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CHAMPAGNE
– FUTURE –
where the Cistercian monks from Molesmes Abbey came
to eat. From this, they have created a brand: La Pitancerie.
As a reminder, a ‘pitance’ is the medieval term for the food
ration required for a day. So why the decision to start up
on their own? To work the land, farm the vineyards and
make their own Champagne, but also to sell it, explains
Julien. The 40-year-old and his wife decided to take a
family gamble, one that also includes their children. The
vineyard is being renewed with new plantings, mostly
Pinot noir but also Pinot blanc. “We mustn’t make the
same mistakes that were made 30 years ago!” The weather
was equable in 2020 and very few inputs were needed.
Julien has an annual growth plan of 20%, and intends to
eventually switch to biodynamics. A former chef, he sells
through a network of contacts in the hospitality industry
and overseas, and is unable to keep up with demand for
his Extra Brut, Brut and zero dosage Champagnes. “You
don’t have to sit down to drink a glass, nor is food a
necessity!” claims Julien.
Jules and Alex Dautel: the namesake estate has also
been created for them
CHAMPAGNE VIRGINIE T -
STARTING UP AS A NEGOCIANT
Virginie and her son Ferdinand have a double Champagne
ancestry – they come from the Taittinger family (hence
the ‘T’ in their brand), and from the family that owned
Piper-Heidsieck for over a century. In 2008, the twosome
decided to take the plunge and applied for a negociant
or wholesaler’s licence. Although they own a few plots
of land in Verzy and Mailly, they mostly buy grapes from
winegrowers and make their own Champagnes.
Their winery is in Sillery, on the Montagne de Reims,
where they make 21 different blends. Mother and son
are in charge. “We have a very different palate”, explains
Ferdinand. «Mum, who worked for Taittinger for 25 years,
where Chardonnay is king, developed a taste for Pinot
noir as a reaction to this. Pinot noir is rich, powerful
and indulgent. I prefer the minerality and finesse of
Chardonnay. In 2014 we made our first Blanc de Blancs”.
The nuance is a good match for the different generations
of customers, who range in age from 40 to 70, says
Ferdinand. But they both enjoy Champagnes showing
brioche notes. All their wines are at least 6 years old so that
they develop these aromas through autolysis in the bottle.
They have around 350,000 bottles in stock. Sales started
in a growing family circle, but then they gradually reached
Virginie and Ferdinand Pougatch-Taittinger
SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 39