onboard dining options. 

DAY 4-10 / EXPLORE ANTARCTICA 

Explore the ‘Last Continent’ and soak up the majestic 

beauty of this isolated corner of the globe. Keep an 

eye out for whales in their natural habitat, catch sleepy 

seals and playful penguins on exposed land and rocky 

beaches, and marvel at the wonders of nature from 

the comforts of the ship. 

DAY 11 / CRUISE DRAKE PASSAGE 

Study Antarctica further with onboard lectures and 

presentations from biologists and scientists who have 

partnered up with Viking, enjoy an array of cuisines, 

or relax in The Nordic Spa. 

DAY 12 / SCENIC CRUISING: CAPE HORN 

Sail to the legendary Cape Horn, the headland of 

Chile’s Tierra del Fuego archipelago straddling the 

Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. An opportunity to get 

your camera out, the magnificent cape is a milestone 

reserved for experienced sailors who have succeeded 

in rounding it. 

DAY 13 / USHUAIA, ARGENTINA 

Heading back to the ‘end of the earth’ suitably marks 

the end of your cruise as you dock in Ushaia. Depart 

by charter flight to Buenos Aires and continue your 

journey home or explore more with a post-cruise 

land extension package. 

The 13-day 2022 Antarctic Explorer cruise starts 

from £12,995pp. 


56 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2020/21

Pre-book online 

Until 28 February 2021 

Friends of the RA go free 

Supported by 

Exhibition organised by MUNCH, Oslo, Norway in partnership with the Royal Academy of Arts. 

Tracey Emin, Every part of me Kept Loving You, 2018 (detail). Acrylic on canvas, 205.7 x 279.5 cm. Private collection, UK © Tracey Emin. All rights reserved, DACS 2020. 

Edvard Munch, Crouching Nude, 1917–1919 (detail). Oil on canvas, 70 x 90 cm. Munchmuseet.

OCEANS 

The 

ARCTIC OCEAN 

The coldest and northernmost of the world’s seas, 

the Arctic Ocean enchants with majestic icebergs 

and mystical frozen waters 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; GETTY 

The planet’s northernmost 

body of water, the Arctic 

Ocean is characterised 

by floating icebergs, 

otherworldly icy landscapes and 

freezing temperatures. A seemingly 

stark and inhospitable part of the 

world, this magical ocean is home 

to an array of wildlife and is of 

fundamental importance to the 

rest of the planet. This somewhat 

bleak and remote region plays a 

crucial role in keeping the world’s 

climate in balance, controlling the 

temperature and weather systems 

across the world. 

The Arctic consists mainly of the 

Arctic Ocean, as well as portions 

of land belonging to Canada, 

Greenland, Russia, Norway, 

Sweden, Finland, Iceland and the 

US. The North Pole is right at its 

heart, permanently covered in sea 

ice and located 430 miles north of 

the northern tip of Greenland. 

THE HISTORY 

An enduring fascination with the 

Arctic has driven explorers to the 

North Pole for decades, with man 

attempting to take on nature and 

reach the top of the world, risking 

life and limb in doing so. Records 

suggest that the Arctic Ocean was 

first explored around 325BC, when 

the ancient Greek sailor Pytheas 

reached a frozen sea while trying to 

find the source of tin metal. 

Ever since, stories have regaled of 

pioneers, adventurers and explorers 

attempting to reach polar regions, 

with European and American 

explorers particularly engaged in 

the 19th and 20th centuries. Some 

intrepid explorers – John Cabot, 

Henry Hudson and James Cook to 

name a few – attempted to navigate 

the frozen tundra in search of the 

Northwest Passage, connecting the 

Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, whilst 

Wally Herbert became the first 

confirmed person to walk to the 

Pole as part of an incredible 

3,800-mile crossing. 

THE POPULATION 

Despite its freezing and barren 

landscape, the Arctic is home to 

around four million people, 

including indigenous groups with 

rich cultures that have thrived there 

for nearly 30,000 years. These 

include Inuit of North America, the 

Sami of Northern Europe and the 

Yakuts of Siberia who have long 

inhabited this part of the world and 

successfully so. 

Visitors to the Arctic have the 

opportunity to experience life 

in remote communities based 

around historic Viking and Inuit 

settlements. There are many 

cultural activities to discover, such 

as watching locals performing 

throat singing – a traditional type 

of music performed amongst the 

Inuit communities – and a wide 

range of Indigenous art on offer at 

local galleries. 

THE WILDLIFE 

Arctic wildlife has evolved over 

thousands of years to cope with the 

extreme polar temperatures. Diving 

down into the thick sea ice, much 

of the Arctic Ocean is pitch black, 

closed off from sunlight by ice 

cover, but photographers diving 

further with equipment and lights 

are able to expose the reality of 

wildlife in the Arctic, which is 

rich and varied. 

At the bottom of the food 

chain in the dark Arctic depths 

lurks plankton – a food group 

that makes up the base of the 

Opposite: 

Spotting polar 

bears is one 

of the highlights 

of a trip to 

the Arctic 



OCEANS 

Clockwise, from top left: An aerial 

view of icebergs in Greenland; a 

traditional building in Barentsburg, 

Svalbard, Greenland; reindeer herding 

is a way of life for many communities; 

seals are a common sight in Arctic 

waters; a Humpback whale tail fin 

in the Arctic Ocean; a traditional 

summer house of the Yakuts; the 

Arctic fox is hidden amongst the 

snowy landscape; wooden drinking 

cups crafted by Sámi artisans in 

northern Scandinavia 

Arctic food chain and consists of 

organisms like algae and bacteria, 

which in turn feeds creatures as 

large as bowhead whales. 

The larger creatures who have 

evolved to live in these remote 

climes include polar bears – with 

paddle-like paws and thick white 

fur that disguises them against a 

snowy backdrop. Walruses too can 

be found here, with large tusks 

that help propel their vast bodies 

along the ice. Other creatures you 

might find roaming the landscape 

include Arctic foxes, seals, orcas 

and reindeer, while the narwhal 

is one fascinating species found 

only in the northern hemisphere, 

often referred to as the ‘unicorn of 

the sea’ because of its straight tusk 

projecting from its head that can 

grow to over 3 metres in length. 

CLIMATE WARMING 

Though it is the smallest of the 

world’s oceans, spanning a meagre 

6.1 million square miles, the Arctic 

Ocean is one of the most significant 

areas on our planet. The ice of the 

Arctic contains around 10 percent 

of the world’s fresh water, and it’s 

the white frozen land mass reflected 

under sunlight that helps keep the 

region cool, and in turn the seasons 

and weather systems across the 

world. The waters are warming 

faster than anywhere else on Earth, 

and scientists are constantly looking 

to make sense of why this is, and 

how warming sea temperatures will 

change the Arctic Ocean waters 

and the world. 

Studies have predicted all sorts 

of outcomes, from colder and 

more extreme winters to one 2016 

study even predicting that ships 

would be able to sail through open 

water to the North Pole by 2040. 

The loss of ice and changes in 

weather caused by climate change 

are raising new challenges for 

wildlife – forcing animals that rely 

on ice, like polar bears and seals, to 

traverse the landscape in search of 

food. Climate change in the Arctic 

also raises important questions for 

those who live there, with local 

populations seeking new ways 

of living in harmony with their 

changing environment. 

Above: Orca 

whales patrol 

the Arctic waters 

hunting for food 



DISCOVERY 

Wine list 

Wine expert Bartholomew Broadbent recalls some early travel 

adventures, and his discovery of the wine regions flanking the Danube 

At the age of seven I was 

left alone with my sister, 

Emma, three years my 

elder, in Budapest, for 

an entire day – from before dawn 

until after dusk. My parents’ 

destination was, back 

then, a four-hour drive 

each way at the best of 

times. So why would 

parents abandon their 

pre-pubescent children 

early in the morning, leaving them 

to fend for themselves, until long 

after dinner? And what did we do 

with ourselves all day? 

We were staying in a hotel 

across the street from the Danube. 

Throwing stones in the river 

provided entertainment for a while, 

but the land-locked country, which 

did not allow its citizens to travel 

beyond borders at that time, had 

to provide some other form of 

As great a capital as Budapest is, with 

its spectacular architecture and history, 

Hungary is better known for its wines 

water-based experience beyond 

the banks of the Danube. We were 

fortunate that the hotel was next to 

a massive water park. It had a saltfilled 

pool in which you could float 

as if in the Dead Sea, a bubbling 

warm pool like hot springs, and a 

regular swimming pool and shallow 

lounging pool. And it had a lot 

of Hungarians who didn’t speak a 

word of English. I spent the better 

part of the day enjoying splashing 

around in these pools. 

Dinner was another 

memory of my adventures 

in Budapest. My sister and 

I dined alone in the very 

posh and romantic hotel 

restaurant. We had goulash, the 

traditional Hungarian dish, heavily 

meaty and usually spiced with 

paprika, followed by wonderful 

desserts including delicious 

palacsinta, krémes and dobos torta. 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY 

We were serenaded by musicians, 

a man with a violin who probably 

didn’t expect a tip from us, and 

his accompanists. Nobody spoke 

any English. 

If my parents had never returned 

from their day-long excursion to 

the Tokaji wine district, perhaps 

I would be speaking Hungarian 

today! Tokaji was the reason for 

their absence, and I have grown 

to understand their reasons for 

leaving. Thinking we’d be bored 

by the long journey there, they 

deserted us to go on a pilgrimage 

to discover the region known for 

making one of the most legendary 

wines in the world. 

As great a capital as Budapest is, 

with its spectacular architecture and 

history, Hungary is better known 

for its excellent array of wines. For 

those of you my age, or senior, you 

will doubtless remember the very 

successful Hungarian wine called 

Bull’s Blood or Egri Bikavér. 

It got a bad name because it 

became so commercially successful 

but, actually, red wines from 

Hungary can be very fine indeed. 

It produces wonderful dry white 

wines too, especially from the 

Furmint grape. Although it is only 

the famous dessert wine, Tokaji, 

made from the Aszú grape, which 

could possibly entice a couple to 

risk the abandonment of their 

children to the communist regime. 

Tokaji produces one of the 

most exquisite sweet wines in the 

world, to rival the very greatest 

Trockenbeerenauslese wines from 

Germany and the best Sauternes 

from Bordeaux. These Tokaji wines 

vary in sweetness levels, resulting 

from shrivelled grapes, the ultimate 

being the Essencia which is made 

from Aszú grapes which can only 

be described as being beyond 

raisins in ripeness. They are hung 

and very slowly allowed to drip any 

remaining juices. 

The Hungarian wine regions 

await discovery and are oft 

Above: The 

aerial skyline 

view of Budapest 

at sunrise, with 

Szechenyi Chain 

Bridge, Matthias 

Church and the 

Parliament 

of Hungary 



DISCOVERY 

overshadowed by their European 

neighbours, but they are by no 

means the only wine regions to 

be discovered floating down the 

Danube. The Danube is the second 

longest river in Europe. It flows out 

into the Black Sea after springing 

to life west of Munich in Germany, 

flowing lazily eastward through 

nine other countries; Austria, 

Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, 

Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova and 

Ukraine, all of which are known 

for their winemaking, and many 

of which have vineyards based on 

the riverbanks. 

Little did I know at the age of 

seven that I would be writing fifty 

years later about my experiences 

on the Danube for Viking’s Explore 

More magazine and hosting Wine 

Wednesdays, the popular Viking.TV 

series, in which we feature the 

lovely wines of Erich Machherndl 

in Wachau, in our third episode. 

And perhaps this 

childhood experience 

the start of my interest 

in this country and its 

production. Austria’s 

Wachau can claim the 

crown, along with Tokaji, as the 

other best-known wine region 

within all the wine producing 

countries through which the 

Danube flows. Sadly it would be 

impossible, in a short article, to 

articulate the incredible diversity 

of the wines grown along the great 

river Danube, and in the countries 

through which it meanders. They 

The Hungarian wine regions await 

discovery and are oft overshadowed by 

their European neighbours 

are mostly unknown regions, even 

within the wine trade, but await 

discovery for anyone with a wine 

interest and fortunate enough to 

take a cruise along the river. 

In February of 2021, my sister, 

Lady Emma Arbuthnot, Chief 

Magistrate Judge of England and 

Wales, is being elevated to the 

High Court. I wonder what she 

would say to parents who 

abandoned their children 

for a day, leaving them 

alone, in a hostile foreign 

country? No doubt she’d 

be most disapproving. 

But one glass of Tokaji Aszú 

Essencia would make any great 

wine-lover more understanding of 

my parents’ decision back then. It 

was a pilgrimage of sorts. 

Clockwise, 

from top right: 

Hungary’s 

expansive 

vineyards; 

Bartholomew 

Broadbent enjoys 

a Hungarian red; 

a bottle of Tokaji 

from the Tokaji 

wine district 

in Hungary; 

winding rows 

of vineyards in 

Wachau valley 



BOOK CLUB 

JOIN OUR 

BOOK CLUB 

Viking 

BOOK CLUB 

Join London-based bookshop Heywood Hill, whose experts 

curate the libraries on board Viking ships, as they 

recommend a variety of top non-fiction choices 

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club 

THE MAKING 

OF MODERN 

BRITAIN 

BY ANDREW 

MARR 

Pan Macmillan 

Those looking 

to absorb the 

history of Britain 

should carry 

Marr’s fantastic book with them 

as a handbook. Taking you 

through the eras, from the death 

of Queen Victoria that signalled 

the end of an empire, to the 

Second World War, Marr weaves 

cultural and sociological anecdotes 

with hard-hitting historical facts. 

Far from being intimidating, the 

book is written in an approachable 

way and provides an accessible 

deconstruction of English history. 

Based on the memorable BBC 

documentary series of the same 

name, the book contains a huge 

amount of wide-ranging research, 

so you’re bound to pick up a new 

understanding of historical events, 

along with some fabulously fun 

facts along the way. 

BEETHOVEN: 

A LIFE IN 

NINE PIECES 

BY LAURA 

TUNBRIDGE 

Penguin Books 

An enlightening 

and engaging 

biography of 

German-born 

Ludwig van 

Beethoven, published to coincide 

with the 250th-year anniversary 

of his birth. Tunbridge eloquently 

presents the musician’s life through 

nine different compositions – each 

unearthing stories, anecdotes and 

aspects of Beethoven’s life and 

character, as well as the places 

where he lived. Tunbridge’s picks 

span all phases of Beethoven’s 

compositional career, from his 

early success in Vienna to the 

creation of the single-movement 

composition, Grosse Fuge. 

 

VIENNA. 

PORTRAIT 

OF A CITY 

BY CHRISTIAN 

BRANDSTATTER 

Taschen 

A beautiful 

testament to the 

Austrian capital’s 

illustrious history. 

What was once the beating heart 

of the Austro-Hungarian empire, 

now a thriving cosmopolitan city, 

Vienna has changed hands many 

times, and has always reflected 

the cultural climate of Europe 

along the way. This book is a 

collection of photography from 

the last 175 years, charting this 

evolution from imperial centre 

to modern metropolis. The 

photographs display everything 

from Vienna’s genteel coffee house 

culture to its sensational worldclass 

arts and music scene which 

produced the likes of Johann 

Strauss and Egon Schiele. A 

must-read for anyone with the 

city on their bucket-list. 

THE NORDIC 

COOKBOOK 

BY MAGNUS 

NILLSON 

Phaidon 

A look at the 

rich culinary 

pickings of the 

Nordic region, 

with 700 recipes, 

some well-known, some less so, 

selected and curated by the notable 

Swedish chef, Magnus Nilsson. 

The book is richly illustrated with 

personal photography from Nilsson 

and looks in depth at special 

ingredients famed throughout 

the Nordic region, telling a story 

of the area’s culinary history. 

Taking inspiration from the chef’s 

own travels around Denmark, 

the Faroe Islands, Finland, 

Greenland, Iceland, Norway 

and Sweden, the book is 

an inspiring and wanderlustinducing 

piece of work. 

THE FRENCH 

REVOLUTION 

BY MICHEL 

ROUX JUNIOR 

Orion Books 

As one of the 

best-known 

French chefs 

living on UK 

shores, and armed with his twostar 

Michelin star restaurant in 

London, Michel Roux Jr is wellplaced 

to write about French 

cooking. Far from being a history 

book, the author takes you on a 

tour, visiting classic French dishes 

entwined in his own French 

upbringing, plus modern dishes 

that do away with the complicated 

cooking techniques often 

associated with French cooking. 

Instead, he opts for recipes that 

delight the palate without any 

difficulty. Look out for favourites 

including a delicate pea tart with 

filo pastry, a healthy hollandaise 

and a poulet basquaise (chicken 

stew) – all coming together for a 

taste of France. 

WHITE HEAT: 

A HISTORY OF 

BRITAIN IN 

THE SWINGING 

SIXTIES 

BY DOMINIC 

SANDBROOK 

Abacus 

First coined 

under the 

administration of Prime Minister 

Harold Wilson, the term ‘White 

Heat’ alludes to the spirit of society 

during the 1960s, when England 

was undergoing monumental 

cultural and social change. From 

stories of Soho to tragedy in 

Northern Ireland, from designer 

Mary Quant and musician Mick 

Jagger to the drama of the football 

World Cup, this book unravels 

the threads that created an 

incredible period in Britain’s history. 

Informative, intelligent and highly 

readable, the book is a compelling 

social history. 



Viking TRAVEL 

COLUMN 

The Hermitage Behind Closed 

Doors guided tour for exclusive 

access to these secured vaults to 

see the many treasures within. 

My talisman and the piece of 

jewellery I have worn for the past 

20 years is a gold Scythian stag, 

a replica from the Gold Room, and 

a symbol of The Hermitage. 

Do you have a favourite place 

to walk in the city? 

I love the Field of Mars – it 

is peaceful and symbolic of 

everything that the city of has 

had to live through. An eternal 

flame burns in the centre, 

commemorating the victims of 

the 1917 Russian Revolution. 

ON LOCATION with Karine 

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, writing from home, takes 

the opportunity to recall her top tips for visitors to St. Petersburg 

What is your top tip for the 

first-time visitor? 

I would take a canal trip. There 

are around 100 canals and 

tributaries in the city, and over 

800 bridges. As many of the 

grandest buildings are situated 

along the banks of the canals, it is 

the best way to see the city! 

Visit Viking.TV for many 

more interviews and films 

about Russia. 

BORSCHT Serves 4 

How long did you live in 

St. Petersburg? 

I lived in the city for about 10 

years, on and off. 

What do you love most 

about the city? 

I love St. Petersburg for its 

people. They are so kind and 

incredibly cultured. Most Russian 

people also are very friendly and 

hospitable and will make you 

feel welcome. 

What are your favourite local 

dishes to eat? 

I love Russian food, and one of 

my favourite dishes is borscht. I 

recommend trying it cold as well. 

What do you like to do 

in the evenings? 

I go to the Mariinsky Theatre, 

especially if my good friend 

Xander is performing. He was the 

first British dancer to sign with 

the Mariinsky and he rose quickly 

to become a soloist, which was so 

well deserved. Afterwards, I like to 

go to the Shamrock Pub, owned 

by my friends, which is just across 

the street and a favourite haunt 

of ballet dancers. 

Which museums and galleries 

stand out for you? 

St. Petersburg is my top art 

destination as it has so much 

choice. I am particularly 

impressed by the storage facilities 

at The Hermitage. Viking guests 

can take a Privileged Access: 

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY 

INGREDIENTS: 

• 1.4 l (3 pints) chicken stock 

• 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped 

• ½ a green cabbage, very finely shredded 

• 3 tbsp olive oil 

• 3 medium beetroots, peeled and chopped 

• 1 red onion, finely chopped 

• 3 tbsp tomato purée 

• 2 bay leaves 

• 1 lemon 

• 3 tbsp chopped dill 

TO GARNISH: 

55g (2 oz) sour cream 

1 Heat the stock in a large pot and add the 

potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 

15 to 20 minutes until tender. Add the sliced 

cabbage and cook for another five minutes. 

2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan and 

gently sauté the beetroot and red onion until soft, 

then stir in the tomato purée. 

3 Transfer the contents of the pan into the stock 

pot and stir through, adding the bay leaves, a good 

squeeze of lemon juice and two tablespoons of the 

chopped dill. Season well with salt and pepper to 

taste and simmer for a further 15 minutes. Serve 

garnished with sour cream and the remaining dill. 



RIVERS 

The 

RIVER DANUBE 

An essential lifeline for transport and trade across central 

Europe, this river has also provided the inspiration for 

waltzes, poetry and paintings 

Left: A sunset 

view of the 

Danube River from 

the county of Pest, 

in central Hungary 

The River Danube has 

halted armies, divided 

countries and inspired 

poets and composers. 

Capital cities have grown up along 

its banks: Vienna; Bratislava; 

Belgrade; and Budapest. In 

addition, there are countless 

riverside towns and villages to 

explore, dominated by ancient 

castles and majestic abbeys, each 

concealing secrets and legends from 

centuries past. 

The Danube flows 2,870km 

through seven countries. Its 

journey takes it from a tiny spring 

in Germany’s Black Forest through 

the wooded hills of Bavaria, across 

the lush countryside of Austria’s 

Wachau Valley, famed for its wines, 

and beyond Vienna, onto the 

edge of the Hungarian steppes. 

It clips the southern spur of the 

semicircular Carpathian mountain 

range, forcing its way through the 

rock to create the dramatic Iron 

Gates Gorge on the border between 

Serbia and Romania, eventually 

broadening as it forks out into 

three arms that make up the delta, 

on the border between Romania 

and Ukraine. 

More than just a transport route, 

the Danube has created a dividing 

line between empires across history. 

The river once defined the northern 

boundary of the Roman Empire, 

creating a natural barrier against a 

world that the Romans considered 

to be hostile and barbarian. Many 

of the ancient fortifications along 

the banks date back to Roman 

times, and several of the region’s 

capital cities, not least Vienna, 



RIVERS 

Budapest and Belgrade, have grown 

from Roman strongholds. 

By the middle Ages, the Danube 

was a vital transport artery for trade 

between Europe, Greece and India. 

The river was also a route used by 

the Crusaders, while the Ottomans 

advanced along its banks on their 

march into Central Europe. 

Navigating the waterway was, 

however, difficult and in the early 

days, boats had no means of sailing 

upstream. Wooden vessels would 

carry goods downstream and once 

they had reached their destination 

and discharged their cargo, would 

be broken up. Later, wares were 

hauled upstream by horses. Steam 

power arrived in the early 19th 

century and the first scheduled 

service for passengers began in 

1830, operating between Vienna 

and Budapest. The company 

in charge of those early boats, 

the Donau-Dampfschiffahrts- 

Geselleschaft (DDSG) rapidly 

became the world’s most powerful 

inland navigation company, 

owning more than 200 steamships 

and some 750 barges. 

Parts of the Danube were closed 

to navigation as Europe descended 

into conflict in the early 20th 

century. Following the Second 

World War, as the continent 

was divided into East and West, 

passenger shipping ended abruptly 

at Vienna, the frontier of the then 

free world. The river remained open 

to commercial shipping throughout 

the Cold War but it was only since 

the breakup of the Soviet Union 

that river tourism into the former 

Eastern Bloc really developed. This 

was further hindered by the Balkans 

conflict in 1999, when bridges 

across the river were damaged. 

In 2002, however, the Danube 

was declared open for navigation 

and since then has become one of 

Europe’s most popular cruising 

routes. Pleasure cruising really took 

off in the 1970s, the old paddle 

wheelers steadily being replaced 

by more sophisticated ships which 

offered service levels similar to 

those of oceangoing ships. 

River tourism had already 

been growing for a decade since 

More than just a transport route, 

the Danube has created a dividing line 

between empires across history 

the opening of the Main-Danube 

Canal in 1992, a magnificent feat 

of engineering that connected the 

Rhine, the Main and the Danube 

via a 170km waterway that meant 

ships could cross Europe from the 

North Sea to the Black Sea. 

There’s more to the Danube than 

Strauss waltzes. Cruises typically 

begin at Passau, a beautiful city 

boasting the distinctive feature of 

Europe’s largest pipe organ in 

St. Stephan’s Cathedral. 

The Wachau Valley, the winegrowing 

district of Lower Austria, 

is one of the Danube’s most 

beautiful stretches, vineyards lining 

the banks and riverside villages 

guarded by ruined castles. At 

Melk, the majestic ochre-coloured 

Benedictine Abbey is perched on 

a wooded hillside. 

Close by, the riverside village 

of Dürnstein is one of the most 

picturesque in the area; the 

craggy remains of a castle in 

which Richard the Lionheart was 

imprisoned in the 12th century 

gaze down on a petty hamlet 

dominated by a blue, Baroque 

church tower, perched on the 

riverbank like a giant pepperpot. 

Vienna is, of course, a highlight 

of any Danube voyage. Although 

it’s the home of Strauss waltzes, 

grand coffee houses, world-class 

opera, dancing Lipizzaner horses 

and some of the world’s finest 

baroque palaces, Vienna is also 

making a name for itself as an 

emerging fashion and gastronomic 

centre. The city has a lively 

cultural scene, with many fine 

museums clustered together in the 

contemporary MuseumsQuartier, 

close to the centre. Vienna is as 

beautiful and romantic in winter, 

when the scent of cinnamon and 

mulled wine wafts through the 

snow-covered Advent markets, as it 

is in summer, when locals bask in 

the sunshine sipping Aperol Spritz 

and adopting an almost southern 

European approach to life. 

Bratislava, the capital of 

Slovakia, is dominated by a squat, 

16th century castle, the leafy 

squares and backstreets below lined 

with stunning Baroque palaces. 

Budapest, meanwhile, is one 

of the most beautifully situated 

riverside capitals, as the Danube 

flows right through the city centre, 

dividing Buda from Pest. Graceful 

buildings line the Pest bank, not 

least the fairytale, neo-gothic 

Parliament Building, while the 

old ramparts and the turreted 

Fishermen’s Bastion gaze down 

from a steep hill on the Buda side 

of the river. At night, the bridges 

are festooned with lights, creating 

a magical atmosphere. 

Many cruises end here but a 

voyage further east is almost like 

stepping back into the Middle 

Ages in places. Beyond Budapest, 

near Kalocsa, the fields are scarlet 

with peppers which are grown here 

to create the famous Hungarian 

paprika. Here, working riders 

from the Puszta region perform 

whip-cracking displays of daring 

horsemanship. 

The river flows on through 

Belgrade, capital of Serbia, where 

an imposing orthodox cathedral is 

set in the grounds of the spectacular 

Kalmegdan Fortress, a cluster of 

Turkish baths, Muslim tombs and 

today, museums, all surrounded 

by 19th century parkland. Beyond 

here, the Danube forces it way 

through the Iron Gates Gorge, an 

awe-inspiring sight, sheer-sided 

limestone cliffs towering over 

the river as it winds its way. 

