GG_N43_COMPLET_ITA-WEB

SCHENK GROUP 

FROM 

SWITZERLAND 

TO THE WORLD 

Roberta Deflorian, Sales & Marketing 

Director for Schenk Italian Wineries 

SPRING 2021 

TOP PICKS FROM 

ITALY 

PAGES 115 TO 122 

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Spring 2021

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

– COLUMNS • REPORTS – 

10 

50 74 

94 

7 NEWS 

10 WINE ROUTE 

On the Gilbert & Gaillard wine route in South-West France 

24 REGION 

How Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages are 

coping with the global turmoil 

34 CHAMPAGNE - FUTURE 

New-wave winegrowers with existing or freshly-minted 

brands 

42 GRAPES 

42 Has the death knell sounded for Bordeaux Merlot? 

50 Pinot noir shows its true colours 

58 FRENCH EXPERTISE 

Artisanal fruit brandies – quintessential French 

craftsmanship 

66 SPAIN - REGION 

The Monastrell grape stakes its claim 

74 PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY 

Wineries taking on the future 

82 DISCOVERY 

Asti Docg and Moscato d’Asti Docg in the past, present 

and future 

93 UNITED KINGDOM - IMPORTER 

Boutinot Wines: “A business built on great people 

and fantastic quality” 

94 WINE GROWER PORTRAIT 

Schenk Group: From Switzerland to the world 

100 SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY 

Off the beaten track 

108 SOUTH AFRICA - PORTRAIT 

Gateway to the Swartland 

111 STARS & WINE 

Stanley Tucci: A lover of wine and Italy 

113 CONTACT DETAILS 

115 TASTING 

Our TOP WINES for Spring 2021 

GILBERT & GAILLARD NEXT ISSUE SUMMER 2021 

Cover: Courtesy of the estates 

SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 3

EDITORIAL 

– FRANÇOIS GILBERT – 

Editorial Director 

THE EVER-FASHIONABLE ASTI AND MOSCATO D’ASTI 

Such has been the Prosecco phenomenon over the last decade 

that it is easy to forget that one name – or wine – has encapsulated 

the flavour of Italy for almost a hundred years: Asti! Located in 

Piedmont, and demarcated in 1932, it extends across the provinces 

of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo, and is now divided into two related 

appellations: Moscato d’Asti Docg and Asti Docg. 

These have always been wines for celebration, grown in incredible 

vineyards that follow the contour of the hills. The area is home to 

unique scenery that you will not find in any other Italian region. 

It also boasts a huge ‘garden’ of Moscato vines, covering almost 

10,000 hectares, with slopes that can have staggering inclines of 

over 50%. 

Moscato d’Asti is a natural semi-sparkling wine, while Asti is a 

sparkling wine, but both of them benefit from the incredible 

aromatic spectrum of their shared grape variety, with suggestions of 

wisteria, lime, peach, apricot and notes of sage and orange blossom 

to name a few. These are gentle wines and their low alcohol content 

allows them to resonate with the mood of the day. 85 million 

bottles are produced annually, divided between some 50 million of 

Asti and 35 million of Moscato d’Asti. 85% of output is exported, 

providing irrefutable proof of their success. These are most definitely 

wines to look out for without further ado! 

4 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

– PHILIPPE GAILLARD – 

Editorial Director 

SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST SECRET WINE ROUTES 

Like France, whose flagship is Bordeaux, and the USA, primarily 

spearheaded by Californian wines, South Africa’s wine regions are often 

reduced to the historic Constantia and the tourist hotspot Stellenbosch, 

or even – more recently – to the ‘revolutionary’ newcomer, Swartland. 

But if I were to say Piekenierskloof, Cape Agulhas or Plettenberg Bay, 

would you be able to pinpoint the country I am suggesting you travel to? 

Probably not! The Western Cape boasts a thousand valleys, windswept 

bays and highlands with a fairly unfamiliar continental climate. Despite 

their picturesque charm, they tend to remain under the wine tourist’s 

radar. That’s precisely what makes this country so attractive, as it remains 

extremely unspoilt and never ceases to amaze both locals and tourists! 

It is also an opportunity to meet unconventional winegrowers with 

strong personalities, and to taste grape varieties other than the traditional 

Pinotage and Chenin, such as Mourvèdre, Pinot noir, Sauvignon blanc 

or even Merlot. 

And last but not least, it is a chance to grant oneself the incredible 

luxury, considering our current pandemic-induced limitations, to forget 

some of the worries of everyday life, to take the less trodden (wine) 

routes and to immerse oneself in the unspoilt natural surroundings 

that South Africa still offers. These are incredible places, where steep 

mountains, polo fields, springboks, cows, zebras... and even elephants, 

can live together side by side! You won’t regret it, that’s for sure! 


EDITORIAL 

– SYLVAIN PATARD – 

Editor in Chief 

THE REVIVAL OF MONASTRELL 

Originating in the Spanish region of Levante, the red grape variety 

Monastrell has for some years asserted its ability to produce high quality red 

wines, as well as interesting rosés. Also known as Mourvèdre and Mataró, 

it can be found in places as far and wide apart as Australia, California and 

Provence, where it has achieved ultimate fame in the Bandol appellation. 

Unlike other native varieties such as Tempranillo or Verdejo, Monastrell’s 

rise to prominence has been a long time coming and it took many years 

for it to shed its image as a ‘minor’ winegrape. Long underestimated, it was 

often vinted without all the due consideration it requires, producing high 

alcohol content, formidable tannins and oxidative characters that really did 

it no favours. It seemed to be doomed to be constantly upstaged by other 

varietals. But today, lower alcohol content and improved phenolic ripeness 

allow it to fully reveal the qualities of a premier and highly characterful 

grape variety. The work and sustained attention of winegrowers convinced 

of its potential has played a large part in this. Over the last two decades in 

particular, the ‘Levant’ grape variety has garnered genuine acclaim due to the 

beautifully crafted wines grown in the Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and 

Utiel-Requena designations of origin. 

These regions have an incredible advantage – they are home to high altitude 

vineyards with significant diurnal shifts, which are well suited to the local 

grape variety Monastrell. Provided with these conditions, it not only ripens 

well but can also reveal the quality of its vineyard sites. 


Cavavin N°43_Mise en page 1 30/03/2021 16:33 Page 1 

NEWS 

Château du 

COING DE SAINT-FIACRE 

2018 

Château 

SAINT-LAGER 

2019 

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 

Brouilly 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR 

€ 9.60* 

Stéphane MORIN 

CAVAVIN GUÉRANDE 

1 bis, Faubourg Sainte-Anne 

44350 GUÉRANDE 

( +33 2 40 24 96 55 

Domaine BELLIER 

La Girouette 2019 

€ 9.90* 

François BIGNON 

CAVAVIN PARIS 01 

18, rue du Roule 

75001 PARIS 

( +33 1 42 86 94 62 

CHÂTEAU D’OLLIÈRES 

Classique 2019 

SPRING 

2021 

Cheverny 

€ 7.80* 

Nathalie GARNIER 

CAVAVIN VERSAILLES 

86, rue de La Paroisse 

78000 VERSAILLES 

( +33 1 39 51 83 12 

Coteaux Varois en Provence 

€ 10.30* 

Loïc L’HARIDON 

CAVAVIN TOULON 

5, rue Henri Seillon 

83000 TOULON 

( +33 4 94 63 71 84 

* Retail price including sales tax 

Hardy Cognac has unveiled its Winter decanter, dressed with a spectacular Lalique 

crystal tiara. This is the latest addition to its Four Seasons collection 

and stems from its successful collaboration with France’s iconic 

crystal manufacturer. One of the decanter’s distinctive features is its 

sculpted ice-blue stopper epitomising the dormant vine as the 

first frosts occur. It offers a striking contrast with the warm hue 

of the Cognac, a blend of six one-hundred-year-old Grandes 

Champagnes selected by Armand Hardy between the two 

world wars. This exceptional blend comes unfortunately 

(or fortunately?) in finite quantities: only 400 pieces of this 

treasure are available in 70 or 75 cl formats. 

And for those who wish to complete, or begin, the Four 

Seasons collection, a few bottles of Spring, Summer and 

Autumn are still available by request only. 

Tel.: +33 5 45 82 97 41 - www.hardycognac.fr 

HARDYcognac - 

Winter’s finally here! 

hardycognacofficial 

Hardy Anthony - OFFICIAL HASHTAG #hardycognacofficial - www.lalique.com 

ERRATUM: In the article on the Médoc, in issue n°42, we gave the wrong internet details for Château Haut Couloumey. 

If you want to follow the estate’s news, check them out at @hautcouloumey on Facebook. 


NEWS 

Food/drink pairings: 

HandSomm answers all your questions 

What is HandSomm? The largest online database, 

available free of charge. Your SOMMelier in 

your hand! 

Does drinking the ‘right wine’ really make a difference 

when enjoying food? Experience shows that humans 

everywhere across the globe perceive the flavours and 

textures of foods and drinks better when they are paired 

well. A cold white meat with mayonnaise has a very similar 

texture to a fat white wine. Tasting them together makes 

people happy! With a strawberry tart, an overripe Chenin 

blends deliciously with the sugar and relative acidity of the 

fruit. The same goes for vanilla custard. 

Who is behind HandSomm? Just two friends who have 

been working on it for more than 10 years: Pierre Le 

Moullac, former director of the 3-star Michelin Ambroisie 

restaurant in Paris; and sommelier and computer scientist 

Alain Echalier. 

What does it feature? Comments on pairings, including 

some regional examples; descriptions of drinks, tips, recipes, 

cheeses... Each recipe has been tested, some of them many 

times. The scope covers dishes currently enjoyed in France, 

like beef bourguignon, onion soup, Big Mac and sashimi. 

All the French wine appellations are listed, as well as ciders 

and bars. And beers are in the pipeline... 

Any last words of advice? HandSomm was designed as a 

WebApp. You can use it with your smartphone or tablet. 

Watch the demo first, then have fun! 

www.HandSomm.com 

La Forêt Blanche Winery: A taste for modernity in Judea 

The La Forêt Blanche winery is located 

in an agricultural co-operative village 

called the Citadel of Judea (Metzadot- 

Yehuda), north of the Yatir Forest, in the 

historic Mount Hebron region where wine 

has been made for 3,000 years. The land 

forms the historical and spiritual connection 

and is an integral part of the soul of the La 

Forêt Blanche winery run by Jacques Bris 

(CEO), Bruno Darmon (winemaker) and 

Menachem Livni (winegrower). 

The company’s philosophy is that the aroma 

and taste of a fine wine should reflect its 

terroir. The wines are therefore made from noble grape 

varieties using rigorous, precision techniques and only 

environmentally-friendly products to protect the natural 

surroundings of the vineyard. The distinctive climate of 

the Judean Mountains – with their extreme summer heat, 

ice-cold winter and a diurnal temperature 

shift of up to 20°C – imbues the grapes 

with complex flavours and aromas. The 

conditions are particularly conducive to 

growing Cabernet-Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, 

Shiraz and Pinot Noir. 

Though it has been in operation for several 

years, it is still a young winery and launched 

its first wines in Israel and international 

markets a year ago. We tasted them recently 

and enjoyed them a great deal. The 6 labels 

garnered scores ranging from 88/100 to 

93/100 for the 2017 Ya’Ar Levanon, a single 

varietal Cabernet-Sauvignon. This is a modern wine whose 

primary feature is to offer enjoyment. It’s an absolute 

must-try! 

La Forêt Blanche Winery: +972 54 661 9899 

https://lfbwinery.com/ 


THE GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE: 

MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR WINE 

REGIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD 

FRANCE 

SPAIN 


SOUTH AFRICA 

THE LAFFITTE BROTHERS, 

THE GASCON DREAM TEAM 

MURVIEDRO: 

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE 

WITH MONASTRELL 

SPRING 2021 


SPAIN 


SCHENK GROUP 

FROM 

SWITZERLAND 

TO THE WORLD 

Roberta Deflorian, Sales & Marketing 

Director for Schenk Italian Wineries 

SOUTH AFRICA: 

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 

SPRING 2021 




SPRING 2021 


FRANCE 


On the left Sébastien, viticulturist, 

with Christophe, the winemaker 

Spring 2021 

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Juan José Muñoz, 

the Technical Director 

at Murviedro 

Spring 2021 

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Spring 2021 

SPRING 2021 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Marinda Kruger-Claassen, 

business manager/winemaker 

at Elgin Vintners 

Spring 2021 

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

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Mas des Combes has 34 hectares under vine, mostly planted to 

indigenous grape varieties Braucol, Duras and Prunelard for the reds, 

and Mauzac and Loin de l’oeil for the whites 

SOUTH WEST 

– WINE ROUTE – 

ON THE GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE ROUTE 

in South-West France 

At one end of the scale are the red wines of Cahors, on the other the sweet whites 

of Monbazillac. Between the two is a plethora of wine styles that are as refined and 

varied as the local gastronomy. Bergerac, Madiran, Gaillac, Fronton, Pacherenc 

du Vic-Bilh and Saint-Mont – the appellations of South-West France showcase their 

native grape varieties. Take a trip away from the well-trodden wine routes and meet 

the growers who push the boundaries with Tannat, Malbec and Braucol. From the 

co-operative wineries to the independent producers, we are taking you on an allnew 

wine route across South-West France to meet our favourite local producers. 

By Alexandra Reveillon – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH WEST 


Fabien Castaing is the fifth generation at the helm of the family-run 

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 

Bordeaux. End of the line. Everyone off. 

Leave the vineyards of Gironde behind 

you. Just this once, we suggest you head 

west, then south. First stop, Bergerac, 

to the home of Fabien Castaing. For 

five generations, his family has been 

producing Monbazillac, Bergerac and Côtes de Bergerac 

at Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy. After a few hours 

travelling across the Périgord and Quercy Blanc regions, 

Cahors rolls out its medieval bridge and vineyards. 

The town, in the heart of the South-West, is where 

the Vinovalie co-operative group has one of its four 

wineries and one of its châteaux, Les Bouysses, though 

its most iconic property is a few hundred kilometres to 

the south, in Gaillac. After a detour through the mustvisit 

citadel of Cordes-sur-Ciel, we stop off at Mas des 

Combes belonging to Rémi and Nathalie Larroque in 

Gaillac, for one of their aperitif-cum-concert events. 

After a night in Toulouse, it’s time to travel to the other 

side of the ‘pink city’ and into the Pyrenean foothills 

for a stop-over in Plaisance or Saint-Mont, in one of 

Plaimont’s six wineries, followed by a visit to Alain 


SOUTH WEST 


Brumont in Madiran. The last place on the tour is Ayzieu, 

at Christophe and Sébastien Laffitte’s, who swapped 

Armagnac for Côtes de Gascogne, before we head back 

to Bordeaux. These few days offer a guaranteed change of 

scenery and the chance to meet many interesting people. 

Here’s a little taster. 

Convinced of the benefits of organic farming since he 

took over Château Les Mailleries in 2016, Fabien Castaing 

has chosen to convert all of his farm 

Although grape varieties like Malbec and Sauvignon gris are in a minority in 

Bergerac, these unexpected varieties give Moulin-Pouzy’s wines character 

STAGE 1: BERGERAC 

INNOVATION AND EXPERTISE AT 

DOMAINE DE MOULIN-POUZY 

Being the fifth generation of a winegrowing family 

and innovating are not mutually exclusive, as Fabien 

Castaing illustrates to perfection. At the helm of familyrun 

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy since 2008, Castaing 

is constantly thinking outside the box. His latest 

releases are his sulphite-free red Bergerac and his 100% 

Sauvignon Gris orange wine, both of them testifying to 

his entrepreneurial spirit. Although these latest additions 

are made on a boutique scale, Castaing approaches his 

entire range with the same inquisitive spirit. In 2016, 

he bought Château Les Mailleries, renowned for its 

limestone, flint and clay soils to the south of Bergerac. 

It was love at first sight and it allowed him to discover 

the benefits of farming organically and the value of 

the region’s slightly under-the-radar grape varieties 

such as Malbec and Sauvignon Gris. “Malbec produces 

much more opulent reds”, he explains. “Sauvignon gris 

accounts for 70% of the blend at Les Mailleries. It’s very 

unusual and enables us to craft high-end white styles”. 

Moulin-Pouzy may not have the same soil types but that 

didn’t stop Castaing from introducing theses varieties 

there a few years ago to add a new dimension to his 

AOC Bergerac, Côtes de Bergerac and Monbazillac. 

Malbec imparts his 95% Merlots with a silky structure. 

“These are wines driven by super ripe fruit. Malbec gives 

them a bit of body”, he stresses. Under the influence 

of global warming, his sweet and noble-rot wines have 

seen their alcohol content increase in recent years, but 


SOUTH WEST 


Vinovalie boasts around fifteen chateaux, including Château Les Bouysses in Cahors, 

which will become one of the group’s wine tourism destinations over the next few years 

compromising the ripeness and aromatic expression of 

the fruit is not an option. Introducing Sauvignon Gris 

and Ugni Blanc has therefore been a game-changer. 

“They add freshness and acidity, reinstating the style 

of wines we produced twenty years ago”. 

Fabien Castaing’s keenness to innovate can be seen 

in his recently-built cellar door facilities, designed 

to welcome private customers. He has given himself 

two years to develop wine tourism experiences by 

opening a gîte and introducing activity trails. Sensing 

a change in consumer trends, in spring 2021 he joined 

the digital revolution, launching his own e-commerce 

website. Standing still is something Castaing is 

incapable of – he even ventured into the American 

market in 2020, right in the midst of the Covid crisis. 

“And it’s doing pretty good”, he smiles. 

STAGE 2: CAHORS 

VINOVALIE IS PLAYING AT HOME, IN CAHORS, 

FRONTON AND GAILLAC 

Solidarity, mutual aid, team spirit... that Vinovalie’s 

values should resonate with those of rugby, a staple of 

South-West France, is no accident. Here, the concept 

of group becomes highly significant – Vinovalie 


SOUTH WEST 


One of South-West France’s juggernauts, the co-operative winery and 

chateau group Vinovalie accounts for 25% of AOC Cahors, 

57% of Fronton and 36% of Gaillac 

represents 4 co-operative wineries, around fifteen estates 

and châteaux and 400 winegrowers united under the 

same banner since 2006. A leading producer of AOC 

Fronton and Cahors and the powerhouse of AOC Gaillac, 

Vinovalie has scored many points. Admittedly, it took no 

chances: with the support of a panel of experts, it focused 

on its Tarani range to ensure broad consumer appeal and 

therefore tap into a variety of export markets. Its game 

plan? To produce wines that are fruity, aromatic and easy 

to drink made from international grape varieties. “This 

is a critical cue in foreign markets”, notes Sandra Ferral, 

Vinovalie’s export director. “In France, appellations and 

provenance hold pride of place, but in export markets 

the varietal is key. In Australia, for example, the wines 

are classified according to the varieties used”. The group 

has a presence in the United Kingdom, Japan and the 

Netherlands in particular, but it aims to conquer the 

United States and Russia in years to come. 

Although the Tarani label has become Vinovalie’s calling 

card, the group has not forgotten the driver of its 

collective strength: its diversity. Its four co-operative 

wineries produce niche wines that showcase local grape 

varieties, such as Malbec and Negrette. The 4,000 hectare, 

HVE-certified vineyard controlled by the group has 10% 

of its area farmed organically. The chateaux and estates 

“are run as independent properties”, stresses Ferral. Some, 

like Château de Tauziès in Gaillac, provide exposure for 

the expertise of Vinovalie’s winegrowers by offering 

hotel experiences surrounded by vineyards. Chateaux 

Les Bouysses, in Cahors and Marguerite, in Fronton, will 

likely go down the same route in a few years’ time. 

Nathalie Larroque welcomes visitors to the winery at Mas des Combes, 

where she also holds aperitif-cum-concerts, 

weather and the health situation permitting 

STAGE 3: GAILLAC 

WELCOME TO MAS DES COMBES 

At Mas des Combes, wine is a family affair. Rémi Larroque 

embodies the fifteenth generation of winegrowers at the 

helm of the estate he inherited from his parents. With 

help from his wife Nathalie, he farms 34 hectares of 


SOUTH WEST 


In Gaillac, Rémi Larroque and his wife Nathalie produce red and white wines, as well as an ancestral method sparkling wine, 

all of them matured in stainless steel 

vines in the heart of the Gaillac appellation, where 

he has set out to raise the profile of native grape 

varieties. Braucol - also known as Fer Servadou - Duras 

and Prunelard thus spearhead the reds, blended with 

Merlot, which softens the tannins, and Syrah, which 

helps round out the wines. With its crimson hue tinged 

with purplish-blue and nose of spices, liquorice and 

black fruit, Coteaux d’Oustry is without doubt the finest 

example of Rémi Larroque’s craftsmanship. Matured 

entirely in tanks, like all the estate’s wines, it reveals a 

full and fleshy palate that testifies to the winegrower’s 

penchant for ripe and candied fruit. For the whites, 

Mauzac and Loin de l’œil (len de l’el) are the basis 

for Rémi Larroque’s dry and sweet wines, though he 


Nearly 800 families of winegrowers craft the character of Plaimont wines, 

many of them showcasing local grape varieties suited to the climate and 

soils of the Pyrenean foothills 

SOUTH WEST 



SOUTH WEST 


Plaimont is a group of 5 main wineries and a dozen chateaux, including Château de Cassaigne, 

located in the heart of IGP Côtes de Gascogne 

also makes a single varietal Mauzac sparkling wine 

using the ‘ancestral method’. Made with no dosage, its 

effervescence stems from its residual sugars. 

Mas des Combes has been selling its wines to the 

American, Canadian and Swedish markets since 2018, 

but saw its export sales come to a standstill due to 

the pandemic. The vast majority of its wines, though, 

are sold in the domestic market, to wine merchants, 

supermarkets, wholesalers and private customers. The 

public is welcomed to the estate every summer, where 

Nathalie Larroque hosts an aperitif-cum-concert event 

in front of the winery. Apparently, people have even 

been known to try out their dance steps, and hopefully 

will be able to do so again once the situation gets back 

to normal. 

STAGE 4: PLAISANCE 

BETWEEN PLAISANCE AND SAINT-MONT, 

PLAIMONT NURTURES ITS ROOTS 

Forget the image of the multinational corporation filling 

bottles without knowing what it puts in them. Plaimont 


SOUTH WEST 


Mixed farming was long the norm at Château Bouscassé, 

before vines became the primary crop 

may well be one of France’s 5 largest co-operative 

wineries for still wines, producing 30 to 35 million 

bottles a year, it is not about to forget its roots or the 

personality of its winegrowers. Founded more than forty 

years ago, the co-operative group mainly extends over the 

Gers department and a few neighbouring departments. 

It currently has 5 main wineries and a dozen chateaux 

spread over the Côtes de Gascogne, Saint-Mont, Madiran 

and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh appellation areas. In all, 

nearly 800 winegrower families craft the character of 

Plaimont wines, placing particular emphasis on local 

grape varieties, suited to the vineyard sites and weather 

in the foothills of the Pyrenees. International varieties are 

grown but remain in the minority and are mostly used to 

enhance local cultivars. Yes, there is Sauvignon, but it is 

blended with Colombard; Merlot, in small quantities, is 

blended with Tannat. The Echo Indigo label, named after 

the plant native to the region producing vibrant blue 

dyes, is one such blend. 

But the co-operative group’s primary strength is its ability 

to supply big brands, whilst at the same time tailoring 

bespoke labels, mastering micro-batch winemaking and 

single vineyard selection to perfection, as evidenced 

by its pre-phylloxera wine. Made from Tannat vines 

over 200 years old planted on fawn sands that survived 

phylloxera and have come down through the centuries, 

only a few thousand bottles are made and utmost care 

and attention is lavished on them. Visitors to Plaimont 

can see this attention to detail themselves by following 

the guided tours held in each of the wineries. Unless, that 

is, they prefer to slip into the shoes of a winemaker for a 

few hours and indulge in a bit of blending. 

The influence of the mountains and the Pyrenean foothills are 

encapsulated in the wines of Alain Brumont, who claims to make 

‘landscape’ wines 

STAGE 5: MADIRAN 

MADIRAN, THE REALMS OF ALAIN BRUMONT 

No stop to Madiran would be complete with a mention 

of Alain Brumont. For nearly 40 years, he has been 

taking Tannat to new heights, producing wines that are 


SOUTH WEST 


For nearly 40 years, Alain Brumont has allowed Tannat to shine, producing wines that are 

delicate yet powerful, complex and harmonious 

both refined and powerful, complex and harmonious. 

However, his story was not a foregone conclusion: when 

he left school at the age of 15 to help his father, the 

family estate had just 17 hectares of vines. Mixed farming 

was the norm here, as it was for most of the local farms. 

For fifteen years or so, Alain Brumont walked and worked 

the land, getting a handle on the diversity of vineyard 

sites across the foothills of the Pyrenees, and gradually 

reined in the wild Tannat. Up until that point, Madiran’s 

king of grape varieties was rarely tamed. It was mainly 

drunk as a jug wine, and maturation had yet to become 

common practice. By the end of the 1970s, the young 

grower was ready to make a go of it alone. Using different 

exposures to the sunshine, grape varieties and vineyard 

sites, he created a style and flavour that made a huge 

contribution to Madiran’s global success. 


SOUTH WEST 


Long drunk as jug wines, Madiran gradually switched to bottles, primarily under the 

influence of Alain Brumont 

Forget wines that only reach their peak after a couple of decades. Alain Brumont has 

successfully established his style and produces wines that are both powerful yet also 

accessible when young 

Since then, Alain and Laurence Brumont have constantly sought to push 

the envelope, going ever further in their quest to produce more precise 

and accomplished wines, like their Château Bouscassé, a blend of 

Tannat, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, displaying a deep hue 

with garnet tints. Its nose of stewed fruit unfurls notes of undergrowth, 

and complex aromatic expression that achieves harmony on the palate. 

Its power and finesse are the counterpoints to supple body and silky 

tannins, and they illustrate the quality of the Brumonts’ work. Alain 

Brumont is a visionary and as such, he was one of the first to become 

involved in wine tourism in the region. Visitors can explore the diversity 

of Châteaux Montus and Bouscassé on foot or by bike, soaking up their 


SOUTH WEST 


At the Laffittes, wines are designed in unison. Sébastien is the viticulturist, whilst 

Christophe is tasked with winemaking 

The Laffitte family produced Armagnac for many years. Although the younger 

generation prefers to make wine, Christophe and Sébastien still produce a few dozen 

bottles every year 

incredible character and discovering the connections between wine, oak 

trees and local gastronomy. And that’s one experience not to be missed! 

