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ALSACE
– GRAPES –
Pierre Wach and his sommelier partner,
Jessica Ouellet, who has been working on the
estate for two years
first as artisan coopers, then as winegrowers. A staunch
advocate of quality wines, Pierre Wach uses cuttingedge
winemaking technology to maximise extraction of
flavour from the different grape varieties grown in his
8-hectare vineyard, part of which is classified as Grand
Cru. After six years of trials, Wach has introduced a
technique for extraction and maceration using intense
cold that preserves the riper and more evolved aromas
from each vintage. “Alsace Pinot noir should not compare
itself or even try to resemble its Burgundy counterpart”,
he claims. “It is a grape variety in its own right. It has
long been grown in Alsace, and as such, it has its own
personality – it is fruit-forward with very supple tannins
and an intense ruby colour”. The estate produces a range
of wines, but just a single label of Pinot noir. With its
razor-sharp design, Spleen is positioned midway between
the terroir-driven wines and the Grands Crus. “Over the
past two years, we have worked to improve the fruit
through extremely rigorous selection as soon as the vines
flower. This is producing good results”, says Wach. “Over
the next few years, I want this label to rank at the top of
the estate’s range”.
The two partners, Franck Bléger and his cousin Sébastien Huber
DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER:
UNIQUE PERSONALITY
This remarkable 30-hectare family estate, run by Sébastien
Huber and his cousin Franck Bléger, is blessed with soils
that have geological subtleties imbuing the Pinot noir
grapes with specific aromas and a unique personality.
The soils are primarily granite and instil the wines with
minerality, freshness and finesse. Since 2014, a standalone,
village-designated appellation – Saint-Hippolyte
Rouge – has recognised the specific features of the soils.
“The Pinot noir grapes flourish here, producing wines
that express all the red fruits, with no heaviness but rather
finesse and elegance”, says Bléger. “The complexity of
the wines stems from the spicy finish which mirrors the
granite”. In addition to an Alsace rosé, the estate markets
three red wines made from the same grape variety: the light
and fruity Pinot Noir; Saint-Hippolyte Rouge, which is
more concentrated with red fruit aromas and a spicy finish;
and the characterful, oak-aged Saint-Hippolyte Rouge with
oaky notes that emphasise the fruit. “The appeal of these
wines is growing”, says Huber. “They pique the curiosity
of our customers and are some of the winery’s best-selling
52 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE