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Vines at Côteaux-Vitryats CHAMPAGNE – FUTURE – NEW-WAVE WINEGROWERS with existing or freshly-minted brands Can the smaller Champagne winegrowers and industry powerhouses make comfortable bedfellows? Do the major producers and negociants leave room for anyone else? Does climate change pose a critical threat? Seven properties that have risen to these challenges provide the answers to our questions. By Alain Echalier - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - © Michel Jolyot 34 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CHAMPAGNE – FUTURE – CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS - NON-INTERVENTIONIST When you are the third generation of a family producing Champagne on the Montagne de Reims, do you even consider doing anything else? Seven hectares of vines, divided between Verzenay and Verzy, two Grand Cru villages, provide enough income to support just one family. So the agreement between Stéphane and his father was that he would take over the business, when he turned 30. In the meantime, his dream was to become a sommelier. But the training was not what it is today, and so he decided to learn the ropes differently. Ten years as a wine merchant in Alsace gave him the opportunity to taste wines from everywhere. As the land of fine dining, it also boosted his appetite for good food – the two are inseparable. He returned to his native region in 2001 and now farms 67 different vineyard plots! This extreme fragmentation, which typifies small Champagne companies, has put a curb on one of his ambitions, and that is to go organic. He is convinced that this type of wine – particularly biodynamic – has greater depth. In Verzenay, he says he was the first to take a more hands-off approach to plant protection products. And his vineyards, where he now uses grass cover, have made progress, he explains. From a flavour perspective, he wants to “go further than his father”, or does he? His father was the village’s “latestarter”, still working with barrels. But today, Stéphane also uses casks made from oak sourced on the ‘Montagne’. He has improved vineyard selections, uses massal selections and wild ferments and does not filter or fine his wines... He produces Extra Brut and Brut Nature Champagnes and as he likes to say: “I am a non-interventionist. My family has lived on this land for 5 to 6 centuries”. The wood for the barrels comes from Verzenay forest itself CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT - ALL CHANGE Florian and Cindy, aged 28 and 27 respectively, are the fifth generation to make Sadi Malot Champagne. Although they are in the process of transitioning from the previous generation, they have some very fixed ideas for the future. Franck, Florian’s father, stopped using herbicides in 2004 and ploughed every other row. Organic farming therefore seemed like the logical next step. In Villers-Marmery, where they are located, the older winegrowers don’t understand, others are considering it, but they are the only ones to have taken the plunge. They started in 2018. Cindy and Florian Malot fill a barrel SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 35
Page 1 and 2: SCHENK GROUP FROM SWITZERLAND TO TH
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTS - COLUMNS • REPORTS - 10
Page 5 and 6: EDITORIAL - PHILIPPE GAILLARD - Edi
Page 7 and 8: Cavavin N°43_Mise en page 1 30/03/
Page 9 and 10: THE GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONA
Page 11 and 12: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - Fabien Ca
Page 13 and 14: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - Vinovalie
Page 15 and 16: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - In Gailla
Page 17 and 18: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - Plaimont
Page 19 and 20: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - For nearl
Page 21 and 22: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - At the La
Page 23 and 24: SOUTH WEST - WINE ROUTE - Planted o
Page 25 and 26: RHONE VALLEY - REGION - Wine grower
Page 27 and 28: RHONE VALLEY - REGION - Luc and Ré
Page 29 and 30: RHONE VALLEY - REGION - At Domaine
Page 31 and 32: RHONE VALLEY - REGION - Jean-Luc Mo
Page 33: RHONE VALLEY - REGION - Luc and Ré
Page 37 and 38: CHAMPAGNE - FUTURE - MADAME RAYMOND
Page 39 and 40: CHAMPAGNE - FUTURE - where the Cist
Page 41 and 42: CHAMPAGNE - FUTURE - CHAMPAGNE ALAI
Page 43 and 44: BORDEAUX - GRAPES - Consultant wine
Page 45 and 46: BORDEAUX - GRAPES - The Dulon famil
Page 47 and 48: BORDEAUX - GRAPES - future of Merlo
Page 49 and 50: BORDEAUX - GRAPES - Nicolas Lassagn
Page 51 and 52: ALSACE - GRAPES - In Alsace, the wi
Page 53 and 54: ALSACE - GRAPES - The team at Huber
Page 55 and 56: ALSACE - GRAPES - Grand Cru, where
Page 57 and 58: ALSACE - GRAPES - Catherine Rentz a
Page 59 and 60: FRUIT BRANDIES - FRENCH EXPERTISE -
Page 67 and 68: SPAIN - REGION - The manager of Bod
Page 69 and 70: SPAIN - REGION - Members of the fam
Page 71 and 72: SPAIN - REGION - The Castaño famil
Page 73 and 74: SPAIN - REGION - Bodegas La Purísi
Page 75 and 76: PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY - José Ne
Page 77 and 78: PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY - The main
Page 79 and 80: PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY - just som
Page 81 and 82: PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY - The Team
Page 83 and 84: ITALY - DISCOVERY - The vineyards o
Page 85 and 86:
ITALY - DISCOVERY - characteristic
Page 87 and 88:
ITALY - DISCOVERY - are planning in
Page 89 and 90:
ITALY - DISCOVERY - MARENCO VINI Th
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ITALY - DISCOVERY - F.LII MARTINI S
Page 93 and 94:
UNITED KINGDOM - IMPORTER - Boutino
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ITALY - WINE GROWER PORTRAIT - Sche
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ITALY - WINE GROWER PORTRAIT - of i
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ITALY - WINE GROWER PORTRAIT - Bolz
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SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY - Piekenie
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SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY - ferricre
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SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY - plant vi
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SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY - Raka pro
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SOUTH AFRICA - PORTRAIT - Leeuwenku
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STARS - & WINE - Stanley Tucci: A l
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CONTACT - DETAILS - SOUTH WEST - PA
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OUR SELECTION FROM Pages 116 to 122
Page 117 and 118:
FRANCE - Champagne Pinot noir accou
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BS_CUVEES_G&G_N°43_Mise en page 1
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SOUTH AFRICA - Western Cape - Olifa
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Enter the Gilbert & Gaillard Intern
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