Making its way east, Romania 

on one bank and Bulgaria on 

the other, the river flows on 

through rolling scenes of bucolic 

countryside, the fields brilliant 

with yellow sunflowers in summer 

and golden wheat in autumn, 

tiny farming hamlets seemingly 

untouched by the 21st century, 

a fascinating insight into another 

world entirely. 

Clockwise, 

from top left: A 

panoramic view 

of Budapest in 

the summer; the 

vineyards of the 

Wachau valley 

which produce 

a spectacular 

annual grape 

harvest; a view 

of the Iron Gates, 

forming part of 

the boundary 

between Serbia 

and Romania 



TRAVEL 

My VENICE 

Wendy Atkin-Smith, Viking’s UK Managing Director, shares 

her love for one of the most unique cities in the world 

I’ve been having a love affair 

with Venice for almost 20 

years and there is no sign 

of it waning. It’s the first 

place I want to go to when I have 

anything big to celebrate, when I 

just need cheering up or when I 

simply can’t resist the pull of just 

being there any longer. 

Sailing across the lagoon from 

the airport is a treat in itself and 

comes with a huge feeling of 

anticipation, like meeting a friend 

you haven’t seen for a long time. 

You can’t wait to see them but 

you hope they haven’t changed 

too much. Whether there are 

bright skies above or there’s the 

atmospheric mist hovering over the 

water, both are equally enticing. 

Sunshine means dining outside on 

the canal side listening to the local 

Venetians greeting all their friends 

and neighbours passing by. Winter 

means amazing light, less tourists 

and cosy restaurants with steamed 

up windows. 

There is a real sense of 

community in Venice. People seem 

to live in the same area of the city 

their whole lives. My favorite 

area is Cannaregio, the home of 

the famous church of Madonna 

dell’Orto, the Jewish Ghetto and 

some of the best local restaurants in 

the entire city. We’ve been visiting 

the same two restaurants for much 

of the time we’ve been travelling to 

Venice. The menus haven’t changed 

a great deal; they still serve the same 

Venetian specialities and whatever 

is in season because that’s what 

their loyal local customers want 

to eat. And, the same families run 

them still. The kids who started 

off helping out as waiters may 

now have families of their own but 

they’re still there working alongside 

their parents. There is always a 

warm welcome when we return too, 

even if it has been a while – “Good 

to see you Mr Nick, how’s your 

year been?” was a recent greeting at 

my husband’s favourite restaurant. 

There are lots of iconic places 

to visit in Venice but the best 

discoveries are often those you have 

when walking aimlessly or peoplewatching 

from a café. My favourite 

walk is from a café in the Ghetto 

to the Rialto Bridge. It takes you 

through the residential area, along 

the Strada Nova (the local high 

street) and past the Traghetto – the 

Gondala ferry where for a couple 

of Euros you can be rowed across 

the grand canal. Continue past the 

smart department store housed in 

the old post office, up the Rialto 

steps and down to Campo Bella 

Vienna and the tiniest bar Al Merca 

which serves drinks and those 

tasty cichetti snacks from just a 

counter in the wall. Next door is 

the amazing Casa di Pargmigina 

who will vacuum pack your cheese 

for you to bring home. Next take 

a walk around the nearby Rialto 

food market, boasting 

artistically displayed 

fruit and vegetables. 

The fish section is 

a sight to behold; 

piles of the freshest 

baby shrimp, scallops 

and squid and every 

kind of fish you can 

imagine. I’m already 

imaging what’s for 

dinner this evening! 


below: The Rialto 

fish market is a 

famous spot right 

on the Grand 

Canal; Wendy 

Atkin-Smith 

pictured in Venice; 

the waterways of 

Venice are lined 

with fascinating 

historic buildings 

PHOTOS: © I STOCK; WENDY ATKIN-SMITH 

74 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2020/21

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