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ALSACE<br />

– GRAPES –<br />

In Alsace, the wine route is an essential destination<br />

for all art, monument and wine enthusiasts. The<br />

flower-bedecked timber-framed houses offer picturepostcard<br />

settings and add a beautiful touch to villages<br />

surrounded by vineyard-clad hillsides. White wines,<br />

made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot blanc<br />

– which between them account for 60% of production<br />

– have long been the region’s pride and joy. But the<br />

appellation also produces remarkable red and rosé wines<br />

from Pinot noir, with its dark red or even black skin and<br />

white flesh. Ubiquitous in its native region of Burgundy,<br />

the variety is one of the world’s most planted wine grapes.<br />

Cropped at reasonable yields and reined in by proficient<br />

winemakers, Pinot noir is used to produce wines showing<br />

aromas of ripe red fruit, underpinned by a fairly light<br />

structure, with subtle freshness and delicate tannins.<br />

Along our Alsace red wine route, we chose some iconic<br />

examples of what Pinot noir can achieve.<br />

Thiébaud, Dominique and Julien Frey<br />

MAISON CHARLES FREY:<br />

PIONEERING ORGANIC WINE<br />

Originally from Switzerland, the Frey family moved to a<br />

1.5-hectare vineyard in Dambach-la-Ville at the beginning<br />

of the 18 th century. At that time, the vines were farmed<br />

using the family’s animals and the crop was sold directly<br />

to a wholesaler after being pressed. In 1958, Charles<br />

Frey decided to produce his own wines. In 1997, his son<br />

Dominique converted the entire estate to organic and<br />

biodynamic, making it one of the pioneers in Alsace. The<br />

next generation – his son Julien – arrived in 2003, soon<br />

joined by his brother Thiébaud, to run 20 hectares of vines<br />

where the Pinot noir grapes command respect. “We want<br />

to keep the purity and expression of a grape variety which,<br />

when farmed at moderate yields, offers extreme finesse”,<br />

explains Thiébaud Frey. “We market three different styles.<br />

Harmonie, which is more fruit-driven and accessible, is<br />

the classic range. Quintessence is distinctive because of<br />

its ageing whilst Cuvée F, from the Frankstein Grand Cru<br />

is positioned like a terroir-driven white and designed for<br />

fine foods”.<br />

DOMAINE WACH: ARTISAN WINEGROWERS<br />

Domaine Wach combines the work of a craftsman with that<br />

of a winegrower, honouring both excellence and tradition.<br />

In 1748, the Wach family entered the world of wine,<br />

The winery at Domaine Wach<br />

SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 51

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