STAGE 6: AYZIEU 

HOW THE LAFFITTE BROTHERS WORK IN UNISON 

On one side is Sébastien, viticulturist; on the other, Christophe, the 

winemaker. For the Laffitte brothers, wine is all about working in 

unison. Since they took over the family-owned Côtes de Gascogne 

estate in 2003, the two winegrowers have breathed new life into 

the property, which long focused entirely on producing Armagnac. 

Although their parents had already set their sights squarely on wine, 


SOUTH WEST 


The Laffitte brothers make it their mission to provide fruity, 

everyday wines for pleasure 

it was not until the new generation came along that the 

wines were bottled, and that four different ranges were 

established and marketed in equal shares in France and 

overseas. 

The fresh, fruity and easy-drinking wines crafted by the 

Laffitte brothers are light years away from the hackneyed 

image of heady wines from South-West France. In their 

book, enjoyment is an absolute priority. The range 

embraces dry and sweet whites, reds and rosés labelled 

Petit Gascoûn and Domaine Laffitte and honours local 

grape varieties, spearheaded by Colombard, Tannat and 

Manseng. Planted on the fawn sand soils typical of Bas- 

Armagnac, the vines produce light wines, with alcohol 

content coming in at no more than 12%. Sébastien and 

Christophe Laffitte nurture freshness in their wines – they 

opt for night harvesting to preserve the integrity of the 

fruit; and use extended ageing in stainless steel tanks to 

give the wines time to fully develop their aromas. Made 

from Colombard and Ugni blanc, their IGP Côtes de 

Gascogne Le Petit Gascoûn label is the best example of 

their approach. Its pale yellow colour is mingled with 


SOUTH WEST 


Planted on the fawn sand soils typical of Bas-Armagnac, the vines at Domaine Laffitte produce 

light wines with an ABV no higher than 12% 

light green reflections. Its remarkable nose of citrus and 

white fruits reveals fresh touches of menthol and spices. 

The attack on the palate is tense and underpinned by 

pronounced lemon notes then flows into green pepper. 

This is a mineral white wine, best enjoyed when young. 

NO LACK OF PERSONALITIES TO MEET 

Our journey has reached its end. Far removed from all 

the clichés, the wines of South-West France bring together 

myriad local grape varieties with strong characters that 

reveal an incredible aromatic spectrum. In this land of 

tradition, producers do not shy away from international 

grape varieties, blending them with their native grapes to 

craft wines that are enjoyed from Los Angeles to Tokyo, 

London and Brussels. Wine was long considered a minor 

art in the complex balance of mixed farming, but it has 

now acquired its pedigree. The region’s winegrowers 

have had to learn how to position wine as an essential 

piece of the puzzle of success, one that combines values, 

gastronomy, lifestyle and innovation. And there is no 

doubt that their gamble has paid off. 


RHONE VALLEY 

– REGION – 

Fields of lavender in the southern Rhone Valley in the Provence part of Drome 

HOW CÔTES DU RHÔNE AND CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES 

are coping with the global turmoil 

From lockdown to the closure of bars and restaurants due to Covid; 

from the competitive disadvantage of Trump taxes to the downturn in China; 

and of course Brexit, 2020 had a significant impact on world trade and the French wine 

industry. Players in the northern and southern Rhone Valley proved to be proactive. 

They share their experiences and concerns with Gilbert & Gaillard. 

By Christelle Zamora - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - ©M. Chapoutier - ©EPerrin 


RHONE VALLEY 


Wine grower and negociant Michel Chapoutier who leads the way for organic winegrowing 

and has pioneered biodynamics in the northern Rhone Valley 

From Hermitage hill, where Michel Chapoutier has one 

of the most scenic viewpoints in the northern Rhone 

valley, the region’s undisputed leader of organic and 

biodynamic winegrowing is furious. He knows only too 

well how serious the consequences of the Airbus-Boeing 

dispute and consequential Trump taxes are for the entire 

French wine and spirits industry. 2020 was not just the year of the 

pandemic, it also revealed the impact of the 25% additional duties 

slapped on French wines under 14% ABV in containers under 

2 litres in October 2019. Since 12 January 2021, the taxes have 

been extended to include all still wines and wine-based spirits, 

which will make an even bigger dent in sales for 2021. 

FROM TRUMP TAXES TO BREXIT 

“The decision by the US administration to apply punitive tariffs in 

retaliation for subsidies improperly paid to Airbus is both unfair 

and unacceptable to the wine industry*. Our strategy involved 

both anticipation and staying in the public eye. We exported wines 

before the tax was made official, and maintained our links with the 

United States. But the Americans don’t like to pay taxes, and we felt 

that customers were avoiding French wines in the US. So we had 

to slash our margins by 8 to 12%”, claims Chapoutier. Winemaker 

Simon Gauthier at Domaine de la Présidente in Vaucluse realised 

that the drop in prices put his estate in direct competition with the 

likes of Guigal and Chapoutier. 

* The Biden administration recently suspended the tariffs for a four-month period 


RHONE VALLEY 


Maison Chapoutier’s famous Le Pavillon designated vineyard in the Ermitage 

appellation on the left bank of the Rhone. The vineyard covers 4 hectares on 

Hermitage hill and boasts very specific soils 

For smaller estates, sales remained dynamic in the first 

quarter of 2020. “But orders shipped at the beginning 

of the year generated lower sales in export markets, the 

market stalled and restocking did not materialise in June. 

In the United States, we cut our margins by 10% and 

importers refocused on their long-standing suppliers. 

Listings were put on hold”, says Marty Echerei, sales 

manager for Domaine Lucien Tramier. Although it is 

refocusing on the French and European market, Domaine 

Lucien Tramier has not lost sight of the American market, 

which it has been canvassing for the past two years. In the 

future, it intends to reinvest in the East and then the West 

coast of the United States. 

Rhone Valley wines have declined by 17% in volume 

and 23% in value in the American market, their leading 

export market. The disruption has favoured the British 

market, which ranked first just as Brexit came into force. 

Although the United Kingdom exited the European Union 

in January 2020, concerns about additional customs 

or import duties have been allayed, offering guarantees 

of a level playing field. Obviously, Brexit comes with 

administrative and customs formalities, but the extra red 

tape, whilst a hindrance to trade flows, does not seem to 

be penalising exports. At the time of writing, the market for 

Rhone wines in the UK has surged by 14%. 

Some wineries that had not be working with the British 

market have broken new ground online through formats 

such as 37.5 cl bottles. Domaine des Gravennes, which 

farms 30 hectares in the southern part of Drome and 

exports 30% of its wines, is a case in point. “We didn’t 

really have a presence in England but during lockdown, a 

market opened up through development of online sales”, 

recounts Luc Bayon de Noyer. 

Lucien Tramier’s vineyard in Jonquières, Vaucluse 

BOOMING OR COMPLEX MARKETS 

When he became chairman of Inter Rhône in November 

2020, Philippe Pellaton suggested the industry promote 

Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Villages and the region’s 

Crus. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château Sixtine exports 

95% of its wines. For its owner Jean-Marc Diffonty, who 

saw a third of his exports in the category, i.e. 70,000 bottles, 

wiped out, the Côtes du Rhône appellations will be the 

hardest hit by the Trump taxes. Despite Côtes du Rhône 


RHONE VALLEY 


Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des Gravennes near Suze-la-Rousse 

in southern Drome 

sales falling then coming to a standstill, however, he has 

stocked up on wines at good prices in order to be ready as 

soon as the tax-burdened market recovers. 

He also points to forecasts for rising sales in some Northern 

European markets, particularly Sweden. Countries with state 

monopolies such as Norway and Canada are performing 

well. Fortunately, across export markets, the estate’s wines 

are sold via digital platforms where sales are booming, says 

Diffonty. 

In China, export volumes of French wines have declined 

(-28% vs. 2019). “The market has become more complex. 

We’ve been working there for 5 years, and we’re 6 months 

behind in sales”, says Luc Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des 

Gravennes. “In the Asian market, Gilbert & Gaillard medals 

will come in extremely useful. Our importers require that 

the medal sticker be displayed on the bottle because it is a 

guarantee of professionalism and recognition for the Chinese 

consumer”. Jean-Marc Diffonty concurs: “Currently, we can 

no longer do without medals, they are a promotional tool for 

our clients, particularly in Asian markets such as in Singapore. 

The medal is a guarantee of constant quality that builds 

customer loyalty”. And for the Château Sixtine winegrower, a 

loyal customer is always better than an impulsive customer. 


RHONE VALLEY 


Looking out over the vineyards of Domaine Saint-Etienne in Gard, 

owned by Maison Chapoutier 

Château de Grignan surrounded by fields of lavender 

MEDALS ARE ESSENTIAL 

In the French market, trade channels have evolved and new 

consumption patterns have emerged. Maison Chapoutier, 

which previously channelled many of its wines through 

wine merchants and the hospitality industry has had to 

reinvent itself. “The closure of cafés, hotels and restaurants 

has led us to redirect our sales efforts towards private 

customers, works councils, digital companies and internet 

sales. Our sales in the hospitality industry, which usually 

amount to €60 million, have fallen by just 9%”, stresses 

Chapoutier. 

There is no lack of initiative when it comes to regaining 

French shelf space and become stronger than ever. Michel 

Chapoutier, with his Gard estate Roc Folassières which 

produces AOC Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône- 

Villages, and Domaine Saint-Etienne also located on the 

Gard side of the Rhone, both covering 30 hectares each, 

feels that Gilbert & Gaillard medals are extremely useful 

when it comes to gaining visibility in French supermarkets 

and hypermarkets. “Our buyers are attentive to this 

and aim to showcase medal-winning wines, improving 

placement on the shelves”, he says. 

At Domaine de la Presidente in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes 

in Vaucluse, winemaker Simon Gauthier is delighted 

with the quality of the 2020 vintage, but feels it’s an 

understatement to say that marketing is a struggle. “The 

gold medals for our Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône- 

Villages will make us more at ease when exporting. The 

medals are important for online sales, where comments by 

guides and journalists are valued”, he explains. 

Exports of wines from this 137-hectare estate remained 

stable in the first quarter of 2020, but in the restaurant 

industry, sales have fallen sharply and show a 70% loss 

in revenue. “On the other hand, we increased cellar door 

sales by 25%, but failed to fully tap into the very dynamic 

wine merchant market, which grew by 30% over the 

period. We have directed our sales efforts towards this 

channel by approaching distributors such as Vinatis, Le 

Petit Ballon and Plugwine but the trade-off was being able 

to display medals which have a strong commercial impact 

on access to these markets”. Going forward, Domaine de 

la Présidente intends to prioritise the French and local 

market in a more sustainable way. 


RHONE VALLEY 


At Domaine de Montine, welcoming visitors to the cellar door facilities is essential for developing wine tourism 

WINE TOURISM IN SOUTHERN DROME 

About twenty kilometres away, heading towards 

Montélimar, Domaine de Montine in Grignan is doing 

well. Jean-Luc Monteillet runs this family estate with his 

brother. The estate only produces 480 hl of Côtes du 

Rhône and 70 hl of Côtes du Rhône-Villages, focusing 

primarily on AOC Grignan les Adhémar wines (2,347 hl 

annually), and regional wines (IGP). Over the last ten 

years, it has grown considerably and now extends over 

70 hectares. Investments have been made in the winery 

and the barrel cellar, followed by the establishment of 

a restaurant and now a hotel (5 rooms), which is due to 

open in 2021. 

The estate also has 20 ha of lavender and 5 ha of truffle 

oaks, adding to its appeal as a high-end wine tourism 

destination. AOC Grignan les Adhémar wines are grown 

on the northern edge of the southern Rhone valley and 


RHONE VALLEY 


The winery at Domaine de Montine in Grignan 

have very little export coverage. The Côtes du Rhône 

and Côtes du Rhône-Villages wines here benefit from 

the renowned, scenic village of Grignan. Located on the 

holiday route south - the celebrated Nationale 7 – the 

chateau that once belonged to Madame de Sévigné is an 

essential stop-over at the gateway to Provence. So here, the 

focus is on tourism. 

The village now has a Michelin-starred restaurant but 

also an eclectic programme of cultural events (theatre, 

writing, jazz). The local wine estates are buoyed by the 

development of tourism and the events centring on wines, 

truffles and books. “The reason why we didn’t suffer too 

much from the health crisis, is because historically the 

estate has a strong direct-to-consumer focus. Only 20% 

of our revenue comes from exports and 40% from the 

hospitality industry and wine merchants”, explains Jean- 

Luc Monteillet. Domaine de Montine’s other USP lies in its 

history – it is one of the oldest estates in Grignan. 

“Usually we take part in about fifteen trade and public 

fairs which have all been cancelled. Fortunately, the 

summer season was outstanding with customers that 

have a fondness for the local area returning. Many French, 

Belgian, Swiss, German and English holidaymakers came 

to taste our wines”. Grignan is unquestionably a jewel 

in the Rhone wine route’s crown. Domaine de Montine 

intends to fully capitalise on this and will once again 

be planning dinners around truffles and wine, as well 

as its horse-drawn carriage rides, all of which appeal 

to an audience keen to awaken their senses. Over the 

past 5 years, the estate has also been committed to the 

HVE (High Environmental Value) certification process for 

sustainable winegrowing. 

Domaine de Montine provides sporting activities 

CLEAN WINEGROWING, BUYING LOCAL 

AND HOME DELIVERIES 

This is another of Philippe Pellaton’s priorities. As the 

current chair of regional marketing board Inter-Rhône, he 

encourages wine producers to develop their sustainable 

winegrowing credentials. Founded in 1912 in Jonquières, 

Domaine Lucien Tramier has been a family estate for 

4 generations. Its current owners are Lucien Tramier, the 

founder’s grandson, and his son-in-law, Max Thomas. 

Together, they perpetuate the heritage of this 40-hectare 


RHONE VALLEY 


Jean-Luc Monteillet and his daughter Mélina 

estate where vines grow on the clay-limestone soils of 

Jonquières, in Vaucluse. Over the last 15 years, they have 

developed sales of bottled wines and exports. In the 

process of converting to organic, they intend to maximise 

the potential of the endorsement in France and Europe, 

where it is highly valued. 

Their range includes wines for fun under the ‘Pitreries’ 

label of varietals, but also more serious Côtes du Rhône, 

Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan-de-Dieu and the villagedesignated 

appellation Cairanne. Although part of the 

wines are still sold in bulk, 100,000 bottles are produced 

under IGP Méditerranée, 15,000 bottles as Côtes du 

Rhône and Côtes du Rhône-Villages and 6,700 bottles as 

Cru Cairanne with its star-studded reputation. 

Not far away, at the foot of Château de Suze-la-Rousse, 

brothers Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer run the vineyard 

at Domaine des Gravennes, set amidst lavender and truffle 

oaks. Les Gravennes is a certified organic estate. “Our 

parents’ ethos was always not to grow vines intensively 

but to heed the call of nature”, recalls Luc, the younger 

of the two brothers. “We have made it our mission to 


Max Thomas and Lucien Tramier 

RHONE VALLEY 



RHONE VALLEY 


Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des Gravennes 

apply the principles of biodynamics and agro-ecology”. Their 

philosophy is tangible in their six Côtes du Rhône and Côtes 

du Rhône-Villages Suze-la-Rousse labels. These artisanal wines 

are not sold in supermarkets. During the first lockdown, 35% 

of the wines that are normally sold in the hospitality industry 

and to wine merchants were immobilised. Their clientele of 

restaurateurs is mostly concentrated in Paris, where many 

fashionable, trailblazing outlets are located. 

However, the brothers did not throw in the towel and 

continued to expand their cellar door sales, local sales 

and home deliveries. “During the first lockdown, we sent 

e-mailings to our customers and provided free delivery on 

orders of €300 and gave them a free bottle of wine. This 

worked well for our private customers”, says Luc Bayon de 

Noyer. When it came to the autumn and trade fairs were cancelled 

again, wine merchants picked up the slack and sales 

increased by 30% compared to previous vintages. “This time, 

we developed short distribution channels. We had to reinvent 

ourselves and secured listings with local organic shops”. 


Vines at Côteaux-Vitryats 

CHAMPAGNE 

– FUTURE – 

NEW-WAVE WINEGROWERS 

with existing or freshly-minted 

brands 

Can the smaller Champagne winegrowers and industry powerhouses make comfortable 

bedfellows? Do the major producers and negociants leave room for anyone else? 

Does climate change pose a critical threat? Seven properties that have risen to these 

challenges provide the answers to our questions. 

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - © Michel Jolyot 


CHAMPAGNE 


CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS - 

NON-INTERVENTIONIST 

When you are the third generation of a family producing 

Champagne on the Montagne de Reims, do you even 

consider doing anything else? Seven hectares of vines, 

divided between Verzenay and Verzy, two Grand Cru 

villages, provide enough income to support just one family. 

So the agreement between Stéphane and his father was that 

he would take over the business, when he turned 30. 

In the meantime, his dream was to become a sommelier. 

But the training was not what it is today, and so he decided 

to learn the ropes differently. Ten years as a wine merchant 

in Alsace gave him the opportunity to taste wines from 

everywhere. As the land of fine dining, it also boosted 

his appetite for good food – the two are inseparable. 

He returned to his native region in 2001 and now farms 

67 different vineyard plots! This extreme fragmentation, 

which typifies small Champagne companies, has put a 

curb on one of his ambitions, and that is to go organic. 

He is convinced that this type of wine – particularly 

biodynamic – has greater depth. In Verzenay, he says 

he was the first to take a more hands-off approach to 

plant protection products. And his vineyards, where he 

now uses grass cover, have made progress, he explains. 

From a flavour perspective, he wants to “go further than 

his father”, or does he? His father was the village’s “latestarter”, 

still working with barrels. But today, Stéphane also 

uses casks made from oak sourced on the ‘Montagne’. He 

has improved vineyard selections, uses massal selections 

and wild ferments and does not filter or fine his wines... 

He produces Extra Brut and Brut Nature Champagnes and 

as he likes to say: “I am a non-interventionist. My family 

has lived on this land for 5 to 6 centuries”. 

The wood for the barrels comes from Verzenay forest 

itself 

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT - ALL CHANGE 

Florian and Cindy, aged 28 and 27 respectively, are the 

fifth generation to make Sadi Malot Champagne. Although 

they are in the process of transitioning from the previous 

generation, they have some very fixed ideas for the future. 

Franck, Florian’s father, stopped using herbicides in 2004 

and ploughed every other row. Organic farming therefore 

seemed like the logical next step. In Villers-Marmery, 

where they are located, the older winegrowers don’t 

understand, others are considering it, but they are the 

only ones to have taken the plunge. They started in 2018. 

Cindy and Florian Malot fill a barrel 


CHAMPAGNE 


Florian Malot 

Cindy Malot 

The wine must come from land that has not seen chemical 

treatments for 3 years, but it takes much longer than that in 

Champagne to secure certification – the reserve wines added 

to the non-vintage wines must also be certified organic. 

The estate’s current clientele is made up of loyal customers, 

and three quarters of the wines are sold at the cellar door. 

Organic certification should also open up export markets 

and allow them to tap into high-end restaurants. 

Another innovation introduced by their father but which has 

captured their imagination is the use of egg-shaped concrete 

tanks to ferment the wines. The egg shape puts sediment 

back into suspension during fermentation, changing the 

aromas. The Pinot noir feels rounder and more powerful 

whilst the Chardonnay is bursting with tension and white 

fruit. Since 2019, they have been maturing single vineyard 

wines in barrels, and will soon have a solera system up and 

running. In the long term, they may even introduce Merino 

sheep to keep the grass down in winter and avoid wasting 

fuel. And they could use photovoltaic energy to power 

their temperature-control equipment. The young couple is 

certainly not short of ideas. 


CHAMPAGNE 


MADAME RAYMONDE - 

CHAMPAGNE HACKERS 

Sophie and Mathieu Michel are brother and sister. Their 

ancestors were farmers in Vitry-en-Perthois and also 

produced milk. But in the 1970s, when the Champagne 

appellation area was extended to this region located at 

its south-easternmost tip, it naturally marked the end 

of mixed farming. The Côteaux-Vitryats vineyard, which 

is not over-farmed and is planted on the mid-slope on 

chalk-marl soils where there is always a slight breeze, has 

a potential that had already been identified in the Middle 

Ages. Chardonnay, the majority grape variety here, takes 

on typical flavours of pineapple and white fruit. 

The naturally ebullient, off-beat Sophie studied hydrological 

engineering, but admits that her career path has been 

‘fanciful’ – including street theatre – and that she “doesn’t 

just drink water”. Her brother grows their grapes over 4.5 

hectares, and works at the small local co-operative winery. 

Both of them dreamed of creating a brand. Champagne 

is classically associated with luxury and seriousness. They 

wanted something that mirrored their personalities. In 

2017, their idea took shape. They figured that if their 

region was an outsider, they’d need to think like outsiders! 

Their brand, ‘Madame Raymonde’, pays tribute to their 

grandmother who was a smallholder and although “not 

from the glitzy world of Champagne, was a great lady”. 

The name is a way of thumbing their nose, in the nicest 

possible way, at the great bourgeois ladies who fly the flag 

of the traditional Champagne Houses. The ostrich, chosen 

as an exotic emblem, but one that has its head firmly 

in the ground, rounds off the message. The Champagne 

is essentially a Blanc de Blancs with 7g/l dosage. They 

are starting off gradually, with 3,000 bottles, but their 

personalities will likely take them far! 

Sophie Michel duelling with secateurs before the harvest 

CHAMPAGNE J.A. DAUTEL - THE REBOOT 

Although Julien Dautel comes from a family that has 

been growing wine for seven generations on a large family 

estate, he went off in search of freedom. In 2019, he 

recovered a few vineyard plots and some bottles he had set 

aside to get started. He and his wife now farm 3.5 hectares 

in the Côte des Bar. “In Champagne you need at least 2 

hectares to make wine. We are not big, but we do have 12 

separate plots”. 

Their location was established in the 13 th century and was 

Julien Dautel savouring his Champagne 


Vineyards surrounding Verzenay windmill 

Stéphane Vignon, a disciple 

of Escoffier 

Leaving grass cover in every other row at Champagne Vignon 

Père & fils 

Verzenay lighthouse, a publicity stunt in 1909 

Fermenters that create convection currents at Champagne 

Sadi Malot 

Between the rows of vines at Maison 

Sadi Malot in the spring 

Mathieu Michel at Champagne Mme Raymonde 

Côteaux-Vitryats 

The ostrich is the mascot for Champagne Mme Raymonde 

Alain Vesselle Champagne’s sloping vineyards Bottles are kept for at least 6 

years at Champagne Virginie T 

The tasting room overlooking 

the vineyards at Champagne 

G Tribaut

CHAMPAGNE 


where the Cistercian monks from Molesmes Abbey came 

to eat. From this, they have created a brand: La Pitancerie. 

As a reminder, a ‘pitance’ is the medieval term for the food 

ration required for a day. So why the decision to start up 

on their own? To work the land, farm the vineyards and 

make their own Champagne, but also to sell it, explains 

Julien. The 40-year-old and his wife decided to take a 

family gamble, one that also includes their children. The 

vineyard is being renewed with new plantings, mostly 

Pinot noir but also Pinot blanc. “We mustn’t make the 

same mistakes that were made 30 years ago!” The weather 

was equable in 2020 and very few inputs were needed. 

Julien has an annual growth plan of 20%, and intends to 

eventually switch to biodynamics. A former chef, he sells 

through a network of contacts in the hospitality industry 

and overseas, and is unable to keep up with demand for 

his Extra Brut, Brut and zero dosage Champagnes. “You 

don’t have to sit down to drink a glass, nor is food a 

necessity!” claims Julien. 

Jules and Alex Dautel: the namesake estate has also 

been created for them 

CHAMPAGNE VIRGINIE T - 

STARTING UP AS A NEGOCIANT 

Virginie and her son Ferdinand have a double Champagne 

ancestry – they come from the Taittinger family (hence 

the ‘T’ in their brand), and from the family that owned 

Piper-Heidsieck for over a century. In 2008, the twosome 

decided to take the plunge and applied for a negociant 

or wholesaler’s licence. Although they own a few plots 

of land in Verzy and Mailly, they mostly buy grapes from 

winegrowers and make their own Champagnes. 

Their winery is in Sillery, on the Montagne de Reims, 

where they make 21 different blends. Mother and son 

are in charge. “We have a very different palate”, explains 

Ferdinand. «Mum, who worked for Taittinger for 25 years, 

where Chardonnay is king, developed a taste for Pinot 

noir as a reaction to this. Pinot noir is rich, powerful 

and indulgent. I prefer the minerality and finesse of 

Chardonnay. In 2014 we made our first Blanc de Blancs”. 

The nuance is a good match for the different generations 

of customers, who range in age from 40 to 70, says 

Ferdinand. But they both enjoy Champagnes showing 

brioche notes. All their wines are at least 6 years old so that 

they develop these aromas through autolysis in the bottle. 

They have around 350,000 bottles in stock. Sales started 

in a growing family circle, but then they gradually reached 

Virginie and Ferdinand Pougatch-Taittinger 


CHAMPAGNE 


out to trade customers such as Ladurée macaroons and the 

Bar Council. Internet sales are also growing. But with just 

four of them in the company, they cannot be everywhere 

at once. “It’s not always easy to work with your family!” 

admits 29-year-old Ferdinand. But combining agricultural, 

industrial and marketing activities in one job makes it 

fulfilling. And he has no doubt that his new-born child 

will one day join the company. 

The 2020 harvest of Champagne Virginie T 

Christian Tribaut – Ghislain Tribaut – Marie-Jo Tribaut – Vincent Tribaut – 

Valérie Tribaut – Gauthier Coudrain-Tribaut 

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT - 

SHARED RESPONSIBILITIES 

For the Tribaut family in Hautvillers, Champagne is also 

a family affair, explains Gauthier. His great-grandfather, 

Gaston, went independent in 1976 with a press, tanks and 

a cellar. And although the parents currently manage the 

company, the grandparents (Ghislain) are still around. 

Gauthier is in charge of the winery, a cousin comes to help 

at weekends, and another cousin – aptly named Gael – 

also helps out. With all these ‘Gs’ there’s no need to change 

the brand name! 

Here, nobody keeps count of the time, it’s all about 

passion. Of course, Champagne is the focal point, right 

through to the family meal, but from an organisation 

perspective, it makes life easier. As owners of their own 

business, they all engage with each other. And because 

they are versatile, they can swap roles. They have also 

noticed that styles and tastes are changing. Medium-dry 

wines and rosés are being superseded by wines with more 

Chardonnay and minerality. There is a growing trend 

towards drinking wine as an aperitif. The customers that 

come and taste at the winery are prepared to pay more, but 

in return they expect excellence. 

Decisions are made collectively. Gauthier wanted to make a 

single varietal Meunier from old vines. Two were in favour, 

but four were not convinced. Conversely, temperaturecontrolled 

stainless steel tanks are increasingly replacing 

concrete or tiled vats. Environmental stewardship is 

becoming more and more important and grass cover is 

currently being rolled out in the vineyards. The 13 hectares 

spread over 51 plots are not easy to harvest, and the 

Tribauts do not want to rectify the must. So to ensure the 

fruit does not lack acidity, they are harvesting even earlier, 

due to climate change. The only question left unanswered 

is who will take over the company. The Tribaut jury is still 

out on that one! 


CHAMPAGNE 


CHAMPAGNE ALAIN VESSELLE - 

NEW GENERATION 

Not far from here, in Bouzy, 30-year-old Guillaume 

has taken over the family company. The eldest of 

three boys, he has been riding a tractor and working 

in the winery since he was child... sometimes doing 

dangerous work. He attended agricultural college, 

passed his vocational baccalaureat and worked for a 

neighbouring negociant in Verzenay. His career path 

was clearly mapped out. 

Whilst working for the negociant, Guillaume realised 

the significance of the environment, and is currently 

working towards HVE certification. But the property’s 

18 hectares of vines are not all identical. In the 

9-hectare vineyard in Bouzy, the company’s home, 

natural protection against frost makes life easier. 

Machine tillage removes the need for weed killers. 

However, for the other 9 sloping hectares of vines, 

Guillaume covers the ground with wood shavings to 

prevent plants from growing. 

The style of Champagne is evolving. “There were too 

many varietal blends”, he says. He has introduced a 

Blanc de Blancs, a Blanc de Noirs, and a range called 

‘Les intrépides’, as a nod to the siblings’ nickname. The 

duration of bottle fermentation has also been reduced 

from 6-7 years to 2-3 years, to retain freshness. But 

the non-vintage Brut remains unchanged, of course. 

In fact, it appeals to regular customers. The Alain 

Vesselle brand name, to which customers are attached, 

will remain. Guillaume’s grandfather, who was also a 

farmer, deserves respect. He planted 9,090 vines per 

hectare, he points out. Guillaume works with one of 

his brothers, whilst the other is currently running an 

estate in the Saumur region. There is no doubt that 

bubbles were their calling! 

The Vesselle brothers 

GOING DOWN IN CHAMPAGNE HISTORY 

Irrespective of age, all these producers have chosen 

entrepreneurship and are probably driven more by 

their heart than by reason. Ultimately, though, isn’t 

passion one of life’s most effective motivations? 

Sparkling wines have been made in Champagne for 

over three centuries, and these particular producers 

want to be a part of its future. 

Bouzy in the summertime 


Nicely ripe Merlot at Vignobles Dulon 

BORDEAUX 

– GRAPES – 

Has the death knell sounded 

for Bordeaux Merlot? 

The question might seem provocative for a grape variety that originated 

in the region and is an icon of its Grands Crus. 

In 2019, it accounted for 66% of Bordeaux’s vineyard acreage. 

Despite this, climate change is putting it through its paces. We asked winegrowers 

and winemakers whether they are still planting Merlot. 

By Charlie Elaina – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 


BORDEAUX 


Consultant winemaker Antoine Médeville 

Antoine Médeville is a renowned Bordeaux 

winemaker who has worked for many estates, 

not only in Saint-Émilion and Graves, but 

also in Spain and Italy. He has now joined 

Oenoconseil, a group of four laboratories, 

where he established the Pauillac department. 

He explains that although Merlot has been harvested earlier 

for the last twenty years, this should be put into perspective 

- it is only a few days earlier. With the exception of very 

specific vintages, such as 2003 and 2020, the variety is usually 

harvested between 15 and 20 September. 

Admittedly, sugar content is high and chaptalisation no longer 

necessary. Some yeasts can push alcohol content up to 16%, so 

they need to be carefully selected to produce less, with around 

18 g of sugar per degree, to try and rein in alcohol levels. The 

pH, which used to be around 3.6, is now more frequently 3.8 


BORDEAUX 


The Oenoconseil team tasting wines 

or 3.9. Lower acidity makes for a more easy drinking flavour, 

and adds to fatness and roundness. The wines, however, have 

lower ageing potential, whilst the tannins seem finer. Médeville 

has rarely seen producers in the region rectify their wines using 

tartaric acid, as can occur in warmer regions. 

He insists on steps that need to be taken in the vineyard. A 

later-ripening rootstock is required and green harvesting and 

leaf removal need to be reduced. If it is very hot during the 

day, the time of picking can have an impact on the fruitiness 

and oxidation of the grapes. For Grands Crus where the fruit 

is picked by hand, the inability to harvest before sunrise is 

sometimes an issue. Dry ice on the grapes can keep them cool 

until they reach the winery. Cold pre-fermentation soaking is 

becoming more common, and fermentation temperatures need 

to be properly controlled. Refrigerated tanks have become the 

norm across the region. 

When Merlot is too ripe, it produces wines with candied fruit 

aromas, but you can already taste this in the grapes themselves, 

points out Médeville. About ten years ago, over-ripeness was 

aimed for deliberately – the wines had to be more concentrated, 

and richer, à la Robert Parker and garage wines. In previous 


BORDEAUX 


The Dulon family has been growing grapes since 1737 

decades, the fruit was picked too early, for fear of rain, and then 

had to be chaptalised! So fashions are changing. 

Médeville feels that the wines tend to be more balanced 

nowadays. “Merlot is still very good”. And, as he points out 

impishly, with the Trump tax on French wines below 14% 

(temporarily suspended, but who knows what the Biden 

administration will ultimately decide to do?), try and get every 

tank of Cabernet-Sauvignon to come in at over 14%! Merlot 

came in very handy. Médeville does not anticipate the demise 

of Merlot, and even knows of some estates still putting it in 

the ground. 

VIGNOBLES DULON: MERLOT STILL THE MAJORITY 

GRAPE, BUT SET TO DECLINE 

The Dulon family, whose roots are in Soulignac in the Entre- 

Deux-Mers region, has been farming vineyards since 1737. 

Château Grandjean has one hundred hectares under vine, 

divided between approximately 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet- 

Sauvignon or other grape varieties. The wines are labelled 

Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. The family owns another 

fifty or so hectares split between Château Julian and Château 


BORDEAUX 


Sophie (left) and Carole (right) Dulon 

du Vallier, and they also market the Saint-Émilion Grand 

Cru Château Haut-Pezat. 

The family’s two daughters, who have just turned thirty, 

began taking over from their parents in 2012. Sophie is 

in charge of sales and Carole of the production side. “All 

grape varieties - not just Merlot – are showing higher 

alcohol content”, says Carole. The grapes are sweeter, 

but they are also more tannic, making the wines more 

powerful. “The difference is that we now remove fewer 

leaves than in the past, because summers can be very 

hot”. There is a fear of ‘sunburn’, a point during the 

summer when it is very hot and water resources are 

lacking. The consequences can be instant: the grapes 

burn and the winegrower loses volume, which is what 

occurred in 2020. Yields that used to reach 70 hl/ha 

effortlessly have now dropped to around 50 to 55 hl. 

Such extreme events can lead vines to completely shut 

down, despite the fact that the rootstocks currently used 

have been chosen to resist water stress better than those 

available to the previous generation. 

Harvesting is done by machine so that the grapes can 

be brought in quickly and usually in October, after the 

summer heat has passed. At the beginning of the harvest, 

before yeast has filled the cellar, the grapes undergo 

cold skin-contact maceration, followed by fermentation. 

The pH levels remain balanced and Carole is not in 

favour of rectification – generally speaking, she prefers 

to limit inputs to a minimum. Here, no more Merlot is 

being planted and a clear interest is being shown in new 

varieties. Trials with hybrid grapes by their neighbours 

seem to be working. “The percentage of Merlot will 

inexorably decline”, says Carole. This is not only due to 

climate change, but also in response to a trend towards 

reducing the use of plant protection products; some grape 

varieties require fewer sprays than Merlot. So it’s a double 

whammy for Merlot! 

The Dulon vineyards 

ALTERVINI: MERLOT, A SENSITIVE ISSUE 

Altervini sells 4 million euros worth of wines produced 

by winegrowers, 95% of whom are from Bordeaux. “We 

are the sales representatives for these properties”, is how 

Mickaël Violleau, the company’s associate managing 

director, likes to describe the company. Violleau feels the 


BORDEAUX 


future of Merlot is an issue of paramount importance. As 

he points out, Bordeaux has a very high quality image 

and one for age-worthy wines. Merlot is the signature 

grape for this style of wine. Climate change poses a 

threat to quality. Violleau is of the opinion that a very 

early harvest, for example in August to avoid excess 

sugar, would cause another problem. High temperatures 

in mid-summer would produce wines lacking freshness, 

and therefore balance. The winemaking process would 

then have to be altered, and inevitably the style of the 

wines would undergo a sea-change. 

Violleau believes that changing the blends is a more 

sensible route. Changes to specifications could allow this 

to happen, by increasing the proportion of Cabernet- 

Sauvignon for example. If this is done gradually, the 

style of the wines should not be undermined. The idea is 

for the changes to occur concurrently with generational 

turnover among consumers. Petit Verdot is also an 

interesting alternative, but only for winegrowers who 

prove to be very proficient at growing the variety. Another 

lever, of course, would be to slow down Merlot’s growing 

cycle as much as possible. As a reminder, Violleau 

says the Bordeaux wine marketing council (CIVB) has 

commissioned several studies, mostly with funding from 

the European Union. 

As regards water, he believes that the Aquitaine region 

has good rainfall. Any shortfalls are only occasional, 

so he feels that introducing irrigation would be the 

antithesis of Bordeaux. “Bordeaux is an exceptional 

brand name. The wines must remain age-worthy, and we 

must continue to move upmarket”, he claims. 

Mickaël Violleau of Altervini 

FAMILLE DUCOURT: 

REPLACING MERLOT SEAMLESSLY 

The Ducourt family manages 450 hectares of vines 

divided between 14 properties, which produce 6 Bordeaux 

appellations. They are spread across Entre-Deux-Mers, on 

the right bank, with one in southern Graves. Jonathan 

Ducourt is tasked with marketing and communications. 

52% of the family’s acreage is planted to Merlot, but the 

variety is no longer being replanted. The Saint-Émilion 

property has a single 5-hectare plot, entirely planted to 

Merlot. Here, the vines are only about fifteen years old, 

Jonathan Ducourt 


BORDEAUX 


Merlot also produces fruity rosés, 

here at Vignobles Ducourt 

so removing them is not an option. But as Ducourt says, 

“14 or 14.5% alcohol is acceptable for a Saint-Émilion. It 

is part of the image of this powerful wine. Also, in many 

countries, high alcohol content is well received. In China 

and South-East Asia, it is even a guarantee of quality!” 

The issue is more sensitive for the satellite appellations 

(Montage Saint-Émilion) or for Castillon. Here, balance 

is trickier to achieve. The skin needs to ripen before 

harvesting and consequently, the Merlot grapes are 

loaded with sugar and acidity drops, and in this instance 

Merlot is gradually being replaced by Cabernet Franc and 

Petit Verdot. This is not an issue for Merlot designed for 

rosé, because the fruit can be harvested earlier, when it 

is still fresh. At 37, Ducourt doesn’t think he will see the 

end of Merlot in Bordeaux. There will at least be some left 

in the coolest sites, he feels, and more foliage can be kept 

to protect the grapes from the sun. Eight years ago, the 

family replaced 13 hectares of Merlot with hybrids, but it 

wasn’t about alcohol content. It was mainly to see how 

the vines perform when inputs are significantly reduced, 

and their experience is positive. 

CHÂTEAU DES LANDES: 

KEEPING MERLOT, AND GOING ORGANIC 

This 32-hectare chateau is located in the Lussac-Saint- 

Émilion appellation area. Nicolas Lassagne, the third 

generation of owners, explains that so far global warming 

has been relatively positive. “The deep clay soils retain 

water well so the vines do not suffer too much. Before, we 

used to remove leaves on both sides of the vine rows, to 

free up the clusters. Now, we keep the leaves on one side. 

Perhaps we won’t remove any leaves at all in the future”. 

Lassagne has noticed that harvesting takes place a week 

earlier on average. Last year, it started on 20 September, 

and Merlot is the first of the red grape varieties to be 

picked. The chateau has its own harvesting machine, and 

can therefore decide exactly when to harvest. Timing is 

important, because whilst the grapes are perfect at the 

beginning of the harvest, those picked in the last week 

may be a little low in acidity. For the past three years, 

he has completely foregone the use of insecticides, and 

uses no herbicides on half of the estate. The switch-over 

to organic is underway. His customers have expressed 


BORDEAUX 


Nicolas Lassagne of Château des Landes 

demand for organic, which justifies a loss of about 10% 

in yield. 

At mid-career, the 40-year-old winegrower can see only 

one solution for the future of Merlot, and that is to pick 

earlier. “That’s what the organic estates do, and even 

more so those who farm biodynamically, because they 

can’t rectify acidity levels. You also have to use tillage to 

remove the grass that competes with the vines for access 

to water”. 

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR MERLOT? 

On the right bank, it would seem that the death knell has 

sounded for Merlot, which seems stuck on ‘death row’. 

Although the sentence has been pronounced, though, it 

seems to have been given a stay of execution for several 

more years. Perhaps the experience and genius of the 

Bordeaux wine industry will find a way of securing it an 

eleventh-hour reprieve… 


ALSACE 


Pinot noir shows 

its true colours 

Long the outsider and mainly used for rosé Crémant, Alsace Pinot noir is 

increasingly gaining traction. Accounting for 10% of vineyard acreage, the varietal 

is now the focus of winegrowing expertise and is being cropped at reasonable 

yields. Treated this way, it demonstrates remarkable quality, taking it a step closer 

to its iconic Burgundy cousin. 

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 

50 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

A Pinot noir vineyard in the Frankstein Grand Cru

ALSACE 


In Alsace, the wine route is an essential destination 

for all art, monument and wine enthusiasts. The 

flower-bedecked timber-framed houses offer picturepostcard 

settings and add a beautiful touch to villages 

surrounded by vineyard-clad hillsides. White wines, 

made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot blanc 

– which between them account for 60% of production 

– have long been the region’s pride and joy. But the 

appellation also produces remarkable red and rosé wines 

from Pinot noir, with its dark red or even black skin and 

white flesh. Ubiquitous in its native region of Burgundy, 

the variety is one of the world’s most planted wine grapes. 

Cropped at reasonable yields and reined in by proficient 

winemakers, Pinot noir is used to produce wines showing 

aromas of ripe red fruit, underpinned by a fairly light 

structure, with subtle freshness and delicate tannins. 

Along our Alsace red wine route, we chose some iconic 

examples of what Pinot noir can achieve. 

Thiébaud, Dominique and Julien Frey 

MAISON CHARLES FREY: 

PIONEERING ORGANIC WINE 

Originally from Switzerland, the Frey family moved to a 

1.5-hectare vineyard in Dambach-la-Ville at the beginning 

of the 18 th century. At that time, the vines were farmed 

using the family’s animals and the crop was sold directly 

to a wholesaler after being pressed. In 1958, Charles 

Frey decided to produce his own wines. In 1997, his son 

Dominique converted the entire estate to organic and 

biodynamic, making it one of the pioneers in Alsace. The 

next generation – his son Julien – arrived in 2003, soon 

joined by his brother Thiébaud, to run 20 hectares of vines 

where the Pinot noir grapes command respect. “We want 

to keep the purity and expression of a grape variety which, 

when farmed at moderate yields, offers extreme finesse”, 

explains Thiébaud Frey. “We market three different styles. 

Harmonie, which is more fruit-driven and accessible, is 

the classic range. Quintessence is distinctive because of 

its ageing whilst Cuvée F, from the Frankstein Grand Cru 

is positioned like a terroir-driven white and designed for 

fine foods”. 

DOMAINE WACH: ARTISAN WINEGROWERS 

Domaine Wach combines the work of a craftsman with that 

of a winegrower, honouring both excellence and tradition. 

In 1748, the Wach family entered the world of wine, 

The winery at Domaine Wach 


ALSACE 


Pierre Wach and his sommelier partner, 

Jessica Ouellet, who has been working on the 

estate for two years 

first as artisan coopers, then as winegrowers. A staunch 

advocate of quality wines, Pierre Wach uses cuttingedge 

winemaking technology to maximise extraction of 

flavour from the different grape varieties grown in his 

8-hectare vineyard, part of which is classified as Grand 

Cru. After six years of trials, Wach has introduced a 

technique for extraction and maceration using intense 

cold that preserves the riper and more evolved aromas 

from each vintage. “Alsace Pinot noir should not compare 

itself or even try to resemble its Burgundy counterpart”, 

he claims. “It is a grape variety in its own right. It has 

long been grown in Alsace, and as such, it has its own 

personality – it is fruit-forward with very supple tannins 

and an intense ruby colour”. The estate produces a range 

of wines, but just a single label of Pinot noir. With its 

razor-sharp design, Spleen is positioned midway between 

the terroir-driven wines and the Grands Crus. “Over the 

past two years, we have worked to improve the fruit 

through extremely rigorous selection as soon as the vines 

flower. This is producing good results”, says Wach. “Over 

the next few years, I want this label to rank at the top of 

the estate’s range”. 

The two partners, Franck Bléger and his cousin Sébastien Huber 

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER: 

UNIQUE PERSONALITY 

This remarkable 30-hectare family estate, run by Sébastien 

Huber and his cousin Franck Bléger, is blessed with soils 

that have geological subtleties imbuing the Pinot noir 

grapes with specific aromas and a unique personality. 

The soils are primarily granite and instil the wines with 

minerality, freshness and finesse. Since 2014, a standalone, 

village-designated appellation – Saint-Hippolyte 

Rouge – has recognised the specific features of the soils. 

“The Pinot noir grapes flourish here, producing wines 

that express all the red fruits, with no heaviness but rather 

finesse and elegance”, says Bléger. “The complexity of 

the wines stems from the spicy finish which mirrors the 

granite”. In addition to an Alsace rosé, the estate markets 

three red wines made from the same grape variety: the light 

and fruity Pinot Noir; Saint-Hippolyte Rouge, which is 

more concentrated with red fruit aromas and a spicy finish; 

and the characterful, oak-aged Saint-Hippolyte Rouge with 

oaky notes that emphasise the fruit. “The appeal of these 

wines is growing”, says Huber. “They pique the curiosity 

of our customers and are some of the winery’s best-selling 


ALSACE 


The team at Huber & Bléger 

wines”. Exuding charming nose aromas of red fruits, they fully 

encapsulate the character of Pinot noir and the complexity of a 

specific vineyard site. On the palate, the silky, restrained tannin 

presence adds to overall balance and harmony. 

WUNSCH & MANN: A STAPLE 

Wunsch & Mann has been producing Alsace wines from the best 

hillside sites since 1793, epitomising family traditions and a 

genuine love of winegrowing. Certified organic since 2011, the 

estate thrives by focusing on site-expressiveness in each vintage and 

preserving the inherent flavour of the grape variety. “Pinot noir is a 

multi-tasker”, stresses Maxime Mann. “It can be used in many ways, 

both for sparkling and still wines. Twenty years ago, growers turned 

their backs on it, but it has become a major feature of the vineyards 

of Alsace thanks to its multiple facets which allow every grower to 

find their own style”. The range includes 7 different styles of Pinot 

noir, from the most simple, pleasurable fruit-forward offerings to 

the most complex fleshy, robust examples from the Hengst Grand 

Cru. From maceration through to maturation, each wine is made 

differently. The charming, satisfying Pinot noir Tradition is the 

most popular. Equus is a selection from vineyards in the Hengst 


Dominique Frey 

The Frankstein Grand Cru overlooking 

Dambach-la-Ville 

The entrance to Domaine Wach 

Domaine Huber & Bléger 

in Saint-Hippolyte 

Maturing 

Saint-Hippolyte 

Rouge in 

oak casks 

Franck Bléger tasting 

a Saint-Hippolyte Rouge 

Anne-Cécile Carrer of Domaine 

Schmitt & Carrer 

Domaine Schmitt & Carrer 

Maxime Mann 

tastes a Pinot noir 

matured in concrete 

tanks 

Pruning vines at Domaines 

Schlumberger 

Two sheep surrounded by vines at 

Domaines Schlumberger 

Patrick Rentz in his cellars at 

Domaine Edmond Rentz 

Harvesting at Domaine 

Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur

ALSACE 


Grand Cru, where the marl and limestone soils add length 

and power. Displaying a strong personality, it is a highly 

sought-after wine. 

DOMAINE SCHMITT & CARRER: 

DENSE, CONCENTRATED PINOT NOIR 

Sylvie and Roland Carrer, together with their daughter 

Anne-Cécile, manage this beautiful 15-hectare family 

estate. Certified organic in 2004, the estate mirrors a desire 

in 1985 by Roger Schmitt and his son-in-law Roland 

Carrer to create one of Alsace’s flagship vineyards. “We 

make our wines using very few inputs in a bid to preserve 

the inherent characters of the grape varieties and vineyard 

sites”, explains Anne-Cécile Carrer. “We approach Alsace 

Pinot noir as a full-fledged red wine. It is often considered 

as a light red, but we try to counter this stereotype by 

producing dense, concentrated wines”. The estate harvests 

the fruit slightly over-ripe to guarantee the alcoholic and 

aromatic potential that forms the backbone of red wines. 

A one-year stint in French oak barrels is added for the oldvine 

wines. Pinot noir is now on the estate’s roster of bestselling 

wines, along with Riesling and Gewurztraminer. “It 

is a variety that we vint with particular care”, says Roland 

Carrer, “just like our whites, obviously. With each harvest, 

we strive to improve our process. Consumers are generally 

looking either for Pinot noirs that are fruity and easy 

drinking with good concentration, or denser, richer wines”. 

Maxime Mann near a wooden tun used exclusively 

for the Hengst Pinot noir with its delicate oakiness 

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER: 

INCREDIBLE BENCHMARKS 

A few kilometres from the Grand Ballon, which, at 

1,423 metres, stands as the highest peak in the Vosges, 

Domaines Schlumberger’s vineyards extend over soils 

with an outstanding geological heritage. Established by 

Nicolas Schlumberger in 1810, this Alsace benchmark has 

successfully produced magnificent wines down through the 

generations. Grown entirely on limestone soils conducive 

to this type of grape variety, Pinot noir captivates the 

senses with its minerality and remarkable balance which 

promotes ageability. “Our aim is to produce Pinot noirs 

that retain the character of Alsace with characteristic 

notes of red fruit, weight and structure”, explains Séverine 

Schlumberger. “The wines are much better structured 

than twenty years ago and can be enjoyed at room 

temperature”. High standards require short pruning and 

Anne-Cécile Carrer and her father Roland at Domaine Schmitt & Carrer 


ALSACE 


disbudding to reduce yields. The result is quite simply 

striking, with the ‘Les Princes Abbés’ label at entry-level 

combining structure, minerality and length. Sourced from 

the finest plot in Le Bollenberg, fruit for the Stein label 

is harvested in crates and meticulously sorted before the 

wines are put in new wood casks to bolster structure and 

body. “Pinot noir is not a trivial part of our range”, says 

Schlumberger. “In fact, we were already putting the variety 

in the ground in the 2000s. It is becoming increasingly 

successful and popular in export markets”. 

Thomas and Séverine Schlumberger 

DOMAINE LÉON HEITZMANN & CLÉMENT 

KLUR: RESPECT FOR THE LAND 

The Heitzmann family has been growing wine in 

Ammerschwihr for 7 generations. With a focus on 

excellence, this family-owned, committed winery is 

certified organic and biodynamic. Here, tradition and 

modernity are not mutually exclusive and both shape its 

approach to meticulous vineyard management, the result 

of which can be found in the glass. “We are very attached 

to showing respect for the land, the environment and 

the men (and women) who farm it”, explains Laurence 

Heitzmann. “We are mindful to follow the natural cycles 

in the vineyard, but also in the winery by taking a handsoff 

approach to use of sulphites wherever possible”. Pinot 

noir offers a perfect rendition of site-expressiveness and 

although it only accounts for 8% of sales, it continues to 

grow. “Pinot noir is one of our favourite grape varieties”, 

says Heitzmann. “Long before it became fashionable, we 

made it our mission to produce stellar, barrel-aged wines. 

It is a magnificent selling point, which has become a firm 

favourite. I use it to surprise my customers and encourage 

them to expect the unexpected”. 

Laurence Heitzmann of Domaine Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur 

DOMAINE EDMOND RENTZ: 

DRIVEN BY HIGH STANDARDS 

Established in Zellenberg in 1785 by Thomas Rentz, this 

family estate was given a new lease of life in 1920 with 

Edmond Rentz at its helm. Rentz expanded vineyard 

acreage and set remarkably high standards. After pioneering 

bottling in 1930, he decided to customise his wines by 

displaying his name on each bottle. Catherine Rentz and 

her brother Patrick have run the estate since 1995 and 

have developed winegrowing techniques that show respect 

for the soils, the vines and the environment, fuelled by 


ALSACE 


Catherine Rentz and her brother Patrick at Domaine Edmond Rentz 

an unrelenting quest for quality, typicity and authenticity. “We have 

several Pinot noir stocks from different massal selections, some of 

them originating in Burgundy”, explains Patrick Rentz. “Demand is 

on the rise and customers are drawn to the quality of our wines”. Pinot 

noir, which always leaves an impression, requires a meticulous and 

unfailing approach to vineyard management and winemaking. “It is 

one of the most challenging red grape varieties to vint, as it has less 

colour than other red grape varieties but a strong tannin structure”, 

explains Catherine Rentz. “Proficiency in barrel maturation is of the 

essence to bring out the fruitiness of the grape variety, the complexity 

of the vineyard site and the oakiness of the barrel. Global warming 

has become an ally of Pinot noir. In the future, we intend to put more 

Pinot noir in the ground to meet demand and to continue to raise 

our winemaking standards so that our clientele is wholeheartedly 

satisfied with our wines”. 

