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SOUTH AFRICA<br />

– PORTRAIT –<br />

Willie Dreyer takes a quick coffee break during the harvest at Leeuwenkuil<br />

Head winemaker Pieter Carstens firmly believes in a<br />

natural approach to winemaking<br />

Highly regarded for the exceptional quality of his grapes,<br />

Dreyer is fully committed to sustainable growing practices,<br />

with one of his vineyards – Langvlei – certified as organic.<br />

“I’m merely a custodian of this land for my children,”<br />

says the proud father of five (Anné, Francisce, Helanzi,<br />

Jonike and Willie Jnr). “Our philosophy is a simple one:<br />

put in the hard work and let nature do the rest. Our<br />

grapes are farmed without herbicides or pesticides, and<br />

left to grow with minimal human interference, allowing<br />

natural expressions of our unique Swartland terroir<br />

to emerge.”<br />

To this day, Leeuwenkuil sells most of its fruit to other<br />

wineries, but in 2008 the Dreyers took the decision to<br />

start making and selling wine themselves. From humble<br />

beginnings, renting cellar space, their winemaking team<br />

led by Pieter Carstens steadily built up a reputation for<br />

crafting intriguing, memorable and ultimately awardwinning<br />

wines. However, their dream was always to have<br />

their own cellar at the farm, and with the 2021 harvest<br />

this has finally become a reality, their methodically<br />

thought-out new winery processing some 15,000 tons.<br />

Where many South African wine producers are facing<br />

tough times, with millions of litres of wine unsold<br />

following the government’s series of bans on local alcohol<br />

consumption during Covid-19 lockdowns, Leeuwenkuil<br />

is in a relatively strong position because most of its wine<br />

is exported. “We feel very fortunate,” says Dreyer.<br />

When asked which Leeuwenkuil wines connoisseurs<br />

should look for, Dreyer answers: “We grow many<br />

varieties, including the biggest block of Pinotage in the<br />

world (49 hectares), but for Leeuwenkuil our focus is<br />

on old-vine Chenin Blanc and Syrah, and blends based<br />

on them. These are the cultivars our region can really<br />

brag about.”<br />

Not that the Dreyers ever brag. Instead, they credit<br />

Carstens, their passionate head winemaker, and the MD<br />

of their cellar, Kobus de Kock, who sometimes has to rein<br />

Carstens in when he gets carried away with new ideas.<br />

“The balance in the team is good.”<br />

They conclude by saying: “Every glass of wine tells a story.<br />

A story of its terroir, of droughts, storms, struggles and<br />

surprises. And we can’t wait to write the next chapter.”<br />

110 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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