PINOT NOIR IS BENEFITING FROM CURRENT WEATHER 

PATTERNS 

France’s most northerly wine region, after Champagne, is demonstrating 

the incredible versatility and unique character of Pinot noir grown in 

ideal sites and weather conditions. Global warming, particularly in the 

weeks leading up to harvest, has promoted greater ripeness in Pinot 

noir, which was previously restricted to the odd Alsace microclimate. 

Admittedly, consumers may be taken aback to find Pinot noir in 

a region renowned for its white wines and Crémants. But with its 

remarkable value for money, Alsace Pinot noir is attracting a growing 

following among enthusiasts who enjoy a style of red wine with very 

accessible flavours that can be savoured as an aperitif or with food. 


Julie Ay at the Mazy distillery 

FRUIT BRANDIES 

– FRENCH EXPERTISE – 

Artisanal fruit brandies 

Quintessential French craftsmanship 

The spirits industry is increasingly cornered by industrially-produced liquors, very 

often imported. The French drink 140 million bottles of whisky a year, but just 2 or 

3 of fruit brandy. And yet, there was a time when almost every farmer was a home 

distiller. France still has some top quality artisanal distilleries producing gourmetstyle 

products for consumers in the know. 

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 




The Metté distillery uses 3 small copper stills 

Creating alcohol through fermentation dates back 

thousands of years – 8,000 years for wine, 9,000 for 

beer – but it only produces a few degrees of alcohol. 

Distillation, on the other hand, is much more recent. In 

France, noteworthy contributors to the technique were 

Arnaud de Villeneuve (1238-1311) and his student, 

Raymond de Lulle, at Montpellier university. By heating a lowalcohol, 

water-based liquid, the water – which obviously becomes 

a gas at 100°C – can be separated due to the fact that ethanol and 

many molecules evaporate above 79°C. 

The theory might look simple, but in practice, distillation is anything 

but due to the numerous factors involved. When it comes to 

alcohol, however, human imagination knows no bounds, and the 

technique has been elevated to an art form. Countless types of stills 

were invented with processes that sometimes required multiple 

distillations in series. Once the distillate is obtained, alcohol content 

can be so high that it is unacceptable to the human palate, even the 

most seasoned… So it has to be brought down by adding pure water. 

Legally, and often for tax purposes, alcohol content has to range from 

37 to 45% ABV, but there are some spirits which retain more or less 

their original strength, ranging from 60 to 75%. Brandies can also be 

matured, a phase where they undergo controlled oxidation. And as 

historically, the containers they were matured in were wood, this also 

contributes to aromatics. Lastly, different spirits can also be blended 

for improved complexity. 




Harvesting cherries at the Hagmeyers 

DISTILLING WHAT IS AVAILABLE 

In France, wine production provided the inspiration for two 

types of spirit. By pressing the grapes, the skins and the pips 

are separated from the juice. At the time, this was done by 

foot and produced a kind of ‘cake’ that was solid yet moist 

– the pomace, or ‘marc’ in French that stems from ‘marcher’ 

or walk – and could then be distilled. By extension, the 

resultant spirit is called ‘marc’ or pomace brandy. Some 

people claim that grape pomace produced by making white 

wines is superior in quality because the lengthy soaking 

required to make red wine removes many of the aromatic 

compounds. The pressed grape juice is cloudy and the wine 

has to be clarified through settling. The lees, which fall to 

the bottom of the tank, can also be distilled and produce 

‘fines’. Cognac and Armagnac are produced from the 

leftover ‘burnt wine’, but every wine region has a distilling 

tradition. We have selected a Burgundy micro-distillery and 

two Alsace distilleries to illustrate that tradition. 

Incidentally, the continental climate in Alsace also makes it 

particularly suitable for growing plums, pears and cherries, 

for example – fruits which, when fully ripe, are full of sugar. 

That makes them potential candidates for fermenting them 

into a mash, then distilling them. A second distillation 

separates the desired aromas. The people of Alsace and 

Lorraine, who happen to be gourmet food lovers, have 

become masters in the art of producing spirits from all 

kinds of fruit. We spoke to an independent fruit grower and 

distiller, and a small but prestige distillery. 

Normandy and Brittany, where the weather is too cold 

and damp to grow vines, turned to apples and pears, using 

grafts that were brought from Spain in the 15 th century. The 

area of Domfront, in Normandy, has even specialised in 

pears. The fermented juice of all these fruits produces the 

refreshing drinks cider and perry. But of course, it was not 

long before the idea of distilling them emerged, leading 

to Normandy Calvados, which is subtly matured. A longstanding 

apple grower, cider maker and distiller reveals his 

techniques to us. 

Grape pomace at the Mazy distillery 

DISTILLERIE MAZY IN MARSANNAY-LA-CÔTE 

Julie Ay comes from a family of winegrowers in Gigondas, 

but her bio-chemistry studies initially pointed her in the 

direction of environmental management. As she reached 




thirty, she decided she wanted a more artisanal career – 

distilling. She taught herself by meeting other distillers 

in Cognac, Faugères and Alsace, then decided to become 

a practitioner herself in the Côte de Nuits. It is a little 

known fact that the right to become a mobile distiller can 

be applied for at the customs department, but it cannot be 

purchased. Julie Ay started up in 2016. 

Close proximity to world famous estates such as Domaine 

Armand Rousseau and Domaine Bruno Clair obviously 

provides access to excellent quality raw materials, and 

present-day winegrowers rarely distil themselves. But they 

have a legal obligation to properly dispose of their pomace 

and lees. Julie Ay offers to re-use them by making potable 

spirits, and the idea of stellar quality spirits appeals to 

winegrowers. She produces AOC Burgundy ‘marc’ and 

‘fine’ brandies along with fruit brandies and liqueurs. 

Traditionally, ‘fine’ brandy with aromas of wine is 

considered more delicate and is more popular – it also 

comes at a higher price, of €40 to €50 a bottle. Due to 

the fairly small amounts of lees, she blends them before 

distilling to produce Grand Cru or Côte de Nuits ‘fine’ 

brandies. 

The pomace brandies, with aromas more akin to raisins, sell 

for around €30 to €50 a bottle. Working alone and located 

in a predominantly red wine region, she only produces 

pomace brandies from Pinot noir. The pomace – or ‘gène’ 

as it is referred to in Burgundy – has to be extremely fresh, 

just one to three weeks old. It is then slightly re-wetted and 

distilled. Julie Ay then has enough raw materials to produce 

spirits by appellation. Have you ever tried a pomace brandy 

from Grand Cru Chambertin or Clos de Bèze? 

She distils at her home in the village of Marsannay, and 

it doesn’t go totally unnoticed. When distillation starts in 

October, cyclists riding through the village have no trouble 

noticing the lovely wafts that float in the air. 

Julie Ay 

DISTILLERIE HAGMEYER GROWS ITS OWN FRUIT 

In the Alsace village of Balbronn, people have been distilling 

since the turn of the 17 th century. Even thirty or so years 

ago, over 20 families were still distilling. At the Hagmeyers, 

Willy is in the process of passing his business on to his 

daughter Elsa. The Hagmeyers have 12 hectares of orchards, 

that are home to damsons, Mirabelle plums, Williams pears 

Willy and Elsa Hagmeyer 




The recommended glass for drinking brandy 

and even strawberries. And since September 2019, they 

have even planted some barley to start producing whisky! 

Most of the fruit they distil is home grown. They are also 

winegrowers – the Gewurtztraminer juice they produce goes 

to the co-operative and they distil the rest. 

The varieties of fruit are the same as the edible varieties, 

except for the cherries. The fruit needs to be in good 

condition and harvested at peak ripeness for its sugar, but 

acidity is a requisite so that the fruit ferments well and there 

are no bacterial issues. Visually appealing fruit, however, is 

not a must so there is no need to spray for scab, for example. 

The pears, where the ripeness window is very short-lived, 

are picked and ripen in storage. “Avoiding mushing pear 

flavours is essential”, points out Willy Hagmeyer. 

Yeast is added to the pureed fruit. Fermentation lasts for 2 

to 4 weeks. Pears with low sugar content produce 3% ABV, 

compared with 9% for plums and cherries. Distillation then 

starts immediately afterwards. Double distillation for the 

Mirabelle plums and the pears creates purer flavours but 

some fruits, like strawberries, are only suitable for single 

distillation. During the distilling process, it is essential to 

have a glass at hand, to smell, taste and make decisions 

there and then depending on the prevailing mood. As it 

exits the still, the spirit has an ABV of between 65 and 75%. 

It is cooled to -3°C to filter out the impurities and ensure 

its colour is brilliant and transparent. It is also blended with 

different vintages and ABV is brought down to around 45%. 

“Savour it at around 15°C in a tulip shape glass”, claim 

the Hagmeyers. When brandy is good, it does not burn the 

palate. Although it is often savoured at the end of a meal, 

a lot of food pairings are excellent. They include Mirabelle 

brandy with unpasteurised Camembert, pear brandy with 

duck breasts, flammekueche or munster cheese with kirsch 

(cherry)… 

A delivery of damsons, a variety of plums from Alsace 

METTÉ, THE ‘POPE OF BRANDIES’ 

Celebrated firm Jean-Paul Metté, taken over by Jean-Paul’s 

godson Philippe Traber and wife Nathalie, experienced 

another shock two years ago with the death of Philippe. 

Although Nathalie was approached by major companies, 

she finally decided to continue because their son Timothée 

returned to the family firm. 

They currently produce a staggering 120 brandies and 




Nathalie and her son Thimotée Traber now at the helm of the Metté distillery 

28 liqueurs, but they are still a treasure of artisanal 

distilling, producing an average 35,000 bottles. Here, all 

the raw materials are bought in – fruit from Alsace and the 

Rhone Valley for example, and wild berries from Romania 

and Hungary, because there is nobody to pick wild fruit 

any more in France. They do, however, collect some 

flowers themselves, like elderflower or pine buds. Quality 

is essential. “How can you ask a chef to cook good fish 

when it’s gone past its freshness”. It’s exactly the same for 

distilling. Everything arrives in small crates and is sorted a 

second time. 

The three copper stills are small, which makes quality 

control and cleaning easier. This is a fundamental aspect 

of the process. A pear, for example, contains pips and 

therefore oil, so the sides of the still can become fatty and 

a rancid smell can develop. Between heating, each still is 

therefore dismounted and cleaned. 

The alcohol content of the brandies is then brought down 

and the spirits are placed in stainless steel tanks in the 

courtyard with the lids placed on top to avoid dust entering 

them. For six years, they breathe, expand and contract with 

the seasons – in some ways like Vin Jaune in Jura. The 

cold naturally filters them and they become clearer. The 




aggressiveness and the ether nose evaporate. As Nathalie 

stresses, remember to put your glasses in the refrigerator at 

the start of the meal so that they don’t have to be cooled 

with ice, which, even when removed, adds liquid to the 

brandy. And don’t swirl it in the glass too much – no more 

than 2 or 3 times, otherwise the alcohol stands out. Every 

little detail counts! 

One last piece of information: the distillery shop in 

Ribeauvillé accounts for 50% of the company’s turnover. 

Pay them a visit, you’ll understand why! 

Demi-johns at Metté 

Taste, taste and taste again. This is an important part of 

Guillaume Drouin’s job 

CALVADOS DROUIN 

APPLES WITH GOOD BREED 

Guillaume Drouin is the third generation to produce 

Calvados. The distillery is now housed in a former stud farm 

in Pont l´Evêque. He grows 35 varieties of apples and buys 

fruit too, allowing him to achieve the right balance with 

mostly bitter-sweet (up to 70% of apples in Pays d’Auge), 

bitter, sweet and crisp varieties. As an apple tree produces 

fruit every other year, by alternating varieties of each style, 

the 30 varieties required can be reached effortlessly. 

The fruit is quite different to edible apples – it is sweet 

but also quite tannic. Drouin points out that, unlike 

grapes, apple flesh also contains tannins, which is why 

it turns brown when cut. The orchards are planted with 

trees that are spaced out, and pruned with long canes to 

avoid temptation for the cows which eat the worm-eaten 

apples on the ground, thereby helping fertilise the soils. 

By planting 15-20 varieties a field and keeping the trees 

well apart, the only intervention required is pruning. This 

is very different to industrial orchards where unfortunately 

it has become the norm to spray agro-chemicals 20 to 

30 times a year. 

The apples – which are much more robust than eating 

apples – are picked up off the ground once a week. The 

fruit is immediately chopped and pressed and the juice is 

put into a fermenter to produce cider. For bottled cider, 

the proportions of each variety are chosen just before 

pressing, but for Calvados, the choice is made when the 

orchard is planted. Distillation begins with the first ciders 

in October and ends in June. A cider distilled when young 

produces rounded, fruity Calvados. A more mature cider is 

more acidic and harsher, but has better ageing potential. 




Guillaume Drouin 

Everything has to be tasted then blended once a year. 

Then maturation begins, another key part of the Calvados 

process, in 1,200 casks that have already been used for Port, 

Sherry and Cognac for instance. Ullage is quite significant 

and the casks often contain 10% of air – it’s all very 

scientific. The different cellars also have their own particular 

features: the traditional Normandy house with its timberframe 

walls and thatched roof guarantees perfect insulation, 

whilst a slate roof allows the temperature to vary from 10 

to 20°C. “For Calvados, maturation is as important as 

distillation”, points out Drouin. Apparently, he is proficient 

at both because his 150,000 bottles produced annually are 

shipped worldwide. 

PROTECTING CRAFTSMANSHIP 

With this kind of product, the traditional post-prandial 

drink – the antithesis of binge drinking – has a rightful 

place in the gourmet hall of fame. Although it has suffered 

tremendously from rural exodus and a disconnect with the 

farming community, connoisseurs and purists are holding 

the fort. And in recent years, they have been joined by 

prominent figures such as pastry chefs and mixologists, 

who are increasingly demanding in their choice of products. 


A view of the Bodegas Bleda winery 

from the vineyards 

SPAIN 


The Monastrell grape 

stakes its claim 

This red wine variety, native to the Levante region on the East coast of Spain, has 

for many years been asserting its ability to produce high quality red wines, as 

well as rosé, sweet and sparkling wines. Also known as Mourvèdre and Mataró, 

in addition to this part of the Mediterranean, it is well-established in a variety of 

locations including Provence, Australia and California. 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 


SPAIN 


The manager of Bodegas Alceño, Andres Bastida in the vineyard 

Like other native Spanish wine varieties, Monastrell 

has had to wait for its moment and stop being 

considered as a variety that is only suitable 

for ‘younger’ wines. However, in the last two 

decades, this Levante variety has regained its 

reputation, thanks to the intense wines produced 

in the Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and Utiel-Requena 

designations of origin. 

BODEGAS ALCEÑO JUMILLA D.O. 

150 YEARS ON... 

Formerly owned by the Martinez family for many 

generations until it was bought in 2011 by the Bastida 

family, when its name was changed to Bodegas Alceño, 

this winery has been making single varietal wines using 

the region’s native variety, Monastrell. In recent years, the 

winery has moved with the times, adapting to market 

trends and diverging from single varietals to produce wines 

blended with other varieties such as Tempranillo, Syrah, 

Grenache, Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and 

Cabernet-Sauvignon for red wines and Sauvignon blanc, 

Verdejo, Airen and Macabeo for white wines, along with 

sweet sparkling rosés, etc. It was the original winery in 

Jumilla to produce the first-ever rosé traditional method 


SPAIN 


sparkling wine made entirely from Monastrell. 

As a winery, its aim is “to present the consumer with a wide 

portfolio of wines offering the best value for money”. Its 

customers are located in over 35 countries throughout the 

world and represent some 70% of its sales volumes. 30% of 

its wines are drunk in the home market. 

All the wines from this winery have been rated highly and 

have received awards from the world’s foremost guides and 

a variety of competitions including the Gilbert & Gaillard 

International Challenge. 

Last year, it celebrated its 150 th anniversary... and counting... 

Juan Miguel Benítez is the winemaker 

at Bodegas Alceño 

The vineyards and winery at Bodegas Arloren 

BODEGAS ARLOREN, JUMILLA D.O. 

THE LEGACY OF DON DOMINGO ARCE 

This winery’s raison d’être revolves around the family as 

its central pillar, and also its loyalty to traditional methods 

and quality. 

The winery stems from several generations of experience as 

liqueur distillers. In 1972, with Domingo Arce at the helm, 

it was decided the time had come to make a change – the 

company chose to enter the world of wine at a time when 

the country was undergoing significant changes itself. 

Now 83, Arce’s charisma and passion for a job well done is 

still ever-present in every part of the winery. He continues 

to contribute ideas and advice, and like a good reserva wine, 

he adds the special touch which increases in value with the 

passing of time. He is still very much involved in the day-today 

business of the company. 

Don Domingo’s son, who now holds the reins, is in practice 

responsible for everything: he is out in the field inspecting 

development of the vines, overseeing the harvest, the 

winemaking process in the winery, and bottling. He is now 

the company’s ‘guiding light’. His experience and instinct 

are fundamental to its day-to-day development. 

Like some of the wineries in this article, Bodegas Arloren 

has set exports as one of its objectives in a bid to grow 

sales: the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Germany, 

the Czech Republic, Russia, Estonia, China, Australia and 

Nigeria are some of the countries where its wines can be 

found. In 2020, exports represented some 30% of total sales 

and for the current year, the firm’s sights have been set on 

reaching 50%. 

One aspect that makes this winery special is the name of 


SPAIN 


Members of the family - Jose, Domingo, Marisa and Miriam - at Bodegas Arloren 

some of its wines. Experience and members of the family have been 

an inspiration when christening the wines: “El Tío del Carro”, “Paca”, 

“Paco” and “La Nieta” are a tribute to the people close to the Arce 

Family. 

BODEGAS BLEDA, JUMILLA D.O. 

FROM BULK WINES TO PRESENT-DAY OFFERINGS 

This family-run winery traces its origins back to the beginning of the 

20 th century (1902), when the Bleda family established a wine and 

olive oil business in the town of Jumilla. But it was only 13 years later 

(1915), that they laid the foundations for what is known today as 

Bodegas Bleda. 

Jumilla is an area with a long winemaking tradition and it is here 

that the winery is located. It began to make a name for itself when 

one of its previous generations, led by Antonio Bleda Garcia, opted 

to change the winery from being a producer of bulk wines for the 

domestic market to, in their own words, “being pioneers in bottling 

Jumilla wines for the export market, something that was unthinkable 

at that time”. 


SPAIN 


Pascual Tomás, winemaker (left) and Antonio José Bleda, owner (right) at Bodegas Bleda 

The winery owns 250 hectares of vineyards, 80% planted to 

Monastrell with most of the vines farmed organically. As the 

winery says, “the variety is the one best suited to the environment 

in Jumilla, as it needs a warm climate to ripen. It copes with 

drought conditions very well and ripens equally well. The climate 

and the soils lend the grapes greater concentration of key elements, 

enabling us to produce powerful wines, with an intense colour, 

great structure and aromatic complexity”. 

All the wines are made primarily from the native Monastrell 

grape, either as single variety wines or blends with varieties such 

as Tempranillo, Syrah and Merlot. Among the wines, the soleracrafted 

Oro Viejo deserves a mention. It is still being made as it 

was at the turn of the 20 th century when Antonio Bleda succeeded 

in winning a gold medal for it at the 1929 Barcelona World 

Exhibition. 

The company “has always maintained a strong commitment 

to making high quality young and aged wines thanks to the 

extraordinary dedication of all the people who have been part of 

Bleda for four generations, both in the vineyard and at the winery”. 


SPAIN 


The Castaño family: from left to right, Daniel, Juan Pedro, Ramón Castaño, Ángela and Ramón 

BODEGAS CASTAÑO, YECLA D.O. 

100% ORGANIC BY 2023 

Wines made by this winery based in the Murcian town of Yecla (after 

which the designation of origin is named) are the “fruit of work on the 

native Monastrell grape, constant experimentation with other varieties 

and different kinds of soil where our vineyards in the Yecla D.O. are 

located. These factors lend greater complexity of aroma and flavour to 

each of our wines”. 

Since the start of the last century, generation after generation of this family 

has been committed to making wines from Monastrell, a grape variety 

which has achieved exceptional quality in the Levante region. 

Its entrepreneurial and experimental philosophy has implied introducing 

new technologies and modern winemaking systems over time. These have 

been combined with outstanding success with an attachment to the land 

and a passion for the region’s indigenous grape, which is the marvellous 

legacy of previous generations. 

As the Yecla winery points out, “our land with its climatic and soil 

conditions offer the perfect scenario for organic farming. If we add the 

most favourable conditions for organic winegrowing in our location to 


SPAIN 


our traditional quality winemaking techniques, the result 

can only lead to a more sustainable future”. Bodegas 

Castaño aims to be a 100% organic wine producer by 2023. 

Approximately 80% of the wine produced by this winery 

is destined for export to over 60 countries. In addition to 

Europe, Bodegas Castaño has a foothold in other countries 

such as the United States, Canada, Japan, China, Russia, 

the United Kingdom, South Korea, Brazil, Singapore, 

Venezuela, New Zealand, Algeria and United Arab Emirates, 

among others. 

Mariano López, the winemaker 

at Bodegas Castaño 

Pedro José Azorín, the winemaker at Bodegas La Purísima 

BODEGAS LA PURÍSIMA, YECLA D.O. 

WINES DESIGNED FOR EXPORT 

The history of this winery is defined by a commitment 

to quality, innovation and winemaking tradition. It was 

founded in 1946 by several farmers who came together to 

improve the quality of Yecla wines and to make great wines. 

In fact, at the beginning of the 1990s, the winery made one 

of its best wines, Iglesia Vieja Crianza, making it one of the 

region’s foremost wines, subsequently featuring on wine 

lists in the leading restaurants in Murcia. It is a wine which 

paved the way for producing other great wines. 

For the staff at Bodegas La Purísima, wines are “like a 

work of art incorporating a young, modern and up-todate 

philosophy within a long history”. The winery’s team 

is young, very well qualified and has great experience. 

Its technical staff, winemakers, sales team, international 

consultants and marketing personnel work daily to create 

the best wines possible. 

As the winery points out, “wines from our region (Yecla, 

Murcia) are fashionable worldwide thanks to the Monastrell 

grape and the acclaim given to it from the best critics 

internationally”. 

Bodegas La Purísima wines “adapt to the needs of the 

most demanding customers, constantly complying with the 

parameters of quality, both in the harvesting of the grapes 

and in the making of the wine”. 

“Our prestige is based on the quality of our wines and 

on our capacity to satisfy large volumes”. With a clear 

commitment to export (95% of its production is bound 

for the international market), its customers include the 

major agents and operators in the world of wine in over 

50 countries. 


SPAIN 


Bodegas La Purísima produces 60% of total output in its 

native Yecla D.O., with a capacity of some 9 million litres. 

The winery concludes: “The market is discovering the 

excellence of our wines which have achieved well-deserved 

prestige and many national and international awards”. 

BODEGAS MURVIEDRO, VARIOUS D.O.S 

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE BY FOCUSING 

ON THE NATIVE CULTIVAR 

This winery, with a foothold in a number of designations of 

origin (Alicante, Cava, Valencia, Utiel-Requena and Vinos 

de la Tierra de Castilla), has a significant presence in the 

’Monastrell region’, where it makes up to four Monastrell 

single varietals, two of which are farmed organically. 

The philosophy of this winery is to invest in the region 

where they are located because this is their hallmark. 

The name of the winery (Murviedro) is relatively new 

(2002). It was originally called Bodegas Schenk. Originally 

from Switzerland, but sensing that the wine business was 

going to be of global importance and not simply local, the 

family set up its first winery in Spain in 1927 in the town 

of Vilafranca del Penedés (Barcelona, Catalonia). In 1929, 

they founded the winery in Alicante, together with others in 

Utiel and Requena. 

At that time, as with most wine producers in the country, 

they produced ‘quality’ wine in bulk. However, from 

the middle of the 20 th century, they began to turn their 

attention to bottled wine. Because their wineries were near 

Mediterranean ports, they focused on one of the company’s 

current pillars – exports. 

The change in the company name coincided with the 75 th 

anniversary of the founding of the winery in Spain, and it 

was also in honour of Cavas Murviedro, one of the most 

iconic brands in the Community of Valencia, making 

Bodegas Murviedro one of the most famous wineries. 

According to the winery team, the strategy at Murviedro 

“is based on investing in native grape varieties as the best 

ambassadors for our country and on boosting vineyards 

with old cultivars to create wines linked to the region, with 

unique characteristics which reveal a distinctive profile”. 

According to its technical director, “the Monastrell grape is 

key to the future of Murviedro, with its new line Sericis”. 

The barrel room at Bodegas Murviedro 

Juan José Muñoz, technical director at Bodegas Murviedro 


A drone view of the vineyards surrounding the winery at DFJ Vinhos 

PORTUGAL 

– SUCCESS STORY – 

Wineries taking 

on the future... 

Europe’s most south-westerly country boasts a plethora of wineries, many of which 

have a long history. As with any civilization seeking to move forward, however, 

new and younger generations come along. Introducing new technology but also 

drawing on the experience of their predecessors, they get into the starting blocks 

with a view to achieving success in the marketplace. 

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - Foto©Hugo_Pinheiro 


PORTUGAL 


José Neiva Correia, the winery owner at DFJ Vinhos, 

in the barrel room 

Portugal is the 10 th largest wine producer 

in the world and offers a wide diversity of 

wines from north to south. We have all 

heard of the historic wineries in the Douro, 

Madeira and Alentejo, each with their own 

history, but new wineries are constantly 

emerging and their quality captures our attention. They 

have great potential to rank amongst the best in the nottoo-distant 

future. 

We are going to introduce you to three such wineries 

with strong growth potential and products that can set 

the trend over the coming decades. 

DFJ VINHOS 

José Neiva Correia is from a winegrowing family and is 

the owner of DFJ Vinhos. The company was created in 

1998 and all of its 250 hectares are certified sustainable. 

Located within the Lisboa appellation, all its vineyards 

are 70 km to the north-east of the Portuguese capital, 


PORTUGAL 


José Neiva Correia, the winery owner at DFJ Vinhos, 

surrounded by vines 

Quinta Fonte Bela belonging to DFJ Vinhos 

Lisbon, and are situated around the main winery. Here, at 

the epicentre of the company’s entire operation, 80 ha of 

vineyards produce around 3 million litres of wine. 

The vineyards bask in air that rises off the Atlantic, having a 

notable influence on their growth. The continental climate, 

with its ocean breeze, together with abundant sunlight, 

helps the grapes ripen slowly over the summer. Different 

vineyard sites dotted over the 250-hectare estate are reflected 

in the different types of wine produced by DFJ Vinhos. 

In 2020, during the Covid pandemic, “we invested a lot 

in order to increase safety for our employees, and drew up 

contingency plans, which has allowed work at the winery to 

continue”, said the winery. “We completed the first harvest 

at Quinta da Fonte Bela (50 ha)”. In spite of it being a 

problematic year due to the pandemic, the company grew 

by 20% in comparison with the 250 ha of the previous year 

(2019), exporting 99% of its entire production. 


PORTUGAL 


The main markets are currently the European Union, 

Scandinavia, the USA, Canada and Brazil. 

The company produces red, white and rosé wines from 

20 varieties of native and international grapes: Touriga 

Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Castelão, Alicante 

Bouschet, Tannat, Dornfelder, Pinot Noir, Caladoc, 

Alfrocheiro, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, 

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscatel, Arinto, Fernão Pires 

and Alvarinho. 

The wines are produced in a number of designations 

of origin (Douro, Lisboa, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and 

Península de Setúbal), and can be found in all market 

segments: wines for regular consumption, mid-range 

wines, premium, iconic wines and even a sparkling wine 

(Portada). 

The company only uses French oak barrels from Allier, 

and restores them in its own cooperage for re-use. 

This enables it to use them many more times than the 

industry norm, and gives José Neiva scope to select 

barrels for each of the varieties with which he works. 

DFJ Vinhos has received numerous awards. Since 2010, 

it has received a total of 3,755 accolades, 610 of them 

in 2020. 

A drone view of the winery at DFJ Vinhos 

ANSELMO MENDES 

Anselmo Mendes is the owner and winemaker at the 

winery that bears his name. He graduated in agroindustrial 

engineering in 1987 at the Higher Education 

Institute of the Technical University in Lisbon, and also 

graduated in oenology at the Catholic University of 

Portugal (Lisbon) six years later. 

He has worked on different winemaking projects in 

various parts of Portugal (Douro, Dao) as well as in Latin 

America (Brazil and Argentina). He began to study and 

experiment with the Alvarinho grape in 1987, and as a 

result of his research into the effects of fermentation and 

ageing in oak barrels on the variety, he produced his first 

wine in 1998: Muros de Melgaço. 

Since then and for over 20 years, Mendes’ focus has been 

Anselmo Mendes is passionate about experimenting and studying the 

Alvarinho grape, and has been doing so for 30 years 


Anselmo Mendes at Quinta da Torre, in Monção and Melgaço 

PORTUGAL 


on experimenting mainly with the Alvarinho grape and 

producing outstanding wines throughout Portugal. 

Today, as a consultant, he works on several successful 

projects in different parts of Portugal, as well as in 

other countries. 

His philosophy is based on uniting concepts that are both 

simple yet complex, fusing tradition and innovation: 

recovering traditional vineyard and winemaking 

techniques, and combining these with modern 

fermentation methods. Fermenting the Alvarinho grape 

in wooden barrels or using traditional fermentation 

techniques, as well as fermentation on the skins, are 


PORTUGAL 


just some of the techniques which set these wines apart. 

“We believe in preserving the authenticity of our region 

and the expression of our land through our wines. 

Our mission is to produce unique wines that project 

our identity”. 

Currently, the winery is located almost on the border 

of Portugal and Spain to the north. It produces wines 

from three varieties of white grape (Alvarinho, Loureiro, 

Avesso) and one red grape (Alvarelhão) in three 

sub-regions of the demarcated Vinho Verde region: 

Alvarinho and Alvarelhão in the Minho valley; Loureiro 

in the Lima valley; and Avesso in the Douro valley. It 

also produces wines in other regions across the country. 

In Dão, it has a 6-ha estate at Quinta de Silvares, whilst 

on Terceira Island (Azores) it produces Magma wines 

from the Verdelho grape. Similarly, it produces wines in 

the Douro and Beira inland regions. 

Quinta da Torre is the largest Alvarinho Estate in Monção e Melgaço and the 

birthplace of Anselmo Mendes Wines 

CANTANHEDE 

This co-operative has 500 vine grower members, 

was founded in 1954 and has 52 employees. It has 

1,000 hectares of vineyards located in the wine region 

of Bairrada, in the town of Cantanhede, from where 

it takes its name. It harvests between 6 and 8 million 

kilos of grapes a year, and is the region’s largest wine 

producer (40% of the total). Eighty percent of its 

production is labelled DOC [Registered Designation 

of Origin] Bairrada and Beira Atlántico, and it leads 

the way for sales of wines and sparkling wines in these 

designations. 

The use of modern technology has led to a significant 

leap in quality in the wines, which is of paramount 

importance considering competition in the international 

market. It has focused improvements on food safety (the 

winery is certified by the International Standards for 

Food Quality and Safety ISO 9001: 2015 and IFS FOOD 

6.1) and enhancing and developing Portuguese grapes, 

in particular varieties traditional to the Bairrada region, 

such as Baga, Bical and Maria Gomes, and also Touriga 

Nacional, Aragonez and Arinto, amongst others. 

Traditional harvesting by hand at Cantanhede 


PORTUGAL 


Osvaldo Amado, the winemaker at Cantanhede 

Victor Damiao, the president of Cantanhede 

The co-operative’s wide portfolio (12 different brands) 

includes reds, whites, still and sparkling rosés, marc and 

fortified wines, allowing it to gain a foothold in various 

market segments and across the quality spectrum. The 

quantum leap in quality has given the wines a point of 

difference, creating “products with added value, based on 

unique and surprising aromas and flavours”. 

The winery is currently present in around twenty 

countries and its wines have been recognised in a 

number of prestigious international competitions (IWSC 

London, Mundus Vini. - Germany, Concours Mondial 

de Bruxelles, Selections Mondiales des Vins - Canada, 

Effervescents du Monde - France and the Berliner Wein 


PORTUGAL 


The Team at Cantanhede: From left to right – Osvaldo Amado (chief winemaker), Victor Damião (president), 

Maria Miguel Manão (export & MKT manager), Albino Costa (board member), Ivo Silva (assistant winemaker) 

Trophy – Germany) where, on several occasions, it has 

been the only winery in Bairrada to receive an award. 

One of its most notable awards was when it was rated 

as one of the 100 best wineries in the world in 2015, 

according to the World Association of Wines and Spirits 

Writers and Journalists. 

Winemaker Osvaldo Amado has been director of 

winemaking since 2011. His career began in 1987 

and since then he has gained extensive professional 

experience in the leading wine regions of Portugal, such 

as Bairrada, Dão, Douro, Verdes, Tejo and Lisbon, and 

also in other countries such as Spain, Italy, South Africa 

and Brazil. 


Abbazia di San Gaudenzio’s Azienda Torbane is located in Santo Stefano Belbo 

partly in the UNESCO listed area 


– DISCOVERY – 

ASTI DOCG AND MOSCATO D’ASTI DOCG 

in the past, present and future 

In Italy, one wine more than any other one suggests festivities and celebrating 

special moments: Moscato d’Asti. Our journey takes us to the regions, wines and 

wineries that fall within two of Piedmont’s most important designations: 

Asti Docg and Moscato d’Asti Docg. These are places with a timeless charm, which 

man has been able to gracefully and wisely shape by planting vineyards that follow 

the contours of the undulating land. 

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 




The vineyards of Casa Vinicola Abbazia owned by the Santero family in Santo Stefano Belbo, a small town between 

Monferrato, Langhe and Roero 

The areas where Moscato Bianco grapes are 

grown to produce Asti Docg and Moscato 

d’Asti Docg boast landscapes that cannot 

be found in any other Italian region. The 

area was defined in 1932 and includes 

52 localities situated in the provinces of 

Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo. Around 9,700 hectares of 

Moscato Bianco vineyards are registered in the Docg, and 

over 4,000 companies produce the wines. There are two 

different hilly macro-zones: 

- the Langhe, with a more elongated shape and long, 

slightly steep ridges. 

- Monferrato, with gentler hills, characterized by greater 

biodiversity. 

These areas are as diverse as they are complementary and 

make these designations exceptional. 

Although both made from Moscato Bianco, these are two 

different areas and designations: Asti Docg and Moscato 

d’Asti Docg. Moscato d’Asti, which does not undergo a 

secondary fermentation, is not a sparkling wine, even if it 

is sometimes characterized by a slight natural beading (it is 

said to be “racy”). Asti, conversely, is a true sparkling wine. 




Moscato bianco is often underestimated but boasts the complexity and versatility typical of excellent grapes 

SAME GRAPE, DIFFERENT STYLES 

Asti Spumante Docg is exclusively made from the Moscato 

Bianco grape variety grown on the calcareous soils within 

the production area and the microclimate typical of hilly 

areas. Traditional Piedmontese expertise in producing 

sparkling wines; winemaking knowledge; vineyard 

management; and harvesting techniques ensure that the 

aroma in the grapes is preserved in the wine. Its intense 

aroma, characterized by a musky flavour, acid and sugar 

balance and moderate alcohol content, recalls acacia 

flowers, wisteria, orange and mountain honey. The spicy 

background note, instead, recalls elderflower, yarrow, and 

bergamot. 

In recent years, Asti producers have taken the designation 

down the innovation route, leading to the creation of new 

types of wine based on their residual sugar: Asti from 

Demi-Sec to Extra dry, via Dry or Secco in 2017. 

For Moscato d’Asti Docg, after the Controlled and 

Guaranteed Denomination of Origin ‘Asti’ was introduced 

in 1993, two different designations were created from 

the same vineyards. Moscato d’Asti Docg is one of the 

most typical products of Piedmontese viticulture. Its main 




characteristic is an intense musky aroma imparted by 

the grapes from which it is made, a delicate flavour 

reminiscent of wisteria and lime, peach and apricot 

with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossom, a sugary 

component and low alcohol content. It is important to 

reiterate that Moscato d’Asti Docg is not a sparkling wine, 

as it undergoes minimum re-fermentation in autoclaves, 

which is stopped when an alcohol content of about 5% 

vol is reached. 

Both these wines represent, albeit in different ways, 

the brightness and aromatics of a varietal that is often 

underestimated but which boasts the complexity (terpene 

precursors have a truly unique capacity to develop) and 

the versatility typical of excellent grapes. 

BROAD GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION 

For almost 100 years, the Consorzio per la tutela 

dell’Asti Docg [Consortium for the Protection of Asti 

Docg] has been protecting and raising the profile of 

these denominations. It was officially established on 

December 17, 1932, and initially recognized in 1934 

with the name of “Consorzio per la Difesa dei Vini Tipici 

Moscato d’Asti Spumante e Asti Spumante” [Consortium 

for the Protection of the Typical Wines Moscato d’Asti 

Spumante and Asti Spumante]. 

Moscato Bianco grapes have wide geographical 

distribution. They are grown over approximately 

10,000 hectares divided between 51 localities in 

the provinces of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo. Over 

1,400 hectares have an incline of more than 40% and, 

out of these, 330 hectares have a gradient higher than 

50%: these vineyards have historically been nicknamed 

‘SORÌ’, where due to the steep slopes, it is impossible to 

use mechanical devices, and work can only be done by 

hand. The Asti hills were the first wine hills to be listed 

as UNESCO World Heritage. 

1,013 companies belong to the consortium, divided 

between 50 sparkling wine producers, 778 vine growers, 

153 wineries, 17 winemakers and 15 co-operative 

The Asti Spumante Docg by the Abbazia di San Gaudenzio 

winery is a typical sparkling wine from Piedmont, ideal for 

desserts, fruit and pastries 




Lorenzo Barbero, chairman of the Consorzio dell’ Asti e del Moscato 

d’Asti Docg 

Giacomo Pondini, director of the Consorzio dell’Asti e Moscato d’Asti Docg 

wineries. Annual production is usually around 85 million 

bottles, of which about 50 million are Asti Docg, and 

the remaining 35 million are Moscato d’Asti Docg. 

Additionally, 85% of production is exported. 

I interviewed Lorenzo Barbero, the new chairman of the 

Consorzio per la tutela dell’Asti Spumante e del Moscato 

d’Asti Docg, and Giacomo Pondini, its director, about the 

future of these designations. 

- Chairman, what is your vision of the production of Asti 

Spumante and Moscato d’Asti Docg today? 

My vision is that of a wine which is part of a great Italian 

tradition but satisfies modern tastes and is increasingly striving 

to be a touchstone for the Moscato grape globally. Recent 

changes to specifications will allow producers to provide Asti 

Spumante with different residual sugar levels, thereby creating 

a stylistic variety that will always have as its core this vine’s 

uniqueness and its region of origin. 

- What are the projects you are committed to carrying out? 

Many initiatives have already been launched by the outgoing 

administration, which we are committed to carrying on. First 

of all, strengthening the bond between Moscato Bianco for Asti 

and Moscato d’Asti producers and the region. We are planning 

to achieve this goal through over 20 roundabouts to convey a 

message to those passing through these areas, whether they are 

tourists or residents, about the cultural and social importance 

of these landscapes, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage 

Site. At national level, an ongoing communication campaign 

is designed to put the designation back in the spotlight for 

a consumer audience. Also, the campaign with our chef 

ambassador Alessandro Borghese continues in 2021. The 

campaign offers us great opportunities to explain how these 

wines can be appreciated even outside their usual pairing with 

desserts. 

Foreign promotion remains a fundamental aspect of our 

thrust for Asti spumante and Moscato d’Asti. EC tenders are 

important tools: exports of our Asti Spumante and Moscato 

d’Asti wines cover over 85% of production, and to maintain 

this market share, we must continuously put forward new 

initiatives. In compliance with Covid-19 restrictions, we 




are planning initiatives in North America, a particularly 

important market for Moscato d’Asti, and for the Russian 

market, which is of great relevance to Asti Spumante. Our 

three-year promotion project in Asian countries is on standby, 

but it will restart as soon as the general situation permits. 

Over the next three years, we would like to focus on 

sustainability and working on a certification for the region, 

not only as a goal for individual companies but as a principle 

shared by the whole community. 

- Director, what are the prospects for the designation after 

such a complex year? 

2020 ended with an 8.5% increase in Asti Spumante 

and Moscato d’Asti bottle production compared to 2019. 

Expectations for the beginning of 2020 were not that rosy, 

and even the general situation certainly did not bode well. 

Some markets have strengthened from a sales perspective - the 

USA and Great Britain above all - but Italy suffered a decline. 

This is primarily due to the Italian Horeca sector’s slowdown, 

the main sales channel in Italy for our products. Therefore, 

once the current limitations have been overcome, our goal is 

to regain a strong presence in Italy, which should be our base 

and provide support to maintain the kind of popularity the 

designation is experiencing worldwide. 

The following is a selection of the most representative 

companies in the region and the two Asti designations. 

Moscato d’Asti Docg vineyards seen from above. An incredible landscape for 

vibrant wines 

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE 

This company stems from the Isolabella della Croce 

family’s deep bond with Loazzolo, a small town 

between Langa and Monferrato, where the smallest DOC 

designation in Italy, Loazzolo Vendemmia Tardiva, is 

located. The vineyard covers 14 hectares nestled amidst 

woodland. It is well-known for the production of 

Moscato d’Asti. The high-elevation vineyards in Loazzolo 

are particularly suited to the production of Moscato, 

as they have generally loose marl limestone soils. The 

grapes are still manually harvested in crates to preserve 

the highest quality of fruit that will be destemmed and 

crushed using gentle pressing. The second fermentation 

Isolabella della Croce’s vineyards cover 14 hectares nestled amidst woodland 




The vineyards of Isolabella della Croce, located in a hilly area in Loazzolo, 

are particularly suited to growing Moscato 

The Vinc’ e Voij wine bar overlooks the vineyards at Vinchio Vaglio 

and is the starting point of the Nests’ Trail 

is done at controlled temperatures, and once the wine 

has reached 5 degrees of alcohol, it is arrested using 

refrigeration. Before proceeding with sterile bottling, 

tartaric stabilization is carried out. Fining takes one 

month in the bottle before the wines are released for sale. 

These wines show outstanding balance between residual 

sugar and a fresh, savoury perception due to the area’s 

particular soil and weather conditions. 

VINCHIO VAGLIO 

Vinchio Vaglio is a co-operative founded in 1959 based 

on an idea by 19 vine growers from two small towns, 

Vinchio and Vaglio Serra, in the upper Monferrato, 

today the core of the UNESCO areas. The co-operative 

represents 192 families of vine growers who take care 

of 450 hectares of vineyards every day. Although they 

mainly grow Barbera, they view Moscato as an essential 

link with the region. The soil composition is mainly 

calcareous and sandy in Vinchio and predominantly 

clayey in Vaglio. The co-operative combines very 

traditional vineyard management techniques, almost 

heroic due to the steepness of the vineyards, and hand 

harvesting, with modern practices such as the use of 

temperature-controlled steel tanks and a high-tech 

bottling line, protecting the environment thanks to the 

installation of solar panels. 

In this area, almost all the farmers traditionally had 

a few rows of Moscato to make a few bottles of sweet 

wine, sometimes unfiltered, designed to be drunk 

at Christmas and on holidays. The evolution of this 

tradition is precisely what links Vinchio Vaglio to 

Moscato d’Asti Docg and Asti Docg. The inclusion 

of members from neighbouring small towns and the 

increase in the areas planted to Moscato, well-suited to 

the less sandy and more clayey soils in those areas, led 

the winery to adapt and undergo modernisation for the 

production of Valamasca, an excellent Moscato d’Asti 

Docg, and subsequently also to sparkling winemaking 

with Asti Docg. 




MARENCO VINI 

The company was founded in 1925 by Michele Marenco, 

whose dream was to make wine using grapes from his 

vineyard in the heart of the Bagnario di Strevi Valley, a land 

with an excellent wine-growing tradition. Giuseppe, his 

son, started the company’s evolution process by gradually 

buying the best land in Monferrato. In 1956 he built the 

winery in the centre of Borgo Alto di Strevi to get closer to 

the train station from where he could ship the wine to his 

customers. Today, Giuseppe’s three daughters, Michela, 

with her husband Giovanni Costa the company’s manager, 

Doretta and Patrizia, are carrying on the family dream. 

Andrea Costa, the eldest son of Michela and Giovanni, 

joined the company in 2014 and tells me about Strevi’s 

historical connections to the production of Moscato, so 

much so that it is specified in the production regulations as 

a particularly traditional and favourable sub-area. 

“Our cellar and a large part of our vineyards have been 

in Strevi since 1925. We still have the old Dutch jute 

sacks used for filtering Moscato until the 1970s in our 

cellar. We are one of the Piedmont companies known as 

‘Moscatiste’ that produce Moscato entirely from their own 

grapes. The fact that we currently have a range of 6 different 

wines produced from 100% Moscato Bianco shows how 

important Moscato is for us”. 

Marenco produces several Moscato d’Asti ‘crus’, such as 

Scrapona and the related raisin-based wine, Strevi DOC. 

The company carries out in-depth studies into how Moscato 

vines produce their precious aroma, to safeguard them from 

climate change. The Strevi area is located south-east of the 

Moscato d’Asti production area. It is an early-ripening area 

as it is slightly warmer than the other suitable areas. The 

Ligurian Apennines are less than 10 km away and ensure 

the wine region’s natural climate control. The sandy soils 

are rich in limestone, preserving good acidity even in 

the very hot summers of late. The resulting wine is more 

delicate in its aromas with a full mouthfeel, thanks to high 

sugar content, that is always balanced by good minerality 

and acidity. 

Some of Marenco’s vineyards located in the Strevi area, south-east of the 

Moscato d’Asti production area 

The Moscato vineyards belonging to Marenco, in the Bagnario di Strevi 

Valley, covered with snow 




The Santero Family owns and manages the Abbazia di San Gaudenzio Winery, a heritage of great historical and cultural importance 

CASA VINICOLA ABBAZIA 

Casa Vinicola Abbazia belonging to the Santero family 

is located in Santo Stefano Belbo, a small town between 

Monferrato, Langhe and Roero. The landscape is unspoilt 

and rich in the unique biodiversity typical of Monferrato 

and these areas. The company has 60 hectares of vineyards 

but also sources grapes from long-standing suppliers. “Land 

has never betrayed anyone” is one of Mario Santero’s 

mottos. “If you give it the right attention, it will give 

you good results in return. Our wine stems from correct 

exposure and the best soil, expert pruning and the ability to 

manually choose the ripest bunches. That’s how we obtain 

unique aromatic profiles, bright and lasting colours, fuller, 

velvety and balanced flavours that make our Moscato a 

reference point for balance and pleasantness”. 




F.LII MARTINI SECONDO LUIGI 

Since 1947 Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi has believed 

and invested in the wine heritage and socio-economic 

characteristics of places of origin, which are the 

foundations of its success. It is the largest family-run 

company producing Asti and Moscato d’Asti Docg in 

its area, thanks to its 1,200 suppliers. This is a great 

example of co-operation ensuring the planting and then 

nurturing of most of the Moscato vineyards in the area. 

Safeguarding the region, farming the historic vineyards 

with the utmost care and encouraging agricultural 

work and the continuity of traditions is the company’s 

mission, which has always produced good results. Being 

in tune with nature and enhancing its connection 

with the region from a farming and people perspective 

are essential components of this prestigious winery’s 

evolution. 

The Martini family has always loved the perfect design 

of vineyards that human hands created on the rolling 

hills, especially those of Langa, and does everything 

to preserve them. With their gentle ridges overlooking 

endless landscapes, the hills inspire and encourage them 

to go further, and Fratelli Martini cannot resist following 

this call with respect and mindfulness. 

In the cellar, the Moscato grapes are vinified with the 

most modern techniques and winemaking technology. 

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi spa markets a number of 

brands such as Casa Sant’Orsola, Canti, 35 Parallelo, 

Collezione Marchesini and Il Cortigiano, which typify 

the Italian spirit across the globe. Among them, I 

recommend the Moscato d’Asti Docg Canti, which is 

available worldwide. 

Gianni Martini in the cellar belonging to fratelli Martini Secondo 

Luigi in Cossano Belbo, one of the most important in Italy 

BOSIO FAMILY ESTATES 

The Bosio family established their own wine business in 

Santo Stefano Belbo. Today the family is represented by 

Valter and Luca Bosio, father and son, and Rosella, their 

respective wife and mother. 

Their vision has evolved over the years, blending 

The Bosio family combines tradition and innovation, from the 

vineyard to the glass 




The Bosio family’s vineyards in Santo Stefano Belbo 

traditions and enhancing the region’s excellence. Grapes 

are grown with respect in these unique and unspoilt sites 

made up of woodlands and vineyards, villages and artcentric 

cities. The wine, therefore, not only epitomises 

‘Made in Italy’ quality but also the cultural background 

of its origins. 

Although it has a firm local rooting, the company 

has global exposure. Since production regulations were 

changed, Bosio Family Estates has introduced some new 

labels. One of them is its Asti Docg Secco single-vintage. 

This sparkling wine preserves the distinctive aromatic 

terpenes of Moscato, but foregoes residual sugar in favour 

of a drier mouthfeel. Its dry, fresh flavours create new 

sensations and pave the way for more sophisticated food 

pairings that do not restrict Moscato to a simple pudding 

wine. I am a firm believer in the success of Asti Secco 

Docg as it can offer contrasting impressions: its nose 

aromas are suggestive of a sweet wine but then you find 

yourself sipping a dry, savoury wine. 


UNITED KINGDOM 

– IMPORTER – 

Boutinot prides itself on having winemakers, tractors and vineyards in the UK, southern Rhone, Piemonte and Franschhoek 

BOUTINOT WINES 

“A business built on great people 

and fantastic quality” 

Boasting a history spanning back over forty years, Boutinot is a household name 

in wine distribution and production, revolving around “great people and fantastic 

quality”. Its UK head Shaun English explains how the company is keeping its finger 

on the pulse of the fast-moving wine market. 

By Ellen Budge - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 

Originally a strong advocate of French wines, 

Boutinot now sources wines worldwide from a 

complimentary combination of international 

wine producers and its own wineries. 

It sells over 40 million bottles a year across 

60+ countries. Covering every route to market in the UK, 

from e-commerce, national retail, wholesale and on-trade 

to independent retail, it prides itself on its close ties with the 

supply side. “We have winemakers, tractors and vineyards 

in the UK, southern Rhone, Piemonte and Franschhoek, 

which enables us to taste, touch, feel and smell our great 

own production wines”, explains Shaun English. These 

ties extend to its 150-plus partner producers, and are 

proving to be extremely valuable in the volatile Coviddriven 

world. “Our criteria for selecting our suppliers 

haven’t changed in the past 12 months, but many of the 

qualities we look for have been really important to us – 

trustworthiness and reliability being the most important.” 

Drawing on consumer and industry-driven feedback along 

with recognition in the form of accolades and reviews, 

Boutinot is riding the crest of consumer enthusiasm for 

more esoteric regions such as Georgia, Lebanon and 

Austria, along with organic offerings from Chile and 

Spain and German wines. It is also enjoying success with 

red and rosé Costieres, Provence rosés and Gamay from 

Beaujolais or neighbouring localities, in addition to as yet 

under-the-radar wines from areas such as Côtes de Thau, 

plus entry-level California, due to “increased presence and 

better sourcing”. Ultimately, the company is now readying 

to resume business as usual post-Covid restrictions: “From 

June 21 st and the hopeful full removal of lockdown – 

I think I can speak for all in the trade both customers, 

suppliers and consumers – we cannot wait to be back out 

there. Safely of course!” 


Roberta Deflorian, Sales 

and Marketing Director for 

Schenk Italian Wineries 


– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT – 

Schenk Group 

From Switzerland 

to the world 

The Schenk Group ranks amongst the world’s largest wine companies and yet it 

rarely makes the headlines. We take a behind-the-scenes look at how it has evolved 

since its advent in 1893, with a particular focus on its Italian branch, 

Schenk Italian Wineries. 

By Ellen Budge - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 




Schenk Italian Wineries has its head office in Ora, near Bolzano in the province of South Tyrol 

VERTICAL INTEGRATION 

The small town of Rolle, in Switzerland’s Vaud 

wine region on the shores of Lake Geneva, 

is the birthplace of the Schenk Group. It is 

from here that the company’s founder Charles 

Schenk, then his son Arnold, set out to build a 

pan-European empire that currently embraces 

3,500 hectares of owned and managed vineyards and 

numerous subsidiary companies. “What makes Schenk 

unique”, says Roberta Deflorian, sales director for Schenk 

Italian Wineries, “is that the Group has always focused 

solely on wine, and nothing else, for nearly 130 years”. 

With fourth-generation François Schenk at its helm, it is a 

vertically integrated firm, encompassing every aspect of the 

wine industry, from winegrowing through to bottling and 

sales, with distribution companies and wineries in France, 

Italy, Spain, Germany, Benelux, the United Kingdom and 

more recently, the United States. Although it has a strong 

Swiss base, it markets wines not only across Europe but to 

all the world’s leading consumer markets, including Italy, 

the US, Russia, Asia and Scandinavia. 

TRANSITIONING WITH THE CONSUMER 

Its development and investments align with three core 

values: its family commitment; a spirit of enterprise and 




innovation; and aiming for excellence. Over the decades, 

it has successfully pivoted from bulk to bottled wines, 

following shifts in consumer patterns. Its first overseas 

subsidiary company based in Sète, southern France, echoes 

its market-centric approach. “Sète was founded during 

the First World War for supplying bulk wines”, recounts 

Deflorian. “Now, France is a producer country of estate 

wines with little gems in Burgundy and Côtes du Rhône 

and with one of the most important buyers of En Primeur 

Grands Crus and distributors of Bordeaux”. 

In 2020, Schenk Italian Wineries produced 51 million bottles of wine 

THREE FLAGSHIP WINERIES 

Its Italian operations, founded in 1952 in Reggio Emilia 

then relocated to Ora in South Tyrol in 1960, have 

undergone the same sea change. “Today’s Schenk Italian 

Wineries is a completely different company from its 

origins when it was a supplier of bulk wines, mainly 

for companies within the Group”, explains Deflorian. 

“Nowadays, Schenk Italian Wineries has three wholly 

owned wineries – Kellerei Auer in Alto Adige; Bacio Della 

Luna in Valdobbiadene; and Lunadoro in Tuscany – and 

its brands are recognised worldwide”. The three wineries 

are the company’s flagships but its footprint covers the 

major Italian wine regions that are Trentino Alto Adige, 

Sicily, Piedmont, Veneto, Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzo, 

Puglia and Sardinia, where its 10 winemakers follow the 

entire production process. As one of Italy’s largest wine 

producers, its production credentials are impressive: it 

has a total vat capacity of 152,000 hectolitres and 1,500 

hl of wines aged in barrels; its bottling lines have a 

combined capability of 350,000 bottles a day and its 

annual production is in the range of 48-50 million bottles. 

The Bacio della Luna winery is located in Valdobbiadene 

CAPITALISING ON ITALY’S VINOUS DIVERSITY 

But Schenk Italian Wineries is not about clocking up statistics 

– it is about a close connection with the regions where it 

has a foothold, and ensuring that each one over-delivers 

on site-expressiveness. From the Alpine microclimate and 

dolomitic soils around the Kellerei Auer winery in South 

Tyrol to the medium-elevation Montepulciano vineyards 

of Lunadoro which bask in Mediterranean sunshine, the 

scope for diversity is extensive. Bacio della Luna, set in the 

DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 

area, factors bubbles into the equation. Other Italian 

regions allow the company to tap into the boundless range 




of international and native grape varieties the country 

is renowned for. Portfolio staples such as Barbera and 

Nebbiolo are joined by varieties such as Grillo, Nero 

d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Frappato. Similarly, the 

company makes full use of traditional and innovative 

winemaking techniques, from slow barrel maturation to 

‘appassimento’, where the grapes are dried in the vineyard 

to concentrate flavours. 

INNOVATING THROUGH E-COMMERCE 

Core values at Group level filter down through all 

the subsidiary companies and Schenk Italian Wineries 

illustrates this to perfection. Innovation is pivotal to its 

development, as evidenced by its response to the Covid 

crisis in 2020. “The Horeca segment suffered from Covid 

but we managed to compensate with our offer in the other 

off-trade channels that we supply, and we immediately 

invested in a new e-commerce platform”. Geared to the 

domestic market, Vineria43 is performing very well. “It is 

a small e-commerce shop – we are not competing with the 

sector’s giants”, says Deflorian. “We just want to provide 

our customers with an additional service during lockdown 

and also for the future as habits have changed”. 

Barrel maturation at Lunadoro is used alongside cutting edge techniques 

DYNAMIC PRODUCT RANGE 

The company’s multi-channel distribution network 

enabled it not just to weather the storm in 2020, but to 

post a 4% increase in revenue, which rose to 115 million 

euros from a production output of 51 million bottles. 

Its increased presence in multiple retail offset losses in 

the hospitality industry, though the reopening of Horeca 

outlets met with a surge in demand. Its success can be 

ascribed not only to its ability to pivot swiftly to new 

distribution channels, but also to its product innovations. 

2020 saw the launch of its Bacio della Luna Prosecco 

DOC Rosé Millesimato 2019 Extra Dry, and the company 

has also revisited classic Piedmont varieties Nebbiolo and 

Barbera, whilst introducing consumers to local varieties 

under its organic Masso range. Deflorian offers her 

explanation for why the company’s wines hit the right 

spot: “Good quality, very nice packaging and the right 

price”. 

SUSTAINABILITY A KEY FOCUS 

Perhaps one of the most meaningful developments in the 

company is its focus on sustainability. Italy is renowned 

Alessio Zanardo, one of the winemakers at Bacio della Luna 




A part of the winemaking team at Schenk Italian Wineries 

for its pledge to organic winegrowing, but Schenk Italian Wineries 

has pushed the envelope in its interpretation of sustainability, 

attaching importance not only to its environmental stewardship but 

also to social progress. Despite the challenges of 2020, the company 

continued to make significant headway in its environmental 

commitments, securing Equalitas certification at the start of this 

year for its main winery. The certification implies introducing good 

practice in the winery and out in the field. It is based on objective 

and measurable data, from soil and water biodiversity indices to 

water and carbon footprints, through good processing practices 

for environmental sustainability to management control and data 

transparency for economic sustainability. 

A WORK IN PROGRESS 

A further aspect is ethical sustainability: since 1997, Schenk 

Italian Wineries has rolled out initiatives such as scholarships for 

employees’ children based on scholastic merit, a nursery service 

and smartworking. Concurrently with this, it has been instrumental 

in reducing its usage of water and energy. The introduction of a 

4.0 bottling line at its production and cellar facilities in Ora, near 




Bolzano, has led to a 6.7% decrease in water consumption 

and 6.5% drop in electricity. The facilities at Bacio della 

Luna have similarly been certified APE for their energy 

usage and will be updated to the 4.0 bottling line by 

2022. Lunadoro in Tuscany is now heading towards 

Equalitas certification and has just been entirely converted 

to organic. 

PROMOTING WINE TOURISM 

Tying in with its environmental stewardship is its 

commitment to wine tourism. Italy is famed for its 

agriturismo network and Schenk Italian Wineries is 

planning to extend its reach by developing its hospitality 

activities as soon as travel is back on the agenda. “Wine 

tourism is very important to us in areas like Valdobbiadene 

and Tuscany”, stresses Deflorian. “We are planning to 

develop a hospitality programme in Lunadoro in Tuscany, 

with tastings and cellar visits. We are working on a similar 

project along with a small wine shop for our wines at Bacio 

della Luna”. In the meantime, the company continues to 

invest in winery innovations, other product launches and 

communications thrusts. It plans to roll out a new range 

from Campania in 2021, along with a new classic method 

sparkling wine from its Bacio della Luna facilities, to 

coincide with the tenth anniversary of the winery. Other 

releases are still under wraps. “We always have to keep 

our brains turned on and evolve, for products, ideas and 

technology”, says Deflorian. “We will never stop!” 

Schenk Italian Wineries is looking to develop its 

hospitality facilities as soon as travel is back on the 

agenda 

LOOKING AHEAD 

Despite the challenges thrown up by the Covid crisis, the 

company is optimistic for this year. “2021 will be another 

difficult year, but we will continue to invest within the 

company and in the marketplace with our partners. We 

strongly believe in long-term partnerships and in hard 

times, support is especially important”. Her optimism is 

shared by CEO Daniele Simoni: “Our goal is to continue 

to grow and consolidate the positioning of our brands 

in Italy and the world. For this reason, we are already 

planning, for the second half of 2021, some events 

capable of driving tourism in Italy. We want to imagine 

[2021] as a rebirth. We believe that when these sad times 

end, people will have an even greater desire to travel, to 

meet up and enjoy good wine and food in the company 

of others. We will be by their side”. 

The vineyards at Lunadoro in the beautiful Tuscan countryside 


The cool, rugged mountain ridges of the Piekenierskloof plateau 

SOUTH AFRICA 


Off the beaten track 

In the Covid-19 era, people are craving authentic experiences and heart-warming 

connections. Here are some of the hidden gems along South Africa’s less 

well-known wine routes. 

By Joanne Gibson - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Piekenierskloof majority shareholders Oubaas and Potgieter van Zyl 

Although South Africa’s winelands are relatively 

small, with fewer than 100,000 hectares of vines 

planted, there are more than 100 appellations in 

the country’s Wine of Origin (WO) classification 

scheme. Most are within a 100 km radius of Cape 

Town, from historic Constantia and Stellenbosch 

to ‘revolutionary’ newcomer Swartland, but for those wishing 

to make new and exciting discoveries, it’s worth taking the road 

less travelled… 

WEST COAST WINE ROUTE 

Even today, the Piekenierskloof mountain vineyards near 

Citrusdal seem remote when in fact they are an easy 160 km 

drive north of Cape Town. The first Grenache is said to have 

been planted in this rugged terrain in the 1700s, thriving so 

well that today many top South African producers come here 

for unirrigated old-vine Grenache, much of it planted on its 

own rootstock. Grenache is also a key focus for local winery 

Piekenierskloof Wines, whose wide range includes a Grenache 

Noir, Blanc, Rosé and two blends. 

“Our high elevation (650 m average) combined with our 

Grenache focus makes us a unique yet very accessible wine 

destination,” says majority shareholder Oubaas van Zyl. 

Grenache aside, Piekenierskloof’s top-scoring wines in the 

Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge included the 


SOUTH AFRICA 


After almost two decades at Durbanville wine estate Meerendal, Liza 

Goodwin is now the winemaker at Fryer’s Cove 

Chardonnay 2020 (93 points) and the Johan van Zyl 

Old Vine Pinotage 2018 (92). 

Some 150 km north-west of Citrusdal, near the Atlantic 

Ocean seaside town of Doring Bay, what once seemed an 

“impossible dream” has become an exciting reality for 

local farmer Jan van Zyl and his father, Ponk, who were 

inspired by the wines of Marlborough in New Zealand to 

plant vines 500 m from the sea. Arid conditions meant 

they first had to dig a 30 km pipeline to the closest source 

of freshwater – and then they simply converted an old 

crayfish factory into a winery! “Icy seawater is pumped 

through the tanks to cool the wine during fermentation,” 

says winemaker Liza Goodwin. Goodwin – a mindset of 

ingenuity and minimalism for wines “forged of the earth, 

tempered by the sea.” 

Goodwin explains that in addition to persistent sea 

breezes, a cool blanket of mist continually deposits salt 

onto the leaves and grapes, not only preventing vineyard 

diseases but also adding a vivid minerality to the wines. 

In particular, the “superb” Pinot Noir 2018 has received 

a 93-point rating from Gilbert & Gaillard. 

After 17 vintages, Strandveld winemaker Conrad Vlok 

knows his challenging terroir intimately 

COASTAL ROADS 

South Africa’s traditional winegrowing areas are rarely 

50 km from the sea, with the cold Atlantic meeting the 

warmer Indian Ocean at Cape Agulhas, the southernmost 

tip of Africa (220 km from Cape Town). The rich natural 

biodiversity of this windswept and rugged area, believed 

to have adjoined Antarctica 330 million years ago, is 

“magical” according to Jackie Rabé, sales and marketing 

director at Strandveld Vineyards. “No modern architecture, 

galleries, pretention, traffic or light pollution; just downto-earth 

people with a passion for the harsh environment 

in which they live and farm.” 

Having now completed his 17th vintage at Strandveld, 

winemaker Conrad Vlok focuses on only a few varieties 

that can handle the extreme growing conditions. 

“Sauvignon Blanc is hands down the best-performing 

grape in our area,” he says, delighted with the 92-point 

rating from Gilbert & Gaillard for his “beautiful” 

Pofadderbos Sauvignon Blanc 2020, named after the 

eponymous puff adders often encountered here. “It’s 

the most site-specific of our wines, grown in yellow iron 


SOUTH AFRICA 


ferricrete soil. The terroir pushes the vines to their limit, 

resulting in lower yields with concentrated flavours and 

saline minerality.” 

In the hills just above the nearby seaside town of 

Gansbaai (famous for shark cage diving), Lomond 

also produces wines that capture the imagination of 

wine explorers, from two single-vineyard expressions 

of Sauvignon Blanc (named Sugarbush and Pincushion 

after endemic flowers) to the “voluptuous” Syrah-led 

Belladonna SMV 2018 (94 points). “When having a 

glass of wine next to our beautiful dam, you really get 

the feeling that you are in touch with nature,” says 

winemaker Hannes Meyer. 

David Nieuwoudt of Cederberg Private Cellar (near 

Citrusdal) was irresistibly drawn to this “extreme and 

mysterious” coastline, known for at least 130 shipwrecks, 

to make his Ghost Corner wines, with his “ageworthy” 

Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Semillon 2017 and white Bordeaux 

blend The Bowline 2018 all scoring 92 points. “I came 

to Cape Agulhas because I wanted to make the best 

Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa, and all fingers pointed 

here: the unique lime-rich soils, the wind which has a huge 

cooling effect, and enough rain so the vines aren’t stressed. 

I absolutely believe it’s the best area for Sauvignon Blanc 

but what really makes it special is the people – they are so 

down to earth and they love what they do.” 

Determined to make SA’s ultimate Sauvignon Blanc, Cederberg wine farmer 

David Nieuwoudt says all fingers pointed to Agulhas 

GARDEN ROUTE 

Some 520 km from Cape Town, on the beautiful Garden 

Route, lies the popular tourist destination of Plettenberg 

Bay. Over the past two decades, vineyards have been 

established along a 57 km strip in very diverse terrain: 

close to the Indian Ocean, at the edge of indigenous 

forests, at the base of craggy mountains, alongside 

polo fields and in view of ponies, dairy cows and even 

elephants! 

Grapes were first planted at Bramon Estate in 2001, 

when Anton Smal was lured away from Stellenbosch. 

He’s now firmly established in “Plett”, consulting to a 

number of producers including Newstead Lund Family 

Vineyards, Kay + Monty Vineyards and Bitou Vineyards. 

It was a visit to New Zealand that inspired former sugar 

and dairy farmers Doug and Sue Lund of Newstead to 

Doug and Sue Lund were inspired to make wine at Newstead 

following a visit to New Zealand 


David Nieuwoudt of Cederberg 

Private Cellar, nurturing the grapes 

for his Ghost Corner range 

Piekenierskloof majority shareholders Potgieter and Oubaas van Zyl 

An old stable block has been converted to house 

the Strandveld tasting room 

Marinda Kruger-Claassen 

Sebastian Beaumont is the 

winemaker and viticulturist at his 

family’s historic farm 

Shannon Vineyards viticulturist 

James Downes 

Raka, just inland from Stanford, 

specialises in red wine production 

A beautiful outdoor tasting area at Elgin Vineyards 

A wine farm with paddock views: Kay + Monty 

Gabriëlskloof’s experimental ‘Projects’ 

range

SOUTH AFRICA 


plant vines here, finding the geography and cool climate 

comparable – the temperatures, sunlight hours and nighttime 

breezes especially favourable for Sauvignon Blanc, 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “There is something special 

about such a young wine route,” they say. “We’re witnessing 

the beginning of something and it’s very romantic.” 

Newstead’s wines – and in particular its traditionalmethod 

sparkling wines – have put Plettenberg Bay on 

the fine wine map in recent years, with recent accolades 

including a 94-point Gilbert & Gaillard rating for the 

“finessed” Newstead Méthode Cap Classique Brut 2015 

and 92 for the “refined and layered” Sauvignon Blanc. 

At Kay + Monty, the late Chick Legh’s polo and wine 

estate overlooking horse paddocks towards a nature 

reserve, an old greenhouse has been transformed into 

a tasting room restaurant with rustic charm, described 

as “the perfect place to unwind with a glass of delicious 

wine” (such as the SAV Sauvignon Blanc 2019 with 

90 points). 

At Bitou the playing fields were completely converted 

to vineyards in 2008, while the old stable block was 

transformed into a new cellar only last year. Here, one 

of only two bottle-fermented Sauvignon Blancs in South 

Africa is produced, the Méthode Cap Classique Brut 2017 

achieving a 91-point rating while the “fragrant and layered” 

off-dry Sauvignon Blanc 2020 scored 90. Says general 

assistant Tanya Pretorius: “The Garden Route is well known 

for its big tourist attractions, and with the boutique wine 

estates coming along, what more can one ask for?” 

Plettenberg Bay winegrowing expert Anton Smal oversees 

production for Newstead Lund Family Vineyards, Bitou 

Vineyards and Kay + Monty Vineyards 

WORTH STOPPING 

To reach Plettenberg Bay from Cape Town, you take the 

N2 highway, which winds over Sir Lowry’s Pass to the 

Elgin Valley, a cool upland amphitheatre cradled between 

the Hottentots-Holland and Kogelberg mountains. 

Just 60 km from Cape Town, with arguably the most 

“continental” climate in the Cape winelands, Elgin is one 

of South Africa’s largest exporters of deciduous fruit. In 

recent years it has also become famous for its cool-climate 

wines, but in no way has it become commercialised. 

“It is a beautiful valley that people easily miss as they 

speed along the N2,” says Marinda Kruger-Claassen, 

business manager/winemaker at Elgin Vintners on 

For Bitou general assistant Tanya Pretorius, a love of horses 

has evolved into a passion for wine 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Marinda Kruger-Claassen, business manager/ 

winemaker at Elgin Vintners 

All vineyard work is done by hand at Gabriëlskloof, whose employment 

approach is driven by uplifting the local Bot River community 

Ridgelands farm, which dates back to 1890. “Here, 

visitors can experience warm country hospitality at its 

best.” 

Asked to describe her wines, she says she aims for 

“complexity, finesse and elegance” – and certainly Gilbert 

& Gaillard found her Pinot Noir 2019 “delicate and 

integrated” (95 points) and her Chardonnay 2020 “full 

but floral and finessed” (92 points). 

While the Burgundian varieties have put Elgin on the 

map, along with Sauvignon Blanc, there is a farm that 

needs to be highlighted for its benchmark Merlot, namely 

family-owned Shannon Vineyards on the banks of the 

Palmiet River with its swirling morning mist. Here, the 

Downes brothers, viticulturist James and marketer Stuart, 

are committed to expressing their terroir in “complex, 

structured, elegant” wines. Tastings are by appointment 

only, but their Mount Bullet Merlot 2017 is definitely 

worth tasting (95 points). “It sets us apart from the rest 

of the valley and has done incredibly well for us, locally 

and internationally.” 

From Elgin, the N2 descends via the Houw Hoek pass to the 

rolling hills of Bot River, an appellation stretching down to 

the Bot River lagoon. This is “where real people make real 

wine” (the local credo) with Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and other 

Rhone varieties faring particularly well on the Bokkeveld 

shale and Table Mountain sandstone soils. 

Among the eclectic mix of cellars loved for their 

handcrafted wines and rustic charm is family-run 

Beaumont Wines. Historic Compagnes Drift farm was 

purchased in 1974 by the late Raoul Beaumont and his 

wife, Jayne (still actively involved) but son Sebastian 

is now in charge as winemaker/viticulturist, his overall 

philosophy being “elegance over power”. Gilbert & 

Gaillard particularly liked his “perfumed and refined” 

Mourvèdre 2017 (93 points) and his “wow” Hope 

Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2019, awarding it 95 points. 

At relative newcomer Gabriëlskloof, too, their aim 

is to make “elegant and honest wines that leave a 

lasting impression”, their Landscape Series showcasing 

their top vineyard sites, their Projects Range allowing 

experimentation with alternative fermentation and 

ageing methods (e.g. 89 points for their “balanced” 

Wholebunch Syrah 2019). 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Raka proprietors Elna and Piet Dreyer (centre) with their four children Jorika, Josef, Gerhard and Pieter 

KEEP GOING 

Bot River is the gateway to Walker Bay, where Southern Right 

whales frolic every spring. The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near 

Hermanus is renowned for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but 

those wanting to experience something new should keep 

driving to the hamlet of Stanford. “Stanford is very laid back 

but we have 10 wineries, five within a 2 km radius of the 

town,” says David Smit, winemaker/viticulturist at Walker 

Bay Estate. “We have the best views of all the wineries, with 

rolling lawns overlooking the Kleinrivier Mountain, and 

arguably the best wines too!” (He is biased, of course, but his 

‘excellent’ Chardonnay 2017 impressed Gilbert & Gaillard 

with 94 points.) 

Red wine lovers are advised to visit Raka where the entire 

Dreyer family is involved, with brothers Josef (winemaker) 

and Pieter (viticulturist) proud of a 93-point rating for their 

Shiraz 2018. Responsible for marketing, their sister Jorika 

says: “We as a family enjoy good-quality red wine and if we 

don’t enjoy drinking it, we will not produce and bottle it – 

that is our way of quality control!” Their father Piet was a 

squid fisherman before establishing Raka, which is why they 

describe it as “Born of the sea, guided by the stars, blessed by 

the earth.” 

Whether you choose to navigate the South African winelands 

by the stars or satnav, you are sure to be rewarded with 

exciting discoveries. Start here: www.visitwinelands.co.za. 


The layout of Leeuwenkuil’s ‘werf’ (farmyard) is exactly the same as it was in the early 1700s 

SOUTH AFRICA 

– PORTRAIT – 

Gateway to the Swartland 

Producing award-winning wines from exceptional grapes, Leeuwenkuil Family 

Vineyards has a long and proud history – and a focus on the future. 

By Joanne Gibson – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Leeuwenkuil owners Willie and Emma Dreyer, whose ancestors returned to 

Leeuwenkuil seven generations ago 

In recent years the Swartland has emerged as one of South Africa’s 

most exciting wine appellations, but its southernmost farm, 

Leeuwenkuil, dates all the way back to 1693. With views of Table 

Mountain to the south-west, the farm’s name translates as Lion’s 

Lair, in honour of the ferocious wild animals that used to roam 

these parts, but its original name was Schinderkuijl, referring to the 

practice of salvaging materials from shipwrecks. While the farmhouse 

was mostly built using stone, the lintels above its doors were sourced 

from a ship’s hull. 

Remarkably, the ‘werf’ or farmyard is still the same as it was in 1704, 

when it was owned by Arie van Wyk who planted 8,000 vines and soon 

made a living selling wine and bread (200 loaves a day!) to travellers 

trekking further inland. Even more remarkably, the current owners 

are directly descended from Van Wyk, whose daughter Sara married a 

German immigrant named Johannes Augustus Dreyer. Although the 

Dreyer family moved away from the Swartland for a few generations, 

they returned in 1851. 

Today, seventh-generation owner Willie Dreyer and his wife Emma 

have developed Leeuwenkuil from a small 45-hectare farm to the largest 

vineyard holdings in South Africa! “When we took over the farm, we 

had no money but we were young and fearless,” laughs Dreyer. “Our 

friends talked about buying new cars; we talked about investing in new 

clones. We ploughed all our money into the land. Today we have over 

1,200 hectares of vineyard, mainly dryland, with 35% grown as bush 

vines. But that does not make us the biggest producer, because yields 

are fairly low in the Swartland.” 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Willie Dreyer takes a quick coffee break during the harvest at Leeuwenkuil 

Head winemaker Pieter Carstens firmly believes in a 

natural approach to winemaking 

Highly regarded for the exceptional quality of his grapes, 

Dreyer is fully committed to sustainable growing practices, 

with one of his vineyards – Langvlei – certified as organic. 

“I’m merely a custodian of this land for my children,” 

says the proud father of five (Anné, Francisce, Helanzi, 

Jonike and Willie Jnr). “Our philosophy is a simple one: 

put in the hard work and let nature do the rest. Our 

grapes are farmed without herbicides or pesticides, and 

left to grow with minimal human interference, allowing 

natural expressions of our unique Swartland terroir 

to emerge.” 

To this day, Leeuwenkuil sells most of its fruit to other 

wineries, but in 2008 the Dreyers took the decision to 

start making and selling wine themselves. From humble 

beginnings, renting cellar space, their winemaking team 

led by Pieter Carstens steadily built up a reputation for 

crafting intriguing, memorable and ultimately awardwinning 

wines. However, their dream was always to have 

their own cellar at the farm, and with the 2021 harvest 

this has finally become a reality, their methodically 

thought-out new winery processing some 15,000 tons. 

Where many South African wine producers are facing 

tough times, with millions of litres of wine unsold 

following the government’s series of bans on local alcohol 

consumption during Covid-19 lockdowns, Leeuwenkuil 

is in a relatively strong position because most of its wine 

is exported. “We feel very fortunate,” says Dreyer. 

When asked which Leeuwenkuil wines connoisseurs 

should look for, Dreyer answers: “We grow many 

varieties, including the biggest block of Pinotage in the 

world (49 hectares), but for Leeuwenkuil our focus is 

on old-vine Chenin Blanc and Syrah, and blends based 

on them. These are the cultivars our region can really 

brag about.” 

Not that the Dreyers ever brag. Instead, they credit 

Carstens, their passionate head winemaker, and the MD 

of their cellar, Kobus de Kock, who sometimes has to rein 

Carstens in when he gets carried away with new ideas. 

“The balance in the team is good.” 

They conclude by saying: “Every glass of wine tells a story. 

A story of its terroir, of droughts, storms, struggles and 

surprises. And we can’t wait to write the next chapter.” 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

Stanley Tucci: 

A lover of wine and Italy 

Stanley Tucci is an American actor, director, producer and scriptwriter specialising in 

“geeky” roles. Born in 1960 in Peekskill, near New York, he began his film and television 

career in the 1980s and over the next decade, he made his mark in numerous supporting 

roles and also starred in the legal drama Murder One. He garnered international acclaim 

with blockbuster films including ‘The Devil Wears Prada’, ‘Julie and Julia’ and ‘Lovely 

Bones’. His latest screen appearances are in ‘Supernova’, where he falls in love with... 

Colin Firth, and a cooking documentary for CNN. 

Interview by Frank Rousseau, our correspondent in the United States 

Photographs: all rights reserved 

You recently featured on the American network CNN in a 

very ‘appetising’ mini-documentary food series, ‘Searching 

for Italy’, which is also available on YouTube for those who 

want to travel from their armchair. For several weeks, you 

travelled across Italy tasting the specialities of Tuscany, 

Sicily, Rome, Bologna, Naples and the Amalfi coast. Tell us 

about the experience... 

I come from a family of Italian immigrants and I am very proud 

of my heritage. Food has always been an obsession for me. When 

I am at the market, at the dinner table or in the kitchen, all my 

senses come alive. I have to taste, smell, touch, etc. Basically, I run 

around all over the place and stick out like a big stain of fresh 

tomato sauce on a newly starched white napkin! (laughs) 

You have also written recipe books... 

Some of the recipes come from my grandparents, who were 

born in Calabria. I remember that we didn’t often go out to 

restaurants because our family was broke. So we would stay at 

home and prepare simple, cheap meals with really tasty fresh 

produce. Like Uova fra diavolo - poached eggs in a marinara 

sauce. Every Friday evening my father would make us this for 

dinner. Honestly, I could have eaten it every day! 

And your first connection with wine? 

My father had a big wine press in his basement. Beside it were 

also two old oak barrels. Every year he made his own wine 

which we drank from small glasses. I remember him decanting 

his wine into a carafe that dated back to the 1920s! 


STARS 

– & WINE – 

What is your favourite wine? 

Marchesa Gavi Gold Label, from Piedmont. I also enjoy 

wines from Tuscany and Sardinia. Chianti never lets you 

down either. I also like Californian Chardonnays and 

wines from Burgundy. I have nothing against Argentinean 

reds and as far as whites go, I tend to serve myself glasses 

of Pinot Grigio and Chablis. 

Was there one wine, above all the others, that pleasantly 

surprised your discerning palate during filming of 

your food documentary? 

In the episode focusing on Sicily, I was lucky enough to meet 

Arianna Occhipinti, a Nero d’Avola organic winegrower 

who specialises in Frappato. She runs a small estate and 

her wines are very traditional and made with love, which 

you can feel! Sicily is the poorest region in Italy and is 

unfortunately not very well known yet for the quality of its 

wines, despite the fact that they are remarkable. 

What was the main thing you learnt when you hosted 

your ‘Vine Talk’ show? 

The aim of the programme was to promote wine from 

different aspects. How to buy it, choose it, taste it, uncork 

it, savour it and above all make people understand that 

this is not just a world for connoisseurs. Every week, we 

would present a new wine region and taste wines blind. 

We’d also invite a celebrity and a sommelier so that they 

could share their common passion with us! 

Are you the type to collect outstanding vintages in a 

firmly locked cellar? 

I’m not a big spender when it comes to buying wine. 

I come from a family that used to live from hand to 

mouth. I understand the value of money only too well. 

Saying that, I can buy good wines but when I do, I don’t 

have the patience to wait. I uncork them as soon as I get 

a good opportunity to do so! 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

SOUTH WEST – PAGES 10 – 23 

• Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy: 

Tel. +33 05 53 58 41 20 - 

www.moulin-pouzy.com 

• Vinovalie: Tel. +33 05 63 57 18 10 - 

www.vinovalie.com 

• Mas des Combes: Tel. +33 5 63 57 06 13 - 

https://remilarroque.com/ 

• Plaimont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 62 87 - 

www.plaimont.com 

• Brumont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 74 67 - 

https://www.brumont.fr 

• Laffitte brothers: 

www.lesfrereslaffitte.com 

RHONE VALLEY – PAGES 24 – 33 

• Domaine de la Présidente: 

Tel. +33 4 90 30 80 34 - 

s.gauthier@presidente.fr - 

• Château Sixtine: Tel. : +33 4 90 83 70 51 - 

jm.diffonty@chateau-sixtine.com 

• Domaine de Montine: 

Tel. +33 4 75 46 54 21 - 

contact@domainedemontine.fr - 

www.domaine-de-montine.com 

• Domaine des Gravennes: 

Tel. +33 4 75 04 84 41 - 

contact@domainesdesgravennes.com 

• Domaine Lucien Tramier: 

Tel. +33 6 44 30 97 41 - 

marty@lucientramier.fr 

• Domaine de la Présidente: 

Tel. +33 4 90 30 80 34 - 

s.gauthier@presidente.fr 

• Maison Chapoutier: 

cchapoutier@chapoutier.com - 

www.chapoutier.com 

CHAMPAGNE – PAGES 34 – 41 

• Champagne Vignon Père & Fils: 

Tel. +33 3 26 49 80 39 - 

www.champagne-vignon.com 

• Champagne Sadi Malot: 

Tel. +33 3 26 97 90 48 - 

www.champagne-sadi-malot.com 

• Champagne Madame Raymonde: 

Tel. +33 6 40 53 93 68 - 

https://www.madame-raymonde.fr 

• La Pitancerie Champagne J.A Dautel: 

Tel. +33 3 25 29 39 07 - 

www.champagne-lapitancerie.com 

• Champagne Virginie T.: 

Tel. +33 6 86 30 75 81 - 

https://www.champagnevirginiet.com/ 

• Champagne G. Tribaut: 

+33 3 26 59 40 57 - https://champagnetribaut-hautvillers.com 

• Champagne Alain Vesselle: 

Tel. +33 3 26 57 00 88 - 

www.champagne-alainvesselle.fr 

BORDEAUX – PAGES 42 – 49 

• Vignobles Dulon : Tel. +33 5 56 23 69 16 - 

www.vignobles-dulon.com 

• Antoine Médeville Labo Oenoconseil 

Pauillac: Tel. +33 5 56 59 67 06 - 

https://www.oenoconseil.com/pauillac.html 

• Altervini: Tel. +33 5 57 77 25 00 - 

mviolleau@altervini.com 

• Famille Ducourt: Tel. 33 5 57 34 54 00 - 

www.ducourt.com 

• Château des Landes: 

Tel. +33 5 57 74 68 05 - 

http://chateau-des-landes.fr/ 

ALSACE – PAGES 50 – 57 

• Maison Charles Frey: 

Tel. +33 3 88 92 41 04 - 

www.charles-frey.fr 

• Domaine Wach: Tel. +33 3 88 08 93 20 - 

http://www.guy-wach.fr 

• Domaine Huber & Bléger: 

Tel. +33 3 89 73 01 12 - 

www.huber-bleger.fr 

• Wunsch & Mann: Tel. + 33 3 89 22 91 25 - 

www.wunsch-mann.fr 

• Domaine Schmitt & Carrer: 

Tel. +33 3 89 78 24 17 - 

www.schmitt-carrer.com 

• Domaines Schlumberger: 

+33 3 89 74 27 00 - 

www.domaines-schlumberger.fr 

• Domaine Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur: 

Tel. +33 3 89 47 10 64 - 

www.domaine-heitzmann.com 

• Domaine Edmond Rentz: 

Tel. +33 3 89 47 90 17 - 

www.edmondrentz.com 

FRUIT BRANDIES PAGES 58-65 

• Distillerie Mazy: Tel. +33 6 87 23 56 65 - 

https://distillerie-mazy.fr 

• Distillerie Hagmeyer: 

Tel. +33 3 88 50 38 99 - 

www.distillerie-hagmeyer.com 

• Distillerie JP Metté: Tel. +33 3 89 73 65 88 - 

https://distillerie-mette.com 

• Calvados Drouin: Tel. +33 2 31 64 30 05 - 

www.calvados-drouin.com 

SPAIN – PAGES 66 – 73 

• Bodegas Alceño Jumilla: 

Tel. +34 968 78 01 42 - https://alceno.com 

• Bodegas Arloren: Tel. +34 966 97 60 29 - 

facebook.com/bodegas.arloren - 

http://www.arloren.es/ 

• Bodegas Bleda: +34 968 78 00 12 - 

https://www.bodegasbleda.com 

• Bodegas Castaño: Tel. +34 968 79 11 15 - 

https:/www.bodegascastano.com 

• Bodegas La Purísima: Tel. +34 968 751 257 - 

https:/www.bodegaslapurisima.com 

• Bodegas Murviedro: Tel. +34 96 232 90 03 - 

https://murviedro.es/ 

PORTUGAL – PAGES 74 – 81 

• DFJ Vinhos: Tel. +351 243 704 701/5 - 

https://dfjvinhos.com/ 

• Anselmo Mendes: Tel. +351 919 807 407 - 

www.anselmomendes.pt 


CONTACT 

– DETAILS – 

• Cantanhede: Tel. +351 231 419 540 - 

https://www.cantanhede.com 

ITALY – PAGES 82 – 92 

• Isolabella Della Croce: Tel. +39 0144 87166 - 

www.isolabelladellacroce.it 

• Vinchio Vaglio: Tel. +39 0141 950903 - 

https://vinchio.com 

• Marenco Vini: Tel. +39 0144 363133 - 

www.marencovini.com 

• Casa Vinicola Abbazia: www.abbazia.it 

• F.Lii Martini Secondo Luigi: 

Tel. +39 0141 837211 - 

www.fratellimartini.it 

• Bosio Family Estates: Tel. +39 0141 847149 - 

www.bosiofamilyestates.it 

UNITED KINGDOM – PAGE 93 

• Boutinot wines: Tel. +44 161 908 1300 - 

www.boutinot.com 

ITALY – PAGES 94 – 99 

• Schenk wine: Tel. +41 21 822 02 02 - 

https://www.schenk-wine.com 

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 100 – 107 

• Beaumont Family Wines: 

Tel. +27 28 284 9194 - www.beaumont.co.za 

• Bitou Vineyards: Tel. +27 82 927 6179 - 

www.bitouvineyards.co.za 

• Elgin Vintners: Tel. +27 21 848 9587 - 

www.elginvintners.co.za 

• Fryer’s Cove: Tel. +27 27 215 1092 - 

www.fryerscove.co.za 

• Gabriëlskloof: Tel. +27 28 284 9865 - 

www.gabrielskloof.co.za 

• Ghost Corner Wines: Tel. +27 27 482 2827 - 

www.ghostcornerwines.com 

• Kay + Monty Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 79 965 9779 - 

www.kayandmonty.com 

• Lomond Cape Agulhas Wines: 

Tel. +27 28 388 0095 - www.lomond.co.za 

• Newstead Lund Family Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 76 300 9740 - 

www.newsteadwines.com 

• Piekenierskloof Wines: 

Tel. +27 22 921 2233 - 

www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za 

• Raka: Tel. +27 28 341 0676 - 

www.rakawine.co.za 

• Shannon Vineyards: Tel. +27 21 859 2491 - 

www.shannonwines.com 

• Strandveld Vineyards: Tel. +27-28-482-1902 - 

www.strandveld.co.za 

• Walker Bay Estate: Tel. +27 28 341 0013 - 

www.walkerbayestate.com 

Wine Route Websites 

• Agulhas Wine Triangle: 

www.agulhaswinetriangle.co.za 

• Bot River: www.botriverwines.co.za 

• Elgin: http://elgingrabouw.co.za 

• Plettenberg Bay: www.plettwinelands.com 

• Stanford: www.stanfordinfo.co.za 

• West Coast: 

www.westcoastwineroutes.co.za 

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 108 – 110 

• Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards: 

Tel. +27 21 869 8251 - 

www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, 

François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, Jamal Awni 

Rayyis, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier, 

Charlie Elaina, Joanne Gibson, Santiago Jiménez, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau, 

Alexandra Réveillon, Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora. 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Rosa Almeida - CS Traduções, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: 

Frédéric Comet: +33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon: 

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: 

Sandra Sirvente: (+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: 

Thibault Leray: (+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: +33 1 34 62 89 30 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: +33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: Petru Van der walt, General 

Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - petru@gilbertgaillard.com - 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

Head of entries for France: Martin Guerrero : +33 7 76 69 90 24 - 

mguerrero@gilbertgaillard.com 

International Distribution: 

Pineapple Media Ltd - http://www.pineapple-media.com 

For more information, please contact Ana Gisbert: 

ana@pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal 

representative and Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: First quarter 2021 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762 

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given 

for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


OUR SELECTION FROM 

Pages 

116 to 122 

TOP 

WINES 

— ALSACE, CHAMPAGNE, PIEDMONT, MURCIA, VALENCIA, WESTERN CAPE — 

The best of Spring 2021 

Our Spring 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 116 

to 122. We have chosen to present wines by region (ALSACE, CHAMPAGNE...), then by 

appellation in each region, with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and 

finally by tasting scores in descending order. 

THE TASTING PANEL 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

FRANCE 

Philippe Gaillard 

Olivier Delorme 

James Turnbull 

François Gilbert 

SOUTH AFRICA 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Sylvain Patard 

Matthieu Gaillard 

François Bezuidenhout 

Wine scores 

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives enough range to evaluate every 

characteristic that we taste in a wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring: 

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets exceptional winemaking expertise. 

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and remarkable winemaking. 

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its typicity and character. 

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for a pleasurable wine drinking experience. 

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable. 

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable. 

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible. 

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale. 

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications. 

SPRING 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 115

FRANCE - Alsace 

BS_CUVEES_G&G_N°43_Mise en page 1 29/03/2021 11:20 Page 1 

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER 

90/100 

■ Muscat 2019 

D Pale gold with brilliant reflections. Nose of fresh 

grape, pear, sweet spices and honey. The palate is 

fresh and refreshing, driven by crisp fruit and revealing 

saline notes with fine sourness on the finish. This 

is a beautifully crafted Muscat. Price: € 8.30 

PRESENTATION : Marcel Huber and his cousin Robert 

Bléger teamed up in 1967 to establish their estate in 

Saint-Hippolyte, at the foot of the celebrated Château 

du Haut-Koenigsbourg. Seven traditional local grape 

varieties form the backbone of their thirty-hectare 

vineyard, producing over 250,000 bottles a year. The 

property is currently run by Sébastien Huber and Franck 

Bléger who have added their own personal touch, 

including environmental stewardship. They pick the fruit 

by hand and use grass cover and tillage, all of which 

has earned them sustainable vineyard management 

certification since 1999, subsequently endorsed by 

Terra Vitis then HVE (High Environmental Value) in 2018. 

The property crafts clearly defined, very pure wines with 

this dry Muscat the unquestionable flagship of their 

range. 

Tel.: +33 3 89 73 01 12 

E-mail: domaine@huber-bleger.fr 

Website: http://www.huber-bleger.fr 

OUR SELECTION OF 

ALSACE WINES 

Spring is definitely in the air with two 

novel varieties well worth rediscovering: 

Muscat, of which there are few examples 

in the region (2% of production) and 

Pinot noir (10%), a good share of which 

is used to make rosé Crémant d’Alsace. 

ALSACE GRAND CRU MUSCAT 

FALLER 87/100 

D Kirchberg 2019: Brilliant pale hue with green 

tints. Appealing nose combining fresh grape, lychee 

and apricot. Soft attack flowing into a fresh, sleek, 

focused palate with confident expression, delivering 

floral and spice notes. Lovely compelling silky feel. 

Price: € 19 

http://www.vins-faller-robert.fr 

Robert Faller et Fils 

+33 3 89 73 60 47 

ALSACE MUSCAT 

EDMOND RENTZ 89/100 

D Vieilles Vignes 2019: Brilliant light gold. Generous 

nose of fresh grape with a faint tropical touch. A supple 

attack is followed by a soft, ample, juicy palate where 

the quality nose aromas flow through. A wine delivering 

a welcome sense of harmony well worth trying with 

asparagus. 

Price: € 9 

http://www.edmondrentz.com 

Edmond Rentz 

+33 3 89 47 90 17 

ROBERT KLINGENFUS 89/100 

D Clos des Chartreux 2018: Light straw-yellow. 

Expressive nose combining fresh grape and fine floral 

touches. The palate is plump, tense, dry and light and 

gradually unfurls a beautiful array of fine spice and 

citrus aromatics. Very precise and energetic. Drink with 

elaborate appetisers. 

Price: € 14 

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com/ 

Domaine Robert Klingenfus 

+33 3 88 38 07 06 

THIERRY-MARTIN 85/100 

D Cuvée Elise 2018: Light straw-gold. Pleasant 

nose combining fresh grape, grapefruit and a floral 

accent. Supple attack followed by a soft, plump, 

energetic palate delivering clear, lifted aromas. This is 

a lovely, easy-going wine that makes a great choice 

for the aperitif. 

Price: € 6.90 

http://www.thierry-martin.com 

Thierry-Martin 

+33 3 88 04 11 22 

ALSACE PINOT NOIR 

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 91/100 

D Stein 2017: Mature brown highlights. Spicy 

oak on the nose with jammy morello cherry and wild 

strawberry notes. Full-bodied palate with an inviting 

array of red fruits, polished tannins and subtle oak 

influence in this refined Alsace red wine. 

Price: € 26.40 

http://www.domaines-schlumberger.com 


+33 3 89 74 27 00 

DOMAINE CHARLES FREY 90/100 

ORG D F 2017: Fairly deep garnet with bricking. 

Elegant nose combining sour cherry, floral notes, 

undergrowth and a mineral touch. Velvety, rich, lively 

palate framed by silky tannins. The mid-palate is 

suffused with delicate spice. An easy-drinking, fine, 

precise and very successful wine. 

Price: € 30 

http://www.vinsfreybio.com 

Maison Charles Frey 

+33 3 88 92 41 04 

DOMAINE LÉON HEITZMANN 90/100 

ORG D Cuvée Anne-Marie 2017: Deep garnet 

with some bricking. Rich, ripe nose combining morello 

cherry, black fruits, fine spices and elegant oakiness. 

Smooth, concentrated, gratifying palate revealing 

splendidly intense spice and fruit aromas. Taut yet also 

full. 

Price: € 16 

http://www.leon-heitzmann.com 

Léon Heitzmann 

+33 3 89 47 10 64 

DOMAINE SCHMITT ET CARRER 90/100 

ORG D Schloessel Mühle 2018: Beautiful dark 

hue with amber tints. Generous nose delivering a 

combination of prune, morello cherry, fine spices, hay 

and subtle oak. Lovely volume on the palate for this 

robust wine with welcome concentration and wonderful 

deep, iodine-like and spice aromas. An ambitious, 

successful offering. 

Price: € 18.50 

http://www.schmitt-carrer.com 

Domaine Schmitt et Carrer 

+33 3 89 78 24 17 

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 90/100 

D Les Princes Abbés 2017: Light red with garnetbrown 

reflections. Nose of ripe cherries and wild 

strawberries. The palate displays suppleness woven 

around a beautiful crisp, ripe fruit core. Polished tannins 

and satisfying length. Delicate varietal expression. 

Price: € 15.50 

http://www.domaines-schlumberger.com 


+33 3 89 74 27 00 

EDMOND RENTZ 90/100 

D Tradition 2019: Deep garnet-red. Alluring nose 

offering up a mix of sour cherry, forest floor and smoke. 

116 SPRING 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

FRANCE - Champagne 

Pinot noir accounts for approximately 10% of 

Alsace’s vineyards. 

Ample, robust, lively palate displaying lovely pure 

aromatics, an elegant structure still, spice and menthol 

accents and substantial freshness. 

Price: € 9.10 

http://www.edmondrentz.com 

Edmond Rentz 

+33 3 89 47 90 17 


D Terre Rouge 2018: Deep ruby. Promising 

nose of morello cherry with herbal, spicy and smoke 

notes. Delicate menthol-like, silky, fresh attack then a 

harmoniously crafted palate with flavourful purity and 

finesse. Mineral, intense and persistent. Wonderful to 

savour. 

Price: € 15 

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com 


+33 3 88 38 07 06 

DOMAINE KLEIN BRAND 88/100 

D Prestige 2018: Bright garnet with ruby highlights. 

Inviting nose of morello cherry and undergrowth with a 

touch of blackcurrant. Fresh palate displaying fullness, 

structure and savoury, intense aromatics showing spice 

overtones. Consistent and balanced. In a nutshell, a 

very successful Pinot. 

Price: Price: N/A 

https://www.klein-brand.fr/fr 

Domaine Klein Brand 

+33 3 89 47 00 08 


ORG D Dar Wine 2019: Brilliant orangy hue with 

coppery highlights. Generous nose intermixing cherry, 

gingerbread and a floral note. Sleek, fresh, satisfying 

palate with lovely focused, genuine expression and a 

ripe, persistent finish. A great artisanal rosé. 

Price: € 10 



+33 3 89 47 10 64 

DOMAINE CHARLES FREY 87/100 

ORG D Harmonie 2019: Pale red with bricking. 

Pleasant nose combining sour cherry with spice notes 

and a touch of undergrowth. Harmoniously structured 

palate delivering a measure of fullness, elegance and 

aromatic precision. A savoury wine pairing with poultry. 

Price: € 12 

http://www.vinsfreybio.com 

Maison Charles Frey 

+33 3 88 92 41 04 


ORG D Les Katz - Salem 2019: Clear ruby. 

Appealing nose marrying sour cherry, raspberry, fine 

spices and a floral note. Fresh, rich, structured palate 

delivering a generous array of juicy flavours. Spicy, 

herbal mid-palate and silky tannins. An intense, focused 

and appealing wine. 

Price: € 10 



+33 3 89 47 10 64 

DOMAINE WACH 87/100 

D Spleen 2018: Cherry-red with ruby reflections. 

Nose of ripe red and black berry fruits with noble 

herbal presence of flowers and wood. Supple palate 

showing lightweight concentration and fresh, crunchy 

fruit. A wine with life and drive for sharing and fun 

times. 

Price: € 9.50 

http://www.guy-wach.fr 

Domaine Wach 

+33 3 88 08 93 20 


CR D Signature 2018: Bright garnet with dark 

purple tinges. Expressive nose of morello cherry and 

raspberry with jammy and spicy nuances. Smooth 

attack, lovely fresh, elegant, consistent mouthfeel. Great 

clarity, richness and light structure. Beautiful. 

Price: € 10 

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com 


+33 3 88 38 07 06 

WUNSCH & MANN 87/100 

ORG D Clos Rosalys 2018: Deep ruby with dark 

purple glints. Expressive nose intermixing raspberry, 

morello cherry and an animal touch. The palate is 

charming with a light, supple, fresh style, lifted, precise 

aromas and intensity. Pairs with red meats. 

Price: € 15.90 

http://www.wunsch-mann.fr 

Maison Wunsch & Mann 

+33 3 89 22 91 25 

HUBER & BLÉGER 85/100 

CR D St-Hippolyte Rouge 2018: The colour is 

halfway between ruby and garnet. The nose shows 

accents of venison, undergrowth and jammy fruits. The 

palate is chewy, fairly warm and dense and reveals 

intense, terroir-driven aromatics. Fruit is more forward 

on the finish. This is an Alsace that needs to come 

round. 

Price: € 8.80 

http://www.huber-bleger.fr 

Huber & Bléger 

+33 3 89 73 01 12 


CHAMPAGNES 

Either newly-minted brands or ambitious 

winegrowers, these labels offer remarkable 

value for money. 

CHAMPAGNE ALAIN VESSELLE 92/100 

D Brut grand cru Cuvée Saint Eloi : Brilliant pale 

gold. Clear suggestions of cherries and raspberries 

on the nose. The palate is elegant and chiselled with 

sustained freshness and extremely elegant aromas. 

Lovely saline touch on the finish. 

Price: € 25 


Champagne Alain Vesselle 

+33 3 26 57 00 88 

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT 92/100 

D Brut 1er cru Grande Cuvée Spéciale : Beautiful 

light yellow. Delicate nose combining white flowers, 

a subtle lemony note and mineral undertones. Ample, 

ethereal attack supported by a fine yet evident texture. 

Lovely trace of firmness on the finish tinged with aromas 

recalling fresh wood. 

Price: € 24.50 

https://champagne-tribaut-hautvillers.com/fr/ 

Champagne G. Tribaut 

+33 3 26 59 40 57 

CHAMPAGNE PETIT & BAJAN 92/100 

D Brut grand cru Ambrosie : Beautiful light gold. 

Compelling fruity nose which is quite intense and yields 

an impression of freshness. Wonderful character on 

the palate for this fresh, vinous, fleshy Champagne 

revealing a mineral and saline touch on the finish. A 

very racy offering for festive meals. 

Price: € 37 

http://champagne-petit-et-bajan.fr 

Champagne Petit & Bajan 

+33 3 26 52 79 97 


D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru Obsidienne : Pale 

gold. Very pure nose of red berry fruits with a touch 

of biscuit. The palate is vinous, fresh and fleshy. A 

highly expressive Champagne that would work with 

sweetbreads on festive occasions. 

Price: € 46 



+33 3 26 52 79 97 

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS 92/100 

D Extra brut grand cru Les Marquises : Beautiful 

brilliant pale gold. Very expressive, charming nose 

accented by jammy fruits and bread crust. The palate 

is structured and fresh with crystalline aromas. The 

finish is long, saline and suffused with sense of place. 

Remarkable. 

https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/ 

Champagne Vignon Père & Fils 

+33 06 83 05 43 90 

SPRING 2021 – GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 117

FRANCE - Champagne 


CHAMPAGNE VIGNON 

PÈRE & FILS 

92/100 

■ Extra brut grand cru Réserve des Marquises 2015 

D Pale yellow. Complex, evolving nose marrying notes 

of ripe fruits and toast. The palate is very clean and 

forthright and offers up wonderful aromatic intensity and 

delicious salinity on the finish. A Champagne for gourmet 

foods. Price: € N.C. 

PRESENTATION: The family has lived in Verzenay, in the 

heart of the Montagne de Reims for centuries, but only 

began making Champagne again in 1946. Today, 

Stéphane Vignon, (third generation winemaker), is ensuring 

the future of Champagne Vignon with a passion, rigour 

and respect for the vineyards . "Let the Wine and Nature 

decide" are the key words here of a signature style and 

identity. The Champagnes are single-vineyard and all 

grown on Grand Cru sites and produced with the 

minimum intervention possible. A majority of the wines 

spend time in barrels, some made with timber from 

family owned forests, using natural yeasts with no fining 

or filtering. These are authentic Champagnes of an 

exceptionally high standard – the six labels tasted in 

2020 were rated from 90 to 92/100. 

Tel.: +33 06 83 05 43 90 

E-mail: vignon.marquises@orange.fr 

Website: https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/ 


D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Nuit Blanche : 

Clear light yellow. Fruity nose with upfront acidity and 

richer undertones accented by pastries. The palate 

is savoury, velvety and displays wonderfully pure 

aromatics. The nose aromas flow through to the finish. 

Price: € 44 



+33 3 26 52 79 97 


D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Rochelles-Potences 

2016: Beautiful brilliant, clear light gold. Expressive, 

mineral nose with white fruit tones after airing. The 

palate displays fairly complex characters, lushness, ripe 

pear tones and a long saline finish. 

Price: N/A 



+33 06 83 05 43 90 


D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru Les Espérances 

2016: Light yellow. Nose of fairly ripe red berry fruits. 

The palate is beautifully elegant and airy with sweet 

spice and red fruit aromas. This is a food-friendly 

Champagne pairing with, say, poultry. 

Price: N/A 



+33 06 83 05 43 90 


D Extra brut grand cru rosé Les Vignes Goisses 

2015: Beautiful light pink. Compelling nose of ripe 

strawberry which is extremely focused. The palate is 

fruity, crisp and savoury with red fruit overtones which 

add lots of aroma and delicacy to this racy rosé 

Champagne. 

Price: N/A 



+33 06 83 05 43 90 


CR D Brut blanc de blancs 1er cru 2010: Clear, 

light gold. Mature nose of dried fruits coupled with a 

sweet spice tone. The palate offers up more of the same 

aromatics, freighted with nuance and softness. Uncork 

for scallops or fish in a sauce. 

Price: € 38 



+33 3 26 59 40 57 


D Brut blanc de blancs Réserve : Light yellow with 

green tints. Delicate nose combining fresh grape, a 

floral touch and fresh grass. The palate beguiles with 

its fullness, texture and fine bubbles along with its 

persistent aromatics. A generous, fairly rich Blanc de 

Blancs showing delicious purity. 

Price: € 19.50 



+33 3 26 59 40 57 


D Brut blanc de noirs 1er cru : Light gold. Delicate, 

compelling nose with fruit overtones of raspberry and 

dried fruits. Fleshy, crunchy, fruit-forward attack flowing 

into a fresh, persistent and very focused mid-palate. A 

harmonious, lifted Champagne for any occasion. 

Price: € 19.50 



+33 3 26 59 40 57 

CHAMPAGNE J.A DAUTEL 90/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs La Pitance : Vibrant yellowgold. 

Very endearing nose of ripe apples and pears. 

The palate is soft, silky and ethereal and shows 

persistent freshness. A very seductive Blanc de Blancs 

with a finish that is delicately suffused with toast. 

Price: € 25 

http://champagne-lapitancerie.com 

La Pitancerie Champagne J.A Dautel 

+33 3 25 29 39 07 


D Brut La Générale 2014: Very pretty, brilliant 

yellow-gold. Expressive, compelling nose showing 

ripe red fruit notes, a pastry touch and toast. Very soft, 

fresh palate with focused aromas. This is an extremely 

consumer-friendly Champagne that works best with 

food. 

Price: € 31 



+33 3 25 29 39 07 

CHAMPAGNE MADAME RAYMONDE 90/100 

CR D Brut Espèce de Brut Tradition : Beautiful 

yellow-gold. Super ripe, expressive nose showing toast 

tones along with almond paste and marzipan accents. 

The palate is taut, very harmonious and delivers the 

same chiselled aromas. A pleasant Brut Champagne 

that is very mature. 

Price: € 28 

https://www.madame-raymonde.fr 

Champagne Madame Raymonde 

+33 6 40 53 93 68 

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT 90/100 

CONV D Brut grand cru Les 2 Cépages : Pale 

gold. Expressive and very pure nose with red berry fruit 

overtones. The attack on the palate is clean and tense 

and the mid-palate is freighted with more of the same, 

delightful aromas. This is a crisp, satisfying Champagne 

delivering great length. 

Price: € 29 

http://www.champagne-sadi-malot.com 

Champagne Sadi Malot 

+33 3 26 97 90 48 

CHAMPAGNE THIBAUD VESSELLE 90/100 

D Brut blanc de noirs : Pale yellow. Pleasant 

nose of stone fruits. The palate is vinous, dense and 

underpinned by beautiful, very creamy effervescence. 

The finish is long, saline and very pure. Great varietal 

expression. 

Price: € 21 



+33 3 26 57 00 88 

118 

SPRING 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE


ITALY - Piedmont 


CONV D Brut grand cru Les Marquises : Beautiful 

light gold. Fairly intense nose of stewed fruits with apple 

and pear overtones. The palate is fresh and fruit-driven 

with more of the same, fairly mature aromatics and 

great zippy length on the finish. 

Price: N/A 



+33 06 83 05 43 90 

CHAMPAGNE VIRGINIE T. 90/100 

D Brut Nature 2009: Glistening yellow-gold. Intense, 

expressive nose of dried fruits and dried straw. The 

palate is really intense, mouth-filling and fresh. This is a 

mature Champagne displaying its full potential. 

Price: € 48 

https://www.champagnevirginiet.com/fr/fr/ 

Champagne Virginie T. 

+33 6 86 30 75 81 


ITALIAN WINES 

The Italian version of our spring selection 

includes fresh, intense DOCG Asti and 

Moscato d’Asti wines offering a taste of 

the holidays! 

PIEDMONT 

ASTI D.O.C.G 

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT 

90/100 

■ Brut blanc de blancs - Vintage 2012 

D CONV Beautiful brilliant light gold. Mature nose 

of dried fruits and dried vegetal aromas. The palate 

is taut and offers up more of the same, very charming 

mature flavours. This is a gourmet Champagne that 

works best with food. Price: € 40 

PRESENTATION: Franck and Christine, Cindy and 

Florian embody the fourth and fifth generations of the 

family who nurture their 10 hectares of vines, divided 

between 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot noir in 

Villers-Marmery (Premier Cru) and Verzy (Grand Cru). 

Since 2004, the family has employed sustainable 

vineyard management techniques in order to protect the 

environment – tillage is used, weed killers and 

insecticides are outlawed, organic fertilisers are chosen 

and biodiversity is protected. Tillage practices now 

involve all the soils with the ultimate objective of farming 

entirely organically. In fact, the switch-over to organic 

began in Verzy in 2017 and has since last year been 

rolled out across the family’s vineyards. The estate has 

been certified HVE since 2014. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 97 90 48 

E-mail: sadi-malot@wanadoo.fr 

Website: https://www.champagne-sadi-malot.com 

CHAMPAGNE ANTOINE VESSELLE 89/100 

D Brut blanc de blancs : Pale yellow. Open nose of 

dried fruits and bread crust. The palate delivers more 

of the same mature aromatics but is driven by great 

tension. An elaborate Champagne pairing with fish or 

shellfish. 

Price: € 21 



+33 3 26 57 00 88 


D Extra brut Pulmenta Regulari : Brilliant light gold. 

Pleasant nose of crisp ripe fruits. More of the same very 

expressive, mature style on the palate with jammy fruit 

tones. A generous, satisfying Champagne that works 

best with food. 

Price: € 19.90 



+33 3 25 29 39 07 


D Brut rosé : Light orangy-pink. The nose is focused 

and expressive with red berry fruit aromas tinged with 

a citrus tone. The fruit characters flow through to the 

palate which is fresh and harmonious. A satisfying, 

accessible rosé Champagne. 

Price: € 34 



+33 6 86 30 75 81 


D Brut A: Beautiful glistening yellow-gold. Very pure, 

focused, expressive nose accented by ripe white fruits. 

The palate also delivers beautiful ripeness with a fairly 

fruity style coupled with a creamy tone and remarkable 

tension. Great personality. 

Price: € 32 



+33 6 86 30 75 81 

Prices mentioned in this book are guideline 

and can vary depending on point of sale. 

The shops, wineries or publisher can in no way be 

held responsible for this. 

CANTI 86/100 

D Vintage 2019 : Pale yellow with brilliant highlights 

and very fine bubbles. Crisp nose of fresh grape with 

menthol touches. Pleasant attack driven by fresh fruit. 

Very refreshing, satisfying palate with a very smooth 

finish. Would sit well alongside sweet desserts. 

Price: € 6.90 

http://www.fratellimartini.it 

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi 

+39 0141 83 72 11 

MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 

BOSIO 90/100 

ORG D 2018 : Pale, green-tinged yellow. Clean, 

focused nose remindiscent of fresh grapes and roses. 

Fleshy and smooth on the palate, with discreet bubbles. 

Notable for its purity, freshness and persistence. 

Price: € 9.99 

http://www.bosiovini.it 

Bosio S.r.l. 

+39 014 184 71 49 

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE 90/100 

ORG D Valdiserre 2018 : Light yellow with very fine 

bubbles. Focused, delightful nose showing suggestions 

of rose and lychee with subtle fruit in syrup notes. 

Compelling, soft palate with crunchy fruit aromas. 

Harmonious and instantly accessible in a pure style. A 

beautiful Moscato. 

Price: € 11 

http://www.isolabelladellacroce.it 

Borgo Isolabella 

+39 014 487 166 

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE 90/100 

D 2019 : Pale gold with shimmering highlights. 

Nose of fresh, juicy fruits (peach, pear, apple). Sleek, 

supple, moreish palate with seductively complicit fruit, 

freshness and easy-drinking sweetness that gives the 

tastebuds a wake-up call. Unapologetic pleasure. 

Price: € 8.50 

http://www.isolabelladellacroce.it 

Borgo Isolabella 

+39 014 487 166 


ITALY - Piedmont 

PIANCANELLI 90/100 

CR D 2018 : Very pale yellow. Delicate, highly 

distinctive nose of grapes and white flowers. Very 

fragrant, delectable palate, rich yet not excessively so. 

The fruity aromatics are compelling and lasting. A real 

treat. 

Price: € 5.50 

http://www.piancanelli.it 

Piancanelli 

+39 014 487 287 


CR D 2019 : Light silver with green tints. Appealing 

nose combining fresh grape, tangerine peel and 

floral notes. The same pure, extremely lifted aromas 

are picked up on the palate with fruit syrup. Dances 

back and forth between sweetness and freshness. A 

satisfying wine with real allure. 

Price: € 5 


Piancanelli 

+39 014 487 287 


D 2020 : Pale gold with silvery highlights. Crisp 

nose of fresh peach, pear and plum with a heady 

floral touch. Freshness is nicely forward on the palate, 

combined with crisp fruity softness. Moreish, sappy 

palate for this delicate Moscato. 

Price: € 5 


Piancanelli 

+39 014 487 287 

VINCHIO - VAGLIO SERRA 88/100 

D Valamasca 2018 : Brilliant pale yellow. Pleasant 

nose driven by fresh grape, preserved lemon and a 

lick of cinchona. Rich palate suffused with harmonious, 

ethereal, perfumed effervescence with just the right 

amount of sweetness. A delicious, distinctive Moscato 

for sharing with friends. 

Price: € 8 

http://www.vinchio.com 

Vinchio - Vaglio Serra 

+39 0141 95 09 03 

CASCINA CASTLÈT 87/100 

D 2018 : Pale golden yellow, tiny bubbles. 

Pronounced nose of fresh grapes with a whiff of 

brioche. Crisp, sweetish palate with aromatics similar 

to the nose. Nice combination of sweetness and acidity 

on the finish. Delicious with fresh fruit salad. 

Price: € 8 

http://www.cascinacastlet.com 

Cascina Castlèt 

+39 0141 96 66 51 

CANTI 86/100 

D Estate 2019 : Very light yellow with pale green 

tints and very fine bubbles. Nose of fresh grape with 

menthol notes. Crunchy fruit drives the attack, very 

smooth palate with fine tangy notes on the finish. Great 

balance. Serve with fruit-based desserts. 

Price: € 7.90 

http://www.fratellimartini.it 

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi 

+39 0141 83 72 11 

A typical landscape in the Asti region with its lush green, vine-clad hills. 

ENOITALIA SPA 86/100 

D Gemma di Luna : Pale gold. Crisp nose delivering 

fresh pear and lychee. Very refreshing, supple and softly 

fruity palate with elegant sweetness. Freshness and fruit 

drive the finish over good length. A Moscato with good 

grip that works as an aperitif or pudding wine. 

Price: € 14 

http://www.enoitalia.it 

Enoitalia - Gruppo Pizzolo 

+39 045 887 62 00 

CANTINA LA MARANZANA 85/100 

D 2018 : Light golden yellow with silvery tints. 

Beautiful nose of fresh grape and menthol notes. 

Crunchy, fruit-forward attack on the palate. Very fine 

bubbles introducing a great sensation of freshness and 

counterbalancing the residual sugar. Serve with fruit 

desserts. 

Price: € 4.40 

http://www.cantinamaranzana.it 

Cantina La Maranzana 

+39 014 177 927 

LA MARANZANA 85/100 

D Muscatè bianc 2019 : Brilliant light gold. Crisp 

nose of fresh grapes and white peaches in syrup. 

Great freshness counterbalances the sweetness on the 

palate. Fruit expression is soft, subtle and lingering. This 

is a wine for simple enjoyment, drinking well on any 

occasion. 

Price: € 4.70 

http://www.cantinamaranzana.it 

Cantina La Maranzana 

+39 014 177 927 

PIEMONTE D.O.C. 

MARENCO 86/100 

CONV D Moscato 2019 : Light yellow with green 

tints and very fine bubbles. Fresh grape with a faint 

menthol touch on the nose. Fruit-forward palate with 

fairly pronounced sweetness. Refreshing finish. Drink al 

fresco on a hot summer’s afternoon with friends. 

Price: € 9.50 

http://www.marencovini.com 

Marenco Azienda Agricola 

+39 014 436 31 33 

VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ 

ABBAZIA 91/100 

D : Light cherry-pink. Appealing nose combining 

fresh grape, red berry fruits and a floral note. Wellbalanced, 

ethereal, invigorating palate with amiable 

softness framing the flavours. Lovely precision and 

intensity in this wine for sharing. 

Price: € 3.90 

http://www.abbazia.com 

Abbazia di San Gaudenzio 

+39 1 41 84 08 08 

LA SCOLCA 89/100 

D 2009 : Pale orangy pink with gold reflections. 

Profound nose combining raspberry coulis, cherry and 

gingerbread. Airy palate suffused with generous, soft 

effervescence. The aromas are very delicate with spice 

and a noble herbal touch in this successful offering. 

Price: €N/A 

https://www.lascolca.net 

La Scolca 

+39 014 368 21 76 

120 


SOUTH AFRICA - Western Cape - Olifants River 


SOUTH AFRICAN 

WINES 

Head off the well-trodden path and 

discover the Western Cape’s most secret 

wine routes, and wines. 

WESTERN CAPE - 

CAPE SOUTH COAST 

CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM 

LOMOND BELLADONNA 94/100 

D SMV 2018 : Ruby-garnet. Black fruit and spicy 

notes on the nose. Dark and jammy on the palate with a 

grippy and voluptuous finish. Rich and full. An excellent 

wine that will age for many years. 

Price: € 9.96 

Lomond Wines 

+27 28 388 0095 

GHOST CORNER 92/100 

D The Bowline 2018 : Still youthful colour for a 2018 

wine. Green asparagus, green melon bouquet makes 

this an attractive combination. Attractive mouthfeel and 

well integrated acidity. Spicy finish, almost a slight 

toasty-oak impression. Will age well. 

Price: € 12.85 

Cederberg Wines Cellar 

+27 27 482 2827 

CAPE SOUTH COAST 

WHOLE BUNCH SYRAH 89/100 

CONV D Syrah 2019 : Deep ruby red. Blue and 

black berry fruit with notes of fynbos, tea leaves and 

touch of buchu. Great exchange of fruit tannins and oak 

tannins. Balanced and length. Will age well. 

Price: € 9 

Gabriëlskloof 

+27 82 311 7955 

ELGIN 

ELGIN VINTNERS 95/100 

D Pinot Noir 2019 : Ruby red with browning rim. 

Spice and cola-tonic nose with hints of red berry. Palate 

is medium-to-full, but delicate and integrated. This is 

Pinot Noir. Savoury on the finish with a tight and grippy 

finish. Elegant and refined. Drink now through 2030. 

Price: €17.76 

https://elginvintners.co.za 

Elgin Vintners 

+27 21 848 9587 

MOUNT BULLET 95/100 

D Merlot 2017 : Impressive pixels in colour. Red and 

black mullberries, floral notes and touch of attractive 

herbals. Sweet chocolate entry and coated tannins. 

Length and weight is just perfect. Benchmark wine. 

Price: € 27.84 

http://www.shannonwines.com 

Shannon Vineyards 

+27 21 859 2491 

LOTHIAN OF ELGIN VINEYARD SELECTION 86/100 

D Pinot Noir 2019 : Light ruby with browning rim. 

Savoury nose with a slight hint of smoke. Red berry 

fruit on the palate with toasty notes. A crisp acidity that 

adds a rhubarb note at the end. Acidity needs time to 

integrate. A-typical, but pleasant. Drink through 2025. 

Price: € 16.74 

http://www.lothianvineyards.com 

Lothian Vineyards 

+27 82 565 7869 

OVERBERG - KLEIN RIVER 

RAKA 93/100 

D Biography Shiraz 2018 : Deep ruby garnet. 

Spicy nose with black-pepper and dark berry fruit. 

Black forrest cake on the palate with a red berry finish 

and elegant spice. Fine and grainy tannins on the 

aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 8.86 

http://www.rakawine.co.za 

Raka Wines 

+27 28 3410 676 

PLETTENBERG BAY 

METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 94/100 

D Blanc de Blanc 2015 : Golden straw. Nutty, rich 

and vibrant nose with hints of lemon drops. Crisp and 

refreshing on the palate with green apple and lime. 

Fine mousse and lengthy on the finish. Refined and 

finessed. Excellent. 

Price: € 13.60 

http://www.newsteadwines.com 

Newstead Lund Family Vineyards 

+27 76 300 9740 

BITOU VINEYARDS 91/100 

D Méthod Cap Classique Sauvignon Blanc 2017 

: Attractive first impression. Green apple, pretty lees 

notes from yeast. Unexpected well integrated acidity, 

good mousse and palate weight with long finish. 

Price: € 4.59 

https://bitouvineyards.co.za 

Bitou Vineyards 

+27 82 927 6179 

KAY & MONTY SAV 90/100 

D Sauvignon Blanc 2019 : Light yellow. Tropical 

nose with hints of white pepper. Fruit-forward palate 

with canned peas and capsicum. Full and rich on the 

finish. Drink through 2025. 

Price: € 7.16 

http://www.kayandmonty.com 

Kay & Monty Vineyards 

+27 79 965 9779 

WALKER BAY 

WALKER BAY 94/100 

D Chardonnay 2017 : Golden yellow. Rich and 

ripe nose with hints of marmelade and blue orange. 

Ripe and rich on the palate with blue orange and citrus 

notes abounding. Elegant, refined on the palate with 

a rich and full finish. Delicious. Excellent wine. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 7 

Walker Bay 

+27 28 341 0013 

WALKER BAY - BOT RIVER 

HOPE MARGUERITE 95/100 

D Chenin Blanc 2019 : Light yellow. Fragrant nose 

with ripe peach and pear. Stone fruit palate with a 

savoury and sweet and sour finish. Delicate and 

perfumed. Layered. Acidity well integrated. Refined 

and complex. Wow. 

Price: € 19.43 

Beaumont Family Wines 

+27 28 284 9194 


COASTAL REGION 

BAMBOES BAY 

BAMBOES BAY 93/100 

D Pinot Noir 2018 : Very light ruby with brick-red 

rim. Subdued nose with red cherry notes. Rhubarb and 

bright red fruit on the palate with spicy notes on the 

finish. Superb. 

Price: € 15.67 

Fryer’s Cove 

+27 21 001 3150 


OLIFANTS RIVER 

PIEKENIERSKLOOF 

PIEKENIERSKLOOF 93/100 

D Chardonnay 2020 : Light yellow straw. Dried 

citrus and pear on the nose with hints of marmelade. 

Rich, full and elegant on the palate with citrus and 

tropical fruit notes. Refined acidity that adds length. 

Delicious. Drink now through 2030. 

Price: € 5 

http://www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za 

Piekenierskloof Wine Company 

+27 22 921 2233 


SPAIN - Murcia - Valencia 


SPANISH WINES 

We take a look at a lesser-known aspect 

of the Spanish wine industry through 

the lens of the Monastrell grape variety 

whose dominion covers the vineyards of 

Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and Utiel- 

Requena. 

MURCIA 

JUMILLA D.O. 

BODEGAS ALCENO 91/100 

ORG D Juma Bee 2018 : Concentrated red with 

ruby tints. Crisp nose of red and black berries, fruit 

stones and pervasive flowers. Honed power on the 

palate with ripe, polished tannins, streamlined fruit and 

a silky mouthfeel, all qualities that are bound to make 

an impression. 

Price: € 10 

http://www.alceno.com 

Bodegas Alceño 

+34 968 780 142 

BODEGAS ALCENO 90/100 

D Genio Espanol 2019 : Deep cherry-red with 

dark ruby reflections. Heady floral accents and juicy, 

jammy red fruit perfumes on the nose. The palate is 

intense with silky tannins and a great broad-ranging 

array of aromas. Subtle smokiness on the finish. Shows 

presence. 

Price: € 7.50 

http://www.alceno.com 

Bodegas Alceño 

+34 968 780 142 

BODEGAS BLEDA 90/100 

D Castillo de Jumilla Reserva 2016 : Superb 

garnet-red with mature highlights. Enticing nose of 

ripe dark fruits with pepper and graphite touches. 

Intense, generous palate that is lively and harmonious. 

Compelling through to the finish with fine tannins that 

are already well-integrated. 

Price: € 24 

http://www.bodegasbleda.com 

Bodegas Bleda, S.L. 

+34 968 780 012 

BODEGAS BLEDA 90/100 

D Pino Doncel - 12 Meses 2018 : Deep cherryred 

with dark ruby highlights. Delicate vanilla oak on 

the nose backed by red fruits and peony. Satisfying 

palate where oak influence is a bonus. Oak and fruit 

combine within an assertive tannin structure. Modern 

and charming. 

Price: € 9 



+34 968 780 012 

BODEGAS ARLOREN 89/100 

D El Tio del Carro 2017 : Garnet-red with bricking. 

Black fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant) on the nose with 

a whiff of pepper and vanilla. Powerful, ample, fruitforward 

attack with partially integrated tannins. Tense, 

mineral finish. Serve with grilled meats. 

Price: € 11 

http://www.arloren.com 

Bodegas Arloren 

+34 637 943 056 

BODEAGAS BLEDA 88/100 

D Crianza 2016 : Beautiful garnet-red with slightly 

mature highlights. The nose develops aromas of black 

fruits with oak and liquorice touches. Ample and silky 

at point of entry. A well-balanced wine displaying a 

sensation of freshness with a tightly-wound tannin 

framework 

Price: € 7 



+34 968 780 012 

YECLA D.O. 

BODEGAS LA PURISIMA 89/100 

ORG D Old Hands 2017 : Beautiful deep red. 

Heady nose of ripe stone fruits with a mineral tone. 

The palate displays savoury freshness on the attack 

and intense fruity aromas. Lovely balance, forthright 

character and a delicately spiced finish. 

Price: € 5.10 

http://www.bodegaslapurisima.com 

Bodegas La Purisima 

+34 968 751 257 

VALENCIA 

ALICANTE D.O. 

MURVIEDRO 92/100 

D Sericis - Cepas Viejas Monastrell 2016 : Dark 

garnet-red with faint bricking. Nose of jammy dark fruits 

with pepper and graphite touches. Racy, structured, 

powerful palate with pronounced forest floor notes. A 

very successful wine pairing with wild boar ragout. 

Price: € 10 

http://www.murviedro.es 

Murviedro Bodegas 

+34 962 329 003 

SERICIS 91/100 

D Cepas Viejas Monastrell 2017 : Garnet-red with 

bricking. Nose of ripe black fruits with toast notes. A 

powerfully styled wine that also displays real finesse 

thanks to its nicely harnessed tannins and elegant 

minerality on the finish. Serve with spicy Asian foods. 

Price: € 10.50 



+34 962 329 003 

CAVA D.O. 

ARTS DE LUNA 91/100 

ORG D Brut Organic : Light gold with silvery 

highlights. Nose of white fruits, yellow-fleshed fruits and 

an inviting mineral sensation. On the palate, delicate 

aromas lean towards fresh, moreish fruit, gleaming 

minerality and a mouth-watering soft finish in this great 

Cava. 

Price: € 6.50 



+34 962 329 003 

UTIEL-REQUENA D.O. 

LA CASA DE LA SEDA 92/100 

D 2019 : Ruby-red wth dark purple reflections. 

Endearing nose of ripe red fruits with violet and toast 

notes. Powerful and harmonious at point of entry. 

The bold tannin structure is partially integrated. Great 

minerality on the finish. Drink with grilled foods. 

Price: € 18 



+34 962 329 003 

LA CASA DE LA SEDA 91/100 

D 2018 : Deep cherry-red with ruby highlights. 

Nose of ripe red and black berries with subtle spice 

undertones. Satisfying palate that takes you on a 

whirlwind journey through freshness and fruit. Civilised 

tannins and an invigorating finish. Good, sound 

pleasure. Drink with red meats. 

Price: € 18 



+34 962 329 003 

SERICIS 91/100 

D Cepas Viejas Bobal 2017 : Dark garnet-red 

with faint bricking. Nose of red and black fruits with 

toast and pepper touches. Powerful attack revealing 

empyreumatic notes and powerful tannins only partly 

integrated. Great minerality on the finish. 

Price: € 10.50 



+34 962 329 003 

122 


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